That guy bringing you that truck twice shows that he really has trust in you. He knows you can save that truck. The fact that you got the job done proves him right. That’s the biggest take away for me. Great work!
I just welded mine with steel from a 1940's Packard frame that has spent it's entire life in NYS winter's, my f350 is a 91, and was almost completely disintegrated. The frame from the ancient Packard truck looked nearly flawless after all those winters, on top of that had spent it's retirement as a farm trailer, then I found it in a field and drug it home. Blows my mind how fast the newer trucks just crumble, the old ones last an eternity, I'm considering replacing most all my frame with that ancient Packard steel.🤷 Thank you for the content 🙏
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I was debating on buying those Dorman frame repair sleeves for my 2005 F-150 STX. You helped me tremendously in making the decision to get them and have them welded in. If your customer gets any future fixes done on that truck, please make videos. You did a great job on this video. Keep up the good work.
I have them same lime green sleeves...still have to put them on. I'm all set as far as welding goes, I'm going to do it, right behind the sleeve going towards the tail lights l have a broken bracket like maybe for balance of bed (don't really know much about auto's of any sort) well is there a replacement or should I just make it up as, l go...thanks...✌
@@jimmygensler8715 I’m not sure if they make a replacement piece or not. Anytime they do it’s usually a big time saver over fabing up your own. Fabing up your own is always an option though. It can be as simple as several small pieces of plate put together to patch a bad area. I will definitely shoot more videos on frame repair as those projects come up.
How about everyone on here saying it's a shadetree job get your asses on here and show us how it's done...This gentleman took his time to film a segment for a temporary to intermediate fix per the customer...Go finish it if you don't like it...Thanks for the video sir and ignore the bitter jockstraps!!!
Thanks Denny! It doesn’t bother me much. It’s easy to say someone is doing it wrong, or making the wrong decision when you aren’t faced with the financial burden of a major repair job. If you don’t like it, do it whenever way you want. Doesn’t bother me one bit. Thanks for watching Denny!!
Great job 👍🏻. We did the same basic thing to 2002 Jeep Wrangler sport ,took “a month of Sunday’s” but the results were worth it 4 years later still looks structurally sound !
Excellent job so far. I think a metal fabricator can take a few more hours and patch up that weak spot that you showed us after you finished with the two long frames pieces. All in all, you made the truck a lot stronger than it was before you started on it. Good job bro.👌
Most important part didn’t get fixed the frame above the rear ended where the spring hangers are. Also it’s better to unbolt the spring hangers and plater underneath instead of sitting out around them. The thing is if you don’t bolt thru the new metal it makes the old rusty stuff even weaker because the plates frame is rigid and stiff them the thi factory frame is super week where the two meet is going to be weekest point. But you did a good job and did what the customer asked. Good job buddy
1st thing to do to fix this truck lift the body off , get a used rust free frame and st the body back down the old frame had to much rust through all over looked like Swiss cheese more than metal
I recently bought an F150 and the frame is similar. I came to UA-cam for research purposes . I found these frame rail repair kit. The truck is worth saving . So it looks like I’ll be finding out first hand . I hope all goes well…
I’d say the parts will be around $500.00 Dorman part # RNB-999-997. Luckily my father owns a garage (business) we have a lift as well as welders etc. so I’ll save as far as labor. Im not sure what a place would/should charge for something like that.
aw man! about half as bad as my 2004 colorado. I wish Dorman made the repair kits for my frame. I've been using 3/16" x 2" angle steel to bound the bottom part of the frame in the same manner as this kit. it's going well overall. that lift is cheating! it's tough weling and griding laying on your back. hats off to industrial welders who do that for a living
I religiously washed the undercarriage of my 2005, I kept it until 2019 and the frame was mint. I now have a 2016 and discovered fluid film and also lightly wash the undercarriage whenever possible during the winter.
I’m glad I found this video! My truck has a similar issue. There’s one nasty spot next to one spring hanger (farther back from the patch panels). The rest of the frame looks decent. Unfortunately my tank will need to come out. I’m just north of you in the cities. Too bad you aren’t closer. If I can’t find someone in town, I’ll hit ya up 👍🏻.
Nice work, but considering the extent of the rust on this frame, I think it should have just been scrapped. Had the repair pieces covers the only rust, fine, but there is so much more.
I don’t disagree with that. I took it as far as he wanted me to but there is no doubt it’s not as good as a new frame. It’s also a lot better than when it arrived. That 5.4 will die before the frame folds I half?? :) Thanks for watching!
@@bennieaust Yes, I agree. Tough times, crappy frames. I have a customers 06 Ford here now with problems, too me these boxed frames suck. We didn’t see as much issues when they were open. Thanks for the video, shows a good solution for some situations.
My 05 F-150 was like that to, I thought about doing this but I had the 5.4 3V, the motor went before I could fix the frame so I got rid of it for a 2020 F-150, think I’m going to send it out and have the Frame coated soon.
They definitely should have done something different! This one is bad but it wasn’t flexing when you jump on the bumper. I’ve seen much worse since then. :(
I had a 2000 Chevy Silverado with a rusty frame and it collapsed in front of the rear wheels at 296k. Ravaged it for parts that could swap onto my 2004 and sold the rest for cheap.
I have used hydraulic oil for years , I don't like the coating of anything were water can get trapped oil will find every little nook , yes you have to do it every year but it works
Thanks for vid. I think the dealer is doin this to my f150 after the turn signal cable rubbing the rusty frame rail. It was doin some crazy stuff after unhooking a trailer I towed-turn signal canceled out the cruise control? LoL. We thought it was the trailer light connector, but it wasn't apparently.
Hello, I am impressed at your work in repairing the frame on that truck. I have the same issue with my 05 f150 I have 81000 miles on my truck and I kept it well maintained. The body and interior are awesome I just didn't realize that the frame and when I saw your video and went to check my truck frame it was in the same condition. I just wanted to now what was the fee you charged on the repair and was the parts you used included in the repair. also what type of garages or auto repair shops do you think would do this kind of work. Thank you , any info would be greatly appreciated.
One thing I would do Is Def Finish that up on those Weak Spots of the frame were the wholes are for sure…But One step at a Time…But it’s for Safety and Durability and Strength…I got my Truck For my First Work Truck….want to make it as strong and reliable as I can…Get another 200,000 miles out of it …..
You should have cut some of that rust out. I know on Jeep Wrangler when you use these same repair rails, they tell you to cut the bottom half of the frame out so you don't have all that rust laying in there to start working on the new parts. I have to do this repair to my 05 F150 and my 99 Wrangler soon and I definitely plan to cut that crap out first.
Certainly not a bad idea. I didn't want to remove any remaining structure. I really soaked the inside of the frame with fluid film to help with future rusting.
Removing rust is not removing structure. It is removing rust. Adds significantly to the price but also improves longevity, if the customer is planning to keep the truck. I personally do not offer frame repair with rust removal but, I recommend ding another shop for that
I am not sure this would pass NYS inspection. It still is compromised by the suspension attachment point. Maybe with some more work. May be ready for the junkyard here :lol:
Those slipons are a waste of money. They cost $500 and a sheet of 1/8" plate costs $160. I prefer to make my own plates. But you did a great job and it looks great
Thanks! If you are ok with the extra time and then you can definitely save some money making g your own. Personally I feel like they are expensive, but worth the money because of the time savings.
I have a 2004 Ford F150 FX4 and the chassis is rotted and cracked all over the place my mechanic told me. I live on Long Island so my truck won’t pass inspection for state of New york. not really sure what to do here. mechanic told me maybe look for a welder to fix it, not really sure what that entails. Any information on how I could proceed to fix this issue is greatly appreciated. thank you.
What was the approximate labor time and cost for this? I hear of ALOT of these F150 trucks having this issue. Is it bad engineering or what? Don't they use preservation coatings from the factory during production. Makes no sense as to why the frames rot so easily while mostly everything else looks decent.
Every shop will be different and every truck will be slightly different. This guy spent about $1500 parts and labor on this job. It’s not as good as a new frame, but much better than when it arrived. I think it is an engineering mistake. This should not be happening to so many of these. They should have been able to engineer it for better longevity.
Oh And Mine I Thought and was told Was the worst they’ve ever Seen…This one is Def Worse than mine but not by Much and the end result When you finish Was Amzing looked Factory Almost….I have to Pressure wash and Clean the whole Undercarriage Up and Grind and seal…Then I’m gonna put mine on with Cold Weld And Adhesive Then Wrap it with Special Wrap to Cure…Dont know how to Weld Yet…Can do Later On….And Your weren’t So Bad Lol…Not for looks Down there anyway…This is For Strength But Your finished Product Very Impressive..!!!!
No! Anybody that tells you this is a good long term solution is lying to you. Don’t listen to them! This is a bandaid fix to an otherwise good truck that will not be doing any major work like towing or hauling heavy loads.
Hey Lesley, You can either disconnect the negative battery cable, or use a device like this: www.amazon.com/Dent-Fix-DF-601-Surge-Protector/dp/B002XMS0KU/ref=asc_df_B002XMS0KU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309750549985&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6979250700272117712&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019869&hvtargid=pla-760191242152&psc=1
I have a Ford F150 that is worse than the one in the video. There should be a class action suit regarding the frame. I wonder if the metal can be analyzed to tell why it failed?
IMHO it’s a design flaw. The fully boxed frame traps dirt and moisture inside and, like any steel, it will just rust away. If they had done something to prevent the rust better it may have helped, but they didn’t do enough. Other trucks also have a boxed frame and don’t have this issue. Although Toyota also has this issue.
Hey What’s Up Bennie…I’m Otto..From Brooklyn ,N.Y. Proud owner of a Rusty …2004 F150 STX 4x4 4.6 V8 with with only 100,000 original miles….But it hast way more Rust than I thought but Fixable as you Just Displayed in a Very Descriptive Clear and Doable way….Great Job…And Great Kit…I’m ordering them Right Now….Theres A lot of these Trucks in The Rust Belt Very Bad from the Salt and Chemicals…But Most can be saved…There’s A lot of Money to be saved and Made Here$$$….A Business in itself On an Open Market Much in Demand o a Budget…I’m gonna Try Myself yo tap in to it as Well …I’m a Chef by trade But Love Cars, Trucks And Motorcycles that need Help and takin to the next Level…It’s good to know there is Someone else Like you out there…There are a handful…Hopefully we can all learn from One another…Inspirational And I’m not Blowin Smoke…Lol….God bless and Keep the Vids Coming…Thank you Brother!!! VERY HELPFUL!!!!!🙏😎👊
Thanks for the kind words! It's a fairly big job but thanks to the Dorman parts it mostly takes time and not fancy tools. Of course, a lift makes it a lot easier. Best of luck with your project!
typically how much is a job like this if you don't mind me asking I'm looking at a truck perfect condition literally no rust anywear or wear looking anywhere but frame
i wouldve liked to see the original frame rust treated, at least a rust stopping paint, but overall that's a solid repair, didn't even know they made sleeves like this
The goal is that the Fluid Film will help prevent further corrosion on the existing and new metal. I don’t believe that’s entirely possible though. These sleeve Dorman makes really makes it a much easier job. Anything beyond this and you should definitely consider frame replacement IMHO. Thanks for watching!
@@slimsqde7397 I’m not surprised, these trucks are notorious for it. :( I’ve got links in the description for the Dorman parts and the other supplies I used.
@@bennieaust yea ive seen that since looking into it. luckily this truck is only rusted on the driver side frame rail and everything else is basically rust free. also i found the links, much apreciated!
Hello I just purvhased these from your link for my Ford truck. I went to an alignment shop for a estimate to do what you did. They quoted about $2000 for the labor. Is that a fair price ? Thanks
$2000 seems like a fair price. A lot of people are having a hard time finding a shop that will install them. If you found a shop that will do it for $2000 I’d jump on it!
That rubberized undercoating, just gonna make it worse. If you wanna coat it with something that won't continue to rust underneath it, and don't want it to wash off, like lanolin, use black cosmoline rp342.
Do you know how this held up? It must’ve snapped eventually? They say vertical welds weakens the structural integrity the most bc of how it weakens the metal at its most demanding angle. What size rod did you use?
I have fairly low expectations for this truck, but not nearly as low as yours. Lol, it has not snapped, it’s doing fine. I used a MIG welder with .035” wire.
@@KollynJwhen people asking about making the repair I recommend to them that if they don’t plan on hauling heavy load and towing heavy trailers they will be fine. If it’s basically a people hauler then your truck is a good candidate. I’m maybe being a bit conservative, but I don’t want anyone taking any chances.
I love your video, it really helped understand what wron with my 08 Ford 150 Lariat rusted froame rails exactly like what you did to fix thatguys truck. I just am having a lot of problems finding someone around Seattle that can do what you do. Any suggestions? Thanks Robert from Bothell Wa
Hey Robert, glad it was helpful!! Unfortunately I hear from a lot of people that are in the same situation. It's hard to find shops that will make this kind of repair. I think part of it is because it's somewhat of a bandaid fix. Although it's much better than when it arrived, it's still not as good as replacing the frame, and the rust will get the best of it eventually. The people this repair is good for are those who do not haul heavy loads, or tow big trailers and pretty much just use the trucks as people haulers. It's a good way to get several more years out of a truck that should otherwise go to the salvage yard, for a cost that's reasonable, in comparison to frame replacement.
How much does it cost for this job? What do you recommend to use to remove the corrosion rust (crimped cup, twist wire cup, twist wire wheel, etc.)? How many do I need to remove the rust on the 2000 Toyota Tundra frame (so I can order the right quantity online)? I know it depends on many factors, just give me a rough estimate? Thanks.
I had about 18 hours in to this one. Plus the relatively low cost of the Dorman parts and the Fluid Film and undercoating. Cost really depends on the local shop you choose. I've sure it varies greatly. I used a flap disc (one was all I needed) to clean off the areas I needed to weld on. A hammer is actually my choice to knock all the big stuff off that's no longer doing anything. The way I approached this job was not to remove all rust and try to seal, but rather soak it with fluid film to stop it from spreading. I don't think it would be possible to truly remove all rust and get it sealed and permanently stopped.
By using that rubberized undercoating, you’ve just trapped any future rust, causing it to spread more rapidly than it would have if you’d have left it uncoated.
It can vary greatly depending on exactly how bad the truck is, and what shop you take it to. The best thing to do is just contact local shops and see if they can give you a quote.
I mean bro.. you did a great job, high quality craftsmanship and all but.. that frame is just gone. Caps are not gonna do it, that frame needs to be replaced..
There were still other questionable areas on the frame so I would be leery of lifting with a 2 post lift on this truck. I would be less worried about towing, but wouldn't try to tow anywhere near max capacity. Every truck would have to be evaluated individually on these things. The Dorman parts worked great and it's much better than when it came over but nowhere near as good as it was when new.
@@briizcustoms9543 every truck has to be individually evaluated. In the extremely bad cases, this repair is the difference between sending the truck to the junk yard, or being able to continue to use it as transportation. On the better cases, when it saved before it’s to bad, the truck can absolutely be used as the truck it’s supposed to be.
I live in in Minnesota and I got a Toyota sequioa 2003 with some rust. There are few areas that concern me. Could I send you a pictures of the areas and could you please Quote me a price? Thank you
It’s always a tough call. One of the big variables is what’s out there for used vehicles. If you come across a good deal on something else than it can sway you decision. Rust is a losing battle. Even after a repair like this there is still more rust on other parts of the frame. It buys it a few more years but the rust will win in the end anyways. :(
Bennie - one thing I learned is that undercoating is pure shit. Go back and further the repair and deal with the nightmare of scraping that off. You are miles ahead of the game just getting some paint on it, then any future work will be tolerable, maybe.
Just wanted to ask the what it cost this guy? I thought about doing this to my 2006 fx4 w- 282k on it. I found a guy near me that said he would weld it for$600. I thought, cool let's do it. But I had to remove the bed. After breaking 2 torx bits and pikes of trust on the ground from hammering the books, noticing for rust and mount rust, I decided it's not worth it. I've had the truck from 30k miles and the interior was still very nice. I just decided it's not worth the time or money. But great video any way!
Is cost around $1,500. When you get in to repairs like this, they are all different so I'm somewhat hesitant to post that. But that is about where this one ended up at.
Trying to find a local person in Iowa to do this exact repair to my 2008 Super Crew long bed. Seems the long bed (65') repair kits seem to not common. SB kit the same?
Sweet. New corrosion troughs. Is this really that much of a common problem on this model design that Dorman makes such a product? That's crazy and also that's scary af.
I think the fact that Dorman makes the parts is all you need to know. I've seen MANY rusted out frames but this one is the worst and also the only one I've repaired. They do have drain holes in the bottom.
What a disgrace that the OEM did just a crappy engineering job on this truck frame in the first place. I will never buy another American made vehicle. I have a Saturn Vue that I have in my garage that I have to repair the rusted frame on. I had to surgically remove all this rusted out part of the frame and fabricate members that I will be welding back in place of the OE crap design. I am a designer by profession and fully understand welding and weld myself so I know that I will succeed.
Thank you for showing this..I have the same problem with my for 2008. f150...so I have a few questions..the model numbers that you are showing..is that for a 2005 through 2008..or are there different model numbers for a 2008?...also..can this be spot welded?..when you go to dorman website, its very confusing.
I believe it’s exactly the same through 2008. It would be best to verify that on rockauto or Amazon before ordering though. I would not recommend spot welding it. I would recommend welding it all the way around like I did. There will definitely be areas that are in worse shape than others and if you weld it solid the good areas will offset the bad… hopefully.
what about the inside of the frame?? It is going to fillip with salt water and continue to destroy the frame... It could be treated by hammer and removal of debris, then soaking in phosphoric acid, flushed with water, dried, then a treatment of fluid film or 60 weight oil thinned with diesel sprayed inside heavily.
Most of that was covered in the video. There wasn’t anything trapped in there since the bottom was rotted away. There are drain holes so the frame won’t hold water. I did use a few cans of fluid film inside the frame once the repair was complete. Definitely not the end of the rust but definitely game the truck a second chance. Hopefully the frame outlasts the next major problem whatever that may be. Thanks for watching!
It is maddening that the manufacturers put such little thought into simple things that end up setting the stage for premature failures like this rusted out frame. This frame should have had drainage holes to prevent water from collecting inside. They don't care and count on the vehicle not lasting so you have to replace it. Well guess what? I got burned like this with my Saturn Vue and am through buying American vehicles. Under my Saturn I found two frame members that were severely rusted out due to water collecting inside and laying in there. I live in the Northeast and they use salt on the roads in winter which kills the underside of vehicles. The rusted members each had a square access hole in the side to allow a nut to be installed for bolting the undercarriage to the frame. If Saturn just added a rubber plug to prevent water from entering that frame member, this problem would have never happened.
I totally agree. And especially on something big like a frame. :( My personal opinion is that Toyota products are pretty top notch but they have a few fails throughout the years too. Even including frame rot just like on these fords. There’s no perfect answer.
I haven’t witnessed the same issues on the GMT800. I have repaired rear shock mounts and the rear crossmember they mount on. Lots and lots of rotted out brake lines on those things though. Did I say lots?
Only Tacking? At that point I'd just put in a little more time and fully weld it. We don't have inspections here, so I don't know. Way more likely to pass after the repair then before!
That's a Bandaid solution...you have to cut the Rot out completely to New Metal...and treat the remaining Rusty metal properly...Rust converter to STOP further rusting....Weld in new metal where the Frame rusted...adding inner support braces to strengthen it back up ...treat and clean up all inside areas you can....weld in the outer pieces to rebuild the frame... paint it up...and drill some cleanout holes in bottom of your new frame ( make those holes strong ) so you can get rid of crud/dirt and salt later..as that is what rotted out your frame.. yeah if you don't repair every area your wasting time and it can continue to rust..and can fail Inspection depending where u live...Remove the cab and bed and it's alot easier to do the whole frame... if severly rotted your cab and bed might be holding it from folding up or down 😂😂
You are absolutely correct, this is a band-aid fix. If it was any worse than this, I wouldn't have touched it and would have recommended replacing the frame. I do think this was the right choice for this particular truck. It's too nice to junk but not worth enough to replace the frame. Kind of the sweet spot of terrible. lol
@@bennieaust replacing the frame isn't the Only option or even an option depending where you live...lol...i could fix it for a few hundred dollars... maybe more with steel prices so high..lol..but still a better job than that slip on cover...you can't leave rusted rot in or it is rusting more in a year.. paying someone to patch it is insane...i understand your reason but the fact is it is a short term cure which won't be worth doing....how much did this Cost the guy - the Dorman parts and Labour / Material??
@@bennieaust What guage of steel is that " Cover " ...which is supposed to go on after you remove the rot and weld in new steel ...then this " cover " goes on to add strength.... regardless of them telling you to cover the rusted area anyone doing this KNOWS the proper procedure in a frame repair...a Real repair doesn't need this " cover " as it would be stronger than factory and would last decades not a few years... frames aren't hard to rebuild... it is just steel...the frame didn't have proper drain points is Why it rots out..factory defect easily fixed...anyways...your not the owner..i know your just a mechanic?? lol...i built custom signs for decades and bigger structures than that frame is....a few days of removing parts/cab/bed and the frame is bare..you can fix every bad spot...and reassemble it back in a couple days... one week for decades of ownership....i was a mechanic too and for 50 + years for my own vehicles ( 2 - 18+ wheels )... take care..not blaming you...
@@garymallard4699 , The Dorman parts are very similar thickness to the frame. The owner brought me the truck and the parts and wanted this job done. I can assure you that as soon as you start taking the bed and cab off to make repairs (Which I have done, so I understand it's not a big deal) it already overshoots the target budget and goal. The objective was to try and find the correct balance on this repair. It obviously isn't the route you'd have taken. If you are offering to repair these for a "few hundred dollars" I can assure you, you will not run out of work. I just posted a video a couple weeks ago of a worse one that I parted out. '04-'08 are rough. There are plenty around to be fixed. Thanks for the comments and for watching Gary!
@@bennieaust I had 2 Business's and my " offer " was Not a Estimate or Quote...i was referring to doing MY OWN WORK on MY OWN VEHICLE.... as someone who did Work for Customers and made profit on those Jobs ( many much larger and Time consuming than this small job )...I would charge according to my time done and yes it would ne more than a couple hundred dollars or more than that amount...I was talking about the fact this is a band aid solution for amateurs to do... it is like a slip on rocker panel..cosmetic not structurally sound...whether welded or glued on...( there is adhesive designed for automotive repairs and i have used stronger ones too in my career )... my " couple hundred " quote is material costs alone...not my shop time or labour fees....i said that as a owner doing this repair to my own truck..in my own shop and based on experience...as a Mechanic ( who removed and replaced Cabs and engines/trans and beds and everything required to get proper access to a frame that needs rebuilding and Structural Integrity returned to keep it Safely Operating again )... if you don't remove the Cab and Bed your doing a poor repair... And if you don't understand how to repair metal properly ( including welding it at an Pro level ) your not going to do this repair safely either.... cutting out all rot is easy...welding it back to a Factory level is Simple....it isn't a Job for a Mechanic to attempt... It will fail at the Dorman skin and the rotted hole you left...if i was doing " Only " that work you did...i would not have left that part unrepaired...i would have put new steel in that area so my repair doesn't fail...for FREE...( i mean the extra material and time to fill that part you showed in video...) it would take 30 minutes and $30 ( maximum ) but at least i know it won't fail at my repair ... i also would have taken one hour to quickly remove all rot and add steel to add strength to the frame under the " Cover " ... it would guarantee my work will last longer than the surrounding frame does ( past my work scope )... AGAIN..I am not trashing your work...you filmed it..you uploaded it...you showed what you did and Did not do... this isn't my point to argue ...i stated it is a Band aid solution to what should be done to fix this vehicle...not as a Business owner..but as an Owner would want to preserve his vehicle ...yeah it takes time to remove parts..and I do it as it SAVES TIME doing the actual repair...sadly this owner has to deal with these problems...i'm fortunate enough to have the Experience..Skills..Tools and Shop ( with Lift ) to tackle this properly.... i had many decades of doing this work and Building Handmade Custom Fabrications....from New to Old Rebuilds.... seeing it done this way ( i watched 2 other repairs using the Dorman Cover before yours ) and poorly prepping the frame .... and just covering up Rusted metal ..is Sad... AGAIN..Not my point to BLAME YOU...i had to deal with customers that only care it is done Quick and Cheap...Quality costs more..but pays back in the End...ok guess your not gonna say what you charged to do the work..lol Have a Great Weekend Canada Day here 4th of July if your American??
how much would something like this cost? I have a smaller hole and a bit of a line near the gas tank in my 2010 chevy. also i noticed the two holes, how long do you think a truck could last with that strickly the frame? 1 year? 3? 5? 10?
Not everyone has the cash to just crush their current truck and go buy another, or to put a new frame under it. That’s why people are fixing these. Definitely not as good as a new frame or new truck. Definitely better than just continuing to drive it.
That owner in about a year: "and you can see it's been boxed and reinforced onto the mint chassis, but I know is am not going to be able to get any money for that plus"
I would check with a body shop, but I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of them wouldn't want to get in to a repair like this. Best of luck with your search!
@@aguilayserpiente there are a lot of products available but one of my favorites is Fluid Film. If you apply a product like that on a regular basis that will greatly help.
What is a fair price to have someone do this needing it done on my 2006 f150. Mine looks almost identical to the truck in this video. Wish ford would have put more holes in the bottom so they didn’t hold so much moisture!
I get asked this question a lot and it’s very hard to answer because every truck is different. I never can be certain until I start working on one how bad it actually is. The rust issues can be significant worse than it initially appears. In fact it pretty much always is worse than it appears. It can take many extra hours to address addition issues. This particular truck the owner spent about $1500 on the repair IIRC.
If you have a ford truck and frames are still available for it from ford then you might as well order one and get it in ur storage shed cuz your gona need it some day 😂
thats a good repair but where the "new frame" meets the new there is a real weak spot there im sure one could beef it up a bit its worth it as its a pretty nice truck otherwise
I totally agree. The Dorman parts are a great starting point, and in many cases will probably be all you need. In some cases, like this truck, adding more plate in the remaining weak spots would be needed.
That guy bringing you that truck twice shows that he really has trust in you. He knows you can save that truck. The fact that you got the job done proves him right. That’s the biggest take away for me. Great work!
Thanks Dan! And thanks for watching!
Those work
Mine is bad near the rear front leafspring shackles
Where are you located?
How much did you charge?
I just welded mine with steel from a 1940's Packard frame that has spent it's entire life in NYS winter's, my f350 is a 91, and was almost completely disintegrated. The frame from the ancient Packard truck looked nearly flawless after all those winters, on top of that had spent it's retirement as a farm trailer, then I found it in a field and drug it home. Blows my mind how fast the newer trucks just crumble, the old ones last an eternity, I'm considering replacing most all my frame with that ancient Packard steel.🤷
Thank you for the content 🙏
That’s crazy!
Thanks for watching and your welcome!
I wonder if the bed can fly off while driving?
Because mine is broken and still driving it
That was better pre radioactive steel
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I was debating on buying those Dorman frame repair sleeves for my 2005 F-150 STX. You helped me tremendously in making the decision to get them and have them welded in. If your customer gets any future fixes done on that truck, please make videos. You did a great job on this video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! I appreciate the kind words!
Do more on the videos on frame repair, do to rust in other areas...
I have them same lime green sleeves...still have to put them on.
I'm all set as far as welding goes, I'm going to do it, right behind the sleeve going towards the tail lights l have a broken bracket like maybe for balance of bed (don't really know much about auto's of any sort) well is there a replacement or should I just make it up as, l go...thanks...✌
@@jimmygensler8715 I’m not sure if they make a replacement piece or not. Anytime they do it’s usually a big time saver over fabing up your own. Fabing up your own is always an option though. It can be as simple as several small pieces of plate put together to patch a bad area.
I will definitely shoot more videos on frame repair as those projects come up.
Yeah I agree. Thanks , I'm dealing with the same thing at the moment not nearly as bad rust though. Just a little on the driver's side mid section.
Great job and video sir.
I'm n the same boat with a 2008 f150.
It's a money pit but she's all I have.
Respect from Burlington Ontario Canada
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hope you win the battle and keep the 2008 on the road for many more miles!!
How about everyone on here saying it's a shadetree job get your asses on here and show us how it's done...This gentleman took his time to film a segment for a temporary to intermediate fix per the customer...Go finish it if you don't like it...Thanks for the video sir and ignore the bitter jockstraps!!!
Thanks Denny! It doesn’t bother me much. It’s easy to say someone is doing it wrong, or making the wrong decision when you aren’t faced with the financial burden of a major repair job.
If you don’t like it, do it whenever way you want. Doesn’t bother me one bit.
Thanks for watching Denny!!
Great job 👍🏻. We did the same basic thing to 2002 Jeep Wrangler sport ,took “a month of Sunday’s” but the results were worth it 4 years later still looks structurally sound !
Thanks! I haven't repaired a wrangler but they are pretty common for frame rust as well. Glad to here your's is holding up well!
Excellent job so far. I think a metal fabricator can take a few more hours and patch up that weak spot that you showed us after you finished with the two long frames pieces. All in all, you made the truck a lot stronger than it was before you started on it. Good job bro.👌
Thanks Dex!
Most important part didn’t get fixed the frame above the rear ended where the spring hangers are. Also it’s better to unbolt the spring hangers and plater underneath instead of sitting out around them. The thing is if you don’t bolt thru the new metal it makes the old rusty stuff even weaker because the plates frame is rigid and stiff them the thi factory frame is super week where the two meet is going to be weekest point. But you did a good job and did what the customer asked. Good job buddy
Thanks Cereus and thanks for the advice!
Looks 100 percent to me,amazing patience working with rot.
It’s much better than when it arrived. Definitely not as good as a new frame, but a big improvement.
Thanks for watching!
1st thing to do to fix this truck lift the body off , get a used rust free frame and st the body back down
the old frame had to much rust through all over looked like Swiss cheese more than metal
I recently bought an F150 and the frame is similar. I came to UA-cam for research purposes . I found these frame rail repair kit. The truck is worth saving . So it looks like I’ll be finding out first hand . I hope all goes well…
Best of luck with the repair!
Any ideas on the total cost ?
I’d say the parts will be around $500.00 Dorman part # RNB-999-997. Luckily my father owns a garage (business) we have a lift as well as welders etc. so I’ll save as far as labor. Im not sure what a place would/should charge for something like that.
I *wouldn't* move the exhaust. At this point it's what's holding the truck together.
aw man! about half as bad as my 2004 colorado. I wish Dorman made the repair kits for my frame. I've been using 3/16" x 2" angle steel to bound the bottom part of the frame in the same manner as this kit. it's going well overall. that lift is cheating! it's tough weling and griding laying on your back. hats off to industrial welders who do that for a living
The lift is cheating :) keep up the good work. The Dorman parts make it much easier but good for you for roughing it out and getting it done anyways!!
Wonder how much longer the frame would have lasted if the previous owners oil sprayed. Losing battle with rust?
I’m sure it would have held up much longer, but you’re correct, it’s a loosing battle with rust. :(
I religiously washed the undercarriage of my 2005, I kept it until 2019 and the frame was mint. I now have a 2016 and discovered fluid film and also lightly wash the undercarriage whenever possible during the winter.
That’s great to hear. It means there’s hope!!
the rubber undercoating locks moisture in and rusts the vehicle faster
Looks like a decent repair job considering the severity of the situation. Too bad customer did not want the remaining holes repaired.
Yeah, it’s a tough call to make. Hopefully it’s the right call for him.
This convinced me to check my 03 frame. All good (and in Michigan) whew😅. I’m going to power wash and undercoat THIS weekend 😂
Dodged a bullet!
I’m glad I found this video! My truck has a similar issue. There’s one nasty spot next to one spring hanger (farther back from the patch panels). The rest of the frame looks decent. Unfortunately my tank will need to come out.
I’m just north of you in the cities. Too bad you aren’t closer. If I can’t find someone in town, I’ll hit ya up 👍🏻.
Sounds good Mike! Best of luck with the project!
Nice work, but considering the extent of the rust on this frame, I think it should have just been scrapped. Had the repair pieces covers the only rust, fine, but there is so much more.
I don’t disagree with that. I took it as far as he wanted me to but there is no doubt it’s not as good as a new frame. It’s also a lot better than when it arrived. That 5.4 will die before the frame folds I half?? :)
Thanks for watching!
@@bennieaust Yes, I agree. Tough times, crappy frames. I have a customers 06 Ford here now with problems, too me these boxed frames suck. We didn’t see as much issues when they were open. Thanks for the video, shows a good solution for some situations.
I need to find this man because that looks clean as heck
Thanks Matty!
My 05 F-150 was like that to, I thought about doing this but I had the 5.4 3V, the motor went before I could fix the frame so I got rid of it for a 2020 F-150, think I’m going to send it out and have the Frame coated soon.
Hopefully the new ones won’t have this issue but that’s a great plan to help avoid it.
They should offer a powder coat frame option from the factory.Im amazed that truck didn’t break in half
They definitely should have done something different! This one is bad but it wasn’t flexing when you jump on the bumper. I’ve seen much worse since then. :(
I would have kept going on the other rust outs. You were so close to having it all done.
Very true. At the end of the day the customer is my boss.
I'd would say what you did was a great job.
@@jaxj3626 thanks !
I had a 2000 Chevy Silverado with a rusty frame and it collapsed in front of the rear wheels at 296k. Ravaged it for parts that could swap onto my 2004 and sold the rest for cheap.
I've had to make a few repairs on the older chevy's as well. The salt they use on the roads really kills these things. :(
I've got a 04 ford f150 like that I'm lucky my frame is perfect but I keep it washed good and painted. You did a awesome job buddy
Thanks! Glad you have a good one. Sounds like you are the reason you have a good one!!
I've got an 04 in great shape except for cam phasers making noises but the frame is in great shape.
@@Anthony-kn8cn if the frame doesn’t get you those cam phasers will!
Glad to hear you have a solid frame!!
@@bennieaust yes sir that and the roller followers are what definitely goes wrong with the 04 to 08 model's
I have used hydraulic oil for years , I don't like the coating of anything were water can get trapped oil will find every little nook , yes you have to do it every year but it works
So the customer fix the big shit . But don't want to go the extra mile to fix the rest image that seen that many times in my life.....!
Glad I’m not the only one who gets that!
Thanks for vid. I think the dealer is doin this to my f150 after the turn signal cable rubbing the rusty frame rail. It was doin some crazy stuff after unhooking a trailer I towed-turn signal canceled out the cruise control? LoL. We thought it was the trailer light connector, but it wasn't apparently.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hello, I am impressed at your work in repairing the frame on that truck. I have the same issue with my 05 f150 I have 81000 miles on my truck and I kept it well maintained. The body and interior are awesome I just didn't realize that the frame and when I saw your video and went to check my truck frame it was in the same condition. I just wanted to now what was the fee you charged on the repair and was the parts you used included in the repair. also what type of garages or auto repair shops do you think would do this kind of work. Thank you , any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'll send you an email.
Great job! I would definitely cover those holes at the end of the rails otherwise it sort of defeats the purpose.
I think no matter how it’s done it extends the life of the truck but not forever. It will still be an issue at some point. :(
One thing I would do Is Def Finish that up on those Weak Spots of the frame were the wholes are for sure…But One step at a Time…But it’s for Safety and Durability and Strength…I got my Truck For my First Work Truck….want to make it as strong and reliable as I can…Get another 200,000 miles out of it …..
I've done this repair, but I didn't use frame caps, I replaced the rear half of frame.
That would be be a job but a very solid repair! Well done!!
You should have cut some of that rust out. I know on Jeep Wrangler when you use these same repair rails, they tell you to cut the bottom half of the frame out so you don't have all that rust laying in there to start working on the new parts. I have to do this repair to my 05 F150 and my 99 Wrangler soon and I definitely plan to cut that crap out first.
Certainly not a bad idea. I didn't want to remove any remaining structure. I really soaked the inside of the frame with fluid film to help with future rusting.
Removing rust is not removing structure. It is removing rust. Adds significantly to the price but also improves longevity, if the customer is planning to keep the truck. I personally do not offer frame repair with rust removal but, I recommend ding another shop for that
I am not sure this would pass NYS inspection. It still is compromised by the suspension attachment point. Maybe with some more work. May be ready for the junkyard here :lol:
No doubt, this thing was BAD and still needs for work out in to it.
totally agree with you.
Those slipons are a waste of money. They cost $500 and a sheet of 1/8" plate costs $160. I prefer to make my own plates.
But you did a great job and it looks great
Thanks!
If you are ok with the extra time and then you can definitely save some money making g your own.
Personally I feel like they are expensive, but worth the money because of the time savings.
I have a 2004 Ford F150 FX4 and the chassis is rotted and cracked all over the place my mechanic told me. I live on Long Island so my truck won’t pass inspection for state of New york. not really sure what to do here. mechanic told me maybe look for a welder to fix it, not really sure what that entails. Any information on how I could proceed to fix this issue is greatly appreciated. thank you.
Sorry to hear you’ve got this issue too. :(
That’s good advice to find a local welder and see if they can repair it for you.
What was the approximate labor time and cost for this? I hear of ALOT of these F150 trucks having this issue. Is it bad engineering or what? Don't they use preservation coatings from the factory during production. Makes no sense as to why the frames rot so easily while mostly everything else looks decent.
Every shop will be different and every truck will be slightly different. This guy spent about $1500 parts and labor on this job. It’s not as good as a new frame, but much better than when it arrived.
I think it is an engineering mistake. This should not be happening to so many of these. They should have been able to engineer it for better longevity.
Oh And Mine I Thought and was told Was the worst they’ve ever Seen…This one is Def Worse than mine but not by Much and the end result When you finish Was Amzing looked Factory Almost….I have to Pressure wash and Clean the whole Undercarriage Up and Grind and seal…Then I’m gonna put mine on with Cold Weld And Adhesive Then Wrap it with Special Wrap to Cure…Dont know how to Weld Yet…Can do Later On….And Your weren’t So Bad Lol…Not for looks Down there anyway…This is For Strength But Your finished Product Very Impressive..!!!!
Can you explain how this is a good long term solution when it doesnt fix the rest of the rusted chassis?
No! Anybody that tells you this is a good long term solution is lying to you. Don’t listen to them!
This is a bandaid fix to an otherwise good truck that will not be doing any major work like towing or hauling heavy loads.
What do you unhook before welding the frame. Battery ground, will welding affect the ECM or is there a ground to disconnect?
Hey Lesley,
You can either disconnect the negative battery cable, or use a device like this:
www.amazon.com/Dent-Fix-DF-601-Surge-Protector/dp/B002XMS0KU/ref=asc_df_B002XMS0KU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309750549985&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6979250700272117712&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019869&hvtargid=pla-760191242152&psc=1
I have a Ford F150 that is worse than the one in the video. There should be a class action suit regarding the frame. I wonder if the metal can be analyzed to tell why it failed?
IMHO it’s a design flaw. The fully boxed frame traps dirt and moisture inside and, like any steel, it will just rust away. If they had done something to prevent the rust better it may have helped, but they didn’t do enough. Other trucks also have a boxed frame and don’t have this issue. Although Toyota also has this issue.
There is no more million miles vehicles with a pickup today but for some reason they want a million dollars for this piece of s*** we got to buy
Hey What’s Up Bennie…I’m Otto..From Brooklyn ,N.Y. Proud owner of a Rusty …2004 F150 STX 4x4 4.6 V8 with with only 100,000 original miles….But it hast way more Rust than I thought but Fixable as you Just Displayed in a Very Descriptive Clear and Doable way….Great Job…And Great Kit…I’m ordering them Right Now….Theres A lot of these Trucks in The Rust Belt Very Bad from the Salt and Chemicals…But Most can be saved…There’s A lot of Money to be saved and Made Here$$$….A Business in itself On an Open Market Much in Demand o a Budget…I’m gonna Try Myself yo tap in to it as Well …I’m a Chef by trade But Love Cars, Trucks And Motorcycles that need Help and takin to the next Level…It’s good to know there is Someone else Like you out there…There are a handful…Hopefully we can all learn from One another…Inspirational And I’m not Blowin Smoke…Lol….God bless and Keep the Vids Coming…Thank you Brother!!! VERY HELPFUL!!!!!🙏😎👊
Thanks for the kind words! It's a fairly big job but thanks to the Dorman parts it mostly takes time and not fancy tools. Of course, a lift makes it a lot easier.
Best of luck with your project!
Hello Robert do you know a place in NYC or close who can fix my rusted F 150 frame thanks
@@ces4r123456789 Place in deer park long island ,just had my tacoma done and my buddy got his 4 runner done also.
typically how much is a job like this if you don't mind me asking I'm looking at a truck perfect condition literally no rust anywear or wear looking anywhere but frame
If it needs this repair run!!! Do not buy it.
i wouldve liked to see the original frame rust treated, at least a rust stopping paint, but overall that's a solid repair, didn't even know they made sleeves like this
The goal is that the Fluid Film will help prevent further corrosion on the existing and new metal. I don’t believe that’s entirely possible though.
These sleeve Dorman makes really makes it a much easier job. Anything beyond this and you should definitely consider frame replacement IMHO.
Thanks for watching!
@@bennieaust oh ok i didnt know that, hopefully itll last the rest of the trucks life and yw keep up the great content
@@bennieaust ironic i left this comment because I am actually doing this same repair on the same truck haha. didn't even know it at the time
@@slimsqde7397 I’m not surprised, these trucks are notorious for it. :(
I’ve got links in the description for the Dorman parts and the other supplies I used.
@@bennieaust yea ive seen that since looking into it. luckily this truck is only rusted on the driver side frame rail and everything else is basically rust free.
also i found the links, much apreciated!
Hello
I just purvhased these from your link for my Ford truck. I went to an alignment shop for a estimate to do what you did. They quoted about $2000 for the labor. Is that a fair price ?
Thanks
$2000 seems like a fair price. A lot of people are having a hard time finding a shop that will install them. If you found a shop that will do it for $2000 I’d jump on it!
That rubberized undercoating, just gonna make it worse. If you wanna coat it with something that won't continue to rust underneath it, and don't want it to wash off, like lanolin, use black cosmoline rp342.
Thanks for the tip!
Do you know how this held up? It must’ve snapped eventually? They say vertical welds weakens the structural integrity the most bc of how it weakens the metal at its most demanding angle. What size rod did you use?
I have fairly low expectations for this truck, but not nearly as low as yours. Lol, it has not snapped, it’s doing fine.
I used a MIG welder with .035” wire.
@@bennieaust haha just wondering if I can still use it for a tow vehicle under
@@KollynJwhen people asking about making the repair I recommend to them that if they don’t plan on hauling heavy load and towing heavy trailers they will be fine. If it’s basically a people hauler then your truck is a good candidate. I’m maybe being a bit conservative, but I don’t want anyone taking any chances.
I love your video, it really helped understand what wron with my 08 Ford 150 Lariat rusted froame rails exactly like what you did to fix thatguys truck. I just am having a lot of problems finding someone around Seattle that can do what you do. Any suggestions? Thanks Robert from Bothell Wa
Hey Robert, glad it was helpful!!
Unfortunately I hear from a lot of people that are in the same situation. It's hard to find shops that will make this kind of repair. I think part of it is because it's somewhat of a bandaid fix. Although it's much better than when it arrived, it's still not as good as replacing the frame, and the rust will get the best of it eventually. The people this repair is good for are those who do not haul heavy loads, or tow big trailers and pretty much just use the trucks as people haulers. It's a good way to get several more years out of a truck that should otherwise go to the salvage yard, for a cost that's reasonable, in comparison to frame replacement.
How much does it cost for this job? What do you recommend to use to remove the corrosion rust (crimped cup, twist wire cup, twist wire wheel, etc.)? How many do I need to remove the rust on the 2000 Toyota Tundra frame (so I can order the right quantity online)? I know it depends on many factors, just give me a rough estimate? Thanks.
I had about 18 hours in to this one. Plus the relatively low cost of the Dorman parts and the Fluid Film and undercoating. Cost really depends on the local shop you choose. I've sure it varies greatly.
I used a flap disc (one was all I needed) to clean off the areas I needed to weld on. A hammer is actually my choice to knock all the big stuff off that's no longer doing anything. The way I approached this job was not to remove all rust and try to seal, but rather soak it with fluid film to stop it from spreading. I don't think it would be possible to truly remove all rust and get it sealed and permanently stopped.
Do you know if they make rail replacements for the crew cab 6.5ft bed? I'm having a hard time finding them. Thank you!
I’m not sure about what different applications they make these for. Might be best to contact Dorman to get the best answer.
Thank you@@bennieaust
By using that rubberized undercoating, you’ve just trapped any future rust, causing it to spread more rapidly than it would have if you’d have left it uncoated.
Thanks for the advice Louis
How much time does this install take? Would like to get an idea of the costs to install the Dorman frame repair sleeves. Thanks.
It can vary greatly depending on exactly how bad the truck is, and what shop you take it to. The best thing to do is just contact local shops and see if they can give you a quote.
I mean bro.. you did a great job, high quality craftsmanship and all but.. that frame is just gone. Caps are not gonna do it, that frame needs to be replaced..
Yup, a new frame would certainly be stronger.
whould you put that on a post lift now? or even use it to tow with after that repair?
There were still other questionable areas on the frame so I would be leery of lifting with a 2 post lift on this truck. I would be less worried about towing, but wouldn't try to tow anywhere near max capacity. Every truck would have to be evaluated individually on these things.
The Dorman parts worked great and it's much better than when it came over but nowhere near as good as it was when new.
@@bennieaust what’s the purpose of these repairs if you can not use the truck ?
@@briizcustoms9543 every truck has to be individually evaluated. In the extremely bad cases, this repair is the difference between sending the truck to the junk yard, or being able to continue to use it as transportation. On the better cases, when it saved before it’s to bad, the truck can absolutely be used as the truck it’s supposed to be.
I live in in Minnesota and I got a Toyota sequioa 2003 with some rust. There are few areas that concern me. Could I send you a pictures of the areas and could you please Quote me a price? Thank you
Hey man how much did this roughly cost your customer? Getting many various quotes from shops for same issue same truck same year
Roughly $1500.
I have a 2002 Suburban 2500. Frame looks like that one but everything else is in great shape. Debating whether it's worth fixing like this.
It’s always a tough call. One of the big variables is what’s out there for used vehicles. If you come across a good deal on something else than it can sway you decision.
Rust is a losing battle. Even after a repair like this there is still more rust on other parts of the frame. It buys it a few more years but the rust will win in the end anyways. :(
Bennie - one thing I learned is that undercoating is pure shit. Go back and further the repair and deal with the nightmare of scraping that off. You are miles ahead of the game just getting some paint on it, then any future work will be tolerable, maybe.
Thanks for the advice!
0:57 .....haven't had my jaw drop like that since My wife said "TWINS!
I don’t know anything about twins, but this frame is ridiculously!! :)
Should see one where the frame broke with from rust SO much worse.
I’ve got a link in the description to another one I worked on that was much worse. :(
Just wanted to ask the what it cost this guy? I thought about doing this to my 2006 fx4 w- 282k on it. I found a guy near me that said he would weld it for$600. I thought, cool let's do it. But I had to remove the bed. After breaking 2 torx bits and pikes of trust on the ground from hammering the books, noticing for rust and mount rust, I decided it's not worth it. I've had the truck from 30k miles and the interior was still very nice. I just decided it's not worth the time or money. But great video any way!
Is cost around $1,500. When you get in to repairs like this, they are all different so I'm somewhat hesitant to post that. But that is about where this one ended up at.
Trying to find a local person in Iowa to do this exact repair to my 2008 Super Crew long bed. Seems the long bed (65') repair kits seem to not common. SB kit the same?
I'm not sure if they are the same or not. You may want to contact Dorman with fitment questions. I'd imagine they could answer any questions you have.
How much does a job like this cost in total on the same type of truck? With parts cost and labor…
Every one is unique, but this one was right around $1500.
Sweet. New corrosion troughs. Is this really that much of a common problem on this model design that Dorman makes such a product? That's crazy and also that's scary af.
I think the fact that Dorman makes the parts is all you need to know. I've seen MANY rusted out frames but this one is the worst and also the only one I've repaired. They do have drain holes in the bottom.
Rusted ford boxed frame very well known problem.
What a disgrace that the OEM did just a crappy engineering job on this truck frame in the first place. I will never buy another American made vehicle. I have a Saturn Vue that I have in my garage that I have to repair the rusted frame on. I had to surgically remove all this rusted out part of the frame and fabricate members that I will be welding back in place of the OE crap design. I am a designer by profession and fully understand welding and weld myself so I know that I will succeed.
How long did this repair take you. ?
It takes a few days with dry time of the products I used and everything.
Thank you for showing this..I have the same problem with my for 2008. f150...so I have a few questions..the model numbers that you are showing..is that for a 2005 through 2008..or are there different model numbers for a 2008?...also..can this be spot welded?..when you go to dorman website, its very confusing.
I believe it’s exactly the same through 2008. It would be best to verify that on rockauto or Amazon before ordering though.
I would not recommend spot welding it. I would recommend welding it all the way around like I did. There will definitely be areas that are in worse shape than others and if you weld it solid the good areas will offset the bad… hopefully.
04-08 F 150's use the same frame.
what about the inside of the frame?? It is going to fillip with salt water and continue to destroy the frame... It could be treated by hammer and removal of debris, then soaking in phosphoric acid, flushed with water, dried, then a treatment of fluid film or 60 weight oil thinned with diesel sprayed inside heavily.
Most of that was covered in the video. There wasn’t anything trapped in there since the bottom was rotted away. There are drain holes so the frame won’t hold water. I did use a few cans of fluid film inside the frame once the repair was complete.
Definitely not the end of the rust but definitely game the truck a second chance. Hopefully the frame outlasts the next major problem whatever that may be.
Thanks for watching!
I've got a large hole broken in my 2005 f150 frame near the leaf spring mount. These caps don't seem to go back that far
That’s also a common spot. Unfortunately these caps don’t address that spot. You’ll have to fab up some pieces of plating for your issue.
@bennieaust I've got some 1/8 plate steel I'll make work
@@Kartracer95that should work great.
Great job thanks a bunch!
I'd like to know what you charged him for the work. It looks great!
Thanks!!
I think he was in it about $1500 parts and labor.
It is maddening that the manufacturers put such little thought into simple things that end up setting the stage for premature failures like this rusted out frame. This frame should have had drainage holes to prevent water from collecting inside. They don't care and count on the vehicle not lasting so you have to replace it. Well guess what? I got burned like this with my Saturn Vue and am through buying American vehicles. Under my Saturn I found two frame members that were severely rusted out due to water collecting inside and laying in there. I live in the Northeast and they use salt on the roads in winter which kills the underside of vehicles. The rusted members each had a square access hole in the side to allow a nut to be installed for bolting the undercarriage to the frame. If Saturn just added a rubber plug to prevent water from entering that frame member, this problem would have never happened.
I totally agree. And especially on something big like a frame. :(
My personal opinion is that Toyota products are pretty top notch but they have a few fails throughout the years too. Even including frame rot just like on these fords. There’s no perfect answer.
How much do you charge for that job? Mine is similar
This customer paid around $1500.
Hope my GMT800 frame doesn't look like this when I drop the tank. Ever done a 99-06 GM frame repair?
I haven’t witnessed the same issues on the GMT800. I have repaired rear shock mounts and the rear crossmember they mount on. Lots and lots of rotted out brake lines on those things though. Did I say lots?
do you think tacking it all around would be good? and can it pass inspection?
Only Tacking? At that point I'd just put in a little more time and fully weld it. We don't have inspections here, so I don't know. Way more likely to pass after the repair then before!
@@bennieaust thanks for the reply. Yeah true, do you think I will have enough mig feed with 2lbs for just one side? I
got 0.8mm
@@ashleybernard1055 it will be close!
That's a Bandaid solution...you have to cut the Rot out completely to New Metal...and treat the remaining Rusty metal properly...Rust converter to STOP further rusting....Weld in new metal where the Frame rusted...adding inner support braces to strengthen it back up ...treat and clean up all inside areas you can....weld in the outer pieces to rebuild the frame... paint it up...and drill some cleanout holes in bottom of your new frame ( make those holes strong ) so you can get rid of crud/dirt and salt later..as that is what rotted out your frame.. yeah if you don't repair every area your wasting time and it can continue to rust..and can fail Inspection depending where u live...Remove the cab and bed and it's alot easier to do the whole frame... if severly rotted your cab and bed might be holding it from folding up or down 😂😂
You are absolutely correct, this is a band-aid fix. If it was any worse than this, I wouldn't have touched it and would have recommended replacing the frame. I do think this was the right choice for this particular truck. It's too nice to junk but not worth enough to replace the frame. Kind of the sweet spot of terrible. lol
@@bennieaust
replacing the frame isn't the Only option or even an option depending where you live...lol...i could fix it for a few hundred dollars... maybe more with steel prices so high..lol..but still a better job than that slip on cover...you can't leave rusted rot in or it is rusting more in a year..
paying someone to patch it is insane...i understand your reason but the fact is it is a short term cure which won't be worth doing....how much did this Cost the guy - the Dorman parts and Labour / Material??
@@bennieaust
What guage of steel is that " Cover " ...which is supposed to go on after you remove the rot and weld in new steel ...then this " cover " goes on to add strength.... regardless of them telling you to cover the rusted area anyone doing this KNOWS the proper procedure in a frame repair...a Real repair doesn't need this " cover " as it would be stronger than factory and would last decades not a few years... frames aren't hard to rebuild... it is just steel...the frame didn't have proper drain points is Why it rots out..factory defect easily fixed...anyways...your not the owner..i know your just a mechanic?? lol...i built custom signs for decades and bigger structures than that frame is....a few days of removing parts/cab/bed and the frame is bare..you can fix every bad spot...and reassemble it back in a couple days... one week for decades of ownership....i was a mechanic too and for 50 + years for my own vehicles ( 2 - 18+ wheels )... take care..not blaming you...
@@garymallard4699 , The Dorman parts are very similar thickness to the frame. The owner brought me the truck and the parts and wanted this job done. I can assure you that as soon as you start taking the bed and cab off to make repairs (Which I have done, so I understand it's not a big deal) it already overshoots the target budget and goal. The objective was to try and find the correct balance on this repair. It obviously isn't the route you'd have taken.
If you are offering to repair these for a "few hundred dollars" I can assure you, you will not run out of work. I just posted a video a couple weeks ago of a worse one that I parted out. '04-'08 are rough. There are plenty around to be fixed.
Thanks for the comments and for watching Gary!
@@bennieaust
I had 2 Business's and my " offer " was Not a Estimate or Quote...i was referring to doing MY OWN WORK on MY OWN VEHICLE.... as someone who did Work for Customers and made profit on those Jobs ( many much larger and Time consuming than this small job )...I would charge according to my time done and yes it would ne more than a couple hundred dollars or more than that amount...I was talking about the fact this is a band aid solution for amateurs to do... it is like a slip on rocker panel..cosmetic not structurally sound...whether welded or glued on...( there is adhesive designed for automotive repairs and i have used stronger ones too in my career )... my " couple hundred " quote is material costs alone...not my shop time or labour fees....i said that as a owner doing this repair to my own truck..in my own shop and based on experience...as a Mechanic ( who removed and replaced Cabs and engines/trans and beds and everything required to get proper access to a frame that needs rebuilding and Structural Integrity returned to keep it Safely Operating again )... if you don't remove the Cab and Bed your doing a poor repair... And if you don't understand how to repair metal properly ( including welding it at an Pro level ) your not going to do this repair safely either.... cutting out all rot is easy...welding it back to a Factory level is Simple....it isn't a Job for a Mechanic to attempt...
It will fail at the Dorman skin and the rotted hole you left...if i was doing " Only " that work you did...i would not have left that part unrepaired...i would have put new steel in that area so my repair doesn't fail...for FREE...( i mean the extra material and time to fill that part you showed in video...) it would take 30 minutes and $30 ( maximum ) but at least i know it won't fail at my repair ... i also would have taken one hour to quickly remove all rot and add steel to add strength to the frame under the " Cover " ... it would guarantee my work will last longer than the surrounding frame does ( past my work scope )...
AGAIN..I am not trashing your work...you filmed it..you uploaded it...you showed what you did and Did not do... this isn't my point to argue ...i stated it is a Band aid solution to what should be done to fix this vehicle...not as a Business owner..but as an Owner would want to preserve his vehicle ...yeah it takes time to remove parts..and I do it as it SAVES TIME doing the actual repair...sadly this owner has to deal with these problems...i'm fortunate enough to have the Experience..Skills..Tools and Shop ( with Lift ) to tackle this properly.... i had many decades of doing this work and Building Handmade Custom Fabrications....from New to Old Rebuilds.... seeing it done this way ( i watched 2 other repairs using the Dorman Cover before yours ) and poorly prepping the frame .... and just covering up Rusted metal ..is Sad... AGAIN..Not my point to BLAME YOU...i had to deal with customers that only care it is done Quick and Cheap...Quality costs more..but pays back in the End...ok guess your not gonna say what you charged to do the work..lol
Have a Great Weekend
Canada Day here
4th of July if your American??
Bennie and the JETS!!! du du dun Not gonna search comments, BEAUTIFUL job bud Sweet a++ lift. But the all important ? How much did U charge for Dat...
😁 about $1500
Thanks for watching Shawn!
Why would u not cut out rust prior to installing theses it's going to keep rotting away underneath
Because there would be no frame left. You are absolutely right though, This is not as good as frame replacement.
What does that complete job run price wise? Curious on if its worth it for me to have the same procedure done.
Around $1500 but each one is unique and price can vary greatly depending on how bad it is.
how much would something like this cost? I have a smaller hole and a bit of a line near the gas tank in my 2010 chevy. also i noticed the two holes, how long do you think a truck could last with that strickly the frame? 1 year? 3? 5? 10?
This customer paid around $1500 for the repair. They are all a little different.
thanks so much for the quick response appriciate it. @@bennieaust
That thing should go to the crusher! I’m surprised he didn’t try to get a new frame.
Not everyone has the cash to just crush their current truck and go buy another, or to put a new frame under it. That’s why people are fixing these. Definitely not as good as a new frame or new truck. Definitely better than just continuing to drive it.
How many hours did this taie total. My guess minimum 10 hours of work x 150/hr looks like $1500 plus parts. 2k job
That about right. Every one is a little different but that’s an accurate estimate.
I have 04 f 150 how much do you think it would coast for it
It can vary greatly shop to shop and region to region. You really have to check around locally.
Hey guys I have a question.... how much would a job like that cost 🤷🏽♂️
IIRC this customer paid about $1500.
That owner in about a year: "and you can see it's been boxed and reinforced onto the mint chassis, but I know is am not going to be able to get any money for that plus"
Lol, very true! Definitely worth more than a truck that’s folded in half though. :)
Thanks for watching!
Do you have the part #s for a 2005 f150 crew cab 4x4? Or do you just cut down those ? TIA.
The only parts numbers I have are the ones in the description that were for this particular truck.
I subscribed because your nice enough to Reply...take care..and i'll watch more video's from you as i can....
What kind of shop would you recommend for this kind of work? I am having trouble finding a shop to do it
I would check with a body shop, but I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of them wouldn't want to get in to a repair like this. Best of luck with your search!
The corrosive elements frighteningly quickly ate the chassis on a newer truck. Frightening.
Yes, it is a bit frightening. Especially since you might not notice it if you never look under the truck or know what to look for.
@@bennieaust How does one prevent that corrosion, possibly caused by road salt?
@@aguilayserpiente there are a lot of products available but one of my favorites is Fluid Film. If you apply a product like that on a regular basis that will greatly help.
Where are you located I'm in Ypsilanti Michigan nice work
Thanks! I'm in Belle Plaine, MN.
Wow! How the hell can that “repair” make that vehicle roadworthy?
What is a fair price to have someone do this needing it done on my 2006 f150. Mine looks almost identical to the truck in this video. Wish ford would have put more holes in the bottom so they didn’t hold so much moisture!
I get asked this question a lot and it’s very hard to answer because every truck is different. I never can be certain until I start working on one how bad it actually is. The rust issues can be significant worse than it initially appears. In fact it pretty much always is worse than it appears. It can take many extra hours to address addition issues. This particular truck the owner spent about $1500 on the repair IIRC.
@@bennieaust appreciate the response thank you!!
@@adamkinnear5320 you’re welcome!
That frame was shot. He should have put a whole frame on. Structurally unsound at this point.
If you have a ford truck and frames are still available for it from ford then you might as well order one and get it in ur storage shed cuz your gona need it some day 😂
What size welding rod
I used a MIG welder. .035 solid core wire.
thats a good repair
but where the "new frame" meets the new there is a real weak spot there im sure one could beef it up a bit its worth it as its a pretty nice truck otherwise
I totally agree. The Dorman parts are a great starting point, and in many cases will probably be all you need. In some cases, like this truck, adding more plate in the remaining weak spots would be needed.
I need this done to my truck
Sorry to hear that. :(
Looks good to me. Great video
Thanks Ed!
Would it work to drill holes and bolt it onto the frame?
It would help a little, but I think it would be a far second to welding it.