Nice job guys. Lived in Jersey all my life and can't believe how the salt destroys a truck so fast. Going to pull the bed off by 1996 F150 and start a similar project. My buddy is a mechanic in Arizona and I can't believe how nice the underside of cars look out there.
Just a bit of surface rust... lol. Im off to spray a quart of Surface Shield into my drivers side frame rail so I dont accidentally set my nuts on fire in the future.
Also if welding spray frame and patch a few days B4 welding it with weld through primer. We did this back 20 years ago on a 49 chevy truck that's driven yr round and it still looks gr8 and no rust. Also had to cut frame behind cab on 80 gmc truck and boxed frame and it's still looks a lil faded but gr8. By sealing metal with Ospho, Phosphoric acid etc, then any number of layers paint, bedliner, etc then a wax and oil coating it can't rust cause it's sealed off. Don't ever use a hard drying undercoating. If it's not done perfectly, even a humid day will start rust growing and it'll look gr8, but it's just a nice oven 2 bake rust and make it spread. Seen this alot cause ppl naturally assume and think, Undercoating is the way 2 go. I've poked them with a pointed tool and it's just chunks of rust. Again ANYTHING u do is better than nothing. I want to save my autos cause newer autos have piss poor value after u leave dealer, while under warranty it's ok but what about when it's not? And even so after I pay 40k-120k for car, new truck or a Grand cherokee, after paying that much and still having 2 take or tow urr auto that costs as much as a home used to, is not why u pay that full coverage insurance, car note, etc just to have fixed for free now, not later. Alot have issues like never b4. Used Jeep 2.4 is $1200 used, trans half that. No thank ub. I'll keep my wheels rust free and going, paid off and reliable.
@@Jvcomet No problem. I do this daily for decades now. Too many ppl spewing BS just wanting u to buy this or that. And it's ok. If u want go ahead. Do you. But there's a easier, cheaper way of keeping what u love to drive going for a long time and rust free. I've had to fail more autos for rust damage than any other criteria in inspections. And a lot of the mechanical issues was caused in same part by this issue.
This my Pa type salt zip code friends is why if u r any way serious about keeping urr automobile for longer than a few years, it would be a great idea to either you or have somebody Knock that heavy rust off, spray down with 99%alcohol to clean all wax, grease, oils, then spray phosphoric acid to kill all rust, ironically, mix .5 quart of each Used oil, used trans fluid, tube of grease and a no plastic wax only toilet flange gasket, bees wax, etc in a old pot and heat and mix to a med gravy consistency and apply to all areas of under, inner, etc panels, frame of said automobile. If u really wanna keep it long, after u derust and spray with acid, paint with a few coats of mastercraft aluminium/zinc 2 part coating designed in NJ by a man who was finding a coating that lasted at least 2 decades for bridges, etc. Stuff is amazing. Then use this mix of wax and petroleum products. Or u can use Mineral oil which is in alot of store bought coatings. Only thing is mine costs $10 maybe if using new oils, fluids etc. U can't expect whatever is on urr auto to protect it. It wont. Toyota did a fine job in 90s, 00s with this. They had a thick layer of Zinc after 7 other layers so If it did ever get through the zinc would be sacrificed b4 metal. Do SOMETHING. Mix 2 mineral oils and 2 wax gaskets and do that. And don't worry bout mother earth, with wax, grease it won't drip off. It will find its way where it needs to go but won't leave a disaster area. If u live in North east, anywhere near salted raids in winter, u must do something. And after u get a quote from any known Krown, Ziebart, etc and they say $600 for starting package deal u will c that if u buy a gun for $50 and make urr own, u will b 500 plus $$ richer.
Greetings from Scranton, Pennsylvania. Theres a youtuber on here who tests all the different undercoatings, and encapsulators (Repair Geek) ; his tests showed Muriatic Acid worked much better than Phosphoric Acid, and was the best rust treatment (of course all acids need to be neutralized with baking soda water, and dried immediately after to prevent flash rusting). He also discovered that PBlaster Rust Shield was the best undercoating that lasted the longest. However I found another youtuber's channel (JustDiesels) whose chassis were in showroom condition on his pickup truck (seen in his video "How To Clean Your Undercarriage and Save It From Rust!"). His secret was he thoroughly cleaned under his truck really good every 4 months and after drying he sprayed Adam's Undercoating spray over everything which is clear keeping the truck looking clean. He then coated everything with WD-40 afterwards and said that kept the salt from destroying his vehicles up here in the North. I then found another video ("How To Wash Your Jeep or Truck 4x4 and Make It Look Brand New!" on a channel "AutoEdits" right after where a guy said he uses Lucas Oil Tool Box Buddy spray, and that he used to use WD-40 but now prefers Tool Box Buddy. I see everyone using Rust Shield but I hate how dirty it looks and would require pressure washing to be removed when doing the quarterly/bi-annual frame degreasing. After watching Repair Geek's video on the different coatings and seeing the consistency and color of the three big names, I am certain they use bees wax in their recipe. So now im going with Muriatic Acid, mastercraft aluminum zinc shell, then Adam's undercoating spray to help protect the zinc coating and then a light Tool Buddy misting over everything afterwards. I wonder how if powder coating is the way to go though instead of the Mastercraft zinc paint.
Great job! I’m in the middle of cutting and cleaning out a frame for my 2008 GMC Canyon. I see your NJ and you have Atco videos. Where you get your 1/8” steel, Fazzios? What Primer and paint did you use? Thanks!
Fazzio’s or Dutra Sheet Metal if your close to Vinelamd ask for Danny tell him I sent you and A&D auto body supplies in Vinelamd for all the primers and paint. Ask for Andrea tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching
nice work! what is your view of the frame repair "sleeves" like the one from Dorman. One repair shop is recommending your method and another is recommending the sleeve. thanks!!
When you buy a new or used ford truck at that time go ahead and buy a brand new frame for it and keep it in your garage cuz your gona need it in the future.
I’m in NJ as well I have a 04 f150 and it’s cracked at the rear shock mount on the driver side. My rear bumper mounts is also rotting. Would you guys be willing to repair mine ?
Idk why they make box frames like this knowing this is a major problem. My friends chevy truck did this but worse. Take some cheap transmission fluid and squirt the inside frame down it will creep its way up the wall of the frame.
It’s hit and miss a lot depends on where the vehicle is used and what part of the country. We’ve seen all makes and models have issues. So you need to check each one individually before you get one. Thanks for watching 👍
That guy is a good welder👍
Nice job guys. Lived in Jersey all my life and can't believe how the salt destroys a truck so fast. Going to pull the bed off by 1996 F150 and start a similar project. My buddy is a mechanic in Arizona and I can't believe how nice the underside of cars look out there.
Yea no salt and very dry. Cars last forever out there. Paint may fade off but that’s it. Thanks for watching 👍👍
I loved it no extra talk just right to it done Thanks and God Bless.
Appreciate it thanks for watching
I'm surprised you didn't use any primer on the inside when you said it rusted from the inside.
Nice job.
Nice warts and all video
Inspirational
😀
Just a bit of surface rust... lol. Im off to spray a quart of Surface Shield into my drivers side frame rail so I dont accidentally set my nuts on fire in the future.
Yes just a bit lol. Thanks for watching
Also if welding spray frame and patch a few days B4 welding it with weld through primer. We did this back 20 years ago on a 49 chevy truck that's driven yr round and it still looks gr8 and no rust. Also had to cut frame behind cab on 80 gmc truck and boxed frame and it's still looks a lil faded but gr8.
By sealing metal with Ospho, Phosphoric acid etc, then any number of layers paint, bedliner, etc then a wax and oil coating it can't rust cause it's sealed off. Don't ever use a hard drying undercoating. If it's not done perfectly, even a humid day will start rust growing and it'll look gr8, but it's just a nice oven 2 bake rust and make it spread. Seen this alot cause ppl naturally assume and think, Undercoating is the way 2 go. I've poked them with a pointed tool and it's just chunks of rust. Again ANYTHING u do is better than nothing. I want to save my autos cause newer autos have piss poor value after u leave dealer, while under warranty it's ok but what about when it's not? And even so after I pay 40k-120k for car, new truck or a Grand cherokee, after paying that much and still having 2 take or tow urr auto that costs as much as a home used to, is not why u pay that full coverage insurance, car note, etc just to have fixed for free now, not later. Alot have issues like never b4. Used Jeep 2.4 is $1200 used, trans half that. No thank ub. I'll keep my wheels rust free and going, paid off and reliable.
Thanks for sharing your info 👍
@@Jvcomet No problem. I do this daily for decades now. Too many ppl spewing BS just wanting u to buy this or that. And it's ok. If u want go ahead. Do you. But there's a easier, cheaper way of keeping what u love to drive going for a long time and rust free. I've had to fail more autos for rust damage than any other criteria in inspections. And a lot of the mechanical issues was caused in same part by this issue.
Nice work!
Thanks for watching
This my Pa type salt zip code friends is why if u r any way serious about keeping urr automobile for longer than a few years, it would be a great idea to either you or have somebody Knock that heavy rust off, spray down with 99%alcohol to clean all wax, grease, oils, then spray phosphoric acid to kill all rust, ironically, mix .5 quart of each Used oil, used trans fluid, tube of grease and a no plastic wax only toilet flange gasket, bees wax, etc in a old pot and heat and mix to a med gravy consistency and apply to all areas of under, inner, etc panels, frame of said automobile. If u really wanna keep it long, after u derust and spray with acid, paint with a few coats of mastercraft aluminium/zinc 2 part coating designed in NJ by a man who was finding a coating that lasted at least 2 decades for bridges, etc. Stuff is amazing. Then use this mix of wax and petroleum products. Or u can use Mineral oil which is in alot of store bought coatings. Only thing is mine costs $10 maybe if using new oils, fluids etc. U can't expect whatever is on urr auto to protect it. It wont. Toyota did a fine job in 90s, 00s with this. They had a thick layer of Zinc after 7 other layers so If it did ever get through the zinc would be sacrificed b4 metal. Do SOMETHING. Mix 2 mineral oils and 2 wax gaskets and do that. And don't worry bout mother earth, with wax, grease it won't drip off. It will find its way where it needs to go but won't leave a disaster area. If u live in North east, anywhere near salted raids in winter, u must do something. And after u get a quote from any known Krown, Ziebart, etc and they say $600 for starting package deal u will c that if u buy a gun for $50 and make urr own, u will b 500 plus $$ richer.
Greetings from Scranton, Pennsylvania. Theres a youtuber on here who tests all the different undercoatings, and encapsulators (Repair Geek) ; his tests showed Muriatic Acid worked much better than Phosphoric Acid, and was the best rust treatment (of course all acids need to be neutralized with baking soda water, and dried immediately after to prevent flash rusting). He also discovered that PBlaster Rust Shield was the best undercoating that lasted the longest. However I found another youtuber's channel (JustDiesels) whose chassis were in showroom condition on his pickup truck (seen in his video "How To Clean Your Undercarriage and Save It From Rust!"). His secret was he thoroughly cleaned under his truck really good every 4 months and after drying he sprayed Adam's Undercoating spray over everything which is clear keeping the truck looking clean. He then coated everything with WD-40 afterwards and said that kept the salt from destroying his vehicles up here in the North. I then found another video ("How To Wash Your Jeep or Truck 4x4 and Make It Look Brand New!" on a channel "AutoEdits" right after where a guy said he uses Lucas Oil Tool Box Buddy spray, and that he used to use WD-40 but now prefers Tool Box Buddy. I see everyone using Rust Shield but I hate how dirty it looks and would require pressure washing to be removed when doing the quarterly/bi-annual frame degreasing.
After watching Repair Geek's video on the different coatings and seeing the consistency and color of the three big names, I am certain they use bees wax in their recipe.
So now im going with Muriatic Acid, mastercraft aluminum zinc shell, then Adam's undercoating spray to help protect the zinc coating and then a light Tool Buddy misting over everything afterwards. I wonder how if powder coating is the way to go though instead of the Mastercraft zinc paint.
Thanks for the comment thanks for sharing your knowledge great idea thank you
I need a OG like that 💯
great job!
Appreciate it thanks for watching 👍
😮 great 👍 👌 job boyz!!!
Thanks 👍
Great job! I’m in the middle of cutting and cleaning out a frame for my 2008 GMC Canyon.
I see your NJ and you have Atco videos.
Where you get your 1/8” steel, Fazzios?
What
Primer and paint did you use?
Thanks!
Fazzio’s or Dutra Sheet Metal if your close to Vinelamd ask for Danny tell him I sent you and A&D auto body supplies in Vinelamd for all the primers and paint. Ask for Andrea tell him I sent you. Thanks for watching
@@Jvcomet Thank you!!
nice work! what is your view of the frame repair "sleeves" like the one from Dorman. One repair shop is recommending your method and another is recommending the sleeve. thanks!!
I actually didn’t know about the sleeves. So couldn’t tell you.
17:24 get your hot nuts here !! peanuts...
popcorn !!!
Lol !😂
When you buy a new or used ford truck at that time go ahead and buy a brand new frame for it and keep it in your garage cuz your gona need it in the future.
Lol if we only knew 👍
I’m in NJ as well I have a 04 f150 and it’s cracked at the rear shock mount on the driver side. My rear bumper mounts is also rotting. Would you guys be willing to repair mine ?
Yep give me a call. 914-490-4306
By chance did you remove the leaf springs? Thanks jeff
No didn’t have to.
@@Jvcometok thanks. Did you have to replace the bottom under where the front shackle is?
@@jpmplpjpgp9735 up to it. Not under it.
Also on the driver's side where you cut around the leaf spring shackle how did you cut it? A plasma cutter?
Thanks for your input. Very much appreciated
Why not buy the mid frame repair kit? they are like 150 bucks a side
I’ll look into them next time. Thanks
I'm in Michigan.. anyone can give me an idea of how much a job like this might be? Thanks
2500
How much would a job like that cost.
About a grand per side. Plus materials
Why do so many frames from that era seem to rust out soo bad?
Salt and chemicals they use during winter and coastal salt air. But mostly cheap Chineseim metal 😎
Wow nice work ! How much does something like this cost 💲 ?
All depends on how extensive the rust is. Plus material
Thank you ! I am gonna call you soon 🔜 and hope it's something you will be willing to do.
Idk why they make box frames like this knowing this is a major problem. My friends chevy truck did this but worse. Take some cheap transmission fluid and squirt the inside frame down it will creep its way up the wall of the frame.
That’s a good idea thanks
It is 21 century. We use Lanolin and Cosmoline for it.
Gonna check into that Thanks
Is it just ford....or do all of them have frames that rot out ?
It’s hit and miss a lot depends on where the vehicle is used and what part of the country. We’ve seen all makes and models have issues. So you need to check each one individually before you get one. Thanks for watching 👍
Toyota worst, then GMC than Dodge and Ford even.
You in south central Michigan ?
New Jersey
There is no way you got full penetration. That welder would barely be able to do it on max settings and you have it turned down.
You would be surprised at how well this welder works.
Where is it located? Can you give me the address?
Millville New Jersey
Is that a raptor...one of the most expensive pickups....and its not that old....and it rust out that bad....what a rip off.
Regular F150.