Oooh Nooo... Not the CKP Sensor....?
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- This video I replace the crankshaft position sensor on a 2012 Honda Goldwing to fix the intermittent DTC Code 19 no start.
This is not for the faint of heart.
Thread about it here
goldwingdocs.c...
excellent instructional video. I'm sure this will help tremendously to get mine sorted. I will, of course, have the additional fun of dealing with the airbag and all it's paraphernalia...
After hearing what you did with a rock, I tapped the timing cover with a hammer, and my bike started. I have the pulse generator and gasket ordered, I WILL change it, but I wanted to try your trick for 2 reasons, 1) To see if it worked on my bike [in case of emergency]. 2) To confirm it is indeed the pulse generator that is the problem and not a problem in the connector underneath the air box. Now I’m thinking I will cut the wires from the old pulse generator and splice/solder in an automotive waterproof connector at the front of the bike and wait until I do an air filter replacement to eliminate the connector underneath the air box. Thank you for mentioning your “rock” trick.
I'm glad you found that "bush fix" useful it kept me from having to tow a time or two. I'm not usually a fan of splicing or soldering it it can be a consideration on this, especially if you have an ABS model. I would be interested to know how you make out with you project. Ride Safe
I watched it all, Bob. I have 2 things to say. 1. You're my friggin' hero! and 2. I'm selling my Goldwing before something goes wrong. Well done!
Thanks Rich. I felt like i was swimming against a rip tide with this one. But for all the miles and hours of miles she’s taken me, this TLC was well earned by her. 😉
@@SCWMoto I can't imagine what it would have cost to have it done at a dealership.
@@HaveMotoWillTravel Right? Probably a small fortune. And whats crazy is there are much worse jobs in her that would require a bigger shovel to get to. Thankfully Honda,s are very reliable and well designed. They make use of every available inch.
Well done, sir. very good job,
Thanks for sharing your thoughts with others, I appreciate your time and efforts. Have a safe ride. Thank you again,
Mohammed
thanks! followed along after getting parts for my 2010
my non ABS GL1800 - started right up!
@@johnwrycza awsome
It looks like a big job
First! I'll finish watching and then leave my real comment. But for now, you are fearless to tackle this.
Thank you for sharing. 👍🏼 I just discovered today my 2012 ABS Goldwing not starting and showing the Code 19 after 111,497 miles, so I will be doing the same job when the parts arrive. Thank you again for sharing your experience, I will have more confidence digging into mine.
I do have a question for the option of moving the connector for next time needing to do this job. What is your opinion on after getting to the connector, cutting the connector and splicing/soldering a length of wire, extending the connector so it will be accessible behind the front cowl covers? Thus eliminating having to remove the air box and lift the gas tank. It seems like there is no reason that would not work.
The harnesses are all clustered together share water and dust proof boots and have specific paths they run for space considerations. I didn't look to see what the potential of relocating any of the plugs would entail. there is very little play in wire lengths as well. as for altering lengths, I personally wouldn't do it there is an argument for doing so since you have had to go in there once, but I think this is just one of those things that can happen to a bike. But lightning can hit twice in the same place I suppose. 111K is a good run hopefully you get it sorted out for the next 111K. Ride safe. let me know how you make out I would be interested to know.
I hope splicing would work also. sure would save alot of time. Hope you'll make a video also. Thanks Ted, SATX, 2012 Goldwing
@@tedcollie7309 - I did the splicing. It has worked for at least 1000+ miles so far.
@@SCWMoto - I spliced in a second waterproof connector and so far after 1000+ miles it’s working fine. The next time I change the air filter my plans are to eliminate the factory connector under the air box. My OCD thinking is, splicing in another connector means I won’t lose wire length should I need to or when I need to do the repair again. And it eliminates the connector under the air box. So far so good, hoping the repair lasts.
@@wncryder that should be fine. If the connection is good enough to handle vibrations, moisture and heat, it should last the life of the sensor.
i just sold my 2005 becuase it was starting to develop too many issues due to age. I now have a 2020 tracer 900GT
That’ll work. That bike will run forever too. Great engine. Enjoy and ride safe.
I just finished doing this on my '15 F6B deluxe (code 19 repair). I did not have to remove any of the tire fender equipment. I just removed the top and bottom fairing pieces surrounding the timing cover. Luckily mine is a non-abs model, so it was quite easy to disconnect the CKP sensor, once I moved coil 5 it was easy to reach the connection point for the sensor. I replaced the sensor with a new one and placed the new gasket and silicon sealant across the top and bottom where the engine case halves mate up. I have a video on my channel showing where the sensor connects and how I removed it. Honestly was easier than replacing the air filter in my opinion for non-abs.
ua-cam.com/video/uddZ1X7j7qc/v-deo.htmlsi=Ks026KyNXyktGiS7
I thought you meant the CPS, was wondering WTF is a CKP??? Click, it is torqued. I always wonder WHY folks tighten bolts with impact guns.....good way to wreck your aluminum mount point but looks like you're ok.