I watch all your videos for my truck, man if I had the tools I’d do it myself but honestly would love for y’all to work on it hard to trust anybody but when I watch this channel n you work on it it all goes so well, perfection
If you remove the axle, the axle nut is a 35 mm not 36mm. Used their videos to replace both of my upper and lower control arms with the struts also. Thanks 1AAuto. Tony
My thoughts, having just done this on my 2013 Chevy Avalanche: First, my school of thought is if one ball joint needs replacement, and you have to take everything apart anyway - replace both control arms and tie rod, (inner and outer). I would not re-use a rusty sway bar link bolt, and I would use Fluid Film to goop up the new link to keep the rust monster at bay. You don’t need to remove the shock. Loosen the top nuts so you can move the shock around a bit after removing the lower shock bolts. If you replace the upper control arm you MIGHT have to remove the shock to get the upper cam bolts off. You don’t have to remove the axle either, although if you don’t, there will not be enough room to get a torque wrench on the upper control arm ball joint nut. Check the torque specs for your year GM vehicle as these specs do vary. Don’t rely on the torques stated in this video. Overall, I’d say this is a very good representation of this job.
+rascoe1717 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Following this video has you putting in the strut before the cv axle, can't get the cv axle in if you do it in this order. Video shows cv axle going in after the strut, but when showing the cv axle being slid into place, the strut isn't installed. Had to redo work following this.
You don’t have to unbolt the cv axle... if you want to I guess but I did it on my 2015 Silverado and I just undid the cv nut and took the spindle and everything off and tied the cv shaft to the frame so it wasn’t hanging
Hello...I'm in the process of replacing both lower control arms on my 2014 Silverado and I noticed something. When you were putting the new control arm on, it showed that you put the shock/strut back on BEFORE you put the axle back on, but I tried it step by step and I could not get the axle back in with the strut in the way! Was your video somehow edited?! It looked like some of your steps aren't in order!
My ball joint is frozen on, I spent about 11 hours trying to get it off and it will nottttt budge. Any suggestions other than a pickle fork, hammer and ball joint separator?
Is the torque spec on the lower control arm nuts really 59 ft lbs? GM I thought calls for 129ft lbs. "Lower control arm to frame- 129 ft/lbs" Can you advise?
+Complete Tuning Solutions Thanks for checking us out! On this particular application, yes, the rear bolts would need to be torqued to 59 ft/lbs. We would suggest double checking proper torque specifications in a repair manual specific for your vehicle before completing installation.
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Is it cast iron? why mine is aluminum? it is a 2009 (not 4x4)
I love that you guys use rusty regular vehicles in your videos. 😂 just like regular people’s cars.
You can take the lower control arm off with out taking off the knuckle or cv axle .
I watch all your videos for my truck, man if I had the tools I’d do it myself but honestly would love for y’all to work on it hard to trust anybody but when I watch this channel n you work on it it all goes so well, perfection
If you remove the axle, the axle nut is a 35 mm not 36mm. Used their videos to replace both of my upper and lower control arms with the struts also. Thanks 1AAuto. Tony
Great video and work you were very specific bout wat steps to take and torque specifications were to go by.. thank you
My thoughts, having just done this on my 2013 Chevy Avalanche: First, my school of thought is if one ball joint needs replacement, and you have to take everything apart anyway - replace both control arms and tie rod, (inner and outer). I would not re-use a rusty sway bar link bolt, and I would use Fluid Film to goop up the new link to keep the rust monster at bay. You don’t need to remove the shock. Loosen the top nuts so you can move the shock around a bit after removing the lower shock bolts. If you replace the upper control arm you MIGHT have to remove the shock to get the upper cam bolts off. You don’t have to remove the axle either, although if you don’t, there will not be enough room to get a torque wrench on the upper control arm ball joint nut. Check the torque specs for your year GM vehicle as these specs do vary. Don’t rely on the torques stated in this video. Overall, I’d say this is a very good representation of this job.
+@mikehartmann5187 Thanks for the feedback!
This video helped me swap out both lowers on my ‘14 GMC Yukon Xl. Torqued to spec and all.
So detailed with your instructions. And I really appreciate mentioning the torque ft ft lbs. Thank you guys!
+rascoe1717 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for doing this with a rust belt vehicle. As you know, defeating the rust is 1/2 the battle!
+Ed The Impala Guy Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
I’ve had that same craftsman 3/8 torque wrench. Been fantastic
Following this video has you putting in the strut before the cv axle, can't get the cv axle in if you do it in this order. Video shows cv axle going in after the strut, but when showing the cv axle being slid into place, the strut isn't installed. Had to redo work following this.
You don’t have to unbolt the cv axle... if you want to I guess but I did it on my 2015 Silverado and I just undid the cv nut and took the spindle and everything off and tied the cv shaft to the frame so it wasn’t hanging
Assembly order is INCORRECT Need to install Axle BEFORE Strut. This video was edited incorrectly!
props on no power tools, no torch, and not using specialty suspension tools.
Good to see ya again Andy from 1aauto
Thank you for checking us out! +lip stain
I beat on that LCA for a good 7-8 minutes and it wouldn't come apart.
I'll try a different size ball joint separator to see if that makes a difference
Amazing video. Is this the same process for a 2008 Escalade ESV?
Hello...I'm in the process of replacing both lower control arms on my 2014 Silverado and I noticed something. When you were putting the new control arm on, it showed that you put the shock/strut back on BEFORE you put the axle back on, but I tried it step by step and I could not get the axle back in with the strut in the way! Was your video somehow edited?! It looked like some of your steps aren't in order!
+Ken McColloch Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Watch the video when they install the axle. The strut isn't even there. That's why it goes in so eay
Great video!! Thanks a bunch!!
I was told this takes 3.2 hours to do? Do you have a shop in chicago?
good idea to grab a wire brush and clean off some of that surface rust and maybe use some anti-seize
Great vid! how about a video for a 2017 gmc sierra denali 1500 lower control arm with magneride suspension?
+pdub1076 We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
I have cast iron lower control arm on my 2014 Silverado, my question is it interchangeable with stamp steel?
I laughed every time he said a little rusty 🤣🤣
I also want to be ready to rock and roll. If I can't get the ball joints out I may be doing the whole control arm on my rust bucket.
So are they steel or aluminum?? I have a 2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 ?
Do you sell Lower Control Arm for a 1999 Chevy Suburban
Thanks for the inquiry! Is it a 1500 or 2500 model? Is it a 4wd or 2wd model? +Martin Parra
@@1AAuto It's a 1500 4WD
My ball joint is frozen on, I spent about 11 hours trying to get it off and it will nottttt budge. Any suggestions other than a pickle fork, hammer and ball joint separator?
Is the torque spec on the lower control arm nuts really 59 ft lbs? GM I thought calls for 129ft lbs. "Lower control arm to frame- 129 ft/lbs" Can you advise?
+Complete Tuning Solutions Thanks for checking us out! On this particular application, yes, the rear bolts would need to be torqued to 59 ft/lbs. We would suggest double checking proper torque specifications in a repair manual specific for your vehicle before completing installation.
Removing the axle really required?
Yes, at 4:01 you can see there is no room between the ball joint and the axle to lift up and remove lower arm.
Yes, you won't have enough room to lift the ball joint up and out with the axle in place.
Do not hit your axle with a metal hammer. It will mushroom and the nut will cross thread.
what size is that lower control arm bolt the 18 bolt with 24 nut . I need 2 new nuts for those bolts
What size I need breaker bar for 36 socket
“Tap it real hard”😆
Man. That upper control arm needs to be changed too. The ball joint was very loose
Took an under an hour job and turned it to a 2 hour job with all of the extra crap
He ain't had to do all that just to put a damn lower control arm on 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Air tools is faster in today’s world just saying
"it's pretty rusty..." That's an older GM for ya.🙃
How bout "switch to air tools" instead of a ratchet 😝