How to Replace Control Arm with Ball Joint 07-15 Chevy Silverado 1500
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
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New Control Arm with Ball Joint Set from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1ASF...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace failing, rusted, rotted, or damaged control arms with ball joint. This video is applicable to the 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 Chevy Silverado 1500
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/owV/1AX...
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/ogx/1AX...
• 21mm wrench
• Complete Metric Socket Set 1aau.to/ojL/1AX...
• Grease Gun
• Pickle Fork
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/ohh/1AX...
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/obV/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oyD/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/oww/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/ooG/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/ogh/1AX...
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Chevy Silverado 2007-2013 2nd Gen: • Chevy Silverado 2007-2...
Chevy Auto Repair Videos: • Chevy Auto Repair Videos
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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I know this is an old video, but for anyone reading comments contemplating DIY’ing this, be warned: especially if you live in the rust belt, expect to have a big challenge getting the upper control arm cam bolts off. Use a penetrant like PB Blaster generously all over those bolts and cams. They tend to rust and seize inside the control arm sleeve. The bolts cost around $8-$9 bucks. Buy a couple, and have them on hand in case you have to destroy the old bolts to get them off. Don’t put rusty bolts in a new control arm. I also gooped up the bolts and inside the sleeves with Fluid Film to try and slow down the rust monster. Lastly, as others have commented, just remove the shock assembly - especially if the cam bolts don’t want to budge. Good luck!
I like how yall edited the second bolt install. Must've been tough with a big coil in your way.
best most explicitly done video of mechanical repair I’ve ever seen! Superlative job in videography and audio.
im not a shade tree mechanic nor a certified but I know enough to know what part is going bad and know how to use UA-cam and go to 1A auto to shop and buy quality parts for my vehicle and save money thank guy you have gained a subscriber
Good job on that ride height. I snug the bolts then torque on the ground. Tougher with tire in the way but more accurate
If you just swap the bolt to the other side it wont be so hard to get out. It doesn’t matter what side the bolt goes through
Thanks for the videos they are really helpful. i changed my upper and lower control arms because of these videos struts are next thanks keep the good work!
+DUCK SAUCE Thank you for your feedback! We are happy we could help.
Remove the strut. Seriously, a few bolts up top and on the bottom and it's out. It always bothers me when I see people who choose to work drastically harder because it's TECHNICALLY less steps. One extra step saves tons of time and reduces damaging/cross threading or injuring one of your guys.
I hear you I’m a mechanic myself
Man I swear I watched to see how big of a job it’d be. Lol dude was stressing me out seeing him struggle.
So I can just pop that strut out taking the couple top bolts and bottom maybe pry it out I don’t need a shock compressor?
Really good video. I have to change damaged control arms and the details will surely help. Thanks again!
The pain of having to do these parts all one at a time.. Excellent quality video tho! Much respect to you guys
+Mark G Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
+Mark G Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto no problem! You all have definitely earned a customer in me, thank you for all your effort!
If I’m doing upper and lower and struts at the same time what order should they be done? Looks like upper would be easier without strut installed.
If the plastic part is still in the alignment cam and you reuse that cam and bolt would you still retain the wheel alignment after reassembly ? If you replace the bolt and cam due to severe corrosion would you then need an alignment ?
When I was a kid I used to help my uncle in his auto repair shop, he’d get so pissed off working on new vehicles because there was so much crap he had to take off just to get to the engine. I wonder what he would think of these wheel covers just cracks me up
Thank you for this video it was very educational and helpful 👍🏽
Great video and thanks for sharing. Strong work getting those cam bolts out around that strut. Can those upper ball joints be pressed out of that control arm?
10 minutes on one bolt, pretty typical.
So true 🤣
Yeah bro but in real life sometimes is 1hr on one bolt, or even more
@@wilbertcoria4768 painfully true
Is it only chevys seems like they bolted them so they stay there forever
I Love This guy always says easier if you do this, then has trouble getting it out lol.
Rotor was brand new during repair, after repair when mounting tire the rotor was rusted....lol
But thanks for all your videos.
Spike Boston if you are a fun and follow them. You should know they did repairs on this truck before and used a clip from past repairs. No need to do another installation video on how to mount the tire. When you have a clip somewhere in their hard drive 😁😁
Or maybe just realized the upper ball joint not was bad after changing brakes and rotors.. Ask me how you know.... 🤫🥴
Thank you for your expertise
All around depending on ground or use of lift three to four hours to replace all four ball joints
Thanks for the video.i was really worried about not getting the bolt out
Lol my bolt won't come out and it's a Texas truck has zero rust. Driver side went easy passenger side is being a pain
Good thing I have to replace my strut too.
I saw on a different video where the guy, after removing the old control arm, used it to spread the brackets before installing the new one. He did this to make it easier to install the new one.
+bluzeblast Thanks for the tip!
Thank you.....we'll done👍.
Simple fix once you know witch control arms your truck has I believe there’s three different types for those years
There's no axle in the way, no wonder he can get a socket in there. Dang it! Looks much easier.
This was easy took me about 15min thanks 1a auto
Is there any downside to replacing just the upper control arm/joint. I plan on eventually doing the lower at another time.
Faster if you remove strut. Or at least separate bolt from adjuster more wiggle room to get bolt out.
Is there any reason why you didn't just use your small air impact to loosen the 21millimeter bolts?
shouldnt you mark the plates before removing them to get it somewhat close so you can take it to the alignment shop?
The 2001 chevy silverado also has lower control arm with the ball joint alredy on it and need to replace whole control arm
All these videos I watched and the bolt just comes right out. Each time I've done it it's rusted in the sleeve and it is a nightmare!
Welcome to the northeast lol
5 hrs yesterday getting one bolt out
lol took me 4 hours to get one bolt out
Might be a good idea to get new camber bolts prior to starting, snapped the first one trying to loosen it.
Thanks for the suggestion and for watching! +Alan Duncan
Yes sir ,they will snap just about everytime.
@@charlesalexanderjr2247 how do you get the bolts out after you snap them?
When replacing the whole control arm with the ball joint. Does it matter if you have aluminum or steel steering knuckle????
I have a 2007 NBS 2wd, torqued my new control arm to 140 as this video says. Now the mounting shackles are bent in and the exposed threads on the bolts(8) are more than the other side(4). I just read on a forum that there were 2 designs on the bolts, slotted(140 lbs) and flat on 1 side the entire bolt(77lbs). Did I need to torque at 77lbs?
I got insane anxiety of the anger that would’ve caused me trying to get those bolts past the spring lol
+testofeagle Thanks for the feedback!
It took me 2 hours to do upper control arms but I had to remove right spring to get bolt out
I liked the video a lot, very well produced. 😊
+lizardtoter Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Could you have upgraded to Aluminum Control Arm ?
looks like GM has 3 Variants ?
Cast Iron
Forged Aluminum
Stamped Steel
Joni English which do you suggest I upgrade to? I have a light duty K1500 Silverado that needs a new ball joint. I plan on doing both sides and just replacing the control arms because I have a ton of bushings that need replaced as well. It would just be easier to replace the control arm with a ball joint installed already. I dont think the Stamped steel would be any kind of upgrade, would it?
Getting the bolts out would be easier with the quick strut removed
Question ?
what are the Interchangeability
with Cast STEEL Control ARM
FORGED ALUMINIUM Control ARM and STAPPED Steel Control ARM
I don’t see how the bolts line up with the ball joint bushings with the strut in place? I’ve seen everyone have to remove the strut and spring
You just use a jack or if one pushes or pulls the caliper side in or out and the other pushes the ball joint up into the tapered socket then it’s easy easy
Is it possible to do this without throwing the alignment off? Like marking the cam adjusters before removing?
Excellent video... I know exactly what to do.
+John Simon Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Love your videos
Thanks
+Sergio Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Ty
+charlie williams Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Please I want to ask what course can I offer before I become a mechanic
I have to replace both lower and upper control arms, would it be easiest to take the strut off and then install both upper and lowers?
+Chase Thanks for watching! You do not have to remove the strut to replace either the upper or lower control arm, but it might give you better clearance when removing the upper.
Thanks for the video! Do the bolts have to go back in that way? It obviously makes it harder to get them in and out but I guess that’s the proper way to do it?
Yes, that is the proper way for the bolts to go back in. Thanks for watching! +Jay Eickholtz
But...Would it hurt anything to put them in from otherside?
seems like a poor design by chevy.
@@1AAuto goog video plan on trying this myself an this video sure helped my confidence
@@b_rad5678 the only way to properly torque the nuts, if wheel is on for ride height the strut would be on, there would be no access to torque
It doesn’t matter what side you put the bolts back in.
did i do something wrong if the hole for the pin in the bolt is far unter the crone of the nut?
Thank you !
+Scotty D Thank you!
So remove the axle and throw it away?
It would be easier to remove the shock absorber then install the parts
Thank you for the feedback! +Kevin Aragón
Yep more work but less headaches! 👍
Hey guys at 1a auto, I just installed some new upper control arms with new ball joints on my 2009 Ford Crown Vic. Once I put the ball joints into the knuckle and then tightened them down with the nut. I noticed that the boot of the ball joint kind of spun in a tightening motion as I was tightening it down, is that normal or OK
+gbpackers41730 This should be ok as long as you tightened to the manufacturer suggested torque specs.
I’m going to impact the crap out of everything!!!!🤬
Thanks for checking us out. We would not suggest using an impact gun for the installation of these parts as you will need to torque the parts to the proper specifications and you do not want to over torque. Hope this helps you out. +Operator 9037
great video
+Paid N Full Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What is that control arm? Cast or aluminum?
How do you know you have to replace the whole control arm and not just the ball joint?
It's just better and easier to replace the arm it's more pricy ,but it's just better in my opinion
It’s not worth trying to press out the ball joint. Lower maybe, but the upper is almost impossible
I want to trust this company. You guys literally have some of the best install videos on the internet. But the parts are sometimes 1/8 the cost of factory and even 1/4 the price of moog/mevotech ect. $179 for 10 piece aluminum front end kid for a 2007 Cadillac Escalade (its a $5-7k trust at best now so doesnt need $$$ replacement parts) Just dont want parts that might fail/break and put lives in danger as some cheap parts have been known to do that. Lifetime warranty doesnt help if a ball joint snaps at 30mph at a year. Reviews are usually bought and paid for by most of the internet now or happen right after the sale. Sure they seem great when first installed. I still may a try a kit but literally everything 1aauto sells seems to cheap to be any good. Am I wrong?
the brake cleaner . with alot of cans .should be useful to clear up alittle rust :p
Are the control arms steel or cast iron ?
+Czar C The ones we carry are cast steel. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c .
Torque specs on the upper control arm bolts???
what do you do when the upper ball joint just spins when you try to tighten it?
mathew hunt
Begin the cursing. Hope you got it, as cutting a ball joint is tough being hardened steal
Vice grip on the stud
How do you know when your at ride height ? 7:25
All you have to do is used a hydraulic jack under the control arm when it's back together but not tightened & lift it up & put the weight of the vehicle on it then torque the nuts & bolts to spec . It's called loading the suspension . You want to do this so the vehicle sits like it has weight on it for ride height plus if you were to tighten up the bolts & nuts without doing this step you risk the chance of the bushing tearing or cracking & going bad prematurely because the bushing isn't made to turn it's job is to absorb shock & vibration so the bolt & inner steel bushing alows everything to move up & down instead of the rubber bushing trying to be forced to move which can tear or rip the rubber . If you have it on a lift just use an adjustable jack stand that's used for vehicles on a lift & either lower the vehicle onto it or simply adjust the screw adjustment to push up on the control arms then torque them to spec . Once done it's also best to take it to a reputable alignment shop & have the front end aligned so it steers the best it can plus gives you added milage on your tires .
@@peteloomis8456 or if you’re issuing a regular jack. You can lift the upper arm upwards. Put a jack stand under the lower control arm and let the weight of the truck side. Then put the upper control are where it goes
What kind of grease did you use?
+Kevin Torres Thanks for watching! We use ball joint grease that can be found at any auto parts store!
I’ve been looking everywhere for torque specs for the front end. I can’t find anything. Anybody know where I can?
Hanes manual. Has them all
for a 2010 silverado Cheyenne edition 4door 4wd . How many Grease Points are there. i know the theres 3 for each left and right front tires... wondering if theres more?? been searching for Grease points on all truck models and have not seen any. Can i a tiny bit of help :p
+elvis pressedtalot Thanks for watching! Unfortunately we do not have any diagrams available for this vehicle. There should be grease points any where there is a joint, so probably the upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and outer tie rod! 1aauto.com
Wow
What a rust bucket.
Why do they put the bolts facing the inside why not put them the other way
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wth, how many different trucks is this one video???
How do you tell if the control are is bad! You never said that.
+powskier Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Control Arm Assembly
Steering wheel vibration. One of the first symptoms commonly associated with bad control arms is steering wheel vibrations. ...
Steering wandering. Another symptom commonly associated with bad or failing control arm assembly is steering wandering. ...
Clunking noises.
Hey if you loosen nuts on strut tower you don't have to fight spring to get bolt out. Your welcome. If you are going to make a video, read shop manual first and you wont look like an idiot. 🤣
Skips over literally the most difficult part: getting front bolt back through control arm with strut still in place. That was the only reason I looked up a how-to video. Thanks for nothing.
I can't recall where I saw the video procedure (I've watched so many this past week) for precisely that but it's doable though it is something of a 'black art'. It involves using the fingertips and slightly moving the arm while removing and replacing those bolts. Fortunately(?) I'm replacing the struts too so I'll have room to work on that upper arm. One video shows the importance of _not_ tightening the nuts fully until the full weight of the vehicle is back on the suspension otherwise the bushings could tear.
Why the hell didn’t they just put it in through the front
What's the torques
Idk why but people that torque lug nuts seem goofy to me. If you don’t do it often sure, if you do you should have an accurate elbow torque wrench. 15 lbs is palm ratchet snug. 30lbs is regular 3/8 ratchet snug. 50lbs you put some force into the same ratchet. 75 lbs you’re pushing pretty hard on a common size ratchet. 100lbs is snug with some force with a breaker bar. 150lbs is so effort into a typical breaker bar.
Because peoples strength levels vary and your method is as inaccurate as it gets
Why didnt you just remove the strut? Would of made it a lot easier!!??
Impressed he didnt cuss once
Engineering and at its finest LOL
Where's the axle?
Is this truck 4x4
It appears to be RWD like mine.
so my ball joint snapped any idea on how to get that out TIA
+Robbie Edwards Thanks for watching! If the stud snapped off and is stuck in the knuckle then you will have to pop it out one way or another. A lot of penetrant and an air chisel could be useful!
This is less realistic without the crazy amount of cussing that would actually be involved in this job.
You skipped the part that I wanted to see. Where you inserted the front bolt.what a wasted of time.
This man struggled
So stupid they don't just make a replacement upper ball joint. Why change the entire arm and dick with getting an alignment over a 20 dollar ball joint.
lol would of been easier if he removed the strut
+Michael Carstairs Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.