Best Damaged Thread Repair? Let’s Settle This! Heli Coil, TIME-SERT, E-Z LOK, JB Weld, HHIP, Loctite
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2022
- 7 Thread Repairs:TIME-SERT, Heli Coil, E-Z LOK, HHIP, Loctite Stripped Thread Repair Epoxy, JB Weld, and Copper Wire. Stripped thread repair products compared for maximum tightening strength and compared against a baseline (1/2 inch threaded aluminum). Damaged threads repaired by each product then tested for tensile strength until the product failed or the bolt broke. I purchased all of the products to ensure an unbiased review. So, thank you for supporting the channel!
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➡ An easy way to find past videos along with products tested: bit.ly/2FCrBpk A big thanks to Jim for putting this together.
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➡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
➡ Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
TIME SERT: amzn.to/3OZvmUj
Heli Coil: amzn.to/3NASSG1
Loctite Threadlocker Red: amzn.to/3NGoBFR
Loctite Stripped Thread Repair Epoxy: amzn.to/3R8aFr1
JB Weld: amzn.to/3yC1ND2
E-Z LOK: amzn.to/3upNL4P
HHIP: amzn.to/3yxZkbo
Videography Equipment:
Sony DSC-RX10 III Cyber-shot Digital Still Camera: amzn.to/2YdXvPw
Canon 70D Camera: amzn.to/31b5Gy0
Azden Microphone: amzn.to/34d3DLE
Go Pro Bundle: amzn.to/3Ca0ZVN
This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC - Навчання та стиль
Not only do I appreciate the effort to make all the tests and comparisons of the thread repairs, I salute your ability to drill and tap ALL those test pieces. There is a LOT of work involved in these videos that don't even add to the video content, or barely so
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm Video suggestion (but certainly too expensive): automatic tapping mechanisms. Tapping heads of different brands vs FlexArm.
His testing is invaluable, especially for a DIYer like me. Before I try anything I haven't used before, the first thing I do is see if he has done something on it. The time and effort that must go into these is mind boggling.
They don't add to the video content... They permit the video content XD
Quite the exercise in patience on this one for sure! That's a lot of tapping.
Just about to move into my new house as a first time home owner and I have referenced your videos so much. The recommendations you give are one of the few I trust and I couldn't be happier with what I've bought. Thank you for your unbiased and logical approach as usual and I hope you enjoy making these as much as I like watching!
EDIT: Holy cow! Thank you so much everyone for the well wishing! I am laid up with an ankle injury that happened this past weekend and am surrounded by all of my boxes of unpacked stuff, I wish there was a gadget to help me now 😆 but I am about to go out and enjoy a bit of birthday fun with my good friends and I will get back to unpacking after a few days rest. Thank you all again, I genuinely appreciate so much well wishing, my little house feels even more of a gift now.
Congratulations on the new house and thank you for the positive feedback!
I started to buy my tools based on his recommendation. Witch is hard, since not all brands are available in Romania… but now at least I know what to look at… specially when the seller is telling me a lot of marketing bullst… and I’m like We’re going to test that 😂😂
I tell literally anyone I know that’s looking for any kind of tool to watch his videos, very very good quality testing
the scientific method is a hell of a drug.
lol.
Is it a new house or new to you? On a new house, or new cabinets, go through and try to tighten all the cabinet door hinges. My bet is that you'll find at least one, if not several stripped ones. I think this is due to the screws being small and the people at the cabinet factory being in a hurry with power drivers. Repair is a similar concept to this video, except you drill out the hole with a 3/16" bit, glue in a piece of 3/16" dowel, then redrill the hole and reinstall the hinge. Ask me how I know this.
Something interesting about threaded inserts is that for space hardware (which I work on), we use these as standard when threading in to softer materials like magnesium or aluminum. As you saw, it makes things stronger!
Thanks for sharing.
I'm guessing that, since the aluminium remains the limiting material, they're stronger simply because of the slightly larger threaded aluminium hole having more thread overall, combined with a courser thread? So the strongest solution would be the one with the largest outer diameter and a course thread?
@@bakedbeings I would imagine that the insert would exceed the bolt of the same size as the steel insert would expand against the aluminum as the bolt pulls against the insert. Kind of like a climbing expander.
My guess would be that the inserts are steel inserts rather than another soft metal.
@@bigrenegade7121 they are
I can't thank you enough, drilling and tapping all 48 pieces then testing them, collecting data and plot them for comparision, and then producing a nice quality video. You're always the guy I go to before spending money on multiple products and running a whole bunch of trials with incorrect measurements. Im gonna try the JBweld steel epoxy since I have it in my garage, if that doesn't work then I'll try one of the inserts! Thank you once again.
13:49 Pro tip for everyone: If you send aluminium parts for anodizing, insert the Helicoils AFTER the anodizing process. This one time I had to drill, tap, and insert some 500 Helicoils into pieces a coworker messed up (never checked his threads), and when they returned from anodizing, all Helicoils were gone. Whatever acid bath they used to clean the parts, it had no problem dissolving the Helicoils.
Thanks for sharing.
Anodizing means that you are turning the part into an anode. Both stainless steel and aluminum work because they form an oxide so quickly that it forms a skin that protects the metal underneath. That means that if you scratch through it or prevent it from happening the part can be eaten up. That's why they will use a process to build up the thickness of that skin. With a conductive material instead of only getting heat when atoms combine you can also get electrical current. As in you can kinda think of rust being like fire since at some point if it happens you see flame but matter just has some basic ways it works so depending on how you add electricity to metals you can get reactions and with anodizing you are forcing it to react. If you mix metals they will make a battery and there is a scale of nobility if metals showing how much they react. Steel and aluminum aren't that bad normally but in an anodizing tank they will react. By having those inserts in there you probably had some minor changes to the oxide layer since it had to eat the steel before it would begin to work on the aluminum.
You might also find it interesting that aluminums oxide layer unlike the chromium oxide layer tends to be a bit more open and thicker and is what makes aluminum special because it's really hard your average sandpaper that will cut even very hard steel is aluminum oxide. It's why it makes great boats since you have a soft tough inner material with an ultra hard exterior that self heals and doesn't wear much when you run it on shore. Some metals when you anodize or form colored oxide layers on them change the surface pattern so they reflect light different like a peacock feather but aluminum is different and they put dye in the mix that gets trapped into the skin.
It just accurred to me that thermite is iron oxide and aluminum. Aluminum is extremely reactive and I don't know all the chemistry but once you get it hot enough it can actually pull the oxygen from the iron basically just pure rust to itself and burn it. It's not as reactive as magnesium but it's up there and can be used in explosives as well. A safety note is to not mix them when grinding at least on a large scale.
Also, holes are supposed to be masked off. Anodized threads are bad. Anodizing in threads can cause bolts to seize.
I used to work at a shop and we had that problem too... A couple whoopsies with batches of parts helicoiled before treating. They'd come back all blackened and stained and we had to redo the parts.
Always fun redoing stuff in an absolute rush...
Want to remove steel bits from am aluminum part? Immerse it in a saturated alum solution. It will dissolve the steel out without touching the aluminum. Be patient…
There's a reason this channel has almost 2 and a half MILLION subscribers. Thank you for making these entertaining and helpful videos.
Wow, thank you!
that would be 5 "half millions"
@@bndjaric ohhh yeah, or 10 quarter millions
@@GOAT_GOATERSON LOL
finally drilled out snapped AC compressor lower mounting M8 bolt from my Fiesta's aluminum oil pan and was going to use Loctite to try to fix new bolt in the damaged thread. This video is just in time - ordered from amazon $25 kit for all kinds of metric threads, similar to Heli Coil. Project Farm, you are the best
Thanks!
Seriously- thank you.
This is absolutely a laboratory level test. I’m completely sold on all the metal thread inserts but HeliCoil will probably be the one I choose when needed, based on its smaller diameter and because it’s the most commonly stocked in local auto parts stores. It’s better corrosion resistance is a bonus.
Thanks and you are welcome!
yeah. ezlok and any stainless coil insert seem to be great picks for a factory grade repair.
I wonder if you could use a permanent loctite on the helicoil for frequent use. do the helicoils have problems backing out?
@@robomatt1600 I have heard of people using thread locker on inserts before to prevent the inserts from coming out when the fastener is removed, so I would say yes. I was rebuilding my brother's 4.6L 2 valve mustang engine (well known engine for spitting out spark plugs). It had a spark plug thread already repaired in the past with a time sert. The time sert was not put in with a thread locker (that we could tell), & because of this the time sert actually corroded to the spark plug so bad that we could not get it off to put back in the head (needed it for the new spark plug). So he ended up having to run one bad sparkplug misfiring really badly on one cylinder until we could source a new insert. Long story short I put thread locker on the new time sert before putting it in, & I always use thread locker on all of my inserts of any kind from now on just for peace of mind. Silly reason to end up waiting to be back on the road/track or miss a car meet/show.
@@robomatt1600 I was actually really surprised that the timesheet corroded to the spark plug instead of the aluminum. That part I still don't understand.
yes.. recently I needed severAl different size inserts. I knew I had some heli coil kits around somewhere but could not even remember what sizes they were... Did a search on Amazon and several kits With the Horusdy (which works exactly as the heli coil) not only being the cheapest but with the best selection. I am all about buying 'kits' these days. I did find the old heli coil packs I had bought years ago... None of em were the right size of course... and one of em did not even have one insert used the other two had one insert each gone. I probly paid more for those three packs of one thread than I did for the entire Horusdy kit. And.. it is all organized and in a big orange plastic case. Should be easy to find in the future. Oh... this is a metric and SAE kit with about ten sizes of each. Each has it's own drill and tap... and insert tool ... Very common sizes. Can't imagine I will need anything bigger or smaller in the future. Each size comes with about ten inserts. You can also just buy the inserts and use your own drill and tap and ciobble up an insert tool from a smaller bolt that you make a slot in.
I used a cheap eBay helicoil clone kit for holding my front axle clamp on my dirt bike. I was really nervous to push it with the repair, but it's been holding well for over two years. Your results make me even more confident!
Thanks for sharing! Glad that it has held up!
IDKFA.
Yes even the cheap kits are stronger than the parent metal, especially in aluminium alloys, as long as there is enough metal left around to spread the load. Also works for fasteners that are removed very often, so is very common in avionics as well to have 300 inserts in a unit to hold the screws that are used for hermetic covers, and on aero engines as well, in the assorted aluminium castings. Just have to use the right recommended corrosion treatments when assembling them.
The differences are more in how consistently you can install them. The chinese kits sometimes cross thread due to low quality installation tools that come with them. It's really hard to mess up a timesert in comparison...
helicoils work great, they increase the diameter that engages in the parent metal, which makes them a lot stronger than the original thread, and they take advantage of the lower elasticity modulus of aluminum, spreading the load over more threads. They help prevent corrosion between aluminum and steel fasteners as well. Only problem I've had with them is backing out due to poor installation, or using too short of a screw, and pulling out the first few coils.
I learned about helicoils while working on jet skis back in the mid 2000s. The German operated shop had some pretty genius solutions to repairs, and jet skis plus salt water meant we had our hands full with bolts, threads and the failures from both. But one day when I thought we were totally out of luck, out came the helicoil kit and it blew my mind on how easy and solid the repairs were. I have recommended helicoil repairs multiple times over the years yet nobody seems to know that type of repair is an option, and that the average person can make a repair in minutes that would normally have to go to a machine shop. So as always, thank you for the fantastic video, but also, thanks for spreading the knowledge of these types of tools and how easy it can be to do this. Year after year, manufacturers make it harder and more complicated to repair your own items. Tools like this out the power back in our hands and keeps money in our pockets.
Well stated! UA-cam and manuals are my friend. I always try to fix most things myself.
So many people discount helicoils. Being highly corrosion resistant, inexpensive, and easy to install, they are my go to for jet skis and automotive thread repair 🤙🤙
i learned about helicoils in Auto shop back in the late 80's, i had stripped a thread on a Holley fuel bowl screw trying to tighten it to get it to quite leaking gas. the teacher showed me how to take the carb completely apart and put it in the drill press, line everything up and drill it for a helicoil. I have been using them ever since, and i still hate leaky Holley carbs to this day.
@@shadvan9494 lol. I have a Holley I just rebuilt for my 72 f100 and it leaked all over. Had a spare Edelbrock I tossed on her, but battery is dead do I don't know if that one leaks too lol
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing!
We really appreciate how you go directly in to the test with no promotions or favoritism, no nonsense just business.
Thank you for ALL the testing I went with the Heli Coil kit on my brembo calipers. So far the repairs have lasted very well with regular brake bleeding and nipple replacement every 12 months
47 different holes painstakingly drilled, tapped, cleaned. This is an insane amount of work, like all your other videos, to test these things. I'm off to patreon to thank you in other ways as well, but man... thank you for all this!
And he hand tapped. I'm going going send him a tapping for him drill.
Thanks so much!
Insane amount of work. wow.
Haha, it took me a month to work up the bother to go outside and fix one stripped thread on a car engine !
I appreciate this channel and work he is making for the videos but... Because of my work, once a while I mark and drill holes into aluminium. Some days can be 500 plus holes...
Thread inserts are not just for thread repair, they are installed all the time from factory in aluminum castings and other similar parts. I've made a lot of aerospace parts that have heli coils installed with traceability paperwork even.
Another thread repair that is done a lot in the field is to drill&tap , install a larger bolt, cut it off flush, loctite or tack weld or stake in place, then drill and tap the original size in the hole, sort of like build your own insert. If done well its a solid repair that you can do with just a tap and die set instead of having to go find the correct thread insert set. Also is great if the original hole is very damaged and so over sized so you can't just use and off the shelf inserts system.
That same idea is done in wood working with gluing in dowels to fix mistakes or fill in worn out screw holes. Any difference in strength is very minor as the wood glue is stronger than the woods used as long as you give the wood glue time to cure first.
I've done the oversized bolt trick many times in my little machine shop when i didn't have the right helicoil kit and it's always worked great and there's no waiting around for the right helicoil kit to arrive
I've been designing a light aircraft, and this has been an area of concern. The engine (85-90kg) is supposed to bolt to 4 points in an aluminium bulkhead/firewall. Which type of thread insert would you recommend, based on your experience?
Please feel free to be as specific as you wish.
Thank you in advance.
I have a 6.5 diesel block that was bought with starter hole problems. One hole is re drilled off center and oversized. Been thinking about having it welded to re drill. But now I think I'm going to try the oversize bolt trick and drill/tap it to OEM size and location. Thank you for the idea.
@@leoarc1061 they all work well, you just get a much larger bearing area for the same fastener.
My man! I love watching these. You’re the reason I got the vacuum I did. You’re the reason I use the specific penetrating oil, I love the work you put into these. You eliminate all the guessing games and anecdotal evidence normally needed to choose a product, especially the more high dollar ones. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I take my hat off to you. If anyone suggests your tests are not thorough or scientific then they’re on a different planet. You deserve a medal for this test. Very interesting results.
Thanks!
This man is an American treasure! Your work is unmeasurable sir. Your testing methods are very fair and therral. Thank you.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Not a title to be given, or taken, lightly! But you are correct.
Immeasurable
@@megaluckydog1212 you don't say, lol. Do share.
You know I used to think that I did "research" before I bought anything related to tools, power equipment, etc. etc. But you Sir take it to a whole other level! And for that, I Salute You Sir! Really appreciate and enjoy your videos! Good Luck and God Bless!
Thanks and you are welcome!
F
For my Jeep transmission Bolt which requires 10 to 12 inch pounds copper will work for me .
Project Farm is my absolute favorite channel for Improvement projects you are absolutely the man💯💪
I forgot to add because of project Farm a shop wanted to charge me $500 for a project and thanks to this man it cost me $38 and twenty-five minutes of my time.❤
Thanks! Thanks for sharing!
I came across these in like 2016 when I had been working in the heat on my bike doing a bunch of stuff for hours. Stripped the bolt and my world started to fall apart. Gave time sert a shot and it was the biggest relief. I always sing their praises. High quality kit that is still like new! I won’t make that mistake again so this actually got me to break it out and put it up for sale for the next person who has the same bad luck I did. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing.
As a former motorcycle mechanic, I preferred to use the Time-Sert thread repair in my workshop.
At that time the only competitor was the Heli-Coil inserts, which I had consistently not been impressed with.
I did use an epoxy/metal repair material called Metal-Set to build up a sheared portion of the casting on an engine which retained the clutch cable adjuster.
I wrapped a bolt in PTFE tape and after cleaning the repair area with brake cleaner, I built the Metal-Set around the bolt in situ.
Once cured, I unwound the bolt, filed the repair to match the original casting and refitted the clutch cable.
Despite shear load being present, that Metal-Set repair never failed.
The customer couldn't afford to have the repair carried out in the conventional way, and my method met his budget and worked perfectly (and was guaranteed by me).
From my experience, I regard the Time-Sert as the best of the type, I have never had one fail, and with the application of Copaslip never had one seize or corrode either!
I have very successfully used Araldite (Not Araldite Rapid!) to repair deep pitting corrosion in motorcycle front fork tubes.
After stripping the forks and thoroughly cleaning the pitted areas (it was extensive!) I filled in the holes with the mixed Araldite.
Once set, I sanded the repairs to the chromium surface of the forks, cleaned it and rebuilt the forks with new seals, oil and fork gaiters.
The owner couldn't afford to have the fork tubes re-chromed and my repair meant that the forks never again leaked and would pass the MOT Test, (I warranted the fork repair too).
These repair products are an invaluable aid in the workshop and when correctly applied will give permanent, high quality repairs.
Your tests are fantastic, and I have benefitted from your research and findings.
Time-Sert is 100% legit. Love the design.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I had to do multiple thread repairs on a Honda crankcase, not much material to work with. Heli Coils with their smaller diameter worked fine. An aviation technician told me that's all they use, and all OEM assemblies come with HC.
I've never used Time-Sert. I've also never had Heli-Coil fail on me, guess if they do I have a very expensive alternative now. :-D
I was impressed with the fork repair, I don't work on motorcycles. I know that some of the structural adhesives used in collision repair are very impressive. I'm kind of wondering how they'd work for thread repair now, just for giggles.
A properly installed heli-coil will ultimately outperform any other threaded insert, heli-coils are approved for use in aerospace while time-serts and others are specifically prohibited.
I wonder if the FAA, in conjunction with the entire aerospace industry, got together and used their combined experience with testing and engineering to evaluate the performance of threaded inserts.
I love this Channel for his realistic expiriments and the amount of thought and work that goes into the videos.
He also answers the comments.
Respect, keep up the work!
Wow, thank you!
He is the absolute best. I feel like he could approach a tool company/monopoly and SELL this information for a TON of money. He doesn't operate like that. He helps the common man with unbiased, video proof evidence with absolutely ZERO BS and filler, or "please like and sub and comment and raid shadow legends" etc.
You're the man dude! I tell all my family and my good friends about your channel. They always are somewhat uninterested because it is UA-cam but I say to give it a chance. They always are stunned how efficient and likable you are.
I'll speak for him on this...remember to like the video, let him make some more money from UA-cam.
This video came up after I had been looking for M14 x 1.5 thread chasers, sort of related, but once I started watching your video, I couldn't stop. Excellent, fast-paced presentation and I sure learned a lot. Thanks!
Thanks and you are welcome!
This is 100% the most informative video on UA-cam.
Im so glad i found this information!!!
Thanks so much!
As someone who has been turning a wrench (and stripping out threads) since I was a kid, and have used all of these products, this was awesome. Thank you again for your thoroughness and awesome videos!!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Something that I would like to see tested on this channel is sound deadening mat for automotive use. And also duplicolor has rubberized undercoating that claims to be sound insulating, I wonder if it would be comparable to different brands of mats.
I can answer that one from experience. Nope. It makes pretty close to zero difference
Thanks for the suggestion.
That’d be an awesome test, he could suspend a sheet of steel, bolt a transducer to one end (kind of like a plate reverb design), and then put a contact mic and an audio mic near the other end, apply a four foot square patch of each brand to the middle of the sheet, and measure what frequencies it deadens and by how much.
@@ProjectFarm If you ever do such a test, be sure to test for high temps and melting goo running out of doors. The brand I went with drips out of my doors years later and destroys my door seal no matter how many times I replace it. Huge mistake on my part.
Add 90# roll roofing to the sample list for siund deadenerst. I bet Professor Farm has som lying around.
As always....your work with doing all these different tests on the channel have proven to be priceless! Thank you so much! I try and watch all your test videos regardless if they pertain to what I'm looking for currently. In due time the knowledge will always come in handy. Keep up the great work brother!!! 👍
Thanks, will do!
These are interesting results, I wasn't surprised that insert repair kits were better. My company uses Helicoil and I have never seen a part come back to be re-repaired for thread damage. You do amazing work testing throughly and in the most controlled way I have seen on a UA-cam channel. Keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
One thing to note about helicoil style is that the are stackable, so you can use almost three for an engine head bolt !
Also to note, due to the new aluminium hole being larger, threads have more meat to bite into, so almost always repair will be stronger.
Thanks for the feedback.
Time serts are the best, but there are places only a helicoil will work.
Space to get into an area is always the tough part... even when lying on your back on the ground jobs need to get done.
torque test channel disagrees
I don't understand what's the point with these repair kits. You can just bore the hole bigger, make bigger thread and install a bigger bolt. Much easier than with repair kits.
Don't forget that the Helicoil, and the Time-sert and E-Z lok are all available in Stainless Steel and even mill spec stainless. They are also available in low profile (at least the Timesert) and Mil-spec.
Thanks for the feedback.
I had studs falling out of the head of an engine. Helicoil kit I bought was solid. It became an entirely different car once that giant boost leak was eliminated, also an entire new set of issues 😂
"Mil-Spec", i's a catch phrase that sounds good but actually means nothing unless you know what the spec says. Without actual certification it is just a con like "Aircraft Quality" aluminum.
@@deconteesawyer5758 correct. In the case of the inserts it is materials, certification tracing, and certain thread standards. Just letting folks know it IS available. In a past life, using spec certified hardware was important (for some reason, the military cares about it, particularly for flight hardware). We didn’t even allow non traceable stuff in the building.
@@CharlesGallo If I want some Mil-spec hardware or aircraft parts I will contact the Taliban. They are currently better equipped with with that than two thirds of UN forces, as they were recently gifted 90 billion dollars worth. If l want a reliable insert with good quality control, material specifications, thread form, and strength I will just get a commercial insert from a good brand name American company like Heli-Coil and rest assured that it's tensile strength exceeds my needs. They are Mil-spec suppliers and have a ton of Mil-specs listed on their website, so there is a good chance the product is already Mil-spec without my thinking about it or asking for that. And in addition even if for some reason the product I selected was not Mil-spec they have the advantage of being produced in a quality conscious environment much like what you described working at, and meet or exceed numerous other quality, material, and process certifications.
We can up that with NASA certified inserts, somehow important to space flight folks. I just want to make folks aware you CAN get those too.
Thanks for educating me on these products
You already know it, the work you do outclasses any other sort of review. Thanks for your service!
My old folding sawhorses just broke. I went to buy new ones and they make claims that don’t seem realistic. I’d love to see a comparison for which ones hold the most weight, resist rust, and especially resist swaying (that’s what killed mine). I look to your channel as the authority on these things now.
Good suggestion. What is better than my old black and decker workbench?
@@sbukosky build one yourself. Will have everything you need (cuz you built it) and will fit perfectly (cuz you built it) and will make you feel good (cuz you built it)
@@doctordumbass9425
Some people value their time
The best sawhorse is the one you build yourself.
Only you know what the sawhorse needs to sustain to be a valuable tool to you. I've never bought a sawhorse that could handle the pressure I put on too it with my foot to keep it stable. So I ended up reinforcing them myself
A 2x4 homemade sawhorse is the best because you can cut right through it
I appreciate the effort you put into these videos. I can’t even imagine how long this takes 👍
Thank you very much!
On average, it takes about a week.
@@markeymark5265 some of his test have lasted months for evaluation time
Pays very well per hr
@@safffff1000 You might be surprised.
This man is by far one of the most resourceful people on UA-cam. The Gandolf of DIY!
If we had one of him in every local DIY store like the old days, the world would be a better place. 👍
Thanks!
This man removes most of my trust issues! more power to you sir!
Years ago when you first started your channel, I left a comment "Really good guy, I wouldn't let him barrow my lawn mower " and you responded in a joyfully way. In the years Since then you have saved me easily enough money to buy a really nice lawnmower. So I will now Comment "Great guy, no BS and will save you Time and Money. If he ever needs a lawnmower I would just give it to him" Cheers!
Wow, thanks!
The thread repair I'm most proud of was in the nightmare scenario of a stainless steel reverse thread driving a nylon shaft that direct drove an auger that dispensed powdered chocolate and sugar in a coffee machine.
I found just the right thickness of steel wire (0.8mm if memory serves) and wound it around the steel thread to form it then tightened it a little and screwed it into the nylon part much like the thread repair kits shown here, it worked and lasted for the remaining years until that coffee machine was replaced.
Armchairhero : There are repairs that we dare not guarantee and whose reliability is sometimes surprising. :-)
Thanks for sharing!
live, die, modify
Ain't nothin' more permanent than a good temporary fix.
My favorite: A family friend (my wife's former student) was in college and her Honda Civic had a bolt strip (on the alternator bracket or tensioner) and each shop told her it was not repairable. Her parents were trying to convince her to purchase a new car which she could not afford. We were trying to convince her to repair the car and minimize debt. I ended up buying a time-sert kit and new bolt from the dealer and was able to repair it for her. She has since graduated and is an elementary school teacher, wife and mother. Her husband drives the little Civic as his commuter car and I can't help but smile every time I see that car or the time-sert kit in my tool box.
Just amazing how useful and informative this comparison is. So much work on your side, thank you for putting it together!
Thanks and you are welcome!
You put an amazing amount of effort into your product reviews & tests. Thank you.
Never get tired of the work you do, thanks!
Thank you very much!
Definitely. This guy’s channel is fantastic!!
Been using HeliCoil for thirty plus years on cars. Never had one fail.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks broi
I've seen them break a few times, depends how they're done.
Great job sir. I can't praise you enough for such a professional, interesting and thorough creation.
I had to drill out a snapped bolt myself last year. Luckily I was able to back it out with a bolt extractor and so the threads were ok. I thought I might be needing to do the helicoil thing but I had never seen one done before.
That was really entertaining as well. I have used JB Weld on occasions to strengthen inserts where the JB Weld shouldn't really be necessary so that was also great to see.
Thank you
Been watching this man for at least 6 years. You just keep getting better and better! You’re amazing and my opinions on anything are from you!
Thanks so much!
3:14 To figure out the size of the tap drill just subtract the tread pitch from the nominal bolt size. For example M6 × 1 needs 5mm tap drill. M8 × 1.25 needs 6.75 tap drill (round to 6.8)
Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you for doing this. As a mechanical engineer I have to applaud your excellent experimental design and your willingness to put all this effort into answering the question of which insert is best. I can see this video becoming everyone's go-to reference when this question pops up again from time to time.
Since you asked, here's some suggestions for improvement for future videos:
1. Since you have three values for each test, work out the standard deviation (you can use the stdev() function in Microsoft Excel) and use that value for the error bars in your chart columns. As a rule of thumb, if you see the error bars overlap with those of another column in the chart, then you can say that there's probably no statistically significant difference between the two (i.e. any difference is likely due to chance, not an inherent strength increase of the thing under test)
If one of the error bars is much bigger than the rest it means that test had much more variability and you might want to do more samples. The copper tests for example had huge variation between each reading, so the standard deviation (and hence error bars) on that would be huge, meaning the results should be taken with a pinch of salt. Of course that's an important result in itself - you can safely conclude that in the field, using a copper wire is a huge risk because you don't know how much strength you're going to get (as evidenced by the results being all over the place).
2. In cases where the bolt snapped, you're not actually testing the strength of the insert (obviously) so to be fair, you shouldn't report that value and rank the inserts by that value - in reality you should just write "bolt snapped", and tie all those inserts in first place in the rankings. But obviously this is a UA-cam video not a scientific paper, so we all understand that there's no need to be 100% rigorous about this.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestions.
I noticed that those bolts broke. That means next time use a stronger bolt. A broken bolt means the test for that product is incomplete because you aren't supposed to be testing bolt strength.
@@leewilkerson8185 So what if he goes with grade 8 bolts and they break? Or the inserts pull the aluminum threads out with them? We could do this forever, and eventually he’s spending a lot of money testing exotic metals to find out the best way to repair damaged aluminum threads. Best way is when possible just chase the threads with a tap and be done with it.
@@308dad8, why don't you use a thread chaser next time you lose the threads from a spark plug blowout and then report the result!
@@leewilkerson8185 The thing about Project Farm is that he performs experiments and reports results in an operationally representative manner. For most people, the difference in strength between the inserts is irrelevant. The question is just, given typical loads and materials, will this insert hold up better and give more consistent results than glue or nothing at all? The answer was a resounding yes. If the insert is so strong that your typical bolt will break before the insert does, that's all we need to know.
Another great evaluation so I just bought a Helicoil kit to fix a stripped out bus bar in an electric panel. I felt this was the best choice since the repair needs to provide a zero resistance connection between the breaker and the bus bar, and the Helicoil/HHIP solution provides a metal to metal fit. I did think about just tapping out to the next size up but figured this might cause problems for future adds/changes in the panel. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks!
The attention to detail, the fortitude to complete the laborious tasks for your videos sets the bar high, a unique channel a great host and old fashioned honest programming, the pleasure is all on the side of the screen . Well done sir, well done !
Thanks so much!
Your dedication to bringing this valuable information is impressive. Thank you for your reviews. You have saved me and many others a lot of time, hassle and money.
I appreciate that!
Just watched both your video and the one from Torque Test Channel and fully appreciate both data sets. The fact that you both posted at the same time and had similar results from different approaches and products was pretty fantastic to be honest. Keep up the amazing work!
Thanks, will do!
I stopped watching the ttc when he got hired by a tool seller. The fact PF won’t even allow the appearance of impropriety keeps me subscribed.
Torque test channel is AMAZING too. Love both the channels.
@@rydplrs71 that won’t influence the results they produce
@@rydplrs71 do you know what they do in order to prevent contaminated data?
I don't know if I'm more impressed with the attention to detail or the amount of information you manage to convey in a meaningful way in such a short space of time. Cheers.
Thanks!
Very interesting to see how the helicoils held up. I've used them a few times to make repairs on the transmissions bells for starter motors.
Thanks for sharing.
This was one of my favorite tests. I would love to see this done again with stronger bolts, and maybe also ones made for sparkplugs. The added heat would be an interesting factor.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I second this!
@@ProjectFarm I'd be interested to see how well something bigger like m16, m20 or even m24 would hold up with high tensile 8.8 or 10.9 bolts
Or engine head/brake caliper
Yes! The one time I had to do this was for a spark plug. I used a metal insert, but to lock it, you tapped the top with a provided punch to stretch the top and lock it into place. This was an extremely interesting vid for me!
I use heli coils at work nearly on a daily basis. it's amazing how many are in aircraft parts. seeing how well they hold up makes me not feel so bad when I have to repair a cnc machine with it now.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes, they last well there, and as a bonus the connection is always stronger than the parent thread.
@@ProjectFarm best wire splice connectors would be a good comparison video.
@@SeanBZA If the parent thread is an aluminium alloy. If the parent thread is some higher end nut like 12.9 grade, I doubt a helicoil is comparable.
@@jpikl1284 Still will hold out, as the larger diameter thread into the parent metal resists the pull, plus it is spread out over a larger area of the very hard wire.12.9 grade yes it will still rip out, but at a much higher load, and you can always use a much longer insert or multiple inserts, as I have done on deep holes.
Thank you very much for the independent, thorough, and precise review. I have to admit I didn’t expect some of these results so thank you for doing the TON OF WORK and spending A LOT of money to do these experiments and for sharing the information you found out. We really appreciate it and I have learned and reevaluated some things because of your work that will help me. Genuine appreciation
Thanks and you are welcome!
I watched once just for fun. And then again for a specific use case. I appreciate all the tests.
Thanks!
I was especially interested in this one. It was very insightful. An interesting thing about the inserts is that they are very often used in parts from the very beginning, especially in softer materials because the insert allows for better holding power with that size bolt than you'd get from that bolt being threaded directly into the softer material. I think your average person will have never heard of helicoils or other similar inserts. Boy are they useful at home in the garage. Thanks for the video!
Not only better holding power, but also better durability if it's something that's threaded in and out regularly.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
well for aluminum bronze inserts are harder and you have also corrosion resistance. I was thinking he was going to test it on mild steel with 10,9 bolts, with that setup its only interesting with the chemical repair
@@scasny Well having tested Helicoil in aluminium i have broken M6 12.9 bolts.
Can not say much about the other brands though.
Exactly. My edelbrock victor jr aluminum heads, for a small block Chevy have helicoils installed from the factory. (rocker stud holes, and exhaust Manifold holes)
I always use Heli Coil kit, I have never had one fail after 15 years of building Motorcycle motors. After all, it is standard practice in building airplane engines.
Great feedback on the Heli Coil kit. Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm My cheapest ones were actually US standard sizes, they had not moved off the shelves for 40 years, since the country went metric, so were finally on sale, for only double of the price in 1970, so I picked all of them they had up. Only 3 sets, but covered all the US standard sizes I used on US built machinery, 1/4, 5/8 and 7/16 standard thread. Also got the 7/16 die nut, so I could make the shear pins that used that thread, instead of ordering them, at a ruinous price. 1metre of 12mm stainless steel hex stock made a large number of those shear pins for use. Machining the pins, plus the tooling, came to the cost of only 1 pin, and I got over 20 of them, with bar left over.
Thank you for sharing your experience and testing of all types of products. All the work and time put into these tests is greatly appreciated.
You are welcome!
This is the perfect example of a real UA-camr. Great information great video 100%. And on top of everything information is a hundred percent accurate and was very helpful
Thanks and you are welcome!
In doing the timing belt project on my VW diesel, I discovered a prior mechanic had stripped one of three belt tensioner bolts. It was the one common to the aluminum coolant jacket. After some research, I chose TimeSert, called them explaining the situation. They didn't have one with such a shallow thread depth, but suggested I could customize it. I told him, no problem, and please overnight it. They were very helpful. That was about 8 yrs ago. Great product!
Thanks for sharing!
would be very interesting to see this done with grade 8 bolts. appears that all of the inserts held equally with a hardened bolt should be able to see the inserts pull out of the aluminum and in theory the bigger inserts in diam should hold better
Look for a channel called "torque test channel" and watch their thread repair video it has batter information they didn't use aluminum so they had some thread repairs actually fail
You should watch the latest video from Torque test channel. They test these inserts with high grade studs and cast iron
@@juststuff4381 yea I saw that after I commented. But would still be interesting to see it. Most of the time when im doing heli coils it's in alum housings on engines. Very common for some jack azz go get over zealous tightening bolts with a impact and pull threads
The diameter is certainly important, but a second factor is that the pricier ones have one-piece designs so they won't 'uncoil' out of the hole if things get ugly. Far better repair for something that is going to be removed at least occasionally, but more money.
Im a machinist and at my work we used to use the helicoil ones, but switched to the ez lock ones. They hold up much better for bolts that are removed repeatedly. Most of our fixtures are aluminum and threads don't last long with repeated use.
I’ve always been a huge fan of EZ Lok. I’ve tried all the “at home/diy” thread repair methods and none have them have worked for me so I gave in and bought a thread repair kit and the first one I bought is now the only one I use and trust.
Thanks for sharing!
AWESOME JOB! As Always! Man that was a lot of work. Thank you for such a great job!!!
Excellent subject and video! Years ago when Helicoil was pretty much the only option, a lot of airframes and engines were built using the Helicoils. I built 2 stroke racing engines back in the 70s adapting pieces to the blocks, jugs and heads and used helicoils for doing so. Pretty much can guarantee that those if they haven’t been recycled are still holding. I have a few 1950s-1960s Ford Y Block engines sitting in the hangar on the family farm and because of two of the head bolts on them being close to the same length but not quite, a lot of those engines when rebuilt would have the wrong bolts used on the heads and they would strip out the threads in the blocks. I like the Time Sert and intend to purchase the kit for those size threads. I like the chamfer of those.
Thank You for publishing your videos!
Thanks and you are welcome!
The thing to remember is that Helicoil and HHIP are spiral wound where Time-Sert and E-Z Lock are soild. The spiral wound inserts can leak fluids due to the minute spiral gap, especially with thinner fluids under pressure. For this I recommend the solid inserts. In fact, I think you can get Time-Serts with a closed bottom for this very reason
Thanks for the feedback.
The thread shouldn't be sealing anything anyway
For something like a drain bolt, you just need a flush surface and a large enough crush washer. Or a Dowty seal, which is a steel washer with a O-ring inside.
I agree, i gasket should take care of sealing. The repaired thread should take care of evenly distributing load over a gasket face.
EZ Lock is also not regarded as gas tight unlike Time Sert which is regarded as gas tight thanks to the insert being expanded when it is fitted. The biggest disadvantage of EZ Lock, Helicoil and HHIP is that they tend to unseat themselves in applications which require frequent disassembly (maintenance covers, spark plugs or sump drain plugs). EZ Lock is worst in this regard especially in assemblies which experience considerable heat cycling and can be slightly improved upon if it is fitted using thread locking compound which both secures the insert and gas tightens the thread. A further disadvantage of EZ Lock is its size. I work on motorcycles and in many cases there is not enough space to fit an EZ Lock. From 25 years of experience with hundreds of Time Sert repairs I'd say the system is absolutely worth the money and the repair will not fail as long as it's executed correctly..
You are the best! And I really appreciate your tapping fluid comparison.
Best explanation and testing I've seen on thread repairs yet. Thank you so much, this was very helpful.
Thanks and you are welcome!
One thing to keep in mind with thread inserts is galvanic corrosion. For example, carbon steel inserts in a brass piece may experience extremely rapid galvanic corrosion if exposed to water, especially salt water. Make sure to check that both materials are relatively near each other on a galvanic activity chart.
Yes, this is the real concern with thread inserts.
Thanks for the feedback.
Indeed one of the concerns. Like in some applications with water pump installations, standard steel bolts are used. Eventually pieces weld together. Timesert makes inserts in stainless steel. Probably a better choice for aluminum.
The amount of suffering you put on yourself drilling and treadimg so many must be draining! Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Agree. Have you seen his test on scissors? That one gave me carpal tunnel.
That was a lot of work and dedication! Thank you!!!
You are welcome!
Man, that was an awesome video. Quick and to the point, very detailed and answered a lot of questions. Thanks for that!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I literally just fixed my mower transmission support bracket with a coil repair. Can't wait to watch this!
Great product choice!
This is so appreciated. I stipped out a motor mount bolt hole on my S2000’s aluminum engine block 💀 and now I know which thread insert to use. Thank you thank you!!!❤️
You are welcome! Glad I could help!
I really like the idea of the time-sert & ez-lok ones. Most of the times we've used heli-coils is for repairing spark plug holes on cylinder heads, and having to try and punch the tab off without losing it in the engine is a pain.
Thanks for the feedback.
out of all the stupid threads I've been chasing and cleaning out. Had to make a few new ones. I literally yesterday realized most of my taps say the drill bit size on them. it has the size first then the last line says "drill size". that would have been nice to notice a LONG time ago lol. These videos always go over the top test wise and I love watching them. So many things you have wondered about and sure enough a full length breakdown of it.
Thanks!
One other way threads can be stripped out is to use an incorrect metal, or substandard quality metal in a given application. For example, Ford Triton V8 engines (as in the Crown Victoria and others) used aluminum cylinder heads, and over tightened the plugs at the factory. The constant stress on the threads made Triton engines notorious for blowing out spark plugs due to stripped threads. I wish I'd had your video years back when I had to fix my ex sister-in-law's Crown Vic.
Can confirm I've got a 5.4 in an F250 and lost some studdage, on the exhaust manifold.
That's something that just shouldn't happen ever.
Another reason for this on the Triton is that the wall around the combustion chamber is thin, so the length of threads is too short for aluminum. It's more like what you should have for an iron head.
Blew 2 spark plugs on my 2003 Cobra (4.6 liter engine). Used the time-sert one time and heli-coli the other. Both held up.
Those engines were notorious for blowing plugs.
I blew a plug thread on the barra, helicoiled and back to driving 1000km a week. Built Ford tough!
01 f150 with the older 5.4 blew out the front 3 on the passenger side mechanic put the helicoils in no more problems (kinda waiting on #4) but she has over 350 thousand on her! a great products made her run a lot longer!!!
One really important advantage about the timecert is that it does not have a tab that needs to be punched off. It's also the least messy method if you are concerned about shards of metal falling down into the hole you are working on. Just pack some grease on the bits to capture metal shards.
I used timecerts to repair the spark plug threads on my BMW's head. It was the only method where I could keep a glob of grease on the tools, and capture 99% of all metal shards, and do all the drilling by hand. The resulting hole is also much larger than what you drill with a helicoil, so it was easier to get a shop vac extension into the hole to suck up any stray metal shards.
Same here. I have used the time-sert set for several spark plug holes in aluminum heads over the years. It can be done without removing the head, and without any extra tools. I have done several small outboard motors this way. Time-serts are really great.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@tdc7 the glob of grease to catch the pieces is probably what he ment
@@tdc7 Tapping isn't the messy part, since taps hold grease really well to trap shards. You aren't removing very much material when tapping anyway.
It's the hole boring part that is messiest. The Timecert that is large enough for a spark plug comes with a hollow boring tool, which holds grease extremely well.
That boring tool is also really easy to use with hand strength. A typical spiral drill bit you use for helicoils is really hard to turn by hand. You want to drill by hand, since that keeps shards from flying and keeps the grease from being flung from the bit.
The Timesert boring tool also aligned itself perfectly with the stripped hole. You would insert a pin into the stripped hole, then the boring tool would slide onto the pin to keep it perfectly aligned. This further helped with keeping shards out of the engine.
You can stop shards/swarf ofalling into the engine if you turn the engine to a position where the exhaust valve or port is open on the cylinder you are working on, and connect an air blower to the exhaust pipe.
You have put a lot of efforts in doing the experiment, really appreciated. I can truly understand that it is not easy to invest soo much time & efforts in doing such in-depth review. Great work man. Thanks a ton.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I used an helicoil on an engine block (where the head bolt on, so heavy torque)and the engine is still going strong
Thanks for the feedback.
@@ProjectFarm I had to use helicoil for a timing belt idler on my subaru engine block and I've had zero issues. I can safely recommend it for moderate load applications
If you do a part 2 to this, try some Keenserts. They are by far the strongest and most permanent way to fix a threaded hole.
As a machinist I've had to use them on applications that are heavy duty and can not have the insert vibrate out (other inserts types like helicoils can vibrate out).
Thanks for the suggestion.
One of the inserts operated in the same manner, didn't it? With tabs that had to be pushed down to lock it in...I can't remember which one though.
That is extremely interesting that ez lock gave so much more support to the bolt that it broke with almost 300 more in lb. You would think a sheared bolt was a sheared bolt but this test proves something. I'm guessing it's that flange so the bolt has to break right at the head which would explain the 200 inlb difference between the others that is wild!
Thanks for the feedback.
TBF it shows the tests aren't so consistent. It would be much better if he used a longer flange and a steel washer because the aluminium got all mangled up and caused friction...
It would be interesting to repeat the test with a high strength bolt, as well as a washer to protect the surface of the aluminum.
If it’s statistically different it has to do with a variable thread pitch. On a straight threaded hole and bolt only 1.5 wraps of thread hold the entire load. If the insert stretches it could possibly spread the load further.
The head or the top of the threads on a partially threaded bolt are where stress concentrates to cause failure.
The fact that the grade 5 bolt broke says they will meet your needs.
I'm not sure how to interpret that. I think ultimately they should have been tested with some sort of washer and bearing surface to reduce the influence of the insert 'biting' the bottom of the bolt head - almost certainly the reason for the increased torque on the EZ lock.
It may have tested be higher, but I don't think it's a benefit either way in a real world scenario.
So glad to see you test my thread repair suggestion!
A great job and very interesting, I’ve changed my mind as to which thread repair method is the best!
Thank you👍
Thanks for suggesting this video idea. Thanks and you are welcome!
I'm glad I found this video. It will help I'm my decision about a problem I created. I installed a new high pressure oil pump on my 2002 7.3 and overtightened one fitting. An oil pressure line. The hpop is aluminum and produces pressures up to 2,500 pounds. "Oil inside the lines" It was only supposed to be torqued to 25 ft lbs but I over did it.
Thanks for the feedback.
The one big advantage the Timesert has is that it flares at the bottom and won't back out. I quit repairing stripped spark plug holes with Heli-coils and went to Timeserts for this reason. Every time I would change plugs, I'd have to use another heli-coil or remove it from the old spark plug and screw it onto the new one.
If a heli coil is set properly (at least 1/2 turn below surface) it won't back out... I've done dozens working in bike shops, and always had better results with heli coils than time-serts.
People forget to set the insert as described in the instructions.
I've always used "Heli-Coil" inserts, from way back in 1964 to repair a blown out spark plug to the present. I have, by now, a fairly complete set of both SAE and metric kits. The spark plug kit cost me ~$50 to fix a car I just bought for $750. One advantage of the "Heli-Coil" is multiple insert lengths.
Thanks for the feedback.
I use time serts after I owned a North Star engine that stripped out almost all the head studs. They multiple lengths also. Not sure about the other brands though. I always red locktite my solid inserts also.
@@soullesssol7285 i never trust that 'no thread locker needed' and use some, anyway.....never had one fail yet.
An old tymer taught me a trick with jb weld.
Wrap your bolt lightly with Teflon tape and put a dab of JB weld in the hole.
Come back a couple days later and remove the bolt. I did this to a small block exhaust stud on the head and was able to torque it to spec.
I learned about helicoils in 04 in diesel shop when I was 14. The kit my teacher had he said was thousands. Glad to see they've come down in price. Great video!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Years ago my Brother and I did a similar test. He swore by TimeSerts and I said they were no better than HeliCoil. It took a lot of broken bolts and a fair amount of cussing, but we came away with the same results you did. No one steel thread repair was any better than another. Some were cheaper, some easier to install and some kits we're more complete than others, but once installed they were all equal.
Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff! I use E-Z LOK almost exclusively. I always thought Time-Sert were the best, but after seeing this, I'll stay with E-Z LOK. Time-Sert forces you to use their taps and those taps are really rare/hard to find. E-Z LOK is a better deal for cost. Decades ago I started with Heli Coil, but found they gall if you use the threads repeatedly. And...they are very hard to remove and do again as they tend to unravel/break. E-Z LOK has a full range of inserts and even for wood products. They have thin-wall metal inserts too which really come in handy sometimes.
Thanks for the feedback.
It's funny you bring up wood products, that's how I started using E-Z Lok in the first place after some generic wood inserts started pulling away after a few years on a table I built.
@@emotionz3 Yeah and I've never used the wood ones, but they looked amazing. Glad to know they work!
Good insight there. I think they’re all good, but I can see helicoil possibly to get damaged or even undone.
makes sense, i wonder if the helicoil kit was Stainless. Did not corrode, and tends to gall. Sounds line SS to me
I liked how you got down to the business of the evaluation and was objective. Funny thing was i found the testing kept me in suspense and was entertained. Great work.
Thanks!
Fantastic video, as is all of your content, I use Heli-coil repair inserts all of the time as a workshop technician/ foreman. Besides doing my own work i have to help the apprentices/other techs when they snap bolts and strip threads (which is all too often and nearly always in a tight spot to repair), I'm a dab hand with a drill and metal work so i am always called over for help, and this video proves there's no substitute for a proper repair, I have never had a Heli-coil fail or not work at a specific job. I don't doubt the preparation for this video took many many hours😳, your dedication is unreal, thankyou👍
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I used helicoil a while back on an aluminum engine, and suspected the connection was stronger with it than without.
This test supports that idea!
Also, it's very cool to see tests for torque AND straight pull out.
Thanks for the feedback.
Just when I need to buy something, Todd comes good again with a totally unbiased, impartial test. Thank you so much for saving me time and money, and also thanks for saving me from making a worse job of an important restoration project. 👍
Thank you!
Great video as usual. Thanks for making it. Always a pleasure watching good scientific method and no extra bs
Thanks!
I really like how you started the tap using the drill press!! What a great idea, thanks I learned something this morning!
Thanks! Glad to hear!
Had a cousin who was building an aluminum frame section for a custom trailer to tow behind his ATV. Most joints had though-bolts with proper nuts on the other side, but some parts had clearance issues and he opted to tap the aluminum. Referencing an old custom motorcycle show I'd seen, I mentioned that pre-installing inserts for the tapped holes would be more reliable. He argued that it didn't make sense, and adding inserts would just introduce another potential point of failure. Not wanting to be THAT guy, I conceded.
Saw him a year or so later at a cook-out where he brought supplies with the ATV and trailer. Since I never saw the finished trailer, I wanted to check it out. He showed me the dump function, and I noticed the inserts clearly visible on the back side of the aluminum frame. The "I told you so" I kept to myself. It was a really cool little trailer that worked for carrying mulch or a few bags of sand or concrete... or a couple of cases of beer and hotdogs.
Good to see some actual test proof instead of relying on anecdotal advice from a 20 year old show I saw once.
Thanks for sharing.
Im probably wrong but I think the inserts are usually stronger when they're in aluminum, because now the bolt is pulling on 2 sets of threads which are now in double shear, along with the steel insert being stronger than the aluminum. Makes sense but it's hard to wrap your head around because it's still just a bolt in the same material, kinda counter intuitive
@@MegaDysart I was under the impression the inserts are stronger as the thread in the aluminum is bigger. Like up to 3mm bigger. This means that the threads they sit on have a higher circumfrence and by that also higher surface area and more material to sit on.
@@MegaDysart I thought it didn't make sense because the thread of inserts are only slightly bigger. But then i saw this part of the video 10:45 where he shows that when the bolt is not turned then the aluminium thread itself is strong enough to even break the steel bolt instead of stripping thread. So i think maybe it's because when you turn the bolt and there is no more way to go, then the sharp edges of the steel bolt will start cutting the softer aluminium?
@@XXLcze strength of bolt basicly it is squared to cuped, of diameter of threads. 13^(2.5)/(10)^(2.5) = 2.2ish, so 3mm can double the strength.
I think it really depends on the application. I've used heli coils for non critical applications but tend to use time-sert on more critical applications such as brake calipers. Or head bolts. Also, if the bolt is going to be in and out a lot I like time-serts for that application. To note, Time-Sert also has another product call "Big-Sert" which are used to repair failed thread repairs. So if you drill out for a heli coil and the heli coil fails, you still have the option for repair. Again, great video my friend.
Head over to the Torque Test Channel for the ugly truth about Time-Sert. Spoiler it's not the best.
@@1pcfred I'll check it out. Thanks.
@@JordieG8 bottom line is they all work. But if you want to spend more then Time-Sert is the leader there.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@1pcfred Indo find they're far more durable in brake calipers than heli coils.
Still one of my favorite YT channels! I'm contemplating repairing an almost stripped out spark plug on an old tractor/trencher.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Hugely useful! A very thorough and time consuming task - massively appreciated!
Thanks so much!