Thanks for the helpful video, but especially thank you for not wasting my time by talking too much! Love that you get right to the repair :) Good stuff!
And repetition, repetition, repetition! When I first started learning paint correction last year, it would take me six hours for a job that now takes me roughly three.
You make it look so easy. I like the idea of using the cheese grater before the filler goes right off, thanks for the tip. Nice video without any waffle.
Another great video. Thanks!! Anyone have any idea where I could get a stud pulling tip like that for my slide hammer? I've looked all over but no luck.
Thanks HP - I do care about the work but not near Chicago - up in northern MI. At this time I just make videos though as I am in a residential neighborhood :)
This was a great video to watch instead of the goofy one before this. Guy spent 5 minutes talking about "Y2K throwaway cars" lmao. Good video, thumbs up
I use lacquer primer for a few reasons - It works just fine, dries very fast, sands easily, cheap, it's not 2 part so you can throw the unused portion from your cup back into the can. 2 part primers may be a bit better but for 1/2 century that's all there was and body shops did great paint work.
buy yourself a cheap small 130 amp or so mig welder with flux cored wire so you dont need gas bottles . you will be able to fix so many things after that . you can spot weld the studs to the job
I am trying to find an attachment for my hammer. THe kind that grips a screw head. I got one off Amazon but it is no good. Where can I get one? DO you know? Thanks for video.
They make bigger ones and I think they would work. You might have to use something heavier to pull from. Maybe weld a shim or bolt in place to pull on :)
Hey just wondering would you usually prime the bare metal before applying filler? I have some repairs like this to do and was wondering the correct order
@@LakesideAutobody good to hear . I knew this video is three years old . Was just wondering how it has held up the past three years . I may look into buying one then .
I know thats called a slide hammer, but what is the end part that holds the stud part called? Im looking for a similar slide hammer thing but I just keep finding ones with hooks on the end instead of the thing that holds the stud thats welded on.
That came with the slide hammer and the slide hammer came with the stud welder from Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html
Thanks for the demonstration Lakeside. Just a quick question. On a bigger dent would you start from the out side and make your way in? or would you start in the center? Also, watching some other guys do this has got me confused a little about tapping down the highs while pulling up. Are you aiming to tap down to the panels original height? Or a little further? It looks like some guys are tapping kinda aggressively almost to create a dent??? I mean, if the metal has been stretched its about the best we can do right?
I am 100% AMATURE, meaning I never have done any body work, but I still have my 97 K1500 Xtd-cab from new which is starting to show issues. Priced to fix cab corner and rocker panel rot plus few dents and a repaint, was quoted at approx. 9500-10K. But afterwards Ill still have a $3500 truck.So I'm really determined to start repairs myself. Your videos are just what I need.I'm sure I wont do a professional job, but I really want to learn this stuff, and I'm sure I'll do OK.Ill buy things as I go from eastwood (about 2 hr drive). But any brand tools your recommend along the way let us know what they are.Appreciate and love the videos.Wish you were closer, I'd pay for training.
I wish I was closer too. Please feel free to ask any ?s you have - even if you think they are too easy or silly. I'll walk you through it from step one till the end. Also, if there is a topic that you would like to see just ask or comment on any video - I usually answer comments every day. Good luck. Jerry
Wow! Because I have no expertise with refinishing and repainting, I was cringing the entire time I you were using the cheese grater and the entire time you were using the sanding block. All of my life experience instinct says "NO! SCRAPING METAL AND ROCKS OVER A PAINTED SURFACE IS WRONG!" I realized that my reaction was almost exactly the same as when I watch surgery videos on the internet (or, like today, when I watched the ultrasound while a doctor gave me a cortisone shot in the shoulder this morning). AIEEE!!! :-)
This is a nice video. I have a dent with a crack on the driver side door. First time doing this but will try to fix this using harbor freight crossbar dent remover. One question I have is, why wasn't the car painted red at the end of the video? Also I purchased several grits(1000,3000,5000, etc) do you recommend I start on the lower end? Thanks.
I borrow the damaged panels from a local scrap yard. To buy matching paint is too expensive - I would love to but..... As for the grit - If you're working with bondo start with 40 and finish with 80. If you are prepping for paint use anything from 220 to 400. If you are buffing out paint use anything from 800-1500. Good luck - ask ?'s if you need to. Jerry
I saw many videos, but really still couldn’t get, because after sanding with 40 or 80 you still have deep scratches then how can primer hide that, I tried many time but couldn’t and then I sand with 240 or 400 🤔
Finish your filler with 80 grit, prime with "primer surfacer" - filler primer, block sand with 120, prime again, finish sand with DA (240-320) or by hand 320/400, paint
@@N-one123 You can prime over the 80 grit scratches - then when you sand with a finer grit, that primer fills or smooths out the rougher scratches - hope that makes sense to you my friend :)
Hey jerry I need to do bodywork on my 1997 Chevy Astro van it’s a dent right on the driver side corner panel I have a slide hammer is there anyway to go about it after I finish pulling the dent should bondo the hole and repaint any suggestions greatly appreciated thanks
The hole doesn't have to be welded as long as it is knocked down a bit then filled. In other words, you don't want a hole with just primer and paint over it. Don't pull it too hard from one spot to create a peak. Knock all the high spots down, fill it, prime and paint - good luck - Happy New Year.
In this day and age a good body man wouldnt think of drilling a hole in a panel the highstrength sheet metal is too thin in the days of when cars used 18 gage sheet metal and slide hammers they use a sharp pointed punch to pierce the metal this pushed the metal in then then the slide hammer and screw had reenforcment to pull the dent out. The idea of using filler to cover holes is not a propper way. moistuer can get in and cause rust damage to the panel you are repairing. The stud welder came on the seen about 25 yrs.ago this is a very good way when you cant get a hamner and dolly to renove the dent. To the stud welder you saw in the vido sold at harbor freight is very cheap . This is for infromation people can do body work any they can by any means they can.
@@waynejohnson7134 doesn't it matter how good the repair needs to be? Show work vs daily driver? A tiny hole should be fine when filled with filler as long as it's not in an area that moisture can accumulate, right? Admittedly, I'm a noob who aspires to learn bodywork and I'm just trying to take out some fender dents for practice on an e30 until I can have it restored properly (or am capable of doing it myself someday). Thanks!
You could, but as long as that hole is left a little low, I would just grind the area and fill it with body filler. Many would scoff at that but I assure you if it is not on the bottom of the panel (where there is moisture) you'll be fine
Biggest problem with these stud type dent pullers is the cheap eccentric wheel in the slide hammer only lasts a short while before the serrations disappear meaning it will no longer grip the stud. This makes it USELESS. Have not been able to find replacement wheels anywhere.
I had the harbor freight stud gun and had nothing but problems with it. The slide hammer was of pretty poor quality too. In fact, my stud gun took a dump so I got a replacement and the wheel in the slide hammer was put in backwards! Junk. Bought a good stud gun, been using ever since. The new one came with a slide hammer that doesn’t have a wheel type locking mechanism but rather a twisting mechanism that seems to work pretty awesome.
@@christrainor1129 I'm actually not that happy with HF lately. Every time I go, the coupon doesn't count or they are out of the "deal" that I went there for.
Lakeside Autobody I still have love for Harbor Freight. Certain tools are better than others. I’ve noticed that they discontinue items from time to time and replace them with better versions. Anyway, my secret weapon from HF is an all in one hot air plastic welder. It was like 60 bucks and it’s made me thousands! Lmao.
Lakeside Autobody I think videos that emphasize the fundamentals behind the repair would be best. Longer more complicated videos can emphasize more principles all in one. However, If you break the the big jobs down to several shorter videos with focus then points or instructions are easier to search and find the video covering a specific topic. You also make more videos and may earn more money if monetized.
Here's that panel being painted - ua-cam.com/video/h9ujQLDhckg/v-deo.html - borrowed it from the junk yard to make the vid so I painted it with what I had :)
Good listening skills... I didn't mention that I hit that filler with the DA to remove the 40 grit scratches. You'll always finish your filler with 80 grit or even finer if you prefer :)
Thanks for the helpful video, but especially thank you for not wasting my time by talking too much! Love that you get right to the repair :) Good stuff!
You're welcome and thank you for the positive support - have a good week :)
Man I spent a day to do this and this guy probably did it in 20 min. Knowledge and the right tool!
And repetition, repetition, repetition!
When I first started learning paint correction last year, it would take me six hours for a job that now takes me roughly three.
It could of been done slightly faster if he used less filler and applied it better not knocking him down the work was great
This was a great demonstration. Not all over the place and simple directions.
A very good step by step video! I have more knowledge now than before I started watching. Thanks.
You're welcome U Mark - thanks for watching :)
You make it look so easy. I like the idea of using the cheese grater before the filler goes right off, thanks for the tip. Nice video without any waffle.
The grater saves you from breathing a lot of sanding dust too :) Glad you liked the video my friend - you're welcome 👍
Jerry, I think you make the best videos on body repairs! Thanks!!
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it. Hope I can continue to make ones you like. JV
I don’t know why, this video was satisfying to watch. Especially the cheese grating part ☺️ Great job!
Thanks Miette - have a great week :)
Great job....you are a pro and thanks so much for sharing your lifelong skills with the world.
You're very welcome - thanks for the support - great to hear :)
Another great video. Thanks!!
Anyone have any idea where I could get a stud pulling tip like that for my slide hammer? I've looked all over but no luck.
Ebay, amazon, TPTOOLS, Harbor Freight? This will work on everyting - Astro Pneumatic Tool 78415 Locking Pliers Slide Hammer Puller,Silver
This looked clean and like you cared about your work. If you're anywhere near Chicago, I'd like to bring my car in.
Thanks HP - I do care about the work but not near Chicago - up in northern MI. At this time I just make videos though as I am in a residential neighborhood :)
Great video jery short and simple
I like how you explained. You have a new sub here
Thanks - glad you subscribed. Have a good weekend :)
This was a great video to watch instead of the goofy one before this. Guy spent 5 minutes talking about "Y2K throwaway cars" lmao. Good video, thumbs up
Thanks Michael - have a good Thanksgiving 🍗🥧😊
I have dents on 2015 ram 1500 I tried the suction cups I have a slide hammer dent puller but it's the screenw in kind
I just bought a slide hammer for dent pulling. No stud welder though. I’m curious what primer you used?
I use lacquer primer for a few reasons - It works just fine, dries very fast, sands easily, cheap, it's not 2 part so you can throw the unused portion from your cup back into the can. 2 part primers may be a bit better but for 1/2 century that's all there was and body shops did great paint work.
What do you use for clearcoat?
buy yourself a cheap small 130 amp or so mig welder with flux cored wire so you dont need gas bottles . you will be able to fix so many things after that . you can spot weld the studs to the job
Another great video
Good work and a great simple video.
Thanks, glad you liked it:)
Very informative and concise - thank you.
Glad it was helpful - you're welcome:)
Always good to learn something new....
I am trying to find an attachment for my hammer. THe kind that grips a screw head. I got one off Amazon but it is no good. Where can I get one? DO you know? Thanks for video.
Maybe Eastwood or Harbor Freight ? Glad you liked the video - you're welcome :)
Would a slide hammer work on heavier gauge metal, like a bumper?
They make bigger ones and I think they would work. You might have to use something heavier to pull from. Maybe weld a shim or bolt in place to pull on :)
Very educational, thank you
You're welcome :)
Hey just wondering would you usually prime the bare metal before applying filler? I have some repairs like this to do and was wondering the correct order
Here's a video that may help you decide what's right for you :)
Did you put the Hardener in your bondo?
Yes - it's blue hardener so it doesn't turn out pinkish/red like most are used to :)
How good has the harbor freight stud welder held up ?
So far - no problems at all. Works the way it should. 👍
@@LakesideAutobody good to hear . I knew this video is three years old . Was just wondering how it has held up the past three years . I may look into buying one then .
A mazing result! If with the primer only (as paint) looks like that, wow, you're an impressive body shop professional! Where are you located?
Thanks - I live in northern Michigan
I know thats called a slide hammer, but what is the end part that holds the stud part called? Im looking for a similar slide hammer thing but I just keep finding ones with hooks on the end instead of the thing that holds the stud thats welded on.
That came with the slide hammer and the slide hammer came with the stud welder from Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-61433.html
Hey great video, thank you.
You're welcome :)
Thanks for the demonstration Lakeside. Just a quick question. On a bigger dent would you start from the out side and make your way in? or would you start in the center?
Also, watching some other guys do this has got me confused a little about tapping down the highs while pulling up. Are you aiming to tap down to the panels original height? Or a little further? It looks like some guys are tapping kinda aggressively almost to create a dent??? I mean, if the metal has been stretched its about the best we can do right?
I always start at the worst part of the dent and let the chips fall where they fall. It always has worked for me - Jerry
I am 100% AMATURE, meaning I never have done any body work, but I still have my 97 K1500 Xtd-cab from new which is starting to show issues. Priced to fix cab corner and rocker panel rot plus few dents and a repaint, was quoted at approx. 9500-10K. But afterwards Ill still have a $3500 truck.So I'm really determined to start repairs myself. Your videos are just what I need.I'm sure I wont do a professional job, but I really want to learn this stuff, and I'm sure I'll do OK.Ill buy things as I go from eastwood (about 2 hr drive). But any brand tools your recommend along the way let us know what they are.Appreciate and love the videos.Wish you were closer, I'd pay for training.
I wish I was closer too. Please feel free to ask any ?s you have - even if you think they are too easy or silly. I'll walk you through it from step one till the end. Also, if there is a topic that you would like to see just ask or comment on any video - I usually answer comments every day. Good luck. Jerry
If you had access to the back end of the piece, would it make sense to just use a hammer on the back?
Yes - you could do that.
Wow!
Because I have no expertise with refinishing and repainting, I was cringing the entire time I you were using the cheese grater and the entire time you were using the sanding block. All of my life experience instinct says "NO! SCRAPING METAL AND ROCKS OVER A PAINTED SURFACE IS WRONG!" I realized that my reaction was almost exactly the same as when I watch surgery videos on the internet (or, like today, when I watched the ultrasound while a doctor gave me a cortisone shot in the shoulder this morning). AIEEE!!! :-)
and of course when I saw your post-primer shot, I went "wow -- that's beautiful. I should never have been scared for a moment."
@@PJMarsosudiro Glad you liked it Phil - things have to get ugly before they get better I guess :)
This is a nice video. I have a dent with a crack on the driver side door. First time doing this but will try to fix this using harbor freight crossbar dent remover. One question I have is, why wasn't the car painted red at the end of the video? Also I purchased several grits(1000,3000,5000, etc) do you recommend I start on the lower end? Thanks.
I borrow the damaged panels from a local scrap yard. To buy matching paint is too expensive - I would love to but..... As for the grit - If you're working with bondo start with 40 and finish with 80. If you are prepping for paint use anything from 220 to 400. If you are buffing out paint use anything from 800-1500. Good luck - ask ?'s if you need to. Jerry
You make this look so easy but I know it isn't. Thank you though awesome video
I'm glad you appreciate the video and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Very Pro,well done Sir!
Thank you kindly :)
What slide hammer do you use for the project for the stud pulled
The slide hammer came with the stud welder and the stud welder is Harbor Freight.
Great video. Thnk you.
Glad you liked it - you're welcome :)
Need to see the result after top coat really.
I saw many videos, but really still couldn’t get, because after sanding with 40 or 80 you still have deep scratches then how can primer hide that, I tried many time but couldn’t and then I sand with 240 or 400 🤔
Finish your filler with 80 grit, prime with "primer surfacer" - filler primer, block sand with 120, prime again, finish sand with DA (240-320) or by hand 320/400, paint
@@LakesideAutobody
This is what I said, after 400 or 800 grit is possible, but how they do after 40 or 80 grit, it mean skip the important part 😂
@@N-one123 You can prime over the 80 grit scratches - then when you sand with a finer grit, that primer fills or smooths out the rougher scratches - hope that makes sense to you my friend :)
Looks like a Grand Am trunk lid
Hey jerry I need to do bodywork on my 1997 Chevy Astro van it’s a dent right on the driver side corner panel I have a slide hammer is there anyway to go about it after I finish pulling the dent should bondo the hole and repaint any suggestions greatly appreciated thanks
The hole doesn't have to be welded as long as it is knocked down a bit then filled. In other words, you don't want a hole with just primer and paint over it. Don't pull it too hard from one spot to create a peak. Knock all the high spots down, fill it, prime and paint - good luck - Happy New Year.
Thank you so much jerry I’m gonna tackle it tomm and give a go happy new year
@@markranaudo1147 Ask ?'s along the way if you want. Let me know how it goes. Jerry
In this day and age a good body man wouldnt think of drilling a hole in a panel the highstrength sheet metal is too thin in the days of when cars used 18 gage sheet metal and slide hammers they use a sharp pointed punch to pierce the metal this pushed the metal in then then the slide hammer and screw had reenforcment to pull the dent out. The idea of using filler to cover holes is not a propper way. moistuer can get in and cause rust damage to the panel you are repairing. The stud welder came on the seen about 25 yrs.ago this is a very good way when you cant get a hamner and dolly to renove the dent. To the stud welder you saw in the vido sold at harbor freight is very cheap . This is for infromation people can do body work any they can by any means they can.
@@waynejohnson7134 doesn't it matter how good the repair needs to be? Show work vs daily driver? A tiny hole should be fine when filled with filler as long as it's not in an area that moisture can accumulate, right? Admittedly, I'm a noob who aspires to learn bodywork and I'm just trying to take out some fender dents for practice on an e30 until I can have it restored properly (or am capable of doing it myself someday). Thanks!
Aluminum bondo?
That'll work but not necessary. The cheapest can of filler works just as well as the most expensive. Really. Enjoy the rest of the week Dillon :)
What if you use a screw? How do you fill those? Jb weld?
You could, but as long as that hole is left a little low, I would just grind the area and fill it with body filler. Many would scoff at that but I assure you if it is not on the bottom of the panel (where there is moisture) you'll be fine
great video .. thanks for the info .. i subbed by the way.
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for subscribing
Great video. I subscribed.
Thanks - feel free to ask ?'s any time - Jerry
Biggest problem with these stud type dent pullers is the cheap eccentric wheel in the slide hammer only lasts a short while before the serrations disappear meaning it will no longer grip the stud. This makes it USELESS. Have not been able to find replacement wheels anywhere.
You can grip them with a small vise grips and pull from that if your slide hammer grip fails - Jerry
I had the harbor freight stud gun and had nothing but problems with it. The slide hammer was of pretty poor quality too. In fact, my stud gun took a dump so I got a replacement and the wheel in the slide hammer was put in backwards! Junk. Bought a good stud gun, been using ever since. The new one came with a slide hammer that doesn’t have a wheel type locking mechanism but rather a twisting mechanism that seems to work pretty awesome.
@@christrainor1129 I'm actually not that happy with HF lately. Every time I go, the coupon doesn't count or they are out of the "deal" that I went there for.
Lakeside Autobody I still have love for Harbor Freight. Certain tools are better than others. I’ve noticed that they discontinue items from time to time and replace them with better versions. Anyway, my secret weapon from HF is an all in one hot air plastic welder. It was like 60 bucks and it’s made me thousands! Lmao.
@@christrainor1129 I'll have to check this thing out - what are some examples of stuff you've welded with it?
Nice 👍🏽
Nice work what’s the name of the cheese grader looking tool
Stanley Surform 21-299
Excellent video. Thank you Jerry. /John
You're welcome. Would you like to see more basic ones or more advanced ones? Jerry
Lakeside Autobody I think videos that emphasize the fundamentals behind the repair would be best. Longer more complicated videos can emphasize more principles all in one. However, If you break the the big jobs down to several shorter videos with focus then points or instructions are easier to search and find the video covering a specific topic. You also make more videos and may earn more money if monetized.
Good suggestions - thanks for the ideas. JV
Thank God for pdr !!
You're right - for those 1 in 100 times the paint is not scratched at all. I've see it a few times in my career since 1982.
What are those "Studs" called and where do you get em? Anyone?
They are stud welder studs and you can get them from Harbor Freight: www.harborfreight.com/250-piece-welding-studs-90081.html?_br_psugg_q=stud+welder
Awesome brother. Thanks man I appreciate it. I just got the slide hammer set, bondo and scrapers from there but they didn't know what they were called
I think Wal-Mart has the whole set up too...
Nice job man. To much body filler me do to the sanding. Nice work tho.
Thanks 👍
Nice
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
i was like no no no dont cut short yet.. i wanna see what you did after applying the primer
Here's that panel being painted - ua-cam.com/video/h9ujQLDhckg/v-deo.html - borrowed it from the junk yard to make the vid so I painted it with what I had :)
Nothing smells better than a body shop
Absolutely true.
Same way like off dolly hammering
Right - absolutely right :)
Now I just need a slide hammer, stud welder and dented vehicle.........
Time to start a project :)
"excess"
Aluminum bondo is great... smell like crack though LOL
a bondo buggy.
Hey Jerry give me a call when you have a few minutes. I am ready for the Smoker Project we spoke about a few weeks ago.
OK - talk to you today sometime - Jerry
Finish with 40 grit ? WRONG
Good listening skills... I didn't mention that I hit that filler with the DA to remove the 40 grit scratches. You'll always finish your filler with 80 grit or even finer if you prefer :)
this is painful to watch, i could have done this and saved that paintwork :(
ian 1971 the paint was already damaged with a deep scratch tho so it needed paintwork regardless
Pretty sure this dude just uses these parts for demonstration purposes to teach DIYers.
Would have customer a lot in plane ✈ fare.
OK let’s see it
This damage is so much worse than that little ding. Fail
??
Just a few times lol