@Warren Green different dies work in different ways. Typically, you back the "body" of the seating die out of the press to not crimp, then slowly turn the die body in while you have an empty brass case fully raised by the press. You will feel when the crimp portion of the die just touches. Drop the case back out of the die and turn the die down about half a turn as a starting point. you turn down more for additional crimp and out for less. Now you adjust the bullet seating depth to cannelure center(if this produces an appropriate length for your cartridge. .always consult a reloading manual for suggested lengths for your selected bullet. Another option is to use a separate crimp die. This is what I generally do. I like having it is a separate process because I rarely crimp rifle rounds.
@@warrengreen3217 I haven't used RCBS dies, but I know they make quality stuff. Are you reloading for a bolt action or semiautomatic rifles, or pistols?
I read a few bad reviews on Hornady products b4 I started reloading last year that made me stay away from them and go with RCBS with everything. Well I bought a set of your dies a few weeks ago and am extremely impressed with the design and build quality. And you guys make the Micro-just seater that screws into all your dies I’m regretting not buying them sooner. ALLOT of bad reviews on anybodys products are user error and I now I don’t pay nearly as much attention to poor reviews anymore. Every bad review I’ve seen on UA-cam or in forums about your cam-lock puller is people trying to pull 45cal pistol bullets and chipping the collets or breaking them completely when it was never designed for pistol rounds in the first place. Or people trying to get a replacement cam-lock because they broke the lever on top clean off accusing you guys of cheaping out on the metal used for it. I can’t Imagine how they even manage to do that if they use it as it’s supposed to be used and I don’t blame you guys at all for refusing to replace products in such situations Even RCBS has bad reviews resulting from user error. The auto prime gets allot of bad reviews but the thing is freaking awesome if you use it right. I hope people read this but I know it’s too long cause most people can’t even read the directions on ANYTHING but I hope you guys see this and I love your podcast almost every episode I learn something new
I have the Hornady lnl, 14 years, I believe and it mostly collects dust. I've reloaded Hornady bullets since 86 and will continue to do so, but never could reload on their progressive press without a headache.
From a guy who has more grey than Preston and Ben put together, I enjoyed the podcast. I also enjoy the loading/reloading process as much as the shooting, whether it be shotgun, centerfire or muzzleloader. Well, my favorites are actually 22 WMR and 17 HMR, but that's another story for another podcast that I look forward to. Lock-N-Load.
I just started with the classic kit and man I am so happy and took pride in my bullets. It’s addicting. Thank you for everyone at Hornady for making it very simple to use, I still have not resized my brass. I started with new unprimed brass
Excellent podcast!! It's a deep deep rabbit hole!! Than you find out you want more accurate reloads, and learn about mandrels vs expander balls, than your buying dies like redding with bushings or the Redding body die!! Uuugg! 🤦 it's a blast though!! And totally worth it!!
@Hornady Manufacturing you got that right!! I am mostly Red!! Just bought some cx 180gr .308 bullets yesterday! Can't wait to get started with those bullets!
Classic kit was my first press and still use it to this day, just waiting for primers to be available and then BAM!!! I'll start up again. Thank you Hornaday 😊
Bit the cost of the small primer lapua 6.5 brass because I was able to find 6000 BR4 Small rifle primer.. $1200 cost for primers and brass, what is this sport coming to...
Been using a (then) $15.00 Lee C=Press for like 30 years. Just upgraded to the same one but it has removable lock rings and I don't even like those. I may use the new on only for universal de-capping or something or JB weld the darn thing in there.
I love the classic kit. One big thing I think the press needs is a locking system for the lock/load bushing, it gets a little annoying trying to back out a die for adjustment. Digital caliper would be nice to toss in there too. Very good quality on the components and I highly recommend it
I hate those lock load bushings/ring on any press. Have to buy the whole D*** set for every die or use some method like pliars to remove them from dies. WE NEED OPTIONS. So on my Lee, I am going to JB WELD mine in place, or only us it for a de-prime.
Thanks for this episode. I am just beginning. I have wanted to start reloading for a while but just recently bought a second hand classic kit that does not look like it was not used. I am looking forward to getting started.
When I was 18 (late '83 or early '84), I bought a scoped Heter's bolt action in .243 Win off the used gun rack (I don't remember the price, but it was 2-digit dollars). Of course, I bought a couple boxes of ammo while I was at it. Right next to the ammo, there was a little red box labeled "Lee Loader .243 Win" for $11.95, so I bought it, too, along with a box of primers, a 1lb can of power, and a box of bullets. That was my start to reloading. :-)
I'm impressed with the up grades in the kit. I thought they still came with the balance scale. That scale is sitting in a lot of corners of homes. I definitely save money reloading rifle bullets today.
I live in California; I am not allowed to purchase factory loaded ammunition so, I have to reload. Frankly, I get the safest and most optimized ammunition that I can make. When I reloaded as a teenager I loaded for economic reasons now, I load for legal reasons but it is still fun to load my own ammunition. I always preferred vibratory tumblers two in a set. One contains one type of medium then the second one contains a finer medium. Also, case mouth annealing is a must after a few firings. I made a stab crimper in three positions and have used it for years. It keeps the bullet from moving. I have drawings for an elongated stab crimper; I would like to get it manufactured sometime. I like Boxer primers but some cases I have used in the past were Berdan primed. I had to made my own Berdan de-primer. My Berdan de-primer involved drilling the twin holes to a slightly bigger diameter and follow up immediately with twin pin punches.
For cartridges with necks fired from a bolt action, I've only ever neck-sized. I don't do it because I think the results are better; I do it because it's easier and I don't like messing with lube. I've read magazines articles criticizing neck-sizing. I don't know how it affects case life vs full-length sizing. I don't shoot hundreds or thousands of rounds per year; in some calibers, I don't even shoot a box per year. So I don't really care how it affects case life. I don't know whether it's more or less accurate, but I don't shoot targets at 1k yards. I'm only concerned about minute-of-critter at 50-400 yards. For handgun cartridges, I use carbide dies so I don't lube them either.
For straight wall mouth expansion, Lyman came up with the best way to do this over 100 years ago. They call it the M step expander. The expander has a tapered lead up to .002 inch below bullet diameter for a bit more than the length the bullet seats into the case. At this point there is a 45° angle up to .002 inch bigger than bullet diameter. Other manufacturers make their version of this expander and you order them in many diameters to match the neck tension you want. These don't over flare the case mouth. Over flaring and the amount you have to remove this flare overworks the case mouth, leading to cracks in the mouth that can extend into the case neck. I use this type of expander in both straight wall and bottle neck cases for cast bullets as well as jacketed. The bullet starts into the case mouth straighter than no flare or flared mouthes. This leads to better accuracy.
Brush necks, lube, resize through the die and knock out primers, trim, deburr, and chamfer, clean primer pockets, then tumble. Remove from media and blow cases out with compressed air and reload.
I’m looking at picking up the classic kit to start reloading and I want to reload for my 454 Casull. Do I need something extra to get my loads crimped down enough to handle the recoil?
I have a 270 BLR. For the first time, I fired Outfitter ammunition out of it. My riffle did not like it. The smallest group at 100yrd was the size of my fist. What is the recommended twist rate for a 270 shooting Outfitter ammunition. The twist rate in my BLR is 1:10.
My friend needs a 303 Savage die set. Can you make that one? What is the cost for a custom die set? Would a custom shell holder for this caliber be required?
It is a good thing that you guys are smart because I have a pair of bowling shoes that look better! Seriously, great video, keep them coming. I am getting ready to order my six hundred freedom seeds from you guys. Great promotion.
I have tried many different digital product for loading. From cheap to expensive. I don't trust them. Batteries always weak or dead. Most that most people can afford are not consistent enough to trust. My dial calipers and beam scales are always ready to go. The powder measure I like the most are my Lyman 55. One measure has everything you need for every charge, pistol or rifle. No swapping metering devices for what you are charging. With a bit of shopping around on the used market will build you a good set up for much less than any manufactures kits.
UA-cam…”Johnny’s Reloading Bench”…all y’all need to know about reloading 👍👍👍…does anyone know where “Johnny’s Reloading Bench” went off to?…I’m pretty sure as a grown man he grew tired of effing UA-cam’s bullshit and pulled out,,,but I would just like to know, is he on a another and more 2A friendly venue (I’m on the verge of totally abandoning UA-cam…sorry advertisers)… his channel was about doing things right and safety.
I just opened up a lock and load single stage kit. The trickler is cheap junk. The scale is complete junk. My lee and rcbs shell holders don't work with the press primer. The primer catch system kinda sucks. The powder measure dumps powder while making adjustments. The press itself is nice. Good leverage and smooth. For the price you could do much better.
I don't like the spray. Only way I'd us it is spray some in a pan and roll the cases around. Spraying on a loading block is a waste of spray. It's okay though, I load small volume and am not in any hurry. Too far in now to buy kits. Might consider your neck turning tool. As such you should toss in a whole set of shell holders keep same price. I'd buy it.
Learn how to walk before you learn how to run. I’ve seen too many people set up an ammo factory in their basement with no experience, then show up at the range with 500 rounds that won’t chamber or cycle…😂
I stumbled across this channel a few weeks ago and have spent so much time listening to you all - seriously great content!
Glad you enjoy it!
Unreal and super valuable video. Hopping Christmas morning I wake up to the kit and if not I’m definitely getting it and gonna start reloading!
Highly recommend for anyone learning to reload. Wish I had this podcast available several years ago when I was just starting reloading.
Thanks for the kind words!
Deprime, quick clean, lube, resize, full tumble, trim, chamfer, debur, compressed air, prime, powder, bullet. That's my rifle process.
I'm just getting into reloading got everything I need but how do I set my bullet seating die to crimp on the bullet cannelure
@Warren Green different dies work in different ways.
Typically, you back the "body" of the seating die out of the press to not crimp, then slowly turn the die body in while you have an empty brass case fully raised by the press. You will feel when the crimp portion of the die just touches.
Drop the case back out of the die and turn the die down about half a turn as a starting point. you turn down more for additional crimp and out for less.
Now you adjust the bullet seating depth to cannelure center(if this produces an appropriate length for your cartridge. .always consult a reloading manual for suggested lengths for your selected bullet.
Another option is to use a separate crimp die. This is what I generally do. I like having it is a separate process because I rarely crimp rifle rounds.
I got hornady classic press with lock and load bushings and I'm using RCBS dies and shell holders
@@warrengreen3217 I haven't used RCBS dies, but I know they make quality stuff. Are you reloading for a bolt action or semiautomatic rifles, or pistols?
@@diggernash1 rifles 30-06,308,303British,6.5creed all bolts and 30-30 lever action im confused on how I set the die to match the cannelure on bullet
I read a few bad reviews on Hornady products b4 I started reloading last year that made me stay away from them and go with RCBS with everything. Well I bought a set of your dies a few weeks ago and am extremely impressed with the design and build quality. And you guys make the Micro-just seater that screws into all your dies I’m regretting not buying them sooner. ALLOT of bad reviews on anybodys products are user error and I now I don’t pay nearly as much attention to poor reviews anymore. Every bad review I’ve seen on UA-cam or in forums about your cam-lock puller is people trying to pull 45cal pistol bullets and chipping the collets or breaking them completely when it was never designed for pistol rounds in the first place. Or people trying to get a replacement cam-lock because they broke the lever on top clean off accusing you guys of cheaping out on the metal used for it. I can’t Imagine how they even manage to do that if they use it as it’s supposed to be used and I don’t blame you guys at all for refusing to replace products in such situations Even RCBS has bad reviews resulting from user error. The auto prime gets allot of bad reviews but the thing is freaking awesome if you use it right. I hope people read this but I know it’s too long cause most people can’t even read the directions on ANYTHING but I hope you guys see this and I love your podcast almost every episode I learn something new
I have the Hornady lnl, 14 years, I believe and it mostly collects dust. I've reloaded Hornady bullets since 86 and will continue to do so, but never could reload on their progressive press without a headache.
My shop recommended this kit for me as a beginner. After watching this podcast, I'm sold. New subscriber also. Thank you!
Welcome aboard!
From a guy who has more grey than Preston and Ben put together, I enjoyed the podcast. I also enjoy the loading/reloading process as much as the shooting, whether it be shotgun, centerfire or muzzleloader. Well, my favorites are actually 22 WMR and 17 HMR, but that's another story for another podcast that I look forward to. Lock-N-Load.
I just started with the classic kit and man I am so happy and took pride in my bullets. It’s addicting. Thank you for everyone at Hornady for making it very simple to use, I still have not resized my brass. I started with new unprimed brass
My first kit, and yes the kit is great, simple but very, very effective. I got it at Sportsman's Warehouse several years ago!
Right on
Do I really need all the extra reloading equipment that I have accumulated over the last 30 years ? YES !
Planning on getting some of your stuff soon. Looks to be pure quality.
Excellent podcast!! It's a deep deep rabbit hole!! Than you find out you want more accurate reloads, and learn about mandrels vs expander balls, than your buying dies like redding with bushings or the Redding body die!! Uuugg! 🤦 it's a blast though!! And totally worth it!!
It is a blast, and handy when ammo is hard to come by!
@Hornady Manufacturing you got that right!! I am mostly Red!! Just bought some cx 180gr .308 bullets yesterday! Can't wait to get started with those bullets!
Classic kit was my first press and still use it to this day, just waiting for primers to be available and then BAM!!! I'll start up again. Thank you Hornaday 😊
Us too!
Bit the cost of the small primer lapua 6.5 brass because I was able to find 6000 BR4 Small rifle primer.. $1200 cost for primers and brass, what is this sport coming to...
Agree that even the "basic" starter presses & kits will still be go-to's for many years. Can't go wrong.
Been using a (then) $15.00 Lee C=Press for like 30 years. Just upgraded to the same one but it has removable lock rings and I don't even like those. I may use the new on only for universal de-capping or something or JB weld the darn thing in there.
I love the classic kit. One big thing I think the press needs is a locking system for the lock/load bushing, it gets a little annoying trying to back out a die for adjustment. Digital caliper would be nice to toss in there too. Very good quality on the components and I highly recommend it
I hate those lock load bushings/ring on any press. Have to buy the whole D*** set for every die or use some method like pliars to remove them from dies. WE NEED OPTIONS. So on my Lee, I am going to JB WELD mine in place, or only us it for a de-prime.
Very informative, especially for the beginner put into simple and easy to understand terms thanks hornady 🤙
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for this episode. I am just beginning. I have wanted to start reloading for a while but just recently bought a second hand classic kit that does not look like it was not used. I am looking forward to getting started.
You can do it!
Digital calipers work wonderful with the comparator sets.
Indeed!
Good job guys, nice explanation
Thank you!
When I was 18 (late '83 or early '84), I bought a scoped Heter's bolt action in .243 Win off the used gun rack (I don't remember the price, but it was 2-digit dollars). Of course, I bought a couple boxes of ammo while I was at it. Right next to the ammo, there was a little red box labeled "Lee Loader .243 Win" for $11.95, so I bought it, too, along with a box of primers, a 1lb can of power, and a box of bullets. That was my start to reloading. :-)
You forgot one very important thing, Light it is so important to check your powder charge in the case. You need to be careful not to double charge.
For first timers.. find a few folks that you trust and watch their process. Plus read reloading manuals first then dive in.
Love that advert, thats totally the way I act inside a gun store. " I need all of this, and I'll figure out later on why I need it"
I'm about to start doing my own reloads.
The 007 kit was my first. You had to thread the die in. Now I have the lock n load and use Redding dies.
I'm impressed with the up grades in the kit. I thought they still came with the balance scale. That scale is sitting in a lot of corners of homes.
I definitely save money reloading rifle bullets today.
I keep my balance beam (RCBS 502) I use it to verify the digital.
I live in California; I am not allowed to purchase factory loaded ammunition so, I have to reload. Frankly, I get the safest and most optimized ammunition that I can make. When I reloaded as a teenager I loaded for economic reasons now, I load for legal reasons but it is still fun to load my own ammunition. I always preferred vibratory tumblers two in a set. One contains one type of medium then the second one contains a finer medium. Also, case mouth annealing is a must after a few firings. I made a stab crimper in three positions and have used it for years. It keeps the bullet from moving. I have drawings for an elongated stab crimper; I would like to get it manufactured sometime.
I like Boxer primers but some cases I have used in the past were Berdan primed. I had to made my own Berdan de-primer. My Berdan de-primer involved drilling the twin holes to a slightly bigger diameter and follow up immediately with twin pin punches.
For cartridges with necks fired from a bolt action, I've only ever neck-sized. I don't do it because I think the results are better; I do it because it's easier and I don't like messing with lube.
I've read magazines articles criticizing neck-sizing.
I don't know how it affects case life vs full-length sizing. I don't shoot hundreds or thousands of rounds per year; in some calibers, I don't even shoot a box per year. So I don't really care how it affects case life.
I don't know whether it's more or less accurate, but I don't shoot targets at 1k yards. I'm only concerned about minute-of-critter at 50-400 yards.
For handgun cartridges, I use carbide dies so I don't lube them either.
For straight wall mouth expansion, Lyman came up with the best way to do this over 100 years ago. They call it the M step expander. The expander has a tapered lead up to .002 inch below bullet diameter for a bit more than the length the bullet seats into the case. At this point there is a 45° angle up to .002 inch bigger than bullet diameter.
Other manufacturers make their version of this expander and you order them in many diameters to match the neck tension you want.
These don't over flare the case mouth. Over flaring and the amount you have to remove this flare overworks the case mouth, leading to cracks in the mouth that can extend into the case neck.
I use this type of expander in both straight wall and bottle neck cases for cast bullets as well as jacketed. The bullet starts into the case mouth straighter than no flare or flared mouthes. This leads to better accuracy.
Brush necks, lube, resize through the die and knock out primers, trim, deburr, and chamfer, clean primer pockets, then tumble. Remove from media and blow cases out with compressed air and reload.
I wish hornady made a kit like the Lyman ultimate reloading kit. Now that would open a can of worms
The long videos have more in depth knowledge that I love but I find my self gravitating towards short videos depending on my day to day activities
It would be nice to have an OAL-to Ogive added to the charts.
I’m looking at picking up the classic kit to start reloading and I want to reload for my 454 Casull. Do I need something extra to get my loads crimped down enough to handle the recoil?
The die set and the classic will handle it perfectly
Hard to believe that the kit doesn't come with both priming arms! WOW.
I have a 270 BLR. For the first time, I fired Outfitter ammunition out of it. My riffle did not like it. The smallest group at 100yrd was the size of my fist.
What is the recommended twist rate for a 270 shooting Outfitter ammunition. The twist rate in my BLR is 1:10.
P.s. I plan on doing a load development with recently purchased CX Bullets. Is it worth it if my twist rate is 1:10?
1 in 10 is just fine for the 130 CX
Lee classic loader for my 270 with Hornady fixens. Mmm mmm
I can see me doing more like Ben when i start. That is probably because of the fields i have worked in, and i am a little OCD about things.
What is your min velocity for monolithics GMX, CX would like to get for reloading 308 165gr depending on availability for hunting deer, elk and moose
There are a few special purpose ones that are different but the minimum expansion velocity on the majority of them are 2000 fps.
My friend needs a 303 Savage die set. Can you make that one? What is the cost for a custom die set? Would a custom shell holder for this caliber be required?
That is why I only neck size, I only use my brass in my own rifle with moderate loads. Less working of the brass
What does the black ring signify?
It is a good thing that you guys are smart because I have a pair of bowling shoes that look better! Seriously, great video, keep them coming. I am getting ready to order my six hundred freedom seeds from you guys. Great promotion.
Thanks for watching!
I have tried many different digital product for loading. From cheap to expensive. I don't trust them. Batteries always weak or dead. Most that most people can afford are not consistent enough to trust. My dial calipers and beam scales are always ready to go. The powder measure I like the most are my Lyman 55. One measure has everything you need for every charge, pistol or rifle. No swapping metering devices for what you are charging.
With a bit of shopping around on the used market will build you a good set up for much less than any manufactures kits.
UA-cam…”Johnny’s Reloading Bench”…all y’all need to know about reloading 👍👍👍…does anyone know where “Johnny’s Reloading Bench” went off to?…I’m pretty sure as a grown man he grew tired of effing UA-cam’s bullshit and pulled out,,,but I would just like to know, is he on a another and more 2A friendly venue (I’m on the verge of totally abandoning UA-cam…sorry advertisers)… his channel was about doing things right and safety.
I just opened up a lock and load single stage kit. The trickler is cheap junk. The scale is complete junk. My lee and rcbs shell holders don't work with the press primer. The primer catch system kinda sucks. The powder measure dumps powder while making adjustments. The press itself is nice. Good leverage and smooth. For the price you could do much better.
Albert, give us a call at 800-338-3220 and press 3 for tech.
🙏🏼
thank you
Welcome!
A podcast on reloading? How about some brass for some of your newer cartridges? 😉
I don't like the spray. Only way I'd us it is spray some in a pan and roll the cases around. Spraying on a loading block is a waste of spray. It's okay though, I load small volume and am not in any hurry. Too far in now to buy kits. Might consider your neck turning tool. As such you should toss in a whole set of shell holders keep same price. I'd buy it.
Learn how to walk before you learn how to run. I’ve seen too many people set up an ammo factory in their basement with no experience, then show up at the range with 500 rounds that won’t chamber or cycle…😂
09:55 are the tech tips available on another platform for those of us who refuse to use that evil face****? Thanks.
Matching watches and matching wedding bands.
Poor timing. 6 hours of class before I can watch this thing 😢
Sorry guys I want him try my casings so I can take a double check for damage casing
Guess ima spend some cash soon
Fascinating video. What's that crap on host's left arm? I prefer listening to men, confident men talk about shooting.
Your blue pres relodin
Get with
an experienced reloader and buy better equipment than you can buy in the starter kit .
Extremely confusing for anybody that doesn't know how to reload to begin with.
Good god get rid of the headgear so we can hear! Im out.
Interested in working together brother, please contact me if you can.