I like these how to videos you make when you actually walk us through the install. You're so knowledgable, but i've been finding myself lost when I listen do your videos without seeing you actually install. Thanks for making this video.
That was explained very well. My brother is a Master electrician and I’ve wired tons of outlets and receptacles with him over the years. Your explanation and technique was perfect.
Well done, electric is one thing I know how to do. I use an infrared heater in my travel trailer when I'm someplace with shore power. I put a junction box in coming out of the A/C breaker and ran a line to where I mounted a box for my heater. I just figured that I was never going to run the heat and A/C at the same time. I put a small label on the junction box and above the outlet, just in case I get rid of the travel trailer so the next person knows what I did. I didn't have the room for a 20 amp breaker, or I would have added one. I didn't want to tackle putting in a 50 amp panel. I may do that next winter if I add solar. Take care of yourself and your family. Safe travels from Charlie.
I like your videos and have been watching and liking for years. I always know I'm going to get quality info. This one was especially good for me. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy with one exception, I don't do electrical (too much to know and the mistakes carry too much risk) That said, you sure made it look easy and thanks for the info on the boxes, I didn't know they had different capacity ratings. Also, plus one for liking the table top wiring example - that is how I think and picture it in my mind so it's really nice to have the clean confirmation. That's it! Safe and fulfilling travels to you. Cheers!
Thank you. Great to see. Did something similar in our kitchen/living. Everything was on one 15 amp breaker which made running toaster, microwave, and coffeemaker together and issue. I didn't think about adding a breaker, but I took over the breaker going to the washer/dryer combo which we don't use. I need to go back and see if I can do that double slim design if I need the breaker space in the future.
Great video. The main reason for twisting the wires together is that electrical current runs on the outer edges of the wire. So the more you can make the outer edges touch, the better the connection and lower resistance which means lower amperage lost to heat.
That was very good. I like to use metal cut in boxes, because plastic gets brittle over time being hot and cold. Also, you can retap the box if its ever needed. You'll probably have a new coach by then.
Very knowledgeable video, thank you. Just wanted to mention that the device counts as (2) conductors which would equal 4 cubic inches (at 14AWG), and the current NEC now counts each ground wire as a separate conductor - but I'm not sure that an RV has the same code requirements as a typical dwelling.
I'm remodeling a travel trailer and I chose to use the shallow outlet boxes since they should fit inside the thin walls. Also remember that the AC grounding bar usually requires a specific torque for the connections. Hand tight with a screwdriver may not be enough.
Great video! I want to add an outlet on the outside of my TT towards the front. My biggest challenge will be to find out where I can safely cut through the outer wall.
I added one in my wall and like you I don't like/trust those little thin ones in rv's, so I used a cut out box also but because it was so deep a took a cut tool and cut the box in half and used it that way.
Great video! You mention other videos on installing outlets. Can you link those in the description? Also, interested in junction boxes on the roof and drilling holes in the roof. Any videos for that? Thanks and appreciate the videos! So helpful.
I'm amazed this industries approach to wire a RV product. For the DIY is one thing; in contrast, the RV owner who must pay a technican to work on wiring, I can see the labor cost going through the ceiling to trace source(s) . Behind a wall wires are everywhere, WOW. RV industry it's time to setup, create wiring bundles and schematics. It will reduce weight and material cost. Inital Engineering design cost will be more; however, you will recover that on the return for you investment (material savings / inital manufacturing installing costs). More importantly the end User will have something which is much more maintenance friendly. Futhermore, technicans will have the ability to trouble shoot more effectively and effiecently. A happy owner is a brand loyal owner.
Very well explained. I am getting ready to do a similar project myself and was a tad reluctant to do it. Now you got me thinking again. I was actually thinking about adding an outlet that will connect to the 15 am plug at the post at any campsite. I would add a 10 am breaker and box that would be dedicated to this outlet. My thought is that I can use the extra 10 amps for a small heater or outside electric grill. All this so that I do not have to pull from my existing 30 amp supply. What are your thoughts?
Very few people can demonstrate and explain DIY projects as well as you. You must have an electrical background by watching your techniques? Do you have opinion on DC compressor refrigerators?
Nice that you can add receptacles. Our slides quit working on our Sunset Trail and it ended up being a faulty wire nut. The wires melted a hole through it so it was replaced with a buss terminal. They were ground wires. While looking for the fault, I found some blade fuses behind the control center panel. Very poor engineering. At least those weren't 120 volt fuses.
So thankful Jarrod. You're video is great, and I'm a teacher so I know what great instruction is:) Could I ask a quick question? I want to add a 100 outlet in an upper bunk 3 feet above the 110 outlet in the lower bunk. It looks like the wire comes down from the roof to the outlet and then back up. Can I just wire in another outlet in wither wire? They're so easy to get to!
I replaced the outlet next to the bed and the one under the dinette. I used old work boxes since I replaced the cheep RV outlets with outlets that have a USB charger. Works great for charging the phones.
Great video. I want to add an outlet in my RV basement, just as you did. However can not find an outlet close to the basement to tap into. Any suggestions? Would be very difficult to run / fish a wire from the breaker box because the breaker box is in the rear of the RV.
Wago lever wire connections are the best especially in an RV environment. Though I will say the way you did your wire nuts are unlikely to fail. Thanks for the video.
Nice video! If I wanted to add another electrical outlet for a 15A - 1500 w fireplace in my Travel Trailer how do I run the wires? Dealership is outrageously expensive.
Good to know - thanks for sharing. I don't really understand what you're talking about but here is what it does: it creates a little red flag in my brain and if I work on a GFI in the future if will think there is something to do with the loads on these guys and I need to make sure I know what I'm doing.
@@mondavou9408 it is written on the back of a standard GFI protected plug line would be the hot coming from the breaker box load is every plug after the GFI if you hook that up backwards the plugs past the GFI will not work correctly I am an electrician buddy
@@foreverfixin I think you mistyped there. Line is power in from the breaker and load is power out from the outlet. Load side is the GFI protected side.
You didn’t have to add the third wire for your ground connection. If you had used a ground wire nut (green), they have a hole in the middle. You leave extra wire on one of the grounds and it protrudes through the hole,with enough left to make your connection. Saves space and one less wire to come loose.
Very well done install and very well explained. Ironically, your last comment was not followed. You put half sized Eaton Breakers in the electrical panel that was full of Siemens breakers. Have to assume it was a Siemens panel without seeing the label. You obviously have read NEC! Please go to Article 100 Definitions and look up “outlet” and “receptacle”. Respectfully, Kevin
The trailer manufacturers use solid conductors for AC (15amp and 20amp) and stranded for DC and 30amp AC in the trailers I've worked on. It's safe and the connections are more solid because as he showed in the video, you can twist them so that they won't separate.
I have one of those 15amp quick connect outlets that was cracked and I tried to replace it but could not get the back of receptacle back on. I finally gave up. Now I'm looking for a blue shallow box to use a regular household receptacle. I got the receptacle but not the box. The boxes are too deep and I don't have space in the ceiling. There's like may 2 to 2.5" depth in the ceiling. MY receptacle has 2 romex wires going to it. The wall out let is in the middle of a circuit. Where can you find these shallow boxes?
Great video and explanation. I have been household wiring for years and never knew that the boxes had a limit on the amount of wire in them:) With your new RV, have you found that each circuit has sufficient capacity to handle the extra load after adding another breaker? On my new MH, they wired the inverter to a single receptacle that feeds the res fridge. I know the inverter has the capacity to feed some more outlets and want to wire up one for my cpap. Not sure if I should try to go back through the breaker panel or try to run a new line to the bedroom. If you have dealt with this before or could do a video it would be great. I hear in the forums many people dealing with it on their new coaches. Not sure why the manufacturers won’t deal with it from the factory.
The capacity has been great and no issues. I do wish the manufacturers would change the way they prep which is a bit outdated. But that said, How I like to set it up is not how I would expect manufacturers to because of the complexity. Here is our setup to not have to pick and chose what we want to be on the inverter.ua-cam.com/video/gbKBoIvXNPA/v-deo.html
Hello, I've recently started living in my rv full time and am frustrated with the lack of outlets. I have an idea of replacing one of the light fixtures with an outlet, so that I can have an outlet in a more convenient place near the couch to charge devices. I understand that the light is 12V so I can't plug anything into it that draws too much power. But would this be possible?
So my CO2 detector has a black and white, hot and neutral I presume. However when I put my tap tester to it it doesn't indicate that it's hot. Is this a low voltage issue?
How common is it to use solid romex wiring in RVs? My understanding is that stranded wire should be used instead to avoid work hardening and breakage from road vibration.
I was hoping that maybe you or someone in the comments would be able to help me out with figuring out how to wire up a solar power system into a pre-existing system, for example my water pump and lights all run on the electrical already set in the rv, and I would like to transfer those onto my new solar (batteries) power system, if you or anyone can help me figure this out I would very much appreciate it.
what you call cut in box the Real Name is (Old Job box or old work box) some box store may not know what you are take about (call it cut boxes) As electrician school in that romex is one wire in and wire out is One wire if second wire in is two wire. pigtail wire is one 2020 NEC code you only hook two on one side of receptacle I may look it up may change One wire hook to receptacle and pigtail wire is the same as the wire coming to box. Why only two wire two one side the jumper metal in receptacle was over heat jump Next time run romex in blue conduit . Keep you safe
Are the breakers just residential breakers or do RV mfg use breakers made specifically for RVs? Also, I realize you prefer not to use the RV outlets, but if you have to, where do you get them from? Finally, your how-to videos are great, but I'm always struck by how calm and quiet it is when you film them....since I believe you are a full-time RVer, do you chase your family off when its time to film? :-)
If you need the RV type outlets I'd check online first but I bought one at a small RV Supply store. They had dozens of them. I replaced several of them because they were 30 years old and had arcing and leakage problems that was transferring a brass coating from one terminal to the wires.
I'm going to disagree. Solder shouldn't be used in wire connection on something that moves. It actually can cause problems. My dad is an old airplane mechanic and solder is a no-no because of failures. Probably unlikely with solid core wire but with stranded wire you can wick solder up the wire and cause a point of failer when the wire is moving.
twisting wire is the best the power flow on the surface of copper or aluminum wire especially not solder (aluminum wire) I say low volt ok solder. Why you may add more resistance to the wire
Umm, Romex must be protected! It's not rated to be exposed to physical damage. I'm pretty sure the low voltage wire cover you showed is not approved for that. MC cable would be just as easy and fully code compliant. You might also consult a master electrician on your wire nut technique. There's a lot more to wirenuts than twisting!
Just don’t. You don’t need “extra outlets” in a box where you can touch opposite walls by stretching out your arms. This is travel trailer not a potting shed. Leave it as built.
I like the way you dry fit to show us a simpler explanation of what goes where. Thanks
I like these how to videos you make when you actually walk us through the install. You're so knowledgable, but i've been finding myself lost when I listen do your videos without seeing you actually install. Thanks for making this video.
That was explained very well. My brother is a Master electrician and I’ve wired tons of outlets and receptacles with him over the years. Your explanation and technique was perfect.
Thank you.
Well done, electric is one thing I know how to do. I use an infrared heater in my travel trailer when I'm someplace with shore power. I put a junction box in coming out of the A/C breaker and ran a line to where I mounted a box for my heater. I just figured that I was never going to run the heat and
A/C at the same time. I put a small label on the junction box and above the outlet, just in case I get rid of the travel trailer so the next person knows what I did. I didn't have the room for a 20 amp breaker, or I would have added one. I didn't want to tackle putting in a 50 amp panel. I may do that next winter if I add solar.
Take care of yourself and your family.
Safe travels from Charlie.
I'm impressed how well you know the code. You were dead on with what you were teaching.
I have a small RV and I am lucky enough to have outlets where I need them. Thanks for the tips in case that changes.
The table top mock up was a great idea. It made it very clear how it all fit together.
I like your videos and have been watching and liking for years. I always know I'm going to get quality info. This one was especially good for me. I'm a do it yourself kind of guy with one exception, I don't do electrical (too much to know and the mistakes carry too much risk) That said, you sure made it look easy and thanks for the info on the boxes, I didn't know they had different capacity ratings. Also, plus one for liking the table top wiring example - that is how I think and picture it in my mind so it's really nice to have the clean confirmation. That's it! Safe and fulfilling travels to you. Cheers!
Thank you. Great to see. Did something similar in our kitchen/living. Everything was on one 15 amp breaker which made running toaster, microwave, and coffeemaker together and issue. I didn't think about adding a breaker, but I took over the breaker going to the washer/dryer combo which we don't use. I need to go back and see if I can do that double slim design if I need the breaker space in the future.
Great video. The main reason for twisting the wires together is that electrical current runs on the outer edges of the wire. So the more you can make the outer edges touch, the better the connection and lower resistance which means lower amperage lost to heat.
Excellent! Details are spot on and make all the difference.
Wow, just thinking of doing this. Thanks!
Could you do a video on adding a USB outlet and a 12 volt outlet?
That's a really good one there
Nice to see someone knowing their stuff. Thanks for the tips!
Great info and I’m sure this will come in handy when I do purchase my RV and realize I need to add an outlet for my car water fountain.
That was very good. I like to use metal cut in boxes, because plastic gets brittle over time being hot and cold. Also, you can retap the box if its ever needed. You'll probably have a new coach by then.
LOVE Jared's channel. I've learned so much from him.
Thank you! On the last video I was thinking the same about an outlet video. Nice work!
Exactly what I was looking for. As always awesome freaking video! Thank you
Very knowledgeable video, thank you.
Just wanted to mention that the device counts as (2) conductors which would equal 4 cubic inches (at 14AWG), and the current NEC now counts each ground wire as a separate conductor - but I'm not sure that an RV has the same code requirements as a typical dwelling.
I'm remodeling a travel trailer and I chose to use the shallow outlet boxes since they should fit inside the thin walls. Also remember that the AC grounding bar usually requires a specific torque for the connections. Hand tight with a screwdriver may not be enough.
Fantastic. Loved the video. Incredibly informative, well thought out and put together.
Thanks
This is very well explained - thank you!
Your videos are so helpful!! Thank you!
Check out the WAGO connector, which takes the place of wire nuts.
Shouldn’t use wago connectors for this because they can wiggle out overtime. Wago is only for residential
Great video! I want to add an outlet on the outside of my TT towards the front. My biggest challenge will be to find out where I can safely cut through the outer wall.
Nice video. Very self explanatory. Thank you again professor Jared.
Thank you.
Great Video and thank you for explaining it simply :)
Very fine electrical work man!
Very well done. Really enjoy your channel.
Excellent description!!!
Thanks!
A great install
Great information!
Awesome info!!! Thank you!!!!
I added one in my wall and like you I don't like/trust those little thin ones in rv's, so I used a cut out box also but because it was so deep a took a cut tool and cut the box in half and used it that way.
Great video! You mention other videos on installing outlets. Can you link those in the description? Also, interested in junction boxes on the roof and drilling holes in the roof. Any videos for that? Thanks and appreciate the videos! So helpful.
Great episode, Jared, especially for a guy like me who knows just enough about electrical work to be dangerous. Keep 'em coming.
I'm amazed this industries approach to wire a RV product. For the DIY is one thing; in contrast, the RV owner who must pay a technican to work on wiring, I can see the labor cost going through the ceiling to trace source(s) . Behind a wall wires are everywhere, WOW. RV industry it's time to setup, create wiring bundles and schematics. It will reduce weight and material cost. Inital Engineering design cost will be more; however, you will recover that on the return for you investment (material savings / inital manufacturing installing costs). More importantly the end User will have something which is much more maintenance friendly. Futhermore, technicans will have the ability to trouble shoot more effectively and effiecently. A happy owner is a brand loyal owner.
Great video!
Very well explained. I am getting ready to do a similar project myself and was a tad reluctant to do it. Now you got me thinking again. I was actually thinking about adding an outlet that will connect to the 15 am plug at the post at any campsite. I would add a 10 am breaker and box that would be dedicated to this outlet. My thought is that I can use the extra 10 amps for a small heater or outside electric grill. All this so that I do not have to pull from my existing 30 amp supply. What are your thoughts?
Very few people can demonstrate and explain DIY projects as well as you. You must have an electrical background by watching your techniques? Do you have opinion on DC compressor refrigerators?
Thanks!
Well done!
Nice that you can add receptacles. Our slides quit working on our Sunset Trail and it ended up being a faulty wire nut. The wires melted a hole through it so it was replaced with a buss terminal. They were ground wires. While looking for the fault, I found some blade fuses behind the control center panel. Very poor engineering. At least those weren't 120 volt fuses.
So thankful Jarrod. You're video is great, and I'm a teacher so I know what great instruction is:)
Could I ask a quick question? I want to add a 100 outlet in an upper bunk 3 feet above the 110 outlet in the lower bunk. It looks like the wire comes down from the roof to the outlet and then back up. Can I just wire in another outlet in wither wire? They're so easy to get to!
I replaced the outlet next to the bed and the one under the dinette. I used old work boxes since I replaced the cheep RV outlets with outlets that have a USB charger. Works great for charging the phones.
Great Idea
New RV start put them in but you need AC power if only USB plug and it on House battery
Great video. I want to add an outlet in my RV basement, just as you did. However can not find an outlet close to the basement to tap into. Any suggestions? Would be very difficult to run / fish a wire from the breaker box because the breaker box is in the rear of the RV.
Always learn from you Jared. Thank you my friend
Good lord im so lost. Think I'll just hire you lol
Should also note that those blue “remodel” electrical boxes come in different depths. 👍🏽
Nice Job
Thanks!
Wago lever wire connections are the best especially in an RV environment. Though I will say the way you did your wire nuts are unlikely to fail. Thanks for the video.
Love Wago, actually left a post above for him to use those next time. Most people don't know about them. They are now my go to for house or rv.
@@lwadeallen you have sure you're buying the right size for the gauge of wire read package if to loose will vibrate off
Nice video! If I wanted to add another electrical outlet for a 15A - 1500 w fireplace in my Travel Trailer how do I run the wires? Dealership is outrageously expensive.
Might want to check out WAGO connectors instead of wire nuts.
good video buddy just be mindful GFI protection plugs there is a difference in line and load and how it is wired safe travels buddy
Good to know - thanks for sharing. I don't really understand what you're talking about but here is what it does: it creates a little red flag in my brain and if I work on a GFI in the future if will think there is something to do with the loads on these guys and I need to make sure I know what I'm doing.
@@mondavou9408 it is written on the back of a standard GFI protected plug line would be the hot coming from the breaker box load is every plug after the GFI if you hook that up backwards the plugs past the GFI will not work correctly I am an electrician buddy
@@foreverfixin I think you mistyped there. Line is power in from the breaker and load is power out from the outlet. Load side is the GFI protected side.
@@LoudRam u may be right let me look it up
You didn’t have to add the third wire for your ground connection. If you had used a ground wire nut (green), they have a hole in the middle. You leave extra wire on one of the grounds and it protrudes through the hole,with enough left to make your connection. Saves space and one less wire to come loose.
Very well done install and very well explained. Ironically, your last comment was not followed. You put half sized Eaton Breakers in the electrical panel that was full of Siemens breakers. Have to assume it was a Siemens panel without seeing the label.
You obviously have read NEC! Please go to Article 100 Definitions and look up “outlet” and “receptacle”.
Respectfully, Kevin
Do you have a video on adding 12v outlets?
Did the black felt-covered removable panels that your outlet and transfer switch is on come w/ the RV or did you add those?
Shouldn’t we use stranded copper wires instead of solid ones in travel trailers and motorhomes ?
The trailer manufacturers use solid conductors for AC (15amp and 20amp) and stranded for DC and 30amp AC in the trailers I've worked on. It's safe and the connections are more solid because as he showed in the video, you can twist them so that they won't separate.
Ay idea how to find studs in the wall between rooms? Its not obvious by knocking or even with a stud finder.
Where did you get the zip ties that let you screw them to things?
I use Romex made for boats. Tougher and way more flexible.
So is normal house 14/3 Romex wire ok for RVs or should you use a marine grade wire for any 120volt outlets?
I have one of those 15amp quick connect outlets that was cracked and I tried to replace it but could not get the back of receptacle back on. I finally gave up. Now I'm looking for a blue shallow box to use a regular household receptacle. I got the receptacle but not the box. The boxes are too deep and I don't have space in the ceiling. There's like may 2 to 2.5" depth in the ceiling. MY receptacle has 2 romex wires going to it. The wall out let is in the middle of a circuit. Where can you find these shallow boxes?
What are your thoughts on wire nuts for RV use? My understanding is that wire nuts aren't meant for the vibration, shaking, etc of a 'vehicle'
Edit: you answered my question if I had only watched the whole video!
We have a burned out part of our junction box- do you think I should replace my junction box?
You should come to WA and install a system on my 2022 surveyor!
Great video and explanation. I have been household wiring for years and never knew that the boxes had a limit on the amount of wire in them:)
With your new RV, have you found that each circuit has sufficient capacity to handle the extra load after adding another breaker?
On my new MH, they wired the inverter to a single receptacle that feeds the res fridge. I know the inverter has the capacity to feed some more outlets and want to wire up one for my cpap. Not sure if I should try to go back through the breaker panel or try to run a new line to the bedroom. If you have dealt with this before or could do a video it would be great. I hear in the forums many people dealing with it on their new coaches. Not sure why the manufacturers won’t deal with it from the factory.
The capacity has been great and no issues. I do wish the manufacturers would change the way they prep which is a bit outdated. But that said, How I like to set it up is not how I would expect manufacturers to because of the complexity. Here is our setup to not have to pick and chose what we want to be on the inverter.ua-cam.com/video/gbKBoIvXNPA/v-deo.html
@@AllAboutRVs thanks so much
We took our power awning off because we added a sunroom (permanent site ) can we use the wires from the power awning and add an outlet ?
Try wago connectors instead of wire nuts. They won’t rattle loose.
Hello, I've recently started living in my rv full time and am frustrated with the lack of outlets. I have an idea of replacing one of the light fixtures with an outlet, so that I can have an outlet in a more convenient place near the couch to charge devices. I understand that the light is 12V so I can't plug anything into it that draws too much power. But would this be possible?
💗
Lol Did I hear you say you do this stuff on the side? 😂😂😂
What is your opinion on using WAGO connectors vs. wire nuts in this type of application?
I like WAGO connectors, I would use them.
So my CO2 detector has a black and white, hot and neutral I presume. However when I put my tap tester to it it doesn't indicate that it's hot. Is this a low voltage issue?
How common is it to use solid romex wiring in RVs? My understanding is that stranded wire should be used instead to avoid work hardening and breakage from road vibration.
My understanding is that stranded wire is required by code in
RV's
I was hoping that maybe you or someone in the comments would be able to help me out with figuring out how to wire up a solar power system into a pre-existing system, for example my water pump and lights all run on the electrical already set in the rv, and I would like to transfer those onto my new solar (batteries) power system, if you or anyone can help me figure this out I would very much appreciate it.
what you call cut in box the Real Name is (Old Job box or old work box) some box store may not know what you are take about (call it cut boxes) As electrician school in that romex is one wire in and wire out is One wire if second wire in is two wire. pigtail wire is one 2020 NEC code you only hook two on one side of receptacle I may look it up may change One wire hook to receptacle and pigtail wire is the same as the wire coming to box. Why only two wire two one side the jumper metal in receptacle was over heat jump Next time run romex in blue conduit . Keep you safe
what wires did you use ...??
What is the title of your previous video?
Are the breakers just residential breakers or do RV mfg use breakers made specifically for RVs? Also, I realize you prefer not to use the RV outlets, but if you have to, where do you get them from? Finally, your how-to videos are great, but I'm always struck by how calm and quiet it is when you film them....since I believe you are a full-time RVer, do you chase your family off when its time to film? :-)
Just residential breakers. Nothing special, at least not in my RV.
Yes they are normal breakers. I found the same type at Home Depot.
some time depend who make the breaker panel Not all breaker fit right .
If you need the RV type outlets I'd check online first but I bought one at a small RV Supply store. They had dozens of them. I replaced several of them because they were 30 years old and had arcing and leakage problems that was transferring a brass coating from one terminal to the wires.
Where was the GFI?
For use in an RV I would consider a dab of solder on each connection before the wire nut and tape.
I'm going to disagree. Solder shouldn't be used in wire connection on something that moves. It actually can cause problems. My dad is an old airplane mechanic and solder is a no-no because of failures. Probably unlikely with solid core wire but with stranded wire you can wick solder up the wire and cause a point of failer when the wire is moving.
twisting wire is the best the power flow on the surface of copper or aluminum wire especially not solder (aluminum wire) I say low volt ok solder. Why you may add more resistance to the wire
I'm confused tho, I thought you had installed an automatic transfer switch and I'm seeing a manual one in this video
Each wire counts as one
All grounds counts as one
The outlet counts as two
ah.....ok......
Nice, RV plugs SUCK they are hard to work on.
Umm, Romex must be protected! It's not rated to be exposed to physical damage. I'm pretty sure the low voltage wire cover you showed is not approved for that. MC cable would be just as easy and fully code compliant. You might also consult a master electrician on your wire nut technique. There's a lot more to wirenuts than twisting!
Lol none of the romex in my brand new camper I picked up today is protected.
Very overcomplicated. Not that I didn't understand, but that a lot of what you did was unneeded
Just don’t. You don’t need “extra outlets” in a box where you can touch opposite walls by stretching out your arms. This is travel trailer not a potting shed. Leave it as built.
Thanks!