Tile Floor Layout and Installation: Tile Coach Episode 1
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Professional tile contractor Isaac O. shows how to layout and install a tile bathroom floor. Discusses tools needed and how different types of tile will affect the execution of the installation process.
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Thanks so much Isaac. You instructions were very detailed and understanding.
I learned the 3,4,5 in college. I'm not the smartest cookie but when you started talking about it,I knew exactly what you were going to do. Good job.
Man you came along way from 10 years ago. Now you’re all about making the trial lines all in one direction like there supposed to be compared to back then you just had them trial marks in every which direction lol
Very good video. What was helpful, and yet obvious, is the squaring of the room, and the importance of the width of thegrout joint.
Doing my first ever floor tiling tonight for my sister in law.. Watched your excellent video and now i'm pretty confident. The explanation was so easy to follow. Many thanks
Thank you, bro - for sharing your expertise and for the clear instructions. I am about to lay 750sq ft of 18" tile in our home on a concrete sub floor and have NEVER laid a piece of tile in my life. It is videos like the one you put together that is giving me the confidence to tackle this job. Very grateful...
Thank you Isaac. We start in the morning. I am using Versabond Fortified Thinset. I hope that is considered "good thinset"! 18" diagonal.
Glen Littell ...just wondering how your project went? : )
Scott Corris My wife is SO HAPPY! Could not believe how SORE I got and the job took a little longer than anticipated. I let things dry REALLY well before putting in the grout and sealed and resealed it all. At the very end of the job I had my grout lines get a little larger than my original 1/8" and was nothing I could do about it but using a light colored grout covered that nicely (and the couch on top of it did also). This video and the great advice I got from people like you helped give me the confidence to tackle this job and saved my family a LOT of money! THANK YOU!
that floor will have air pockets because of bad troweling methods. Make the trowel lines all the go same direction to eliminate pockets, set tile and give it a left then right shift, or front to back depending on direction of grooves. This will create a 99% coverage on the back of the tile, give it a shot, it will save you from having to go fix all of your jobs later down the road
J Cork to
Isaac Ostrom amen brother! I've done it the same way and haven't had any issues!!! I go in whatever direction I want to!
Perfect! You just explained to me what other 20 or maybe 30 videos all together did not. Thank you so much for the video, I just wish you had your business around Boston.
3, 4, 5... love the explanation man thanks
“It’s on” whisper @ 9:55 lol .. great videos man.. will be learning a ton from these. Thank you
Old video but still very helpful. Thanks!
Lol, changed your ways a bit since this video. I think back to my early years and cringe sometimes. Not only do I do flooring but I also build houses and techniques have changed greatly in the last 20 years!
Excellent Isaac! Your explanation is clear and concise. Thank you!
Mmmmm...should have trowel lines in one direction with a side to side wiggle. It creates a better connection & less air pockets.
Did have a lot of great info though.
It doesnt matter the way you trowel its urban legend
Wow you have come a long way
It's good that the room is level, here in Aus we still have fall outside the shower screens and in front of the bath ect. If I may suggest something though, with large format tiles like these and I come across these a lot in wet area floors, I use a 12mm notch trowel to really ensure adequate adhesion behind the tile, the bigger notch trowel also helps level out the tiles if the sub straight is un true. Thanks for the video :)
Really appreciate your help. God bless
That’s show that we learn as we grow few rook mistakes there that sure will be a nice content for a video where you judge your self and how things was 10 years ago
Do you always thinset your cement board down ? Years ago we didn't and Now we do,wondering if you ever skipped thinsetting your cement board down.
why not back butter your tile
What a refreshing, informative video! Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Hope to see more down the road.
best video explaining layout!
i like the way you layout
Nice old video ❤ Isaac
Easy to watch.!!
Thank you so much you are the best
Could you please make a detailed video for tiles but in unsequar room?
Thanks again
Hi Isaac,
thanks for the helpful tips on squaring up a room. I have basically a square shaped living room and want to tile around the boarder of it, basically the walk ways, 3 feet all around, or frame it 3 feet, and wanted to know what is the best way to start my tile so I do not run into problems and the tile does not fit perfectly against the walls.
Also, I have found that instead of adding thinset to the tile and then trying to determine if one side or the other will be too high or low, if you simply put the dry tile down on the floor beside the others, it gives you a pretty good idea of which side of the tile is too high or low. Saves from the trial and error of applying thinset on the floor or tile and then having to break the seal /suction and pull it up again. Just a rough idea that works for me. If the application of the thinset is consistent, and the grooves on the trowel allow for it, then the only variable is the evenness (or not) of the floor, no?
excellent video! thanks guys!
When you snapped your initial line, what did you use as your reference point to get your straight line? If your cabinets were not straight it would have made your straight line crooked.
LoL, I had to do a doubletake! You look like a teenager :D 2012 You've been doing this a while!
Please explain why you’re not back buttering those tiles
Thanks Isaac. I can never get the cuts right. I don't understand if you are supposed to leave a grout line against the wall or other edges. I am tiling the floor and kitchen area of our Church and I really want it to come out right. I have learnt more on this video than many others I have watched.
Good and easy to understand although being a novice, i would have liked to see how you mark and cut tiles to fit in the ends.
Thank Isaac. Can you do a video for a really bad out of square open-plan room? And how to layout?
We were in a very bad predicament in our home renovation. We had a large open plan area that led from the front door straight into the kitchen. In the living area we are going to use (90x20cm) planks and slabs (120x60cm) in the kitchen. The walls weren’t straight. (Think of the room layout as shape of the letter q).
I decided that it would be best that when we open our front door, the planks were straight but what this means is that our slabs in the kitchen have about 35-40mm slant. Hopefully the island and cabinets mask the deviation. My old man was more concerned about making sure the kitchen looked square.
Given that first impressions are made when you walk through the front door, you don’t want the tiles veering off we decided to go with my opinion. Hope that makes sense (and I really hope that you think my decision was the correct one. Please confirm 🙂 )
Great youtube channel, Isaac. Well done!
@@TileCoach I'll send some info to melissa's email address.
@@TileCoach I mean Marissa. Oy.
Correct me if I’m wrong but it didn’t look like you cut the doorjam correctly..are you supposed to do the whole thing?
How do you find the reference point? That’s the only part that I do not understand. For example, if I am doing tile in a house, how do I determine which wall I am using to measure from and set my first line of the triangle? Do I look for the longest wall in the house? What if my longest wall of the house is out of square?
thank you
Can't go wrong with hanes.
two foot square tiles can be nightmare to fit if floor is not so good but still prefer them to two foot by a foot ones laid brick effect , hard to avoid lipping then !!?? good vid
You should have used 1/2 inch trowel that tile is going to pop up in about a year
I bought a tile puck that you slide over the tile and its make a clicking noise when there is lippage. The louder the click the bigger the lip. Costs like 12 dollars on Amazon but it works like a charm no more uneven tiles though it does add to the length of time for the job having to sit there and build up or build down the mortar in sometimes in all four directions depending on how uneven the floor is. I always tells customers to go with bigger grout lines. Though if they insist on a 1/8 or smaller I will only do it on small areas like bathrooms or small kitchens. I had somebody recently who wanted 800 square feed done with a 1/16 grout line and I said no way.
Ryan because your still amateur men
When you said you measured of the cabinet. How far away from the cabinet do you want to make your line? Do you find the middle between the wall and cabinet?
Getting ready to install my first bathroom floor. Will use Ditra over plywood. Does the Schulter metal trim at the bathroom door threshold go over or under the Ditra? Do I just use thinset to instill the metal trim like the walls? Thanks.
Isaac thanks for opening my eyes. I still don't understand how you squared the restroom. Do you know where I can learn that?
Nice vid bro!
Excellent video. If you are laying tiles in a regular square pattern, should your borders match? I know you mentioned having a full tile at the doorway.
Will be tiling my guest bathroom tomorrow, first time! I am excited to learn but have a question. Before laying backer board there was a little bit of the underlayment from the previous floor that wouldn't come up, will that screw me later? I used thin set and 1/4" wonder board. Second concern is at every joint it seems the floor slightly "crowns" so is not flat! What is the best way to remedy this? Thanks for your help!
awesome video just quick question, i'm doing my small bathroom and my plan was to pull up old laminet and old plywood and put down cement board over the floor secured with screws. Should I use a bonding agent to help secure the cement board to the floor? thanks for the help!
No, the screws will do. Hopefully the floor has been done by now
I don't quite get it. What if the room itself is not square? How do you decide how to lay the first chalk line? It's not parallel to anything.
Great instructional video, but arent thinset lines supose to go in the same direction to get out any air pockets? also dont you back butter tiles?
@@TileCoach Yeah I just realized that.
Thank you, i appreciate it!
I’m installing tile in a whole house. As I tile from a hallway into a bedroom, how do I avoid tiling myself into a corner and having to walk on the newly laid tile to get out?
Mat Hon probably too late but 1) tile two lines of full tile that run in to the bathroom from the hallway, that way next day they’ll be dry and you can stand in them and make any cuts needed to tile the bath floor. 2) dry set the bath floor and when done with every cut being dry set, Work your way back
so are suppose to lay a board done under your tile. before laying the floor
I have a simple galley style bathroom - with a narrow opening where the doorway is and then it gets larger where the sink / vanity is. Where along that room should I start laying tile in a corner of the room or the center , the way I see it if I do the center I might have small pieces all the way around, Did you center in the middle of the room and then just start laying form the entry to the other wall ? Was the edge of the tile on the chalk line or on one wall ...That first tile is my question.
Stix I usually start off the longest wall in the room. That way you have the longest possible run of full tiles. Also that puts the cut under the toe kick of the vanity. Layout is a tricky thing tho, there are no set rules and what often sets good tile setters apart. In this video, I snapped the line for my first full tile off the longest wall. I also like a full tile at the doorway...unless it leaves me a really small (2" or less) cut at the front of the tub. Hope that helps!
***** Yes this Bathroom has the vanity on the left side and tub on the right and toilet next to the tub at the end of the wall. The room has what I call a narrow box at the entrance way 30L x 33W (opposite the toilet) that is offset from the main area 55L x 50W. The entrance 'box' is positioned 10.25 in from the vanity side of the larger area with tub vanity and toilet So if I center for the entrance things look messed up in the main area , if I center for the main area the entrance way looks messed up, so I thought tile from the vanity side to the tub side and that looks good until I get to the entrance and so the grout lines do not look right - so I thought I will diamond out this area even if the grout line from the main area does not line up in the cente rof a diamond but would be offset. The other thing I am thinking is to just diamond the whole thing - more cutting [more time]. It sure is not as easy as some make it look. Since entering the bathroom is not noticeable I thought to put the full at the toilet end of the wall and nip an inch off at the entry threshold since it will be covered anyway it will not be noticeable (they go under the wood threshold).
I did the diamond through out - I think for odd ball areas this is probably a better way to go. The hardest part was the mastic - I had to build up a layer to match the original - toilet pipe etc. almost 2" CRAZY.
I laid the pattern out first to see what it would look like before I began - trying different configurations , end the end the diamond approach made the most aesthetic sense. Took longer with the additional cuts but worth it in the end.
Nice job,but abouth in 12x24 tile in diagonal.
Isaac, my 1st tile job and I didn't put mortar under my 1/2" permabase. Should I unscrew the whole thing and bond it?
If I am using a 1/2" cement board, do I need to use thin-set on top of the OSB/Plywood or is it okay to just screw the board down.?
@11:13 "you can see the coverage on the tile"
I'm sorry dude, but there isn't any coverage because your trowel ridges are not straight, you are not collapsing the ridges
Yep lol high heel could snap it
Isaac O., nice video, helpful indeed. Can this home owner bother you with a few questions about a small floor tile project? I'm tiling our landing with 12" tiles; the landing is only 36 X 36 inches! Very high traffic, I imagine a 36X36 piece of cement board would be in order? I want no tripping lips, and so no bullnose. Since I'm also tiling the "face" of the landing, can I just grout thick right at that angle? Which tile is on top, the landing, or the face piece? Follow? Thanks! Scott C
wow! You did not bond coat the backer board, push, beat or wiggle tile to remove air to increase coverage on bottom of tile ! Should be single directional rake of thinset, not multiple directions ,swirls. Watch the TCNA , BASIC video called "Towel and error".
how did you get that diagonal line for the tile. you didn't explain that? :(
He looks like Murphy from RoboCop
Thank you for the video, I myself learned much from it. And to those know it all comments. I suggest you grout your ass cheeks together and stop watching UA-cam videos since you think you know it all. My mom said. Those that think they know it all don't know shit because they "think" too much of themselves 😜
Notched trowel is too small
it's a big enough notch trowel if you back butter the tiles and the floor is level. A bigger notch trowel is always the best way to ensure adhesion.
When it doubt can always back butter any tile larger than 300x300 depending on sub straight.
Sent from my iPhone
no skim tiles?
at 9:13 you realize that 3/16" is smaller than 1/8", yeah?
redwhitentrue 1/8 is 2/16, which is smaller than 3/16
dumbass
You are correct. I was wrong and I do apologize. I did indeed make a dumbass comment. That week I had a custom continuing 5/16" cross/lateral offset project in my head. The simple fraction error was my mistake, sir.
I'm sorry and regretful for my comment.
Pretty sure your supost to use 1/2 in trowel not 1/4
Video did help me alot tho
For regular citizens? You dont 345etc? I know room is small.
He has the beadiest eyes. Distinctive for sure!!
man setting of tile is really bad, but this was 8 years ago, Isac is now much much better. I mean, now he is good, but tile installation at 11:30 was really bad. No back buttering, ridges are not straight, coverage is very bad.
👍👍🍻
did you hear her say "it's on"? lol
How can I get of hold of you Isaac? What school did you go to?
Oh sorry, lol, I meant where did you learn to do tile? What fascinates me is why you drew a line from the door entrance, and I why you measured off of the cabinets. The long line from the room; does it matter where it hits on part of the tub or the wall?
Then use the 1/2" duh. That's how you know you ain't thinking right
@@TileCoach oh snap! Popsicle sticks! I'm late! (Slowly walking out backwards)
if you do it properly, you wouldn't be able to just pop those tiles up and down, so funny tho
The way you used to dress compare to now lol
SOOOO much information MISSING. How do you get the first line? He said you take the long wall and "mark it". Wtf does that mean? 2ft away? The width of the tile? He take two points off the long wall and then connect them with the chaulk line? Just a random line some unknown distance away from the cabinets. THIS is what makes it a bad video. Has to be repeatable in real life. Geeze.
Richtiger Anfänger ......
3/16 = amateure job