I knew that tilers got nice straight lines and finishes but I never realized how much work went into the preparation to get it all worked out. Great learning experience.
What a great tutorial. I've done lots of different construction throughout my life, now I'm going to remodel my master bathroom. Recently I bought a 3-axis laser level for this job. After watching this video my confidence level went up several notches. Thank you Tilecoach.
Great video! You are a true craftsman. About to do our entire home with tile so I'll be bingeing videos on your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
God Bless You Sir! I enjoy your videos I don't lay tile but it's amazing to watch someone who cares about what they really do. Love you to sir. May the Lord Bless the Work of Your Hands and Your Family as Well and All they Do!
9:22 I agree, having the tiles compliment that room layout looks better, it flows more naturally having the tiles lengthwise matching the narrower room A tiler also told me that he sets up full tiles along whatever edge you first see when you walk into the room, as your eye naturally tracks to that edge, so making the tiles full at that edge makes for a more professional looking job. Any tiles that you need to cut would then go against the opposite side of the room
Great explanation there pal. I appreciate this. Its a Sunday morning here and my wife and I are about to embark on our first tiling experience! Have a great day 😊
I've been looking at lasers for this same purpose. Which model do you have and what should I be looking for in a laser level to do my own porcelain kitchen floor? Great video by thee way.
@@TileCoach I was also wondering. Wouldn't keying the mud in first fill the voids more? Or does the TCNA have any direction on that? This is a serious question I really want to know the answer to
@@AdventureswithGeneral i suppose it is writen that way but think about it and really watch him spreading the thin set. between the protruding notches on the trowel are flat sections and that acts like a flat trowel, so as he is spreading those flat sections are keying the thin set into the ditra and he is pressing down fairly hard many times. as you watch you can clearly see it being keyed in between the notches and its being done everywhere. now if you just scooped out some thinset and didnt press down all the way and just loosly pressed down adding a kind of thicker layer to the floor, you wouldnt be keying it in and in that case you would of needed to pre key in the thin set with the flat side of trowel. i see this reply alot on these videos, mainly people complaining that the setter is doing it wrong but if you actually watch what the thinset is doing while they are spreading, you will see that they are indeed burning it in, its just that its happening in one step..
@frankcatrini4816 and if the thinset is thin enough (admitted not too thin lol) it would almost fill on its own. Just curious about what the written codes are
@@AdventureswithGeneral yes you are correct...as for rules on it, im not actually sure, I do know it is stated on certain thinsets and cements so its definitely recommended . It doesn't take long to do, especially on smoother cement floors and wood substrates, so its a good practice to do for sure but redundant at the same time.
I bought one of these 3 axis lasers because they are so useful. They are all made in China, but they do the job at half the price, but I am just a homeowner not at tile guy. I could buy two of the inexpensive ones for the price of Dewalt.
Hello ,when you talk about the spacers at 14minutes 20 second it sounds like you say re up and buy , can you explain as my English is a work in progress . I have learnt so much from your vids , thank you
Tho I don't do tile, I've discovered that the laser is fantastic for layout and checking squareness. Knowing what is straight, parallel and perpendicular makes for easier decisions. With a tight string on the floor, you can only measure to the toe kicks and baseboards. A laser is everywhere. It's in the next room, it's on the walls, it's at every elevation. Let's say the toe kicks are off 3/8 of an inch. With a string on the floor, it limits what you can measure. With a laser, you can measure to the toe kick, then immediately above the toe kick to the wall. You immediately know if the toe kick is out of whack. Just saying that with a string, you are very limited as to what you can measure. With the laser you can even measure into the outside of the room that you're working in to ensure you're parallel to a common wall. ...and you can't trip over a laser line. 😁
I like using the clips but I use the 16th in with an 8th in horseshoe spacer because the clips tend to twist a bit and i dont feel you get consistent spacing. Before using the horseshoe spacers I used to use a rubber mallet to nudge the tiles
Have you run into a situation where a customer asked you to use the leftover tiles from another area and bought more for the work, but ended up another batch of tiles that slightly different color than the left over ones because they don't make that color anymore? It happened to me recently and I didn't check. The store the customer bought from say it's the same tiles according to their system but it doesn't match the color. It was the 12x24 tile. I didn't notice it until half way through the job. My customer decided to keep them in rather than redoing them from the new batch.
The tiles were from different dyelots. Its small variations of color from different batches. Tile distributors usually(or should) keep records of which dyelot on your purchase order so it can be matched later on.
I see. I think the store couldn't get their hands on the tiles and decided to give them from a different batch. The tiles my customer bought was over 5 years ago. I guess the best way is to check all the tiles first before installing them.
hi, when tiling over a wooden floor (making sure the sub-structure is rigid) what would you put down, cement board or structural plywood to tile over? Thanks
To each their own I hate cut tiles on one side of the room if possible, border tiles around the perimeter room with all tiles in the middle whole tiles not always possible admittedly, leveling clips can’t stand them. I find it easier to level without them.
I'm just thiniking to myself how do you get all the tiles a level height, and that's what the clip wedges are for? You are awesome man, If I watch enough of your vids I may even attempt doing my bathroom floor. Thanks for the outstanding vids!
Man, definitely investing the leveling clips and the tool. I did 2 jobs for a comparison in my house. The 1st one did not have clips and I struggled to keep tiles flat without slippage. For the 2nd one I got the leveling clips, and it was easy. Just remember to do a ton of homework before you start doing anything. Type of the tile, type of the thinset, type of grout, underlayment if needed, floor level, measurements between walls, tile layout. You better over think than under think lol
Great video, although I remodeled bathrooms for many years and im unsure why you wouldnt try to have the grout joint in the middle of the doorway opening? While youre lasering your lines out and measuring if you just put your level in the middle of the doorway and measure off of that, why not do it that way so its split perfectly? Im actually curious if im doing it wrong or if this is just personal preference/
why not flat coat those wires down today and leave then tomorow you can use chalkline and not risk damaging wires..seems risky if you have to lift a tile also ripping wires off the ditra..backassward if you ask me...
How dare you do 50% offset with 12x24. Did you go to the star tile school of tiling? I am joking, of course. In all seriousness though. Didn't that big ass crack in the concrete create a high spot?
I can't believe that the US is still using fractions of an inch as a unit of measure in 2023. Time to go metric guys, it's so much easier and straight forward. 10 mm in 1 cm, 10 cm in 1 metre, 1000 metres in 1 km ...............
Learn fractions budster! A dying mathematical art and science! Sad if you only ever learned things in 1/10. Hours, days, minutes, months don't apply to your beautiful base 10 system!
You need to fill all the recesses in with the flat side of the trowel before you start combing the thin set in. Super important, will void the warranty.
There is nothing ergonomic about those pliers. Absolutely wrecked my hand the first time I used them. I would strongly recommend the Marshalltown tile levelers. No tools needed, just screw them on. They also don't push your tiles around the way the wedge ones do.
Amazing video!👍 Hello Tile Coach, We're a 9 years high accuracy laser level manufacturer. We'd be happy to invite you to test our products if you want.
This is a perfect example of someone who has done the job for so long that they can talk about it, but not explain it. The whole section in the middle with the two lasers is really poorly explained. I still have no idea how to do the layout correctly. 2/10
I thought this guy was alright until he started this lay out crap. Talking about where certain tiles are going to go and stuff. He is doing it wrong! You are supposed to decide the main focal point of the layout which would be the main area of the bathroom and start in the center laying a row. The objective is to have the same size cuts on each opposite walls. So he is talking 12 inches along the tub and 9 inches at the cabinets. That is wrong! he is supposed to take 9 from 12cand divide by 2 which would be 1½ inches then minus 1½ from 12 and so now you know to make each side 10½ inches wide. With tile you want symmetry. This guy is an awful tile coach.
A tiler told me that you align full tiles against the wall that first catches your eye as you walk into a room, then the opposite side of the room is the wall you cut the tiles on What your talking about is full symmetry which is very time consuming and doesn't work out too well if the whole room is out of square because you end up with one edge with tiles different in size than another edge But yeah, your method if technically the best but doesn't always work out the best
This is so bush league. First, you don't need to worry about how square the walls are perpendicular to the tub and vanity. Any small degree of out of square will be hidden by the tile offset. Second, if your strategy is "to figure out where to start with a full tile" you're doing it wrong. What are the chances that the best tile layout coincidentally contains a full tile against one of the walls/doorways? Answer: almost zero. You've spent all this time with lasers, and marks, and measurements, and the outcome was to slap full tiles against the tub. Which is exactly what someone would have done without any of the lasering amd measuring... Third, you've got the ditra heat cable in some no-no areas in a couple spots. might want to go back and read the instructions. Finally, and most ridiculously, YOU DON'T FILL THE DITRA WITH THINSET BEFORE COMBING THE THINSET FOR TILE!? Wow, just wow...
i dont think he is lame, but in a way you are right. he could of checked more walls and centered things a bit bettter instead of thinking about full tiles
Line laser levels also really help in the marine construction where in old days (and many still do it today) they also used the 345 method to determine where to run a string line so that it is 90 degrees with another string line. That really becomes difficult on days where the water is rough and you're bobbing up a down. A line laser level gives you both a line and another line that is already tuned at 90 degrees with the other laser line and so you can easily determine where 90 degrees is even at long distances away. There is no other tool that gives you a long range 90 degrees except a laser level. All you need is a receiver to find the line and that's where 90 degrees is.
Can someone clarify, he knew he was gonna start with a full tile 1/16” off the tub. So why did he need he start the 2nd row out and in the middle of the floor?
Could you include a link to the laser website, or a site where it can be purchased? I don't even know how to spell the name, which makes online searching difficult. (whahoooeeee? I doubt it ; )
I just went to a part one schluder class and they say to use the straight edge side of the trowel to really push the mortar down into the ditra then scrape it off the top of the ditra and then use the notch side and do your directional lines but I havnt learned much about ditra heat so I'm just curious if there was a reason you were not doing that it the video? Is it because of the 1/2 trowel u are using and umyou don't need too? Or do I even need to do this? I'd like to know your thoughts on that. Thanks for all this great information!
Hey Coach please explain to me how schluter is the biggest name in the game and you can buy their entire system at any big box store EXCEPT THE DAMN SCHLUTER MORTAR!!! They sell everything but the 1 thing you need to put it together its like selling lumber without nails. The only mortar around me is versabond. I have no other options and to get all set the shipping is more than the product. 80$ a bag. I'm struggling to find a decent mortar for my ditra heat and shower tile. Any reccomendations I'd greatly appreciate.
Essentially, grout line widths used to solve that problem. Back 15-20 years ago. When they were 3/16. You could "Dutch" a line a little skinnier here and there to square out areas. It was also a way to have full pieces at perimeter when using smaller tiles. Now the tiles are twice the size or more. So grout lines aren't used as measurement aids anymore.
I am NOT saying we have the right way to do shit where i live but, not removing the skirting board when renovating shit drives me absolutely nuts. The installation on them seems more permanent, i admit but still. I hate how things look when theyve been painted over a few times..
Great video. But where is the fokn free tile layout app in this industry!!? Simply draw out your dimensions, enter tile size and grout size, then preferred orientation. And boom, you get your layout with cut list and numbered. Very basic. Decking industry has multiple.
I knew that tilers got nice straight lines and finishes but I never realized how much work went into the preparation to get it all worked out. Great learning experience.
What a great tutorial. I've done lots of different construction throughout my life, now I'm going to remodel my master bathroom. Recently I bought a 3-axis laser level for this job. After watching this video my confidence level went up several notches. Thank you Tilecoach.
I didn't know Robbie Lawler was a tile coach. Good content, informative, thank you.
All ESFP bro’s look alike haha. Issac is the man 😎
Great video! You are a true craftsman. About to do our entire home with tile so I'll be bingeing videos on your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
God Bless You Sir! I enjoy your videos I don't lay tile but it's amazing to watch someone who cares about what they really do. Love you to sir. May the Lord Bless the Work of Your Hands and Your Family as Well and All they Do!
The tape on the wall is a great orientation method, I'll be using that, thanks!
I really hope my bathroom will look half as good as the work you do. Trying to learn at much as i can. Your videos help a lot. Thank you
You put a lot of faith into that peel and stick. I could never be talked into trusting it. But good luck.
These videos are incredibly satisfying to watch.
I love that you watch!
9:22 I agree, having the tiles compliment that room layout looks better, it flows more naturally having the tiles lengthwise matching the narrower room
A tiler also told me that he sets up full tiles along whatever edge you first see when you walk into the room, as your eye naturally tracks to that edge, so making the tiles full at that edge makes for a more professional looking job. Any tiles that you need to cut would then go against the opposite side of the room
really like these layout videos, always helpful!
Great explanation there pal. I appreciate this. Its a Sunday morning here and my wife and I are about to embark on our first tiling experience! Have a great day 😊
Great, detailed video. Great tips--you are an excellent teacher AND coach, Thank you!
Excellent information for a newbie like me. Thanks for posting😁👍
Love you, Tile Coach. Thank you for your commitment to being seen, being vulnerable and for sharing.
Youre welcome!
God Like
took almost half an hour just to set the first tile. surprisingly a lot more setup than i expected to tile a room.
That is nothing. Good work required good planning and good preparation.
The first row/layer always takes longer. Its gonna be the basis for everything else.
I've been looking at lasers for this same purpose. Which model do you have and what should I be looking for in a laser level to do my own porcelain kitchen floor? Great video by thee way.
Great video - thank you for sharing this wonderful content. The dado on the tile was awesome.
Look up the PLS 90. Best Lazer square out there. Accurate to 1/8" at 100ft
Isaac...... You need to use the flat side of the trowel first to fill the ditra heat then trowel your lines.
Why? What's the difference than doing it with the notch side?
@@TileCoach I was also wondering. Wouldn't keying the mud in first fill the voids more? Or does the TCNA have any direction on that? This is a serious question I really want to know the answer to
@@AdventureswithGeneral i suppose it is writen that way but think about it and really watch him spreading the thin set. between the protruding notches on the trowel are flat sections and that acts like a flat trowel, so as he is spreading those flat sections are keying the thin set into the ditra and he is pressing down fairly hard many times. as you watch you can clearly see it being keyed in between the notches and its being done everywhere. now if you just scooped out some thinset and didnt press down all the way and just loosly pressed down adding a kind of thicker layer to the floor, you wouldnt be keying it in and in that case you would of needed to pre key in the thin set with the flat side of trowel. i see this reply alot on these videos, mainly people complaining that the setter is doing it wrong but if you actually watch what the thinset is doing while they are spreading, you will see that they are indeed burning it in, its just that its happening in one step..
@frankcatrini4816 and if the thinset is thin enough (admitted not too thin lol) it would almost fill on its own. Just curious about what the written codes are
@@AdventureswithGeneral yes you are correct...as for rules on it, im not actually sure, I do know it is stated on certain thinsets and cements so its definitely recommended . It doesn't take long to do, especially on smoother cement floors and wood substrates, so its a good practice to do for sure but redundant at the same time.
Educational gold!!!
Thanks David!
Great explanation and demonstration
Thank you
Love your stuff! Thanks!
What I usually do is mark the long subfloor joints before I lay the Ditra and use those. They are usually right on.
I bought one of these 3 axis lasers because they are so useful. They are all made in China, but they do the job at half the price, but I am just a homeowner not at tile guy. I could buy two of the inexpensive ones for the price of Dewalt.
Real good informative video.. thanks a lot...
So what happens if the other run isn’t square? Where do we go from there?
Hello ,when you talk about the spacers at 14minutes 20 second it sounds like you say re up and buy , can you explain as my English is a work in progress . I have learnt so much from your vids , thank you
Tho I don't do tile, I've discovered that the laser is fantastic for layout and checking squareness. Knowing what is straight, parallel and perpendicular makes for easier decisions.
With a tight string on the floor, you can only measure to the toe kicks and baseboards.
A laser is everywhere. It's in the next room, it's on the walls, it's at every elevation. Let's say the toe kicks are off 3/8 of an inch. With a string on the floor, it limits what you can measure.
With a laser, you can measure to the toe kick, then immediately above the toe kick to the wall. You immediately know if the toe kick is out of whack.
Just saying that with a string, you are very limited as to what you can measure.
With the laser you can even measure into the outside of the room that you're working in to ensure you're parallel to a common wall.
...and you can't trip over a laser line. 😁
I like using the clips but I use the 16th in with an 8th in horseshoe spacer because the clips tend to twist a bit and i dont feel you get consistent spacing. Before using the horseshoe spacers I used to use a rubber mallet to nudge the tiles
Have you run into a situation where a customer asked you to use the leftover tiles from another area and bought more for the work, but ended up another batch of tiles that slightly different color than the left over ones because they don't make that color anymore? It happened to me recently and I didn't check. The store the customer bought from say it's the same tiles according to their system but it doesn't match the color. It was the 12x24 tile. I didn't notice it until half way through the job. My customer decided to keep them in rather than redoing them from the new batch.
The tiles were from different dyelots. Its small variations of color from different batches. Tile distributors usually(or should) keep records of which dyelot on your purchase order so it can be matched later on.
I see. I think the store couldn't get their hands on the tiles and decided to give them from a different batch. The tiles my customer bought was over 5 years ago. I guess the best way is to check all the tiles first before installing them.
Yes. It was miserable
can't believe some people still use body part and seed for measurement. Guys you should really update/evolve!
Is there any value on creating a tutorial on using a LASER for the VERTICAL surfaces of a walk-in shower?
Definitely...Will do!
@@TileCoach where the link for the laser coach
You not applying any thin set to the tile only on the floor ! Is that enough thin set ?
Good stuff !
nice job
Can you not start at the center of a room so the edges will be the same
How would you like to take a trip with me to Jamaica to tile my new house with 24 x 48 porcelain tiles?
Why didn't you just cut the base of the door jamb instead of cutting the tile around it? It would have been quicker and easier and looked better.
We did cut the jambs. Look closely.
@@TileCoach Yep, you really did. I don't know what I thought I saw when I made that comment. I probably didn't have my glasses on or something.
Thanks Issac. How do you keep your grout lines so clean when using the clips? I always make a mess
Man that secret juice wasn't as accessible back then...lot of growth if you know what I mean...I do appreciate the channel tho
Thanks Tony
When you say Huey like the helicopter is that a nickname for Huepar?
Bihui laser, retail price $299.00, thats pretty cheap, right?
why is that bathroom so wide? was there an ADA necessity?
hi, when tiling over a wooden floor (making sure the sub-structure is rigid) what would you put down, cement board or structural plywood to tile over? Thanks
why didn't you pull the base molding before tiling. I've always pulled molding then put it over the flooring.
Did you not watch the video…? 🥴 He spent like 3 mins explaining why…
Awesome job. One video that i truly like.
What laser is it and where can I get ? Thank you
I would have started in the toilet area and worked my way out but good job
As a customer, I would have made you remove the tiles and start over. I want to walk into my room and see a full tile at entry.
I’m lost guess this is for the more advanced tile layer.
There is too much measurement for me
What if your cabinets aren't square?
Nice vid! But dang! You looked 60 years old in 2012 lol
What laser do you recommend when doing tile? Thanks for the in depth video of your craftsmanship!!
Can you put a link to the laser level pls? Thanks
Buhui
To each their own I hate cut tiles on one side of the room if possible, border tiles around the perimeter room with all tiles in the middle whole tiles not always possible admittedly, leveling clips can’t stand them. I find it easier to level without them.
I used to be against clips too! Now I wont do a 12x24 without them. It's kinda like cheating...
👍👍😊
I'm just thiniking to myself how do you get all the tiles a level height, and that's what the clip wedges are for? You are awesome man, If I watch enough of your vids I may even attempt doing my bathroom floor. Thanks for the outstanding vids!
Man, definitely investing the leveling clips and the tool. I did 2 jobs for a comparison in my house. The 1st one did not have clips and I struggled to keep tiles flat without slippage. For the 2nd one I got the leveling clips, and it was easy. Just remember to do a ton of homework before you start doing anything. Type of the tile, type of the thinset, type of grout, underlayment if needed, floor level, measurements between walls, tile layout. You better over think than under think lol
Have you tried the Bihui levelers?
No I have not
@@TileCoach I think you would like them
Sir how to orde
Great video, although I remodeled bathrooms for many years and im unsure why you wouldnt try to have the grout joint in the middle of the doorway opening? While youre lasering your lines out and measuring if you just put your level in the middle of the doorway and measure off of that, why not do it that way so its split perfectly? Im actually curious if im doing it wrong or if this is just personal preference/
I thought you were supposed to flash over that prior to installing..
Isaac , are you trying to mislead diyers or are you not good at tile setting?
Thanks Steven. No alcohol, exercise, and a happy wife! I love my job too, makes a big difference.
What thinset did u use? Megalite?
All Set :)
U used the all set for warranty case later?
You guys really need to start using the metric system, I didnt understand a singel measurement 🤔🤔🤔
why not flat coat those wires down today and leave then tomorow you can use chalkline and not risk damaging wires..seems risky if you have to lift a tile also ripping wires off the ditra..backassward if you ask me...
How dare you do 50% offset with 12x24. Did you go to the star tile school of tiling?
I am joking, of course.
In all seriousness though. Didn't that big ass crack in the concrete create a high spot?
Haha...bend those tiles!!! The crack was completely flat...no vertical displacement. I went over that in the peel and stick video.
I can't believe that the US is still using fractions of an inch as a unit of measure in 2023. Time to go metric guys, it's so much easier and straight forward. 10 mm in 1 cm, 10 cm in 1 metre, 1000 metres in 1 km ...............
Oh wow I need to research this
What's metric😂
Yeah but it’s not the same
Or 100 cm in 1 meter, but who’s counting?
Learn fractions budster! A dying mathematical art and science! Sad if you only ever learned things in 1/10. Hours, days, minutes, months don't apply to your beautiful base 10 system!
You need to fill all the recesses in with the flat side of the trowel before you start combing the thin set in. Super important, will void the warranty.
i think those tiles are to tight on the original tiling
There is nothing ergonomic about those pliers. Absolutely wrecked my hand the first time I used them. I would strongly recommend the Marshalltown tile levelers. No tools needed, just screw them on. They also don't push your tiles around the way the wedge ones do.
Did you know they have an adjustment on them?
Also, the spin doctor caps can scratch and damage high gloss if there is any dry thinset on them. Personal experience...
Amazing video!👍 Hello Tile Coach, We're a 9 years high accuracy laser level manufacturer. We'd be happy to invite you to test our products if you want.
Double video ads in every 3 minutes. Well done...
This is a perfect example of someone who has done the job for so long that they can talk about it, but not explain it. The whole section in the middle with the two lasers is really poorly explained. I still have no idea how to do the layout correctly. 2/10
I hate maff.
Pythagorean theorem haha
Short guys love to lift weights.
Wow, that's your take away. Do some self reflection, please.
I guess. I see all sorts of sizes of people that like to stay strong into their 40's and 50's.
Take that baseboard off
Confusing as fuck
I thought this guy was alright until he started this lay out crap. Talking about where certain tiles are going to go and stuff. He is doing it wrong! You are supposed to decide the main focal point of the layout which would be the main area of the bathroom and start in the center laying a row. The objective is to have the same size cuts on each opposite walls. So he is talking 12 inches along the tub and 9 inches at the cabinets. That is wrong! he is supposed to take 9 from 12cand divide by 2 which would be 1½ inches then minus 1½ from 12 and so now you know to make each side 10½ inches wide. With tile you want symmetry. This guy is an awful tile coach.
A tiler told me that you align full tiles against the wall that first catches your eye as you walk into a room, then the opposite side of the room is the wall you cut the tiles on
What your talking about is full symmetry which is very time consuming and doesn't work out too well if the whole room is out of square because you end up with one edge with tiles different in size than another edge
But yeah, your method if technically the best but doesn't always work out the best
який же нікчемний ваш побут...мені вас шкода.
This is so bush league. First, you don't need to worry about how square the walls are perpendicular to the tub and vanity. Any small degree of out of square will be hidden by the tile offset. Second, if your strategy is "to figure out where to start with a full tile" you're doing it wrong. What are the chances that the best tile layout coincidentally contains a full tile against one of the walls/doorways? Answer: almost zero. You've spent all this time with lasers, and marks, and measurements, and the outcome was to slap full tiles against the tub. Which is exactly what someone would have done without any of the lasering amd measuring... Third, you've got the ditra heat cable in some no-no areas in a couple spots. might want to go back and read the instructions. Finally, and most ridiculously, YOU DON'T FILL THE DITRA WITH THINSET BEFORE COMBING THE THINSET FOR TILE!? Wow, just wow...
11 months and until now zero comments...😂
Dislike
You are lamer if you think that is the best way to make layout
Nice of you to leave such a helpful comment.
Where's your video?
i dont think he is lame, but in a way you are right. he could of checked more walls and centered things a bit bettter instead of thinking about full tiles
❤
Lol that’s what that 20 deg. Angle and half inch trowel was doing without flat troweling I believe
Line laser levels also really help in the marine construction where in old days (and many still do it today) they also used the 345 method to determine where to run a string line so that it is 90 degrees with another string line. That really becomes difficult on days where the water is rough and you're bobbing up a down. A line laser level gives you both a line and another line that is already tuned at 90 degrees with the other laser line and so you can easily determine where 90 degrees is even at long distances away. There is no other tool that gives you a long range 90 degrees except a laser level. All you need is a receiver to find the line and that's where 90 degrees is.
Isaac you're killing me! Burn the mud, then comb!!!!! Love your stuff and your attitude! I've learned a lot from you!
Can someone clarify, he knew he was gonna start with a full tile 1/16” off the tub. So why did he need he start the 2nd row out and in the middle of the floor?
Awesome video. Thanks for the in-depth info. So helpful!
It seems to me that if you had the laser level on a tripod you would be able to see your far away marks much easier.
Could you include a link to the laser website, or a site where it can be purchased? I don't even know how to spell the name, which makes online searching difficult. (whahoooeeee? I doubt it ; )
Amazon. Great lasers
Bihui laser
Amazon has a few different brands they are all good just need a 3D one
I just went to a part one schluder class and they say to use the straight edge side of the trowel to really push the mortar down into the ditra then scrape it off the top of the ditra and then use the notch side and do your directional lines but I havnt learned much about ditra heat so I'm just curious if there was a reason you were not doing that it the video? Is it because of the 1/2 trowel u are using and umyou don't need too? Or do I even need to do this? I'd like to know your thoughts on that. Thanks for all this great information!
Best way is to float the wire first let it dry day after ready so this way is faster to spread this set
are you using schluter thinset? or some generic stuff? how long do you have to work with the thinset? I am doing a project and want to go slow.
Hey Coach please explain to me how schluter is the biggest name in the game and you can buy their entire system at any big box store EXCEPT THE DAMN SCHLUTER MORTAR!!! They sell everything but the 1 thing you need to put it together its like selling lumber without nails. The only mortar around me is versabond. I have no other options and to get all set the shipping is more than the product. 80$ a bag. I'm struggling to find a decent mortar for my ditra heat and shower tile. Any reccomendations I'd greatly appreciate.
What's your level of tolerance for being out of square? 1/8" or 1/16"? Or other?
Essentially, grout line widths used to solve that problem. Back 15-20 years ago. When they were 3/16. You could "Dutch" a line a little skinnier here and there to square out areas. It was also a way to have full pieces at perimeter when using smaller tiles. Now the tiles are twice the size or more. So grout lines aren't used as measurement aids anymore.
The green lasers say they are accurate up to 1/16”..
thank you!!
Great video but that trim is not base shoe moulding(quarter round, classic homeowner mistake)
www.homedepot.com/p/FINISHED-ELEGANCE-WM129-7-16-in-x-11-16-in-Medium-Density-Fiberboard-MDF-Shoe-Molding-10001626/202738251
LevTek clips with Raimondi wedges all day for the win.
I am NOT saying we have the right way to do shit where i live but, not removing the skirting board when renovating shit drives me absolutely nuts. The installation on them seems more permanent, i admit but still. I hate how things look when theyve been painted over a few times..
Great video. But where is the fokn free tile layout app in this industry!!? Simply draw out your dimensions, enter tile size and grout size, then preferred orientation. And boom, you get your layout with cut list and numbered. Very basic. Decking industry has multiple.
About to start another rehab. I came across your video. Thanks for getting me out of the stone age lol. I see the benefits already!