BMW 5 series F10 - Battery Replacement and Programing (How to guide)
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- Опубліковано 4 лют 2023
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BMW 5 series F10 - Battery Replacement and Programing DIY how-to guide.
Bimmerlink App: www.bimmerlink.app/
Bluetooth Adapter: amzn.to/3wUMnbi
Multimeter: amzn.to/3wUf48e
Socket set: amzn.to/40vYvwX
Socket drive extension: amzn.to/40tg6FR
Fastener Removal tool: amzn.to/3vD7qzV
Torx Bit Set: amzn.to/3ho3lqQ
Mechanic's Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3JXk2ph
Torque specs for battery retention brackets: 10nm
Torque specs for battery lugs: 15nm or hand tight
My other video on BMW brakes: • BMW 2010-2017 F10 Brak...
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Nicely done.... and without annoying background music
Thank you!
Excellent. Thx for the help so clearly explained.
You r good, Jake
Great video! One suggestion: There is a 12-volt power port in the black plastic trim piece you removed at 3:02 in the video. The connector comes apart just by pulling during removal. (Easy to miss.) You might want to reattach the connector before reinstalling the trim piece at 5:12 in the video. Although I suspect those ports are rarely ever used!
One other minor note: If the battery size or type is being changed (eg. upgrading from a 90AH H8 to the 105AH H9), you will also need the BimmerCode app. BimmerLink will only register the same size and type on its own. I suspect, though, registering as a 90AH AGM vs a 105AH AGM is unlikely to make much difference to the charging system.
Good suggestions!!
Thank you for your constructive video, I have changed my battery DIY following your video and it’s all wooow! Thanks from UK.
Welcome. Nice job 👏!
Well it’s time to change my OEM Battery on my 2011 BMW 535i (65,000 miles) I’m surprised it lasted this long. My local BMW has the battery for $279. US so I’m on my way to purchase it and I ordered the OBD from Amazon and downloaded the BMW app on the link provided. Thanks for the video. Because I was not paying $300. Plus for the install, that’s more than the cost of the battery 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you so much for sharing
Very welcome!
Nicely done
Thanks!
They most definitely needa sponsor you, I just bought the app and the adapter device to work on this 528i project car 💪🏽 good looking my boy
I’ll take it! Good job taking care of buisness! Fun car!
Great video, straight to the point! My 2011 550i M sport (6 speed manual) still has the original battery. I have it on a trickle charger when not being used, but it's time for a replacement. 68,0** original miles, as I don't drive it in the winter/ snow.
You got a lot of free years out of a battery that old lol
I'm just replacing today our 2011 520d m sport OG battery.
Wow, that’s really impressive! What is your secret to making it last that long?
@fixitwithjake can't say because we bought car last September with 58k km.
Low mileage is my guess.
@fixitwithjake I should add it was a Northern Territory car previously so it probably never got colder that about 18 C.
Excellent video and thank you for no stupid background music
You’re very welcome!
Glad I found your video! Local stores are only carrying the H8 battery that I can soon, would that be a huge problem if OEM is h9?
I don't think it will be a huge problem. But if you do that, be sure to get a coder device and tell the car the size of the new battery (it ask in the app). Please let me know how it goes either way!
The parts department at the BMW dealership will carry the H9. It’s not that much more expensive then other stores for a battery.
@@fixitwithjake thanks for getting back to me, I called my local dealerships and each wanted over $330-350 for the battery alone and another $240 to code and register it for me!
I was wondering with pre LCI non-stop-start, is it necessary to use an AGM?
Or can just a quality lead-calcium with same CCA and AH etc. be used?
Well I just installed a Delkor Calcium 60038 in our 2011 F10.
Side by side with OEM AGM battery it was a direct replacement. Even had vent tube in same place and plug from old battery fitted in both ends.
It has 900 CCA and 100 AH.
Car fired right up and only asked for time date reset.
No codes, it's not asking for anything. Checked idrive, nothing.
Thanks for the video. I have an F10 and when I started the car, it had a hard time starting and things started to flicker, do you think because of the battery? It's 2013. Also, do you recommend getting the battery from a BMW dealer or from AutoZone? THANKS!
Yes. Likely so. Have auto zone test your battery for free. And buy it from them.
Hi there, can you tell where is auxiliary battery? (I have a f10 523i)
It is forward and left of the main battery in the trunk. About 1 ft. away from the other battery.
Not sure where you get your info bro but as an Euro specialist I should point out you definitely need to register your new battery like right away.
When your battery gets old it loses some of its capacity to slow this process your charging rate changes to best suit the current condition of the battery
By registering you essentially letting the ECU know a new battery has been installed so it’d charge the battery accordingly.
Even In some cases (mostly VW & Audi) the alternator ain’t charging the battery until you register it with a new code which u really don’t want that to happen for 2 major reasons
1- you just paid sh!t load of money for a new battery that isn’t getting charged and in no time you gonna need another one (Cause after only a week of normal driving without charging it’ll definitely fail the load test even if it passes the CCA by like %80)
2- hook up a scanner to these cars and you’ll see they have far more independent electronic units than actual mechanical ones and unstable power input (due to not getting charged or being charged the rate your old battery was charged) causes MASSIVE, EXPENSIVE & REALLY TECHNICAL problems specially on BMW which is notorious for BCM, FRM & footwell module getting damaged simply because of voltage fluctuations
Also you never wanna just disconnect the battery without any memory retainer. Like the clock going back to 12 is not even important when you loose all your transmission, throttle body, KAM….. adaptations and values!
For personal use I’d recommend the SP memory retainer which is like $20. It’s essentially a 9v battery plugged into the cigarette lighter supplying enough power to ECU to retain all your adaptations ….!
My e90s battery was replaced about a year ago by previous ownner. I see on the car log was not register any previous replacement, and the battery currently registered is a 90ahm agm while the battery in the trunk is a 95ahm AGm. What would you say i have to do now?
If it was my car, and everything is operating, fine, I would leave it alone. If you’re having any issues or it’s throwing any engine codes like in the video, then I would get the battery registered. You can either register the battery on your own using this adapter in the video or you can take it to the dealer or an independent shop and pay them a few hundred dollars. Your battery may last slightly less time but it’s a definitely cheaper to swap out the battery down the road, then to get the dealer to register it a year later. Let us know how it goes! You really can’t go wrong either way. amzn.to/3wUMnbi
@@fixitwithjake it has never given any issues. I just happened to know this when i bougth the obd adapter and compare with the battery. I would say the batteries used in the car they were never registered cause nothing appears on bimmer link. Ill follow your advise and leave it as it is
You should re-register it.
M550i 2019 needs a battery let’s see how it goes
How did it go??? :)
So if I don’t register it how short of a Battery life should I expect?
No one really knows……
@@fixitwithjake I guess I’ll be the Guinea pig lol just put a interstate battery in from Costco I have a 2011 535i
What if there were no power after replacing the battery?
First, check the voltage on the battery terminals. Should be around 12 V. Then check the tightness on the terminals and make sure there’s continuity. Then if all that looks OK, check your fuses because maybe you tripped something. But honestly, it’s a fairly full proof design and there’s not a lot to mess up that I can think of….
What if I never register the new battery then what?
The computer adapts to the age of the battery. So potentially it could over/under charge a new battery. Causing your $200 battery to not last as long. But if you think about it and it cost you an extra $80-$100 to register the battery are you really saving anything money in the long run? They also want you to register your batteries so that the cars computer can know if you put in a bigger or smaller battery. And also how fresh the battery is because the computer may see lower voltage on an older battery and shut off your convenience features while the engines off to try to conserve power, but if that was a new battery, it could’ve ran your HVAC fan, windows, and radio a bit longer before it auto shut off.
Lol I was at the dealer and I saw 600 battery I was like what 😂
Dang, that is high!
What if your battery reads 11v?
Then it needs to be charged. A charged battery with the car off sits at around 12.6 volts. Once charged, perform the engine start test and see if the battery drops a lot during the engine start. If it does, that indicates it can't handle the engine start load well and needs replacing. If it only falls a little then that is normal. Normal less than 11v during engine start indicates a weak battey.
@@fixitwithjake so have it charged, watch it when it’s being started and if it drops a little then it’s ok? A little as in 1 or 2 amps or something? I’m a female and the dealer said my battery is reading 11v instead of 12 but the same dealer recommended and did a coolant flush on my car then handed me check out papers saying I need a cooling pump…so I don’t trust them
Always turn off the start/stop function, ruins your starter and battery
*Promo SM* 👏
Ok, don’t know what that means.
You have to let car know it’s a new battery that’s horrible design
No it’s not. What the car will do if you don’t register the new battery is think it’s still the old battery and it will overcharge it and decrease the life of the new battery.