Відео

Yes it has a white front led head light.

Positive first then negative.

@@fixitwithjakeand then how do I tighten up the negative bolts once positive is connected? Last question & thanks again!

Correct. I just went and watched the video again to make sure I was giving you good advice first off. You’re not gonna get shocked with low-voltage 12 V. You might see a few sparks when the wires connect but you’re not going to hurt yourself with low voltage. as you can see the video I put the red connector on first and then I put on the negative black cable second. That is the standard way to do in the automotive world. But you could probably do the other way and it would be fine. Anyway, put them both on loosely and then tighten them. You don’t need to tighten them until you get everything in place and that metal bracket on. But it is important to tighten them well but not too tight because they are soft metal.

The ones in the video are straight 120 V. Around 2018 I would say in onwards people started switching over to the transformer and lower voltage systems as they hit the market and because they are a little bit safer. If you have the transformer version, you’ll just need to look for 12v lightbulbs instead of 120v. Also check that your transformer is performing OK. Which I have another video on how to check that when I talk about replacing led light drivers.

@@fixitwithjake Thank you so much will check then out!

Great find. That was not available when I made that video. But I just checked my local Walmart and it’s available now. So that is a great. Thanks for commenting. I used to have a Touareg, it was a great car.

@@fixitwithjake Love the Touareg, such a capable and solidly built vehicle (especially the 1st gen). And the Touareg, Cayenne, Q7, and Q8, and body for the Lamborghini Urus are made on the same assembly line at the VW Bratislava Plant in Slovakia. Such a shame we don't get it in the US anymore.

No. Not for replacing rotors or pads. But yes, you should replace the brake fluid as scheduled in the owners manual. Which is every two years.

Same concept. You can also use the existing old wire to pull the new wire in. Be sure to lube the conduit well. They make special lube for this.

Ya, it’s tricky.

Troubleshoot starting on page 14: brand.maytronics.com/m/2dc6c7aac9ab980/original/User-manual-8180034-EN.pdf

Not that I am aware of. If you have an automatic water filler it would be installed next to the pool underneath one of those caps and there would be an automatic float valve. When the water level gets low, the float sinks down and triggers the water valve and fills it back up until the float goes back to the same height. Kinda like a toilet. It doesn’t need an easy touch or anything electronic to make all this happen but a lot of people don’t install them because they tend to fail every once in a long while and when they do, they don’t shut off and you might be on vacation and filling your pool nonstop until it overflows.

@@fixitwithjake thanks man. So the best way is to just use a garden hose?

Jake I found an add water function built into the hose bib so I’m good there, thanks. But now I have an issue with the spa spillway and jets running non stop - I have no schedules set for the spa and it’s just on the standard pool schedule from 8-3:45. Any ideas what to look for? I even toggled the spa side setting to off and the spa isn’t heating, it’s just running the spillway and jets constantly with the filter pump. The spillway setting is set for a different time so I know it’s not bc of that.

I have them

@@uwlaw5856 how much sir?

You are only supposed to tighten the Pentair spring clamp until the springs touch each other. The clamp is not supposed to be any tighter. Any tighter and these clamps break the welds and it cost people a lot of money. They’re 150 to $250 each for the Pentair 190003 Clamp Kit. It is in page 5 of the manufacturer’s manual www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/filters/clean-and-clear-family/clean-and-clear-plus/clean-and-clear-plus-guides-manuals/clean-and-clear-plus-install-guide-english.pdf

It’s a nice boat!

You are very welcome! Good job.

That is a very good question. First off nice job getting everything replaced. If it were up to me, I would replace the entire housing due to the electrical hazard. If you fix it and it leaks again, you could have stray, electricity connect to the water and cause, potentially deadly consequences. Obviously I hope that you have a GFCI system that will back you up in case this was whoever happened and shut off the power. But you don’t want to lean on such as safety device like that. I highly suggest you don’t use silicone aquarium sealant. It’s just not good enough for the job. Instead, if you need to do this type of repair, I would get something like a water epoxy. If you search that on Amazon, you’ll see there is underwater, marine epoxy that’s made to withstand harsh conditions (chlorine water) for long periods of time. Silicone aquarium sealant may not last in the chlorine water.

@@fixitwithjake I was hoping there was a cable gland I could purchase which would replace the cable gland used by Pentair to make the seal. I can easily remove the wire from the housing, install a new gland (if I knew which one to purchase) and confirm the proper repair. Any ideas?

Great idea!

Any auto parts store like Autozone or the BMW dealership. I got mine at the dealer for around $180.

Yes, anything warmer then the surrounding area.

Appreciate that!

No, they’re in the bottom of the tile piece and on the 45 degree corner. They just don’t show at surface level. They sr important to keep the tile piece up and off the metal so water can flow under. But it’s still not enough to make the drain function well. Maybe if you have ultra water saving shower heads.

Yes, that is what it is made for. I tested it in strong winds.

Too funny! Maybe they’re just working smarter not harder.

@@fixitwithjake 😂 maybe your right or maybe your wrong 😂

I’m here to help! Good work!

For the solar blanket, you have three options. They make a liquid solar cover, which is basically a product that will float to the top of the water and will help trap in the heat and reduce evaporation. I’ve never tried it myself, but it seems like people like it. But when I did the math on it, it’s cheaper to buy more water to refill my pool than to buy the chemical product. Also, who knows what that chemical does to your skin. The next option is to buy a set of solar blankets that are circular so maybe 10 of them and they float around your pool and they don’t trap all the heat but they trap 70% due to surface area on top of the water. They’re easy to gather up and easy to deploy. The last option is to get a big roll of solar bubbles and cut that to the shape of your pool and that is the best option if you want to heat up your pool with just the sun energy and reduce of operation. The downside is it’s a big cumbersome to deploy and take out of the pool. I’ll put a link to some of that product here. amzn.to/3WYUuRW

Are you describing your weekend? 🤣

Let us all know how it goes, and if you have any tips to make it easier for the next person

Thank you, Jack!

That sounds about right. When I would drive my gas powered Jeep up the mountain 200 miles towing a boat it would get about 12 MPG. Without the boat I would get about 19 MPG for the same drive. I still have a gas powered car for towing, but I went electric recently for my Daily driver and there’s no going back. I love almost every aspect of the electric vehicles at this point.

Gosh, that’s a tough one. I can see why the manufacturers made them small and why the pool builders started to use them. But we have quickly learned that LED lights do not reach their lifespan as advertised. They need active cooling with an electric fan or something to make them stay cool to last long. So the small little niches in the pool Are full of heat and do not dissipate. Therefore, these led lights burn out so quickly. Unfortunately, there are no different style to replace these that make it better. I would try to find a “contractor pack” that includes manyincludes quantity to reduce the price. And then it would only run these as needed versus running them every night like I do. Not a lot of help but that’s just my brain 🧠 is thinking. By the way, the manufacturer says they have a 50,000 hour lifespan. That is 2,000 days straight or 5.7 years is non stop use.

I appreciate that! Lots of hard work behind the scenes planning a video out :).

It’s a tongue 👅 twister for me :)

The little card mounted on the back wall of your AC touch. System is called a surge card and takes 24 V AC from the saltwater transformer and converts it to 35 V DC that powers assault Cell. If your circuit breaker pops with the salt cell disconnected, that is a good indication that the surge card is bad. To confirm that unplug the two small red wires marked as AC from the surge card and see if the breaker no longer pops.

@@fixitwithjake 10amp fuse pops only when the salt cell is connected. Had a case with Pentair and nothing they can do. Everything I’ve been reading leads to salt cell needs replacing.