89 Cherokee Transmission Cooler Install
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 чер 2016
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" KM2s
v - Skippable links and Parts list below - v
Cooler: Hayden # 678 Plate and Fin Fluid Cooler
Fitment Kit: Imperial # 240392
0:01 - - Intro
2:43 - - Types Of Coolers
4:04 - - Hayden Kit
5:35 - - Proper Mounting Orientation
6:38 - - Picking a Mounting Location
8:35 - - Hose Routing Diagram
10:40 - Running Hose
13:14 - Mounting Cooler
16:01 - Final Check
17:43 - Test Results - Авто та транспорт
Dude thanks a ton! This video was very helpful for me! I actually installed a cheapo tube and fin style Hayden cooler (one of the biggest ones I could get my hand on) on my 1996 Ford Windstar soccer mom van, because they have notoriously shitty transmissions that love to overheat and burn the ever living shit out of the trans fluid. I learned a ton of info from a lot of your vids!
So Doctor nick, the operation was a success and the patient has cooler blood :-)
I am going to add one this summer. Great video. Step by step. I have my electric fan set up with a switch to manually come one when I wheel. It keeps it cooler having it on rather then when the thermo switch tells it to. By then it's HOT... so flip, now it's in before it gets that hot. Again though, great video.
great video homie. Keep on Jeepin on.
Always enjoy your videos. Great info and funny AF! Thanks for doing what you do man!
Awesome video, I live in Florida so it's almost always hot and humid here, I plan on getting the larger 679 cooler and installing it on my 2.2L cobalt sedan to help it chill out cuz I have seen in heavy traffic temps climb as high as 226°F and wont get lower than 185° on the hwy.
Wow, those are some serious temps, especially on the highway. Cooler would do wonders.
i just picked one up from a 98 5.2 zj n was wondering on how i was gonna put it into my 98 4.0 zj thanks for how to video. keep up the work 👍
I've heard so many horror stories about transmission coolers in the radiator. What happens is the tank with transmission fluid in it can begin to leak, allowing coolant into the transmission... So watch out for that man. But great video as always! Love these types of videos by you.
I recently did this to my MDX for that reason... Stupid cooler inside the radiator is known to fail and destroy the precious and rather ludicrous expensive transmission, So I by passed it before giving it the chance to fail.
Coolant will never make its way into the transmission. Transmissions work at higher PSI than the cooling system, so if there is a failure in the radiator/transcooler you will see transfluid in the coolant.
Casey Dman All the MDX damages was because of coolant inside the transmission.
Don´t believe me, just google images: "Coolant in Transmissions". Also famous UA-camr "Hiram Gutierrez" has a couple of videos of damaged transmissions because of coolant inside of them and you can see the A/F when he disassemble them.
+skirmich Coolant Systems run at 8-15 PSI, Transmissions run at hundreds of PSI. Fluid will flow the path of least resistance, therefore if both systems are operating at pressure there will never be coolant in transmission. Not to mention the cooling system in your reference Is not a radiator/trans cooler combo, that's some jerry rigged dodge incest born cooler. Leave it up to dodge to reinvent the wheel and gives it flat spots lol
Well who knows how Coolant gets inside the MDX transmissions right?
I need this. I have no idea what my trans tempt is, but to the touch the shifter and everything around the trans is hot.
In Australia (,especially up north) XJ need these fitted - and more!-- but a question- what wisdom inspired the fitting of a cooler inside the hot side of the radiator ??? Mine is blocked off and I fitted one like shown here no problems ! Being RH drive mine is fitted the opposte side -tho
Nice, glad to see it helped a good bit. I've got a new issue with mine that started 3 days ago. Now it idles fine and runs good, sounds smooth too.. Just when I want to take off it bogs down and dies if I try to take off normal. I have to hit the gas hard around 2k to 3k rpm and it takes off spinning the tires and runs great. Sucks in parking lots though, try to barely touch the gas and it dies. It only does it when not moving and only between 900 and 1500 RPM. Anything above/below that RPM it runs great. It sounds like it's bogging down. I've been googling and looking on forums but haven't found anyone with the same problem yet.
That's very strange. How's your MAP sensor and the vac line that connects it? unless the TPS has a dead spot. If a lot of gas is needed then I don't think fuel pressure is an issue. how's them spark plugs?
+NickInTimeFilms plugs is 3 months old but haven't pulled them to check condition. I cleaned the throttle body and the iac today. That didnt help as i hoped it would, now my idle is stuck at 2200 rpm and it still bogs down and dies when i try to take off lol. I just checked the map sensor, it shows 4.86 volts key on engine off, engine on it shows .98 voltage. I readjusted the tps trying to bring the idle down. It's 4.07 volts so i put it at .83 but no difference on that either. Vacuum lines is a wreck but i had them all working and havent changed anything with them.
Just got done working on it for today. I figured out the problem finally lol. I rerouted and double checked all my vacuum lines again after that last message also. I had noticed some scaring inside the throttle body when I cleaned it out, I didn't think much of it though. I had just put it back how it was after I cleaned it and that's when I got the 2200 to 3k rpm idle range. So I loosened the 2 screws that holds the throttle plate and bent the throttle stop back to allow it to close more than it's suppose to. Then I readjusted the plate to close all the way and tightened the screws down and that fixed all my issues. The scaring was letting too much air through which was keeping my idle way up. I'm not sure what was causing the bogging down and stalling out issue but it went away with this fix as well. Thanks too!
Odd that that's all it took to throw everything off. Glad everything works as it should again.
Cool vid, I just ordered 2 of these for the trans and ps for the crawler. I'm still debating wether or not I need to keep the radiator in the loop for those winter months??
for an off-road only rig it shouldn't matter, it might be worth testing it to see what you need. if you want to spend some cash they have coolers with thermostats so that the fluid can warm up first.
This one wasn't nearly as expensive as I thought. This would allow you to take the radiator out of the loop for max cooling but still maintain operating temperature. www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13011
+NickInTimeFilms that's cool I've never seen one of those. I'll consider it but I really hate adding more things that could potentially go wrong. Where did you add your temp sender? Video?
+BleepinJeep There is a factor port left over from Toyota variants. 98+ xj ports are blanked out so you'll have to splice in. ua-cam.com/video/-je6xt1y8A0/v-deo.html
im in southern california im ditching the radiator asap and putting that cooler in front of the mechanical fan
New to Jeeps, I'm doing a cooking swap on a remix and my AC Condenser is limiting me. How did you remove it and relocate the lines?
Installing mine today and noticed on the rad cooler the out from trans goes into top of rad and out at the bottom. It seems to me that air would get trapped at top of rad cooler.
I just had a hole punched in mine and had to replace it last week. Luckily there was already a cooler in my XJ so I just had to get a new radiator and I was done
You should have mounted it ricer style on the outside of the bumper lol.
Very well
with stock fans would it be better to put it in front of the mechanical fan on the passenger side, or would that heat the motor up to much? and what is your opinion on completely replumbing the trans cooler lines with A/N fittings and lines? I threw a fan belt once and it broke the plastic clip in the trans line, luckily I was only in my driveway tho.
Trans cooler won't noticeable heat up the radiator. If you push your trans a lot and need lots of cooling, putting it in front of the mech fan is the best spot. And if you can do the plumbing, converting everything to A/N sounds awesome, easy to service and stupid simple.
You can find those very expensive trans coolers (stacked plate) on Cadillac Escalade trucks/suv's in the junk yard. They are built like a tank! I got one for $14 and it fits my year 2000 XJ nice. I don't have a trans gauge yet, but I can tell the difference with less heat in the cab. Thx for your video.
Hmm, interesting find. They run about $85 on rockauto, very common in alot of chevy and GMC Trucks. Thanks for the heads up
The figure b you showed is good only for summer months... if you have very cold winters you're going to want to hook it up thru the radiator. If not switch it between months..
Great video. Don't know if it's me or you but this one seemed to up the game. Very clear and concise with good background info where necessary. Appreciate you taking the time to do all of this one handed while explaining not just the how but the why.
I thought the same thing as Ken when looking at your drawing. A T fitting solenoid control that would allow the fluid to bypass the radiator when it gets too hot. More complexity but maybe the best of both worlds.
Question. The trail ride and doughnut temps still seemed well above the recommended range of your chart. Did the secondary fan cut on during these higher temps?
Thanks again for the great videos.
Depending on the topic at hand and how fresh the research is I can usually make all the points I want to in a video. If I feel I know a lot about a subject or have done the job a few times then there is a lot less guessing and jump cuts. I'm happy that I finally got a smartphone with optical stabilization so my one handed work should be much more watchable once the videos have caught up.
As for a thermostat, believe me I've had ideas. But I'm also learning that there comes a point where complexity may compromise an entire system with added failure points such as the heater control valve. I was more interested in adding a bypass thermostat for the cooler so that the trans can get up to temperature in the winter. A safer approach to a rad bypass would be an active fluid cooler which just means it has a dedicated cooling fan. The secondary fan seems to do ok for my needs but i could always add a little pusher on the front or maybe add a bypass valve or something. I'm thinking a better radiator may help me out a bit on all accounts.
As for the offroad temps, 180ºF is a-okay for safe temp, anything under 200ºF is fine. 210ºF is a bit on the warm side but in small bursts it won't hurt anything. After I got on the road the temp dropped about 30ºF within the first 2 minutes so a little airflow brings it right back down again.
So the electric fan was on when the off road temps got high?
The fan was on at the time. I've done some adjustments to my e-fan setup so the main fan can pull harder but that won't affect trans temps much.
Would 90* fittings be ok flow wise ?
So Hot (pressure) goes to bottom and cold (return) goes to the top?
I live in socal the coldest ive seen it get down to is in the 30s do you think i should bypass the radiator and do the recommended ?
Tough call. If you do a lot of hard wheeling or have big tires then it would probably be worth it. If i go through this system again, I would add a thermostat to help with winter temps
You could get an line thermostat for your trans cooler
I just got a Hayden 397. Derale makes inline tranny thermostats. Then no worries about ovdrooling.
I do want to do that at some point, will really help in the winter months. I'm thinking of re doing all the trans lines with AN fittings, maybe one day.
I have an 89 4.0L also but mine came with the heavy duty cooling package and there is already a tube and fin trans cooler in front of the AC condenser cooler. It's like 2.25" tall and about 14" long but I was wondering if you haw any idea if a stock system like that still uses the radiator to cool the transmission fluid?
They usually have both. look for small aluminum lines running in to your transmission. They typically put it in-line for the factory upgrades as Nick did
ok thanks. My radiator needs to be replaced so I'll check if it has a trans cooler in it as well. If so I'll make sure I have a trans cooler in the new one. Also, how loose should the mechanical fan clutch be once the engine reaches 210?
I thought plate and tube style coolers were only for horizontal flow and not vertical as you indicate. Reason being as it slows the flow causing more efficient cooling of the fluid.
Should I remove my AC Compressor before mounting a Hayden trans cooler? Or can I mount it to the compressor, or through the compressor and the radiator with the zip tie things.
If you mean the AC condenser then yeah, just put the trans cooler in front of it. You can leave both in.
NickInTimeFilms yeah that’s what I meant thanks. I use your videos a lot for a general reference for things I could or things I need to do to my 89 Cherokee.
The instructions show that it can be mounted with the inlet/outlet pointing down. Except on the xj if its pointed down there's no room for the hoses.
Question: Has the foam pads fell off yours yet?
Zip ties were tight enough to hold them in place.
Does your engine always run that hot? Nice video I been debating putting one of those ZJ coolers on mine. I really like where you mounted your Trans temp makes sense to use a factory location.
Only runs hot on the highway. I'm looking into that.
🌋🌞🔥🔥🔥
@@NickInTimeFilms bet it was just a thermostat or water pump, just fixed the same thing with mine, took a while to get to temp then would run warm. but you ballsy, im cutting the AC off and pulling over once we climb over 210 xD lol
Engine temps seem very high. I'd put a 180 degree thermostat in her. Also, wouldn't the air bubble issue be a problem in the radiator cooler, since it goes in the top and out the bottom?
Thermostats are band aids, best to actually fix the problem. I just needed a new radiator, stays super cool now. As for the bubbles, maybe, but there's enough pressure and it's a straight enough shot that it shouldn't be an issue.
If you want cooler trans tempts do not install it in front/behind/next to the radiator, yes air blowing over the fins are cooling that fluid but that hot air is being reintroduced into the radiator, which has the stock trans cooler in the bottom. Get a fan and relocate that aux trans cooler. at the very least get 4 inches between the radiator and aux cooler.
If I wanted extreme cooling then an active cooler (dedicated fan) would be better than this passive setup but it does fine for now. I want to see how the results change when I install a bigger radiator to see the effect of engine heat on trans temps.
should be good to go then, easiest way to aid in the winter with a heavy trans cooler setup is to just block most of the air that would move through the cooler IE grille skirt of just zip tie some pieces of cardboard directly behind the grille with a few small holes cut in it to allow some air flow
Trans cooler in front of the radiator definitely increased water temps on my 97 XJ. I mounted it remotely and it helped 4-7 degrees on water temps
how much fluid did you end up adding?
Doesn't take much
where did you get those hood vents? and do the help?
You found the vid. The vents work alright. They might do better if I take the nearly useless hood light off. You can feel some heat come out of them when the fans are on but you aren't going to notice engine temps go down, only under-hood temps which might help with heat soak issues.
NickInTimeFilms that was some fast answering, man im loving your channel, im completly new to it, definitely subscribing... since I have a stock 4.0 im just thinking about installing the vents to help hot air come out, and im currently looking for malibu dual fans. how did the volvo did?
It pulls a decent amount of air and will keep me cool in hot traffic all day I have a recent video going over all the updates. ua-cam.com/video/f55dlnyAtOk/v-deo.html
Working on lowering highway temps and I'm thinking my rad can't keep up so once my new one is in we will know for sure.
I ordered a radiator like an hour ago... hopefully it helps a lot since the city i live in we live on a regular 105 F all summer long...
Maybe there's a bypass valve you can get to eliminate the stock radiator when off roading.
I have to push it pretty hard to get those trans temps up, I usually get close to overheating the engine before the trans gets toasty. I'm more curious if I will have over-cooling issues in the winter but we shall see as time goes on.
i think i have said it before... but almost every time i want to do do something to my xj, Nickintimefilms does it only a few days before me... we must be on the same path with the same direction. thanks for the the nice tutorials !
Guess it works out for you then, haha.
i even enjoy watching your videos about some of the old style xj stuff ( i have a 98 & 01 ). i wish i had a video camera to document my build. but i dont have the camera skills, much less your talk show host skills, and editing skills. i just take pictures... i have relocated a bunch of stuff in the engine bay for a second battery, also did an AC to OBA conversion, and trimmed the rear fenders behind the back wheels. i am now in the process of doing a gas tank relocation, raised tank about 10"-12" put in a new floor flush with the bottom of frame to sit the tank on, built an interior box to house the tank, and moved the stock factory fuel door to the other side and up several inches. let me know if i can help you with any of those projects, i photo graphed every step
Don't knock yourself, Write-up threads with pictures are also great resources when you want to skim through stuff and I've thought about doing them from time to time but it's too much work with the videos. Definitely sounds like you have a lot of pretty cool custom working going on in the back. Trying to Compete with BleepinJeep? haha
hehe, no way! he has a nice shop, sponsors, and he made his XJs into a career... he is live'n the dream ;)
i did get a set of doors off craigslist for my xj project, and when i showed up it turned out to be the matt's bleepinjeep shop and the doors are from the scorpion jeep
That's awesome.
Mine will get up to 225 while wheeling even with two coolers and a fan on one .😬 runs at 109-150 on the freeway
Have you looked into adding an external inline trans filter ? Using an Oil filter relocation kit , plum it inline with your outgoing fluid before the trans cooler .......... This will add fluid capacity, along with adding a filter that you can change when you do an oil change ........ You just have to be sure to use a hydraulic oil filter instead of a regular oil filter ......... It also helps with cooling , and allows you to keep an eye on your trans (as you can cut it open and see if there is any material from the trans in the fluid ......... Something to think about ..... Ill be adding one to my truck so I can keep an eye on the trans and add a little more security to debris floating around in the fluid .... It will also extend the life of the internal filter in the trans ............. Just a suggestion , I see it used on Ultra 4 race trucks , and some of the crawlers we build at work ....
Filters are never really a bad idea, but a trans filter is low on the list for me. I've had this thing sunk quite a few times and have not once seen the ATF mixed with water. Normal wear and tear might be picked up better by a tighter filter though, but I believe the drain plug is magnetic so most of the metal bits will get caught there.
I'm much more interested in a coolant filter to pick up the rust and other goop floating around in there when I'm not looking. That may actually happen if I find something I'm happy with.
Thats not a bad Idea either , If you find something that will work for the coolant system , please post it , or at least let me know .... I have a Crawler I am building and I want it to last , as I am building it from the ground up ... So adding filters to the Power steering (for the hydro assist ) , coolant , trans , and an extra oil filter will help keep everything nice and clean and last ....... Still trying to figure out a way to do the same for my t-case and Crawer box (duel t-cases ) ......... But thanks for responding , a lot of channels I comment on , the poster does not respond to them .... SO thank you ....
I figure it's important to stay in contact with my viewers, it's most of the reason I make these things in the first place..
Keep up the good work , I look forward to your videos , even though I dont own an XJ , I work on quite a few of them ... So your videos are very helpful ..... ... Thank you for taking the time to make them and post them for us ....
I love your videos, they're so helpful, aren't you worried about how hot your engine runs?
Oh believe me, that is top priority right now. I don't ever let it touch the red line. My overheating issues mostly happen on the highway. Over 55mph it likes to rise and will go past the white line unless I blast the heat. A new radiator will be in the near future if I can find one that i'm happy with that won't fall apart in a few years.
Flat highway or just goin uphill for a while?
+Iñigo Zapata Flat highway sadly. It's a good speed limiter because if you go too fast you overheat, lol. up hills you better pray you don't have to accelerate. new beefy rad is way high on the list
Yup, you certainly need better coolant flow to overcome that. I have already solved all my "at speed" cooling problems (still on closed system, BTW) with a two-row alu radiator and a new fan clutch. I'll see how the auxiliary fan does this summer keeping the temperature in check or upgrade it to a higher CFM one, but that's the easy part.
+NickInTimeFilms yeah i think you need a good radiator or a good cleaning off the junk it build up on the fins...just noticed that. I had same issue got a new Napa radiator and haven't had a cooling issue since.
the top line in my 99 xj was the return line....
The orientation of the cooler is up for debate. If it was bad to mount them with the fittings pointed down then car manufacturers wouldn’t mount them that way from the factory. Mount it whatever way works best for your particular application.
yea, but car manufacturers don't always make good decisions, and very rarely worry about future maintenance or even real world situations