At low speeds the torq converter not being locked up causes some heat. At roughly 45-50, under cruising conditions and not hard acceleration, the Torq converter locks up, not much heat generated besides parts spinning around. What can heat up the trans too is the radiator actually, the hot antifreeze transfers heat to the transmission. Running a cooler on the return line on the radiator is the way to go, helps cool off the heat the antifreeze added to the transmission fluid. Thank you for part number :) I'll be doing this install within the month. I too have that torx plug and will definitely be utilizing it, good think I won't loose much fluid. Great video :)
Great advise on where to monitor trans temp. I have watched a ton of these videos and they just measure outgoing fluid to cooler, not actual operating temp in pan. Thanks
I'm so happy I watched this clip. Been looking at installing a temp gauge in my 95 XJ. Can't believe it took me so long to find out about that blanking plug on the gearbox - i would think that was the most obvious place to install the sender unit, but every other method I've seen has been fitting a T piece off a cooler line. Watched your clip last night, checked for the plug on my gearbox this morning, and ordered parts at lunch time. Couldn't get the Autometer parts, but have sourced a SAAS brand gauge and adaptor. Autometer don't seem as widely stocked in Australia. The SAAS adaptor looks a little bit smaller in overall size than the Autometer one, so hoping there isn't much manipulation of the dip stick tube involved. Should help that I'll have the pan dropped to change gearbox filter at the same time. I'll let you know how I get on with the SAAS parts.
i found it easier to get the adapter in before threading the sender in, because that way i was able to tighten the adapter with a socket and not have to go out and get stubby wrenches
Nick a few tips. I use an old wire coat hanger to fish wires around in vehicles. Not that your method doesn't work just that sometimes you need something a little stiffer than a heavy wire. On your body style you could have gotten an ignition hot off of the power side of the rear wiper switch. Again nothing wrong with how you did it just throwing it out there for someone who might not be as electrically savy. Lastly a little on why your trans seams to heat up while stopped, and why it runs cooler at highway speeds. When the torque converter is locked up its the most efficient, and creates the least amount of heat (like when cruising in OD, and this is also why you should select 3rd if the trans is hunting when in D because it allows the torque converter to lock up in 3rd). When it's unlocked it's allowing hydraulic slippage between the internal parts of the converter, and that creates heat (like when you're stopped (even in park there will be hydraulic slipping although it's slight), or it's not in a gear selection that allows it to lock up. You never mentioned in the video if you where running an AUX trans cooler, but if you are (or planning on adding one) I always suggest physically locating it on the mechanical fan side as to always get maximum air flow at any speed. I also like to plumb the AUX cooler first, and then the OEM RAD cooler next as this allows the trans to warm up to an acceptable minimum temp as well especially if you live in a climate where the Temps get cold in the winter.
I did install an auxiliary cooler, I was thinking about plumbing it the way you did but ended up doing in the usual way because I wasn't sure about max temperature issues at the time. With my current setup, the transmission usually doesn't go much past 140 unless i'm putting around town on a warm day or pushing it on a trail. This will be my first winter with the setup so if I have major issues then I will look into changing it up a bit.
Great video! Thanks so much. I already bought my gauge (B&M) and relay... this helps me out so much. Definitely doing the same you did for the illumination!
All threads need thread locker when they are going to be holding back liquid or gas. With the Teflon tape 2 layers over your threads and don't over tighten. NPT does not seal properly without a sealant. Cool video thank you.
Australian XJ - The trans lines go into the "hot" side of the radiator so best to bypass factory set up and fit largest aftermarket cooler you can! Keep the smaller factory cooler in the circuit or not -up to you-
Out here it can get pretty cold, so I like that the engine can help warm it up when need be. For a really killer setup I might add a thermostat valve so it can really get to Operating Temp.
Thanks for taking the time to make your helpful videos ! Do you recall what adapter you used in place of the T55 plug ? I`m getting ready to put mine in and researching for the size I don`t have a driveway to play in...
I would think the trans pump would be flowing more fluid at higher rpm's, like at highway speeds, than at idle in drive. I think that would cause the spike in temp as the trans parts bleed heat into the slower moving fluid, aka "heat soak". The radiator fan will be slower at idle too, and there won't be highway speed air pushing through the radiator and over the bottom of the fluid pan. The pan would radiate some heat at highway speed as well. Sitting in traffic with engine compartment heat blowing under the vehicle would add some heat to the trans pan. Just my 1/2 cent thought's.
Don't know. May get a wide band o2 gauge to keep tabs on my stroker, or a vacuum gauge for economy driving, or maybe some other fun sensor. if nothing else arises then i may make it into a switch with lights or something.
I'm sure you could since that was it's intended purpose. Part number is #8942935042 and is found on some older 80's-90's toyota trucks. Only issue I can think of is finding a gauge that can properly read the sender output.
This is what I did to it from yesterday and today on my car It started running hot.. I bought some antifreeze... It was still running hot.. Then I found out my radiator was busted... Got a new radiator.. Still running hot... Got a new thermostat.. Still running hot... He bleed the system twice... So he thought I had a slight crack in my head gasket I put some blue devil in it.... Let it sealed up... Still running hot... We went and got a water pump... Still running hot!!!! Now it's saying transmission over temp... What else can I do I have a 2006 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
My avg ~180 to 210 depending on what I'm doing. I also have a large active transmission cooler. (Active = fan, Passive = no fan) What does everyone else see?
Next week will be a passive trans cooler. Highest I saw was 210ºF doing lots of donuts, had to stop because engine temps were too high. 160ºF is average running temp.
Nick, i know you have had this mod for a while now and you go off-roading in the summer time and drive around town, but what is the temp you are getting? I'm a little bit over 220, but i have to check with a temp gun for sure. But I just wanted to see what the hottest your has gotten? Any feedback would be great, thanks!
Short drives the gauge barely moves. Highway is usually 120-140. Hot city driving is 140-160. Off-road is 180-200. Donuts and silly stuff it'll climb to 220
Hey man does your XJ always run that hot? I just dropped a new radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and new coolant in it and it runs almost in the red when I'm stopped or just cruising but when I'm hard charging up the mountains I live in it stays cool. I don't get it. It's properly burped and all too. Any suggestions? I'm going to check my water pump tomorrow morning and see how that's going. Also just subscribed after watching a few of your videos!
It only runs hot on the highway, I can idle in traffic all day without a hitch. If you have a heavy duty clutch fan then that should be doing a lot of the grunt work in keeping your engine cool. I've got a dual electric fan setup that does alright for everything but the worst of conditions. I have a new rad i'm going to be dropping in soon, and we will see if that is the final solution to my problem. Is your rad cap new? make sure it actually holds pressure. water pump may have something to do with it but it's odd that you cool when the engine is spinning faster.... hmmm maybe that is water pump related then.
+NickInTimeFilms haha honestly I completely overlooked the radiator cap but if it was bad wouldn't be leaking? my XJ doesn't leak anything anymore (Thank God)! for a while it was like "oh a new puddle, that's cool". now everywhere I park it's dry. but yeah I'm thinking it's my water pump. I'm stumped after that if that doesn't cool it down
Well, the rad cap may not be leaking, but may not hold it's max pressure anymore. If it vents too early then you are losing some of your cooling capacity and that may develop hot spots in the engine. Also, if the engine is running lean you may get overheating issues. But i would check that water pump first.
Same here. A HD clutch fan and a hi-po water pump did the trick. Make sure your shroud is in good shape and tight fitting. Jeep made it important for the XJ those years. '93 XJ
normal trans temp is aprox 175. If it gets hotter, put trans in neutral and run at 1500 rpm to cool trans. It runs hot when towing, off roading and driving slow(air not passing thru radiator). Install an auxillary trans cooler along with the gauge every time. cooler costs less than the gauge.
I pulled from what would have been the fog light bulb but I never had anything in that switch. If you were to splice into the positive wire and leave the bulb in the loop then it would still work. You can alternatively go straight to the headlight switch if you felt like fishing it out and dicking with it.
Nice videos man! I wanted to say that although your temp gauge reads high, don't trust it. My 88 has the same issue and its not overheating. Those temp gauges are notoriously crap, even with a new sender mine reads high. Use a lazer thermometer on your upper hose, you'll probably find that your running just fine. Mine peaks at about 190 with the gauge in the red lol.
Although I haven't accurately tested the dash sender, it certainly gets toasty but you do bring up an interesting point. Newer XJ's get there temperature reading from the sender in the thermostat housing so that may give different readings then the renix one in the back of the head. There is also one in the block as well, so it might be cool to see what all of them read at the same time.
Its not neccesarily the sender, I think its the gauges themselves. If you look at the inside of one its got like a little clockspring inside that springs one way or the other depending on elec. resistance. Haven't really messed with mine to find out but I suspect that spring has gotten weak so it reads wrong.
It has been a thought, but the front of my frame is a little bent so I'm wondering if or how i could get it straightened before I do that, may just do mids for now, don't know
The temp spike your seeing at standstill is because the flow of cooling fluids is slower at standstill. This gets even worse when you turn the engine off. It's called "heat soak".
During running conditions sure, spikes mean excess heat and bad things. But Once it's off it isn't producing any more heat so I guess the fluid absorbs whatever is nearby. It isn't being cooled so I suppose that would relate to the rising temp when off. Dunno, maybe worth investigating.
Back before my 3 row rad, once I shut the engine off the temp would rise another 10ºF. With my all aluminum 3 row it doesn't seems to get hot enough to do that anymore.
Latest video shows all the things I've done to make current mods more effective. But fans don't do much when your going 70 down the highway. Airflow issues seems like the rad is getting clogged outside and in. gonna get an oversized 2 row since mine is only a stock 1 row
Renix 4:0’s run at 210 it’s normal for emissions, I installed a 3 core aluminum radiator, new 195 T Stat and a Gates lower hose now it runs at 190 or less now. My lower was collapsing on the highway causing it over heat so I bought the Gates lower hose.
Couldn't you just clean out the coolant system and use pure distilled water 70-80%? The water is what does the cooling. Antifreeze has anticorrosion and prevents freezing, but if you're using distilled water there won't be any corrosion to begin with.
Sal Fun Cherokees are known to run at 210. It's normal for them. I've owned three different years and they all ran at 210. Even with a new radiator, water pump, t-stat, fresh coolant and perfectly working fans they still sat at 210. His is a little too high though
That's terrible. Do you have a 20 Gal? My Stroker is a little thirsty and the big tires don't help, 12mpg is my average but I can see 14 mpg on the highway.
Honestly the louvers didn't really make a difference. Putting an all aluminum radiator in is what truly killed my heat issues. I'm gonna have to build a restrictor because now the engine runs too cool, lol
+NickInTimeFilms really? Good you got the problem solved. I'm running a 99 Cherokee classic with 4.5rough country long arm with 33x12.5 toyo open country mt. Deerfoot trutrac front and back. It's my first xj and it's a tank. That straight six does get hot. Upgraded rad and electric fan made a big difference for myself as well.
Awesome job once again Nick. Without you and Cruiser Id have really had a time figuring these things out. Most never did!
At low speeds the torq converter not being locked up causes some heat. At roughly 45-50, under cruising conditions and not hard acceleration, the Torq converter locks up, not much heat generated besides parts spinning around. What can heat up the trans too is the radiator actually, the hot antifreeze transfers heat to the transmission. Running a cooler on the return line on the radiator is the way to go, helps cool off the heat the antifreeze added to the transmission fluid.
Thank you for part number :) I'll be doing this install within the month. I too have that torx plug and will definitely be utilizing it, good think I won't loose much fluid. Great video :)
Great advise on where to monitor trans temp. I have watched a ton of these videos and they just measure outgoing fluid to cooler, not actual operating temp in pan. Thanks
I'm so happy I watched this clip. Been looking at installing a temp gauge in my 95 XJ. Can't believe it took me so long to find out about that blanking plug on the gearbox - i would think that was the most obvious place to install the sender unit, but every other method I've seen has been fitting a T piece off a cooler line. Watched your clip last night, checked for the plug on my gearbox this morning, and ordered parts at lunch time. Couldn't get the Autometer parts, but have sourced a SAAS brand gauge and adaptor. Autometer don't seem as widely stocked in Australia. The SAAS adaptor looks a little bit smaller in overall size than the Autometer one, so hoping there isn't much manipulation of the dip stick tube involved. Should help that I'll have the pan dropped to change gearbox filter at the same time. I'll let you know how I get on with the SAAS parts.
i found it easier to get the adapter in before threading the sender in, because that way i was able to tighten the adapter with a socket and not have to go out and get stubby wrenches
my dipstick tube wasnt a bother, I was able to get a deep socket over the sender for the adapter to tighten it in the trans
Nick a few tips. I use an old wire coat hanger to fish wires around in vehicles. Not that your method doesn't work just that sometimes you need something a little stiffer than a heavy wire. On your body style you could have gotten an ignition hot off of the power side of the rear wiper switch. Again nothing wrong with how you did it just throwing it out there for someone who might not be as electrically savy. Lastly a little on why your trans seams to heat up while stopped, and why it runs cooler at highway speeds. When the torque converter is locked up its the most efficient, and creates the least amount of heat (like when cruising in OD, and this is also why you should select 3rd if the trans is hunting when in D because it allows the torque converter to lock up in 3rd). When it's unlocked it's allowing hydraulic slippage between the internal parts of the converter, and that creates heat (like when you're stopped (even in park there will be hydraulic slipping although it's slight), or it's not in a gear selection that allows it to lock up. You never mentioned in the video if you where running an AUX trans cooler, but if you are (or planning on adding one) I always suggest physically locating it on the mechanical fan side as to always get maximum air flow at any speed. I also like to plumb the AUX cooler first, and then the OEM RAD cooler next as this allows the trans to warm up to an acceptable minimum temp as well especially if you live in a climate where the Temps get cold in the winter.
I did install an auxiliary cooler, I was thinking about plumbing it the way you did but ended up doing in the usual way because I wasn't sure about max temperature issues at the time. With my current setup, the transmission usually doesn't go much past 140 unless i'm putting around town on a warm day or pushing it on a trail. This will be my first winter with the setup so if I have major issues then I will look into changing it up a bit.
Great video! Thanks so much. I already bought my gauge (B&M) and relay... this helps me out so much. Definitely doing the same you did for the illumination!
Smashing job , i like the pod mounting, it beats drilling the dashboard :-D
Yeah, gotta save that precious real estate for more switches and other goodies!
Dude I love those crush wings too
Nice work man!
All threads need thread locker when they are going to be holding back liquid or gas. With the Teflon tape 2 layers over your threads and don't over tighten. NPT does not seal properly without a sealant. Cool video thank you.
Australian XJ - The trans lines go into the "hot" side of the radiator so best to bypass factory set up and fit largest aftermarket cooler you can! Keep the smaller factory cooler in the circuit or not -up to you-
Out here it can get pretty cold, so I like that the engine can help warm it up when need be. For a really killer setup I might add a thermostat valve so it can really get to Operating Temp.
Thanks for taking the time to make your helpful videos ! Do you recall what adapter you used in place of the T55 plug ? I`m getting ready to put mine in and researching for the size I don`t have a driveway to play in...
All in the video description ;)
How I missed that... Thanks Nick if your ever in the Vancouver Canada area give me a shout.
Where did you get the gauge pod
Great video man!
Nick what are your plans for the other gauge pod hole
I put a wideband gauge in later
Your Engine temp is running pretty hot
Yes it is. Highway driving is not my friend currently. Got some big cooling mods in order eventually
I would think the trans pump would be flowing more fluid at higher rpm's, like at highway speeds, than at idle in drive. I think that would cause the spike in temp as the trans parts bleed heat into the slower moving fluid, aka "heat soak". The radiator fan will be slower at idle too, and there won't be highway speed air pushing through the radiator and over the bottom of the fluid pan. The pan would radiate some heat at highway speed as well. Sitting in traffic with engine compartment heat blowing under the vehicle would add some heat to the trans pan.
Just my 1/2 cent thought's.
well done sir.
great vid. What other gauge do you plan on putting in? I'm in debate about getting a single gauge pod or a duel. Thanks!
Don't know. May get a wide band o2 gauge to keep tabs on my stroker, or a vacuum gauge for economy driving, or maybe some other fun sensor. if nothing else arises then i may make it into a switch with lights or something.
+NickInTimeFilms sounds good! Can't wait to find out
would it be possible to get a Toyota sensor to fit in that hole?
I'm sure you could since that was it's intended purpose. Part number is #8942935042 and is found on some older 80's-90's toyota trucks. Only issue I can think of is finding a gauge that can properly read the sender output.
Your engine is looking a little hot!
Yeah, high speed overheating is an issue I'm working on. Next few videos will be addressing cooling.
I'd be so annoyed if I had to look at that registration sticker every day haha nice vid
Haha, you get use to it. The leftover glue from the last sticker is more annoying
the best review.
Good video bro
This is what I did to it from yesterday and today on my car
It started running hot.. I bought some antifreeze... It was still running hot.. Then I found out my radiator was busted... Got a new radiator.. Still running hot... Got a new thermostat.. Still running hot... He bleed the system twice... So he thought I had a slight crack in my head gasket I put some blue devil in it.... Let it sealed up... Still running hot... We went and got a water pump... Still running hot!!!!
Now it's saying transmission over temp...
What else can I do I have a 2006 Jeep Cherokee Laredo
This shouldve came stock too because the AW4 heats easily
I need that. What is that white gauge? I haven't watched till the end if you explain it.
What part?
Next to the base of the steering console?
+ATR Footage Factory Oh, lol, that's just a in/out temperature gauge
What size wrench was that stubby? I need to pick one up. 21mm?
It was just an adjustable crescent wrench so I couldn't tell ya
NickInTimeFilms Ok, thanks for the quick reply
My avg ~180 to 210 depending on what I'm doing. I also have a large active transmission cooler. (Active = fan, Passive = no fan) What does everyone else see?
Next week will be a passive trans cooler. Highest I saw was 210ºF doing lots of donuts, had to stop because engine temps were too high. 160ºF is average running temp.
109f-225f I have one passive and one active trans cool
NIce Install. Cool to see a fellow NJ peep.. did you put anything in the 2nd pod? Thanks for sharing
Thanks, ended up putting a Wideband o2 gauge in the upper pod
Nick, i know you have had this mod for a while now and you go off-roading in the summer time and drive around town, but what is the temp you are getting? I'm a little bit over 220, but i have to check with a temp gun for sure. But I just wanted to see what the hottest your has gotten? Any feedback would be great, thanks!
Short drives the gauge barely moves. Highway is usually 120-140. Hot city driving is 140-160. Off-road is 180-200. Donuts and silly stuff it'll climb to 220
NickInTimeFilms thank you brother
What size transmission cooler did you end up installing?
I went with a plate and fin style cooler, video here: ua-cam.com/video/H91jTo9kf7g/v-deo.html
Hey man does your XJ always run that hot? I just dropped a new radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, and new coolant in it and it runs almost in the red when I'm stopped or just cruising but when I'm hard charging up the mountains I live in it stays cool. I don't get it. It's properly burped and all too. Any suggestions? I'm going to check my water pump tomorrow morning and see how that's going. Also just subscribed after watching a few of your videos!
It only runs hot on the highway, I can idle in traffic all day without a hitch. If you have a heavy duty clutch fan then that should be doing a lot of the grunt work in keeping your engine cool. I've got a dual electric fan setup that does alright for everything but the worst of conditions. I have a new rad i'm going to be dropping in soon, and we will see if that is the final solution to my problem.
Is your rad cap new? make sure it actually holds pressure. water pump may have something to do with it but it's odd that you cool when the engine is spinning faster.... hmmm maybe that is water pump related then.
+NickInTimeFilms haha honestly I completely overlooked the radiator cap but if it was bad wouldn't be leaking? my XJ doesn't leak anything anymore (Thank God)! for a while it was like "oh a new puddle, that's cool". now everywhere I park it's dry. but yeah I'm thinking it's my water pump. I'm stumped after that if that doesn't cool it down
Well, the rad cap may not be leaking, but may not hold it's max pressure anymore. If it vents too early then you are losing some of your cooling capacity and that may develop hot spots in the engine. Also, if the engine is running lean you may get overheating issues. But i would check that water pump first.
Same here. A HD clutch fan and a hi-po water pump did the trick. Make sure your shroud is in good shape and tight fitting. Jeep made it important for the XJ those years. '93 XJ
What’s the switch on your shifter?
2nd solenoid override switch. Let's me hold 2nd or 3rd.
normal trans temp is aprox 175. If it gets hotter, put trans in neutral and run at 1500 rpm to cool trans. It runs hot when towing, off roading and driving slow(air not passing thru radiator). Install an auxillary trans cooler along with the gauge every time. cooler costs less than the gauge.
That was literally the next video after this one, Just wanted to see the difference with and without a cooler.
there was a big difference in my bronco when towing and heavy off roading. cooler is well worth the money. happy trails..
Great mod! Does the defrost light still go on?
I pulled from what would have been the fog light bulb but I never had anything in that switch. If you were to splice into the positive wire and leave the bulb in the loop then it would still work. You can alternatively go straight to the headlight switch if you felt like fishing it out and dicking with it.
Audio editing! That's a first :D
Oh believe me, it happens quite a lot, I just try to cut around them. The words don't always come out quite right and need some post help, haha.
what's the normal engine temp? mine stays at 175-190 but yours seems to run a lot hotter.?
This was back when I was having overheating issues. 210ºF Is normal
So is there a problem with mine running around 175-190?
Ehh, not a huge deal. Mine runs about there now with the new radiator. Kinda wish it would heat up more. Might add a restrictor or something.
Alright thanks. Is there any way I can use the old factory fog light switch to hook up some new led pods?
Yeah, easy. You'd have to figure out the wiring but if the led's are under 20 watts then you don't even need a relay
The most impressive part of this video is that you almost have a full tank haha. Just kidding nice video man!
Lol I noticed that too
need to be fixing that rear main leak.
Pan is cracked, but close.
Nice videos man! I wanted to say that although your temp gauge reads high, don't trust it. My 88 has the same issue and its not overheating. Those temp gauges are notoriously crap, even with a new sender mine reads high. Use a lazer thermometer on your upper hose, you'll probably find that your running just fine. Mine peaks at about 190 with the gauge in the red lol.
Although I haven't accurately tested the dash sender, it certainly gets toasty but you do bring up an interesting point. Newer XJ's get there temperature reading from the sender in the thermostat housing so that may give different readings then the renix one in the back of the head. There is also one in the block as well, so it might be cool to see what all of them read at the same time.
Its not neccesarily the sender, I think its the gauges themselves. If you look at the inside of one its got like a little clockspring inside that springs one way or the other depending on elec. resistance. Haven't really messed with mine to find out but I suspect that spring has gotten weak so it reads wrong.
what gear ratio are you running??
4.56
is your frame plated?
nope
do you plan on it? that my biggest worry about my cherokee.
It has been a thought, but the front of my frame is a little bent so I'm wondering if or how i could get it straightened before I do that, may just do mids for now, don't know
The real test will be rock crawling.
With a trans cooler (Next weeks vid) I see 180ºF with average offroading.
The temp spike your seeing at standstill is because the flow of cooling fluids is slower at standstill. This gets even worse when you turn the engine off. It's called "heat soak".
Interesting. But that's technically a good thing because that is heat being pulled away from the thing being cooled right?
Uhh....hmm. I have no idea lol
I would think that any major spike in temp is not a good thing.
During running conditions sure, spikes mean excess heat and bad things. But Once it's off it isn't producing any more heat so I guess the fluid absorbs whatever is nearby. It isn't being cooled so I suppose that would relate to the rising temp when off. Dunno, maybe worth investigating.
I agree with the flow, but engine off is worse? Not.
Back before my 3 row rad, once I shut the engine off the temp would rise another 10ºF. With my all aluminum 3 row it doesn't seems to get hot enough to do that anymore.
I need to do this
your xj runs that hot?
Yes, highway temps get hot. blame the stroker and a shitty rad. working on that.
I have my fans runing all the time wired to the ign and it dropped my temp alot i was runing 220-230 now 180 and 210 wheeling. Also made a fan shrout
Latest video shows all the things I've done to make current mods more effective. But fans don't do much when your going 70 down the highway. Airflow issues seems like the rad is getting clogged outside and in. gonna get an oversized 2 row since mine is only a stock 1 row
Oh i thought you had a upgraded rad i have a 3 row. Aluminum
3 row did shit for me. Pump and fan upgrade was the trick.
175 195 is where ur temp should be i hope u fixed that or that stroker isnt going to last very long
This is an older video, new 3 core all aluminum rad, volvo 2 speed fan, and a custom fan control has kept it nice and cool now.
Renix 4:0’s run at 210 it’s normal for emissions, I installed a 3 core aluminum radiator, new 195 T Stat and a Gates lower hose now it runs at 190 or less now. My lower was collapsing on the highway causing it over heat so I bought the Gates lower hose.
your trucking running hot . should not be over 210. flush and change that thermostat
+Sal Fun Needed more then just a tstat, all aluminum rad and fan upgrade got it under control, tons of videos on it all
Couldn't you just clean out the coolant system and use pure distilled water 70-80%? The water is what does the cooling. Antifreeze has anticorrosion and prevents freezing, but if you're using distilled water there won't be any corrosion to begin with.
Sal Fun Cherokees are known to run at 210. It's normal for them. I've owned three different years and they all ran at 210. Even with a new radiator, water pump, t-stat, fresh coolant and perfectly working fans they still sat at 210. His is a little too high though
Sometimes the gauge itself can be off. Happened to me a few years ago; found another gauge at a junkyard and it works fine now.
man I wish my gas mileage was that good in my jeep, I get 160 per tank
That's terrible. Do you have a 20 Gal? My Stroker is a little thirsty and the big tires don't help, 12mpg is my average but I can see 14 mpg on the highway.
Yea I have 20 gallons with 33 inch tires, 4.0, just not geared right
Gearing might help a bit. A happy engine helps too.
Wood
Get some hood louvers.
Uhhh...... 0:06
+NickInTimeFilms haha. Sorry bud. I skipped the first part to the install. I'm surprised it's running that hot with the louvers as well.
Honestly the louvers didn't really make a difference. Putting an all aluminum radiator in is what truly killed my heat issues. I'm gonna have to build a restrictor because now the engine runs too cool, lol
+NickInTimeFilms really? Good you got the problem solved. I'm running a 99 Cherokee classic with 4.5rough country long arm with 33x12.5 toyo open country mt. Deerfoot trutrac front and back. It's my first xj and it's a tank. That straight six does get hot. Upgraded rad and electric fan made a big difference for myself as well.
+Issac Stuckhardt Detroit trutrac. Lol. Deerfoot is a highway in Calgary.