89 Cherokee Ebay 3 Row All Aluminum Radiator Install
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2024
- 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ Pioneer Renix 4.6L I6 AW4 NP231 6" RE Lift 35"x12.5" KM2s
Ebay "3-ROW FULL ALUMINUM RACING RADIATOR 91-01 JEEP CHEROKEE":
www.ebay.com/it...
or
Ebay "3-ROW FULL ALUMINUM RACING RADIATOR 84-90 JEEP CHEROKEE":
www.ebay.com/it...
Seller: Speed Daddy
Part Number: RACHEROKEE913
This seems like a run of the mill chinese radiator that is rebranded by a lot of companies. In the future, you may have to do some searching to find them as the brand may change.
Modifications Needed:
The area by the lower trans cooler line fitting needed more clearance
The Core Support need more clearance to fit the larger radiator cap
The bottom fan mounting tabs needed to be cut much closer to the radiator
Temperatures have dropped dramatically with this all aluminium rad to the point that it may not be getting up to operating temperature. This is with a stock 195ºF Thermostat. Might be the older renix gauges that read funny, but she stays very cool now and I can drive it without fear of overheating anymore. Good product for the price.
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To cut open filters for inspection never use a hack saw. Not only is it 10x harder, that casing is pretty hard metal, but it also contaminates your filter media. Instead, use a tool similar to like a pipe cutter with an edged wheel that you spin around the filter housing and adjust more tension as you go. Works fast and easy.
Great video! I'm learning a lot about these cars before I buy one this winter
Did you ever get a Cherokee
Okay, alright, subscribed. Yes I have an XJ now, yes XJ was my first vehicle, yes your videos have been helpful on multiple occasions, but I just like watching your stuff. Thanks for what you do!
Great video. I'm watching it for some clarification and entertainment while I'm waiting for the sun to come up so I can beat the rain. I bought a similar one for $112 and some change delivered. The rubber seal around the high pressure tranny inlet blew and the aluminum design prevents that from happening again. Only time I've driven my XJ on the road so far was to the shop for a "state inspection" partly because that leak developed on me and I didn't wanna drive it that way much in the winter since $14/gallon would be dripping on the road. That Jeep definitely wasn't up to state standards but there's a shop here to ignore that.
Amendment (8 months later): Today I tried to put the cooling fan back in, it make me realize how annoyed I am at this radiator. You’d think that they can manufacture things properly to not require modification. They also left slag in the filler neck so it would have to be filed/cut off to put a pressure tester in. Right now it all just has me pissed off.
Once I have mine Jheap fixed properly I will address all cooling issues by simply going straight to this AL radiator. THANK YOU Nick! Just saved me a bundle on my car insurance. Maybe some decade my woman will ride in it with me then with the overheating taken care of.
What a fight every step of the way, never dead easy, but you enjoy the challenge :-D
Custom modding nick style :-D
No cardboard was abused in this episode of "Nick's Fix", (C)1985 Custom Cardboard Ltd.
Ive been watching your Vids for a while (luv the AvE references) Just picked up super modified 88 XJ beater since my TJ is pretty much stock.
These vid have been a wealth of knowledge. ty
Put in a switch to turn fans on or off as you need. Turning off in winter will get engine to operating temp and you won't freeze your nuggets off in the winter.
I've got a 2-row alu radiator and I get pretty much the same readings. Same on road, veeeeery long idles get it to 210, then the e-fan takes control and while wheeling locked on 1st gear is goes between 210 and the next line, e-fan constantly on and my still working mechanical fan doing good work.
I guess the new fan clutch is the main difference here, since it matches the revs and probably keeps the temperature changes a bit smoother.
Those mechanical fans can cool quite a bit, especially with a good shroud on them.
Just a tip for ya... You're always supposed to use the flush products before you replace parts. Now you have some junk stuck in your new radiator. The filter helps I'm sure but still... for next time.
Yeah, I figured, but just incase the new rad had any weird things in there I went with the flush after.
Your type of water has something to do with it but must people don't replace their antifreeze often enough. Antifreeze actually turns somewhat acidic over time that's what eats your radiator.
Hello from Australia man, I have an eBay 3core the same as that in mine, it's good shit. I too had the drain plug problem. I did a 300km drive and the drain plug further failed and warped, I replaced it with a brass plug then later an aluminium adapter and a temp sender lol... I also had the issue with the lower fan mounts. And another problem I had was the aluminium plug on the back came loose. So yea I suggest throwing a better drain plug in it, other than that Iv had no other problems. Good vids bro
Thanks for the heads up, it didn't look like the best of plugs. Do you happen to remember what the thread pitch was?
"good shit" but lots of problems?
hey nick mind if i poke ur brain? my 96 4.0 never used to overheat until recently. only does it above 55mph it will creep up after prolonged trips 10-20 mins above 55 mph eventually to 230 or so till i slow down and it will come back down to about 215 on my obd2 scanner. new water pump new factory radiator new fan clutch thermo and waterpump. bypassed heater core also running out of ideas. runs around town and idling and offroad right on the middle mark with a/c on and all. new upper and lower rad hoses too. checked for exhaust gases in radiator via chemical test and they show negative.
NIck, you know the block rusts with the antifreeze/water mix. There is something you can use where it will never rust and you will never have to flush. Waterless coolant. I have 4 gallons ready to go for my XJ. Now that I have seen this video i am thinking of getting a 3 row radiator Along with my home made 3 electric fan kit and my HiLine offroad louvered hood panels (nice and big plates woth lots of louvers. It has groups of louvers and some facing forward and others are facing backwards). I bet i can get at least 60% better cooling and better when going slow too. Thanks for the video Nick!
I've looked into waterless coolant for years. Sounds like great stuff, never needs to be changed, doesn't create any pressure when it's hot, and doesn't cause any corrosion. You know what it is, basically just a 100% glycol, antifreeze without the water. lol. Biggest down fall is it doesn't conduct heat as well so you will usually have higher operating temperatures.
Higher boiling point off sets any heat issues PLUS 3 core radiator, 3 fan kit, full hood louver system should keep it cool. :)
There isn't much left on your XJ that you haven't upgraded in one way or another. I wish mine could be even half as nice as yours one day. I'm still working on it as much as I can.
All it takes is time.... and a very forgiving bank account. haha
and living somewhere where salt doesn't wreck your cars in 10 years. ;)
It's very entertaining watching you do things the hard way! LOL
FYI: Give up on the XJ platform and switch over to an LJ or TJ. Much easier and they'll out-preform an XJ all day long!
Try using "CLR", Calcium, Lime & Rust Remover and flush well, then add coolant.
What's really cool about the 3-row (even a 2-row) aluminum radiator is that it will extend the life of the transmission by cooling the fluid well below the ability of a single core radiator. I ordered an aluminum radiator for my new LJ two weeks ago and it should be here any day now.
Give up on the XJ. Do....do you know who I am?! There is nooooo way I would trade this beast in for an overpriced wang wrangler. haha. XJs: because only girls take their tops off.
LOL, but on a more serious note If I ever need a good chemical flush I may look into it. As for the benefits of Trans cooling, I've got a Trans Temp Gauge and External Cooler. The cooler dropped trans temps by about 20ºF. And although the radiator keep the coolant cooler and there is technically a little more cooling ability for the built in Trans cooler, I have not noticed any lower temps than with the old radiator.
+NickInTimeFilms A mildly bolt LJ/TJ will do circles around a heavily modified XJ. I'm speaking from real life experience having gone from a Mildly built 2000 XJ, which I still own, to a mildly built 2006 LJ Unlimited Rubicon. The Rubicon is a freakin' beast!!! Cheers!
Haha, well I'll give you props because LJ's are still cool. Although I've never driven a wrangler, the only main modification advantage you guys have is that you can fit pretty large tires right out of the box. I've been through a few big wheeling trips and it may just be that my rig is heavily built but I've gotten through things that most of the wrangler could not. I think it really depends on the driver and their ability to effectively use their vehicle.
+NickInTimeFilms Sure, the driver obviously plays a huge part, but we're talking about the vehicle. If/when you drive an LJ off-road, you'll understand...you don't know what you don't know!
I had the same highway over heating problem. I replaced everything and it still overheated. It turned out to be the cheap ass lower radiator hose collapsing when it got hot and the the revs were up causing a suction collapse. I installed a Gates lower hose and no more problems.
Stock radiator? I’m having the same issues with my XJ
That lower trans cooler line is copper. need to keep it away from the body metal because it will wear through the copper very quickly. (89 Comanche owner)
So Nick. My dude. My not-so-local renix man lol. I did my open conversion about three months ago. Same rad as you, but with a 1.3bar pressure cap instead. A couple generic 10" 12v fans and mounting kits, an inline temperature sensor (upper rad hose) on a relay (60amp) to kick on at 210 and off at 195. I just installed a 200a 7897-11 BNR alternator to assist with the new led headlights I put in, and for the moment my electrical system isn't fucked. And my cooling system is working fantastically! I am having issues with a coolant leak up front however.. believe it to be the radiator. I've triple checked my hose clamps, all radiator/heater hoses are new. I'm losing it at such a slow rate that I can just add to it at the end of every week and be okay. But I'd like to know of a good quality 3-core rad that won't break my wallet (or lack thereof as I'm in the process of buying my first house). Any help would be appreciated. Want something that'll be a "bolt-on" with the current mods it has (cut and filed core support to accommodate the fill cap of open cooling system). Preferably all aluminum.. I've cracked too many plastic rads.
Hmm, that is quite the predicament. Not able to track down any pinholes? Have you seen any wet spots to know where it's coming from? If retightening the clamps after a few heat cycles didn't work then that kinda sucks.
As for a "quality but cheap" all aluminum design, none come to mind. I went Mishimoto really out of desperation in hopes that theres woild actually hold up. It's been doing good so far. I would trust the eBay junk and re-branded deals as far as I can throw them, and the ridiculous markup on other brands doesn't seem to even bring any benefit. That I'd a tough one indeed.
I just did a new heater core/blower fan, and a new Stant 210 degree thermostat. New water pump about 3000 miles ago, new timing gears and chain while I was in there for shits and giggles. Essentially the whole cooling system minus the engine *head* and block.. is new. Ready for a solution, hopefully in the sub $300 range. Sick of seeing and smelling the green stuff, it's annoying after all the work I've done. I know these aluminum eBay rads aren't the best quality but goddamn. Seems like everyone has leak issues with them sooner or later, I'm sure of that with xj's at least. Has there ever been a case of someone getting a GOOD eBay rad that lasted years with proper coolant maintenance???
@@NickInTimeFilms understood. So roughly $400 for a mishimoto unit on eBay, correct? You say you've been running one? How long?? And did it require any additional modding of your '89 to install?
I think i got my on Amazon, but I've had it the last year and half or so and it's been just fine. I had to notch my frame a bit for the trans cooler liner but otherwise fairly happy with it. Whole install vid on it of course
@@NickInTimeFilms my man. Thank you. How much did you get it for, if you don't mind me asking? I see em for $397ish, free shipping on fleabay. Just wanna make sure I'm not buying a fake.. with all good things in life comes a garbage quality clone.
well Nick, I got my cooling system working ay-o-kay by purchasing a stock radiator from radiator express ($100 after s & h and tax) and a ZJ fan clutch ($37 from o'reilly) and my jeep wouldn't even hint at overheating even in 90+ degree weather with AC on MAX and I am about 3 hours into a road trip up to the Sierra Nevadas last weekend and out of all things my m-fan bearing slid out of the AC Compressor Bracket and pushed one of the support rods of my radiator into the fins damaging and ruining my 3 day old radiator. And let me tell you, i still had almost an inch of clearance between the rad and fan clutch. so now my jeep is stuck at a radiator shop in a small town 4 hours away from where I live (that was the closest shop that was open on labor day weekend) awaiting a new radiator and AC Compressor Bracket (which is not easy to track down) so I am without a ride for the next week. LUCKY ME lol!
Geeze, that post went from great to not-so-great real quick. Sucks that the bearing went out on you. Those brackets are still pricey from the dealership and the bearings aren't the easiest to find either. Glad it worked while it did, best of luck.
lol yeah. i actually had this exact issue happen 2 times before at the end of last year. bought a shitty used one from a local jeep depot that squeaked (but worked long enough to get me to school and back until it went out again over winter break) so i ordered the bearing itself (it is a water pump bearing from a willys jeep i believe) and had to ghetto install it by removing the bracket and using a hammer and the old bearing to get it in. the bearing was fine up until this road trip sadly. and the bracket isn't produced anymore by chrysler but the used bracket from J & W Auto Wreckers is $75 so that arrives tomorrow at the shop. the sales guy said it was in good condition but we'll see. almost wonder if the zj fan almost literally spun so fast it got enough propulsion to pull the bearing out with it lol!
Thats what I was thinking, vibration and the pulling force of the fan was enough to pull the bearing out. I thought they had a shoulder so that it could only be removed from the back.
not that i saw. it would be smart to have that but the only shoulder stops it from coming out of the back. so basically the opposite of what you said, the logical way of engineering a part like this.
the only shoulder it has*
Thanks for the video. I've been debating on going with one of these to try & cool my 91 Cherokee Laredo better. Going to also go with a high flo water pump.
I should have asked you if you had ran your heater on high to flush out the heater core also. I've always added the flush kit tee into the heater hose & clamped each side with a pair of vice grips with the garden hose attached to the tee. Flushes everything pretty good that way through the radiator fill.
I had the heat on, but that won't affect the flush at all since there is no heater control valve, it will always flow through the heater core
+NickInTimeFilms Oh OK. I did finally watch the video through & I see that you have the filter installed in the heater hose & flushed well with filter off.
Thanks for quick response,I'll take another look
Actually the temp being at 160-180 is quite normal while driving, mines the same, i live in Az with 110+ weather haha mine goes to 210 or alittle more but with the ac on and I don't have issues goes right back down, I also do have dual electric fans off a Chevy Malibu which throw crazy amounts of air
Well, for maximum efficiency it should be running around 210 but the gauges can read funny at times. I would like mine to run a little warmer but atleast I'm not overheating.
+NickInTimeFilms that is true, but having lower temps while driving is actually better, and going to 210 while idle or traffic is normal, anything about 220 is bad, head gaskets start popping, I work at dodge and yeah, we see alot of broken gaskets for that same reason
Hey Nick, quick question mate. Is the radiator you are having problems with the one you used to replace the original radiator, when you switched from a closed to an open cooling system? I'm about to make the transition so I was watching your video about to start buying the parts when I noticed this video. Should I just buy this radiator instead?
Watch the mishimoto video to see what happens after this. The original replacement was ok but eventually leaked. This ebay one leaked after like a year.
Your tstat may be stuck open if its overcooling like that
Knowing what you know now, if you had to do it all over again would you just upgrade to the bigger aluminum radiator and kept it as a closed system? I live in Arizona and have overheating issues on freeway only. Do you think the bigger radiator was the ultimate issue with your cooling problems?
Hmmm, interesting question. If I did it again I'd probably still go the open route becuase losing all your coolant from an overpressure blowout sucks.
And 99% if it's highway overheat then the radiator is not providing enough cooling or lack of airflow. If I could only pick one cooling mod fix, it'd be this. Incredible how much of a safety net I have now as far as staying cool.
Nick, need HELP! Did the Ebay fan swap out with the 2 electric fan purchase. Live in S.Texas and the temps have been 95 plus. Changed water pump, 195 thermostat, 195 tem sensor at thermostat, clutch fan delete, upper and lower hoses and flushed 8 or 9 times. Temp was running at about 210 (normal) then I turned on AC and it immediately started climbing and I shut off just before hitting red. Coolant mix proper, air bubbles gone, proper level in tank. My fans that came with the radiator fit tight and suck good air. However I am only getting one quiet I think slow speed. My kit came with no directions. Can I make them 2 speed to flow better when A/C comes on. Must have A/C in S. Texas. Amonth ago I had no problems at same temps. It was just the clutch fan going out and my wanting to upgrade that I changed. Now I have more problems than when I started. I would swear I had a head gasket leak or cracked head the way it is acting. Oil is perfect and no sign of head gasket leak. Help please Buck.
I was in the same boat as you, mech fan bearing went out and I decided to go dual electric. Mech fans pull way more air with a heavy duty clutch so it's hard to get back to stock. the 95+ XJ Efans pull decent, and the volvo 2speed fan i installed pulls a decent amount on high with a good shroud. Most cheapo ebay fans ain't worth squat. If there is only one positive and a ground then it's a one speed.
First thing you have to figure out is if it's an airflow problem or a heat capacity problem. If you can cruise on the highway with your A/C on and limp by but overheat in the city then it's airflow and you need beefier fans.
If speed doesn't matter or in my case it actually get's hotter on the highway, then you need more cooling capacity and a beefy radiator like this will help more.
You can also try using a coolant restrictor which is basically just chunk of cutting board that is cut into a donut that sits in your upper rad hose right after the thermostat. It's suppose to keep the pressure in the head higher which raised the boiling point and help the coolant flow at a better rate. Some articles around that talk about the effects of different sizes.
Thanks, rather than replacing brand new radiator, I will try to find 2 speed efans. Hate to go back to oem system but may have to. Do not want to go through fabbing shrouds like you did. Speed did not matter, if I turned on A/C it wanted to get hot.
Well if speed doesn't matter then it might be an issue with not having enough cooling capacity. What radiator did you go with in particular? This ebay one blew my old rad so far out of the water it's not even funny. I have tried all kinds of crap and this radiator was the only thing to actually put my overheating to rest.
I bought the 3 core aluminum with 2 fans, do not know the cfm. I just ordered brand new twin 11" fan in one complete shroud 2800cfm, shroud is to tall but I plan on trimming to make fit. I believe it is almost 3 times the cfm and am going to put on switch inside. Should be here in a week. Get back with you. thanks again for the quick response.
@nickintimefilms, do you think the filter helps with cooling a little also ? Seems it could be a spot for some heat exchange to happen also.
I'm sure it does give a small amount of extra cooling capacity as it's metal surface area may radiate some heat, but I'd doubt it's noticeable. Maybe I'll have to measure temps going in and coming out and see how much it dissipated. I'll make it a blanket for winter. haha
you said the xj got hot but after you installed the new rad you said at 210F you never seen it that high. are you high?
wonder how it will do in the winter with making heat for the heater. might have to block the grill to make it stay hotter. but for the summer thats great might have to change mind out. are you planing on doing a long term review on it?
If I feel the need to say more about it later than I certainly will. I'm also curious how it does in winter. My jeep didn't even like to get up to temp in the winter with the old rad either. Wondering if the cleaner system will help with that.
that could be. you are very right with stop leak being some nasty stuff! look forward to the long term review on it
Sorry if somebody else else ask you already
What are you overall review on the radiator? Just had an accident on my xj and ill be getting a 3 row one from eBay also what are your thoughs on the electric fans from eBay thanks in advance for your time and help keep the good work!!!
Still absolutely love this radiator and would buy another one. Not too sure on the ebay fans though. I haven't had any personal experience with them but I always feel like they are over rated compared to what they will actually output.
Thanks again bud i ask you a couple things a few weeks ago about a break in a remanufactured engine! i got my engine done myself without any help just me and your vids thanks for your good work man
hey buddy.! hope you're doing well....! I need a advice... I have a broken radiator on my 2000 xj... I don't do off road.. just normal driving but I like the idea to upgrade to a better radiator..... I like the one you have but this is my question .... do you have any problem with the gas efficiency? please let me know.. will help me a lot in my decision to bay a new radiator. thanks...
+carlos salmeron Hard to comment on fuel efficiency since I have 35" tires and a 4.6L stroker, haha. It takes longer to get up to temperature but otherwise does well for my needs
NickInTimeFilms yeaaaa man. I know.... I gest for my needs might be to much.... but thanks for your comment..! it makes me understand a little bit more what I need. have a good one....!
how are you liking the eBay radiator? I opted for a new stock style one last summer, instead of a cheap eBay one. How much betyer does it cool?
Still doing good and cooling WAY more than the stock one did. I had some electric fan issues and could still keep the engine cool just by driving, still very happy with it
I think it's pretty strange how you had issues on the highway but not at idle. mine is the opposite but my my e fan on a toggle switch it holds a tad above 210. on the beach though it sometimes get way too hot. I thought it would get better with 35s 4.88 and a truetrac but nope. I'm probly gonna need a nice radiator like that
I have the same problem with mine. I have a 2 row aluminum radiator. it gets hot on the highway and while sitting still. I have ac though, kind of have to in Florida.
If you're experiencing hear soak at idle and not highway, I'd guess it's because your fans aren't working properly. That would cause your car to overheat during idle, but the high winds of highway driving push through and maintain airflow through the radiator
what i see is symptoms of a stuck open thermostat or a very low temp one installed. and with that cooling fan your temp gauge should stay at thermostat degree on highway/town no matter what.
Stock Temp thermostat. Over the years I have finally got it dialed in to where it runs properly. The system takes a little while to fully get up to temperature, but now that I've got about 4 different temperature probes I can see when the t-stat opens, how well the radiator is cooling, what the block temp is and the head temp so I can get a real good feel of it all. With my Fan Controller and Mishimoto Rad it sits at a solid 210-215ºF now.
what are your opinion on the mechanical fan. i personally think that it pulls more air at idle than the electric + more reliable off road. and just a tip if you are looking for a powerful fan next time get nissan maxima from 2002 or the alitima fan 2 speed very powerful and dirt cheap
I think with proper fan shroud and a ZJ clutch the mechanical fan pull more air, but it also sounds like a 747 trying to take off under the hood, robs engine power, and takes longer to warm up in the winter. I've got a volvo 2-speed fan and it pulls well enough for my needs. I'll keep an eye out for Nissan fans in the feature though.
Hey hows it going man. I have a question for you. Since i replaced my engine in august, i went through 2 radiators from autozone. I know they are the plastic junk. And a few things i read online about the 3 row is that it isnt good unless u tow. I was thinking about putting a 2 row in the jeep. Would that help? Also im going to replace the mechanical fan also. Could you give me any pointers please? Thanks for your videos man!
I really had my heart set on a wide 2 row becuase I figured it was more efficient than a thinner 3 row, but this radiator has blown me away. It has stood up to everything I've done MUCH better than the stocker I was running before. I can drive on the highway and climb up steep grades without a care in the world now. This was the only mod to truly fix my cooling issues.
As for the mechanical fan, understand that it's hard to beat it with an electric fan. A good heavy duty clutch will pull more air than an e fan ever will, bit it will sound like a 747 under the hood. I would say to swap in a good aluminum radiator like this and then reevaluate the system. You probably won't even need mess with the fans after this. If you're still set on going full electric, I have a video on a volvo fan install.
So, how long have you ran it with the filter? Are you satisfied with the amount of circulation?
I ran the filter for about 150 miles before curiosity got the best of me and I cut it open. It wasn't quite full to the brim of crap, but there was certainly a decent dusting of crap on most of the medium. Put another one on, got about a 1,000 miles on it but haven't noticed a difference in flow performance but that's kinda hard to judge... Here's the inside of the filter if you didn't see it yet 22:43
Did I get you right that there's actually a filter you put in your cooling system looks like an oil filter are you saying that was not an oil filter that was a filter for your radiator that's interesting do they have them for Ford Rangers?
Yes, I have a dedicated coolant filter installed before my heater core to keep the system clean. It's doing an excellent job at getting out all the crap that was not able to flush out by hand. I have a whole install video and follow up as well if you search up XJ coolant filter.
Is there a bypass on that or does all the water going through the radiator go through that that might been part of your heating problem. A dirty filter
No, these filters are not "full flow" filters and must be mounted on a secondary line. The thermostat splits off to the upper radiator and the heater core, both returning to the water pump. This way if the filter was ever severely clogged the coolant still has a path to flow.
The filter keeps the dirt out of the heater core which let's it do it's job better. Last year I pulled the hose to flush it while changing the filter and the back flush was crystal clear. That's the first time I have ever seen that before.
This video is older and does not showy current setup now that the bugs have been worked out. I now run a Mishimoto aluminium rad because this one leaked after a year. I also have an electric fan controller that let's my engine get up to full operating temperature so it blows hot enough for my needs.
I had a 3 core all metal rad, not aluminum, 195 therm and my temp gage needle would never go past the center line.
I have since replaced antifreeze and block temp sensor. Now it overheats.
Replaced water pump, t stat, 2 core metal rad, old one had crap stuck in it. Still over heats. Just dont get it.
It's a mystery. I wonder if a high performance water pump would help. One of thesr days I want to hook up an oil temp sensor and see if maybe an oil cooler would help with temps.
I have a 89 Jeep Cherokee the big trans cooler they come with help a lot with heat.
good shit. now all the effort in electric fans almost seems redundant lol is your Trans cooler in front of one of the fans or did you put it right in the middle?
In front of the secondary fan. i'm kind of happy i got to experiment with the fans when the cooling system kinda sucked becuase i could measure efficiency a little easier. Now i know i can push it that much further and have the airflow to keep up.
+NickInTimeFilms yea, touché. I have the factory cooling system with the stupid pressure bottle & my temp has just about never gone passed the middle/factory mark on the temp Guage. once it does i flip on my electric fan and it gets handled
The closed cooling systems aren't half bad as long as that cap seals good. It just sucks if it ever lets go cuz you loose a bunch of coolant when it boils over.
+NickInTimeFilms lol that happened one time if you loosen the cap slowly you can bleed off the pressure without the geyser of coolant, except the cap split right up the side and shot half off, thankfully towards the food instead of me and everything got soaked lol
+artardFTW hood* not food lol
Could you email me a parts list and part #'s for the coolant system filter and the transmission external filter setup ? Along with the 2 speed fan and trans temp gauge ? ....... I am finishing up my 99 Dakota Crawler project and I would like to add some safeguards to protect all of the new parts .... I can leave my email on here or I can pm it on FB if that would be better ...Keep up the good work ... And Thanks for taking the time to share your findings and mistakes ........
are you not worried about rubbing a hole in the trans cooler line?
It's hard to tell but the fan has a little shroud at the bottom specifically to keep the lines from hitting the fan.
Is that holding up good looking to get one myself
It's doing fantastic, had to turn my second fan off just to get up to temperature in the winter. I'd HIGHLY recommend it for a cooling mod.
NickInTimeFilms hey thanks man. I have electric fans cools great this look like a better design over stock 👍🏻
did you change your water pump? there is 2 different directional impellers. stn. and rev.
I did replace the water pump when I put the new stroker in. The one I got from Rockauto was a Gates 42004 which is a reverse rotation. Makes sense becuase the pump is driven off the flat side of the belt which spins opposite of the crank.
Thx for sharing. How is that radiator holding up? Thx
Terribly. Leaked after a year and a half so i went mishimoto
@@NickInTimeFilms thx for the info. It look really good. But I'm glad I didn't ordered mine from eBay. Purchased one from orally auto parts. Plastic and metal. Who knows how long it's gonna last. At least I know how to replace one. Thanks for the info mate. That should help others.
wild question... it may just be the camera but it seems that your engine was running a little rough... just the camera orrrrrrr
It runs a little erratically when it's cold, part to do with the stroker, part to do with heavy duty motor mounts.
+NickInTimeFilms you told me this via facebook, I'm Alex we talked recently. I thought you meant winter. that's very peculiar. congrats on the cooling system though at least that's one complication down
you watch AvE's vids too much lol I pick up all of his phrases you use
Been thinking about trying one of these on my 96 XJ. So no complaints yet?
If you need to remove heat, this will do it. I had to reseat my lower rad hose because it was dripping a bit but everything seems fine. I've only put on a few hours of use so far but nothing catastrophic yet. I may have to look into some kind of restrictor for the winter time though.
I live in FL, so it's rather toasty here. I need to remove lots of heat.
how is it crawling speeds I got two xjs 87 an 98 the 87 I'm still building the 98 is my daily driver an off road one at the moment an I'm have problem with it cooling OK.
This thing is a cooling beast. My only complaint is it runs a little cold now, haha. Building a fan controller to let it warm up more. It solved my highway overheat issue, and no issues on the trail or traffic at all.
I've seen more issues with those 3 row generics, I think they may be too thin for how many cores there are
I had a hell of a time finding a radiator that I was happy with. I compared over 10 brands and it seemed like they were either priced through the roof or hard terrible reviews. Amazingly, this rad scored pretty well in all categories. Maybe I'll start showing my comparison spreadsheets in videos lol. And for the price, I wouldn't be too made even if it did crap out in a few years. Hoping for the best though.
Yeah every case is different, I had a 2 core very similar to that one, and it wasn't running any cooler than the cheapo factory replacement I replaced it with
Tube Thickness, Total Core Thickness, and Fins per Inch all play an important role in determining how effective the radiator will be. This one has a core thickness of 2" which is decently thick so I figured it would do well. I'll have to do further testing to see if this thing is actually overcooling or if my gauge reads funny.
I hit the link and see its for a rad 91 and up. But it fits yours, mostly 😜 You think it would fit my 90 with stock engine??
I switched to the newer open cooling system years ago so I got the new rad. They sell the closed system version as well. Updated my links for you.
+NickInTimeFilms Thanks. I will switch over to open system, seems everyone says it's better. Always great info
NickInTimeFilms Well bought the radiator and had it installed. Works great. Mechanic said old rad looked original. Runs cool and can now climb mountains with A/C on at 210deg 😁 Thanks for the info, real happy!!!
Awesome, glad it helped you out. Mine is still doing great.
Great job man
Good stuff. I should probably replace mine.
Quick question do all jeeps have electric fan,I have 1996 jeepCherokee sport can't find wire for it
I'm pretty sure all 4.0L's came with a driver side electric fan. should be a plug somewhere
Mine 93 5 speed didn't come with one, but my 95 automatic one did.
Both are ' Sport ' trim.
Check you transmission level wen you finish install the radiator
I'm curious about your Volvo cooling fan... any idea what it came out of, roughly?
ua-cam.com/video/S5ltI1XCR6g/v-deo.html
1997 - 2000 Volvo S70 or V70 2-Speed Electric Fan
+NickInTimeFilms Sweet, thanks man!
Why is your ac compressor below the alternator.
Because Reasons... Gotta keep the Alt nice and dry some how. The bracket was in a recent video.
Old video but I just wanna know how that radiator held up. Don't wanna buy a overpriced Mish or koyo radiator and wanna stay away from that plastic garbage. Wondering if this radiator is a too good to be true kinda thing. And the AvE style video absolutely makes me roll 😂
Nah, this was typical eBay garbage. Popped after a year and I went mishimoto instead. Been fine ever since.
do all xjs have cooling issues or just the renix years?
Not all, but most. The XJ wasn't originally designed to fit the 4.0L but they squeezed it in later which made cooling a challenge.
NickInTimeFilms would you recommend daily driving one and taking a long trips?
When they are stock or built right they aren't bed for trips, but the mileage ain't great.
I've had CJ's with the 258 L6 and 304 V8 with small stock radiators. The V8 didn't even have a fan shroud. Once warm, the temp needle never ever moved on those engines. Highway or off-road. Don't know why the 4.0L runs so hot. Of course they were manuals and didn't have trans coolers. Or AC condensers blocking the radiator.
My 99’ sure heats up... such a headache
i saw they had this same fan with 3 electric fans on it. do you think thats a good idea? id love to ditch the engine fan.
If the fans pull decent and have good shrouds then it might be an idea. With this rad even just the stock e-fan by itself is enough to cool the engine in all but tough conditions. For me this radiator is just amazing at pulling heat, gonna make a custom fan controller so my engine can get back up to operating temp though.
Thanks for the reply. Would I need to do a 2 stage fan switch or just hook then up in place of the stock fan?
You could do a 2 stage switch if you want, or have them all trigger together. You just need to make sure that you're not overloading the relay you choose.
NickInTimeFilms ok that sounds like the way to do it. just wire in a big relay.
Wondering if that radiator is still holding up till this day??
Hell no, this thing started pissing out the side after a little over a year. Went mishimoto and have been much happier with the quality
Why don't you try Waterless coolant? Like Evans radiator fluid.
I have thought about it before. Sounds pretty amazing the way they advertise it. Lifetime coolant that never creates pressure, has a very high boiling point, flows slower at cool temperatures to facilitate warm up, and other benefits.
The only issue I have with it is that there is a reason car companies don't use it. It basically just 100% Ethylene Glycol which doesn't transfer heat as well as water does, that's why we dilute it in the first place. So you won't have hotspots or pressure spikes, but your average running temperature will be 15-20ºF hotter. I'm not too sure how that effects an engine, but I'm thinking it's not good for tight clearances that need to stay cool enough to not bind.
ya . I was also thinking about mixing purple ice with Evans. i have had heating problems with my 1990 Cherokee ever since i had it. almost 3 years. On Saturday I was at a drive thru. and i heard a noise, and didn't think much about it and all I sudden i seen steam coming up from my engine, and my temp was pegged at 260 so i have been researching. and thought about mixing purple ice and evans.
Evans is a total solution, you can't mix it with other antifreeze products or you won't get any of the benefits.
Cooling issues are usually grouped into 3 categories:
Overheating in Traffic: Not enough airflow from fans/ inefficient radiator/ worn cooling system
Overheating on the highway: Not enough airflow: Radiator blockage/ debris/ worn cooling system
Overheating in all conditions: Low coolant/ pressure leak from worn components/ water pump worn/ clogged radiator.
For my truck, I had highway issues where the radiator just couldn't keep up with the heat my engine was producing. I tried messing around with all manner of things, and finally decided to try and aluminum radiator. That was BY FAR the biggest result it getting my temperatures down, so much so that I may need to look into a restrictor for the winter.
Oh ok, I didn't know that thanks for the tips
Stop leak....man the previous owner ran that through my Jeep too. Been trying to clean it out for years too. Such a horrible product. I've been thinking about installing a filter to see if it'll help reduce some of the horrible goop.
I've flushed this system a dozen times and even got the engine rebuilt and there is still some in there. Very happy I have the coolant filter on, makes me feel a lot better about the system.
Any idea why my dash lights dont work? bulbs inside the dash cluster work but they dont turn on dk why.
They can be a little tricky. They have their own separate fuse so check the panel to see if any are blown. I had an issue where the previous owner just left a rats nest of wires behind the radio he installed, and the dash positive wire started to wear though so if you pushed the radio back in too hard it would short out and pop the fuse. I think that also popped my brake light fuse for some reason too.
Besides that, maybe a loose wire on the headlight switch
What's the filter for that appears to be going to your heater core?
Exactly what you think it is; a coolant filter. I wanted to make sure all the sand and stop-leak was out of my engine for good so I added it in before the heater core. Hopefully it keep the core clean as well so the heat stays hot. ua-cam.com/video/Gzl78i8vh2U/v-deo.html
My bronco has the same cooling issues yours had, 30 year old radiator may be to blame lol
This has by far made the biggest impact on my engine temperatures. If you can only choose one, this is the one to do.
dude thats a filter for the coolant ? never seen one before
Yup, got a whole video on it. It's been doing great so far.
Good Video on the Cut-Apart Filter. Also, why don't you take your Thermostat out and never have to worry overheating again, LOL.
Ha, funny guy. I also enjoy staying above freezing in the winter :^)
+NickInTimeFilms - Ok, 2nd option.... Get the Thermostat that is 160F Degree. That would keep your Jeep a bit Cooler :D.
thats funny i had to cut a piece out of my core support as well when i installed my ebay fan looks good
have u had any issues with the speed daddy rad im going to buy one
+Gino Pecori Nope, still running strong and cool
NickInTimeFilms ok thank u im going to give it a try then
>Using regular non-distilled water in the radiator
>Wonders why its draining with a tint of rust
Only use distilled water in your radiator.... regular water has minerals that cause rust and will DESTROY your engine...
He uses distilled water in his cooling system ... The build up is mostly just old parts ..... Also , distilled water will still allow electrolysis , at a slower rate but it still happens ... So rust is inevitable , unless you use a water-less coolant ....
Ever heard of Corrosion Inhibitor ??? As the name implies it stops corrosion.... and it can be used with normal water ...
Ive heard of it , and used it ....... Rust will still form , just not as fast ............. But it will still show up eventually ........
No it won't ..corrosion inhibitor will last like 2 years...so after 2 years tip some more in...easy
Joe Blow it's called inhibitor, not prevention. Inhibitors only slow the process down like Norman said. So yes, it will still form just a lot slower.
I have this same radiator, and it doesn't allow enough air through it without having to use big uprated fans, so it slowly creeps up over 200 miles.
and your temp is actually way too low. it is running super rich and wasting gas.
How long have you had the radiator for? I went on a 40 mile highway trip, and delivered in it for a day and it never crept over 175ºF. I have to look into the overcooling but I have other projects on the table right now.
+NickInTimeFilms I have had it in for 9 months. I picked it up because I live in the desert and wanted more cooling space under my hood.
the cherokee should run at around 190° minimum to activate the computer's normal fuel map. if it stays rich, you'll have issues with pretty much everything. When I was experimenting with a lower thermostat, it was dumping small amounts of fuel into my oil sump...
Yeah, lower tstats are never the answer. I've been working on a home made renix scanner, hooked it up for a drive to confirm my thoughts. Gauge sender on head reads 175ºF but the the ecu sender in the block reads 211ºF so the engine is still getting up to temp, gauge just reads towards the colder side of the rad. I will still be looking into leveling out the gauge though, as it will be a rough winter otherwise.
what kind of serpentine belts are you using
Continental Elites with quiet technology. They use to be called goodyear gatorbacks.
So how is it holding up?
Lol, check my mishimoto rad video. This junk leaked after a year.
Do yourselves a favor and use Evans Waterless coolant.
It was a thought, but doesn't the engine tend to run a little hotter since its basically just 100% antifreeze?
why is it that some xjs get higher temps on highway and cool temps on city, mine seems to be backwards
Every Jeep is different, it's such a strange cooling system, haha. City cooling is achieved with good fans, if your fans are crap than usually you can't idle in bumper to bumper very long. Highway cooling is all about airflow and a good radiator, if the air bounces off the fins instead of through than you get less cooling.
+NickInTimeFilms they do are strange, I was thinking about adding some fans in front of the radiator and keep em on/off by a switch, Im only worried about them interrfering on hwy, and hoping they will help getting air into the engine bay through the radiator... so much hoping little known facts, enjoying the jeeplife so far
You can also look into venting the heat from under the hood .... As the hot air from the radiator is pushed into the engine bay , it just adds to the heat from the exhaust .... With no where to go it just heat soaks everything ...
When my 89 has no temp gauge so my way of tellin if its too hot is when the overflow is shooting everywhere. :/
Lol, yeah I've had that fun before...
NickInTimeFilms well ordered new radiator, thermostat, water pump, etc just replacing the whole cooling system so there should be no problems.
your welcome buddy
lol
how is this radiator holding up for you?
It's doing fantastic. If I could only pick one mod to fixing my cooling issue, this would be the one by far.
10-4 man i watched this video when you first put it out and just wanted to give it some time before i bought the same rad for my jeep
what was your running temp before and after the swap
mine always runs at 210
Before the swap I had bad overheating. Around town would be 210-220ºF but on the highway i couldn't go any faster then 55mph as it would easily go to 230ºF or more. after the swap it like the sit at around 190ºF no matter where i am. if i idle long enough then it gets up to 210 but when a fan comes on it shoots right back down.
NickInTimeFilms mine is the same except it only gets 220 and higher when im wheelin. have a new rad just gotta put it in.
I love this video. Keep it going #Jeep
how is that ebay rad holding up?
It's still doing great. I was able to conquer the hills of PA with my stroker this time around so it was damn well worth it to me.
Did you splice ur trans cooler lines
Yup, That's part of the trans cooler, whole video on that.
If it gives you problems you need to cut it. lol that is so true.
YUK.... I use distilled water when I flush, all the crap thats in city or well water helps to create rust and gunk.
Good tip
Depends on what kind of water you have in your area. If it's soft you're good. It won't rust anyway cause the coolant is what prevents the rusting.
Damn skippy. Non-distilled water is also electrically conductive and what causes electrolysis in the coolant system (current runs through the ground in the block, THROUGH the coolant). THat is where a lot of rust comes from. Toss all those expensive coolant additives and just use cheap distilled water and regular coolant to keep your system clean. if it's already dirty'fied you're going to have to get it cleaned out with chemicals. But once you're done.... distilled water and non-50/50 coolant.
It will stop rust but it won't stop magnesium/calcium scale build up.
Distilled water is made of water boiled to 212 Degrees no different.
being too cool isn't good. but it still looks safe, your temp
Yeah, I'll have to look into why it doesn't quite get up to temperature anymore. That's the thing with Renix era Temp senders, they give different readings than the newer ones and seem to fluctuate more. They read more on the coolant coming into the engine where newer ones read the temp coming out of the thermostat which is more constant. Maybe one day i'll have to do a video that shows how they read during different conditions.
$94 free delivery if you offer $84 on make an offer, you got it. by speed_motor1 Don't use the hose clamps that come with the radiator, they are junk. Buy your hose clamps from the local auto parts store. Also Jeeps use the stock 195* thermostat. Unless you do not care if the gas mileage goes down A Lot.
After a couple flushes my XJ is FINALLY running a little cooler. I am going to replace the fan clutch soon. This radiator might be in the future....after I replace some tires on this rig. Have you tried Thermo Cure to remove rust from the system? I am planning on doing that the next flush that I do. www.jegs.com/i/Evapo-Rust/399/TC001/10002/-1?gclid=CPDSyKri0s4CFQKNaQodGloIzA
Interesting, never heard of it.
if you replace your Fan Clutch be sure to get the ZJ Clutch as it is way bigger and cools the XJ so much better than the stock XJ clutch Its part # 215149 from advance auto
That's the plan, going to get the severe duty fan clutch. It's just my daily driver, never goes more than a few miles each direction, but once that first snowstorm hits, it's game on.
+My96XJ I'm doing the ZJ fan clutch swap on my 89 also. It's part 2737 at O'rielly and I've heard Hayden is the brand to go with or the Napa brand. But I've heard it sounds like you're driving a street version of a Cesna.
Street version of a Cesna, haha. Reminds me of a story Bill Cosby told on one of his old albums about Fat Albert's Car- it might be on youtube. Funny stuff.
this was someone on our forums solution for his stroker's overheating issues
comancheclub.com/topic/51005-using-cooling-system-restrictors-to-stabilize-temperatures/
I actually saw this on the go jeep website a while ago, I have thought about and may try it to see if it brings my temps up.
what exactly does running too cool do...? stupid question I know..
Nothing harmful. The engine is just usually less efficient and burns a little more fuel. not nearly as bad as overheating and replacing a piston, haha.
Jeeps (like the XJ ) are designed to run at 210* ... If the engine is running cooler , then the engine itself is less efficient .. It will have heating problems (inside the cab) , fuel economy will suffer , and if the transmission is still running through the radiator , it can also stop it from getting up to temp and working properly ... Allowing premature wear of the clutches , pump , and torque converter ... .............. Most people think putting a cooler thermostat helps the jeep but it actually has the opposet effect .......... All of the seals in the engine are also designed to heat up and seal their particular area , with an engine that is too cool , the seals can start to leak ...... (I am no expert , but this is the information I was told by my engine class teacher in collage ....
+Norman Murray I have a 180 thermostat in mine (and a new thermostat housing because when I replaced the stat the housing cracked and sprayed boiling coolant all over my back) but only because I needed a new one and they only had a 180 in stock. It allows more flow than my 195 stock stat so it does cool down better but obviously wasn't intended to fix my running hot issue
whats the number on that belt
It's a custom belt since I have a custom high mount alternator bracket. But it's an 890K6 belt
I know this doesn't relate to your video but what is your average mpg? City and highway.
12 City / 14+ Highway : www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/cherokee/1989/nickintimefilms/156185
Egad man that's terrible. Good to know I'll be keeping the stock 4.blow 89 as is. Well maybe do some follow up from the rebuild (Damned oReilly's special oil pump.) I'll keep my 13-15 city 18-25 hwy. (I actually did somehow manage ~25 mpg on a trip up I5 to the Oregon dunes behind my Dad who was towing. Might've been cheating but hey that's what it got!) Normally average about 20 hwy taking it easy.
Yeah, lifted stroker on 35s and tons of gear is thirsty
+NickInTimeFilms Yeah I checked out your link to the mpg site. Pretty good considering all that but no bueno for everyday street commuting. And the 4.0 has good enough power for what I've tried so far. But you probably has all da powa!
dude that alternator is on it last legs lol
What makes you say that? It's still running mighty strong.
when ours went down that low it just died one day lol
Gotta be more specific man! What went low?
your jeep there is at 12ish volts not 14 ours went to 12 and just died that week, but that being said it could be that mount you made, sick jeep thw
That gauge always reads low but it will read 12 when off becuase the battery can only hold 12.6 volts. When the engine is on it jumps up to 14 volts just fine.
Sounds like water pump problem
I bought that same rad... 2 months later fuckin leak!
That sucks, you order from the same seller? Where'd it leak from anyway?
NickInTimeFilms loved the look... Seemed welded to the hilt. Leaked out the top flat weld🙃. Your my hero love your vids and the way you get shit done. Keep on keepin on brother
Fuck that plug just find a dirt lot and pull the bottom hose off.
Most people don't realize, antifreeze turns acidic over time! Change your antifreeze yearly !
Yeah........No.
watch what not to do kids
Pretty much. Shit blew out little over a year later. Mishimoto it is.
Doing donuts with LOCKERS ON ,DUH DUDE REALLY ?????????
The lockers have nothing to do with engine heat, they just help keep both tires actually spinning. DUH.
@@NickInTimeFilms the lockers should not be engaged while doing DONUTS , where in my post do you see me refer to the ENGINE OVERHEATING ,LEARN TO READ DUH ,
This is a video about upgrading the radiator and you had little explanation for your point. The point of a donut is to lose traction and slide the vehicle. With an open carrier there is a good chance only 1 wheel will spin and you won't have the full power to push you. With an lsd or selectable locker you can get the full power and force the wheels to slide. If it's selectable you will obviously lock them before you start, but if your axle is built well and you're not doing it stupidly it makes it much easier