Your series of videos explaining this process has been a pleasure to watch. I am glad that your repair job worked out. I am diving into my k46 with the hope that it turns out as well as yours. Thank you a million times over for this fantastic series of videos.
That has to be one of the best tutorials I have ever watched. The attention to detail was amazing. The time and talent used in this video should win an award.
One of the best set of instructional videos I have ever watched. Amazingly clear camera and language. I own this same tractor used from a guy who did no maintenance but it drives fine. i will definitely be changing the oil and filter ASAP. Thanks for removing any mysteries.
Thank you for watching and commenting Thomas. I work hard on the clarity and it makes it worthwhile when good folks like you recognize it. Let me know if you have any follow up questions. Dean
Hello, Dean. I just wanted to let you know that I nominated you for an Oscar for Best Instructional Video on UA-cam. The quality, lighting, audio and close-ups in your videos are unsurpassed. I just finished a K46V transaxle rebuild for my 2002 John Deere Sabre that has 1320 hours on it. The first time I watched the videos, I thought this project was too complex for me (I’m a veterinarian but not a great mechanic). But after watching them multiple times, you gave me the confidence to proceed. I ordered replacement parts rather than sending them for reconditioning. Thanks again for your efforts and keep up the good work. Don D
Don, you flatter me but thanks so much. I’m a retired IT guy by trade and not much of a shade tree mechanic. Just got my dads blood in me and he was an excellent jack of all trades on our farm. Thanks again for viewing and the kind words. Dean
The world needs more people like you... Thank you so much for not using techno background music and putting so much time and effort into this video. I plan to use Jim for my K57A rebuild on my simplicity. Mine doesn't have any trouble going up hills yet, but I do notice that horrible noise yours made only right when I apply abrupt forward or reverse for a split second, then it's quiet.
Thanks for the kind comments John and for viewing. Certainly if your mower has begun to make the grinding noise, I would at minimum consider changing the oil. If it has been much longer than 200 hours or more since the oil was changed or if the oil has never been changed, I would consider changing the oil and filter. If you decide to use Jim as a resource, I believe you will be very satisfied. Good luck in your future projects, and let me know please if you have any questions around this repair. I’d love to hear a follow up to your story if you would’t mind posting the results sometime.
@@PilotViewProductions Absolutely! I will update this as soon as I get things done. I'm going to start with a fluid change this week. the mower only has 150 hours on it and it's a 2009 that was garage kept. I honestly love it! I also toyed with the idea of buying a K57R which is pretty much the same as the K57A but the axles are slightly shorter (Husk version). The price is also only 330$ for a whole brand new unit from Surplus Center. Only thing is the unit has a speed sensor on it (mine doesn't) and I wonder if that will cause any issues leaving it unplugged. Nevertheless, I'll update on how things go either way!
well it's my turn! tractor isn't moving up hill and it's making horrible noises now. How has yours been treating you? Jim also offers a set of differential brass pieces that apparently cause the issue so I'll grab those as well from him @@PilotViewProductions
Hello from Australia, I just finished rebuilding a k46 and your video is by far the best available. Others aren't complete and others skip over parts, thanks heaps for making making this. :)
Scott, I don't know brother. My views this month have increased 27% but I guess I just haven't made my way onto the so-called UA-cam algorithm. I've been doing this kind of thing for over 2 years now. Anyways, thanks for the compliment, it means a lot to me....and thanks for viewing. I hope I can talk you into subscribing as I have more videos coming in the near future and I hope some will help you with your projects. Dean
Watched all three videos. Your thoroughness, cleaning, and details are 5 stars. Many poorly made videos with subpar information on UA-cam which is frustrating for people.
I hope you make money through UA-cam because you definitely deserve to. One of the best instructional videos I have ever watched! Just ordered my new bearing you listed. This video has made this so much easier for me. Can't thank you enough!!
Thanks for the kind words DIY-J-G. Yes my videos are monetized but I enjoy shooting the clearest, best lit, 4K videos I can present so good folks like yourself can do their own repairs. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions keep up the amazing work. Guys like you can make a huge impact in other people's lives. I have the same model tractor as you that I'm trying to repair to keep it running. Your video will save me hundreds and a whole lot of time!
What an excellent 3-part video with your very detailed how-to instructions!!!! Thank you for producing this. I have the same John Deere L130. When I am driving it around the yard for about 30 minutes, it also struggles to go uphill. After watching this video, I feel confident I can repair it.
Now THIS folks, is how you do an instructional video! Thanks so much for this very clear and concise video of the K46 transmission rebuild. Your attention to detail should be noted by professional shops, I would say get a couple of short lengths of Aluminium or Copper angle to make soft jaws for your vice. I'm a groundsman at a Public School here in Australia and our Husqvarna mower's transmission has failed. Locked in gear and will not move forward or reverse. Disengage does not work as well. The machine is in tidy condition (500hrs) not as tidy as yours though😉 and it is a second mower, we have a new Ferris 600 zero turn but we would prefer to keep that for the not so gnarly areas around the school. Nobody wants our Husky and say it is too expensive to repair, so I put it to my boss that I have a crack at it and she gave me the go ahead. I realise if I open it up it could be a basket case but worth having a look, as it may need a few parts and some TLC before reassembly. The 22hp Briggs is still strong as an ox. Your video has given me more confidence to do so. Cheers!👍
I am honored by your kudos. The 'very' reason I began doing these videos was because everything I watched, I struggled with. I couldn't see because of the light, I couldn't understand because of the garbled language and even if I 'could' see, the video was too shaky. It warms my heart to hear of your willingness to take apart the Husky engine, and I trust things won't be 'as' bad once you get into it. My philosophy is: if it's already broken, there's nothing I can do to make it worse. Let me know if you think I can help mate. Cheers. Dean....BTW...love your moniker.
@@PilotViewProductions Thanks Dean, yes me dismantling the transmission can't make it any worse......I think!😁 The other guy I job share with was at the "It's a garden ornament" stage, but I hate waste and we can't afford to have two mowers, so if I can bring it back from the dead, so be it. Appreciate your offer of help mate, really do.👍
@@PilotViewProductions Hi Dean, pulled trans out of mower today , cleaned up outside case, drained the oil and opened her up. Great news (I think?) the bearing beside the brake disc on the motor shaft had collapsed, locking transmission up. The rest of the transmission looks good for wear etc and was not leaking oil. I will try and match bearing locally, reassemble, fill with oil and cross my fingers. I know I should order bearing, axle seals etc and do full rebuild but I want to keep the cost down, including my hours at work and get it going as cheap as possible. I am aware cutting corners now, may mean doing the job twice or worse. So, some thinking and pricing to be done.🤔
@@PilotViewProductions Thanks to your great video, the transmission is back together, bench tested and now back in the machine and running well. The true test of time will come after my offsider ....ah....how shall I say this? puts it through its paces!😉
I want to say there is no better video than this series. I believed the lie from J.D. that this tranny can't be serviced. I was with my F.I.L. when he bought the 155c from J.D. on 6-6-06, now he's gone and I inherited his farm and mower. So after 17 yrs. and 705 hrs. I pulled the tranny & pulled the cover. Filter was a screen & clean so just cleaned magnets, resealed and put 2qts.+ of Hy-Gard J20c which is called for on my J.D., Z920A Zero Turn withTuff-Torq hydro's. Power washed all of mower and installed new steering parts. Tranny and mower now runs as it did when new. Gear teeth showed some pitting but can't do anything about it so keep running and not abuse it. Here's some tips: Remove key from wheels to make it easy to move tranny around. Blow tranny and mower off first, then power wash after removing tranny to keep dirt out. Remove wheels and place axles on jack stands 16" high. Remove the drain plug with tranny level to see true level of oil & check magnet. Put plug back in loose and block tranny upside down. Once secure pop plug back out and drain into a clean 3qt. tub so you can inspect and measure oil. Using a 7/16 nut driver and 3" of cheap hose with 2 hose clamps allows you to spin input shaft to prime hydro and get correct oil level, it turns clockwise. Spend $5 for a new drain plug from J.D. so you don't have to pull it back out to replace a seeping plug like I had to. Turns out the 155c was only made 1 year and had all the frills. That K46 was designed to mow lawns and that's about it but holds up very well if not abused. Keep in mind that tranny only needs to hold up as long as engine and deck holds up in normal conditions. That K46 beats the heck out of the old gear/clutch drive mowers. Excellent mowers, tranny and a big thanks to Pilot View Productions. 721 hrs. now and love my mower.
I thank you for your dedication to making these quality videos. I place a string magnet from an old hard-drive near the snap-rings while removing or installing them. Minimizes lost springs.
Can’t imagine anyone ever making a better instructional video. Thank you. I have a Tuff Torq TL-200 in my JD S120. So I contacted Tuff Torq to asked them about pulling my spike aerator and my lawn/leaf sweeper in the fall, or would a K46 trans be a better option. They replied very promptly (to their credit) and stated that they would not recommend pulling anything with the TL-200 or the K46 model trans, and that those models are for mowing lawns only. They suggested that the K58 at the bear minimum, or a K66 trans would be a better option. Imagine how many people with a simple lawn/leaf sweeper or spike aerator are pulling them with their JD factory TL-200 or K46 trans. Thank you again.
Imagine indeed. Wouldn’t you think it would outline that in the owners manual? Thanks for viewing ‘Truth’. Hope other of my videos help as well. Thanks for the compliment. Dean
Thousands of K46's are out there and have been pulling carts (reasonably loaded), aerators, sweepers, and mowing, even pushing a little snow on occasion, for over two decades now. While the K46 is not designed for "ground-engaging" implements, a small spike aerator won't pose much of a challenge. Not all K46's were created equal either. The TL-200 replaced the K46 in many of the lower S100 series models and while it's not as robust as the K46, I still wouldn't hesitate to hook it to a small cart or similar, within the guidelines outlined in the JD Operator's Manuals of course.
Incredible, succinct videos!!!! Can't thank you enough. Lots of work, even with help from Canada. These are some of the best, complete and helpful guiding videos I've seen.
You'd be just the person to explain/demonstrate how the governor on a Briggs & Stratton works, covering such things as adjusting it along with throttle adjustment, surging, etc. Videos are out there but only cover basics, not in-depth understanding.
@@robertruggles5584 If you subscribe, you'll see 2 videos on my channel having to do with B&S carbs. One was a rebuild on my Sears edger carburetor and the other was a total replacement of the carb on that same edger and some bonus video near the end on how the governor and throttle adjustment works. I did not cover surging in that video, but that could be: 1: clogged air filter, 2: clogged fuel filter, 3: loose carburetor bolts, 4: clogged carb needle valves or screens and 5: clogged exhaust (muffler) screen. Try running some Seafoam through you gas mixture before doing anything drastic. *Seafoam is not a sponsor
In 1973, I worked at a car custom place that did factory sun roofs on high-end cars. It was called Glishner Coach Works in Norwalk CT, and we were re 1 of 3 companies in the USA that bullet proofing. We also made formal limos from regular limos. Saying that, I worked on the supposedly the only Mustang 4+4. They wanted to know if we could put a sunroof in the car. Unfortunately, we could not. It was a great place to work, but I could not afford to work there due to the 73 gas war. I could not afford to drive 20 miles one way to work since I was working for $1.80 an hour and could not get gas. Since then, I still work on cars as I always keep it as a hobby and still own my 55 Nomad I build that I found in 1974 I remember back in the 60s, the Metro trucks were built out of Bridgeport CT. Great video about very rare cars.
so i watched all 3 vids , and after seeing your filter i knew id have to change mine too...its a 2004 jd l130,,,,,,232 hrs.... the vids made it possible for me to do this myself.got it all back together and it pulls good so far , new filter and i went back with full synthetic 15/50 oil. no groaning....yet , so now ill address my deck and then try it out cutting,...great vids man
This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. Very precise and complete. Your character and professionalism really shows. I have a Scotts L2548 which is very similar to the JD L130. Thank you for creating this video. I look forward to watching your existing videos and new content. Thanks again.
Please tell me you are an engineer. I have never been so thoroughly discouraged in such an efficient manner 🤣 In all seriousness, just like all the other comments say, this is the best DIY video I have ever seen. All these corporations should be banging your door down for your services. At the very least, you should do videos for assembling IKEA furniture. Thank you, sir.
Lol. Appreciate the compliments. This series took awhile, no lie. I am a retired I.T. person by trade who just so happened to be discouraged by all the dark, shaky videos I found on this subject where people tried to shoot with their cell phones and no tripods. I just wanted to prove a better way was possible. Thanks again. Dean
Excellent video series. We are purchasing a new John Deere and I plan on changing the oil out with the reccomneded transmission oil from Tuff Torq as soon as we get it. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
This is a very complete and thorough video. Excellent! You aught to have way more viewers especially for the quality of your videos. My advice for the key words add as many at possible. Thanks so much!
Wow, you make a very complex and detail oriented project seem straight forward. Hope I never have to do this with mine but feel confident I'm able to after watching this. Another thing that no one comments about is perfect lighting; so many DIY videos are in the pitch black basement and can never see what's being done; either that or grainy video. Very professional job!
Thank you Mapex311 for watching and the kind comments. You touched on the precise reason I started doing these videoed projects. I was tired of trying to interpret shaky dark videos. I pride myself on the daylight box lights and ‘tripod mounted’ videos with a camera other than the one on my phone. Thanks again, hope you’ll subscribe for more.
I have a 2015 D160 with 170hrs. It struggles to get up hills, especially when hot. It's been getting worse over the last couple years. My back yard has a steep hill. After finding out how common this is and the cause, I removed the K46 and took the cover off. Everything looked ok - no big damage, probably just small wear. The magnets (four in mine) had a good amount of fine shavings. I cleaned everything up and resealed the case. The old oil looked very bad. I put fresh 5W40 synthetic in it, and it climbs hills so much better now. Hopefully I caught it before too much damage was done. I don't do any snow blowing/pushing or tow much of anything, just a lawn aerator once a year. Just wanted to let people know if they catch it soon enough an oil change might get you a few more years before a rebuild is necessary.
Great video. Unless I am mistaken, I believe that you over torqued your bolt on the lower case cover. They are M8 bolts that require a 12 mm socket (which you used). You tighten them to 35 ft. lbs. , however I believe that they should only be tightened to about 17 ft. lbs. The text in you video even says that M8 is to be tightened to 16-18 ft. lbs. I hope nobody stripped their threads.
You are AMAZING. This is an example of everything done right, to produce a whole greater than the sum of the parts. Most excellent, THANK YOU !! [now I need to find out what transmission I have on my new Deere S120 - supposedly a Tuff Torq TL200, about which I can find almost no information.]
Wow thanks H.H. both for viewing and for the kind comments. I sure wish I had information to assist you with your transmission. Personally I’ve never found much assistance by visiting the TuffTorx website.
Dean, Your videos are excellent, sound, picture clarity, sound, lighting, and the instructions/explanations are all top of the top. Best I have ever watched. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have a question or need your guidance, see below statement I sent to Jim in Canada.' I have placed all parts back into transmission. I used the UA-cam video from Pilot View Productions who has a 19 year old John Deere, after he used your rebuild services... So he gives a really good video and teaches a lot.. However, he says in final steps after placing the thrust block in place and torquing it down to 35 lbs. that you should be able to turn the motor with your fingers...well, I can not turn my motor, what should I do? I have removed it three times and I am sure it is all the way down and locked in place, but it does not turn with my fingers.. I do not want to put it all together seal it up, fill it with oil and reinstall it and then find out it does not work.. I will be so discouraged... As you well know installing and uninstalling this transmission is a job. What do you recommend? Thank you, Millard Gillen
Mr. Gillen. First of: thank you for viewing and for the kind comments. Second: you are justified in your concern. I would not seal it up yet until we talk: can you see my email address associated with my channel? If so, please email me a short reply because my response to you will be so lengthy, I don't wish to take up space here. If you cannot see my address, let me know here. Bottom line: I have suggestions for you as mine would not turn initially.
@@PilotViewProductions Mr Dean, I am sorry, I am not sure of your email address. Please send it to me. I do need your guidance, I was pretty sure something was not correct, which is why I reached out to you. Thank you for your response. Millard Gillen
Amazing job!! So detailed and so perfectly clear. Wonder what his profession was. He took this task as a personal challenge (for what I see he didn’t need to fix the old tractor but he’s a man of determination and what it to prove it to himself thy when he puts his mind to it, there’s no backing down) and he excelled once again. Hats off to him.
Thank you very much Idelgado933 for viewing my videos and for the kind comments. I am currently retired, but I was an IT professional for 43 years. I began doing self-help videos because other videos I was watching were dark and shaky using hand-held phones to shoot their videos. I knew good folks like yourself would appreciate good steady well-lit videos that actually shows you step-by-step how to perform a repair, even if you're not particularly handy with tools. I hope I can talk you into subscribing and best of luck in all your projects. Dean
Watched the first 2 videos on this transaxle....If I recall the Tuff Torq manufacturer actually says to change the fluid/filter at 50 hours of use. I did the one in my Cub-Cadet XT1 42" around the 75 hour mark because I didn't know about the service interval at the time, but I'm at 114 hours and so far no issues....relatively short operating time on the machine, I might do another fluid change on it before the end of the season. People are told these transaxles aren't serviceable so they never change the fluid and just run them till they die and go buy another lawn tractor LOL.
@@PilotViewProductions Watched #3 as well. I think at that point if I had to tear the thing apart I'd just replace the machine. Given what I have now, I wouldn't bother replacing my lawn tractor when it dies, its replacement is already on my property and will outlive the lawn tractor by a long shot. Bought a sub-compact tractor last year with a 60" mid mount mower...when my lawn tractor dies I won't be too upset to have to mow my yard with my tractor LOL. The cost of that service to have all that stuff machined isn't too bad, but the time to tear everything apart and wait to get the parts back, put it back together to find out it don't work would not go too well with me. I think I'll do another oil/filter change on mine towards the end of the season before I put my snow blower on for the winter. I only mow about 3/4 of an acre, and its pretty flat...I do pull my garden trailer around with it occasionally as well, so I'll try and keep ahead on the oil/filter services on the transaxle and see how long it lasts that way.
Fantastic educational video's thank you for putting so much time and effort into our education. I have to give you 11 out of 10 for the impeccably clean mower :) Once again great work and many thanks for putting this task within the reach of most if not all of us.
1:58 Some manufacturere install the transmission the other way around in the mower. For example the Toro DH220 has the short axle on the right. Presumably that's why the thrust block can be installed backwards.
Hello! 1st, my compliments for what is hands down the most thorough how-to I have seen on UA-cam. I 100% understand the amount of effort that goes into this type of documentation and I appreciate you taking the time to do so. I am curious, at 5:18 you make an effort to keep all of the pistons in their respective bores. If they had all spilled out, do you think Jim would have had problems with the rebuild? Thanks again for your time. - Casey
Thanks for the kind comments Casey and the understanding of the efforts. I had about 4 hours of video from 3 camera angles to pare down to the least common denominator of sorts. Now to your answer: no, I don’t think it would have made a difference which piston was where, related to the repair. That said, if I were going to just turn around and reassemble without repair, I’d probably feel better placing those pistons back in order. Thanks for watching. Dean
By far the best K46 Video. All 3. very good detail on orientation of parts. Interested in how many hours on the Transaxle not years. I replaced the oil at 212 hrs when it was slowing down and it only lasted 70 more hrs and died at 282. I chose a new unit for $771. Parts for a rebuild were about $500. I thought for $271 more I would avoid rolling the dice. I would have chose the option you offered if I had known. My K46BR is on a JD X300. The K46BR is simply too undersized for the 616 lb X300 with a 48 deck plus my 230 lbs. I will try that next time it fails. And it will.
Thank you Frankie Bob for the kind words and most of all, the recognition of the work that went into the orientation of parts, and the filming of such. Ironically, I have an 300 series JD as well, an X320. FYI: My X320 has a K58a tranny and it seems to be plenty stout, but I followed my own advice and changed the tranny oil recently as it was beginning to fail going up and down hills and just the oil change did the trick there. As far as the service hours on the L130, I mentioned it in the opening, but it was around 780 before it failed completely. I'm glad I used Jim out of Canada and the tractor continues to give good service since the video. Just because I'm a curious soul however and for my viewer's benefit; I think if it ever fails again, I'm going to take a different route to see if it makes a difference as to longevity...that of replacing the motor and pump and center section with new components like these: www.ebay.com/itm/303122732991?epid=25031083412&hash=item469385d7bf:g:RH8AAOSws-1crfkz. Having had it apart, I feel little else would need replacement save for the gears and they are relatively cheap. Best of luck with your new tranny (hope it never fails again) and thanks again for writing. Dean from Pilot Mountain, NC
How many hours will these k46 last. I bought a scott 2548 with 680 hours on it for are trail club. Been fixing up mower over the summer but using it also like 28 hours of use so has 708 hours now. It actually was working very good going up hill on trails before taking apart. First owner mowed a very flat area. I watched your great vid and decided to do oil filter change. Oil and filter were very dirty but not much metal on magnet and gears looked great inside. Hopefully I caught it in time and will work a couple more years for are club which will work it hard with hills and rough terrain. Again thanks for great vid.
@@chrispederson4157 Thanks for viewing and the kind comments. I would be remiss if I pretended that I could predict the number of hours your transmission will last. If, for example, you were to replace the motors and worn gears every time it was necessary, it could last indefinitely. While these transmissions are not as tough as their larger sized cousins, we are still putting dozens of hours per season on ours and have surpassed 1000 hours. I feel like it is just as strong as it ever was. If it were to fail again, I might try the option where I replace the motors rather than trash the mower.
@@PilotViewProductions Ya I actually wish while I had it apart I sent parts to guy in Canada to fix since I live in canada. Of course I did not watch your 3 vid till after I put back together. Oh well we will see how long it last. Thanks for quick reply.
@@chrispederson4157 Since 4 or 5 years ago, to replace these transmissions was over $800 (who knows how much today), to me, it would still be worth replacing most or all of the worn internal parts rather than buying a new transmission. Let's face it, the motor, deck and transmission are the life blood of any mower. My opinion is: if you can reasonably repair any of these 3 components, it's worth it, versus buying a new mower. That's just my 2 cents worth however.
Thanks for viewing and commenting Bryan. Hope I can count on your subscription so I can continue to bring videos that I hope will help you in the future. Dean
springs get shorter over time like clutch springs do they do shim the springs in some rebuilds the swash plate can wear and the linkages also making it need more travel to get full drive a machine on flat glass with 500 grit sandpaper on the pump body and cylinder housings will help make sure the brake is adjusted perect to or it will hold the relief pin on the motor and make sure the rear push rod is all the way in simple mistake that one ive made before after a rebuild thought it was still bad but then i noticed the rod was out haha
I do this everything what you show in this movie. but i work in my tracktor half hour and next dont have power drive and everything is hot . What is problem? Change the motor inside the box or what? Sorry to my English
If you watched all 3 of these videos, you'll see that when I just changed the oil and filter, it didn't fix mine either. In the 3rd video, I provided a link to send your motors to this guy in Canada who will rebuild them for a bit over $100.00. A great bargain. Or, you can buy new ones for $340.00. Either way, I suspect your motors are shot, like mine were.
I have JD L120. Is it necessary to remove the axles and the fan shaft? I don't recall you mentioning or explaining why you removed them? Otherwise, excellent video especially reassembling. I'd be lost putting it back together. I just got around to opening up the K46 and draining the oil. I am a bit concerned by the large amount of metal filings on the magnet. It only has 238 hours. But did frequently pull heavy loads with this tractor (14' drift boat uphill, lawn cart with dirt, uproot shrubs off the ground, aerator...). Hopefully it is salvageable.
@@ggtaruc2578 No, not necessarily but as you could see, my fan shaft bearing was shot, so necessary for me. As for the axle seals, some folks recommend changing every few hundred hours or when you have the rear end dropped down.
Thank you. I noticed my differential gears are damaged hence the metal filings on the magnet. The pumps seem ok. Do you know if the pumps have to be sent in? It appears the differential gears can be purchased.
@@ggtaruc2578 If you’re sending the parts to my guy Jim in Canada, yes. Send the pumps cause he will refinish the pump faces for you even if they appear okay.
What keeps that little pin in place? The oil once it's in? I don't understand that. It can literary just slide right out the back and fall right? Also, it doesn't line up with the motor anywhere right?
On what I'll call the 'front' side, the motor washer is what the pin presses against to break the seal between the motor and the center block housing and lets you free-wheel. You'll see me remove the washer beginning at 3:55. On the rear, the flat end of the post that sticks through the case shown sticking up at my right pinky finger at 28:47 is what holds it in there. If the arm is turned to the flat spot the pin retracts and allows for regular driving. To free-wheel: pulling the free-wheel rod, it turns the post away from the flat to a round spot, thereby pressing inward on the pin and breaking the seal. Thanks for watching. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions I think I understand now. There is a post that sticks up next the back side open hole that keeps it in place. I hope it's where it needs to be, about to place my cover back on.
Actually what position should that black lever be in currently to hold it? Mine looks like its in a mid position with 2 other notches on either side. I don't want to move it right now haha.
@@G5questman Pushing the black lever toward what would be the back of the tranny is in free wheel mode. Pushing the lever towards the front would lock the wheels.
@@PilotViewProductions thanks for all the informative responses. I will say that I tightened the bolts to 35 ft lbs as well for the cover and snapped one of the long ones in the middle and started to strip one on the outside I believe. Took the cover back off and had to drill it out and get it with an easy out. Replaced with another bolt. Took a lot longer because I had to remove almost all the parts and try to keep the housing as clean as possible still. I recommend tightening until snug and then a quarter turn once the sealant sits an hour. I noticed the instructions Jim sent back said 90 lb/in on the paper. Just FYI for others.
There is another good You-Tuber that did work on the transmission in one of his videos. I think it is the same problem. His channel is BriansMobile1. Good to know information. Again, thank you for the series.
Your video is excellent. I would qualify as one not handy with mechanics but after watching your video I think I might give it a try. Can you list what extra parts you purchased that were not included in the rebuild? Also are there different size pump shaft bearings and how do you know which one to buy? Thank you for all of your effort.
Hello Dean of O. Catchy name. Thanks for viewing and I hope I can talk you into subscribing. Extra parts ordered were at Jim’s suggestion save for the shaft bearing which I ordered online. If it is a Tuff Torq tranny, I suspect the inner and outside diameters are the same for all models but certainly if you go the route I went and contact Jim, he would be able to advise. Aside from the axle shaft seals and the main drive shaft seal, the only other extra part I ordered out of necessity was the main shaft bearing. Of course, you can see from the video that the oil, filter, and gasket sealant were purchased separately. Thanks again for viewing. PS: I think you saw in the video how I measured the dimensions of the shaft bearing. I’d do the same for yours but I suspect it is the same size as mine. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Thank you for your swift reply. And I did subscribe. I would be an idiot not too! One more question. If you have a hilly yard wouldn't this be more than likely to happen again and should I look for something with a better transmission? Thank you.
@@deanofo9343 Eventually, yes it probably will happen again. But given that my tranny was 20 years old before I performed this work, I don’t feel badly at the cost of these parts to perform the repair.s if it takes another 20 years to fail. Plus it really depends on the size of the loads you are pulling up and down those hills. Cheers. Dean
Excellent video. I'm curious, what ended up being the actual problem with the transmission? I mean, what did Jim do to your parts to make them work properly again?
His rebuild includes refinishing the pistons on the motors and replacing as necessary. He checks the tolerances on all parts and replaces accordingly. Remember in the video how loose the one piston was that I wiggled during disassembly? No fluid should be able to escape around those pistons for one thing. Thanks for watching. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions That makes sense. I guess if no gears are broken or filters clogged there's really nothing else other than the charge pump and hydrostatic motor. Thank you for getting back to me. This was the best K46 video I've ever watched.
My mower is doing the exact thing. I changed the oil with 5:50. Didn’t work. I’m not to sure doing it myself so I would have to pay a buddy if he was willing to do the job. By the time I pay for parts and some labor costs it might be cheaper to order a new one for 700.00-800.00 bucks. And it would be shipped to me and I can install it in less than a half hour. What’s your opinion sir? By the way your video is the best how to video I’ve ever seen. P. S. I have 900 hours on my original one , I guess I was very lucky.
Paul first of: thanks for viewing and for the compliment. Secondly: it just depends on your comfort level. I actually enjoy doing this kind of work albeit I had never tackled anything this complex. You’ve got so many how to videos on how this works, for me, the least worry would be getting it done. I think you should save some $$$ and dive in and watch this video and do it yourself. If you do t feel good about having the parts rebuilt, I’d definitely just order the new pumps and still do it myself but that’s just me Paul. But you’re correct: if you’re going to pay someone to do this and buy the parts, why not just buy a new tranny? Much success either way you go and thanks again for viewing.
Thanks for asking. Still going strong, I'm happy to say. I don't pull heavy garden trailers etc., however; I do have a double grass bagger on the rear and that creates some weight in addition to me. Good luck with your re-assembly. Reach out with any questions. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Per my comment above, I used to pull heavy loads with my L120. My home has a walkout basement so both sides of my yard go uphill to my driveway. If I get this fixed, I will continue using the pull-behind aerator and lawn cart but no more boat or uprooting shrubs.
Those are large washers in my case and I didn’t send mine to him nor ask him to machine them down. I suspect he definitely works on the piston faces or replace them as necessary depending on the ‘play’ but use the link or look him up and email him for further inquiries about the machining. If the washers are grooved badly you might just wanna replace. Might be cheaper. Dean
1: The addition of extra features is outside the scope of this series 2: I am more than aware of the drain plug kit but if you watched the first video, you’ll note I can’t get to the fill plug under the fan w/o dropping the axle. So, if I can’t refill the transaxle w/o removing it from the tractor what’s the use of installing drain plugs? 3: the addition of the magnet upgrade could have been performed except I wanted to stay true to the title. This is not an upgrade video. Besides most people rarely get 19 years out of a mower. This one has performed flawlessly using the original magnet configuration. 4: Do you have a video where you install the features you mentioned? If yes, please post the link as I’d like to watch it.
@@PilotViewProductions Well my rebuild was a success! And a very big part of that was due to your video, I can't thank you enough for the QUALITY video and crystal clear explanations. Thanks again!!!
Is the pump block supposed to fit nice and snug sliding onto shaft splines? I took mine apart and noticed it has play on the shaft. It stop going forward and backward. Ive had it apart 3 times and nothing. I polished the surfaces only and no metal was found anywhere. I just noticed the play with pump block today after taking apart again. Im wondering if inner pump block worn, and not shaft splines.
I just pulled my transaxle. It was making same noise, now no forward or reverse. When i turn the pulley, neither tire turns. Im wondering i actually have a gear damaged. There was no shavings on outside magnet. I have not opened yet,...nooooo
Well, before you panic: it could be that perhaps some of the oil actually boiled or spilled over the breather cap and the oil level is soooo low, the wheels won't turn. It could be that the oil viscosity has totally broken down and it won't hold a seal enough for the pump to turn the gears. You really won't know til you pull the cover however. Taking it up a notch, you may have stripped one of the drive gears inside...again, not a deal breaker as a full set of gears is not that expensive. One would think if it were a gear(s), you would have seen more metal shavings on the outside magnet however. It may also be that the freewheel engage lever has become disconnected. I prefer to remain optimistic for you until you say otherwise. Lastly; when I was purging the air in my video, initially I panicked because the wheels wouldn't turn. That is, until I realized I need to either push or pull back on the lever that the forward/reverse pedal connects to. Dean
Your series of videos explaining this process has been a pleasure to watch. I am glad that your repair job worked out. I am diving into my k46 with the hope that it turns out as well as yours. Thank you a million times over for this fantastic series of videos.
Thank you for watching and the kind comments
That has to be one of the best tutorials I have ever watched. The attention to detail was amazing. The time and talent used in this video should win an award.
Thank you for viewing and for the stellar comments. It is much appreciated.
One of the best set of instructional videos I have ever watched. Amazingly clear camera and language. I own this same tractor used from a guy who did no maintenance but it drives fine. i will definitely be changing the oil and filter ASAP. Thanks for removing any mysteries.
Thank you for watching and commenting Thomas. I work hard on the clarity and it makes it worthwhile when good folks like you recognize it. Let me know if you have any follow up questions. Dean
I totally agree. This is the best K46 video that I have seen yet. Best camera closeups and detail of all the parts and how they fit together.
@@hammer773 Thank you for viewing
@pilotviewproductions I just rebuilt a tuff torq transaxle And all the experts told me to use 1540 oil instead of hydraulic fluid is that not correct?
And I agree the best instructional video I’ve seen yet
Hello, Dean. I just wanted to let you know that I nominated you for an Oscar for Best Instructional Video on UA-cam. The quality, lighting, audio and close-ups in your videos are unsurpassed. I just finished a K46V transaxle rebuild for my 2002 John Deere Sabre that has 1320 hours on it. The first time I watched the videos, I thought this project was too complex for me (I’m a veterinarian but not a great mechanic). But after watching them multiple times, you gave me the confidence to proceed. I ordered replacement parts rather than sending them for reconditioning. Thanks again for your efforts and keep up the good work. Don D
Don, you flatter me but thanks so much. I’m a retired IT guy by trade and not much of a shade tree mechanic. Just got my dads blood in me and he was an excellent jack of all trades on our farm. Thanks again for viewing and the kind words. Dean
The world needs more people like you... Thank you so much for not using techno background music and putting so much time and effort into this video. I plan to use Jim for my K57A rebuild on my simplicity. Mine doesn't have any trouble going up hills yet, but I do notice that horrible noise yours made only right when I apply abrupt forward or reverse for a split second, then it's quiet.
Thanks for the kind comments John and for viewing. Certainly if your mower has begun to make the grinding noise, I would at minimum consider changing the oil. If it has been much longer than 200 hours or more since the oil was changed or if the oil has never been changed, I would consider changing the oil and filter. If you decide to use Jim as a resource, I believe you will be very satisfied. Good luck in your future projects, and let me know please if you have any questions around this repair. I’d love to hear a follow up to your story if you would’t mind posting the results sometime.
@@PilotViewProductions Absolutely! I will update this as soon as I get things done. I'm going to start with a fluid change this week. the mower only has 150 hours on it and it's a 2009 that was garage kept. I honestly love it! I also toyed with the idea of buying a K57R which is pretty much the same as the K57A but the axles are slightly shorter (Husk version). The price is also only 330$ for a whole brand new unit from Surplus Center. Only thing is the unit has a speed sensor on it (mine doesn't) and I wonder if that will cause any issues leaving it unplugged. Nevertheless, I'll update on how things go either way!
well it's my turn! tractor isn't moving up hill and it's making horrible noises now. How has yours been treating you? Jim also offers a set of differential brass pieces that apparently cause the issue so I'll grab those as well from him @@PilotViewProductions
Best step by step I’ve seen on UA-cam. Very well done Sir!
@@mitchpeddicord3715 Thanks for watching
Hello from Australia, I just finished rebuilding a k46 and your video is by far the best available. Others aren't complete and others skip over parts, thanks heaps for making making this. :)
Cheers from the states. Thanks for watching and for the kind words. It means a lot. I'm glad the videos helped. Dean
Why aren't more people watching your instructional videos? Very professional- best tutorial I've seen!
Scott, I don't know brother. My views this month have increased 27% but I guess I just haven't made my way onto the so-called UA-cam algorithm. I've been doing this kind of thing for over 2 years now. Anyways, thanks for the compliment, it means a lot to me....and thanks for viewing. I hope I can talk you into subscribing as I have more videos coming in the near future and I hope some will help you with your projects. Dean
Watched all three videos. Your thoroughness, cleaning, and details are 5 stars. Many poorly made videos with subpar information on UA-cam which is frustrating for people.
Thanks for watching all 3 Mike and for the kind comments. Dean
I hope you make money through UA-cam because you definitely deserve to. One of the best instructional videos I have ever watched! Just ordered my new bearing you listed. This video has made this so much easier for me. Can't thank you enough!!
Thanks for the kind words DIY-J-G. Yes my videos are monetized but I enjoy shooting the clearest, best lit, 4K videos I can present so good folks like yourself can do their own repairs. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions keep up the amazing work. Guys like you can make a huge impact in other people's lives. I have the same model tractor as you that I'm trying to repair to keep it running. Your video will save me hundreds and a whole lot of time!
@@G5questman I’m glad to help. Best of luck in all your projects and thanks again for viewing and the kind comments. Dean
What an excellent 3-part video with your very detailed how-to instructions!!!! Thank you for producing this. I have the same John Deere L130. When I am driving it around the yard for about 30 minutes, it also struggles to go uphill. After watching this video, I feel confident I can repair it.
I know you can do it. Good luck and check back in.
Now THIS folks, is how you do an instructional video!
Thanks so much for this very clear and concise
video of the K46 transmission rebuild.
Your attention to detail should be noted by professional shops,
I would say get a couple of short lengths of Aluminium or Copper
angle to make soft jaws for your vice.
I'm a groundsman at a Public School here in Australia
and our Husqvarna mower's transmission has failed.
Locked in gear and will not move forward or reverse.
Disengage does not work as well.
The machine is in tidy condition (500hrs) not as tidy as yours though😉
and it is a second mower, we have a new Ferris 600 zero turn but we
would prefer to keep that for the not so gnarly areas around the school.
Nobody wants our Husky and say it is too expensive to repair, so I put it to
my boss that I have a crack at it and she gave me the go ahead.
I realise if I open it up it could be a basket case but worth having a look,
as it may need a few parts and some TLC before reassembly.
The 22hp Briggs is still strong as an ox.
Your video has given me more confidence to do so.
Cheers!👍
I am honored by your kudos. The 'very' reason I began doing these videos was because everything I watched, I struggled with. I couldn't see because of the light, I couldn't understand because of the garbled language and even if I 'could' see, the video was too shaky. It warms my heart to hear of your willingness to take apart the Husky engine, and I trust things won't be 'as' bad once you get into it. My philosophy is: if it's already broken, there's nothing I can do to make it worse. Let me know if you think I can help mate. Cheers. Dean....BTW...love your moniker.
@@PilotViewProductions
Thanks Dean, yes me dismantling the transmission
can't make it any worse......I think!😁
The other guy I job share with was at the "It's a garden ornament" stage,
but I hate waste and we can't afford to have two mowers, so if I can
bring it back from the dead, so be it.
Appreciate your offer of help mate, really do.👍
@@PilotViewProductions
Hi Dean,
pulled trans out of mower today , cleaned up outside case,
drained the oil and opened her up.
Great news (I think?) the bearing beside the brake disc on the motor shaft
had collapsed, locking transmission up.
The rest of the transmission looks good for wear etc and was not leaking oil.
I will try and match bearing locally, reassemble, fill with oil and cross my fingers.
I know I should order bearing, axle seals etc and do full rebuild but I want to keep the
cost down, including my hours at work and get it going as cheap as possible.
I am aware cutting corners now, may mean doing the job twice or worse.
So, some thinking and pricing to be done.🤔
@@PilotViewProductions
Thanks to your great video, the transmission is back together,
bench tested and now back in the machine and running well.
The true test of time will come after my offsider
....ah....how shall I say this?
puts it through its paces!😉
@@imanenigma3348 excellent work! I’m proud of you and equally so, that my video may have given you a bit of confidence. I knew you could do it. Dean
I want to say there is no better video than this series. I believed the lie from J.D. that this tranny can't be serviced. I was with my F.I.L. when he bought the 155c from J.D. on 6-6-06, now he's gone and I inherited his farm and mower. So after 17 yrs. and 705 hrs. I pulled the tranny & pulled the cover. Filter was a screen & clean so just cleaned magnets, resealed and put 2qts.+ of Hy-Gard J20c which is called for on my J.D., Z920A Zero Turn withTuff-Torq hydro's. Power washed all of mower and installed new steering parts. Tranny and mower now runs as it did when new. Gear teeth showed some pitting but can't do anything about it so keep running and not abuse it. Here's some tips: Remove key from wheels to make it easy to move tranny around. Blow tranny and mower off first, then power wash after removing tranny to keep dirt out. Remove wheels and place axles on jack stands 16" high. Remove the drain plug with tranny level to see true level of oil & check magnet. Put plug back in loose and block tranny upside down. Once secure pop plug back out and drain into a clean 3qt. tub so you can inspect and measure oil. Using a 7/16 nut driver and 3" of cheap hose with 2 hose clamps allows you to spin input shaft to prime hydro and get correct oil level, it turns clockwise. Spend $5 for a new drain plug from J.D. so you don't have to pull it back out to replace a seeping plug like I had to. Turns out the 155c was only made 1 year and had all the frills. That K46 was designed to mow lawns and that's about it but holds up very well if not abused. Keep in mind that tranny only needs to hold up as long as engine and deck holds up in normal conditions. That K46 beats the heck out of the old gear/clutch drive mowers. Excellent mowers, tranny and a big thanks to Pilot View Productions. 721 hrs. now and love my mower.
Thank you very much for your concise discription. I'll be watching this video many many times!!
@@richardw4132 Thanks for watching. Hope it helps
I thank you for your dedication to making these quality videos.
I place a string magnet from an old hard-drive near the snap-rings while removing or installing them. Minimizes lost springs.
Good idea and thanks for viewing. Dean
Amazing movie! David Attenborough's style ...
A thoroughly professional instruction . Well Done!
Thanks Nick.
Can’t imagine anyone ever making a better instructional video. Thank you. I have a Tuff Torq TL-200 in my JD S120. So I contacted Tuff Torq to asked them about pulling my spike aerator and my lawn/leaf sweeper in the fall, or would a K46 trans be a better option. They replied very promptly (to their credit) and stated that they would not recommend pulling anything with the TL-200 or the K46 model trans, and that those models are for mowing lawns only. They suggested that the K58 at the bear minimum, or a K66 trans would be a better option. Imagine how many people with a simple lawn/leaf sweeper or spike aerator are pulling them with their JD factory TL-200 or K46 trans. Thank you again.
Imagine indeed. Wouldn’t you think it would outline that in the owners manual? Thanks for viewing ‘Truth’. Hope other of my videos help as well. Thanks for the compliment. Dean
Thousands of K46's are out there and have been pulling carts (reasonably loaded), aerators, sweepers, and mowing, even pushing a little snow on occasion, for over two decades now. While the K46 is not designed for "ground-engaging" implements, a small spike aerator won't pose much of a challenge. Not all K46's were created equal either. The TL-200 replaced the K46 in many of the lower S100 series models and while it's not as robust as the K46, I still wouldn't hesitate to hook it to a small cart or similar, within the guidelines outlined in the JD Operator's Manuals of course.
Imagine if they offered on better transmission across the board they could lower the manufacturing costs and have a better product overall.
Incredible, succinct videos!!!! Can't thank you enough. Lots of work, even with help from Canada. These are some of the best, complete and helpful guiding videos I've seen.
Appreciate the kind words Robert. It means a lot. Dean
You'd be just the person to explain/demonstrate how the governor on a Briggs & Stratton works, covering such things as adjusting it along with throttle adjustment, surging, etc. Videos are out there but only cover basics, not in-depth understanding.
@@robertruggles5584 If you subscribe, you'll see 2 videos on my channel having to do with B&S carbs. One was a rebuild on my Sears edger carburetor and the other was a total replacement of the carb on that same edger and some bonus video near the end on how the governor and throttle adjustment works. I did not cover surging in that video, but that could be: 1: clogged air filter, 2: clogged fuel filter, 3: loose carburetor bolts, 4: clogged carb needle valves or screens and 5: clogged exhaust (muffler) screen. Try running some Seafoam through you gas mixture before doing anything drastic. *Seafoam is not a sponsor
In 1973, I worked at a car custom place that did factory sun roofs on high-end cars. It was called Glishner Coach Works in Norwalk CT, and we were re 1 of 3 companies in the USA that bullet proofing. We also made formal limos from regular limos. Saying that, I worked on the supposedly the only Mustang 4+4. They wanted to know if we could put a sunroof in the car. Unfortunately, we could not. It was a great place to work, but I could not afford to work there due to the 73 gas war. I could not afford to drive 20 miles one way to work since I was working for $1.80 an hour and could not get gas. Since then, I still work on cars as I always keep it as a hobby and still own my 55 Nomad I build that I found in 1974
I remember back in the 60s, the Metro trucks were built out of Bridgeport CT.
Great video about very rare cars.
so i watched all 3 vids , and after seeing your filter i knew id have to change mine too...its a 2004 jd l130,,,,,,232 hrs.... the vids made it possible for me to do this myself.got it all back together and it pulls good so far , new filter and i went back with full synthetic 15/50 oil. no groaning....yet , so now ill address my deck and then try it out cutting,...great vids man
Thanks Mark for watching: the kind comments; and congrats most of all on your success. Dean
This is the best instructional video I have ever seen. Very precise and complete. Your character and professionalism really shows. I have a Scotts L2548 which is very similar to the JD L130. Thank you for creating this video. I look forward to watching your existing videos and new content. Thanks again.
Thanks for viewing and for the compliment
Please tell me you are an engineer. I have never been so thoroughly discouraged in such an efficient manner 🤣
In all seriousness, just like all the other comments say, this is the best DIY video I have ever seen. All these corporations should be banging your door down for your services. At the very least, you should do videos for assembling IKEA furniture. Thank you, sir.
Lol. Appreciate the compliments. This series took awhile, no lie. I am a retired I.T. person by trade who just so happened to be discouraged by all the dark, shaky videos I found on this subject where people tried to shoot with their cell phones and no tripods. I just wanted to prove a better way was possible. Thanks again. Dean
Excellent video series. We are purchasing a new John Deere and I plan on changing the oil out with the reccomneded transmission oil from Tuff Torq as soon as we get it. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
Thanks for viewing and the kind comments.
This is a very complete and thorough video. Excellent! You aught to have way more viewers especially for the quality of your videos.
My advice for the key words add as many at possible. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the kind words and advice. I try to add as many keywords as possible. Hoping my viewership catches on one day. Thank you for watching. Dean
Great three video series explaining this common problem. Now I'm confident that I can tackle this project.
Wow, you make a very complex and detail oriented project seem straight forward. Hope I never have to do this with mine but feel confident I'm able to after watching this. Another thing that no one comments about is perfect lighting; so many DIY videos are in the pitch black basement and can never see what's being done; either that or grainy video. Very professional job!
Thank you Mapex311 for watching and the kind comments. You touched on the precise reason I started doing these videoed projects. I was tired of trying to interpret shaky dark videos. I pride myself on the daylight box lights and ‘tripod mounted’ videos with a camera other than the one on my phone. Thanks again, hope you’ll subscribe for more.
@@PilotViewProductions Yes, I did indeed subscribe. Thanks again.
I have a 2015 D160 with 170hrs. It struggles to get up hills, especially when hot. It's been getting worse over the last couple years. My back yard has a steep hill. After finding out how common this is and the cause, I removed the K46 and took the cover off. Everything looked ok - no big damage, probably just small wear. The magnets (four in mine) had a good amount of fine shavings. I cleaned everything up and resealed the case. The old oil looked very bad. I put fresh 5W40 synthetic in it, and it climbs hills so much better now. Hopefully I caught it before too much damage was done. I don't do any snow blowing/pushing or tow much of anything, just a lawn aerator once a year. Just wanted to let people know if they catch it soon enough an oil change might get you a few more years before a rebuild is necessary.
I hope it lasts a good long time. Thanks for viewing. Dean
Great video. Unless I am mistaken, I believe that you over torqued your bolt on the lower case cover. They are M8 bolts that require a 12 mm socket (which you used). You tighten them to 35 ft. lbs. , however I believe that they should only be tightened to about 17 ft. lbs. The text in you video even says that M8 is to be tightened to 16-18 ft. lbs. I hope nobody stripped their threads.
You are AMAZING. This is an example of everything done right, to produce a whole greater than the sum of the parts. Most excellent, THANK YOU !! [now I need to find out what transmission I have on my new Deere S120 - supposedly a Tuff Torq TL200, about which I can find almost no information.]
Wow thanks H.H. both for viewing and for the kind comments. I sure wish I had information to assist you with your transmission. Personally I’ve never found much assistance by visiting the TuffTorx website.
You did a great job on your 3 part video.
Thank you. Dean
Dean,
Your videos are excellent, sound, picture clarity, sound, lighting, and the instructions/explanations are all top of the top. Best I have ever watched. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I have a question or need your guidance, see below statement I sent to Jim in Canada.'
I have placed all parts back into transmission. I used the UA-cam video from Pilot View Productions who has a 19 year old John Deere, after he used your rebuild services... So he gives a really good video and teaches a lot.. However, he says in final steps after placing the thrust block in place and torquing it down to 35 lbs. that you should be able to turn the motor with your fingers...well, I can not turn my motor, what should I do? I have removed it three times and I am sure it is all the way down and locked in place, but it does not turn with my fingers.. I do not want to put it all together seal it up, fill it with oil and reinstall it and then find out it does not work.. I will be so discouraged... As you well know installing and uninstalling this transmission is a job.
What do you recommend?
Thank you,
Millard Gillen
Mr. Gillen. First of: thank you for viewing and for the kind comments. Second: you are justified in your concern. I would not seal it up yet until we talk: can you see my email address associated with my channel? If so, please email me a short reply because my response to you will be so lengthy, I don't wish to take up space here. If you cannot see my address, let me know here. Bottom line: I have suggestions for you as mine would not turn initially.
@@PilotViewProductions Mr Dean, I am sorry, I am not sure of your email address. Please send it to me. I do need your guidance, I was pretty sure something was not correct, which is why I reached out to you. Thank you for your response.
Millard Gillen
Great series!!! Well thought out and produced. Great camera shots and very relevant info. Thanks!
Thanks for viewing and for the recognition. Dean
Great instructions. I enjoy every minute of it.
Thank you for viewing and for the kind compliments. Dean
Thanks for sharing your experience with us in such a detailed and interesting manner! Much appreciated!
I appreciate the kind comments. Thanks for viewing. Dean
Amazing job!!
So detailed and so perfectly clear.
Wonder what his profession was.
He took this task as a personal challenge (for what I see he didn’t need to fix the old tractor but he’s a man of determination and what it to prove it to himself thy when he puts his mind to it, there’s no backing down)
and he excelled once again.
Hats off to him.
Thank you very much Idelgado933 for viewing my videos and for the kind comments. I am currently retired, but I was an IT professional for 43 years. I began doing self-help videos because other videos I was watching were dark and shaky using hand-held phones to shoot their videos. I knew good folks like yourself would appreciate good steady well-lit videos that actually shows you step-by-step how to perform a repair, even if you're not particularly handy with tools. I hope I can talk you into subscribing and best of luck in all your projects. Dean
Watched the first 2 videos on this transaxle....If I recall the Tuff Torq manufacturer actually says to change the fluid/filter at 50 hours of use. I did the one in my Cub-Cadet XT1 42" around the 75 hour mark because I didn't know about the service interval at the time, but I'm at 114 hours and so far no issues....relatively short operating time on the machine, I might do another fluid change on it before the end of the season.
People are told these transaxles aren't serviceable so they never change the fluid and just run them till they die and go buy another lawn tractor LOL.
Exactly. Same for me. I’d have been happy to service it had I known to. Thanks for watching and I hope you watch number 3. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Watched #3 as well. I think at that point if I had to tear the thing apart I'd just replace the machine. Given what I have now, I wouldn't bother replacing my lawn tractor when it dies, its replacement is already on my property and will outlive the lawn tractor by a long shot. Bought a sub-compact tractor last year with a 60" mid mount mower...when my lawn tractor dies I won't be too upset to have to mow my yard with my tractor LOL.
The cost of that service to have all that stuff machined isn't too bad, but the time to tear everything apart and wait to get the parts back, put it back together to find out it don't work would not go too well with me.
I think I'll do another oil/filter change on mine towards the end of the season before I put my snow blower on for the winter. I only mow about 3/4 of an acre, and its pretty flat...I do pull my garden trailer around with it occasionally as well, so I'll try and keep ahead on the oil/filter services on the transaxle and see how long it lasts that way.
Fantastic educational video's thank you for putting so much time and effort into our education. I have to give you 11 out of 10 for the impeccably clean mower :) Once again great work and many thanks for putting this task within the reach of most if not all of us.
Thank you for viewing and for the kind comments Vicki. Dean
1:58 Some manufacturere install the transmission the other way around in the mower. For example the Toro DH220 has the short axle on the right. Presumably that's why the thrust block can be installed backwards.
Hello! 1st, my compliments for what is hands down the most thorough how-to I have seen on UA-cam. I 100% understand the amount of effort that goes into this type of documentation and I appreciate you taking the time to do so. I am curious, at 5:18 you make an effort to keep all of the pistons in their respective bores. If they had all spilled out, do you think Jim would have had problems with the rebuild? Thanks again for your time. - Casey
Thanks for the kind comments Casey and the understanding of the efforts. I had about 4 hours of video from 3 camera angles to pare down to the least common denominator of sorts. Now to your answer: no, I don’t think it would have made a difference which piston was where, related to the repair. That said, if I were going to just turn around and reassemble without repair, I’d probably feel better placing those pistons back in order. Thanks for watching. Dean
By far the best K46 Video. All 3. very good detail on orientation of parts. Interested in how many hours on the Transaxle not years. I replaced the oil at 212 hrs when it was slowing down and it only lasted 70 more hrs and died at 282. I chose a new unit for $771. Parts for a rebuild were about $500. I thought for $271 more I would avoid rolling the dice. I would have chose the option you offered if I had known. My K46BR is on a JD X300. The K46BR is simply too undersized for the 616 lb X300 with a 48 deck plus my 230 lbs. I will try that next time it fails. And it will.
Thank you Frankie Bob for the kind words and most of all, the recognition of the work that went into the orientation of parts, and the filming of such. Ironically, I have an 300 series JD as well, an X320. FYI: My X320 has a K58a tranny and it seems to be plenty stout, but I followed my own advice and changed the tranny oil recently as it was beginning to fail going up and down hills and just the oil change did the trick there. As far as the service hours on the L130, I mentioned it in the opening, but it was around 780 before it failed completely. I'm glad I used Jim out of Canada and the tractor continues to give good service since the video. Just because I'm a curious soul however and for my viewer's benefit; I think if it ever fails again, I'm going to take a different route to see if it makes a difference as to longevity...that of replacing the motor and pump and center section with new components like these: www.ebay.com/itm/303122732991?epid=25031083412&hash=item469385d7bf:g:RH8AAOSws-1crfkz. Having had it apart, I feel little else would need replacement save for the gears and they are relatively cheap. Best of luck with your new tranny (hope it never fails again) and thanks again for writing. Dean from Pilot Mountain, NC
@@PilotViewProductions 800 hours on an L100 series tractor is excellent. Exceeds the intended design life by a significant margin!
How many hours will these k46 last. I bought a scott 2548 with 680 hours on it for are trail club. Been fixing up mower over the summer but using it also like 28 hours of use so has 708 hours now. It actually was working very good going up hill on trails before taking apart. First owner mowed a very flat area. I watched your great vid and decided to do oil filter change. Oil and filter were very dirty but not much metal on magnet and gears looked great inside. Hopefully I caught it in time and will work a couple more years for are club which will work it hard with hills and rough terrain. Again thanks for great vid.
@@chrispederson4157 Thanks for viewing and the kind comments. I would be remiss if I pretended that I could predict the number of hours your transmission will last. If, for example, you were to replace the motors and worn gears every time it was necessary, it could last indefinitely. While these transmissions are not as tough as their larger sized cousins, we are still putting dozens of hours per season on ours and have surpassed 1000 hours. I feel like it is just as strong as it ever was. If it were to fail again, I might try the option where I replace the motors rather than trash the mower.
@@PilotViewProductions Ya I actually wish while I had it apart I sent parts to guy in Canada to fix since I live in canada. Of course I did not watch your 3 vid till after I put back together. Oh well we will see how long it last. Thanks for quick reply.
@@chrispederson4157 Since 4 or 5 years ago, to replace these transmissions was over $800 (who knows how much today), to me, it would still be worth replacing most or all of the worn internal parts rather than buying a new transmission. Let's face it, the motor, deck and transmission are the life blood of any mower. My opinion is: if you can reasonably repair any of these 3 components, it's worth it, versus buying a new mower. That's just my 2 cents worth however.
A great series. Thank you for making such a detailed how to
Thanks for viewing and commenting Bryan. Hope I can count on your subscription so I can continue to bring videos that I hope will help
you in the future. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions I’ve subscribed brother
The JD mower that belongs to my son quit pulling. The filter was spotless. Do you know the likely cause of inop?
springs get shorter over time like clutch springs do they do shim the springs in some rebuilds the swash plate can wear and the linkages also making it need more travel to get full drive a machine on flat glass with 500 grit sandpaper on the pump body and cylinder housings will help make sure the brake is adjusted perect to or it will hold the relief pin on the motor and make sure the rear push rod is all the way in simple mistake that one ive made before after a rebuild thought it was still bad but then i noticed the rod was out haha
Great Video! Thank you very much. One question: Do you know what Jim did to the parts? Did they look any different than before the rebuild?
He mills down or replaces intolerances in the pistons on the motors…flattens any worn spots or replaces the bearing races…etc.
excellent video, very informative. I sincerely appreciate it. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for
Viewing and the kind comments. Dean
I do this everything what you show in this movie. but i work in my tracktor half hour and next dont have power drive and everything is hot . What is problem? Change the motor inside the box or what? Sorry to my English
If you watched all 3 of these videos, you'll see that when I just changed the oil and filter, it didn't fix mine either. In the 3rd video, I provided a link to send your motors to this guy in Canada who will rebuild them for a bit over $100.00. A great bargain. Or, you can buy new ones for $340.00. Either way, I suspect your motors are shot, like mine were.
I have JD L120. Is it necessary to remove the axles and the fan shaft? I don't recall you mentioning or explaining why you removed them? Otherwise, excellent video especially reassembling. I'd be lost putting it back together. I just got around to opening up the K46 and draining the oil. I am a bit concerned by the large amount of metal filings on the magnet. It only has 238 hours. But did frequently pull heavy loads with this tractor (14' drift boat uphill, lawn cart with dirt, uproot shrubs off the ground, aerator...). Hopefully it is salvageable.
When you took all the parts out of the transaxle, did you just dumped them all in a container and worried about the order of reassembling them later?
@@ggtaruc2578 No, not necessarily but as you could see, my fan shaft bearing was shot, so necessary for me. As for the axle seals, some folks recommend changing every few hundred hours or when you have the rear end dropped down.
@@ggtaruc2578 I dumped each assembly into the cleaner and didn’t worry about reassembly as long as I didn’t lose my video of how they went back.
Thank you. I noticed my differential gears are damaged hence the metal filings on the magnet. The pumps seem ok. Do you know if the pumps have to be sent in? It appears the differential gears can be purchased.
@@ggtaruc2578 If you’re sending the parts to my guy Jim in Canada, yes. Send the pumps cause he will refinish the pump faces for you even if they appear okay.
Great job sir!
Thank you
What keeps that little pin in place? The oil once it's in? I don't understand that. It can literary just slide right out the back and fall right? Also, it doesn't line up with the motor anywhere right?
On what I'll call the 'front' side, the motor washer is what the pin presses against to break the seal between the motor and the center block housing and lets you free-wheel. You'll see me remove the washer beginning at 3:55. On the rear, the flat end of the post that sticks through the case shown sticking up at my right pinky finger at 28:47 is what holds it in there. If the arm is turned to the flat spot the pin retracts and allows for regular driving. To free-wheel: pulling the free-wheel rod, it turns the post away from the flat to a round spot, thereby pressing inward on the pin and breaking the seal. Thanks for watching. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions I think I understand now. There is a post that sticks up next the back side open hole that keeps it in place. I hope it's where it needs to be, about to place my cover back on.
Actually what position should that black lever be in currently to hold it? Mine looks like its in a mid position with 2 other notches on either side. I don't want to move it right now haha.
@@G5questman Pushing the black lever toward what would be the back of the tranny is in free wheel mode. Pushing the lever towards the front would lock the wheels.
@@PilotViewProductions thanks for all the informative responses. I will say that I tightened the bolts to 35 ft lbs as well for the cover and snapped one of the long ones in the middle and started to strip one on the outside I believe.
Took the cover back off and had to drill it out and get it with an easy out. Replaced with another bolt. Took a lot longer because I had to remove almost all the parts and try to keep the housing as clean as possible still. I recommend tightening until snug and then a quarter turn once the sealant sits an hour. I noticed the instructions Jim sent back said 90 lb/in on the paper. Just FYI for others.
Awesome 😎 Thanks
Thanks for viewing Jean. Dean
There is another good You-Tuber that did work on the transmission in one of his videos. I think it is the same problem. His channel is BriansMobile1. Good to know information. Again, thank you for the series.
Thanks again for viewing. I'll have to check out your recommendation. Have a great weekend. Dean
Your video is excellent. I would qualify as one not handy with mechanics but after watching your video I think I might give it a try. Can you list what extra parts you purchased that were not included in the rebuild? Also are there different size pump shaft bearings and how do you know which one to buy? Thank you for all of your effort.
Hello Dean of O. Catchy name. Thanks for viewing and I hope I can talk you into subscribing. Extra parts ordered were at Jim’s suggestion save for the shaft bearing which I ordered online. If it is a Tuff Torq tranny, I suspect the inner and outside diameters are the same for all models but certainly if you go the route I went and contact Jim, he would be able to advise. Aside from the axle shaft seals and the main drive shaft seal, the only other extra part I ordered out of necessity was the main shaft bearing. Of course, you can see from the video that the oil, filter, and gasket sealant were purchased separately. Thanks again for viewing. PS: I think you saw in the video how I measured the dimensions of the shaft bearing. I’d do the same for yours but I suspect it is the same size as mine. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Thank you for your swift reply. And I did subscribe. I would be an idiot not too! One more question. If you have a hilly yard wouldn't this be more than likely to happen again and should I look for something with a better transmission? Thank you.
@@deanofo9343 Eventually, yes it probably will happen again. But given that my tranny was 20 years old before I performed this work, I don’t feel badly at the cost of these parts to perform the repair.s if it takes another 20 years to fail. Plus it really depends on the size of the loads you are pulling up and down those hills. Cheers. Dean
Excellent video. I'm curious, what ended up being the actual problem with the transmission? I mean, what did Jim do to your parts to make them work properly again?
His rebuild includes refinishing the pistons on the motors and replacing as necessary. He checks the tolerances on all parts and replaces accordingly. Remember in the video how loose the one piston was that I wiggled during disassembly? No fluid should be able to escape around those pistons for one thing. Thanks for watching. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions That makes sense. I guess if no gears are broken or filters clogged there's really nothing else other than the charge pump and hydrostatic motor. Thank you for getting back to me. This was the best K46 video I've ever watched.
@@eosjoe565 Thanks EOSJoe. Means a lot. Hope I can talk you into subscribing. ...and, if you need assistance with your JD project, let me know. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Done
My mower is doing the exact thing. I changed the oil with 5:50. Didn’t work. I’m not to sure doing it myself so I would have to pay a buddy if he was willing to do the job. By the time I pay for parts and some labor costs it might be cheaper to order a new one for 700.00-800.00 bucks. And it would be shipped to me and I can install it in less than a half hour. What’s your opinion sir? By the way your video is the best how to video I’ve ever seen. P. S. I have 900 hours on my original one , I guess I was very lucky.
Paul first of: thanks for viewing and for the compliment. Secondly: it just depends on your comfort level. I actually enjoy doing this kind of work albeit I had never tackled anything this complex. You’ve got so many how to videos on how this works, for me, the least worry would be getting it done. I think you should save some $$$ and dive in and watch this video and do it yourself. If you do t feel good about having the parts rebuilt, I’d definitely just order the new pumps and still do it myself but that’s just me Paul. But you’re correct: if you’re going to pay someone to do this and buy the parts, why not just buy a new tranny? Much success either way you go and thanks again for viewing.
Excellent Video and Result. Who in Canada do I send my Trans to?
The guy I linked to in the description section is from Canada.
How do you change the filter in the rear-ended of a John Deere saber
I will have to reach out to my faithful followers...anyone out there know the answer to Paul's question?
Great video but that floor coating would drive me crazy. Don't drop Anything!
Lol. I never do. Thanks for viewing. Dean
Great videos
Thanks for viewing James. Dean
Agree with the comments below.
Great work ( first time I’ve ever commented on a video on UA-cam )👍
Thanks for the comments Stewart and for watching. Dean
good job Thank you
Thank you too
Just curious…How is everything holding up after 2 years? I just sent my parts to Jim.
Thanks for asking. Still going strong, I'm happy to say. I don't pull heavy garden trailers etc., however; I do have a double grass bagger on the rear and that creates some weight in addition to me. Good luck with your re-assembly. Reach out with any questions. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Per my comment above, I used to pull heavy loads with my L120. My home has a walkout basement so both sides of my yard go uphill to my driveway. If I get this fixed, I will continue using the pull-behind aerator and lawn cart but no more boat or uprooting shrubs.
@@ggtaruc2578 yeah probably a good idea to stay away from the heavy stuff with the K46 tranny.
Does this guy on ebay machine down the 2 circle surfaces on the center block that the piston blocks ride up against?
Those are large washers in my case and I didn’t send mine to him nor ask him to machine them down. I suspect he definitely works on the piston faces or replace them as necessary depending on the ‘play’ but use the link or look him up and email him for further inquiries about the machining. If the washers are grooved badly you might just wanna replace. Might be cheaper. Dean
For all that work and you dont bother fitting the drainplug kit or the magnet upgrade at the filter ??
1: The addition of extra features is outside the scope of this series 2: I am more than aware of the drain plug kit but if you watched the first video, you’ll note I can’t get to the fill plug under the fan w/o dropping the axle. So, if I can’t refill the transaxle w/o removing it from the tractor what’s the use of installing drain plugs? 3: the addition of the magnet upgrade could have been performed except I wanted to stay true to the title. This is not an upgrade video. Besides most people rarely get 19 years out of a mower. This one has performed flawlessly using the original magnet configuration. 4: Do you have a video where you install the features you mentioned? If yes, please post the link as I’d like to watch it.
Great video, Thanks for sharing! I'm doing a cub cadet as I write this reply!!!
Thanks for watching and for the compliment Bob. Lots of success on your Cub project. Dean
@@PilotViewProductions Well my rebuild was a success! And a very big part of that was due to your video, I can't thank you enough for the QUALITY video and crystal clear explanations. Thanks again!!!
@@bobatbilletcreations I’m proud of your success. Dean
Wooo if you had a old VS system you would only be charging out two belts 😢😢😢
VS is the very best 😮
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I might just skip all the nonsense and send my parts to Jim
Absolutely.
E for effort
What would I have to do, to get an 'A'?
@@PilotViewProductions my wife said I'm a A lol you do organized work I like that
Is the pump block supposed to fit nice and snug sliding onto shaft splines? I took mine apart and noticed it has play on the shaft. It stop going forward and backward. Ive had it apart 3 times and nothing. I polished the surfaces only and no metal was found anywhere. I just noticed the play with pump block today after taking apart again. Im wondering if inner pump block worn, and not shaft splines.
all gears looked good even.
Scott, the center block is not supposed to be have any play in it. Did it seem to be torqued down properly when you examined it?
I just pulled my transaxle. It was making same noise, now no forward or reverse. When i turn the pulley, neither tire turns. Im wondering i actually have a gear damaged. There was no shavings on outside magnet. I have not opened yet,...nooooo
Well, before you panic: it could be that perhaps some of the oil actually boiled or spilled over the breather cap and the oil level is soooo low, the wheels won't turn. It could be that the oil viscosity has totally broken down and it won't hold a seal enough for the pump to turn the gears. You really won't know til you pull the cover however. Taking it up a notch, you may have stripped one of the drive gears inside...again, not a deal breaker as a full set of gears is not that expensive. One would think if it were a gear(s), you would have seen more metal shavings on the outside magnet however. It may also be that the freewheel engage lever has become disconnected. I prefer to remain optimistic for you until you say otherwise. Lastly; when I was purging the air in my video, initially I panicked because the wheels wouldn't turn. That is, until I realized I need to either push or pull back on the lever that the forward/reverse pedal connects to. Dean