Avalanche 6” Rough Country Lift and Overhaul Part 4
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Final days (5 and 6) of the Avalanche build! I continue working on installing the 6" Rough Country lift kit as well as replacing some other worn out components.
Link to Rough Country 6" Lift Kit - www.roughcount...
Merchandise:
👕 White Logo Shirt - teespring.com/...
👕 Black Logo Shirt - teespring.com/...
Music:
West Coast by Ryan Little
Drowning by Ryan Little
/ iamryanlittle
it looks sweet. the tires and the lift really give it some bad attitude. nice job
Thanks! Def way better than before
That's looking amazing. I totally Agree with you when you cleaned and painted everything while you were under there. Try the stuff called "perfect 10" it makes black plastics shine like new.. and if your plastics are faded use a heat gun to get em back to black. 👊
Good suggestions , I’m thinking about using bedliner on all my plastics , buddy did it and it looks mean!
@@MrNabmilf Never use a heat gun because it pulls the oil out of the cladding and make its brittle and look even worse the next time it fades. I have a 07 Avalanche and I just use Solution Finish trim restorer. It was pretty much made for the Avalanche. There is a new top dog that is made with graphene and last way longer. Its Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer. I have never used it but all the high end detail shops have changed to it. I'm a detailer also.
@@mikedenton25 I have a 2002 Avalanche with badly faded cladding and I have used the Gtechniq C4. It is holding up well and I recently posted 2 videos about my experience with it. I recommend the C4. I would not heat gun it, and also I strongly advise against painting it because the plastic is not made to accept paint and just won't stick in the long run, and in order to prep the plastic for paint you will have to sand it, which permanently defaces the finish. When the paint finally comes loose somewhere and the weather gets under it the paint will peel in sheets and you are left with defaced cladding.
14:15 he got that lifted drift truck alignment
THANK you so much for explaining in details the trials and tribulations and not trying to sugar coat the hard stuff,I definitely appreciate THAT 💪
I just got the same truck and plan on taking the same journey as you with lifting it and a bunch of other stuff but,I'm not as skilled as id like to be so it should be fun 🤷🏼♂️😂
That came out really nice , good job . Looking forward to your next video . Take care .
Thanks! Worth the time I put into it for sure
I was just thinking of getting a Avalanche after I pay off the Tahoe and make it a little project. Keep us posted especially on the tuner.
Funny you say that cause I’m actually thinking about buying a Tahoe or suburban to drive while I fix some of the rust on my avalanche. I have a video up on the tuner using it to change axle ratio and tire size. I will eventually have more videos on it as well. Thanks for watching!
jtmoffroad yea I have a 2013 Tahoe LT with 125k miles. I’ve only had two issues one being the fuel injectors and recently the Throttle body sensor which I was able to fix in about 30 min and I’m surely no under the hood car guy lol. But I’ll check out some more vids and see what you got going. Catch you later
Not bad at all!
Bravo bravo bravo👊!!! Looks awesome! Hard work pays off. Enjoy man enjoy!
Much appreciated! Things a blast!
IT LOOKS SO AWESOME!!!!!
Thanks man!! It’s def got me motivated to give it more attention too so it’s only gonna get better!
Damn that thing looks so good!! bet you are glad you finally got it done. now you need a photo shoot and a video of it on a few small trails. Makes me actually like the avalanche.
Thanks bro! I sure am glad that part is done and I def want to get it out on some trails. Really wish I had some trails to take it out on nearby
jtmoffroad come up my way we can take it out on some trails
I have a 2008 chevy avalanche wanting to install a 6” lift. Yours looks great.
Looks awesome man, good work
Thanks!!
4:38 Just above and left of the torsion bar, those rusty tubes are the fuel lines. I hope those have been replaced or they are surely leaking by now. Those are a GM part and a big job to replace, they route along the frame rail under the ABS module so that has to come out. Then after you get the brake lines hooked back up to the ABS module you will need a Tech2 scanner to run the automated bleed procedure to get the air out of the ABS module or the brake pedal will be forever spongy. I had a guy try with his $10K Snap On scan tool and it could only test run the ABS but could not run the bleed, which is similar to a bench bleed on a master cylinder and requires a person to maintain pedal pressure while it cycles the ABS and pumps fluid to the MC to let the air reach the reservoir. Must have the Tech2 for the automated bleed (I have one). I'd say the torsion bars should be replaced also. Those wear out without looking any different and lose some of their supporting resistance same as the rear coils do. I replaced the entire frame and chassis on my 2002 Avalanche because I too live in the rust belt, and it all rusted away on me. I mean a new replacement part frame from GM and all new suspension components except the steering knuckles which I reused. But I opted for stock, not lifted, because I do not wheel in my Avalanche. And it practically takes dynamite to get the wheel bearing hubs out of the bores in the steering knuckles. Amazingly GM recommends thread locker on the 3 bolts to the hubs. They will get so rusted in tight that you could take all the bolts out and safely drive, I am not joking. I assembled the new ones with serious urethane anti rust coatings, and of course I use anti seize by the tub while others use it by the tube. I literally have tubs with brushes. An excessive amount of anti seize is usually about right.
Looks great man. If youre willing to put the time in a heat gun works great on the plastic cladding. Or a fine grit bedline spray
Thanks! I’m actually gonna have a vid up eventually when I use the carworx finish restorer on it. I’ve heard a lot of good things
a heat gun is the worst thing to use for faded plastics. No matter how patient you are you end up with wave lines. Do it properly by wet-sanding the plastic with some 1000 grit and then applying either a true restorer or even just doing a quality trim&bumper paint.
Sweet video really informational watched all 5 videos 👍🏻
Thanks! Really appreciate you watching them giving me the feedback!
I needed a new battery in my 2015 Cadillac ATS which is in the trunk. So I was skeptical of me doing it and breaking shit so I called dealer to see how much. It was cheaper installed by dealer than just the price of the battery at advanced Auto! Crazy
Hello, how much is the ground clearance of the vehicle after the 6-inch upgrade? (Tire and rim size is?)
A video about their height and ground clearance were really great
Did you purchase standard replacement control arms for this or ones that accommodated the lift? I see the caster/camber plates on the upper control arms.
You mentioned spacers, did you have to use wheel spacers to fit 35" tires? If so what size spacers?
Didn’t have to use spacers to make them fit. The front bumper needed a little trimming on the plastic but that was it
Love the video 💪
What’s the rim size and offset? Looks good!
Looks amazing dude. I have the same truck. Year, color etc.
Thanks! They’re good lookin trucks. Don’t see many that color around
Do u like the ones with all the plastic better I think these look way better I have an 08 Ltz wish I could take it off road
@@Shallowballow I think the cladding looks like shit
What Hanes manual are you using?
Just been using the Silverado, Sierra 99-06 manual. It has a number of related vehicles under the main title on the front cover. Nice cheap reference
how much time did you spend on the liftkit to get it installed?
Did you have to crank the keys at all to match the rear?
Nope I kept the keys at about the same as what they were and it seems level
I want to do a 4 inch lift on mine. I’ve heard that if you install the 6 inch lift and just don’t crank the keys or back them off that it will give you 4 inches of lift. Do you know what the measurements is from ground to fender in the front so I can compare to mine.
Ecm for the tires ???
I think you mentioned you used wheel spacers in the back to true-up with the front after lift. What size wheel spacers did you end up using in the back? Thanks!
Most people buy 2 inch spacers to make them even.
Hey there, did you replace the factory torsion keys with OEM keys, or are they 1-3” keys? ThankYou
Only replaced with oem keys. Don’t need 1”-3”
@@jtmoffroad ahh okay. I just got a 6” lift. I already have levelling keys in. Is that a bad idea in your experience to use leveling keys with the new 6” RC?
Honestly not sure. I can tell you that my front end actually sits just a little higher than the rear and that’s with oem keys. I wonder if you would be able to have the leveling keys low enough to keep it level
@@jtmoffroad one way to find out ey 😂 thanks for the help!
Good luck! Hope it works out!
When you lifted this, how far up did you turn up the keys to get the 6” inch lift?
Did you have to use spline lugs
How tall is the garage door?
No se entiende el idioma x eso casi no se mira
What wheel and tire size you running
17x9 raceline defender 935g wheels and 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja claw
What size tires?
35”x17”x12.5”
Hey bud what size spacers did you use for the rear?
2 inch