So true! I got this set for Xmas and have been using it all week. Now that I'm finally comfortable with it I wanted to mess around with the display and setting some things up and this video was the first to come to mind! The only thing thats missing is the paddle shifter sound dampening trick.
God, how detailed and thoughtful this review is, I looked at many different reviews on this steering wheel and accidentally found this video, honestly I'm just delighted with the quality of the video, how much everything is told in the smallest details. Friend, thank you for such an incredibly interesting video, I'm glad I found your channel, I will definitely follow your activities in the future, and you also have a cool voice!)
I recently made the decision to start looking into a rig and I (like everyone else) am SO GLAD I found Barry and the SRG. I just wanna shake this guy's hand, sip my coffee, and politely ask him to keep talking. Lol Words cannot express the great work this gentleman is doing.
This is my first experience with a kit like this and I feel like I have been using it for all my life after this video! Absolutely fantastic! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this!
My gut is still telling me to look for at T300 RS or GT and enjoy the stronger torque and simpler electronics. Plus being able to switch wheels on the T300 could be a great for those that want a F1 or GT3 style wheel as a future upgrade.
I’d save a bit more for a CSL DD. Having tried the GT DD Pro, I gotta say it’s night and day compared to my old T150. Never owned a T300 tho, tried it once at a local Microsoft store a few years ago.
@@bowentian2485 Sadly you are very correct. I am limited to using my home office desk and I know it would shake apart in a few days wifh the CSL DD. LOL. I Can save the extra $300 and somehow use that to upgrade a wheel for a T300 and a better set of brake pedals.. First World Problems. Life is good... Cheers.
You can also run these new pedals with the t300 like I am. I’m running mine inverted. Check my channel to see. The t300 with t3pm is the best of both worlds IMO..👌🏼
@@ysiadpir1423 I see your point. Tbh I think getting a wheel stand and a load cell brake would be much more important than the wheel base itself or the steering wheel. It’ll give you so much more confidence and consistency. If you had to choose between the two, I’d recommend a decent wheel stand with pedal mount over a set of pedals.
Thankyou so much! After an accidental drop, the left paddle shifter wasnt working. I assumed that something had become disconnected and was frightened to open up everything. This helped an immense amount!
I bought mine 3 days ago, much better than g25 i had, pedals are the biggest difference. Tried g29 before buying this and so far no regrets. G29 looks better and has full leather on wheel and thats about only thing its doing better than t248 in my opinion. Never tried load cell pedal but these feel very nice and brake pedal out of box is pretty sweet. I was considering buying t300rs gt or ferrari integral but there were only couple of used units few years old and people asked about 400$ for them, and to order new i had to wait for few weeks and packages cost 100-150$ more than t248 which was available right away and t248 has new pedals which i would have bought eventually. Only real drawback for me is kinda slow turning and re centering. If you go rally or drift you can feel it, every other discipline its not noticable. Feels plastic but once you start racing doesnt matter anymore, shifters are very fast but kinda noisy. In person looks better than pictures and videos. Tried it in gt sport and f1 2017 on ps5 so far (will try dirt rally and drive club) and everything feels spot on after tweking for a minute in game settings. F1 recongnizes it as t300 and gt sport as t-gt. Overall im satisfied and i like this thing, at this price range only thing i could have bought new is g923 which cost 40$ more and has worse pedals and is pretty much the same as g25/27 on the inside from what i could find online. Hope this helps anyone.
still enjoying it ?? struggling, looking at the g29, t48, or the fanatec gt setup. rig location would have to be movable, ps4 pro, and a pc. heck I haven't used a ffb wheel in like 20 years since the Microsoft wheel, lol .... got gt7 the other day, and sparked interest.
If you have extra cash around go fanatec for sure, playseat challenge and t248 so far so good. Only for rally bit meh otherwise really good wheel and pedals combo
@@sekeli69 went t248 and gt lite, returned both, got the gt omega titan and a 8nm gt DD pro setup, and got my hands on a ps5 too, had a ps4 pro and still have a pc
Amazon has the T248 right now for $325 and the T248X (xbox edition) currently for $300. Much better for these prices. And remember the pedals normally cost $129 and are magnetic sensors instead of pots.
I’m new to sim racing and wheels I borrowed a g923 for about a month and decided on this instead. This is certainly more powerful that the Logitech. I did however get this set for 260$. So far it has done everything I have asked of it. The pedals seem pretty solid as well
I would pick this any day of the week over a T300.. Had 3 T300's go bad and I know plenty of others with poor experiences regarding the T300. Probably easily the most RMA'ed wheel on the market period, feels good when it works but man it has alot of problems. Don't get a T300 if you don't want a high risk of RMA down the road. Logitech wheels, T150 and by the looks of it, this are much more durable.
There's a damn good reason that every single Thrustmaster wheel starting from the T248 onwards has had an EXTERNAL power supply brick from a 3rd party manufacturer rather than the in-house designed internal PSU's found in the T300 & similar (inc. the T150/TMX, although bc they pull MUCH less power, they fail a lot less). 🤷 If a T248 or T128's PSU dies all you need to do is have Thrustmaster send you (or buy if not under warranty) a new power supply brick for that specific model, NOT replace the entire wheelbase T300 style! And being designed/manufactured by companies who ONLY make power supplies, they tend to be more reliable in general.
This is like going to your mates and sitting with him for 3 hours talking about his wheel or buy one and find an explanation for the girl at the counter why you're bringing it back. The display is very helpful and a great wheel.
Due to the small motor, the gears are used to Multiply torque. So the steering shaft outputs higher torque than the motor shaft. Also, a quick release mount should be at this price point.
Very detailed video, the best I've seen so far for this product. I'm considering buying this wheel and this video was the most helpful. Thank you for such indeep review :)
Thanks for all videos you share with us, it's really interesting to see the wheels inside. Actually I have T300RS with T3PA and work good since more than 3 or 4 years, and I would like to replace it with T248. Thanks again.
I am sure it would not make sense to replace a T300 with a T248. I think, you would be much better off by simply replacing the T3PA with T-LCM loadcell pedals which are by far better than the pedals included with T248 and T300RS. Add the "open wheel" rim and you are at the same price for both and get 3 times the value of an T248. : )
@@jorn-jorenjorenson5028 Thanks for your suggestion. I don't need the open wheel because I already have the F1 add on that I use only for F1 games. My T300 has 4 year and half of life, " is tired" that's the reason of change. Of course the pedals set T-LCM is interesting, I am waiting for GT7 on March to choice my new toy. Have a nice one.
@@antonpaco Ok, I understand. I can really recommend upgrading the pedals. I went from T3PA to T-LCM and it made a huge difference in braking and also throttle control (braking felt very strange at first, takes a few days to get used to loadcells...) Of course it is all subjective and I haven't tried the T248, but I owned the T150 at first, which uses the same belt and cogs principle. Surely the T248 has improved, but I would assume you still feel the cogs. Because of that "cogginess" with the T150 I always felt I have some mechanical device in my hands that simulates driving. In contrast, with the smoothness of the T300 I forget it is a FFB wheel and get immersed into the driving. So make sure you won't miss the smoothness of the T300 before you buy a T248. Anyway, most important is to enjoy simracing, no matter what equipment. : ) Cheers!
@@jorn-jorenjorenson5028 Agree, important is enjoy simracing. I have two question for you about T-LCM pedals. 1) Did you move/change the brake default spring? 2) did you need upgrade any sw by pc? Thanks in advance.
@@antonpaco Yes, I use the 2 red springs (the hardest ones) and the washers inbetween (that means the soft spring inbetween is deactivated = no soft travel before it gets harder). But I have it calibrated so that I don't have to press too hard for 100% brakes. This way I have very little movement in the pedal. Feels strange at first, but works perfectly now for me. Way better control over the brakes after a week or so. I installed the T-LCM drivers and calibration software, I think I also had to do a firmware update (not sure tbh). And then assign it in my racing sims (Raceroom and AMS2). Worked immediately, no isues so far. : )
brake spring extraction: 1. push brake pedal to compress spring 2. grab the bottom piece of the compressed spring 3. lift the brake and follow with the still compressed spring to take it out. 4. release tension no pribar rocket science needed;)
I bought it and I think it's a very cool tool. TC, brake bias, ABS, TURBO. I drive in VR and it is very good that go down to P1 if you press button down. You only have to count. 😂
Needed this disassembly, thanks! My belt/gear system falls in and out of mesh, goes from feeling real good, to feeling every tooth of that gear as you turn the wheel.
@@Camola111I wasn't able to fix it, the hybrid mechanism consists of the motor turning a pulley which drives the belt to a slightly larger pulley under the position sensor. that pulley has a gear on the center which directly engages the large main gear. there is no direct link between the gears without going through that belt, could be a defective motor or something im guessing.
Its current $300 price over the past ≈6-12ish months or so is plenty fair. And the ≈$260 sale price that happens every once in a long while is absolutely fucking INSANE value. A regular street price of $250 though with the current market would make every other wheel under $400 completely irrelevant to an legitimately unhealthy level. 🤷 It'd be unbelievably AWESOME for consumers but ridiculously bad for everyone else.
@@Cooe. I also just got a deal for about 230 USD, so it's probably a good deal. I definitely wouldn't have paid more than like 300 USD I suppose. - Thrustmaster asks 350 EUR in... well, Europe, which amounts to... more in USD.
Great review and thank you for just talking about it without saying it's junk because it's more of a car wheel then a super car wheel.. just picked this up for 299 dollars and can't wait to start driving, mostly ATS ETS farm sim and I guess I'm gonna start looking at racing games now.. I'm glad I found your channel and like how you deep dive into the products with facts and not brand loyalty.
Thanks for the great review! My T248 arrived this week my only concern is the loud paddle shifters, they feel great but friggen loud. I'm setup just outside our bedroom so I'm sensitive to the amount of noise I make when racing at night. I was not able to figure out how to "quickly" (and not void the warranty) disassemble the steering wheel to get at the shifter contacts. Was wishing you had done that :-) I've created some shims that I've inserted between the back of the paddles and wheel base to dampen the sound. Used some gorilla tape tacked to a postit and then cut it into strips for shimming. I'd say it cuts the noise down by half, which works for me. I would have loved to get in there and devise a more permanent solution.
@@nomxrcy3327There's actually a super cheap and MUCH easier solution. Get some mechanical keyboard dampener O-rings or like tiny rubber bands like those used for dental braces. Then shove one of them halfway (so you can can easily get them back out if needed) into the middle of the gap made when each paddle is held fully open between it and its normal resting position using a pen-tip or something similar. Need more dampening? Add more rubber bands. 🤷
easiest way on tlcm (and these it seems) to remove that brake spring is put an empty bit socket screwdriver on top of the spring pole , it goes around and u can push down nicely
The only thing I wanna ask right now... Where is the CSL DD review? Barry was supposed to get the early pre-production version but decided to wait for the full production version to get it all apart, and still to this day there's no review...
@@HowsYourFaceFeel yeah if I buy one for myself I can do whatever I want with it, including taking it apart, its not like the competition hasn't disassembled it and learned from it already...
the t300rs kept being out of stock in my area. i decided to get these because they had a usd80-90 discount making it almost similarly priced to a g29. I can say that I had almost no regrets (apart from not being able to swap wheels).
Deciding between both now. Only thing I get for difference is feedback. To it’s just stronger is all and epople Liek that? I’m looking more for things like motion accuracy, accessibility and quality of parts. If it’s missing leather oh well nor a big deal or if one kicks harder not a big deal. I get the more kickback the real it feels but I know it’s tou and that extra strength won’t add realism. I want what’s fun and less frustrating.
@@icemana51 can't say about the FFB feel, though. Its good if its strong because you can turn it down in the settings. I don't have a comparison with other wheels, atm. Main difference is TM uses hall sensors on both wheel and pedal. Meaning its accurate and longer lasting than potentiometers. The pedals on the T-248 feels great without much modding.
@@consume_vegetables I appreciate the comment. Like I said all I saw was oh one is a much bigger gun. Well does it shoot straight cause if not I dont care lol
@@icemana51 the general perception is belts are great feeling but can lag at times. gears are quite strong but they are very notchy and grindy. i don't know about hybrids but they do feel less laggy but the grindy feel is there (slightly). People would advice getting a direct drive if accuracy is what you are looking for. I can't compare between t300rs, g29, t248 because I never tried them for long (store show models only) but I'd get DD if I have the money.
@@consume_vegetables I’m really good at sims on controller and with Gt 7 out my dad watched me. Thought it was awesome but was like I need a real wheel. So anyway I have some cars made with his business logo, essentially like we made a race team with all the businesses we worked with and companies we use to maintain our equipment. Loved it so much he wants to play. So that why I want to get a wheel. He may not oaky again but then again it has to be good for him to even like it in the firto place. Then to see if I even like a wheel. But don’t want shit to just hate it right away. Ordered the g29. As soon as I left purchase it gave me a promotion on the t-248 for the exact same price. So I ahve both from Amazon. Wanted to open the nest of the 2 so I Don’t have a return issue with it.
My T248 worked great for 6 months. Then upshift paddle broke. That works out to just under $100 per month after tax. ($499.00 + in Canada) The epoxy is curing as I type, hope it works. Using plastic as a lever may not be the best plan.
Warranty should be longer or the store you purchased from sucks. - I mean, where I have ordered, I have a 2 year warranty. - But then also, I only paid like 230 USD for the set.
Nice review. The 24 and 25 button would be the left and right turn of the steering wheel so in other words turning it left is 24 turning it right is 25 so they counted it as the left and right joystick so without the 24 and 25 you wouldn't be able to turn lol
Have you ever considered assigning SRG aggregate scores for considerations across products grouped by class/category eg pedal boxes, wheel base, DD? I keep a running tally in my head so to speak about your comments on different entry level kits, hybrid etc but a proper, tangible scorecard with historical reviews & placements would be epic. N of 1 here but from what I know of the community, your word is bond so I’m certain this would be popular. Happy to help with the graphic if you sent me over your list of grades if that’s what it took you to have atleast a draft in place so you can keep focusing on reviewing. Ignore this unsolicited comment if you’ve considered all this before and I missed it/ you already have it.
No, Barry has stated time and time again that he will not be comparing products, his reviews are standalone. People suggest this once every other video and he's gotten tired of shooting them down, only thing he will compare is the quality of the product to the price of said product. Go look at the mission statement of this channel on his website, he wants to help people make informed decisions by giving them the information that's available to him at the moment of the reviews, what he's not out here to do is to tell people what to purchase on a set of criteria that may be important to him but not to the customer. Just think of how many times you can think of Barry saying "now this is what's important to me and is entirely subjective as I know that there's no right answers, only thing that matters are your opinions and tastes". For example some people such as myself may only buy button plates that have Funky-Switches while others couldn't care less about this since race cars don't come with those. Would it be fair to you to give scores set against this when the aim of a product may be simulation and immersion instead of functionality? (I think that this goes directly against the concept of an aggregate score.) Sim racing products rarely ever share identical price Brackets. Go take a look at what the immediate and direct competitor to the CSL DD, Fanatec V3s, Logitech G923, Simagic Mini, VRS DFP, hell even this wheel reviewed today as its closest competitors are over 15% price difference away (unless it's the product it's directly replacing). These companies carefully research where they should place their products would have the least amount of competition at it's price point since sim racing is still too niche of an interest before you're able to do things like this. The moment Barry starts to arbitrarily compare products like this is the day that companies stop purchasing Barry's services. Think about just how much the DD landscape has changed in the last year alone, prices have been almost cut by 1/4, the older products would get absolutely demolished in aggregate scores because they're going up against simple economics of scale and the inevitable progress of technology. (It used to be unimaginable that you could find a DD with a servo motor for under $1000, now we got multiple). Also bro, when u gonna make new vids again? Been like 10 months, don't hold out on me!
@@DavidGarcia-oi5nt thanks for the nuance! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the logic in so far as you stated in your comment is counter to objective, categoric scoring by its very statistical definition. It’s meant to mitigate those issues- that’s why institutions pursue similar things on a regular basis. at a statistical level, categoric scoring is a means of delivering a more colored view of products and significantly benefits a consumer’s decision making. Ironically it’s directly in line with helping the consumer. Your point is valid about comparing apples and oranges but it quite literally is the opposite of what I said and was clear about defining that. Ive heard him, very helpfully I’ll add, compare products anecdotally offhand within his reviews numerous times. That’s actually what sparked my comment which is why I bet he keeps getting asked from others too. This is already achieving the request. I’ve read the statement and don’t see how comparing like products is counter to that. In fact, I would trust Barry over anyone to appropriately define a category to fairly weigh attributes of products allowed to be compared. A neutral party can do this. As per the mission, these are not bought reviews. Thus, he’d be within his rights to deliver objective tiered scoring as no third party would influence outcomes. It’s why rankings exists at stalwarts of industry that provide a service of comparable like inputs. Trust me not all of these places are just spark wrong. If THAT many people are requesting it, that should say something about what ppl are looking for. But again, this is not my channel & just bc ppl want things does not mean you should do it. I’m not commenting on his decision as frankly he doesn’t have to justify himself for a second and he can do as he sees fit. That’s a perfectly acceptable answer, always. I’m simply responding to reciprocate your energy as you didn’t have to be considerate & take the time to explain all that but I can appreciate time is valuable so it’s very interesting insight and is an opportunity in the sim marketplace. If he doesn’t want to do it, trust me I see why. But as always I’ll defend the stats - your saying it’s unfair to other products is ignoring how it works atleast in a pure statistical sense. As for me, we’ll I’ve been building a fully immersive sim set up so I’ve dedicated all focus to lining up every component with all partners in hardware & software to give back the best experience possible which has been a logistical nightmare but will be highly fruitful for sim racing in general bringing ppl to the market. I’ll explain more on my channel soon but it’ll make sense.
please help me , i just got this t248 product in india and there is no service center here .. the buttons and display on the wheel do not work , can you help me to fix the wheel myself please?
i wish you can dismantle the shifter pedal. because i notice the solution for the loud clicking shifter sound is by placing some cushion between the pedal and the casing. i try slot in some tissue and the clicking sound gone. if we can access the pedal shifter i believe we can eliminate the clicking sound eternally.
I bought the t248, however the left paddle seems doesnt have the safe feel as the right paddle shifters. I am talking about the paddle shifters and not paddle. Is this by design or did I get a defective piece. Is the left paddle different from the right paddle? Should I keep it or get a refund.
I haven't seen this wheel in person, just this video, but my initial complaint is the aesthetics. I'm afraid that combo of some leathery material on the outer half of a plastic wheel would feel cheap. Design-wise it seems to follow the more bloated designs of modern car wheels. I prefer simple, open 3 spoke wheels like older sports cars typically used. The cars I most want to sim are from the 1970s-90s. Datsuns, Chevys, Pontiacs, my mom's station wagon, even some Ferraris or Lambos of the period, but not modern cars. Based on photos I much prefer the wheel on the T300 RS GT for that reason. It's a good wheel shape - though it has some small warts to hold the "L2/R2/etc/etc" buttons, which I'd rather have on the base (to act more like a dashboard). But it looks good still. In spite of my preference for an older, sportier style of wheel - I do think the T248's text display is interesting. That might be cool - if the programming interface for it is open and simple enough to get widespread game support. Lots of buttons on this wheel but I'm a little perturbed by what appear to be unnecessary limitations on how they can be used. Those switchable buttons (E-1, E-2, E-3, E-4) are a fine idea, but it would be much better done in software instead of in the wheel itself. When playing a game like Truck Simulator, I would want to use the left rocker switch for turn signals, for example, and maybe also for looking left/right. But that's not possible because the "Up" movement is reserved as the switch for that "encoder" system. It's a shame that such a handy toggle switch, directly by your left thumb, is effectively useless because Thrustmaster reserved it. If it were up to me, I'd rather use one of the less prominent buttons, perhaps even on an entirely separate controller, to control this "page flipping" of functions for several different other buttons on the wheel, and I wouldn't necessarily only want to flip the 3 buttons that Thrustmaster chose. This switching functionality could be done with much greater flexibility in 3rd party software. The same software could also send text messages to the LCD with a user friendly name of what "page" of functions you're activating (instead of a generic name like "E-2"). Unfortunately, because Thrustmaster built a very limited switching feature into the wheel's firmware, they had to block out arbitrarily chosen buttons for it which hinders the ability to use those buttons differently than what Thrustmaster decided. The loss of direct functionality of that left rocker switch is especially tragic in my opinion. But before I jump off a bridge, I should consider the possibility that this whole "switching" feature in the firmware can be disabled, making all those toggle switches direct mapped so software can manage them without interference. I hope so. Those other 2 buttons "Mode" and "Display" could have been mapped as controller buttons also, if they just required holding in for a couple seconds to trigger the firmware menu. In Truck Sim, I'd love to be able to quickly tap the "Display" button to toggle the in-game dashboard - and have that even get relayed to the wheel's LCD.
wait discontinued the t 300 for this. if that's true its going to suck for value sim drifters as the t300 was the go to. for drifting hybrid drives suck because its literally double the resistance.
Any chance on getting the TG-T II? I'm actually getting mine this coming week along with the Gran Turismo DD Pro. Probably going to do a comparison. Your videos are always top notch man. I'd like to get into PC gaming more often but trying to build a good rig is super expensive atm.
@@JoelSc14 I got it 3 months ago when it first came out early edition I haven't tried it on GT7 yet because I'm working, and playing Elden Ring and testing the T-GT II but I'm going to be honest I like the T-GT II a lot
@@brulaapgaapmeester8052 🤣 They're pretty dang loud I play with a friend in game chat and it sounds like he's doing something else as he shifts frantically 🤣
good afternoon I have a GT II, can you tell me what the IC code is next to the MCC42A diode? it's the small board where the 1ue colored cables come in and powered with 24v, can you help me?
Quality information. Will there be any update on the review with the 2.0 firmware and the added force settings? Would like to know detailed information on the force settings and FFB combinations.
Hi, great video, just bought one of these for my PS5. I dont understand what the Rotation Degree is for? If its set to 270 and then 900 what is the difference please?
Or really: Total degrees/2= how many degrees left or right it takes to get the in game tires to fully rotate left or right. 270/2=135 or the rotation indicator at the top of the wheel at 12 o'clock will indicate fully left turn lock when the indicator is at full left then another quarter turn. Just the opposite for full right lock. 900 degrees means 900/2=450 degrees of rotation left or right to fully rotate tire. There are 360 degrees in a full circle, so 450 degrees means you will have to rotate the wheel 1 whole rotation and then another 90 degrees or 1.25 total rotations to go full left. Another 1.25 rotations to go full right for a total of 2.5 total rotations from full left to full right.(900 degrees)
Hey Barry. Have you heard anything about the T-GT II having failures? I bought one the other week and there was a calibration fault right out of the box, then today i get a replacement and the transducer was going haywire as soon as i get on track with it. Not sure if it's worth another replacement or just get a refund. Thanks
1:10:05 Tight clamps? You know that with the heat, those clamps will come to loose and sooner or later some mechanics will break! And not that they give it to you as a gift. Absolutely better than the Logitech g29/923
Bonsoir, la pedale de frein de mon pedalier tlcm ne fonstionne plus. elle reste bloquee sur la force 255 sur le programme de calibration. Savez vous de quoi cela peut provenir? Merci et bonne journee.
I have a bit of an odd request. Would it be possible for you to rank the wheels you have tested in order? or on a scale from 1-10? Im trying to figure out what the best entry to mid level steering wheel would be. Especially since the prices are so high right now, I want to make sure I am getting something higher quality. But I dont want to spend thousands of dollars on an entire setup
Hello can you help me please !! . I have a laptop with a 3.0 driver windows 8.1 . My wheel t 300 is not reading it correctly . How can i use a 2.0 usb driver ,should i buy an external drive
Jesus Christ this is one of the best product reviews I have ever watched.
only person thorough enough to smell the wheel to let us know it might be leather
I absolutely agree. Huge props for the extremely thorough review.
+++
100% agree, this should have way more views
When you watch one of this guy's reviews, you know you don't need to watch any other reviews, you have ALL the info you're ever gonna need.👍
So true! I got this set for Xmas and have been using it all week. Now that I'm finally comfortable with it I wanted to mess around with the display and setting some things up and this video was the first to come to mind! The only thing thats missing is the paddle shifter sound dampening trick.
God, how detailed and thoughtful this review is, I looked at many different reviews on this steering wheel and accidentally found this video, honestly I'm just delighted with the quality of the video, how much everything is told in the smallest details. Friend, thank you for such an incredibly interesting video, I'm glad I found your channel, I will definitely follow your activities in the future, and you also have a cool voice!)
I recently made the decision to start looking into a rig and I (like everyone else) am SO GLAD I found Barry and the SRG. I just wanna shake this guy's hand, sip my coffee, and politely ask him to keep talking. Lol
Words cannot express the great work this gentleman is doing.
This is my first experience with a kit like this and I feel like I have been using it for all my life after this video! Absolutely fantastic! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this!
My gut is still telling me to look for at T300 RS or GT and enjoy the stronger torque and simpler electronics. Plus being able to switch wheels on the T300 could be a great for those that want a F1 or GT3 style wheel as a future upgrade.
T300rs is a great wheel, they have a Sparco 383 wheel that really shines,
I’d save a bit more for a CSL DD. Having tried the GT DD Pro, I gotta say it’s night and day compared to my old T150. Never owned a T300 tho, tried it once at a local Microsoft store a few years ago.
@@bowentian2485 Sadly you are very correct. I am limited to using my home office desk and I know it would shake apart in a few days wifh the CSL DD. LOL. I Can save the extra $300 and somehow use that to upgrade a wheel for a T300 and a better set of brake pedals..
First World Problems.
Life is good... Cheers.
You can also run these new pedals with the t300 like I am. I’m running mine inverted. Check my channel to see. The t300 with t3pm is the best of both worlds IMO..👌🏼
@@ysiadpir1423 I see your point. Tbh I think getting a wheel stand and a load cell brake would be much more important than the wheel base itself or the steering wheel. It’ll give you so much more confidence and consistency. If you had to choose between the two, I’d recommend a decent wheel stand with pedal mount over a set of pedals.
Got a model open box without the power supply, you showed enough of it to answer a lot of questions I had. Thank you so much.
Now that's what I call a thorough review. Nice job.
Thankyou so much! After an accidental drop, the left paddle shifter wasnt working. I assumed that something had become disconnected and was frightened to open up everything. This helped an immense amount!
I bought mine 3 days ago, much better than g25 i had, pedals are the biggest difference.
Tried g29 before buying this and so far no regrets.
G29 looks better and has full leather on wheel and thats about only thing its doing better than t248 in my opinion.
Never tried load cell pedal but these feel very nice and brake pedal out of box is pretty sweet.
I was considering buying t300rs gt or ferrari integral but there were only couple of used units few years old and people asked about 400$ for them, and to order new i had to wait for few weeks and packages cost 100-150$ more than t248 which was available right away and t248 has new pedals which i would have bought eventually.
Only real drawback for me is kinda slow turning and re centering. If you go rally or drift you can feel it, every other discipline its not noticable.
Feels plastic but once you start racing doesnt matter anymore, shifters are very fast but kinda noisy.
In person looks better than pictures and videos.
Tried it in gt sport and f1 2017 on ps5 so far (will try dirt rally and drive club) and everything feels spot on after tweking for a minute in game settings.
F1 recongnizes it as t300 and gt sport as t-gt.
Overall im satisfied and i like this thing, at this price range only thing i could have bought new is g923 which cost 40$ more and has worse pedals and is pretty much the same as g25/27 on the inside from what i could find online.
Hope this helps anyone.
I het mine tomorrow. Combined with the playseat chellange. Hope i like IT!
@@cleverdog4 i paired it as well with challenge, nice and compact
still enjoying it ?? struggling, looking at the g29, t48, or the fanatec gt setup. rig location would have to be movable, ps4 pro, and a pc. heck I haven't used a ffb wheel in like 20 years since the Microsoft wheel, lol .... got gt7 the other day, and sparked interest.
If you have extra cash around go fanatec for sure, playseat challenge and t248 so far so good. Only for rally bit meh otherwise really good wheel and pedals combo
@@sekeli69 went t248 and gt lite, returned both, got the gt omega titan and a 8nm gt DD pro setup, and got my hands on a ps5 too, had a ps4 pro and still have a pc
Now that is a detailed no nonsense review!
Amazon has the T248 right now for $325 and the T248X (xbox edition) currently for $300. Much better for these prices. And remember the pedals normally cost $129 and are magnetic sensors instead of pots.
I’m new to sim racing and wheels I borrowed a g923 for about a month and decided on this instead. This is certainly more powerful that the Logitech. I did however get this set for 260$. So far it has done everything I have asked of it. The pedals seem pretty solid as well
I bought the T248 in China for about $210 and it has a better experience than the G29
Thanks for sharing, you are doing an awesome job for sim community 👍
I would pick this any day of the week over a T300.. Had 3 T300's go bad and I know plenty of others with poor experiences regarding the T300. Probably easily the most RMA'ed wheel on the market period, feels good when it works but man it has alot of problems. Don't get a T300 if you don't want a high risk of RMA down the road. Logitech wheels, T150 and by the looks of it, this are much more durable.
There's a damn good reason that every single Thrustmaster wheel starting from the T248 onwards has had an EXTERNAL power supply brick from a 3rd party manufacturer rather than the in-house designed internal PSU's found in the T300 & similar (inc. the T150/TMX, although bc they pull MUCH less power, they fail a lot less). 🤷
If a T248 or T128's PSU dies all you need to do is have Thrustmaster send you (or buy if not under warranty) a new power supply brick for that specific model, NOT replace the entire wheelbase T300 style! And being designed/manufactured by companies who ONLY make power supplies, they tend to be more reliable in general.
love these new pedals. using mine with my t300, best of both worlds. geat pedals!
I JUST ORDERED ONE!
This guy knows his stuff.
This is like going to your mates and sitting with him for 3 hours talking about his wheel or buy one and find an explanation for the girl at the counter why you're bringing it back.
The display is very helpful and a great wheel.
Due to the small motor, the gears are used to Multiply torque. So the steering shaft outputs higher torque than the motor shaft.
Also, a quick release mount should be at this price point.
What if you paid half for it?...
I love this wheel but make sure you keep an eye on temps on the display. Its there for a reason
Very detailed video, the best I've seen so far for this product. I'm considering buying this wheel and this video was the most helpful. Thank you for such indeep review :)
Thanks for all videos you share with us, it's really interesting to see the wheels inside. Actually I have T300RS with T3PA and work good since more than 3 or 4 years, and I would like to replace it with T248. Thanks again.
I am sure it would not make sense to replace a T300 with a T248. I think, you would be much better off by simply replacing the T3PA with T-LCM loadcell pedals which are by far better than the pedals included with T248 and T300RS. Add the "open wheel" rim and you are at the same price for both and get 3 times the value of an T248. : )
@@jorn-jorenjorenson5028 Thanks for your suggestion. I don't need the open wheel because I already have the F1 add on that I use only for F1 games. My T300 has 4 year and half of life, " is tired" that's the reason of change. Of course the pedals set T-LCM is interesting, I am waiting for GT7 on March to choice my new toy. Have a nice one.
@@antonpaco Ok, I understand. I can really recommend upgrading the pedals. I went from T3PA to T-LCM and it made a huge difference in braking and also throttle control (braking felt very strange at first, takes a few days to get used to loadcells...)
Of course it is all subjective and I haven't tried the T248, but I owned the T150 at first, which uses the same belt and cogs principle. Surely the T248 has improved, but I would assume you still feel the cogs. Because of that "cogginess" with the T150 I always felt I have some mechanical device in my hands that simulates driving. In contrast, with the smoothness of the T300 I forget it is a FFB wheel and get immersed into the driving. So make sure you won't miss the smoothness of the T300 before you buy a T248.
Anyway, most important is to enjoy simracing, no matter what equipment. : ) Cheers!
@@jorn-jorenjorenson5028 Agree, important is enjoy simracing. I have two question for you about T-LCM pedals. 1) Did you move/change the brake default spring? 2) did you need upgrade any sw by pc?
Thanks in advance.
@@antonpaco Yes, I use the 2 red springs (the hardest ones) and the washers inbetween (that means the soft spring inbetween is deactivated = no soft travel before it gets harder). But I have it calibrated so that I don't have to press too hard for 100% brakes. This way I have very little movement in the pedal. Feels strange at first, but works perfectly now for me. Way better control over the brakes after a week or so.
I installed the T-LCM drivers and calibration software, I think I also had to do a firmware update (not sure tbh). And then assign it in my racing sims (Raceroom and AMS2). Worked immediately, no isues so far. : )
This dudes the Bob Ross of sim racing reviews. That voice man. I'm straight but I can appreciate.
brake spring extraction:
1. push brake pedal to compress spring
2. grab the bottom piece of the compressed spring
3. lift the brake and follow with the still compressed spring to take it out.
4. release tension
no pribar rocket science needed;)
I did miss you testing the different profiles of force feedback and giving your opinion!
i have this wheel and absolutely love it honestly, i was on back order for the t3oo for months and cancelled to get this
You should get a t300 💀🗿
I bought it and I think it's a very cool tool. TC, brake bias, ABS, TURBO. I drive in VR and it is very good that go down to P1 if you press button down. You only have to count. 😂
What do the encoders do? Or the p1 buttons
"Ofcourse when i race it doesn't matter, the louder, the better" Who knew Barry would also be a Poet :)
Thank you, Barry!
The master at work!
What a complete review ! Thanks !
Needed this disassembly, thanks! My belt/gear system falls in and out of mesh, goes from feeling real good, to feeling every tooth of that gear as you turn the wheel.
I have the same problem how did you solve it ?
@@Camola111I wasn't able to fix it, the hybrid mechanism consists of the motor turning a pulley which drives the belt to a slightly larger pulley under the position sensor. that pulley has a gear on the center which directly engages the large main gear. there is no direct link between the gears without going through that belt, could be a defective motor or something im guessing.
@@paperchasethereal8864 i just open it , and yes also with wd40 still not fixed. What we are suposed to do ?
How is it possible that he hasn't done a CSL DD review yet?
I have been asking myself this for months 🙃
very cool wheel, shouldn't be as expensive as it is though, should be 250 max
Its current $300 price over the past ≈6-12ish months or so is plenty fair. And the ≈$260 sale price that happens every once in a long while is absolutely fucking INSANE value. A regular street price of $250 though with the current market would make every other wheel under $400 completely irrelevant to an legitimately unhealthy level. 🤷 It'd be unbelievably AWESOME for consumers but ridiculously bad for everyone else.
@@Cooe. I also just got a deal for about 230 USD, so it's probably a good deal. I definitely wouldn't have paid more than like 300 USD I suppose. - Thrustmaster asks 350 EUR in... well, Europe, which amounts to... more in USD.
Great review and thank you for just talking about it without saying it's junk because it's more of a car wheel then a super car wheel.. just picked this up for 299 dollars and can't wait to start driving, mostly ATS ETS farm sim and I guess I'm gonna start looking at racing games now.. I'm glad I found your channel and like how you deep dive into the products with facts and not brand loyalty.
I am just wondering where did you pick it up? Cause i only find them for 399
I’ve always fall asleep during the ‘look inside’ bit - even loud shifters couldn’t stir me.
Barry got the radio voice
Thanks! But many of us are waiting when Thrustmaster will reveal thei first DD wheelbase. 2021 is ending, they promised to revel it in the 2021
Finaly!! Thank you!! :)
Got a new sub from me great review with much details, helped me learn new things on the T248 wheel thanks.
Mine bit me when I put the black spring back in! Damn it hurt... Worth It!
Thanks for the great review!
My T248 arrived this week my only concern is the loud paddle shifters, they feel great but friggen loud. I'm setup just outside our bedroom so I'm sensitive to the amount of noise I make when racing at night. I was not able to figure out how to "quickly" (and not void the warranty) disassemble the steering wheel to get at the shifter contacts. Was wishing you had done that :-) I've created some shims that I've inserted between the back of the paddles and wheel base to dampen the sound. Used some gorilla tape tacked to a postit and then cut it into strips for shimming. I'd say it cuts the noise down by half, which works for me. I would have loved to get in there and devise a more permanent solution.
Could you make a video on how to do this? Got the same problem as you.
Buy the shifter I did so I don’t have that loud clicking
The shifter is absolutely essential
@@nomxrcy3327There's actually a super cheap and MUCH easier solution. Get some mechanical keyboard dampener O-rings or like tiny rubber bands like those used for dental braces. Then shove one of them halfway (so you can can easily get them back out if needed) into the middle of the gap made when each paddle is held fully open between it and its normal resting position using a pen-tip or something similar. Need more dampening? Add more rubber bands. 🤷
easiest way on tlcm (and these it seems) to remove that brake spring is put an empty bit socket screwdriver on top of the spring pole , it goes around and u can push down nicely
For someone who is just starting would recommend the T128 or the T248? In New Zealand they are just 100nzd apart. That is 300 and 400 nzd respectively
The only thing I wanna ask right now... Where is the CSL DD review? Barry was supposed to get the early pre-production version but decided to wait for the full production version to get it all apart, and still to this day there's no review...
Im probably wrong but idk if fanatec wants someone looking inside.
@@HowsYourFaceFeel if he buys one with is own money they cant stop him, maybe he just didn't receive his yet.. like many of us
@@HowsYourFaceFeel yeah if I buy one for myself I can do whatever I want with it, including taking it apart, its not like the competition hasn't disassembled it and learned from it already...
@@deeze67 but can you film it
The Bob Ross of disassembly 😁
the t300rs kept being out of stock in my area. i decided to get these because they had a usd80-90 discount making it almost similarly priced to a g29. I can say that I had almost no regrets (apart from not being able to swap wheels).
Deciding between both now. Only thing I get for difference is feedback. To it’s just stronger is all and epople Liek that?
I’m looking more for things like motion accuracy, accessibility and quality of parts.
If it’s missing leather oh well nor a big deal or if one kicks harder not a big deal. I get the more kickback the real it feels but I know it’s tou and that extra strength won’t add realism.
I want what’s fun and less frustrating.
@@icemana51 can't say about the FFB feel, though. Its good if its strong because you can turn it down in the settings. I don't have a comparison with other wheels, atm.
Main difference is TM uses hall sensors on both wheel and pedal. Meaning its accurate and longer lasting than potentiometers. The pedals on the T-248 feels great without much modding.
@@consume_vegetables I appreciate the comment. Like I said all I saw was oh one is a much bigger gun. Well does it shoot straight cause if not I dont care lol
@@icemana51 the general perception is belts are great feeling but can lag at times. gears are quite strong but they are very notchy and grindy. i don't know about hybrids but they do feel less laggy but the grindy feel is there (slightly). People would advice getting a direct drive if accuracy is what you are looking for.
I can't compare between t300rs, g29, t248 because I never tried them for long (store show models only) but I'd get DD if I have the money.
@@consume_vegetables I’m really good at sims on controller and with Gt 7 out my dad watched me. Thought it was awesome but was like I need a real wheel. So anyway I have some cars made with his business logo, essentially like we made a race team with all the businesses we worked with and companies we use to maintain our equipment. Loved it so much he wants to play. So that why I want to get a wheel. He may not oaky again but then again it has to be good for him to even like it in the firto place. Then to see if I even like a wheel. But don’t want shit to just hate it right away.
Ordered the g29. As soon as I left purchase it gave me a promotion on the t-248 for the exact same price. So I ahve both from Amazon. Wanted to open the nest of the 2 so I Don’t have a return issue with it.
My T248 worked great for 6 months. Then upshift paddle broke. That works out to just under $100 per month after tax. ($499.00 + in Canada) The epoxy is curing as I type, hope it works. Using plastic as a lever may not be the best plan.
Warranty should be longer or the store you purchased from sucks. - I mean, where I have ordered, I have a 2 year warranty. - But then also, I only paid like 230 USD for the set.
Nice review. The 24 and 25 button would be the left and right turn of the steering wheel so in other words turning it left is 24 turning it right is 25 so they counted it as the left and right joystick so without the 24 and 25 you wouldn't be able to turn lol
Have you ever considered assigning SRG aggregate scores for considerations across products grouped by class/category eg pedal boxes, wheel base, DD? I keep a running tally in my head so to speak about your comments on different entry level kits, hybrid etc but a proper, tangible scorecard with historical reviews & placements would be epic. N of 1 here but from what I know of the community, your word is bond so I’m certain this would be popular. Happy to help with the graphic if you sent me over your list of grades if that’s what it took you to have atleast a draft in place so you can keep focusing on reviewing. Ignore this unsolicited comment if you’ve considered all this before and I missed it/ you already have it.
No, Barry has stated time and time again that he will not be comparing products, his reviews are standalone. People suggest this once every other video and he's gotten tired of shooting them down, only thing he will compare is the quality of the product to the price of said product. Go look at the mission statement of this channel on his website, he wants to help people make informed decisions by giving them the information that's available to him at the moment of the reviews, what he's not out here to do is to tell people what to purchase on a set of criteria that may be important to him but not to the customer. Just think of how many times you can think of Barry saying "now this is what's important to me and is entirely subjective as I know that there's no right answers, only thing that matters are your opinions and tastes". For example some people such as myself may only buy button plates that have Funky-Switches while others couldn't care less about this since race cars don't come with those. Would it be fair to you to give scores set against this when the aim of a product may be simulation and immersion instead of functionality?
(I think that this goes directly against the concept of an aggregate score.)
Sim racing products rarely ever share identical price Brackets. Go take a look at what the immediate and direct competitor to the CSL DD, Fanatec V3s, Logitech G923, Simagic Mini, VRS DFP, hell even this wheel reviewed today as its closest competitors are over 15% price difference away (unless it's the product it's directly replacing). These companies carefully research where they should place their products would have the least amount of competition at it's price point since sim racing is still too niche of an interest before you're able to do things like this.
The moment Barry starts to arbitrarily compare products like this is the day that companies stop purchasing Barry's services. Think about just how much the DD landscape has changed in the last year alone, prices have been almost cut by 1/4, the older products would get absolutely demolished in aggregate scores because they're going up against simple economics of scale and the inevitable progress of technology. (It used to be unimaginable that you could find a DD with a servo motor for under $1000, now we got multiple).
Also bro, when u gonna make new vids again? Been like 10 months, don't hold out on me!
@@DavidGarcia-oi5nt thanks for the nuance! I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the logic in so far as you stated in your comment is counter to objective, categoric scoring by its very statistical definition. It’s meant to mitigate those issues- that’s why institutions pursue similar things on a regular basis. at a statistical level, categoric scoring is a means of delivering a more colored view of products and significantly benefits a consumer’s decision making. Ironically it’s directly in line with helping the consumer.
Your point is valid about comparing apples and oranges but it quite literally is the opposite of what I said and was clear about defining that. Ive heard him, very helpfully I’ll add, compare products anecdotally offhand within his reviews numerous times. That’s actually what sparked my comment which is why I bet he keeps getting asked from others too. This is already achieving the request. I’ve read the statement and don’t see how comparing like products is counter to that. In fact, I would trust Barry over anyone to appropriately define a category to fairly weigh attributes of products allowed to be compared. A neutral party can do this. As per the mission, these are not bought reviews. Thus, he’d be within his rights to deliver objective tiered scoring as no third party would influence outcomes. It’s why rankings exists at stalwarts of industry that provide a service of comparable like inputs. Trust me not all of these places are just spark wrong. If THAT many people are requesting it, that should say something about what ppl are looking for.
But again, this is not my channel & just bc ppl want things does not mean you should do it. I’m not commenting on his decision as frankly he doesn’t have to justify himself for a second and he can do as he sees fit. That’s a perfectly acceptable answer, always. I’m simply responding to reciprocate your energy as you didn’t have to be considerate & take the time to explain all that but I can appreciate time is valuable so it’s very interesting insight and is an opportunity in the sim marketplace. If he doesn’t want to do it, trust me I see why. But as always I’ll defend the stats - your saying it’s unfair to other products is ignoring how it works atleast in a pure statistical sense.
As for me, we’ll I’ve been building a fully immersive sim set up so I’ve dedicated all focus to lining up every component with all partners in hardware & software to give back the best experience possible which has been a logistical nightmare but will be highly fruitful for sim racing in general bringing ppl to the market. I’ll explain more on my channel soon but it’ll make sense.
Sir please tell me
which one should I buy Logitech G923 or T248 for my nephew ?
best channel ever my dude!
Thank you Barry!
Good morning, 2 years later does the steering wheel still work? I have the same one, but the FFB no longer works, I'm trying to maintain it.
Great review. Thank you. 👏🏻👍🏻
Thanks for this Video.Greetings from Germany 🤗
I wonder about the hori dlx force feedback wheel
Would like to see a good video on that as well.
I found that you can easily make the shifters pretty much silent by simply putting some rubber bands behind them
Gran. vídeo, distinto a lo que se suele ver y con el nivel de detalle justo y necesario para que todo se entienda bien
please help me , i just got this t248 product in india and there is no service center here .. the buttons and display on the wheel do not work , can you help me to fix the wheel myself please?
Can you provide any info on where to buy the magnetic sensor board replacement for the pedals?
What is the conclusion, t300rs GT or t248?
Features and better cooling/reliability -> T248
Better FFB, smoothness, strength, quietness, wheel swap, and immersion -> T300
Ahh so you are the AVE guy of video game consoles 😃! Nice nice! The same guy I mentioned reviews tools like you do!
i wish you can dismantle the shifter pedal. because i notice the solution for the loud clicking shifter sound is by placing some cushion between the pedal and the casing. i try slot in some tissue and the clicking sound gone. if we can access the pedal shifter i believe we can eliminate the clicking sound eternally.
Brilliant…thanks !!!
I bought the t248, however the left paddle seems doesnt have the safe feel as the right paddle shifters. I am talking about the paddle shifters and not paddle. Is this by design or did I get a defective piece. Is the left paddle different from the right paddle?
Should I keep it or get a refund.
Thanks man I got mine today
So ?? 🙂
I have a t500 and a ps5 what wheel can I buy and not be disappointed with its performance the cheaper the better
finally i see what the e is for, button presets
How easy do you think it will be to modify the shifter to dampen the noise? Ideas on how to go about it.
There is an electrical tape mod to dampen noise on the shifters up on UA-cam.
I haven't seen this wheel in person, just this video, but my initial complaint is the aesthetics. I'm afraid that combo of some leathery material on the outer half of a plastic wheel would feel cheap.
Design-wise it seems to follow the more bloated designs of modern car wheels. I prefer simple, open 3 spoke wheels like older sports cars typically used.
The cars I most want to sim are from the 1970s-90s. Datsuns, Chevys, Pontiacs, my mom's station wagon, even some Ferraris or Lambos of the period, but not modern cars.
Based on photos I much prefer the wheel on the T300 RS GT for that reason. It's a good wheel shape - though it has some small warts to hold the "L2/R2/etc/etc" buttons, which I'd rather have on the base (to act more like a dashboard). But it looks good still.
In spite of my preference for an older, sportier style of wheel - I do think the T248's text display is interesting. That might be cool - if the programming interface for it is open and simple enough to get widespread game support.
Lots of buttons on this wheel but I'm a little perturbed by what appear to be unnecessary limitations on how they can be used.
Those switchable buttons (E-1, E-2, E-3, E-4) are a fine idea, but it would be much better done in software instead of in the wheel itself.
When playing a game like Truck Simulator, I would want to use the left rocker switch for turn signals, for example, and maybe also for looking left/right. But that's not possible because the "Up" movement is reserved as the switch for that "encoder" system. It's a shame that such a handy toggle switch, directly by your left thumb, is effectively useless because Thrustmaster reserved it.
If it were up to me, I'd rather use one of the less prominent buttons, perhaps even on an entirely separate controller, to control this "page flipping" of functions for several different other buttons on the wheel, and I wouldn't necessarily only want to flip the 3 buttons that Thrustmaster chose.
This switching functionality could be done with much greater flexibility in 3rd party software. The same software could also send text messages to the LCD with a user friendly name of what "page" of functions you're activating (instead of a generic name like "E-2").
Unfortunately, because Thrustmaster built a very limited switching feature into the wheel's firmware, they had to block out arbitrarily chosen buttons for it which hinders the ability to use those buttons differently than what Thrustmaster decided. The loss of direct functionality of that left rocker switch is especially tragic in my opinion.
But before I jump off a bridge, I should consider the possibility that this whole "switching" feature in the firmware can be disabled, making all those toggle switches direct mapped so software can manage them without interference. I hope so.
Those other 2 buttons "Mode" and "Display" could have been mapped as controller buttons also, if they just required holding in for a couple seconds to trigger the firmware menu.
In Truck Sim, I'd love to be able to quickly tap the "Display" button to toggle the in-game dashboard - and have that even get relayed to the wheel's LCD.
Any hope of a review of the CSL DD (or the PS5 version)? It needs the SRG treatment!
I don't think this is worth $400... they should've just kept their TX and T300 in production
Bet they make it for 50 bucks, with all the cheap plastic they used. 🙄
wait discontinued the t 300 for this. if that's true its going to suck for value sim drifters as the t300 was the go to. for drifting hybrid drives suck because its literally double the resistance.
What is the extra set of wires heating into the motor? The thinner set of 2.
Any chance on getting the TG-T II? I'm actually getting mine this coming week along with the Gran Turismo DD Pro. Probably going to do a comparison. Your videos are always top notch man. I'd like to get into PC gaming more often but trying to build a good rig is super expensive atm.
how did you find the gt dd pro ?? testing the t248, and debating returning and getting the dd pro
@@JoelSc14 I got it 3 months ago when it first came out early edition I haven't tried it on GT7 yet because I'm working, and playing Elden Ring and testing the T-GT II but I'm going to be honest I like the T-GT II a lot
I just bought one of these; not yet delivered.
Will you review the SF1000?
Is the white sticker the warranty one?
But... are the shifters loud?
@@brulaapgaapmeester8052 🤣
They're pretty dang loud I play with a friend in game chat and it sounds like he's doing something else as he shifts frantically 🤣
Detail 👌🏾
good afternoon I have a GT II, can you tell me what the IC code is next to the MCC42A diode? it's the small board where the 1ue colored cables come in and powered with 24v, can you help me?
It is possible to modify the rim? Like the others T Series from Thrustmaster?
Hello, wondering if there is anything I can do if the magnetic gear shift plate has no bounce back force?
Quality information. Will there be any update on the review with the 2.0 firmware and the added force settings? Would like to know detailed information on the force settings and FFB combinations.
hey whats ur questions. i habe it and want to see how it comapres. i have all 3 wiht me. 300, g29, t248
Is it possible to silence those shifters? Modify it somehow, put some sponge between?
Hi, great video, just bought one of these for my PS5. I dont understand what the Rotation Degree is for? If its set to 270 and then 900 what is the difference please?
How far the wheel can turn before it stops
Or really:
Total degrees/2= how many degrees left or right it takes to get the in game tires to fully rotate left or right.
270/2=135 or the rotation indicator at the top of the wheel at 12 o'clock will indicate fully left turn lock when the indicator is at full left then another quarter turn. Just the opposite for full right lock.
900 degrees means 900/2=450 degrees of rotation left or right to fully rotate tire. There are 360 degrees in a full circle, so 450 degrees means you will have to rotate the wheel 1 whole rotation and then another 90 degrees or 1.25 total rotations to go full left. Another 1.25 rotations to go full right for a total of 2.5 total rotations from full left to full right.(900 degrees)
How long do the M6 screws need to be to mount on my Gt lite instead of using the plastic clamp with the long screw?
Hey Barry. Have you heard anything about the T-GT II having failures? I bought one the other week and there was a calibration fault right out of the box, then today i get a replacement and the transducer was going haywire as soon as i get on track with it. Not sure if it's worth another replacement or just get a refund. Thanks
When’s the csl dd getting some looking at then
1:10:05 Tight clamps? You know that with the heat, those clamps will come to loose and sooner or later some mechanics will break! And not that they give it to you as a gift. Absolutely better than the Logitech g29/923
Bonsoir, la pedale de frein de mon pedalier tlcm ne fonstionne plus. elle reste bloquee sur la force 255 sur le programme de calibration. Savez vous de quoi cela peut provenir? Merci et bonne journee.
Would the feedback on this wheel be the same as on a Thrustmaster t500?
Less strength
I have a bit of an odd request. Would it be possible for you to rank the wheels you have tested in order? or on a scale from 1-10? Im trying to figure out what the best entry to mid level steering wheel would be. Especially since the prices are so high right now, I want to make sure I am getting something higher quality. But I dont want to spend thousands of dollars on an entire setup
There is not a lot of options, this thrustmaster, or tmx pro, or logitech g920, 29, 23
Hi. Why there is no CSL DD review on your videos? :)
Just come across this review excellent thank you
Noticed you are still running the simtrec pedals, I’m about to buy them I guess durability gets a positive check from you??
Will You take a look at the Thrustmaster SF1000?
In your opinion, which wheel kit is better? The Thrustmaster T248 or the T300 RS GT Edition?
T300 is better ( not much.... ).... but T300 sometimes has big problems .
some have gone the opposite way....
If my rubber feet on my wheel are gone is there some where I can get more
Hello can you help me please !! .
I have a laptop with a 3.0 driver windows 8.1 . My wheel t 300 is not reading it correctly . How can i use a 2.0 usb driver ,should i buy an external drive