This is exactly what I need. Every time I pull out the dryer to clean the floor under it, the vent hose falls off. I’m definitely putting this on my projects to do list! Thanks. 😊
You might add if your running an all new vent put the hole about 3 feet up from the floor, just below the height of the main top it doesn't need to be centered, it can now be easily unhooked and reinstalled in seconds, no mesing around with trying to reach down or align it , or plug it onto the dryer , just tip it forward install on dryer, let it down and easily install through wall ,done
Another tip not mentioned here, if you love your home family & pets, only use the rigid or semi-rigid duct pipe NEVER EVER use that cheap "tin foil" stuff you find at Lowes or home depot and sadly what many contractors use on long vent runs because it's cheaper than rigid ! Make sure you don't already have it run through your attic if your dryer vents through the roof or eaves ! If your dryer element catches on fire, your duct will act as a chimney pulling the flames into it like a flamethrower , I have personally witnessed this ! The cheap foil will catch alight , burn & burst apart spreading the fire quicker than you can react ! If you currently have that stuff GET RID OF IT and replumb with rigid or semi rigid ! And NEVER EVER run a dryer while you are asleep or away from home ! It is also good practice to post a Co2 fire extinguisher close to the dryer location. Thousands of homes are lost each year to clothes dryer fires and even worst, some lives .
If you only knew the absurd amount of these I’ve bought….the 90deg. elbow…that was my next attempt……afraid of burning my house down. Good video. Thanks☺️
Thank you for this! Our electric bill was getting crazy, so I looked around for a cause and discovered that the dryer hose has split where it meets the wall Given that someone commented that plastic might lead to a spreading dryer vent fire, is there a similar configuration in metal that you can recommend? I know nothing about this kind of thing, so thank you again for keeping the video simple and attaching the links for your recommendations.
I was looking into the Offset dryer vent kits/ Periscope dryer vent but it looks like you can't slide your dryer out easily when you want to clean behind it (retrieve stuff) without unhooking everything. What a drag. This hose seems more practical. I just want to back the darn thing up to the wall but the holes don't quite meet. Uhg.
I came to the same conclusion that this hose is a good solution for problems like yours. Good luck and let me know how you like it after you install it. Thanks!
NEVER USE THE FIRST FLEX FOIL U SHOWED AS IT BURNS LIKE PAPER, NOT SAFE IF THERE IS A VENT FIRE. ALSO ONLY USE METAL 90° TURN , PLASTIC ALSO CAN MELT & BURN . USE ALL METAL SYSTEM. IF THERE IS A VENT FIRE IT WILL BURN OUT. NOT SPREAD TO INSIDE HOUSE CATCHING IT ON FIRE.
Great vid presentation. My plan I woke up with this morning was to use a 4” dia PVC pipe I already have. Utilizing various 90 deg. Elbows etc. When I opted to check to see if PVC was an “AHA” or an “O shit!” I thankfully did explore this. The issue of accumulated condensation was first realization of “makes sense”. The static problem was the second thing that hadn’t occurred. Your offering was immensely helpful. I have the crushed pipe as well as an 8’ rise to deal with. I was hoping the exterior vent flap door was linked from your video since Home Depot only had the same crappy flappers type that retain more garbage than they release. Thanks again!
Thank u. I rent & mice ruined the flex that was there. I've seen on homes while driving, PCV pipe coming out for clothes dryer. Worried about heat? I use solid aluminum pipe coming out of dryer & using PVC going thru floor/wall. Works like a charm for 10yrs now. 👍
I have this set up and the problem I have with this product is that the dryer sticks out too far from the wall. I've been looking for a product that works for great airflow AND the dryer can go back against the wall. So far, Dryerbox is what I'm looking for. Crossing my fingers!
I got the semi-flexible vent hose and guy said i shld have gotten flexible. Problem is going into the wall, i think i need this here thing in outside and inside. The pipe in inside to the outside vent is broken off at the bottom, so its hard to get the hose part to stay on it, i use alot of foil and duct tape. The zip ties for this dont stay on, will get some metal camps and maybe a 90 deg close metal elbow?
We have the typical 3 louvre flap vent and it's old, stiff and the top flap stays up and open most of the time. My dryer is super cold, and just on the other side of an outside wall, that gets Canadian north/west winds (and subzero half the year). The spouse got another just like it, thankfully not installed yet. I'm thinking I need either a vent cap, over it, that points down and keeps the wind out better, or something more like this for the outside cap and flap. We don't have the same issue inside or w/ the hose.
Those hard round metal hoses are a pain because it makes it hard to get the dryer pushed back against the wall especially with the plastic ends / corners. I’ve got a metal periscope style that works amazing and I like it much much better.
Everything looks great man but wont the 180 degree loop create a lint trap? I am a plumbing professional and not a HVAC expert so I am just trying to learn.
The way I look at it, most dryer vent routes have multiple 90 elbows. The 180 is like two of those, and it is much better than the pinched or crushed hose I had before.
You are correct. Do not install like this. Just use the alum 90 degree elbow vents not plastic. Don’t use the vinyl flex tube like this guy did. Just measure and buy the proper rigid alum vents. Alum tape to install. For exterior, you probably already know that caulk alone is not a good idea. This video is an example of very bad installation.
@@STV-H4H it's better to 'use the alum 90 degree elbow vents' instead of what OP did, and for the exterior you need to screw the cover into the outside wall in addition to caulking.
Or you can do what I did and put 2- 90 degree elbows and a piece of wood between the wall and dryer foot so the dryer can't be pushed back. No crushed pipe!
it looks nice, but PVC should NOT be used for a dryer vent. Static electricity builds up and it will become a lint magnet. Also, high temps from the dryer exhaust can potentially melt the plastic. A dryer vent should always be solid 4" metal, either aluminum or galvanized. You should consider using a MagVent transition system
Looks like a good product. I looked on Amazon at these products and I'm a bit confused...does the internal wall plate come with the P-Tech dryer vent cap kit OR does it come with the Lambro vent kit OR do I have to purchase it separately? I don't see the wall plate listed with either the Lambro or P-Tech kits.
Good question. The wall plate comes with the Lambro vent. The lambro elbow is made to fit snuggly in the plate and not come out accidentally. The P-Tech vent cap only comes with a short piece of aluminum to push through your wall to connect to your existing vent. I hope this helps!
Just got a new drier and metal elbow will NOT just slide on like it is supposed to do ! Seems they now make the 4 inch on drier exactly same size as the elbow 4 inch !
I made a one inch cut in the pipe coming out of my wall. This little cut made it crimp itself when fitting the two ---just enough to allow the connection.
If you could run any of it with hard pipe, I would do that and just use the flex for the necessary areas. If you need flex the whole way, then get a few of these and splice together using a short piece of hard pipe as couplings.
well you should never have plastic on your dryer vent and the efficiency of a dryer is the vent so the shortest straightest and smoothest vent will let the moisture out the fastest so the faster the clothes will dry and always leave 4 to 6 inches behind your dryer because it takes air in the back above where it exhausts and if your dryer is in a small room leave the door open when running the dryer you should always uninstall your washer if you can't get behind the dryer and position the dryer where you need to keep it everyday then visually inspect or measure for the right vent and the right vent is 4 inch aluminum they make elbows and straight pieces at the hardware store but no flexible duct or hose should ever be on a dryer especially a gas dryer because gas is combustible I know this first hand from my house and the almost fire i had. and there are 250,000 dryer fires every year in north America on average
Looks good. Two notes. I'm not happy about using silicone rubber for this application. I think it could be a fire hazard unless the type you're using is rated for this type of an application. Always use things that are rated for what you're doing. It's a lot safer that way. I've had great luck simply screwing that in and not sealing it. I haven't run into a pro that sealed it. You don't need to be spiderman. Just pull your washer out. Connect it, then move your washer back. Unless you like to wear the spiderman outfit.
That corrugated pipe is crap. Lint will stick to everything all along the pipe. Use smooth vent pipe, the lint will for the most part just blow on through instead of getting stuck on each and every ridge on the corrugated junk.
Dryer vents and the dryer it self should at a minimum be cleaned annually . If the unit is used more than average, the vent and dryer should be cleaned more often. In a perfect world and when ever possible, a ridged vent is best, but as long as proper maintenance is done the flexible aluminum duct will not be a problem. The ridged vent will at the very least require annual cleaning too.
This is awesome! I'm a 72 year old lady, and I did this by myself! Now I have extra room and my dryer is in alignment with my washer....
👏👏👏❤️
OMG!!! This is the solution I've needed for years!! So quick, easy and simple! I am so glad I watched your video. THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for the feedback! ❤️
This is exactly what I need. Every time I pull out the dryer to clean the floor under it, the vent hose falls off. I’m definitely putting this on my projects to do list! Thanks. 😊
This is very helpful for most jobs that had a previous washer already in place. Also if you are doing this alone.
Thanks for the feedback!
You might add if your running an all new vent put the hole about 3 feet up from the floor, just below the height of the main top it doesn't need to be centered, it can now be easily unhooked and reinstalled in seconds, no mesing around with trying to reach down or align it , or plug it onto the dryer , just tip it forward install on dryer, let it down and easily install through wall ,done
Another tip not mentioned here, if you love your home family & pets, only use the rigid or semi-rigid duct pipe NEVER EVER use that cheap "tin foil" stuff you find at Lowes or home depot and sadly what many contractors use on long vent runs because it's cheaper than rigid ! Make sure you don't already have it run through your attic if your dryer vents through the roof or eaves !
If your dryer element catches on fire, your duct will act as a chimney pulling the flames into it like a flamethrower , I have personally witnessed this ! The cheap foil will catch alight , burn & burst apart spreading the fire quicker than you can react !
If you currently have that stuff GET RID OF IT and replumb with rigid or semi rigid ! And NEVER EVER run a dryer while you are asleep or away from home ! It is also good practice to post a Co2 fire extinguisher close to the dryer location. Thousands of homes are lost each year to clothes dryer fires and even worst, some lives .
Good points!
Good advice. I had my dryer fixed recently & the technician pulled out a lot of BURNT lint.
Great advice! Thanks
Thank you so much for the tips not run the dryer when asleep or away
Great insight. Also, as a dryer technician myself, I will never install plastic adapters or elbows for customers. Plastic and heat don't mix!
*"THANK YOU!*"
Great video, I did not know about the plastic elbows & the double sealed outlet is great, too.
Now to try to find those things.
I put links in the video description for the parts. Good luck! 👍
Confirm a great product. I have it since ovr half a decade on my dryer, now also on the kitchen hood.... Perfect.
👍
If you only knew the absurd amount of these I’ve bought….the 90deg. elbow…that was my next attempt……afraid of burning my house down. Good video. Thanks☺️
Let me know how it goes!
Thank you for this! Our electric bill was getting crazy, so I looked around for a cause and discovered that the dryer hose has split where it meets the wall
Given that someone commented that plastic might lead to a spreading dryer vent fire, is there a similar configuration in metal that you can recommend?
I know nothing about this kind of thing, so thank you again for keeping the video simple and attaching the links for your recommendations.
This is one of two of the best dryer vent I’ve seen. I don’t like the common ones out there
I totally agree. Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you. You make things look so much easier.
Thank you!
Thanks for your help. Love your recommendation for using elbows so the hose doesn't get SMASHED..lol 🤣 going to try it this weekend.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Thanks much sir, the spotless. Leopard is a big hit.
I’m glad the spotless leopard is a big hit 😂
This the best. Thanks you for taking your time to do this. Love the jokes too.
Thanks for the feedback! 👍👍👍
I was looking into the Offset dryer vent kits/ Periscope dryer vent but it looks like you can't slide your dryer out easily when you want to clean behind it (retrieve stuff) without unhooking everything. What a drag.
This hose seems more practical.
I just want to back the darn thing up to the wall but the holes don't quite meet. Uhg.
I came to the same conclusion that this hose is a good solution for problems like yours. Good luck and let me know how you like it after you install it. Thanks!
Where’s the link to the hair dryer?
NEVER USE THE FIRST FLEX FOIL U SHOWED AS IT BURNS LIKE PAPER, NOT SAFE IF THERE IS A VENT FIRE. ALSO ONLY USE METAL 90° TURN , PLASTIC ALSO CAN MELT & BURN . USE ALL METAL SYSTEM. IF THERE IS A VENT FIRE IT WILL BURN OUT. NOT SPREAD TO INSIDE HOUSE CATCHING IT ON FIRE.
Thanks for the feedback!
So how do you move your dryer back in place after attaching?
WHY ARE WE YELLING?
My dryer is in middle of house, venting thru roof. Doesn't work obviously.. what would you recommend. Do not have funds to move to outside wall...
This was great! Exactly what I need. Thank you for sharing this with us!
Great! I’m so glad I could help! Thanks for the feedback!
I’ve got the same problem. I’ll check it out. Thanks!
Great vid presentation. My plan I woke up with this morning was to use a 4” dia PVC pipe I already have. Utilizing various 90 deg. Elbows etc.
When I opted to check to see if PVC was an “AHA” or an “O shit!” I thankfully did explore this.
The issue of accumulated condensation was first realization of “makes sense”. The static problem was the second thing that hadn’t occurred.
Your offering was immensely helpful.
I have the crushed pipe as well as an 8’ rise to deal with.
I was hoping the exterior vent flap door was linked from your video since Home Depot only had the same crappy flappers type that retain more garbage than they release.
Thanks again!
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback. Let me know how it goes! 👍
Thank u. I rent & mice ruined the flex that was there. I've seen on homes while driving, PCV pipe coming out for clothes dryer.
Worried about heat? I use solid aluminum pipe coming out of dryer & using PVC going thru floor/wall. Works like a charm for 10yrs now. 👍
Nice video. My question is who’s hair dryer?
My mom joke…what do they call a cow after she gives birth….decalfanated
😂👏👏👏
My wife liked it 😁👍
I have this set up and the problem I have with this product is that the dryer sticks out too far from the wall. I've been looking for a product that works for great airflow AND the dryer can go back against the wall. So far, Dryerbox is what I'm looking for. Crossing my fingers!
Let me know how it goes!
I got the semi-flexible vent hose and guy said i shld have gotten flexible. Problem is going into the wall, i think i need this here thing in outside and inside. The pipe in inside to the outside vent is broken off at the bottom, so its hard to get the hose part to stay on it, i use alot of foil and duct tape. The zip ties for this dont stay on, will get some metal camps and maybe a 90 deg close metal elbow?
We have the typical 3 louvre flap vent and it's old, stiff and the top flap stays up and open most of the time. My dryer is super cold, and just on the other side of an outside wall, that gets Canadian north/west winds (and subzero half the year). The spouse got another just like it, thankfully not installed yet. I'm thinking I need either a vent cap, over it, that points down and keeps the wind out better, or something more like this for the outside cap and flap. We don't have the same issue inside or w/ the hose.
Let me know how it works out! 👍
It’s a bad vent.
Those hard round metal hoses are a pain because it makes it hard to get the dryer pushed back against the wall especially with the plastic ends / corners. I’ve got a metal periscope style that works amazing and I like it much much better.
Will this work if the vent to outside is 4ft up the wall, not down at floor level??
Like and ❤ your teaching.
Thanks!
Everything looks great man but wont the 180 degree loop create a lint trap? I am a plumbing professional and not a HVAC expert so I am just trying to learn.
The way I look at it, most dryer vent routes have multiple 90 elbows. The 180 is like two of those, and it is much better than the pinched or crushed hose I had before.
@@MidAgedDad No, please don’t give advice if you don’t know for sure.
You are correct. Do not install like this. Just use the alum 90 degree elbow vents not plastic. Don’t use the vinyl flex tube like this guy did. Just measure and buy the proper rigid alum vents. Alum tape to install. For exterior, you probably already know that caulk alone is not a good idea.
This video is an example of very bad installation.
@@MegaJuniorJones sounds like you are a know it all, but not offering a better technique, just some words.
@@STV-H4H it's better to 'use the alum 90 degree elbow vents' instead of what OP did, and for the exterior you need to screw the cover into the outside wall in addition to caulking.
This is brilliant!
Thanks!
nice video but I'm not sure if the product will help me......mine is vented out through the roof......
Thanks for the feedback
😂😂😂😂😂I LOVE DAD JOKES😂😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤
👍❤️
Or you can do what I did and put 2- 90 degree elbows and a piece of wood between the wall and dryer foot so the dryer can't be pushed back. No crushed pipe!
just never use pvc for the vent tubing.
a static,
melting,
the lint tends to stick to pvc,
all fire problems.
Great video! Funny jokes!
Thank you!
What size are the pvc elbows
Not sure. They’re not normal PVC pipe elbows. They come with the kit.
PS I love the dad jokes!😂
Great video
Thank you!
Where can I buy this ? I’ve googled and couldn’t find. Is this First Flexfoil a brand?
Kirby, I have a link in the description of the video. I hope that helps!
it looks nice, but PVC should NOT be used for a dryer vent. Static electricity builds up and it will become a lint magnet. Also, high temps from the dryer exhaust can potentially melt the plastic. A dryer vent should always be solid 4" metal, either aluminum or galvanized. You should consider using a MagVent transition system
Looks like a good product. I looked on Amazon at these products and I'm a bit confused...does the internal wall plate come with the P-Tech dryer vent cap kit OR does it come with the Lambro vent kit OR do I have to purchase it separately? I don't see the wall plate listed with either the Lambro or P-Tech kits.
Good question. The wall plate comes with the Lambro vent. The lambro elbow is made to fit snuggly in the plate and not come out accidentally. The P-Tech vent cap only comes with a short piece of aluminum to push through your wall to connect to your existing vent. I hope this helps!
@@MidAgedDad Thanks for the quick reply and that helps...thanks
This makes sense.
I love the makeover in my house. Thanks for the feedback.
Just got a new drier and metal elbow will NOT just slide on like it is supposed to do ! Seems they now make the 4 inch on drier exactly same size as the elbow 4 inch !
Good luck
I made a one inch cut in the pipe coming out of my wall. This little cut made it crimp itself when fitting the two ---just enough to allow the connection.
Well done.
(& Great jokes!)
Thanks! And I like the chi rho! 👍
Hmmm. What if it's raining and the dryer is running?
When the flap door opens there's room for rain water to get in
The two flaps protect the opening pretty good and with the force of the air blowing out, I’ve never had a problem with rain. Good question, though.
Where did you get that outside vent?
Here’s a link: P-Tech dryer vent cap: amzn.to/3pMlOST
I met the guy who claimed he invented “0”! All I could think to say to him was “THANKS FOR NOTHING”!!
😂
Hi--what do I do if I need at least 12' length? The product looks amazing but only 5' long
If you could run any of it with hard pipe, I would do that and just use the flex for the necessary areas. If you need flex the whole way, then get a few of these and splice together using a short piece of hard pipe as couplings.
Like it.
Never put caulk at the bottom of the fixture, that is a drain for moisture to come out.
Thanks
I need a way to keep the flap inside the house open. Maybe I'll duct tape it open
That loop will let condensation form and lint to stick. Not the end of the world just expect to have to clean it out more often.
for good measure i would have used some duct tape some where
👍😂
well you should never have plastic on your dryer vent and the efficiency of a dryer is the vent so the shortest straightest and smoothest vent will let the moisture out the fastest so the faster the clothes will dry and always leave 4 to 6 inches behind your dryer because it takes air in the back above where it exhausts and if your dryer is in a small room leave the door open when running the dryer you should always uninstall your washer if you can't get behind the dryer and position the dryer where you need to keep it everyday then visually inspect or measure for the right vent and the right vent is 4 inch aluminum they make elbows and straight pieces at the hardware store but no flexible duct or hose should ever be on a dryer especially a gas dryer because gas is combustible I know this first hand from my house and the almost fire i had. and there are 250,000 dryer fires every year in north America on average
Great jokes
😂😂
👍
Looks good. Two notes. I'm not happy about using silicone rubber for this application. I think it could be a fire hazard unless the type you're using is rated for this type of an application. Always use things that are rated for what you're doing. It's a lot safer that way. I've had great luck simply screwing that in and not sealing it. I haven't run into a pro that sealed it.
You don't need to be spiderman. Just pull your washer out. Connect it, then move your washer back. Unless you like to wear the spiderman outfit.
That corrugated pipe is crap. Lint will stick to everything all along the pipe. Use smooth vent pipe, the lint will for the most part just blow on through instead of getting stuck on each and every ridge on the corrugated junk.
Dryer vents and the dryer it self should at a minimum be cleaned annually . If the unit is used more than average, the vent and dryer should be cleaned more often. In a perfect world and when ever possible, a ridged vent is best, but as long as proper maintenance is done the flexible aluminum duct will not be a problem. The ridged vent will at the very least require annual cleaning too.
Would be better without the sunglasses, good info
nix jokes too
Yeh, don’t use this.
Sorry this is a crap install. There's better stuff available out there
Click bait ?
? Not sure what you’re talking about.