Ex journeyman lineman here, you did a good job! Even opening the breaker before inserting it is good safety practice. No sparks and no arcs good joo joo. (: As you said the size of the cable can be misleading due to insulation variances. And like you mentioned you are wanting to know the cross section of the actual wire and the make. Copper aluminum etc etc! I like you mentioned proper shoes as well. It amazes me that some people will even be standing in water or leaning on something being a good ground while working with electricity. Or not realizing the dangers of an open neutral that is not connected or properly bonded.
I mean as long as you don't count the use of a 70 amp rather then a 60 amp. Second those disconnects are known to literally melt with evs because of heat over time. I would suggest switching to a better disconnect and a 60 amp breaker....
just be aware your stress relief clamps are all reversed, the clamping part goes outside of the box and the lock ring nut goes inside of the box also a anti-chafing pvc ring stops any chance of the stress relief chaffing thru the wire insulation.
As a licensed electrician that installs EVSEs, I need to make a couple comments. First, always get a permit and inspection. Most areas require them and it your utility offers rebates they will need the inspection as well. This will not pass inspection. When using the 6/3 romex, I will fail inspection with anything more than a 50amp breaker (and set the charger at 40amps max). If I want to go to a 60amp breaker and the charger set at 48 amps, I need to use thhn in conduit or #4 romex. The 70amp is too big. Also, I will only mount units or cord holders to a stud. The best anchors will not last with the cord use.
Thanks for your comment! It makes total sense. I assume 4 awg is needed to minimize heating so you wouldn't need a conduit in that case. If you use 6 awg, it needs to be thermo plastic high heat resistant nylon coated wire (THHN) so that it can get hot if it needs be and inside the conduit.
Agree I would not go beyond a 50 amp breaker even on a 200 amp panel having solar and AC on my house, I have question if any electrician cares to answer the question , How long do these EVSE chargers last ? I have a AeroViroment 32 amp charger on a 40 amp breaker hardwired installed "9 "years ago still going strong I use it now for my Model Y 2023, should I replace ?
I'm not an electrician but a communication technician. I work with large batteries, rectifiers, relays, and shunts. Everything the electrician said is correct. I would use a plywood backing to mount the charger. The plastic anchors will prematurely fail.
There have been documented fires using that type of disconnect box, they are not rated for continuous high amperage of EV charging. You need replace with a lever handle disconnect.
What is the thought process behind installing the disconnect box. Why would that be necessary for an install like this. Why not wire the charger directly to the breaker? Other comments say it’s not rated for this type of power draw anyway, but why would it be needed at all?
I've gotten a few complains how the device I used may not be rated for EV current transfer and so I cannot recommend it. I actually would go with the large lever switch types like this: amzn.to/3Ome19X Yes, it's A LOT more expensive but you have to do it for safety reasons.
i would not go beyond a 50 amp breaker even on a 200 amp panel maybe a sub panel yes ! what app are you using to the measure the heat can you share the link
You could've eliminated that disconnect by putting the charger in that space then going to the breaker you dont need a service disconnect when youre that close to the power source not to mention your inverted connectors are just horrible. You did more work than the job called for .
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Ex journeyman lineman here, you did a good job! Even opening the breaker before inserting it is good safety practice. No sparks and no arcs good joo joo. (: As you said the size of the cable can be misleading due to insulation variances. And like you mentioned you are wanting to know the cross section of the actual wire and the make. Copper aluminum etc etc! I like you mentioned proper shoes as well. It amazes me that some people will even be standing in water or leaning on something being a good ground while working with electricity. Or not realizing the dangers of an open neutral that is not connected or properly bonded.
Thanks for your comment! It means a lot! =D
I mean as long as you don't count the use of a 70 amp rather then a 60 amp. Second those disconnects are known to literally melt with evs because of heat over time. I would suggest switching to a better disconnect and a 60 amp breaker....
Your wire size it too small for a 70a breaker and the connectors are upside down.
Your NM clamps are upside down, the threaded end should go into the box. That’s why you couldn’t get to the end nut
Was the white wire not used and if so couldn't it have been used for ground and the actual ground wire cut off?
just be aware your stress relief clamps are all reversed, the clamping part goes outside of the box and the lock ring nut goes inside of the box also a anti-chafing pvc ring stops any chance of the stress relief chaffing thru the wire insulation.
Great video, I have read that those pull fuses aren't safe for EV chargers...
As a licensed electrician that installs EVSEs, I need to make a couple comments. First, always get a permit and inspection. Most areas require them and it your utility offers rebates they will need the inspection as well. This will not pass inspection. When using the 6/3 romex, I will fail inspection with anything more than a 50amp breaker (and set the charger at 40amps max). If I want to go to a 60amp breaker and the charger set at 48 amps, I need to use thhn in conduit or #4 romex. The 70amp is too big. Also, I will only mount units or cord holders to a stud. The best anchors will not last with the cord use.
Thanks for your comment! It makes total sense. I assume 4 awg is needed to minimize heating so you wouldn't need a conduit in that case. If you use 6 awg, it needs to be thermo plastic high heat resistant nylon coated wire (THHN) so that it can get hot if it needs be and inside the conduit.
Agree I would not go beyond a 50 amp breaker even on a 200 amp panel having solar and AC on my house, I have question if any electrician cares to answer the question , How long do these EVSE chargers last ? I have a AeroViroment 32 amp charger on a 40 amp breaker hardwired installed "9 "years ago still going strong I use it now for my Model Y 2023, should I replace ?
I'm not an electrician but a communication technician. I work with large batteries, rectifiers, relays, and shunts.
Everything the electrician said is correct. I would use a plywood backing to mount the charger. The plastic anchors will prematurely fail.
There have been documented fires using that type of disconnect box, they are not rated for continuous high amperage of EV charging. You need replace with a lever handle disconnect.
Great suggestion.
I would say they are not even needed and you are just adding another point of failure.
50amp chargers don't charge at 50 amps, 50 amp breaker is fine.
What is the thought process behind installing the disconnect box. Why would that be necessary for an install like this. Why not wire the charger directly to the breaker? Other comments say it’s not rated for this type of power draw anyway, but why would it be needed at all?
A 50A charger is in fact a 48A charger and you need a 60A breaker, not 70A.
How to 3 tipe socket cut ✂️ inistal another socket please confirm
Is it possible to share the amazon link for the electric box and the inner metal piece that acts as a jumper ?
I've gotten a few complains how the device I used may not be rated for EV current transfer and so I cannot recommend it. I actually would go with the large lever switch types like this: amzn.to/3Ome19X Yes, it's A LOT more expensive but you have to do it for safety reasons.
Can you leave a link to the connection box you use?
I think it was a Home Depot product, no link for that.
i would not go beyond a 50 amp breaker even on a 200 amp panel maybe a sub panel yes ! what app are you using to the measure the heat can you share the link
ua-cam.com/video/YJFwcfd7mtU/v-deo.html
Tesla only supports to charge max up to 48A.
Yeah.. when charging via AC, max is 48A
8 awg wire on a 70-amp breaker you’ll asking for a fire.
You could've eliminated that disconnect by putting the charger in that space then going to the breaker you dont need a service disconnect when youre that close to the power source not to mention your inverted connectors are just horrible. You did more work than the job called for .
i have seen melt downs on that disconnect box, should use a lever handle disconnect
More beefy, good idea. Where did you see the melt down? Might be from a bad connection resulting in overheating.
@@BeatTheBushDIY video on youtube
@@BeatTheBushDIY state of charge
So much wrong with this installation. You really should have paid a qualified electrician for this job 😢
Disconnect not needed at all.