2K EPOXY Primer Sheet Metal Panel Prep - TRICKS & TIPS | Ep.38 Retro Styled Electric Hot Rod
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Thank you for all the LIKES for the Door Skin Installation video! As promised, Nick demonstrates what's involved in preparing a metal body panels for 2 part Epoxy primer. Watch as he washes, sands, washes again and applies the primer.
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I understand that isocyanate can get into your body via breathing, bare skin and eyes.
Do you think your ppe is sufficient for these products?
I cannot get a clear answer on this. I am painting a hood and roof on a van. First timer. I want to cover with an epoxy primer. I used a Random Orbital and sanded the metal down to 180. Should I have stopped at 80 grit? How smooth is too smooth to accept epoxy primer. I am afraid that I have already made it too smooth. Any input appreciated!
Hi, when I prep bare metal for direct to metal epoxy I'll use a DA and 80grit(no higher than 120). Never had any separation issues. Work in gloves to prevent oil from hands getting on panel. Wash panel with degreaser before and after sanding. Allow degreaser up to 30 min to evaporate before shooting your epoxy. That's it. Now with urethane surfacing 2k primer the panel can be sanded with 180 up to 220. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Please hit Subscribe. Thanks!!
@@iNVisionPrototypes subscribed! Thank you! I was getting such bad advice from manufacturers and paint shops (Telling me to go 320-600 for Epoxy primer DTM). That made no sense to me. Seems way too smooth. What degreaser do you use to clean the panels and can I just re-sand the metal back down to 80 from the 180?
@@FinestEventss Ic. I use heavy duty wax and grease remover supplied by our local jobber. Yes, you can sand back down using 80. Cheers!
Nice fab work. I find mild media blasting is much faster and also more effective on those "non-DA" areas.
Good tip, thanks Sam!
Great video brother! Are some degreasers better than others? Thank you
Great question! I get the more potent degreaser available from my jobber. I'm sure if it says 'degreaser' it will remove oil, grease, etc. Keep washing until the rag tells you that the surface is clean - that is key.
What paint gun are you using in the SPI EPOXY Primer as a sealer? How much reducer ratio? SPI Reducer? I have a Iwata LPH80 124G Thanks
Just an old primer gun - 2.0 nozzle. Usually best to follow the TDS for the product you're laying down. Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to produce and upload this. All the best mat
Glad you enjoyed it Mat!
Id say its all from sanding ,metal mainly
I spray paint 2 part epoxy primer to large boxes and parts. I use a Graco Merkur 32:1 pump and not the cup gun normally. Factory work, however I am lucky to do what I do. Nice job on your parts. I agree with your prep and spraying technique, I can tell you are quite experienced with your sprayer.
Very cool! Thanks for sharing a little about what you do Jason! 👍👍
You need a regulator on that gun, pringing down the air will help with the overspray
Thanks for the tip!
Awsome video as always I've started to try and make a 40 ford gas tank the english wheel is an amazing tool 🙂
Right on, very ambitious project! One thing Peter...don't try, just DO and you will be successful! Please keep me posted and take care 🙂
Thanks for the video. Can I spray epoxy primer right after sandblasting or do I need to sand it aswell?
Hi Christian, You will need to hit the panel/body with a DA or by hand with 80 or 120 grit before applying the epoxy. You want to knock off any loose blasting media as well as smooth the blasted profile out a bit. Results in a better finish. Thanks for watching. If you have any more questions don't hesitate. Cheers, N.
Thank you so much
No problem Black Stealth!! Thanks for watching
Would you do all the same processes for aluminum skin to prevent corrosion? Thanks.
Yes, we do.
Wow, you go through a lot of gloves!! It's a good tutorial though..
LOL! Saves the hands! Thanks for watching
Hey Nick, you ever use any phosphoric acid to etch your panels?
Never blow panel go straight to washing. Now you have stuff floating in the air
Good tip if a guy doesn't have exhaust fans running. Thanks for watching!!
Covering your car there with some overspray.
Yeap! Brings the shine down. LOL! 👍 Thanks for watching.
He really knows his stuff he's good 👍👍
Nick, I want epoxy on my clean metal. I have to choose an epoxy w/ catalyst or a "DTM Epoxy" and those scare me with a weak acid they claim to provide a chemical tooth. Sanding with 80 grit or finer gives us the mechanical tooth, but after all the work, cleaning I am afraid of delaminating.
The kind were all is done correctly, times, temp and comes off with some masking tape. Do you have a preference or theory?
Thanks. Mechanic wants to paint, for himself.
Hi Dean, I haven't been able to buy self etching primer from my jobber for at least 15 years. We've been using 2K epoxy primers without ANY issues using the procedure illustrated in the video. I do recall 'helping' a friend who brought in a car... already primered and ready for paint. During the unmaking process when I pulled back the tape it lifted everything down to bare metal. I assumed poor prep work but after asking him, self etching primer was used. I don't know if it was a case of sitting on the shelf for many years or what. But I stick with the 2k epoxy for all my jobs and never paint over someone else's prep-work/primer. We strip it down to bare metal and start fresh. Hope this helps.
@@iNVisionPrototypes You gave me exactly what I was looking for regarding the 2k epoxy. What brands of 2k epoxy does your supplier carry, recommend or sell you? We have 4 paint suppliers which include Sherwin-Williams, a PPG store I thought was a high-end bank (I think for a $20 cover charge & X-Ray of your wallet, they will let you in). Another that has been here for 35 years and charge extra for it. I have not made it into the last one. ;) I do appreciate your input and you are right about clean. Just like the video, oil based and white rag. Oh, Kimberly-Clarke makes a lint-free rag called Wyp-All, L40 or 40L. I have to did them out after my youngest boxed my stuff and moved it, to make room for his 80's car to wire it. Well, I wire it and he watches me!
Thanks again for your name brand advice as I like doing it right, doing it once, to achieve best results.
DK, Omaha. Have a great time over the holidays as I feel the garage work is therapy for the mind...
@@deankay4434 I have never used an epoxy primer that did poorly as long as the metal is clean and has at least 100 grit sanding scratch, including less expense brands from lesser known companies.
Good work. I’m surprised by all the dirt and grease you got off the parts.
What de wax de greaser do you use? I have Prepall but don’t know if it’s the best.
Paul
Hi Paul, our jobber carries extra strength Proform degreaser. I've heard Prepall works well. Just wash until you have no more residue and you're set for the next step. Thanks for watching!!
@@iNVisionPrototypes I will. I not only have a 1977 FJ40 Land Cruiser that needs new paint, but I have an old Southbend Heavy 10 L lathe that needs attention. I’m following your example.
Not everyone will spend the time in surface prep and I admire your focusing on that part of the job. It’s clearly number 1 in getting a good finish.
Seriously, I was shocked at how many times you cleaned each piece, still getting black on the rag. I’m trying to teach this to my daughter. The importance of surface prep. I think she gets it. But I will forward your video to her as a reminder.
As for my FJ40, I’m tempted to have it done professionally. But part of me wants to try it myself. It doesn’t need to be showroom quality, just protected.
You’re working on a Porsche? That’s what it looked like in the video. An old S maybe? I’m looking for a deal on a 1973 BMW 2002 tii. My dream car, with an M engine with 6 cylinders, twin turbo and supercharged, and disk brakes all around. I used to own a 1969 BMW 1600 and fell in love with that car. Also owned a 1973 BMW 3.0 CSI that I bought in Milan Italy and shipped to Long Beach CA.
Sorry for all the info.
P
@@paulmanhart4481 Hi Paul, I started painting when I was quite young on small parts and pieces eventually working my way up to full vehicles. It can be quite daunting to paint a complete car if you've never done it. If you are thinking to do the FJ40 yourself may I suggest to paint the panels separately and practice on something you don't care about. Proper materials are expensive and it's easier to redo a single panel vs. the whole body. The '73 BMW 2002 tii is a sweet car!! In the video I was working on a one off hand built vehicle called Electrode we created a few years ago. With respect to the prep stage, I will never paint over someone else's prep work as I've seen entire sections of the initial epoxy primer layer peel up from the metal after final the clear has gone on. For whatever reason the epoxy never stuck. That's why I'm extremely particular when it comes to prepping our cars before they see any paint. By the way, no need to apologize. I really enjoy chatting chat with my viewers. Usually I reply sooner, however, it's crunch time for the '51 as my Dad and I are getting things wrapped up before paint. Anyway, thanks for sharing and best of luck on your projects! 👍 N
Youre badass. Its an art and no joke on why yall get paid the $$$. Very well explained and thorough. You Canucks are the best. Your family should be proud of you, Dad passed on a dying artform. Seeing candy apple red on a vintage corvette 10-12 layers thick will make anyone a believer in quality body shops.. lol. Thank you and have a great day. Make that $$$.
Never been called a 'badass' lol!! don't even have a tat... got some cool brandings from hot metal sticking to the skin!! Thanks for watching!
@@iNVisionPrototypes You are one. The amount of work that goes into a QUALITY job, is pretty badass to me. Not everyone sees things like you do.
@@ro-jayno-yay3185 Thanks!! I appreciate that Sir!👍
@@iNVisionPrototypes THANK YOU! Metalwork just makes me wince. Keep them videos coming. Winter is upon us.
I do this with my eyes opened I'm a master
Fantastic!!
I knew cleaning was important, but a person needs to get serious about it.
Very serious!
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Since a DA is so gentle, did you use a finer grit when hand sanding?
Hi Rod, don't over think it. At this stage the DA with 80Grit creates a pretty decent surface texture for the epoxy to adhere to. Hand sanding may cut a little deeper, but that's OK. It's after this stage that you need to watch what you're cutting with. Check out my Block Sanding episode for the 40's hood. Great question and thanks for watching. Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask. Cheers! Nick
what kind of degreaser do you use?
Hey AJ, usually a 3M wax and grease remover. However, due to recent supply issues my jobber can only get ProForm. Seems like a pretty good product with no issues so far and smells very much like the 3M product. Hope this helps you.
@@iNVisionPrototypes It does. Thanks!
👍😎👍
Thanks for watching.
Are you wiping with wax and grease
Wiping with a 'wax & grease remover'
Do you recommend metal conditioner. Prior to this application?🙏 Panels are blasted with glass.
@@mansourjreige677 It depends. If you are leaving them bare then they should be treated otherwise flash rust will be an issue. Usually immediately after media blasting we knock the profile down with 120grit, blow down surface with compressed air and spray with 2k epoxy.
@@iNVisionPrototypes can I use wax and grease after sanding with 120
@@mansourjreige677 Sure!
Can copper be epoxy coated?
Hi! What are you doing with the copper surface after? End goal? Thanks
@@iNVisionPrototypes A copper surface that I want to paint, what are the steps to establish it and then paint it basecoat & clearcoat
@@freebusinees5668 Prep it by de-greasing the surface, sand away any oxide using 80-120grit, blow off/wash and apply your epoxy. Also, refer to your Material Data Sheet to confirm correct application of the epoxy. Cheers!
@@iNVisionPrototypes 👌👌👌
@@freebusinees5668 Glad I could help. Take care!!
Very interesting. Would there be the same amount of oil come off an un-worked panel?
I was always taught to prep as you did, but to use etch primer on bare metal and grp - any thoughts?
Great question! When we get sheet steel from our supplier there is a ton of oil coating them. After we cut a blank to create a new panel out of a sheet the blank is washed before we work with it. However, I do not let panels sit untreated while other areas are being worked on as it might be some time before we can get back to the previous area. Flash rusting is never fun to clean up. As for primer, there has always been a debate over what to use - etch or DTM Epoxy. We have been prepping panels in this manner and using DTM epoxy since before I had grey hair and never had a job come back to haunt us. Not saying that what you were taught is wrong. From experience, etching primer remains reversible(rub some lacquer thinner on it). DTM 2K epoxy is not and once fully cured solvent will not affect it. If there are plans to put filler over top and one happens to cut though the epoxy into the etching primer, the filler can potentially dissolve the etching primer and cause it to come away from the metal. I guess, at the end of the day, if you find a system that works... stick with it. Cheers! N.
I’ve used both and like the etch primer better but DTM epoxy is the way to go if you’re putting filler on top. I’ve left both out in the elements over winter less than a mile from the ocean (BC, Canada) and both failed after a couple years.
For those saying put body filler on bare metal, that just doesn’t work well in the harsh rainy climate we have here.
I've had better luck with self etching primer with urethane primer on top than epoxy primer but whatever works for you use it thanks for the information
Thanks for sharing!
Better luck doing what? I am genuinely interested in the answer.
@@Spiritof_76 self etching primer over bare metal than epoxy primer I have seem epoxy primer pill off
@@stormyyoung6344 Was the metal thoroughly cleaned and sanded with minimum 100 grit? Do you remember what brand of epoxy primer?
@@Spiritof_76 i have done many cars most sand blasted then 180 gritted shop I work at gives a lifetime warranty