This is the only time I use EPOXY Primer/Sealer (controversial)
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Today we're mixing and applying epoxy primer/sealer. As soon as it flashes we will apply paint directly WITHOUT sanding it. This is the only type of application where we use epoxy rather than polyester primer. The topic of epoxy vs primer always seems to be controversial ✅
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If you apply epoxy properly it will NOT rust, that's what's good about epoxies. They seal completely are aren't porous, some have rust inhibitors in them too. My trade is in epoxies specifically.. I've painted millions of square metres of concrete, steel, water towers, inside huge concrete water tanks and a lot of other applications, all with epoxies.... PS, epoxies are NOT about speeding up the process, that's just a side effect of the 2pac nature of epoxy, epoxy is a far superior sealer with superior adhesion... Know your product folks....
He really confused me when he said that. I had no problem at all with rusting when I painted my Triumph Spitfire and it's been years. I always tried to be able to paint within the time limit. Sanding epoxy sucks.
yes, this is the information that people need to hear. NOT what was said tin this video
I thought what he said was completely backwards, and sanding the area for adhesion after it has cured isn't that bad!
You are a 100% correct. He completely botched the truth. Epoxy is a non breathable product. Urethane primer is breathable and will draw and trap moisture. 2k primers go on top of Epoxy in a perfect world. And there are high build epoxies. PPG’s VP 2050 is a perfect example. If you want to use epoxy as a sealer it needs to be reduced to lay flat because it does have some build to it.
@@kyleelliott7745 I also thought that at least some epoxy primers can be painted up to a few days after spraying before you would have to sand.
Ok...you did it again. When you started this, I thought it was not going to look good, I figured the rear part behind the back window was going to look out of proportion. Then the first rear window was not good, but you fixed it. You put the port holes in, which it needed. And now....AWESOME. Great job, guys. I think it will be the best looking TBird ever. I hope Jolene thinks long and hard, and listens to comments, before you apply a paint color. Look at other TBirds online. That's a big car, and color is going to be critical. Speaking of Jolene, I think she should add more audible comments to her videos.
Been around this field most of my life, and have learned what works for some doesn't work for others. You do awesome work and the end result is what counts. Be safe out there!
Chad, very nice teaching moments today. When I was in the Army back in 1968 and 1969, I worked at a gas station on the weekends and the owner was a painter and Mike tried to teach me all his "in's and out's" to spray painting and doing prep body work. It was a lot of learning and work. I wish that I would have continued to learn and develop my painting skills and knowledge. Keep it coming brother.
Like a older lady with a new face lift ! T Bird is better looking than the day it rolled out of the factory ! All thanks to Jolene and Chad and now with the addition to team Hiltz Doug ! Sectioned roof and portholes modified the rear window moved it 12 inches removed old pitted chrome ! You can't even tell it's had work done to the roof !well done ! Thumbs-up guys team Hiltz hits a home run on this blast from the past !
We use epoxy all over our boats. For fiberglass repair, making fairing compounds, waterproofing and sealing. Also can be a good adhesive for some applications. Only downside of epoxy is it is not UV friendly so that must be addressed. Typically with light-colored paints if exposed to direct sun. Your hinge assemblies that that see heavy duty are ideal candidates for epoxy coating. West System is the gold standard epoxy for marine use. Chad I admire your approach to efficiency. When there is so much work to do there's really no other choice.
Hi Chad and Mrs J. I’m Dave Musick from Texas. I was born in Bakersfield, California as a result of my grandpa and grandma’s exodus from West Texas (GRAPES OF RATH) style during the depression and the Dust Bowl. They headed for the San Juan King Valley to work on the corporate farms; slave labor. Grandpa was a Shade Tree mechanic and taught his boys the independence of DIY living. In the 50’s my uncles started B&M Transmissions in Bakersfield. Dad and I did a lot of SHADE TREE work on a few cars ourselves. I’ve been under cars most of my life. I learned about independence from my mom and dad, both Texans and depression era kids. So I enjoy your work ethic and your self made man persona. You are a good teacher and I’ve learned a lot from you. I’m 74 and still learning! You do good work and you remind of my family and their tenacious hard working attitude. Keep it up man. Thank you.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
I worked in main stream shops 40 + years and you are completely right about that.
Laying down in the hospital right now, thank God for Bad Chad and his Queen Jolene. Amazing people 😀!!!!! Thanks for keeping me company 😁
If you look at the instructions for the featherfill primer you sprayed yesterday, it says not to be applied to bare metal. Epoxy prime bare metal
As long as the metal is scratched up it's fine.
The corporations will tell you anything to sell a new product.
I been doing body work 40 years epoxy should be used fist over bare metal before any thing gets put on it
Epoxy should be used first then featherfill as a wet on wet
@@tommywilliams5135 Absolutely...
An important step in the process. Chad and Jolene do great things. Doug is a great help too.
Doug seems a bit cocky an lost slot of jobs personality
Is that epoxy or primer
Yea but you got chad acting like a child and putting no respect as he says he has like what is his truth
@@chrissweet6298 chad has good ideals an he has strength an a bit of wisdom on fabing I respect work an he can prove his thoughts by his finished work
I LOVE seeing this come together.. The roof relocation and porthole installation makes this simply fantastic!
I used to work for an industrial paint contractor. The job I worked on was painting a bridge. We sand blasted the steel down to bare metal and recoated with a zinc based epoxy primer and epoxy paint. Made for a durable coating.
They have been dropping tbe zinc epoxy primer and going to a high build epoxy primer into a epoxy holding coat and top coated with urathane for uv protection
Same reply I put on your other video, just to help inform people who are here to learn....
If anyone want to know why you should epoxy bare metal before priming with polyester or doing heavy bodywork, spray a test panel with epoxy and then poly, spray another panel with just poly. Now scratch a spot down to bare metal on both panels and leave it out in the weather and watch the rust creep under the primered surfaces and see just how far the rust creeps under the poly only side. Can you prime over bare metal, of course you CAN, but if its something you want to last even as it may get chipped up you shouldn't. Show car stuff that will never get driven around much and wont ever see any weather elements you wont notice any difference I guess.
Also, if you are going to leave a car in primer for a long time and its in a environment that will temp change alot and humidity levels will rise and fall, any Poly primer or standard 2K primer WILL soak in moisture and your car will start to show rust peeking through the primer as the moisture WILL get to the metal. If you have an epoxy primer down it will create a barrier.
You guys are awesome! Always enjoy your show(except maybe the one with the Thing car the other day which just made me feel weirdly uncomfortable, but thought you really handled it like a champ the next day, which we, your fans, appreciate).
I just wanted to thank you and Jolene for posting these videos everyday. You are about the hardest working guy I've seen on UA-cam and you're an inspiration to people everywhere.
This is the best way to handle small, blasted parts. The key is to apply enough epoxy to cover the blasted profile. If not enough coverage or mill thickness you could end up with flash rusting. I typically use industrial epoxies due to their filling capabilities.
Hi Chad, I use disposable furnace filters in front of my fans to catch the paint overspray and it helps keep the fans clean. Plus when they are dry they can go right into the garbage landfill. No epa problems!!!
I really like when you share your opinion on different way to do things!
Rock on Bad Chad and Queen Jolene.
What I love about Chad is he doesn’t say you MUST do it this way , he does it is own way and that’s what works for him , great work my friend 😎
Haha chad deleted the video of him taking the thing and says he all real
Lies only growing
He even put a black eye on wtf 😬
That’s sad
He says he is real not what I’ve seen lately
You are doing a Great job Chad, I like youre work my dad and I use to build a car or truck now ad then and after he passed away I did a couple of sleepers but I never went full blown with any of them it was always cost prohibative for me but I could do the eye candy with a few extras. Keep on doing what you are doing withthe right attitude because youare helping more people than yo know. God Bless.. GMan
You should be proud. Everyone is trying to copy you format style, having wives and girlfriends participate, and it makes me ill. You and Jolene work perfect together and everyone else has this giggle butt female laughter that just does not fit. Jolene, you have a quiet demeanor that does not disrupt or make me ill. You are perfect. I love when you do a personal appearance, and you add great comments. No one will outshine you. Ian and others fall way short of your abilities and qualities. Love you and Chad and keep it up!
Been using Black Rustoleum Automotive Primer to work some panels out on a restoration without stripping the car, sanding then feather edging everything first, noticed that Rustoleum it's resistant to water more so than the surface that I presanded with 180, the oils in the Rustoleum are more resistant than modern paints in my opinion, think I'm going to go the route you speak of over the work I'm doing just to seal it so new paint wont lift the old work underneath it. The nice thing about the black primer, you can see your highs and low spots without guide a coat when sanding with 180 or 220, but it takes at least 2-3 days for it to cure where it's sandable without water open cut dry paper, ideally I like waiting at least a week for it to dry to shrink back, or even longer.
Thank you so much for all the valuable information,, Chad, that is why all your builds are incredible,
Nothings better than a good 2k epoxy primer.
Very important is: RESPECT THE TIME THAT THE PRODUCT NEEDS TO DRY 100%.
All the top of the top restorations car that I know has all a 2k epoxy first for sealer.
I have also some videos on YT about 2k epoxy 👍
Love you Brad and Jolene thank you for sharing so much of your experience with people who can't afford or didn't have the ability to do what you do. It's fun to live through your experiences.
The car is looking great really looking forward to the finished product .
This Thunderbird looks BETTER than the factory design! I love it!
Chad I have been taught that THE reason for using 'true' epoxy primer is for the 'very' reason, "to protect 'properly prepared' bare metal from rusting". Including setting the car in the back lot for a year if needed. I am not disputing you, but I do 'now' have major questions...
Example: I bought two gallons of MP 200 from matrix which is a 'premium' quality DTM primer (not epoxy).. I contacted them and ask if I could expect the same waterproof protection from the 200 as 'true epoxy', (could I 'hypothetically' spray and place it on the back lot as with 'true epoxy' and expect the same good sealed protection and results for extended amounts of time if necessary). They said they though it is waterproof and safe for wet sanding, they would not recommend using it 'as' 'epoxy' for extended outdoor protection.
Surely you can now see my confusion... thanks
Phillip Hall
Chad & Jolene, the car is looking better & better everyday. Both of you great work as always!
Epoxy primer sealer is the best foundation for paint and primer.
Epoxy with flashtime and paint applied is called wet on wet application.
Epoxy primer sealer is waterproof thats why its an excellent foundation.
Like you said its not a filling primer.
Been refinishing vehicles in body shop since 1966.
It's always a pleasure watching you work! Keep up the great work you do and I'll keep watching.
Awesome job Chad looking forward to the finished product great video Jolene keep up the amazing work 😮❤.
i like how bringing the roof forward makes the tail fins look longer than all the others i have seen , The port holes also great touch. I can't wait to see what color Jolene chooses to paint it, 🤔 Chad should let Jolene paint it 😄
I think you guys are amazing. My partner and I sit every night and love watching you guys. Your cars are amazing. The people who complain, their just jealous. Keep up the good work.
Excellent job I never liked this year model of T Bird but I really really really like your version I don’t always like your version mostly I do but when I don’t I still respect the hard work and I always love the teaching thank you for sharing keep up the amazing work much love from Alabama
I welded/repaired then epoxy-primed Saint-George's Ukrainian Orthodox Church's front steel awning roof in Lachine Quebec in 2013. Then, I single-stage poly-urethaned it within 24 hours. All using PPG products. 10 years later outside in the extreme Montreal weather. Still holding strong, unchanged. PPG makes amazing products.
Hey Jolene is Fina doing good? Haven't seen her in a bit. We are huge doggie people and love watching Fina hang out with you guys.
Fina is still rocking the earmuffs .
I'm glad you explained the painting on epoxy within the certain time. I to was wondering about that. It is true, epoxy is not a building primer. You should do an explanation of those Cdn Tire spray can primers and when people spray their whole car and then it rusts away.
Looks great all one color. Congratulations on 250 k
Congrats on reaching quarter million subscribers guys. From New Zealand.
I agree with ya chad thinner paint is the way to go. I've painted a bit in my time and I've always like to paint with my paint thinner than what they recommend it to be and I like a bit of higher pressure as well.
The shelf life of feather fill is crucial. I learned this the hard way by applying it to an entire '78 corvette only to have never harden.
G'day, a suggestion you may consider.
Invest in some veterinary syringes, to mix small batches of paint. 500 ml or bigger. Sucking the paint from the can is so much cleaner than pouring. If you shop around, not expensive, can be cleaned and reused, but once the rubber pulls out replace it. For small batches, keeps everything cleaner.
Loved that Terraplane, keep up the good work.
If you take a little featherfill with talcum powder or airicil powder mix to consistency you prefer , then add hardener you will have a glazing putty you can apply to pin holes before block sanding!! If you dont have featherfill hardener use resin hardener. Its the same thing!!
After i prime anything with a 2k product ,, while still soft , i go around the parts , look for pinholes,, and with a small paint brush and the cup i mixed primer in , i dab a drop of primer and work it into the holes,, can wipe it with a finger to smooth out,, it becomes one with the primer and hardens and sands easily,, 9 times out of 10 it does the job of spot putty.
Congratulations on a quarter million subscribers!!!
Touching with the back of the hand! I’m 80 years old and have left more than a few fingerprints on almost dry paint….until today! Genius! Here’s a tip for UA-cam junkies like me: I’ll never paint a car but I still got something valuable out of watching this. It happens almost every video. You da man Bad Chad!
The result of your work and design on the Thunderbird is outstanding.
i agree the short roof makes the fins look better too
I really like the T Bird. It looks much better with the two seats and the port hole. Nice job.
Doesn't matter if it's only primer; that thing looks 200% better, all one colour. Awaiting the next installment.
The Thunderbird looks awesome.👍😊
I always like your approach ; don't do things not needed ,if it works for you it probably will work for everyone, take what you like and throw away what you don't like, thumbs up for the three of you
Jolene always looks amazing and doing a great job with the camera ❤
Love this T-Bird build!
The Bird looks great!! Looking forward to see color on it. Thank you both for a great show this evening. Always look forward to them
This car is going to be another winner in my mind. About the epoxy you’re using, did you say if there’s a few bare spots to put the epoxy on just the spots then the colour on? Or epoxy the whole piece then paint the colour on? I’ve got a firewall to paint, right now it has bare spots showing through the epoxy I used already.
I wait for these updates every day. I can't wait to see it painted.
No Chad it doesn’t look factory at all! It’s been Hiltzafied! It’s new and improved brother! Your work speaks volumes. Park beside another T-Bird. I’ll bet you they’ll move from beside you! No Cap that’s a true 1 off brother
I have been using this 2k dtm epoxy primer by U POL and it does not want to stick well to steel body panels. It sometimes just blows right off the metel with compressed air in giant sheets. Or lifts and bubbles directly off the steel. No matter how well I prep the steel and follow the TDS. It just causes nothing g but problems for me, Im always using acid etch on metal from now on
im a little confused when he talked about if the epoxy is done properly it will rust quickly? i thought the whole point of the epoxy over bare metal etc is its corrosion resistance? care to explain his thoughts on this anyone? he is implying a high build primer would be better at rust resistance? just wondering
CONGRATULATIONS 250K SUBSCRIBED 🎉🎉so well deserved, keep on the good work.
Thunderbird looks great. Hope you have time to paint it. Thanks for another lesson in primer
there are many ways to do this right. I like epoxy for many reasons and I agree with Chad's comments. In my opinion painting over epoxy is an amazing and tough option.
What's got Chad fixated on epoxy? It's like he's trying to justify using it. You know what you're doing mate 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi there, I have a quick question of that's alright, when your hang your pieces to paint, have you ever hung a wire or a coat hanger at the bottom of the piece? I do that and I find that when I am painting, I can hold the bottom wire in one hand and have the paint gun in the other. I found that It stabilizes the piece and I'm not chasing it around as the air and paint hit the piece and moves it around or makes it spin. I personally found it a heck of a lot easier to paint my piece an it saved me a bunch of time because I wasn't chasing the piece around lol. I hope I'm not bothering you with me question. Have a great day.
i use to build dump trucks convert a long hauler to a dump we worked direct with dupont . they said they would not back a paint job that was sanded finer then 320 but we did a lot with 220 the rougher the sand the better the paint would hold plus they did not like us to go over 32 mil on thickness. raw metal we would etching primer then seal it then paint it then they would mic it with a meter had to be 28 to 32 mil then it would be ready for the car show after buff and trim paint lick gold leaf letters and open hand pin strips. found that tuff coat works really good for filling primer one of the best i have ever used plus i liked the sentary 5,000 paint but very expensive but i could get it 10% above cost to make it which was 1/2 the cost that a body shop could get it. the best part was if u got a run u can just take a heater to run the run out or instead of buffing it just use a heater on it it would make it smooth as glass if u baked it at the right temp it would look like it was buffed most people try to buff it that is the big mistake way too much work and ends up with a repaint if u don't do it right like the right speed on the buffer can not do it like ppg paints at all
Only your opinion well I think youve built a better Thunderbird than the bloated barge Ford churned out the neat little roadster vanished rather quickly and became a barge like sedan and your painting tips are working so far for me at least, and a bit of extra thinners gets the paint to flow nicer, The leftover lacquer from respraying the middle of my old Estate I had put in rattle cans for touch ups as I repair other parts
Windsor Ontario Canada watching 👀 Your a MASTER CHAD. && JOELLENE IS THE QUEEN
One thing I’ve knoticed that when u prime coat ur cars, u never show if you prime the insides. My neighbor once bought a nice looking 51 Chevy, when he had an inside door panel off on time , the inside was covered in rust. I assume the roof an rest of car was the same. So do u ever prim an paint the insides of cars u make ?
Nason epoxy does not fight corrosion very well at all but it’s priced right . If you want a good epoxy to fight corrosion Axalta 2580 cr is what you would want to use it’s expensive but has lots of zinc chromate in it and is extremely effective against corrosion. Ppg has CRE epoxy in their fleet line that works very well also,and the price point is inline with nason. The CRE will fill sand scratches much better then nason and has better corrosion fighting characteristics by far. CRE will also sand nice and not feel gummy and clog sand paper like nason epoxy does. A lot of restoration shops have discovered CRE in the last few years and choose to use it instead of the ppg DP SERIES epoxy in the automotive refinish market. It can sit for four days before it needs to be sanded before top coating. You can also recoat CRE with itself up to two weeks without sanding if you wanted to.
Never mind the car tomorrow, lets see Jolene's new make up! Oh the car looks good...Cheers from the UK.
I see nothing wrong with using the epoxy primer on the trunk hinges. If you were doing a restoration I would say no. Chad and Jolene keep doing what you do.
You are Correct on yor comment . 33 yrs doing Autobody n Registration. Now retired..
hi both, the car is already beautiful in its present state,,, interesting suggestions on the way you approach the different stages of preparing the car for painting...
You're giving out a lot of good information today.
Did you wait the induction time after mixing the epoxy before spraying ? Hard to tell with edited videos. But, I think is is important to mix the epoxy and wait the time recommend by the paint manufacturer, usually around 15 minutes, before spraying.
I agree Ford should made a Tbird like this keep up the great work
I wouldn't normally agree with cutting up a true classic,that said, Bravo Mr. Hiltz!! The car looks amazing!!
I’m with you on the car looking like it’s a factory built, you create amazing things with your hands
I’m always looking forward for the next video every day
Do you have any trouble with orange peel at a high pressure?
Perfectly explained perfectly done ✅ love it
Use the cut to fit universal filter material and make a couple you can use one while the other one is drying out when you wash it out and the plastic is OK with solvents and lasts longer than paper filters 👌
Good morning jolene and chad hope your feeling well and thank you for sharing your information and knowledge chad also by the look of the size of your fan in the paint room you could get filters for a hot air furnace and use them because they look to be the same size
You know the business and you are a great teacher and all should learn from you
Has been awhile since I watched demanded turned out really nice well-done Chad and Jolene
If someone finds a dust spec on the trunk hinge they are looking too close! I always say if they are looking that close, they better have a bunch of money they want to give me. I agree with you on the high pressure. I tried HVLP guns and never really liked them. I have an old Binks gun that I have used for fifty years that still works just fine.
When Chad says he tends to spray at higher pressure, what range might that be?
I don't know about Chad, but I use between 30 and 50 PSI depending on the paint. Lacquer paint at the high end, and enamel at the bottom.
@@burtnelson1987 Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
Do you need to reduce the epoxy to use as a sealer before basecoat without sanding
I'm not a Ford person, I'm a General Motors Holden and General Motors Chevrolet Man.
I must say though, I do like the small changes so far on Thunderbird.
Cool looking " Thunderchad"!
Awesome you hit 250👍
The Thunderbird looks awesome. Those portholes really sets the car off. Love you guys!!! 😎
Yes, nic the way you use your paint and primer, I do that for years
You still Da Man and Queen Joline is awesome with th camera . God Bless and have a great weekend !
Looking good Chad.👍
Congrats on 250,000 subs 👍
Well chad you have the T-Bird looking great,,of corse I knew you would,,I’m anxious to see it painted an put together,,hi to Jolene An I haven’t seen fina lately ,I hope she’s ok,,luv you guys,,👍👍😀
Great job Chad and thanks for the tips and tricks. Thanks Jolene for the video. Good luck with the war paint.
The port windows look good. 🙂
You are a true artist
The wings and length of the back yards look amazing with the shorter roof
What pressure do you spray at you probably said but I haven’t heard thanks keep up the awesome videos
Max full pressure
No controversy in what you said. All of this is true about epoxy and the window of time you can re-coat. I just used epoxy yesterday for under the hood and in the trunk because I had no need to fill anything and wanted to just paint right away. Great job on this car by the way.