I would actually recommend to apply the rust remover (phosphoric acid) with a brush, leave it for 10 mins, then brush over it with a small steel brush lightly, and finally leave it all the way until it completely dries then run the scotch brite over it very lightly to remove the most brittle oxidation. Phosphoric acid is meant to actually create a protective layer of iron oxide (stable one, not rust) and it'll have a gray dull finish to it when it's done. You can then paint over that after removing the oxide that is loose (like a powder). For that part it'd be enough to just use a plastic/brass brush that doesn't cut through the entire layer and compressed air so you can get all that loose dust off. If you only apply it directly, scrub and then wipe it off right away it'll have no effect at all.
Thanks for sharing . Like most products and painters everyone has there way of doing things . If it works for you keep doing it . This way and this product has worked for me for over 15 years . Cheers bro 😎
Not with epoxy primer. Painting over acid is high risk. It needs to be neutralized with water at least, something like baking soda in water even better. You can paint over that acid residue with a moisture cured urethane like POR 15.
You guys have so many products we can’t begin to get here in the States. Get to see different stuff and as well as the same procedures. I am a big believer in epoxy as a sealer to keep moisture from getting to the metal during the rebuild / new paint, but later as we drive these. In Nebraska, the dead center of the USA, we have many rural roads. No asphalt, concrete but dirt roads covered in gravel. It flys everywhere under a pickup truck and you have to slow down. The rocks fly off the tire tread and chips the clear, base color and primer. It is at this point, I would hope the epoxy would provide protection as we can’t find every little chip! I have seen the gravel chips show themselves when sanding for some body work and then a nice paint job. You sand to get into the metal under the chip only to find a huge 8” (200mm) spider web of tiny rust fingers working under the good looking paint and can’t believe what you are seeing! Have a good day and best of luck with your project. It is work and not cheap by far anymore. DK, ASE master auto tech since 1978, retired!
@@BogDustForBreakfast Rodger that, in my garage, supposed to be fixing washing machine but working leather buckets (2003 Tahoe / Modified / Welded) but they go in my 1967 C10 truck, custom center console. I have the PCM, BCM and TAC modules vertical at front of console with connectors up. Simply slide pockets with foam tape & console is 1/2” CPVC board with a top held with magnets. I used an Isuzu Rodeo/Trooper OD shifter. The Tahoe uses door modules the run signals thru class2 serial data to BCM. The fronts are used, but buried towards the back. Easy to remove or service. To operate lock/in-lock, windows, RKE are simple aluminum door lock piston shaped. They have a bolt on bottom, rubber bumper to switches with washer, jam nut & spring all hidden. It comes out complete with the tops center front to rear. Lots of wire but had the entire donor UTE. Even adjustable pedals because I am 6’3” and wife is 5’6” & 110 lbs. Oh, power seats so easy of her or me inside. The parts are all GM found at salvage yard or parts store for future service. Making a service manual is something most never do! It can take hours to track a failure but, if diagram/schematic per system in index, description, colors, wire size, connectors numbered and photo on back page by number. Now found & done in 20 minutes, long after I am gone. Adds value for paper, CD & thumb drive or memory stick. Don’t know what to call them. But one needs part numbers, vehicle year, model, wires match and easy to get to. A mechanics dream. 5.3L “LS” engine, cam, captured rocker arm trunnions, ran on test stand, injectors cleaned, compression reading taken and live oil pressure reading. I built an 87 era 700R4 with manual TC lock up, place temp sensor in pan to gauge inside, but put ACDelco planetaries, Sonnax, Superior, Alto Red Eagle frictions & Kolene steels, wide bushings, roller bearings, BW roller clutch HD, and new captured check valves, Jr plate, shift kit, large line valve, just everything, now a 4L65 non-electric trans. Plus more but like everything, a long way to go. I enjoy electrical and male/female connectors by part #. Strange, as few are good at all. Diff is done, limited slip, new seals, gaskets disc brakes C1500, dual 11” Booster, everything! Sorry, get carried away after sitting for 10. DK, best with project(s)!
Here in Europe we have some great products for exactly that. It's specifically made as a form of final undercoating to protect against chipping. It's oil/tar based and does not give up to rocks hitting it at all, in fact it'll absorb small sand and dust to create another layer on top of it that protects it even more. The stuff is terrible to work with once applied (for obvious reasons) but it's great for protection.
@@TheChrisey Very interesting how products are different or called different names. In the States, an oil/tar based product is called “Undercoating” and sometimes remains rubbery over its life. The epoxy is usually a 1:1 mix ratio and become very hard, after it window of working time is indicated on the technical data sheet (TDS) provided with the product of downloaded. Here in the States, a high number of technicians use it on cleaned bare metal to keep it from “Flash Rusting” as humidity can be very high in some areas. Being catalyzed, it works very well with the next coating that maybe catalyzed as well. So the epoxy here is straight epoxy, DTM epoxy that includes a weak acid for mechanical bonding or like the Vibrance line from PPG sells a DTM epoxy the is high-build. It is meant to build “Mil” thickness, cure, shrink if any yet be block sanded. It is quite expensive. SPI sells a non-DTM epoxy very well liked by the restoration technicians as it has a 7 day window. Meaning, filler, high-build primer, base color coat and clear be sprayed all together. Chemically, this means a “Cross-Linking” of the liquids evaporate or outgass, but and catalyzed product sprayed over it can chemically grow together. As engineering will look at the molecular level and tell you the product becomes “One Single Molecule” over the entire panel. Just any place the metal is continuous. Here, U-Pol Raptor is used in black under fenders in place of the oil/tar based products. It is mixed at the point of use, with their measuring cup, into one bottle, shaken by hand, then their spray gun screws on and you can change the “Texture” by air pressure (BAR), distance and speed with trigger control. Not only the wheel opening but the bottom of a bed, cabin or inside the trucks bed and it becomes extremely durable. Many spray the entire UTE with black or purchase the “Tint-able Type” add pure color toners sold at the paint store but always go a shade or two darker as it fades or looks a little lighter, like matching the door jambs & interior!
The oils and water that came out of that blower at 8:21 just negated all your work, worse, if you try and paint anything with that airline you will get humidity blisters at some point down the track in all your painted work. I always use an air dryer and a toilet roll filter on my airlines.
thanks for ur imput. im sure u have never done anything in a rush before and forgot to connect something. i normally have a roll filter and airline connected to a water and oil trap . problems you face driving to help people. bless your heart for commenting im sure you do everything perfect every time. please watch another video and leave me a negitive comment which makes me feel even better about making over 100 videos helping people for nothing in return .
hi mate sorry for the confusion , yeah if it changes blue just retreat with red scotchbrite again. key is to wipe off with wet rag and dry with dry one . then air blow it . i find that works really well
Hola Bog Dust For Breakfast, pimer comentario¡¡, muero de ganas por ver mas :3, ...oie, podrias hacerme un favor :v es que mi nombre es muy dificil de encontrar y el pinchi yutu no recomienda mi nombre, podrias buscarme desde el buscador aber si aumenta un poquitico? plox :3,
Nice work 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I would actually recommend to apply the rust remover (phosphoric acid) with a brush, leave it for 10 mins, then brush over it with a small steel brush lightly, and finally leave it all the way until it completely dries then run the scotch brite over it very lightly to remove the most brittle oxidation. Phosphoric acid is meant to actually create a protective layer of iron oxide (stable one, not rust) and it'll have a gray dull finish to it when it's done. You can then paint over that after removing the oxide that is loose (like a powder). For that part it'd be enough to just use a plastic/brass brush that doesn't cut through the entire layer and compressed air so you can get all that loose dust off. If you only apply it directly, scrub and then wipe it off right away it'll have no effect at all.
Thanks for sharing . Like most products and painters everyone has there way of doing things . If it works for you keep doing it . This way and this product has worked for me for over 15 years . Cheers bro 😎
Not with epoxy primer. Painting over acid is high risk. It needs to be neutralized with water at least, something like baking soda in water even better. You can paint over that acid residue with a moisture cured urethane like POR 15.
You guys have so many products we can’t begin to get here in the States. Get to see different stuff and as well as the same procedures.
I am a big believer in epoxy as a sealer to keep moisture from getting to the metal during the rebuild / new paint, but later as we drive these. In Nebraska, the dead center of the USA, we have many rural roads. No asphalt, concrete but dirt roads covered in gravel. It flys everywhere under a pickup truck and you have to slow down. The rocks fly off the tire tread and chips the clear, base color and primer. It is at this point, I would hope the epoxy would provide protection as we can’t find every little chip!
I have seen the gravel chips show themselves when sanding for some body work and then a nice paint job. You sand to get into the metal under the chip only to find a huge 8” (200mm) spider web of tiny rust fingers working under the good looking paint and can’t believe what you are seeing!
Have a good day and best of luck with your project. It is work and not cheap by far anymore.
DK, ASE master auto tech since 1978, retired!
Thanks for the message mate . The coupe has been painted now . Feel free to check it out
ua-cam.com/video/22VOSgP1XXY/v-deo.html
@@BogDustForBreakfast Rodger that, in my garage, supposed to be fixing washing machine but working leather buckets (2003 Tahoe / Modified / Welded) but they go in my 1967 C10 truck, custom center console. I have the PCM, BCM and TAC modules vertical at front of console with connectors up. Simply slide pockets with foam tape & console is 1/2” CPVC board with a top held with magnets. I used an Isuzu Rodeo/Trooper OD shifter. The Tahoe uses door modules the run signals thru class2 serial data to BCM. The fronts are used, but buried towards the back. Easy to remove or service. To operate lock/in-lock, windows, RKE are simple aluminum door lock piston shaped. They have a bolt on bottom, rubber bumper to switches with washer, jam nut & spring all hidden. It comes out complete with the tops center front to rear. Lots of wire but had the entire donor UTE. Even adjustable pedals because I am 6’3” and wife is 5’6” & 110 lbs. Oh, power seats so easy of her or me inside. The parts are all GM found at salvage yard or parts store for future service. Making a service manual is something most never do! It can take hours to track a failure but, if diagram/schematic per system in index, description, colors, wire size, connectors numbered and photo on back page by number. Now found & done in 20 minutes, long after I am gone. Adds value for paper, CD & thumb drive or memory stick. Don’t know what to call them. But one needs part numbers, vehicle year, model, wires match and easy to get to. A mechanics dream. 5.3L “LS” engine, cam, captured rocker arm trunnions, ran on test stand, injectors cleaned, compression reading taken and live oil pressure reading. I built an 87 era 700R4 with manual TC lock up, place temp sensor in pan to gauge inside, but put ACDelco planetaries, Sonnax, Superior, Alto Red Eagle frictions & Kolene steels, wide bushings, roller bearings, BW roller clutch HD, and new captured check valves, Jr plate, shift kit, large line valve, just everything, now a 4L65 non-electric trans. Plus more but like everything, a long way to go. I enjoy electrical and male/female connectors by part #. Strange, as few are good at all. Diff is done, limited slip, new seals, gaskets disc brakes C1500, dual 11” Booster, everything!
Sorry, get carried away after sitting for 10. DK, best with project(s)!
Here in Europe we have some great products for exactly that. It's specifically made as a form of final undercoating to protect against chipping. It's oil/tar based and does not give up to rocks hitting it at all, in fact it'll absorb small sand and dust to create another layer on top of it that protects it even more. The stuff is terrible to work with once applied (for obvious reasons) but it's great for protection.
@@TheChrisey Very interesting how products are different or called different names. In the States, an oil/tar based product is called “Undercoating” and sometimes remains rubbery over its life. The epoxy is usually a 1:1 mix ratio and become very hard, after it window of working time is indicated on the technical data sheet (TDS) provided with the product of downloaded.
Here in the States, a high number of technicians use it on cleaned bare metal to keep it from “Flash Rusting” as humidity can be very high in some areas. Being catalyzed, it works very well with the next coating that maybe catalyzed as well. So the epoxy here is straight epoxy, DTM epoxy that includes a weak acid for mechanical bonding or like the Vibrance line from PPG sells a DTM epoxy the is high-build. It is meant to build “Mil” thickness, cure, shrink if any yet be block sanded. It is quite expensive. SPI sells a non-DTM epoxy very well liked by the restoration technicians as it has a 7 day window. Meaning, filler, high-build primer, base color coat and clear be sprayed all together. Chemically, this means a “Cross-Linking” of the liquids evaporate or outgass, but and catalyzed product sprayed over it can chemically grow together. As engineering will look at the molecular level and tell you the product becomes “One Single Molecule” over the entire panel. Just any place the metal is continuous. Here, U-Pol Raptor is used in black under fenders in place of the oil/tar based products. It is mixed at the point of use, with their measuring cup, into one bottle, shaken by hand, then their spray gun screws on and you can change the “Texture” by air pressure (BAR), distance and speed with trigger control. Not only the wheel opening but the bottom of a bed, cabin or inside the trucks bed and it becomes extremely durable. Many spray the entire UTE with black or purchase the “Tint-able Type” add pure color toners sold at the paint store but always go a shade or two darker as it fades or looks a little lighter, like matching the door jambs & interior!
The oils and water that came out of that blower at 8:21 just negated all your work, worse, if you try and paint anything with that airline you will get humidity blisters at some point down the track in all your painted work. I always use an air dryer and a toilet roll filter on my airlines.
thanks for ur imput. im sure u have never done anything in a rush before and forgot to connect something. i normally have a roll filter and airline connected to a water and oil trap . problems you face driving to help people. bless your heart for commenting im sure you do everything perfect every time. please watch another video and leave me a negitive comment which makes me feel even better about making over 100 videos helping people for nothing in return .
You know where I can get a paint mixing cup with ratio 9:1?
DNA paints has 9:1 ratio on their cups . Another way without a cup is to measure 900ml then 100ml . Or 90 and 10 . Few ways around it .
When it comes up blue and you say to redo it. Do you mean resand or retreat with rust converter? Thanks for the vid!
hi mate sorry for the confusion , yeah if it changes blue just retreat with red scotchbrite again. key is to wipe off with wet rag and dry with dry one . then air blow it . i find that works really well
Hola Bog Dust For Breakfast, pimer comentario¡¡, muero de ganas por ver mas :3, ...oie, podrias hacerme un favor :v es que mi nombre es muy dificil de encontrar y el pinchi yutu no recomienda mi nombre, podrias buscarme desde el buscador aber si aumenta un poquitico? plox :3,