Thanks . I have exact same model and color..what were symptoms were you having Before ?.I think mine is Shot.Battery light came on and barley made it home Then finally died as I pulling in .
That's pretty much what happened to my wife. In fact, I had to go to where she was at and put the jumper cables on for about 20 minutes to get enough juice back in the battery to get the car home. If the car will start, you can check it with a volt meter. While the car is running, the alternator should be putting out between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.
@@mliphartok..well Thank you! Yes my Car is Dead and on Street parking and here in Chicago it's starting to Snow !! God give me Strength and Patience to Do this Alternator swap!!! I'll let you know how it Goes!!
I buy most of my parts at Autozone (just my preference since 1985). I'm not sure what the CCA of my battery is - I got it at Sam's Club - a Duracell group 94R. I think it is probably in that neighborhood as far as CCA.
Gonna be doing this in a month or 2. Car has always damaged the battery every year or 2 as soon as the weather gets cold. Alternator has always tested fine, but got a new battery Saturday and now the alternator is testing bad as well. Just going to keep the car on a battery tender in the meantime
Be careful with new alternators (especially remans or aftermarket) cause just testing the charge voltage can be deceiving. You should also test the current (amps) & voltage at IDLE with commonly used accessories on (headlights, wipers, heater, rear window defrost etc...) to make sure it keeps up. Eric O from the SMA channel has one video where he had to return 2 alternators before he finally got one that met specs.
You make a very good point. I have had it happen where the alternator charges fine with nothing on - but, when you start turning on lights, blower motor, etc - it doesn't. Thanks.
I hear you - but, I have done alternators that are much harder than this one - that's where the comment came from. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments.
I'm not sure what you mean by "full power." The battery will need to be checked at an Auto Parts Store or a Mechanic - on a load test to make sure it is good. It is important to rule that out first.
@@tech_with_jeffrey without being there to see it in person, I would say the battery is dead. It is totally possible for the battery to have enough juice to turn on all lights (including the headlights), but still not have enough juice to do anything else.
@@tech_with_jeffreythat sounds like your ignition assembly needs to be replaced. The plastic connector inside breaks and the key can turn, but it doesn't make contact with the ignition switch. There are videos on here showing how to fix this problem.
I recently just bought a new batter because we tested the alternator and the battery and battery was marking bad, so I got a new one. Didn’t turn my car on for a day and tried it just now all the lights turn on but didn’t want to start, just clicks as if the battery is low. Something is killing my battery does anyone have any idea why or may it be time for a new alternator ??
You will have to check the voltage in the battery. It can turn the lights on and not start the car. Also, when you had the alternator tested, how many volts was it putting out?
@@mliphart the battery should be in perfect condition due to me buying it about a month ago, my last battery had the same problem, sometimes on the first crank it wouldn’t do anything till about the 3rd it’ll turn on. I didn’t turn on my car for a day and tonight it didn’t want to turn over, just click with the lights on and the engine light on only.
@@mliphart I’m not really sure, I’ll have my mechanic check that out for me, last time we checked it it said the alternator was good on the code reader I believe, do you think it’s the alternator?
Thanks . I have exact same model and color..what were symptoms were you having Before ?.I think mine is Shot.Battery light came on and barley made it home Then finally died as I pulling in .
That's pretty much what happened to my wife. In fact, I had to go to where she was at and put the jumper cables on for about 20 minutes to get enough juice back in the battery to get the car home. If the car will start, you can check it with a volt meter. While the car is running, the alternator should be putting out between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.
@@mliphartok..well Thank you! Yes my Car is Dead and on Street parking and here in Chicago it's starting to Snow !! God give me Strength and Patience to Do this Alternator swap!!! I'll let you know how it Goes!!
@@gusto8585 good luck. I know the weather there well, I grew up 3 hours from Chicago.
@@mliphart Got it Done yesterday in some Slight Snow rain!!! Tha k you for your video
@@gusto8585 my pleasure.
Where did you buy the new alternator? Also, what size battery do you have for your Chrysler? I was recommended a 950 cca since mine is a 5.7 hemi
I buy most of my parts at Autozone (just my preference since 1985). I'm not sure what the CCA of my battery is - I got it at Sam's Club - a Duracell group 94R. I think it is probably in that neighborhood as far as CCA.
Gonna be doing this in a month or 2. Car has always damaged the battery every year or 2 as soon as the weather gets cold. Alternator has always tested fine, but got a new battery Saturday and now the alternator is testing bad as well. Just going to keep the car on a battery tender in the meantime
Be careful with new alternators (especially remans or aftermarket) cause just testing the charge voltage can be deceiving. You should also test the current (amps) & voltage at IDLE with commonly used accessories on (headlights, wipers, heater, rear window defrost etc...) to make sure it keeps up. Eric O from the SMA channel has one video where he had to return 2 alternators before he finally got one that met specs.
You make a very good point. I have had it happen where the alternator charges fine with nothing on - but, when you start turning on lights, blower motor, etc - it doesn't. Thanks.
Came out a little bit tough!!! Ya right.. this was the hardest alternator change I have ever done. Give me a GM over this any day'...
I hear you - but, I have done alternators that are much harder than this one - that's where the comment came from.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comments.
Would an alternator throw U1110 code and turn on your ABS and TCS lights. My volatge was at 10 too.
Not that I know of. My understanding of that code has to do with a communication error.
When mine was went out all kinds of lights popped up on the dash before the car completely died out
Nice. Thank you.
Thank you for the comments
Hey brother how can I reach you? I have a question. My chrylser has full power but no crank not even a click when I turn it.
I'm not sure what you mean by "full power." The battery will need to be checked at an Auto Parts Store or a Mechanic - on a load test to make sure it is good. It is important to rule that out first.
@@mliphart So when I would turn the key lights would come on etc now they won't come on at all. Locks don't work etc
@@tech_with_jeffrey without being there to see it in person, I would say the battery is dead. It is totally possible for the battery to have enough juice to turn on all lights (including the headlights), but still not have enough juice to do anything else.
@@tech_with_jeffreythat sounds like your ignition assembly needs to be replaced. The plastic connector inside breaks and the key can turn, but it doesn't make contact with the ignition switch. There are videos on here showing how to fix this problem.
I have 2008 chrysler 300c keeps killing batteries, wont go over 30 miles per hour with new battery.
Have you had the Alternator checked? It should be putting out around 14 volts - no less than 13 volts.
Have that checked, if you haven't already.
Were you reving the engine during the voltage test for a reason?
I'm not sure why it sounds like the engine is revved - but it is idling.
Thanks.
I have a 14 300c is this the same process ?
I'm not 100% sure on that - but, it should be similar.
I recently just bought a new batter because we tested the alternator and the battery and battery was marking bad, so I got a new one. Didn’t turn my car on for a day and tried it just now all the lights turn on but didn’t want to start, just clicks as if the battery is low. Something is killing my battery does anyone have any idea why or may it be time for a new alternator ??
You will have to check the voltage in the battery. It can turn the lights on and not start the car. Also, when you had the alternator tested, how many volts was it putting out?
@@mliphart the battery should be in perfect condition due to me buying it about a month ago, my last battery had the same problem, sometimes on the first crank it wouldn’t do anything till about the 3rd it’ll turn on. I didn’t turn on my car for a day and tonight it didn’t want to turn over, just click with the lights on and the engine light on only.
@@mliphart do you think it’s the ignition coils or alternator? Or may it have a shortage somewhere or ? I need help
@@santiagovalenzuela7454 how many volts is the alternator putting out?
@@mliphart I’m not really sure, I’ll have my mechanic check that out for me, last time we checked it it said the alternator was good on the code reader I believe, do you think it’s the alternator?