Ha! I probably have one buried somewhere. The trouble with being a general remodeler is that your collection of specialty tools grows so big that you can no longer find anything you need.
Honestly, it's not that critical. Over the years I've tried sheet plastic of various types but lately I've been using a self stick window and door flashing when I have it on hand because it stays put during construction and I don't have to run to the trailer for the staple gun. The important thing is just to create a barrier there so that any weeping of moisture or water over the years doesn't soak into the plywood underneath and cause rot.
@@enduringcharm I was thinking of using a wood sealant instead for moisture and water. Would that be ok as I don't really have any left over plastic but have plenty of water sealant for wood from a deck project over last summer? And yes I understand I can buy plastic but if I can save why not try?
@ Darkest light That probably would do little. The rot at the edge of a tub or pan occurs over time as moisture seeps in and becomes trapped. Eventually the plywood rots. The wood sealant for decks is meant to provide a film that promotes the runoff of water, as well as UV protection. Since there is nowhere for water to run off at the edge of a tub or pan, you would get the same result. A plastic or a flashing provides the best protection because even if moisture gets trapped there, it won't get to the wood at all.
My previous DIY install on this type of acrylic tub, I noticed there was flex on the tub's wall. An accidental kick to this wall may break the caulking and allow water to migrate into the subfloor. I like that you placed a sheet of water barrier. It may be the solution to follow.. But..... Would it be prudent to pre-install both the backer board and tile a few inches inside so the tub's edge sits onto top? I think I know the cons to this method but I'll see what the audience has to say. BTW, I like your presentation/plumbing skills.
If you mean an installation with an acrylic tub and tile on the walls, the intersection between the two is important. Some of the less expensive tubs I will avoid for exactly the reason you mention. As far as backerboard placement, I actually have two videos you should check out on the subject, here: ua-cam.com/video/FYSZQp-Y_kI/v-deo.html and also here: ua-cam.com/video/y3bpE-GhYUM/v-deo.html
Well, there are many types of shower walls, which often are paired with a specific tub. There are also flat panels designed to be glued to a surface. I don't use or recommend those because they look cheap and don't last. So you have to check with the manufacturer about what they recommend for backing. Sometimes it's just the studs. It should never be drywall of any sort, though, in the shower alcove itself.
HELP! Everyone of your videos have walked me step by step on how to demo and remodel my kids bathroom. I'm ready to install up the tile. I do not see a video on how to make measurements for tile installation. Am I overlooking it? I'm using 12x24 tiles in a tub / shower combo if that makes a difference. Thanks!
I have a number of videos on aspects of tiling, including layout, backerboard, the shower/tub lip, grouting and more. If you need some help on laying out the floor, try this: ua-cam.com/video/IsJyfUlLzrg/v-deo.html . The whole bathroom playlist is here: ua-cam.com/play/PLD4oAOZqK9mCjvmw_nUkZBrPPXf_20Lad.html . If you are trying to figure out how much tile to buy, first do your approximate layout. It doesn't have to be perfect, just get a general idea of where the tile will go. Since you are using large tile, it will be pretty easy to count how many tile you need per row, and then count the rows. You'll want extra, of course, because some tile may break or you may make a bad cut, etc.
Is there any type of plastic ring or other kind of seal between the tailpiece and the trap? I've got an old bathroom with a black iron trap that connects to the tailpiece with a threaded pipe nipple that the tailpiece slips into. When i unscrewed the old ring connector i couldn't tell what was actually sealing this joint besides corrosion!
If you have a very old trap of some kind it may be unique or incompatible with modern plumbing. In any case, I never re-use an existing trap, especially if it is steel. As long as you have physical access, you can cut the pipe beyond the trap somewhere and fit in a new trap. The new trap will come with all the parts you need and a diagram showing how they fit together. To fit together the new trap and the old pipe, you'll use a "Fernco" coupling of the correct type. It's a rubber coupling with a stainless steel wrap around the rubber, and two screws to tighten the fitting over both sides of the pipe. Don't go to Lowes or Home Cheapo, find a local plumbing supply store and ask them for help at the counter. They'll get you the right size and model.
@@enduringcharm Thanks. I decided to take your advice and talk to the plumbing supply store. It turns out all I needed a desanco fitting. Currently the trap has an upward facing pipe nipple; the previous install just slipped the tailpiece into that pipe, then threaded down the nut onto the pipe nipple. It's not clear how they got it to seal. There was some residue under the nut, maybe an old gasket, but it looked more like some type of sealant they squeezed in there. It's too tight of a space for me to tackle rebuilding the trap, so I'm hoping this will seal up. The external threads on the nipple are in good shape, so it seems promising.
Okay, a Desanco fitting is another type of adapter which is very common. Glad you got it sorted--it pays to visit a real plumbing supply when the going gets tough.
There are many different tub and pan designs, and not all of them are installed the same way. This particular one does not use a wall cleat or require a mortar or similar bedding. It has feet moulded into the base. In fact, if you assume the same installation method for all tubs, you can get yourself in trouble. Some fiberglass tubs would crack if you tried to use a wall cleat for support. Some plastic tubs would stain or fail to sit properly if you used a mortar bed. So you need to look at the installation instructions for each tub or pan. That said, it is also true that some manufacturer installation instructions are so generic as to be wrong or the wrong instructions were packaged with the tub or pan. I have seen this many times. I've remodeled 65-70 bathrooms, so I have some favorite brands or types that I use and others I avoid. All I can advise is to keep your wits about you and to examine the installation instructions first, then compare those to the construction of the tub or pan you actually bought. If something doesn't seem right then investigate further.
Hey John, can you tell me the make/model of the P-trap you used? I squinted and saw Charlotte 1-1/2 but I couldn't see any other info on it. I have a "1-1/2 in. Polypropylene P-Trap with Adapter for Tubular Drain Applications" and it looks like the wrong size compared with my other Charlotte 1-1/2 fittings.
Oh, geez, there was nothing special about that trap. I just pick up whatever is available at the time. What you describe comes up as a Home Cheapo sold product, which is fine. If the size looks wrong it's possible somebody returned the package with the wrong parts (common at the box stores) or perhaps you just need a different rubber/plastic ring for where it fits to the rest of the drain, or perhaps the drain pipe needs a different fitting. What doesn't look right to you?
@@enduringcharm A-ha!...I looked at the product listing for the p-trap I bought...seems like the red rubber washer is supposed to go on the outside of the pipe, not the inside like I assumed. Now it fits! Thanks for your reply!
The more likely threat is that you strip the threads of the drain (if it is metal) or break off the "cross" in the middle of the drain opening. These are pretty difficult to tighten anyway, and it's often a two-man job, one below and one up top. Or, the drain is installed before setting the tub/pan. So, it's not very likely you'll crack the tub or pan. It's pretty obvious when the drain is good and tight.
Do you mean the tailpiece lines up with the trap but it isn't long enough? In that event you'll need to source a longer tailpiece, which are readily available. That's what I was talking about at 8:53. Now, if the tail does not even line up with the trap, then you'll need to adjust or re-plumb the trap to put it in the right place. I need to do that for most remodel jobs because the tub or pan is rarely the exact same configuration.
I spend half my life looking for missing materials in Home Cheapo and Lowes! You should be able to find them there, it is a stocked item. However, your local store could be out. Look for a local plumbing supply retailer near you and they'll get you fixed up.
Which, the drain or the trap? Some drain assemblies are made of PVC and you may need to glue parts of those. A PVC or ABS trap which is "buried" without access should also be glued. However, the reality is that sometimes that can't physically be done. There just isn't a way to reach or to fit the parts together in a remodel situation.
The way plumber's putty is applied in this situation is to build up a generous roll of it, and when the drain is tightened the excess will squeeze out. The excess is then put back in the can for future use.
Am I a complete weirdo for see ing this but you know how the mind trys to find a face in objects like clouds for example or like when people see face on Mars when it's just rocks. Anyways I was listening to video and doing something else that I stopped to look up at the video at around 2:30 of video and could swore his buddy was down in the hole waiting patiently. Then he zooms in and you can see the circle cut out was what I thought was head and insulation was skin color and left arm was just insulation. Lol. Kind of gave me chills at first like I saw a 👻. What if someone who lived there before died and was 🧰 plumber or while doing plumbing job as building was being built 😲 he died in tragic accident. watch now this video is gonna go viral . Maybe it's just me sorry for the rant. Really was good video. 👍
Holy overkill. The silicone on the rubber gasket is 100% not needed and if repairs in the future are ever needed that silicone is gonna make it horrible. also used like 5x as much plumbers putty as you need
It may seem like overkill, but it isn't. I have had leaks in the past, which is why I now use silicone in these situations--especially when it is in a third floor condo that could leak below. The quality of both plastic and brass components is so poor now that that a thin rubber gasket just cannot be trusted. As far as the plumber's putty, that's how it is installed. When the drain is tightened, the excess squeezes out and is returned to the jar.
![Bathtub Drain Kit Install [Through Access Panel]](/img/n.gif)
Absolutely the most clear explanation completely in layman's terms to understand the job
As a plumber, i have to say this is actually a pretty solid video. Someone needs to buy my boy a tub wrench though:D.
Ha! I probably have one buried somewhere. The trouble with being a general remodeler is that your collection of specialty tools grows so big that you can no longer find anything you need.
Thank you for the detail on the drain assembly and install, been having a hard time finding that on youtube
Nice video. Lots of videos don’t explain how they magically got drainage to work without leaks.
This was very helpful! I'm about to install my first tub, and I feel much less nervous now.
Outstanding video. Nice work.
I agree working on condos can be a nightmare for sure there's so many curveballs.
Thanks! Yeah, condos and townhouses are not my favorite.
Very good video and thank you for the details regarding working on condos.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Was wondering what type of plastic you use under the bath skirt, I find it's a great idea.
Honestly, it's not that critical. Over the years I've tried sheet plastic of various types but lately I've been using a self stick window and door flashing when I have it on hand because it stays put during construction and I don't have to run to the trailer for the staple gun. The important thing is just to create a barrier there so that any weeping of moisture or water over the years doesn't soak into the plywood underneath and cause rot.
@@enduringcharm I was thinking of using a wood sealant instead for moisture and water. Would that be ok as I don't really have any left over plastic but have plenty of water sealant for wood from a deck project over last summer? And yes I understand I can buy plastic but if I can save why not try?
@ Darkest light That probably would do little. The rot at the edge of a tub or pan occurs over time as moisture seeps in and becomes trapped. Eventually the plywood rots. The wood sealant for decks is meant to provide a film that promotes the runoff of water, as well as UV protection. Since there is nowhere for water to run off at the edge of a tub or pan, you would get the same result. A plastic or a flashing provides the best protection because even if moisture gets trapped there, it won't get to the wood at all.
My previous DIY install on this type of acrylic tub, I noticed there was flex on the tub's wall. An accidental kick to this wall may break the caulking and allow water to migrate into the subfloor. I like that you placed a sheet of water barrier. It may be the solution to follow..
But.....
Would it be prudent to pre-install both the backer board and tile a few inches inside so the tub's edge sits onto top?
I think I know the cons to this method but I'll see what the audience has to say.
BTW, I like your presentation/plumbing skills.
If you mean an installation with an acrylic tub and tile on the walls, the intersection between the two is important. Some of the less expensive tubs I will avoid for exactly the reason you mention. As far as backerboard placement, I actually have two videos you should check out on the subject, here: ua-cam.com/video/FYSZQp-Y_kI/v-deo.html and also here: ua-cam.com/video/y3bpE-GhYUM/v-deo.html
Off the wall question. If I decide to go with the prefab panels, instead of tiling, would I still use cement backer board?
Well, there are many types of shower walls, which often are paired with a specific tub. There are also flat panels designed to be glued to a surface. I don't use or recommend those because they look cheap and don't last. So you have to check with the manufacturer about what they recommend for backing. Sometimes it's just the studs. It should never be drywall of any sort, though, in the shower alcove itself.
Jeez!😖 not looking forward to replacing mine. I already know the headaches im gonna have
HELP! Everyone of your videos have walked me step by step on how to demo and remodel my kids bathroom. I'm ready to install up the tile. I do not see a video on how to make measurements for tile installation. Am I overlooking it? I'm using 12x24 tiles in a tub / shower combo if that makes a difference. Thanks!
I have a number of videos on aspects of tiling, including layout, backerboard, the shower/tub lip, grouting and more. If you need some help on laying out the floor, try this: ua-cam.com/video/IsJyfUlLzrg/v-deo.html . The whole bathroom playlist is here: ua-cam.com/play/PLD4oAOZqK9mCjvmw_nUkZBrPPXf_20Lad.html . If you are trying to figure out how much tile to buy, first do your approximate layout. It doesn't have to be perfect, just get a general idea of where the tile will go. Since you are using large tile, it will be pretty easy to count how many tile you need per row, and then count the rows. You'll want extra, of course, because some tile may break or you may make a bad cut, etc.
@@enduringcharm Thanks so much!
Is there any type of plastic ring or other kind of seal between the tailpiece and the trap? I've got an old bathroom with a black iron trap that connects to the tailpiece with a threaded pipe nipple that the tailpiece slips into. When i unscrewed the old ring connector i couldn't tell what was actually sealing this joint besides corrosion!
If you have a very old trap of some kind it may be unique or incompatible with modern plumbing. In any case, I never re-use an existing trap, especially if it is steel. As long as you have physical access, you can cut the pipe beyond the trap somewhere and fit in a new trap. The new trap will come with all the parts you need and a diagram showing how they fit together. To fit together the new trap and the old pipe, you'll use a "Fernco" coupling of the correct type. It's a rubber coupling with a stainless steel wrap around the rubber, and two screws to tighten the fitting over both sides of the pipe. Don't go to Lowes or Home Cheapo, find a local plumbing supply store and ask them for help at the counter. They'll get you the right size and model.
@@enduringcharm Thanks. I decided to take your advice and talk to the plumbing supply store. It turns out all I needed a desanco fitting. Currently the trap has an upward facing pipe nipple; the previous install just slipped the tailpiece into that pipe, then threaded down the nut onto the pipe nipple. It's not clear how they got it to seal. There was some residue under the nut, maybe an old gasket, but it looked more like some type of sealant they squeezed in there. It's too tight of a space for me to tackle rebuilding the trap, so I'm hoping this will seal up. The external threads on the nipple are in good shape, so it seems promising.
Okay, a Desanco fitting is another type of adapter which is very common. Glad you got it sorted--it pays to visit a real plumbing supply when the going gets tough.
I have a couple concerns. 1 I didn't see you cleet the opposite wall. 2 you didn't put mortar under the tub. Why?
There are many different tub and pan designs, and not all of them are installed the same way. This particular one does not use a wall cleat or require a mortar or similar bedding. It has feet moulded into the base. In fact, if you assume the same installation method for all tubs, you can get yourself in trouble. Some fiberglass tubs would crack if you tried to use a wall cleat for support. Some plastic tubs would stain or fail to sit properly if you used a mortar bed. So you need to look at the installation instructions for each tub or pan. That said, it is also true that some manufacturer installation instructions are so generic as to be wrong or the wrong instructions were packaged with the tub or pan. I have seen this many times. I've remodeled 65-70 bathrooms, so I have some favorite brands or types that I use and others I avoid. All I can advise is to keep your wits about you and to examine the installation instructions first, then compare those to the construction of the tub or pan you actually bought. If something doesn't seem right then investigate further.
Hey John, can you tell me the make/model of the P-trap you used? I squinted and saw Charlotte 1-1/2 but I couldn't see any other info on it. I have a "1-1/2 in. Polypropylene P-Trap with Adapter for Tubular Drain Applications" and it looks like the wrong size compared with my other Charlotte 1-1/2 fittings.
Oh, geez, there was nothing special about that trap. I just pick up whatever is available at the time. What you describe comes up as a Home Cheapo sold product, which is fine. If the size looks wrong it's possible somebody returned the package with the wrong parts (common at the box stores) or perhaps you just need a different rubber/plastic ring for where it fits to the rest of the drain, or perhaps the drain pipe needs a different fitting. What doesn't look right to you?
@@enduringcharm A-ha!...I looked at the product listing for the p-trap I bought...seems like the red rubber washer is supposed to go on the outside of the pipe, not the inside like I assumed. Now it fits! Thanks for your reply!
I have a concern. Is there a chance of over tightening the drain and crack the tub or shower pan?
The more likely threat is that you strip the threads of the drain (if it is metal) or break off the "cross" in the middle of the drain opening. These are pretty difficult to tighten anyway, and it's often a two-man job, one below and one up top. Or, the drain is installed before setting the tub/pan. So, it's not very likely you'll crack the tub or pan. It's pretty obvious when the drain is good and tight.
@@enduringcharm thank you so much for quick response
What to do if the tail piece doesn’t reach the p trap?
Do you mean the tailpiece lines up with the trap but it isn't long enough? In that event you'll need to source a longer tailpiece, which are readily available. That's what I was talking about at 8:53. Now, if the tail does not even line up with the trap, then you'll need to adjust or re-plumb the trap to put it in the right place. I need to do that for most remodel jobs because the tub or pan is rarely the exact same configuration.
Where you buy pipe extensions I can’t find it at homedepot?
I spend half my life looking for missing materials in Home Cheapo and Lowes! You should be able to find them there, it is a stocked item. However, your local store could be out. Look for a local plumbing supply retailer near you and they'll get you fixed up.
Is not have to be glued?
Which, the drain or the trap? Some drain assemblies are made of PVC and you may need to glue parts of those. A PVC or ABS trap which is "buried" without access should also be glued. However, the reality is that sometimes that can't physically be done. There just isn't a way to reach or to fit the parts together in a remodel situation.
Couldn't ind the video on fitting a tub in a small space when you realy have to mess with the walls a lot.
@mark weeden Do you mean this one? ua-cam.com/video/-bViu_9CJ58/v-deo.html
What brand was the tub?
That was part of a shower enclosure made by Stirling Plumbing, a division of Kohler. Readily available at Lowes or Ferguson Plumbing, among others.
Is that a condo?
Yes, that project was a condo, so there was no access from below.
This man used an entire container of plumber's puddy on that drain
The way plumber's putty is applied in this situation is to build up a generous roll of it, and when the drain is tightened the excess will squeeze out. The excess is then put back in the can for future use.
Am I a complete weirdo for see ing this but you know how the mind trys to find a face in objects like clouds for example or like when people see face on Mars when it's just rocks. Anyways I was listening to video and doing something else that I stopped to look up at the video at around 2:30 of video and could swore his buddy was down in the hole waiting patiently. Then he zooms in and you can see the circle cut out was what I thought was head and insulation was skin color and left arm was just insulation. Lol. Kind of gave me chills at first like I saw a 👻. What if someone who lived there before died and was 🧰 plumber or while doing plumbing job as building was being built 😲 he died in
tragic accident. watch now this video is gonna go viral . Maybe it's just me sorry for the rant. Really was good video. 👍
Too much clouds
Holy overkill. The silicone on the rubber gasket is 100% not needed and if repairs in the future are ever needed that silicone is gonna make it horrible. also used like 5x as much plumbers putty as you need
It may seem like overkill, but it isn't. I have had leaks in the past, which is why I now use silicone in these situations--especially when it is in a third floor condo that could leak below. The quality of both plastic and brass components is so poor now that that a thin rubber gasket just cannot be trusted. As far as the plumber's putty, that's how it is installed. When the drain is tightened, the excess squeezes out and is returned to the jar.