Super handy, I saw @RRBuildings had a little guide he used on one of his shorts which gave me the vise grip idea that works for the few times I need to cut furring strips.
I installed my American standard jetted tub & the manufacturer instructions specifically said to nail above flange with nail not contacting flange but as close as possible without touching flange at all & I did mine in mortar just to have a permanent solid bottom
I love this channel. I’m a single woman but these videos are made so simply that it make me want to remodel something. And I like not having music in the videos. Thanks for sharing you skills.
Thank you for taking your time and explaining all the various things, issues, steps and tips. UA-cam is an awesome tool for the DYIs, sure wish it had been around 60 years ago when I first apprentice in the trades. Again, Thanks, you will help a lot of people out there.
We looked at all kinds of tubs, and we decided to go with a traditional steel and porcelain tub. The fiberglass and acrylic tubs seemed to flex to us. We had experience with fiberglass tubs in previous homes, and we just didn't like the noises and the fact they can be scratched easily. I also stuffed the interior of the tub with insulation, and now my wife says the water stays hotter longer, and the insulation also git rid of the hollow sound that tubs can have. All in all, we are happy with it. Thanks for the videos!
Thanks man, your channel is progressing nicely. Way to keep cranking out the content 👊. I want to see more of that garage you showed the other day. I need to get a similar setup where I can have some storage for the rentals/flips and then a setup for the channel where I have everything permanently set and ready to roll for a talking head or stationary video.
I would have put in some insulation around the tub and inside the interior wall cavities while they are open. The insulation around the tub will help maintain warm tub water when taking a bath and the wall insulation helps keep unsightly bathroom sounds from being heard in outside rooms.
@@kamaubilal3904 I cut out the old trap as square as I could make it from above. I cut all the pvc and test fit it before using the PVC glue. I drew lines across the connections and at the depth of the connection with a sharpie so I knew how they went back together before taking it apart to glue. I then glued the entire trap together making sure to force each piece to the right depth and holding it there for a minute or two until the glue set. They had a nasty habit of pushing apart as the glue expanded and dried. I then made sure it still fit including with the tub in place. Then removed the tub and glued the trap in place. The only leak I had was because I didn’t tighten the drain enough because I was afraid of of snapping the fiberglass tub. Make sure you know where the leak will show up and check it regularly for a the first couple of uses.
Nice video thanks! I read all comments especially one professional. Currently I am looing for a tub for renting house yet I see ~20% bad reviews for all tubs below $600. I have a Sterling tub for 10+ years no problem, yet looks like same model also has many negative reviews might due to dropped quality - US vendors keep doing these. All acrylic tub now seem to has fiber, yet either acrylic/fiberglass or mixed none are trustable any more, so I think DIY enforcement, say using the material to seal metal duct, or add foam everywhere, any comments?
Love this vid, but I wish you could show how to do the replacement on a level without access to a crawl space. Hooking up the drain could be much more complicated in that scenario.
Wow. I might not do the project you videoed but there were a lot of learning that I captured that might come handy in other projects. Amazing work. Thank you for sharing
I,ve heard and seen many bathtub installations like this where the contractor really emphasizes NOT drilling into the flange but using a clip that is secured to the stud. Is drilling into the flange creating an opportunity for leaking later or worse yet, cracking?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs not normally. I just wipe the subfloor with a wet sponge first. It's no different than attaching Ditra or Kerdi to it via modified thinset.
I’m curious if you had any issues with the tub drain leaking after install? I haven’t installed my tub yet but will be in the next couple days. It’s the delta 400 but I read online people were having issues with the black base interfering with the way the tub drain would seal to the bottom of the tub and then it would leak. Thanks in advance.
I have this exact tub/shower that has 3 separate walls which are caulked at the seams of the walls and the tub. Water pools on top of the flat surfaces of the tub and turns a pink color. It doesn't drain properly. The water eventually gets in through the caulking and molds start to grow. There are also small hairline cracks in the bottom of the tub. I called the manufacturer and they replaced the tub kit however, the quotes I got to install it are expensive. I am going to build a wall of caulk around the cracks and fill with water. Will monitor it for a few days to make sure the water doesn't leak through the cracks. Once I determine that it isn't leaking, I plan on removing the old caulk, spraying mold killer and recaulking everything. Does this sound to you like the right way to go about it and why is the water pooling on top? Is there a fix for that?
I know somebody install tub a little slope to improve water flow. No matter how, any plastic tub - no matter name they give - below $500 are tend to crack. I have one installed 10 years ago no problem, but from time to time, all big brand US name has poor and poorer quality.
At 0:03 - I always have an irresistible urge to mix up some powdered quick set and fill in the gap around electrical outlet boxes if I have access to the back side as in this video.
You make some of the best DIY videos on UA-cam! Thanks so much. However, my tub is upstairs and the access to the drain is between floors. Not sure how to deal with this. Can you help?
Thanks for the support. Depending on the setup you might have enough access to build up the drain prior to setting the tub. Else you could open up the drywall from the first floor complete the tub project but you will have a bit of drywall and painting once finished.
Does every tub, whether 30" or 32" with the outward curve, have the drain in the same place? My big concern is we want to do an upstairs bath and if the drains don't line up, I have no idea how to fix it since I can't crawl into a crawlspace like you did. Also, do you have a video showing how the wall gets fixed when you are done? My insert now seems to be a once piece tub and wall and it looks like it sits on the wallboard or the wallboard ends all around the front and top lips of the insert.
Why cut corners on cost of tub? Water damage equals rot and mold! You're very thorough with most of the steps involved. After 40 years as a General Contractor I've seen it all. Please don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Next tub invest in a fiber glass reinforced acrylic where the apron is incorporated. As the plumber said in your other review never penetrate the acrylic with fasteners. Always support with Ledgers and a solid base. Water is 8lbs per gallon plus live load. Hope these honest comments help you. Best to you, John
I think these are the approved sealants - DAP® 3.0™ Kitchen, Bath & Plumbing High Performance Sealant - LOCTITE® PL Heavy Duty Sealant - Red Devil® RD3000™ Advanced Kitchen & Bath Sealant - ECO-BOND® Kitchen-Bath-Plumbing Adhesive and Sealant
Never use acrylic tubs, I was a patternmaker for a fiberglass company and have years of experience with acrylic products. I also made a pattern for a bathtub and one piece shower. Always use porcelain tubs and tiles, you will have a system that will last you many years and a finish that will still look good after many years of use. Acrylics were never meant to take the kind of use and cleaning a tub gets. One is a sprayed-on plastic coating on fiberglass the other is steel or cast iron covered in a specialized subset of ceramics melted on at temperatures of about 1,200 deg. There is no comparison between the two products. .
I think US doesn't make iron tub, all imported no matter which brand and all has rust or ceramic layer drop off issue. My Acrylic tub is 10+years but same model like other model < $500 has lots of crack issue these days, I believe most tub you get in US has lower quality now. Stock holder just want to earn on time before they and the brands die.
@@joecox9958 You can still get cast iron tubs made in the US but they are very heavy. The steel tubs are okay now that they have added sound deadeners to them but cast iron is the best.
how do your remove a tub from an existing bathroom where the bathroom is only as wide as the tub ? and how do you put one back into the same place ? enquiring minds want to know.
Going to the room opposite of the plumbing cut from the floor up about 6 in above the tub height cut out wall stud that is in the way slide tub through that hole replace piece of wall stud and sister up another piece at least one foot longer or longer if you can do it. This is a little more work but well worth it and it takes a lot of the worry and aggravation out of it.
If you want one with a cleanout plug, you should have an access door or panel so you can access it. It can be a removable part of the apron or from the wall behind. If you don't install one, don't install the cleanout plug type. Also, those cleanouts can leak, though it is rare, so you should be aware of it.
As a licensed professional plumber, I cringe at videos like this. Where do I begin? First, you should avoid purely acrylic tubs. You want a fiberglass reinforced tub, and the thicker the better. Stick with American Standard, Kohler, Jaccuzi... That thing looks like a cracked tub waiting to happen. The best way to install a tub is to run 1x2 ledger boards under all 3 sides to support the upper part of the tub. Then, you want an additional 2x3 or 2x4 board screwed to the subfloor that will support the side apron. On curved tubs, you may use several blocks. That's far better than that flimsy, flexible piece of plastic. Do a dry run to make sure it all fits and is level, then run a bedding material. Typically, we use ordinary mortar, but there are other appropriate bedding materials. You want to create multiple mounds across the width of the tub taller than the underside of the actual tub surface off the subfloor. It'll squish the mounds and form a bond, just like bricks do. Now, you set the tub after the drain and overflow has been attached and carefully seat the tub until it rests on all 3 ledger boards and it is seated so as the apron is on the subfloor . Use #10 or #12 wood screws with washers (I use a stainless washer) and screw just above the flange on every stud, grabbing the flange with the washers, pulling it snug to the stud. Do NOT screw through the flange as you are creating a possible leak point for water to get into your wall cavity and cause all kinds of problems. Avoid that completely. Let that mortar setup completely. Now, when you install the backer board, you must notch for the screws at the bottom. Remember, your backer only goes to the top of the flange, and not into the flange itself, or any water that may get behind can wick into the backer board and to the studs, etc. Your tub will now support a 400 lb human walking around and leaning all over the ledge WITHOUT CRACKING. This install not only uses an inferior quality tub, almost guaranteeing failure, but that plastic support webbing and on the apron will flex and allow your tub to crack and your pretty new bathroom will need a new tub before long. Don't do it this way!
I'm glad I read your post. I now regret buying this tub(and it's matching surround). Have not installed it yet, your comments make absolute sense and I I'll be doing everything you recommend!
100% agree. I have this tub. It came newly installed in my house when I purchased it. In less than several years, the tub cracked in multiple places from simply dropping a bottle of shampoo on it. The drain it now leaking as well, so I’m pulling that out now to stop water in my basement.
The tub has the same drop of 1/8" from left to right. I know many would say put down a bed of mortar but I am not sure I love that idea with the honeycomb base that comes with the Delta 400 Series. I think I should be fine and will know soon after putting up the walls.
I'm starting a bathroom remodel now and am wanting to do direct to stud however there's 61 inches between the studs because the space had drywall which I pulled out due to it being moldy from a leak. Any advice on how to take up that gap?
I would probably buy some 2x8 or 2x10 boards and rip some furring strips from the board the needed thickness to fit the tub/surround. Just using some brad nails to tack the furring strips to each of the studs.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs any reason I couldn't use half inch plywood? Painted with some waterproofing. I'm not super experienced with home renovation and am not sure I could rip strips correctly sized to do what I need
I'm probably too late since you posted months ago, but for anyone else who might be reading, I would not recommend wood. I mean, you can, but I'm anti-wood in bathrooms after gutting the basement and drywall with mold issues... 😅 Personally I'd try cement backboard if you're going to put up a board to fill the gap. It's more waterproof. I'm not a pro, just a DIYer, so take that with a grain of salt, but just my two cents.
Sorry. Can you explain how you use vise grips tp rip the wood fur strip. I'm confused. You didn't explain or show the setup for that well at all. I've never even heard of that technique before.
You just attach the vise grips at the location on the guard which would provide the desired thickness of the furring strip. The vise grip will ride on the outside of the 2X4 maintaining a consistent thickness across the length of the board. Does that help?
I have a significant lean in my foundation beneath my bathtub, maybe 3-5%. We would like to just fill it up with self leveler for the moment and build on top of that but we do not know if that is a poor idea or not, My guess is that it would probably be far from ideal.
You have a right-hand tub, not left-hand ...you were facing the wrong way when you said that. Manufacturers typically recommends a mortar bed, read the buyer reviews on these acrylic tubs about cracking and breaking. Also, some manufacturers specifically state NOT to use flathead screws and NOT to countersink because it can pull through. They suggest using truss head screws that have a wider, washer-like, head.
Nice, but, that tub is not a standard height tub. It is about 4" taller. If you have room to accommodate those 4", then you are good. However, if you don't plan on raising spout and faucet, than be aware of this detail. Moreover, tub is very thin material. It sounds hollow. If you press on the apron, it will cave in. Lastly, if you purchased the Delta tub surround that Delta sells for this tub - and have a window above the tub - be careful. Tub surround will run into the window. In conclusion, tub looks good in pictures, but in real, it has a "cheap" feel to it. If you doing so much work, go with cast iron tub. It will feel sturdy, won't sound like an empty can when water hits it, and will last forever. Thank you
Ty. Your channel is one of the best making these task simpler.
Thanks for the vise grip tip for cutting strips with a circular saw! I can't believe I didn't think of this. Thanks again!🙂
Super handy, I saw @RRBuildings had a little guide he used on one of his shorts which gave me the vise grip idea that works for the few times I need to cut furring strips.
I installed my American standard jetted tub & the manufacturer instructions specifically said to nail above flange with nail not contacting flange but as close as possible without touching flange at all & I did mine in mortar just to have a permanent solid bottom
I love this channel. I’m a single woman but these videos are made so simply that it make me want to remodel something. And I like not having music in the videos. Thanks for sharing you skills.
Thanks for the support Vickie!
Thank you for taking your time and explaining all the various things, issues, steps and tips.
UA-cam is an awesome tool for the DYIs, sure wish it had been around 60 years ago when I first apprentice in the trades.
Again, Thanks, you will help a lot of people out there.
No doubt! With a little know-how, desire to work, and UA-cam you can get just about anything done.
We looked at all kinds of tubs, and we decided to go with a traditional steel and porcelain tub. The fiberglass and acrylic tubs seemed to flex to us. We had experience with fiberglass tubs in previous homes, and we just didn't like the noises and the fact they can be scratched easily. I also stuffed the interior of the tub with insulation, and now my wife says the water stays hotter longer, and the insulation also git rid of the hollow sound that tubs can have. All in all, we are happy with it. Thanks for the videos!
Good idea with the countersink bits 👍 I will be implementing that one. Those delta tubs are very light and easy to install. Nice work 👍
Thanks man, your channel is progressing nicely. Way to keep cranking out the content 👊. I want to see more of that garage you showed the other day. I need to get a similar setup where I can have some storage for the rentals/flips and then a setup for the channel where I have everything permanently set and ready to roll for a talking head or stationary video.
I would have put in some insulation around the tub and inside the interior wall cavities while they are open. The insulation around the tub will help maintain warm tub water when taking a bath and the wall insulation helps keep unsightly bathroom sounds from being heard in outside rooms.
Whatever ,,,and standard insulation does nothing ,nota for sound prevention
Love your vids. Just did my tub the way you said. I even sat in there when I was done and enjoyed a CAO Italia as a prize.
Nice work! 👊
Absolutely jealous of your access to the p - trap. Just installed two of these tubs in my house where the only plumbing access was from above.
how did that go? I have a similar situation I'm about to tackle. did you wind up having to cut into the ceiling from below? Any tips?
@@kamaubilal3904 I cut out the old trap as square as I could make it from above.
I cut all the pvc and test fit it before using the PVC glue. I drew lines across the connections and at the depth of the connection with a sharpie so I knew how they went back together before taking it apart to glue.
I then glued the entire trap together making sure to force each piece to the right depth and holding it there for a minute or two until the glue set. They had a nasty habit of pushing apart as the glue expanded and dried.
I then made sure it still fit including with the tub in place. Then removed the tub and glued the trap in place.
The only leak I had was because I didn’t tighten the drain enough because I was afraid of of snapping the fiberglass tub. Make sure you know where the leak will show up and check it regularly for a the first couple of uses.
@@paratus04thanks!
Nice video thanks! I read all comments especially one professional. Currently I am looing for a tub for renting house yet I see ~20% bad reviews for all tubs below $600. I have a Sterling tub for 10+ years no problem, yet looks like same model also has many negative reviews might due to dropped quality - US vendors keep doing these. All acrylic tub now seem to has fiber, yet either acrylic/fiberglass or mixed none are trustable any more, so I think DIY enforcement, say using the material to seal metal duct, or add foam everywhere, any comments?
Love this vid, but I wish you could show how to do the replacement on a level without access to a crawl space. Hooking up the drain could be much more complicated in that scenario.
Sharkbite caps on copper pipes so I can keep water on. That is pure genius. I wish I knew this tip before my plumbing projects.
Great video! Wish you would have ran into a few issues so we saw how you fixed them. Maybe on the next remodel.
Yeah, if the floor is way out of wack that can add to the complexity for sure.
Wow. I might not do the project you videoed but there were a lot of learning that I captured that might come handy in other projects. Amazing work. Thank you for sharing
As shown in the video. You have a right hand drain.
That’s why porcelain cast iron tubs last a life time.
I,ve heard and seen many bathtub installations like this where the contractor really emphasizes NOT drilling into the flange but using a clip that is secured to the stud. Is drilling into the flange creating an opportunity for leaking later or worse yet, cracking?
Great video, a massive help! Thank you!
Awesome job and explanation. Thank you once again!
You bet, thanks for the support 👍
good tip, check for fit before trying to fit. fix it first
Did you add a mortar base for this tub to sit on? and how did you level the drain side, since it was not leveled? Thanks
Do you have a video of how to set the pipes for tub install replacement with a slab house?
I always use mortar under the base. Overtime it helps prevent it from squeaking.
Do you guys put down plastic to reduce the moisture going into the subfloor?
@@rm742 I like your comment so I repeated it and told everybody it was my own idea... LOL.. Sorry I did not see your comment below.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs not normally. I just wipe the subfloor with a wet sponge first. It's no different than attaching Ditra or Kerdi to it via modified thinset.
I’m curious if you had any issues with the tub drain leaking after install? I haven’t installed my tub yet but will be in the next couple days. It’s the delta 400 but I read online people were having issues with the black base interfering with the way the tub drain would seal to the bottom of the tub and then it would leak. Thanks in advance.
I have this exact tub/shower that has 3 separate walls which are caulked at the seams of the walls and the tub. Water pools on top of the flat surfaces of the tub and turns a pink color. It doesn't drain properly. The water eventually gets in through the caulking and molds start to grow. There are also small hairline cracks in the bottom of the tub. I called the manufacturer and they replaced the tub kit however, the quotes I got to install it are expensive. I am going to build a wall of caulk around the cracks and fill with water. Will monitor it for a few days to make sure the water doesn't leak through the cracks. Once I determine that it isn't leaking, I plan on removing the old caulk, spraying mold killer and recaulking everything. Does this sound to you like the right way to go about it and why is the water pooling on top? Is there a fix for that?
I know somebody install tub a little slope to improve water flow. No matter how, any plastic tub - no matter name they give - below $500 are tend to crack. I have one installed 10 years ago no problem, but from time to time, all big brand US name has poor and poorer quality.
@@joecox9958 I let a pool of water sit on the cracks for a few days. Nothing leaked
I got the same Delta Classic 400, however the box does not contain the support piece you glue to the side.
You doing great project! I trying fiend how you finishing drywall around it I can’t fiend it ?
If you are looking for tips and instruction on drywall I really like the Vancouver Carpenter's channel ua-cam.com/channels/bZdXox6mKHdcT2QdVT-goQ.html
No thinset/mortar underneath? which drain set you used please? thanks!
At 0:03 - I always have an irresistible urge to mix up some powdered quick set and fill in the gap around electrical outlet boxes if I have access to the back side as in this video.
Dude, yer fine. Only Canada Jeff & Stud Pack are in your league. Many thanks
I'll take it, thx! 👍
Great video! Is there a reason you didn't use a ledger board all the way around? Is it because the black plastic supportive base?
Great job installing! Anyone know of a great video on finishing up the drywall after the surround is installed for my crew?
A yr late, but this guy does produce one. He does series of a complete bathroom remodel from tub, mirror, hooks, towel racks and of course Sheetrock
You make some of the best DIY videos on UA-cam! Thanks so much. However, my tub is upstairs and the access to the drain is between floors. Not sure how to deal with this. Can you help?
Thanks for the support. Depending on the setup you might have enough access to build up the drain prior to setting the tub. Else you could open up the drywall from the first floor complete the tub project but you will have a bit of drywall and painting once finished.
Please show how you installed the tub
Does every tub, whether 30" or 32" with the outward curve, have the drain in the same place? My big concern is we want to do an upstairs bath and if the drains don't line up, I have no idea how to fix it since I can't crawl into a crawlspace like you did. Also, do you have a video showing how the wall gets fixed when you are done? My insert now seems to be a once piece tub and wall and it looks like it sits on the wallboard or the wallboard ends all around the front and top lips of the insert.
All I use is 100% silicone 👍🏾
Why cut corners on cost of tub? Water damage equals rot and mold! You're very thorough with most of the steps involved. After 40 years as a General Contractor I've seen it all. Please don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Next tub invest in a fiber glass reinforced acrylic where the apron is incorporated. As the plumber said in your other review never penetrate the acrylic with fasteners. Always support with Ledgers and a solid base. Water is 8lbs per gallon plus live load.
Hope these honest comments help you.
Best to you,
John
How are you going to install your pex to the copper pipes after the tub is in?
Thanks for the video
Cool guys work in socks 19:50 Nice.
Outstanding
isn't it intentionally low so water moves towards the drain?
at 1:36 you say its a left hand drain? Isn't the reference based on being outside the alcove looking in, so its a right hand drain?
I tried using the dap, amp hybrid sealant and is very difficult. Can you suggest another product easier to work with.
I think these are the approved sealants - DAP® 3.0™ Kitchen, Bath & Plumbing High Performance Sealant
- LOCTITE® PL Heavy Duty Sealant
- Red Devil® RD3000™ Advanced Kitchen & Bath Sealant
- ECO-BOND® Kitchen-Bath-Plumbing Adhesive and Sealant
What size pvc was used for the trap?
Never use acrylic tubs, I was a patternmaker for a fiberglass company and have years of experience with acrylic products. I also made a pattern for a bathtub and one piece shower.
Always use porcelain tubs and tiles, you will have a system that will last you many years and a finish that will still look good after many years of use. Acrylics were never meant to take the kind of use and cleaning a tub gets. One is a sprayed-on plastic coating on fiberglass the other is steel or cast iron covered in a specialized subset of ceramics melted on at temperatures of about 1,200 deg. There is no comparison between the two products.
.
I think US doesn't make iron tub, all imported no matter which brand and all has rust or ceramic layer drop off issue. My Acrylic tub is 10+years but same model like other model < $500 has lots of crack issue these days, I believe most tub you get in US has lower quality now. Stock holder just want to earn on time before they and the brands die.
@@joecox9958 You can still get cast iron tubs made in the US but they are very heavy. The steel tubs are okay now that they have added sound deadeners to them but cast iron is the best.
how do your remove a tub from an existing bathroom where the bathroom is only as wide as the tub ? and how do you put one back into the same place ? enquiring minds want to know.
Break drywall beside the tub to be able to pull up from one side
Going to the room opposite of the plumbing cut from the floor up about 6 in above the tub height cut out wall stud that is in the way slide tub through that hole replace piece of wall stud and sister up another piece at least one foot longer or longer if you can do it. This is a little more work but well worth it and it takes a lot of the worry and aggravation out of it.
Where's the mortar so the tub doesn't squeak when you're standing in it
Don't worry about squeaks before enter the tub trow some rubber ducks in to it 😂😂
Bought this tub not realizing it was part of a wall kit 🤦🏻♂️ time to get craft with the tile
Hi ✋✋just wondering about p trap using with or without cleanout plug? any thoughts.
with cleanout plug would be better so if there is every a clog you could snake it from right there
If you want one with a cleanout plug, you should have an access door or panel so you can access it. It can be a removable part of the apron or from the wall behind. If you don't install one, don't install the cleanout plug type. Also, those cleanouts can leak, though it is rare, so you should be aware of it.
So where is the link to the countersink drill bit? It's not on your Amazon store
As a licensed professional plumber, I cringe at videos like this. Where do I begin? First, you should avoid purely acrylic tubs. You want a fiberglass reinforced tub, and the thicker the better. Stick with American Standard, Kohler, Jaccuzi... That thing looks like a cracked tub waiting to happen. The best way to install a tub is to run 1x2 ledger boards under all 3 sides to support the upper part of the tub. Then, you want an additional 2x3 or 2x4 board screwed to the subfloor that will support the side apron. On curved tubs, you may use several blocks. That's far better than that flimsy, flexible piece of plastic. Do a dry run to make sure it all fits and is level, then run a bedding material. Typically, we use ordinary mortar, but there are other appropriate bedding materials. You want to create multiple mounds across the width of the tub taller than the underside of the actual tub surface off the subfloor. It'll squish the mounds and form a bond, just like bricks do. Now, you set the tub after the drain and overflow has been attached and carefully seat the tub until it rests on all 3 ledger boards and it is seated so as the apron is on the subfloor . Use #10 or #12 wood screws with washers (I use a stainless washer) and screw just above the flange on every stud, grabbing the flange with the washers, pulling it snug to the stud. Do NOT screw through the flange as you are creating a possible leak point for water to get into your wall cavity and cause all kinds of problems. Avoid that completely. Let that mortar setup completely. Now, when you install the backer board, you must notch for the screws at the bottom. Remember, your backer only goes to the top of the flange, and not into the flange itself, or any water that may get behind can wick into the backer board and to the studs, etc. Your tub will now support a 400 lb human walking around and leaning all over the ledge WITHOUT CRACKING. This install not only uses an inferior quality tub, almost guaranteeing failure, but that plastic support webbing and on the apron will flex and allow your tub to crack and your pretty new bathroom will need a new tub before long. Don't do it this way!
I'm glad I read your post. I now regret buying this tub(and it's matching surround). Have not installed it yet, your comments make absolute sense and I I'll be doing everything you recommend!
100% agree. I have this tub. It came newly installed in my house when I purchased it. In less than several years, the tub cracked in multiple places from simply dropping a bottle of shampoo on it. The drain it now leaking as well, so I’m pulling that out now to stop water in my basement.
4q31
Great comment, I recently bought this tub and surround myself and I’m going to definitely reinforce it like you said to do.
Thanks so much for the extra info. I am sure you very well may have saved some people money and frustration.
What if you can’t get to the crawl space
what if you have no access under neith
Love your channel!
What did you do about the 1/8" slope on the drain side of the tube?
The tub has the same drop of 1/8" from left to right. I know many would say put down a bed of mortar but I am not sure I love that idea with the honeycomb base that comes with the Delta 400 Series. I think I should be fine and will know soon after putting up the walls.
I was wondering the same thing. Guessing he just said "send it!"
I'm starting a bathroom remodel now and am wanting to do direct to stud however there's 61 inches between the studs because the space had drywall which I pulled out due to it being moldy from a leak. Any advice on how to take up that gap?
I would probably buy some 2x8 or 2x10 boards and rip some furring strips from the board the needed thickness to fit the tub/surround. Just using some brad nails to tack the furring strips to each of the studs.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs any reason I couldn't use half inch plywood? Painted with some waterproofing. I'm not super experienced with home renovation and am not sure I could rip strips correctly sized to do what I need
I'm probably too late since you posted months ago, but for anyone else who might be reading, I would not recommend wood. I mean, you can, but I'm anti-wood in bathrooms after gutting the basement and drywall with mold issues... 😅
Personally I'd try cement backboard if you're going to put up a board to fill the gap. It's more waterproof.
I'm not a pro, just a DIYer, so take that with a grain of salt, but just my two cents.
Sorry. Can you explain how you use vise grips tp rip the wood fur strip. I'm confused. You didn't explain or show the setup for that well at all. I've never even heard of that technique before.
You just attach the vise grips at the location on the guard which would provide the desired thickness of the furring strip. The vise grip will ride on the outside of the 2X4 maintaining a consistent thickness across the length of the board. Does that help?
I have a significant lean in my foundation beneath my bathtub, maybe 3-5%. We would like to just fill it up with self leveler for the moment and build on top of that but we do not know if that is a poor idea or not, My guess is that it would probably be far from ideal.
You have a right-hand tub, not left-hand ...you were facing the wrong way when you said that. Manufacturers typically recommends a mortar bed, read the buyer reviews on these acrylic tubs about cracking and breaking. Also, some manufacturers specifically state NOT to use flathead screws and NOT to countersink because it can pull through. They suggest using truss head screws that have a wider, washer-like, head.
Good catch!
Can you suggest someone in the Torrington CT area that could install a tub and remove a cast iron tub.
Hey Sharon, sorry I don't have any contacts out in that area. Best of luck.
Isn't the tub supposed to have a little slope towards the front so the water can drain?
I think the desired slope is built into the tub, so when referencing the flange you would want it level or as close as possible is ideal.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs oh ok, thanks
Nice, but, that tub is not a standard height tub. It is about 4" taller. If you have room to accommodate those 4", then you are good. However, if you don't plan on raising spout and faucet, than be aware of this detail. Moreover, tub is very thin material. It sounds hollow. If you press on the apron, it will cave in. Lastly, if you purchased the Delta tub surround that Delta sells for this tub - and have a window above the tub - be careful. Tub surround will run into the window. In conclusion, tub looks good in pictures, but in real, it has a "cheap" feel to it. If you doing so much work, go with cast iron tub. It will feel sturdy, won't sound like an empty can when water hits it, and will last forever. Thank you
even though these things say no mud necessary im still mixing a bag of mortar
You link to the classic 400, which is a curved tub. But your tub in the video is not curved.
Please make video to show us
Better to know how to get an old cast iron tub out of a bathroom!!
Your gonna need a Sawzall yall.
That apron support is pretty flimsy looking
You said "left hand drain like this one" that looks like a right hand drain
Yep, that was a mistake. Thanks for the feedback.
@Everyday Home Repairs np, made me run out to the garage to double check my tub just incase. Thanks for the video.
$1500.00 ? I don’t think so. Not here in Canada in summer of 2022.
I think he meant for the whole bathroom, the tub and surround combo is only like $700 in Idaho.
That's not a left hand drain.
💯 correct, thanks for the correction
just give me a real porcelain claw foot bath.
🤓🖖✌️👍👌😎
This is NOT LEFT hand drain it is clearly RIGHT. LOL
I'm sure you mean well. But I'm 65 I've never needed to install a bathtub.
You are missing out 😁
@Blue Too How many tubs have you installed ?
@Blue Too yeah, you should cut down the trees for wood too. And dig a well by hand.
@@kennypool You're on a DIY home repairs channel complaining about doing work. You're in the wrong place
Old people on the internet 😂
Bad audio on this one. Too bad.
Really? I not saying it is an example of perfect audio but seemed pretty solid on my end. Volume too low?
It was good audio for me
You’re videos are top notch. I just dropped you a comment on IG🔥
Thanks Kris, I appreciate the support. Are you guys flipping houses?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs just wholesaling right now. We are in the process of securing financing to start some fix and flips and rentals.