Thanks for sharing! You say the screws "have to be tightened to 2 Nm." I have an installation tip I'd like to share with anyone installing their own Speedplay Zero cleats. FORGET the damn torque wrench!! Using mine-and tightening to the recommended level-caused my Zero cleats to be nearly impossible to clip into. Do this instead: Get some red threadlock, use your plain phillips head screwdriver, and go around the four screws again and again to make sure all four of them have been evenly turned beyond that first "resistance" bump that's designed into the screws. If you go tighter than this you're going to ruin what is a fairly easy cleat entry process. I've installed almost a dozen Speedplay X pedals over the past decade and used this technique with no problems, and I should have used it on my first pair of Zero cleats. Also, I found the perfect lube in 3-in-One's PTFE lubricant (available at Amazon and elsewhere) after using sprays for years (just because I had that kind in my garage already). The drip applicator helps you get the lube exactly where it needs to be.
Hi Ronald, do you use black flat head bolts to attach the adaptor to Sub 6 sole? It seems to me they are too short and can't provide 5 full turns as Speedplay requires..thanks!
I dont know if I understood that right, but I think you said that they were not seperately for sale until now. So I thought they can be purchased but I did not find anything online. In my standard Version there was only the yellow cover...
MehrPower you can buy the cleat cover in a range of colours from any Speedplay dealer, including me. The cleat surround was only included with Aero pedals until recently. Now it can be bought separately to fill the gap.
Hi, Ronald you have done aero test with madone and canondale. Can you do video about climbing with changing only the frame (wheels, tyres, gears etc. the same). I love look of the madone and I am thinking about buying it but I am a climber not sprinter but I love look of the madone and I do some time trials (I can't have tt bike because I race in u17 and it is not allowed). I have an option of specialized tarmac in peter sagan paint job which is beautifull too. Can you help???
Ronald Kuba I know and I like you I love tech and making little touches to my bike. But this year the most important race for me is GMP ( mountain road polish championships) and new tarmac is a little bit more aero than previouse versions. My time trials are max 13 km so I don't know how much would I save. And it will be more than 200g becasue the specialized frame is a bit cheaper so another thing could be better than if I would buy the madone
And other thing I want to ask you is about wheels. I need 2 pairs one for climbing (tubular) and one for very flat races and time trials (clincher). Which wheels will be the best? (But not as expenaive as enve, zipp). You have avesome videos and I love your bikes too. Kind regards, Mateusz
Allen Lo it's the lightest, most adjustable, most aerodynamic pedal, with the most cornering clearance, different spindle lengths, double sided entry, with the longest lasting cleat that's easiest to walk in and bearings that can be regreased without disassembling anything, plus they look quite cool as well.
@@ronykuba - re long lasting cleat: heard that, too. Apparently quite a few people who bought other systems are pissed having to buy new cleats more than once per season. Expensive and a hassle, plus there's always that period of time where things don't work well any more and you're not yet ready to replace it.
This is to much complications to adjust this cleats and you can never get it right. I have been riding for years and never had any problems with the Shimano cleats. How about the two screws adjusters on the side?
SPD - Don't use unless you are wearing shoes that has no 3 bolt or for MTB. Look - Very Light but cleats wear out fast and the power transfer is not the best. Shimano - heavy compared to the competition but has cleats that have very long wear and much better power transfer. Speedplay - the money no object pedal. Get it if you have the money since they are almost infinitely adjustable.
spds are great for commuting and winter , off road and light use , look is the original road clipless system spdsl is shimanos version both are great for commuting when you dont have to walk around too much even though i walk around in my road shoes all the time , its just not comfy , i have no clue about speed play but i have been told they are highly adjustable and you can choose the float without switching cleats , i have no clue about power transfer ...
I tried Speedplay Zero but they are expensive plastic junk that wears out way too fast and starts to creak when worn more then 50% (requiring lube/WD40). Instead of buying new cleats I bought Shimano 105 kit for the same price and never looked back. One advantage is that Speedplay Zero is easier to clip in very fast.
Detmer you messed up something pretty bad there, I did 25 000km on mine and they are nowhere near being worn, plus I am on my 2nd set of cleats on the training shoes. With Shimano, I would have used at least 5 pairs of cleats by now.
Your video is titled how to install the clear. Yet the part where you actually did any tightening of the screws etc was either skipped of fast forwarded at the end. What’s the point of that??
Never assume anything. I found another video that was much more helpful than this and it went through everything you covered and the whole process from start to finish.
This is the dumbest and unnecessary complicated pedal system that I have ever seen. It can be very tricky to install the cleats. In my case 1 screw on each cleat doesn't seem to engage well with the nut. I have been trying to fix it for at least 30 minutes unsuccessfully. I am looking forward to go back to Shimanos I had enough of this BS
Speedplay Zero in my opinion also has a major design flaw: both the cleat and the pedel are plastic so they both wear out over time. So why the pedal is only partly metal is beyond me...
Thanks for sharing! You say the screws "have to be tightened to 2 Nm." I have an installation tip I'd like to share with anyone installing their own Speedplay Zero cleats. FORGET the damn torque wrench!! Using mine-and tightening to the recommended level-caused my Zero cleats to be nearly impossible to clip into. Do this instead: Get some red threadlock, use your plain phillips head screwdriver, and go around the four screws again and again to make sure all four of them have been evenly turned beyond that first "resistance" bump that's designed into the screws. If you go tighter than this you're going to ruin what is a fairly easy cleat entry process. I've installed almost a dozen Speedplay X pedals over the past decade and used this technique with no problems, and I should have used it on my first pair of Zero cleats. Also, I found the perfect lube in 3-in-One's PTFE lubricant (available at Amazon and elsewhere) after using sprays for years (just because I had that kind in my garage already). The drip applicator helps you get the lube exactly where it needs to be.
Jeez, just install the freaking cleats.
Great video Ronnie!
Remi Minnebo thanks
i was hoping a step by step instruction.
Hi Ronald, do you use black flat head bolts to attach the adaptor to Sub 6 sole? It seems to me they are too short and can't provide 5 full turns as Speedplay requires..thanks!
Hi, I only use the black ones
Where do you got this black aero cover? I only have the yellow ones which not cover the gap
MehrPower I talk about that in the video for at least a minute
I dont know if I understood that right, but I think you said that they were not seperately for sale until now. So I thought they can be purchased but I did not find anything online. In my standard Version there was only the yellow cover...
MehrPower you can buy the cleat cover in a range of colours from any Speedplay dealer, including me. The cleat surround was only included with Aero pedals until recently. Now it can be bought separately to fill the gap.
Have you ever tried Bont Shoes? They are available with 4 Bolts.
not yet
Hi, Ronald you have done aero test with madone and canondale. Can you do video about climbing with changing only the frame (wheels, tyres, gears etc. the same). I love look of the madone and I am thinking about buying it but I am a climber not sprinter but I love look of the madone and I do some time trials (I can't have tt bike because I race in u17 and it is not allowed). I have an option of specialized tarmac in peter sagan paint job which is beautifull too. Can you help???
Mateusz Gajdulewicz the 200g weight difference will never offset the aero disadvantage.
Ronald Kuba I know and I like you I love tech and making little touches to my bike. But this year the most important race for me is GMP ( mountain road polish championships) and new tarmac is a little bit more aero than previouse versions. My time trials are max 13 km so I don't know how much would I save. And it will be more than 200g becasue the specialized frame is a bit cheaper so another thing could be better than if I would buy the madone
And other thing I want to ask you is about wheels. I need 2 pairs one for climbing (tubular) and one for very flat races and time trials (clincher). Which wheels will be the best? (But not as expenaive as enve, zipp). You have avesome videos and I love your bikes too.
Kind regards,
Mateusz
Hed Stinger 3 and Jet 6+9
Hi Ronald, you probably had mentioned in previous video, I just wonder why you chose using speedplay rather than the others pedal system....
Allen Lo it's the lightest, most adjustable, most aerodynamic pedal, with the most cornering clearance, different spindle lengths, double sided entry, with the longest lasting cleat that's easiest to walk in and bearings that can be regreased without disassembling anything, plus they look quite cool as well.
Thank you for your insight.... I am thinking abt switching to speedplay also......
@@ronykuba - re long lasting cleat: heard that, too. Apparently quite a few people who bought other systems are pissed having to buy new cleats more than once per season. Expensive and a hassle, plus there's always that period of time where things don't work well any more and you're not yet ready to replace it.
This is to much complications to adjust this cleats and you can never get it right. I have been riding for years and never had any problems with the Shimano cleats.
How about the two screws adjusters on the side?
What are you thoughts of different cleats(Look, SPD, SPD-SL, Speedplay)?
SPD - Don't use unless you are wearing shoes that has no 3 bolt or for MTB.
Look - Very Light but cleats wear out fast and the power transfer is not the best.
Shimano - heavy compared to the competition but has cleats that have very long wear and much better power transfer.
Speedplay - the money no object pedal. Get it if you have the money since they are almost infinitely adjustable.
spds are great for commuting and winter , off road and light use , look is the original road clipless system spdsl is shimanos version both are great for commuting when you dont have to walk around too much even though i walk around in my road shoes all the time , its just not comfy , i have no clue about speed play but i have been told they are highly adjustable and you can choose the float without switching cleats , i have no clue about power transfer ...
i wanted to know are your TT helmets for protection or aero , do they offer any protection from crashes or are they just for show ??
ca5ualm3dia naturally, they have to pass the same safety tests as any other helmet
I recommend getting a Felo torque screwdriver. I have a review of them on my channel.
thanks for the tip!
I tried Speedplay Zero but they are expensive plastic junk that wears out way too fast and starts to creak when worn more then 50% (requiring lube/WD40). Instead of buying new cleats I bought Shimano 105 kit for the same price and never looked back.
One advantage is that Speedplay Zero is easier to clip in very fast.
Detmer you messed up something pretty bad there, I did 25 000km on mine and they are nowhere near being worn, plus I am on my 2nd set of cleats on the training shoes. With Shimano, I would have used at least 5 pairs of cleats by now.
Your video is titled how to install the clear. Yet the part where you actually did any tightening of the screws etc was either skipped of fast forwarded at the end. What’s the point of that??
The point was to explain the interactions between the parts. I was assuming that people watching this would be familiar with the concept of screws.
Never assume anything. I found another video that was much more helpful than this and it went through everything you covered and the whole process from start to finish.
This is the dumbest and unnecessary complicated pedal system that I have ever seen. It can be very tricky to install the cleats. In my case 1 screw on each cleat doesn't seem to engage well with the nut. I have been trying to fix it for at least 30 minutes unsuccessfully. I am looking forward to go back to Shimanos I had enough of this BS
Speedplay Zero in my opinion also has a major design flaw: both the cleat and the pedel are plastic so they both wear out over time. So why the pedal is only partly metal is beyond me...
Detmer the contact surfaces of both the cleat and pedal are metal.
You talked to much non sense. You didnt show how to install it
what a waste of time