Great job. I wondered why others didnt take the time to show those clips, the offset tabs and how to start from middle out to release them. I figured it out myself after working on first two for 20 minutes, trying to not break them. Once I saw the offset, it was easier on the last two on the windshield. As for the roof clips, you're video got me unstuck on those. Again, didnt want to break them with brute force. You explained to how release them and it worked so easily after that. I got channel cleaned up, added 3M sealant in small bead stream and hopefully this will stop my tiny leak at the roofline/a-pillar. I had no rust underneath the molding, very happy to see that on a 19 year old 2003 Accord.
Wow thank you good sir! Perfectly clear and concise instructions. What is with Honda who generally makes such an amazing car to use such weak garbage trim parts? Mine got ripped off in a car wash! Now need to go find a replacement and attempt to get this done myself. Your video was extremely helpful!
As someone who has spent over 8 thousand dollars on OEM Honda parts for my 09 Accord V6 coupe ..in an attempt to get it back to looking like it did when it rolled off the assembly line... I think I have the right to chime in here... Honda trim parts are not "garbage" or crappy, but many times theyre not built to look amazing for several hundred thousand miles of use like their engines last without any problems. However, WITH PROPER CARE & MAINTENANCE & PREVENTATIVE measures/precautions, the plastic/rubber/trim/molding/interior pieces in a Honda can look great and function great for a long time. If you wait until year 10 to take care of your Honda trim stuff, you might be screwed. If you use ceramic coatings and such and start from day 1 of ownership, Honda stuff WILL last. And things like dont leave your car in the sun all day, park inside. Babying the interior/trim/rubber is worth it for my Honda that I love dearly.
Question: does simply replacing the molding fix the leak issue or should you also run a bead of silicone sealer underneath the molding l, particularly around the weld points?
Just changed mine out, it was much easier than expected. I'd recommend buying a couple of the yellow clips that attach the strip to the windshield though. I had two that the tabs had broken off.
Works for Acura tl as well. Follow these steps. Did this for my vehicle and didn’t break any clips. Another way you can do this is using a dremel tool with a circular cutting bit. If you cut above and below the clips on the windshield area while it’s raised. All you have to do is slide off the rail. Then you can just remove the clips. Be very careful though and only do this if you know what you are doing.
Why would you want to cut them off? And why risk using a Dremmel of all things around a windshield??????? Very bad advice imho. Just stick to what was said in this video.
Man your right, that's a pain in the ass to do. I just did it on my wife's 2011. From the research I did, this seems to be a common problem with leaks on both sides. One caution doing this removal is if you wear glasses make sure to have them tied to your head because your going to get in some funky positions. Start to finish which included sealing with silicone took less than an hour. Oh, unless your a piano player you shouldn't need gloves... And this video saved me!
I would highly recommend anyone who owns an older model Accord to pull the roof trim and inspect the area that is exposed under these pieces. Rust tends to occur at the rear and front of the roof under the trim on Gen 7 Accords. I live in the rust belt, and thought it was just my car. A trip to the wrecking yard revealed many Accords of my generation suffer the same fate. Clean out the junk that has collected in the trough, and tackle any rust before it develops into a huge hole. Hondas have a bad reputation for leaks, and many of the leaks develop at the seams found under this piece of trim. Don't automatically assume it's the sunroof drains that are clogged - sometimes they can be, but poorly sealed seams & rust in this area are far too common. First Honda of many where I've had a roof that started to rust. Quality isn't what it used to be.
@@revanthkr5393 I haven't done a thing yet to repair my issue. I basically only use my Honda as a daily winter driver now. I intend to set some time aside in the spring of 2021. I have some rust bubbles that have formed in addition to the leak. I may have to do more than just seal what is leaking. Advice....and this assumes you dont have rust...clean the area as best you can, and use a good quality silicone sealant. If there is any sign of rust, you will want to remove paint, old sealant, and rust to expose bare metal. Treat the bare metal with a 3M product designed to seal out moisture. Its a liquid you rub on. Then prime and paint. Once the paint has dried, seal the seam again with a good sealant. You will want to monitor the repaired area as rust always returns. You are just buying time. A body shop can do this, too, but they will be reluctant to work on older cars, and they will charge a small fortune. If you take your time at it, you can achieve the same objective without forking out thousands. Oh, if you have an Accord Coupe with a leak, and you ignore it like I did, you can expect the leather in your rear seat to be totally ruined. Over time it gets soaked, and each time it dries, the leather dries up. Eventually it just gets very hard and brittle and breaks apart. I think I now have leaks in the front roof seams as well as the rear as water tends to leak in the front and back. Ah, the joys of living in the rust belt...on the positive side, I have had 14 years of reliable service from my Honda so far. Not pretty any more, but still gets me around. It saves my new cars from the exposure to road salt and winter nonsense.
Hamid Elayyat Were you able to reuse the clips from the old molding or do they stay attached? I found a website that sells the clips and moulding seperately
Very good explanation. Although there isn't video of it happening, I was able to get mine off just from this video. And I have a 2005 so it works for that generation as well
More than 7.5 years later, this video is still relevant & helpful. For those asking about the 2003-2007 Accords, they are very similar. Unfortunately, there are 8 tabs to push in, not 6. According to the Honda Service Manual (same one the dealers use), you push in the center tabs first and work your way outward. The manual has the tabs numbered as such (as you are looking at the clip): 8 6 4 2 1 3 5 7. You simply push the tabs in order as you lift up. Manual cautions not to pry up the clip even if it is hard to release from it's retainer. As you release the tabs, and pull up on the molding, it does get easier. Tools I used? Two wooden paint stir sticks, precision screwdriver, and my hands. I wedged the stir sticks carefully under the molding on both sides of the clip I was working on. This allowed me to easily see the tabs I had to push in. I used a precision screwdriver to push in the tabs - you can use anything that has a point and is small. Third tool was simply my hands. I didn't use the stir sticks or anything else to pry, as prying isn't necessary. As stated in the video, start with the clip closest to the hood & work your way up the windshield. Take your time, and you will be successful. The clip at the top of the windshield & close to the roofline - I'm 5'8" tall, and had to use a step-stool to have better access to the clip. Those who are taller likely won't have this issue. I did one in about 20 minutes, but confident I could cut this time drastically now knowing how it is engineered. Tip - don't perform this in the sun - you'll burn yourself on the glass. This is the best video I've seen so far on this procedure.
@@53blam52 Sorry for the huge delay - I don't have direct experience with the later generations, but Honda is known for keeping certain procedures the same, or very similar, across different generations. My educated guess is that the clips are very similar, and the process will be much the same. On older cars like mine, the clips tend to be brittle from many years in the elements - in certain situations you can expect to replace a few clips as the tabs can sometimes break.
i wish my honda dealer body shop was as smart and patient as you!! they did body work on my car...and half the molding is loose!! i reamed them out. How can you leave something like that in that manner?!!
I just removed mine and of course broke multiple clips, including the ones directly attached to the vehicle( the ones on the windshield). I have some new ones but I can't figure out how to remove them. Anybody know?
Anyone now the part number for 2009 Honda Accord sedan roof moldings? Some videos call it windshield trim or windshield molding. I can't seem to find the part when trying to order online. TIA.
Yo , 12 year old video and Dan you did it again lmao ( idk why i think your name is Dan ) I said thanks Dan your the man out loud when watching this. Very much helpful thanks. 😂
Thank you!!! I have a 2004 body style accord but it should be the same. I have a small water leak from the a pillar and didn't want to tug and break something. Thanks again
Nice job, but man that is complicated. You don't say if you removed them because of leaks but the driver's side on my 2010 honda accord does leak, resulting in the top of the A pillar getting wet. Would a possible remedy be to just run a thin bead of silicone on each side of the strip?
Sometimes the leak comes in through the seam in the roof under the trim. If this is the case, it has nothing to do with the rubber seal around the front or rear windshield. If you do have a leak due to a poorly sealed seam, which tends to be a common Honda issue for several generations now, then cleaning the area & using a good quality sealant will resolve the issue. To be clear, you have to remove the trim, as the roof seam is under this piece. The trim doesn't completely seal the area from debris & water, and wasn't designed to keep water out. The sealant Honda used at the factory on the seams is designed to keep water from entering the cabin, but there are many documented cases where this area has been poorly sealed. Since your car is 9 years old, I'd pull the trim just to check for debris and rust.
@DeepForest My dealer gave me much the same story many years ago when I first started having leaks, though mine were in the rear. Those clips aren't generic, and only available through a Honda dealer, or online via websites such as hondapartsnow.com. Not knowing the specifics of your Acord, I just used a 2010 4-door sedan as an example. Here's a link that will get you started www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2010-honda-accord-4dr_ex-ka-5at/molding.html?PNC=5. BE SURE TO SELECT YOUR OWN VEHICLE - web site link is for reference only. You can actually supply the VIN (U.S. vins only) of your car & it'll determine the vehicle for you - hopefully you're an American & this will help. If you're a Canadian, or from another country, you can't use your VIN, but you can select your make & model. In this reference, the clips you will most likely break are #15, #16, #17 & #18. They firmly attach to #14 & #19 in the diagram. When removing the roof trim, you are detaching the above four clips from their retainers #34 & #35 in the diagram. These retainers are affixed to the car. You are unlikely to break these. Note about the diagram - if you happen to replace the roof trim, note that the clips #15 through #18 come with the assembly. This is known because there is an outline around the roof trim & it's clips. The retainers are separate. New clips are likely supplied because Honda knows that even it's techs are likely to break clips (possibly only one-time use?). However, these clips are also available separately, and are only a couple of dollars each. As for gorilla tape - you're simply wasting your time & materials, and will only make a mess of the roof trim & the paintwork. As I stated earlier, the roof trim is not designed to seal out the elements, nor was it ever intended to. It's there for appearances only, and to hide the place where there's a welded seam. You can drive the vehicle with the roof trim removed, so even if you do remove the trim and break some clips, it won't be the end of the world. As for the sealant to use - probably a good-quality silicone sealant will do the trick. I would be tempted to use something like an RTV sealant. The original stuff Honda used seems to be a harder material. Hope this helps. If the leak you have isn't coming from the roof seam, the other most likely issue is a clogged drain tube for your sunroof. There are four in total (one in each corner). All of these issues can easily be handled by yourself, and you are unlikely to spend $300 for your own repair.
Another comment - if you are expecting to seal the leak by placing tape over the trim & roof, you would have to cover the entire length of the roof, and even then, you're not completely sealing off the area underneath as water will still get in from the front or rear close to the rear glass & front windshield.
Bought today from dealership - $109 each, and after I showed him the hondapartsonline or whatever website @ $65/each, he gave me a 10% discount. I'm sure shipping on these 8' long boxes would have been expensive so I went ahead and purchased them.
A windshield/glass company fixed mine without removing the trim. They just sealed the windshield. Happened last year and the fix lasted about a year. Charged me $60. When it happened again this year they fixed for free since they did it last year.
If, like me, you don't have the patience and/or dexterity to painstakingly release 48 individual tabs, just give the molding a healthy yank upwards and it'll pop right off. Don't hate me, hate the engineers who designed this monstrosity.
Great job. I wondered why others didnt take the time to show those clips, the offset tabs and how to start from middle out to release them. I figured it out myself after working on first two for 20 minutes, trying to not break them. Once I saw the offset, it was easier on the last two on the windshield.
As for the roof clips, you're video got me unstuck on those. Again, didnt want to break them with brute force. You explained to how release them and it worked so easily after that. I got channel cleaned up, added 3M sealant in small bead stream and hopefully this will stop my tiny leak at the roofline/a-pillar. I had no rust underneath the molding, very happy to see that on a 19 year old 2003 Accord.
Wow thank you good sir! Perfectly clear and concise instructions. What is with Honda who generally makes such an amazing car to use such weak garbage trim parts? Mine got ripped off in a car wash! Now need to go find a replacement and attempt to get this done myself. Your video was extremely helpful!
As someone who has spent over 8 thousand dollars on OEM Honda parts for my 09 Accord V6 coupe ..in an attempt to get it back to looking like it did when it rolled off the assembly line... I think I have the right to chime in here... Honda trim parts are not "garbage" or crappy, but many times theyre not built to look amazing for several hundred thousand miles of use like their engines last without any problems. However, WITH PROPER CARE & MAINTENANCE & PREVENTATIVE measures/precautions, the plastic/rubber/trim/molding/interior pieces in a Honda can look great and function great for a long time. If you wait until year 10 to take care of your Honda trim stuff, you might be screwed. If you use ceramic coatings and such and start from day 1 of ownership, Honda stuff WILL last. And things like dont leave your car in the sun all day, park inside. Babying the interior/trim/rubber is worth it for my Honda that I love dearly.
I am a pretty good Googler and it took me awhile to get the correct verbage to find this video. Thank you sir for making this.
One of the best instructional videos I have seen. Thank you very much, I am going to try taking off the molding on my 2006 Odyssey.
Question: does simply replacing the molding fix the leak issue or should you also run a bead of silicone sealer underneath the molding l, particularly around the weld points?
Just changed mine out, it was much easier than expected. I'd recommend buying a couple of the yellow clips that attach the strip to the windshield though. I had two that the tabs had broken off.
Thanks for the video and detailed steps. You just saved me $169 dollars. Wish you the best!
Works for Acura tl as well. Follow these steps. Did this for my vehicle and didn’t break any clips.
Another way you can do this is using a dremel tool with a circular cutting bit. If you cut above and below the clips on the windshield area while it’s raised. All you have to do is slide off the rail. Then you can just remove the clips. Be very careful though and only do this if you know what you are doing.
Why would you want to cut them off? And why risk using a Dremmel of all things around a windshield??????? Very bad advice imho. Just stick to what was said in this video.
are there nuts/holes under the rail molding to screw on roof racks?
Awesome, Thank you. removing, painting my 03 moldings due to flaking.
Man your right, that's a pain in the ass to do. I just did it on my wife's 2011. From the research I did, this seems to be a common problem with leaks on both sides. One caution doing this removal is if you wear glasses make sure to have them tied to your head because your going to get in some funky positions. Start to finish which included sealing with silicone took less than an hour. Oh, unless your a piano player you shouldn't need gloves... And this video saved me!
Apparently you're not supposed to use Silicone. It's a strict no-no. You're supposed to use a Sealer.
how about the piece that goes parallel across the width of the car at the front of the roof? I think my leak is coming from under there
2019 - still helpful. Actually, probably more helpful now that these cars are 11 years old!
I would highly recommend anyone who owns an older model Accord to pull the roof trim and inspect the area that is exposed under these pieces. Rust tends to occur at the rear and front of the roof under the trim on Gen 7 Accords. I live in the rust belt, and thought it was just my car. A trip to the wrecking yard revealed many Accords of my generation suffer the same fate. Clean out the junk that has collected in the trough, and tackle any rust before it develops into a huge hole. Hondas have a bad reputation for leaks, and many of the leaks develop at the seams found under this piece of trim. Don't automatically assume it's the sunroof drains that are clogged - sometimes they can be, but poorly sealed seams & rust in this area are far too common. First Honda of many where I've had a roof that started to rust. Quality isn't what it used to be.
@@Lambykin 2020 and a heavy rain confirmed a leak. I'm watching this video several times before tackling my 2009 Accord's problem.
@@Lambykin I am facing the same fate , and was wondering what you did to fix it? can it be fixed by silicone adhesive which are used for windshields?
@@revanthkr5393 I haven't done a thing yet to repair my issue. I basically only use my Honda as a daily winter driver now. I intend to set some time aside in the spring of 2021. I have some rust bubbles that have formed in addition to the leak. I may have to do more than just seal what is leaking. Advice....and this assumes you dont have rust...clean the area as best you can, and use a good quality silicone sealant. If there is any sign of rust, you will want to remove paint, old sealant, and rust to expose bare metal. Treat the bare metal with a 3M product designed to seal out moisture. Its a liquid you rub on. Then prime and paint. Once the paint has dried, seal the seam again with a good sealant. You will want to monitor the repaired area as rust always returns. You are just buying time. A body shop can do this, too, but they will be reluctant to work on older cars, and they will charge a small fortune. If you take your time at it, you can achieve the same objective without forking out thousands. Oh, if you have an Accord Coupe with a leak, and you ignore it like I did, you can expect the leather in your rear seat to be totally ruined. Over time it gets soaked, and each time it dries, the leather dries up. Eventually it just gets very hard and brittle and breaks apart. I think I now have leaks in the front roof seams as well as the rear as water tends to leak in the front and back. Ah, the joys of living in the rust belt...on the positive side, I have had 14 years of reliable service from my Honda so far. Not pretty any more, but still gets me around. It saves my new cars from the exposure to road salt and winter nonsense.
Thanks for the video & tips. I just replaced both moldings on my 2010 accord following the tips you provided. Very helpful.
Hamid Elayyat Were you able to reuse the clips from the old molding or do they stay attached? I found a website that sells the clips and moulding seperately
Awesome tutorial! Thanks. Now if I can just find a place to get the new moldings.
Would you happen to know if this method of removing the moldings applies to 2004 model accords?
Very good explanation. Although there isn't video of it happening, I was able to get mine off just from this video. And I have a 2005 so it works for that generation as well
Awesome video, sir! Thank you for contributing to the Accord nation :)
Thank you for the video. It helps alot for me to find out what's going on after my windshield is switched and seeing the molding came up.
Doggy approved is my favorite part.
More than 7.5 years later, this video is still relevant & helpful. For those asking about the 2003-2007 Accords, they are very similar. Unfortunately, there are 8 tabs to push in, not 6. According to the Honda Service Manual (same one the dealers use), you push in the center tabs first and work your way outward. The manual has the tabs numbered as such (as you are looking at the clip): 8 6 4 2 1 3 5 7. You simply push the tabs in order as you lift up. Manual cautions not to pry up the clip even if it is hard to release from it's retainer. As you release the tabs, and pull up on the molding, it does get easier. Tools I used? Two wooden paint stir sticks, precision screwdriver, and my hands. I wedged the stir sticks carefully under the molding on both sides of the clip I was working on. This allowed me to easily see the tabs I had to push in. I used a precision screwdriver to push in the tabs - you can use anything that has a point and is small. Third tool was simply my hands. I didn't use the stir sticks or anything else to pry, as prying isn't necessary. As stated in the video, start with the clip closest to the hood & work your way up the windshield. Take your time, and you will be successful. The clip at the top of the windshield & close to the roofline - I'm 5'8" tall, and had to use a step-stool to have better access to the clip. Those who are taller likely won't have this issue. I did one in about 20 minutes, but confident I could cut this time drastically now knowing how it is engineered. Tip - don't perform this in the sun - you'll burn yourself on the glass. This is the best video I've seen so far on this procedure.
Brad will this process work on my 2016 accord sport?
@@53blam52 Sorry for the huge delay - I don't have direct experience with the later generations, but Honda is known for keeping certain procedures the same, or very similar, across different generations. My educated guess is that the clips are very similar, and the process will be much the same. On older cars like mine, the clips tend to be brittle from many years in the elements - in certain situations you can expect to replace a few clips as the tabs can sometimes break.
Hey Brad, where do you buy new molding for roof trim? Just curious because on my Molding my paint is coming off and I wanted to replace it.
i wish my honda dealer body shop was as smart and patient as you!! they did body work on my car...and half the molding is loose!! i reamed them out. How can you leave something like that in that manner?!!
I just removed mine and of course broke multiple clips, including the ones directly attached to the vehicle( the ones on the windshield). I have some new ones but I can't figure out how to remove them. Anybody know?
J
Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you so much for the video. Just saved me time and money. Awesome tutorial.
You saved me today buddy thanks
Very detailed, helpful video. Thanks!
Oh yeah, nice video and nice car.
All doggy approved.
Thank you for the video I have a 2006 Honda and going to try to remove for a water leak problem
I have to remove mine, the passenger side water is leaking inside.
Anyone now the part number for 2009 Honda Accord sedan roof moldings? Some videos call it windshield trim or windshield molding. I can't seem to find the part when trying to order online. TIA.
Hi there, I think it's Honda (73163-SDN-A01)
thanks for sharing. it should be same for 2006 accord isn't it?
Yo , 12 year old video and Dan you did it again lmao ( idk why i think your name is Dan ) I said thanks Dan your the man out loud when watching this. Very much helpful thanks. 😂
Thank you!!! I have a 2004 body style accord but it should be the same. I have a small water leak from the a pillar and didn't want to tug and break something. Thanks again
Thanks for this wonderful video. It was very informative and exactly what I needed to know!
Super helpful.. spot on man
Thank you very much!!
Nice job, but man that is complicated. You don't say if you removed them because of leaks but the driver's side on my 2010 honda accord does leak, resulting in the top of the A pillar getting wet. Would a possible remedy be to just run a thin bead of silicone on each side of the strip?
joseph plumber this means your rubber seal is rolled somewhere
Where, on the windshield, or the roof channel, or where?
Sometimes the leak comes in through the seam in the roof under the trim. If this is the case, it has nothing to do with the rubber seal around the front or rear windshield. If you do have a leak due to a poorly sealed seam, which tends to be a common Honda issue for several generations now, then cleaning the area & using a good quality sealant will resolve the issue. To be clear, you have to remove the trim, as the roof seam is under this piece. The trim doesn't completely seal the area from debris & water, and wasn't designed to keep water out. The sealant Honda used at the factory on the seams is designed to keep water from entering the cabin, but there are many documented cases where this area has been poorly sealed. Since your car is 9 years old, I'd pull the trim just to check for debris and rust.
@DeepForest My dealer gave me much the same story many years ago when I first started having leaks, though mine were in the rear. Those clips aren't generic, and only available through a Honda dealer, or online via websites such as hondapartsnow.com. Not knowing the specifics of your Acord, I just used a 2010 4-door sedan as an example. Here's a link that will get you started www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2010-honda-accord-4dr_ex-ka-5at/molding.html?PNC=5. BE SURE TO SELECT YOUR OWN VEHICLE - web site link is for reference only. You can actually supply the VIN (U.S. vins only) of your car & it'll determine the vehicle for you - hopefully you're an American & this will help. If you're a Canadian, or from another country, you can't use your VIN, but you can select your make & model. In this reference, the clips you will most likely break are #15, #16, #17 & #18. They firmly attach to #14 & #19 in the diagram. When removing the roof trim, you are detaching the above four clips from their retainers #34 & #35 in the diagram. These retainers are affixed to the car. You are unlikely to break these. Note about the diagram - if you happen to replace the roof trim, note that the clips #15 through #18 come with the assembly. This is known because there is an outline around the roof trim & it's clips. The retainers are separate. New clips are likely supplied because Honda knows that even it's techs are likely to break clips (possibly only one-time use?). However, these clips are also available separately, and are only a couple of dollars each. As for gorilla tape - you're simply wasting your time & materials, and will only make a mess of the roof trim & the paintwork. As I stated earlier, the roof trim is not designed to seal out the elements, nor was it ever intended to. It's there for appearances only, and to hide the place where there's a welded seam. You can drive the vehicle with the roof trim removed, so even if you do remove the trim and break some clips, it won't be the end of the world. As for the sealant to use - probably a good-quality silicone sealant will do the trick. I would be tempted to use something like an RTV sealant. The original stuff Honda used seems to be a harder material. Hope this helps. If the leak you have isn't coming from the roof seam, the other most likely issue is a clogged drain tube for your sunroof. There are four in total (one in each corner). All of these issues can easily be handled by yourself, and you are unlikely to spend $300 for your own repair.
Another comment - if you are expecting to seal the leak by placing tape over the trim & roof, you would have to cover the entire length of the roof, and even then, you're not completely sealing off the area underneath as water will still get in from the front or rear close to the rear glass & front windshield.
Huge help thank you
If I break the clips what is the parts number for that?
Hi the genuine part number is Honda (91572-SDA-A01)
Great job explaining this!
Amazing video. Thanks
I have a 2008 civic LX, how much are both roof moldings?
Left and right.
according to the Honda parts company just one molding goes for about $66 USD with the clips included I believe
I just picked up both from Honda a few days ago for my 2009 Civic EX Sedan. They both together cost $198 after tax.
Bought today from dealership - $109 each, and after I showed him the hondapartsonline or whatever website @ $65/each, he gave me a 10% discount. I'm sure shipping on these 8' long boxes would have been expensive so I went ahead and purchased them.
Thanks helped a bit hopefully it is the same for a 2006 honda civic sedan
thanks for the video, it helped a lot!
Thank You Sir
Has any body had their 09 accord with water leaking on passenger pillar when it rains
Damian Santos yup.. looking how to fix it
I finally fixed mine with silicone from auto zone I put silicone on the corner were the window meets the pillar and the leak stopped
Did you take off the trim? And thanks for the reply
You welcome .yes I took off the trim off added the silicone I let it dry and then I put the trim back.
A windshield/glass company fixed mine without removing the trim. They just sealed the windshield. Happened last year and the fix lasted about a year. Charged me $60. When it happened again this year they fixed for free since they did it last year.
Thanks for the help!
Great tutorial Thank you
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Is that a russian accent? where in russia are you from?
Lived all my life in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains
obrigado! (tanks!)
If, like me, you don't have the patience and/or dexterity to painstakingly release 48 individual tabs, just give the molding a healthy yank upwards and it'll pop right off. Don't hate me, hate the engineers who designed this monstrosity.
Thanks!!
thank yas
great video. thank you
Well done thanks