Thank you so much! I watched this video 100 times before replacing my 07 Fit clutch. I'm not naturally talented with mechanics so this was an invaluable resource. Just finished it up today and it drives and shifts!
I just replaced this clutch, there are 4 bolts for the subframe, take them out. You cant fully drop the subframe because of the steering but it makes a world of difference with the rear motor mount clearance.
Replace the clutch myself 2 years ago because of this video, the issue I had was that clearance so thank you very much for the advice. Going back in today to replace the throwout bearing, it's videos like this and people like you who make it possible for a working man to fix his own vehicle.
Suggestion if you’re going to swap a clutch out, spend the extra $15 and replace the pilot bearing with it as well. It’s good preventative maintenance even if it seems fine when you take the old clutch out it’s got a lot of miles on it and its gonna fail before the new clutch does .also resurface the flywheel it’ll prolong the life of your new clutch and it will give a smoother engagement.
Thanks Honda Resource! I just wrapped this job up. I saved $600! I had some input for the less experienced DIY guys that might help. The guys in this video are using impact guns. I dont have those and it makes this job so so much harder. You are not going to be zipping off the bolts like they did. PB Blast EVERY bolt in the video the night before. I live in NE Florida, we dont have road salt or snow and I live 20 miles from the beach. And still every single bolt was a Mother Effer to get off. Once youre under your car trying to get to these bolts, it's MUCH harder than just pointing to them on a car on a lift for the camera. I used a mini sledge hammer to bang on the wrenches and a cheater bar for lots of the bolts despite using Blaster. Buy the Exedy Clutch Kit! (part no. HCK1006)! It is the OEM unit that comes with the car from Honda. It comes with the clutch, pressure plate and all the bearings. The original one in my Fit lasted 250,000 miles. This job is hard. You DONT want to redo it anytime soon. I got mine off eBay for $128 shipped. I'm cheap as heck but this is one part of the car will you will regret it if you go cheap. I use eBay parts from China alot, but definitely not on a clutch. Replace or have your flywheel resurfaced! Your clutch will still slip if you dont. This job takes a long time and you will cry when you put everything back together and realize you have to do it all over again. A new OEM Honda flywheel costs $500 but I got one from Advanced for $123. Its made buy a German company called LUK, they make OEM flywheels for several Car companies like BMW. I decided to risk doing this job without it and then found out my fly wheel had hots spots when I got the old cutch out. I had my car on jack stands for two extra days while I waited for the part. :45 I completely destroyed my passenger side axle nut trying to get it out. (It might be reverse threaded know that I think about...) I ended up chiseling it to pieces and I still couldnt get the axle out of the knuckle/spindle. I didnt even try on the other side. I ended up just popping out the axles other side from the tranny and just moving them out of the way. 2:21 I snapped one the Engine Mount Bolts bc it was seized. These ones are infamous for snapping. Be careful here. 8:28 buy the OEM Honda Super High Temp Urea Grease from eBay. The grease pack in the kit is not even close enough to being enough bc you have to put it on the tranny main shaft and on your axles too if you take them out. 8:43 Flywheel bolts are on there super tight from the factory. If you dont have an impact gun, this part really sucks if your car is on stands. Get a 17mm 12 point socket and grind it way down so that recessed part where the bolt goes is just a hair taller than the flywheel bolt head. This makes it way less easier for the wrench to slip off the bolt while youre turning it. If you round off a flywheel bolt head your are going to be totally screwed. Use high strength thread locker when putting them back in. You dont want to risk it backing out. Lots of vibration here. 8:51 Even if you take the flywheel off, you will have to pry out the pilot bearing from the engine. I didnt have a slide hammer so I just destroyed it out with a screw driver, an old coilover wrench, a mini sledge hammer and PB Blaster. And OMG I wish I had dropped the subframe! Putting the transmission back in way harder than taking it out. Especially if youre not strong enough to bench press that baby back in while also twisting it to line up the splines while still clearing the subframe on back side. Good Luck!
Replacing the clutch master and slave today, hopefully get my easy shifting back. It started not wanting to fully release clutch at stops and hard to get into gears at times. I think clutch still ok since it still spins the wheels on Take off and chirp second gear. Bout to find out, thank you for the content!
Did you guys have to drop the subframe? Service information says you should. We were able to get the transmission out but just couldn’t get it to line back up on install 😞
I thought you were suppose to have the flywheel turned , resurfaced. On breaks you have to have the rotors or drums turned or replaced. Otherwise it will just eat up the pads. I have never fooled around with a clutch before. But I am told it is basically the same idea. Funny thing I have a 2007 fit and it needs a clutch and the AC, only works sometimes. I took it to a shop and the guy said by the way it clicks that is the AC he thought the compressor is going out.
@@hondaresource my clutch failed catastrophically last week (5 of the 6 damper springs came loose, so I couldn't get out of first gear), so my friends and I tackled the clutch today when parts came in. I studied this video left, right, upside down, and sideways, and it helped cut down the process into pieces SO well. We went the route of lowering the subframe without removing it (i.e. loosening the subframe bolts by around 1-1.5 inches), the only thing we got caught up on doing it this way is that the EPS motor (or some EPS module) was bolted down to the subframe (iirc, it was 1 bolt on the driver side near the steering column connection point). The steering rack lowered with the subframe without needing any loosening of fasteners. Other tip is to make sure you have some spare cotter pins handy for the shifter linkages. I broke both of them trying to pull them out. They're thinner than the ones used for the ball joints on the lower control arms and tie rod ends. Otherwise, this video was spot on with nailing the whole removal process if you go the route of leaving the subframe tight. Letting the subframe hang down 1-1.5 inches does make the reinstallation significantly easier, but you may not have a choice if you don't have an impact gun capable of removing the frontward subframe bolts. Definitely make sure to have a 1/2 inch drive impact gun, pneumatic or battery powered, if you want to make loosening the subframe easier on youraelf. Thanks again for making this video ❤️
I am really grateful to have found your video. I have easily removed the drive shaft on the clutch side, but the drive shaft on the engine side is seized in the wheel hub. Is it necessary to remove that side? Could I wait and disconnect it from the transmission when I remove the casing from the clutch side?
I removed the U-shaped bracket that loops around the axle. Unfortunately, the lowest of the three bolts just sheared off and left the bolt stem embedded in the body of the engine. I know - schoolboy error, but I am a complete novice. Do you understand what the function of that bracket is?
I've got mine taken apart right now and for some reason the trans will not come off the block. Took everything off that was taken off in the video and am completely stumped
Hey there - my 2008 was just totalled and I'm attempting to repair it with junkyard parts. The subframe is bent as are the lower control arms. Do you have any tips on removing the subframe? Thanks
How bad was it removing the trans without lowering the subframe? Looking to do this job and it looks pretty straight forward minus that rear mount, I’m stuck doing this job on my back in my driveway and I don’t have much room to lower the subframe. Just trying to gauge what I’m in for before committing to it
@@Pypical I ended up doing the job a couple of weeks ago, and fought the rear mount a bit but with a second set of hands was able to sneak it out. Decided to not fight it when putting the trans back in and lowered the subframe which made things significantly easier. Thanks for responding, and yeah I replaced the full clutch including flywheel and rear main so I wouldn’t have to open it back up again 😅
Hi guys. First amor thanks a lot and appreciated for your time and effort you put for us video repairs tutorials. Anyways I need help in knowing the lower transmission gearbox mount do I need to remove the 3 bolts on the gearbox as well as the 2 bolts on top and bracket too. OR just remove the 1 that's going through the actual mount vertically 17mm I believe, an will it separate from gearbox. I'm tackling this job now an it's a pig of a job to gt all these bolts loosened. Please help thks in advance
Hi brent sorry to jump on ur post. Basically im tackling same mount iv managed to get 2 lower 14mm bolts loose an struggling with 14mm top one. Its so stiff an refusing to loosen etc. Any tips if uv pass that stage already as uv not had reply back yet like me thought I'd ask my friend cheers
@@mannysingh8295 sounds like you're going the same route as me. I believe I shifted to motor froward as far as I could, then accessed the third bolt from the top. I sprayed everything with PB blaster before attempting. Take the time to inspect the rubber half of that mount as well, no better time to replace it
@@hondaresource a real mechanic wouldn’t give a customer a choice like that…. It’s funny that you say that because I just did the clutch in my 08, and the previous owners shop put that same POS disc and pressure plate on and didn’t do the flywheel or either bearing….. and here I am doing it again a few years later but if they would’ve done it right it probably would’ve lasted 15 years.
I'm lost here. You say its a 2007 -2008. Then say it's a first gen. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Fit says 1st gen is 2001 to 2006. I'm guessing this is a 2006... Curious if it makes a difference. Seems important.
Thank you so much! I watched this video 100 times before replacing my 07 Fit clutch. I'm not naturally talented with mechanics so this was an invaluable resource. Just finished it up today and it drives and shifts!
Glad it helped!
I just replaced this clutch, there are 4 bolts for the subframe, take them out. You cant fully drop the subframe because of the steering but it makes a world of difference with the rear motor mount clearance.
Did you drop the whole thing or just enough for clearance?
@@_eddielee I was able to drop it just enough for clearance.
Replace the clutch myself 2 years ago because of this video, the issue I had was that clearance so thank you very much for the advice. Going back in today to replace the throwout bearing, it's videos like this and people like you who make it possible for a working man to fix his own vehicle.
@@DustinDoesStuffdid you disconnect the steering shaft?
@@turblown I don't remember, it's been a couple years.
Thanks. This doesn’t look too bad, but it convinced me I don’t want to do it without a lift in the driveway.
Thank you so much for this! I can do the clutch in my 2007 Fit now because of your help!
Glad to help
It's about that time for my Fit, glad I came across this video!! Thanks guys!! Making sure I Subscribe and set all notifications on!!
Thanks for dropping a vid on this! Been trying to look for one where they explain most of the steps on how to replace the clutch.
I hope it helps you man
Thanks! Managed to get it done at home
Excellent video well explained. Every step😊
Look at Cody snatching batteries up all by himself 😂😂😂 he’s growing up so fast
😓 he's all grown up
Suggestion if you’re going to swap a clutch out, spend the extra $15 and replace the pilot bearing with it as well. It’s good preventative maintenance even if it seems fine when you take the old clutch out it’s got a lot of miles on it and its gonna fail before the new clutch does .also resurface the flywheel it’ll prolong the life of your new clutch and it will give a smoother engagement.
Did you see the condition they left that flywheel in? 😂😂🤔
Vraiment des vrais professionels..Trés bien expliquer en théorie et pratique..Surtout avec les outils nécessaires. hapeau
Awesome vid! Was it the customers preference not to change out the fly wheel or the main seal? Seems like a no brainer since the cars apart already
Yeah, this guy is an absolute hack, you don’t give customers those types of choices
Yoo thank you for this video! Buddy and I did my clutch last weekend.
Glad it helped!
Thanks Honda Resource! I just wrapped this job up. I saved $600! I had some input for the less experienced DIY guys that might help.
The guys in this video are using impact guns. I dont have those and it makes this job so so much harder. You are not going to be zipping off the bolts like they did. PB Blast EVERY bolt in the video the night before. I live in NE Florida, we dont have road salt or snow and I live 20 miles from the beach. And still every single bolt was a Mother Effer to get off. Once youre under your car trying to get to these bolts, it's MUCH harder than just pointing to them on a car on a lift for the camera. I used a mini sledge hammer to bang on the wrenches and a cheater bar for lots of the bolts despite using Blaster.
Buy the Exedy Clutch Kit! (part no. HCK1006)! It is the OEM unit that comes with the car from Honda. It comes with the clutch, pressure plate and all the bearings. The original one in my Fit lasted 250,000 miles. This job is hard. You DONT want to redo it anytime soon. I got mine off eBay for $128 shipped. I'm cheap as heck but this is one part of the car will you will regret it if you go cheap. I use eBay parts from China alot, but definitely not on a clutch.
Replace or have your flywheel resurfaced! Your clutch will still slip if you dont. This job takes a long time and you will cry when you put everything back together and realize you have to do it all over again. A new OEM Honda flywheel costs $500 but I got one from Advanced for $123. Its made buy a German company called LUK, they make OEM flywheels for several Car companies like BMW. I decided to risk doing this job without it and then found out my fly wheel had hots spots when I got the old cutch out. I had my car on jack stands for two extra days while I waited for the part.
:45 I completely destroyed my passenger side axle nut trying to get it out. (It might be reverse threaded know that I think about...) I ended up chiseling it to pieces and I still couldnt get the axle out of the knuckle/spindle. I didnt even try on the other side. I ended up just popping out the axles other side from the tranny and just moving them out of the way.
2:21 I snapped one the Engine Mount Bolts bc it was seized. These ones are infamous for snapping. Be careful here.
8:28 buy the OEM Honda Super High Temp Urea Grease from eBay. The grease pack in the kit is not even close enough to being enough bc you have to put it on the tranny main shaft and on your axles too if you take them out.
8:43 Flywheel bolts are on there super tight from the factory. If you dont have an impact gun, this part really sucks if your car is on stands. Get a 17mm 12 point socket and grind it way down so that recessed part where the bolt goes is just a hair taller than the flywheel bolt head. This makes it way less easier for the wrench to slip off the bolt while youre turning it. If you round off a flywheel bolt head your are going to be totally screwed. Use high strength thread locker when putting them back in. You dont want to risk it backing out. Lots of vibration here.
8:51 Even if you take the flywheel off, you will have to pry out the pilot bearing from the engine. I didnt have a slide hammer so I just destroyed it out with a screw driver, an old coilover wrench, a mini sledge hammer and PB Blaster.
And OMG I wish I had dropped the subframe! Putting the transmission back in way harder than taking it out. Especially if youre not strong enough to bench press that baby back in while also twisting it to line up the splines while still clearing the subframe on back side.
Good Luck!
The tools definitely make it easier.
Nice job. Super helpful in my decision to never try this. Don’t have the right tools for job. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Replacing the clutch master and slave today, hopefully get my easy shifting back. It started not wanting to fully release clutch at stops and hard to get into gears at times. I think clutch still ok since it still spins the wheels on Take off and chirp second gear. Bout to find out, thank you for the content!
Best of luck!
@@hondaresourceone spring popped out of the clutch plate.
Always love your vids maaan!! Doesn’t matter how old they are!😂🤦🏻♂️
Thank you
Did you guys have to drop the subframe? Service information says you should. We were able to get the transmission out but just couldn’t get it to line back up on install 😞
I didn't. It would probably have been easier to in hindsight
Nice Job ….. gives me the confidence to try it on my own
I thought you were suppose to have the flywheel turned , resurfaced. On breaks you have to have the rotors or drums turned or replaced. Otherwise it will just eat up the pads. I have never fooled around with a clutch before. But I am told it is basically the same idea.
Funny thing I have a 2007 fit and it needs a clutch and the AC, only works sometimes. I took it to a shop and the guy said by the way it clicks that is the AC he thought the compressor is going out.
I guess if the flywheel had hotspots or wear. I have never had a flywheel turned. I usually just replace it if I feel its bad.
@@hondaresource it was clearly bad, you are an absolute hack
Bro thanks you made it look so easy and helpful 🙌🏻
Awesome timing on this, one of the few times procrastinating on my clutch replacement pays off lol
Thanks 👍
Good luck man!
Save me 300$ did it my self over the weekend 🙌🏻
@@hondaresource my clutch failed catastrophically last week (5 of the 6 damper springs came loose, so I couldn't get out of first gear), so my friends and I tackled the clutch today when parts came in. I studied this video left, right, upside down, and sideways, and it helped cut down the process into pieces SO well.
We went the route of lowering the subframe without removing it (i.e. loosening the subframe bolts by around 1-1.5 inches), the only thing we got caught up on doing it this way is that the EPS motor (or some EPS module) was bolted down to the subframe (iirc, it was 1 bolt on the driver side near the steering column connection point). The steering rack lowered with the subframe without needing any loosening of fasteners. Other tip is to make sure you have some spare cotter pins handy for the shifter linkages. I broke both of them trying to pull them out. They're thinner than the ones used for the ball joints on the lower control arms and tie rod ends.
Otherwise, this video was spot on with nailing the whole removal process if you go the route of leaving the subframe tight. Letting the subframe hang down 1-1.5 inches does make the reinstallation significantly easier, but you may not have a choice if you don't have an impact gun capable of removing the frontward subframe bolts. Definitely make sure to have a 1/2 inch drive impact gun, pneumatic or battery powered, if you want to make loosening the subframe easier on youraelf.
Thanks again for making this video ❤️
@@RossomeSauce1 I'm glad you found the video helpful!
I am really grateful to have found your video. I have easily removed the drive shaft on the clutch side, but the drive shaft on the engine side is seized in the wheel hub. Is it necessary to remove that side? Could I wait and disconnect it from the transmission when I remove the casing from the clutch side?
honestly I dont remember
Did you have to remove the starter?
I removed the U-shaped bracket that loops around the axle. Unfortunately, the lowest of the three bolts just sheared off and left the bolt stem embedded in the body of the engine. I know - schoolboy error, but I am a complete novice. Do you understand what the function of that bracket is?
This is UA-cam gold!
Thank you
I've got mine taken apart right now and for some reason the trans will not come off the block. Took everything off that was taken off in the video and am completely stumped
Hey there - my 2008 was just totalled and I'm attempting to repair it with junkyard parts. The subframe is bent as are the lower control arms. Do you have any tips on removing the subframe? Thanks
Do you have to remove the lower ball joint to get the axle out? I see you didn’t have to but my axle did not slide out.
Yes
Excellent explanation and vid Great effort and so helpful Thanks
You are welcome!
How bad was it removing the trans without lowering the subframe? Looking to do this job and it looks pretty straight forward minus that rear mount, I’m stuck doing this job on my back in my driveway and I don’t have much room to lower the subframe. Just trying to gauge what I’m in for before committing to it
It was easy for me, but the rear mount is a pain…. Having an offset box end wrench for the rear mount is a must
Also, if the flywheel looks anything like this one does you need to replace it or have it surface
@@Pypical I ended up doing the job a couple of weeks ago, and fought the rear mount a bit but with a second set of hands was able to sneak it out. Decided to not fight it when putting the trans back in and lowered the subframe which made things significantly easier. Thanks for responding, and yeah I replaced the full clutch including flywheel and rear main so I wouldn’t have to open it back up again 😅
How much more time to change out the last barring?
What was wrong with the a/c? I'm having issues with mine
is it worth getting the flywheel resurfaced
Thanks so much for this video!
Awesome video!
Thank you
Hi guys. First amor thanks a lot and appreciated for your time and effort you put for us video repairs tutorials. Anyways I need help in knowing the lower transmission gearbox mount do I need to remove the 3 bolts on the gearbox as well as the 2 bolts on top and bracket too. OR just remove the 1 that's going through the actual mount vertically 17mm I believe, an will it separate from gearbox. I'm tackling this job now an it's a pig of a job to gt all these bolts loosened. Please help thks in advance
I don't recall, it's been a little while since I did this and this is the only fit clutch I've done
Hey man did you end up having to take those bolts out? I’m about to do that but it’ll be hard to get it back in
Thank you very much for the help! :)
Glad to help
@@hondaresource I had really good luck removing the radiator fan, once that was out, the transmission came out very easily.
Great video!
When removing; did you shift the whole engine forward, to sneak past that lower mount at the rear of the transmission?
U my friend cheers
Hi brent sorry to jump on ur post. Basically im tackling same mount iv managed to get 2 lower 14mm bolts loose an struggling with 14mm top one. Its so stiff an refusing to loosen etc. Any tips if uv pass that stage already as uv not had reply back yet like me thought I'd ask my friend cheers
@@mannysingh8295 sounds like you're going the same route as me.
I believe I shifted to motor froward as far as I could, then accessed the third bolt from the top. I sprayed everything with PB blaster before attempting.
Take the time to inspect the rubber half of that mount as well, no better time to replace it
I don't recall honestly. It's been a little while since I've completed this job and it's the only fit clutch I've swapped.
Great video.
Thank you
Problem I have is what size is the clutch cause autozone states it comes with two different sizes ! Is this true
As far as I know, there is only one size.
@@hondaresource just figured out why ....rookies in autozone,always think it's a civic smh.
Greasy fingers all up on that new clutch... 😂
Great video. What is the clutch jut you used? Did it come with the bearing you replaced? Or was that separate? Can you provide links? Thank you !
The one we used was from rockauto.com
@@hondaresource dude do you recommend that brand of clutch?!! About to get it for my Fit! Let me know!
I HAVE IGNITION PROBLEM KEY WONT TURN THE IGNITION PAST 2 KEYS ARE WORN OUT
Gonna try and knock this out no lift.
Good luck!
If you remove the subframe then you need to get a four wheel alignment after the clutch replaced...just saying.
Not on this vehicle
What a bunch of HACKS … you can literally see the hotspots all over that flywheel
What if I informed my customer and they declined 🤷♂️ he's still daily driving it 3 years later issue free
@@hondaresource a real mechanic wouldn’t give a customer a choice like that…. It’s funny that you say that because I just did the clutch in my 08, and the previous owners shop put that same POS disc and pressure plate on and didn’t do the flywheel or either bearing….. and here I am doing it again a few years later but if they would’ve done it right it probably would’ve lasted 15 years.
Where are you located
Alabama
@@hondaresource figures
McClutchem should have done the clutch ..
🧐I see what you did there
19 peter peter is the actual size of the lugs, not millimeter. just saying. ha! no such thing as a MM it's all PP (peter peter) the more you know! lol
🤣🤣🤣I need to do that
🫡
I'm lost here. You say its a 2007 -2008. Then say it's a first gen. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Fit says 1st gen is 2001 to 2006. I'm guessing this is a 2006... Curious if it makes a difference. Seems important.
In the US 07-08 was the first gen
@@hondaresource ok… so this wouldn’t work for an 09’
@@dez7100 nope
@@dez7100 09 is easier