Felt my throwout bearing go and decided the car was worth less than the minumum price quoted by the mechanic. Looked easy. Thought I would have a go at it and just see if I could do it. One month later I am finally done with teardown. Every bolt refused to come out without a fight. Most were rusted beyond reuse. The transmission bolts were fused to the transmission and took a torch and a two foot breakout bar to budge and took most of the hole threads with them. As a result I decided to put in a different transmission. Got inside and the throwout bearing was toast, the clutch was worn to shreds, and the flywheel needed resurfacing. If your Fit is more than ten years old and has a ton of visible rust, just know this will be a helluva job. Wish me luck putting mine back together. Thanks for this excellent video. It and the shop manual are my sacred texts. Could not have got this far without your help!
The very best of luck with the repair. To be fair they call came out of this car with relative ease, although the enivornment the car is from can make a big difference, is this a North Eastern US car? How is the rest of the cars underside for rust? Since i made this video until last week ive been dithering at stripping off all the factory underseal, bringing the underside back to bare metal, applying rust converters, underside paint, and wax to hopefully preserve this Jazz for the future, the underside rust protection is not great on these cars.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV it is in the upstate New York area. So, yes. The whole underside is rusted to hell. Winter did it no favors. Currently putting it back together in negative 7c weather. Super fun lol
Thanks for the movie! I have a USDM 2007 Honda Fit GD3 with 165k miles and the clutch is starting to slip once warmed up and driving aggressively. After a rapid clutch release from stop, the car moves fine but in 3rd, 4th, 5th gear I can rev engine high with no change in speed (slipping). Going to attempt this clutch job without a lift in a month here. Hopefully it lasts until then. What shop manual did you use for all the torque specs?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2010 Honda Fit with 180k miles that is drivable but it's as if it has no torque from 2-5k RPM. Above 5k RPM it feels normal. I am not driving it much because of this though I can get around if I just keep the RPMs high though it is especially tricky on slight inclines from a stop. I almost have to floor it before I get any acceleration at all and then it just creeps forward until I eventually have enough acceleration and RPM to maintain speed. I'm assuming it is the clutch that needs to be replaced.
If the clutch is on its way out do you notice that the engine will rev easily without a noticeable change in speed, ie does it feel like it is slipping? If you go to start the car in 3rd or 5th does it stall quickly, if it doesnt stall quickly then that is also another sign of a failing clutch.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks a lot for the reply and tips! Yep, the rev without speed is really noticeable. I hadn't tried starting in 3rd or 5th until you suggested it. Just did and it stalls pretty fast in 5th but not 3rd. It actually doesn't stall at all on a flat surface in 3rd (with slow clutch release), just moves slowly forward. Also, I noticed earlier today driving that it is actually about 2-4k RPM of "dead space" as opposed to 2-5k as I had mentioned earlier. Normally I try these types of repairs myself but I'm not really equipped for this one so will probably just shop around and get it done. Thanks again for the video to help me make this decision and follow up tips. Really appreciate it!
@@ricknoelle4507 It does sound quite like a clutch, it is quite an involved job and a bit tricky to do at ground level but possible. At the very least you will know what will be involved in getting the clutch replaced.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Quick update from my last reply. After a lot of back and forth, I decided to attempt the repair myself. I have the gear box off and waiting on delivery of a new clutch kit. Just bought a torque wrench for reapplying flywheel bolts. I can't thank you enough for this video. It gave me the confidence to attempt this repair myself and so far it is going well. I'll keep you posted.
@@ricknoelle4507 That is fantastic, really great attitude and i wish you all the best with the rest of the repair. Do let me know how it all goes when it's back together again.
Thank you mate,I have exactly the same problem on Honda Fit 2006 1.4 petrol. @140k miles I don't want to spend much the car drive has power but that loud noise from the front left side sound like gearbox or clutch .you have just inspired me to do it my self although I don't have the tools. any one in England ?
Nowthen AD 0 seconds ago Thanks for the video. I am replacing the clutch on mine. The nearside driveshat pushed out of the hub easily. The offside driveshaft is seized in the wheel hub. Is it necessary to remove it before removing the gearbox?
Hello. Need your thoughts about Honda Jazz/Fit Manual transmission. Can i use the GE 2008 Manual Trans assy for replacement to my GD 2004 1.3 Manuals Transmission? Thank you for your response.
Hi there I really do not know the answer to this, not overly familiar with honda parts compatibilty. Catcar.info is a good website for looking up parts diagrams and part numbers so might be worth checking to see if the older jazz gearbox will fit the newer one.
Hey cool video! Did you hold/suspend the transmission when inserting it back in? I saw the ratchet straps Did you also use the bolts to pull the engine and transmission together and how did you know it was lined up?
Hi there, thanks for the comment. I think looking back at the footage i seem to have used the strap connected to the engine crane. With the car on the 2 post lift it can be too high for the floor jack to lift the gearbox into position to reinstall the mount. Regarding knowing it lined up, its a bit of trial and error, the bolts help guide it in when its close enough but just get them started and then jiggle the gearbox over to the engine. Do not just begin tightening on the bolts as that will cause something to bend and get damaged. Jiggle the gearbox closer to the engine the bolts should go in most of the way by hand and the final tighten is done with hand tools. Its the trickiest part of the job, the one with the most curse words used. I usually consider to be over the hill when the gearbox is back on, the rest of the reassembly normally goes quite smoothly.
Dumb question but the grumbling sound heard in the gearbox when you twisted it with your hand and drill was actually from the transmission being faulty or because you had drained the fluid?
@@CircleCityExplorer Hi I think there might be an extra set of bolts on the torque converter to unbolt before the box comes off, i am not 100% sure as i have not worked on an automatic jazz and i think they used a CVT box. Although generally the process is mostly the same.
do you know what part of the gearbox was making noise? Mine makes the same noise and I've read it may be an input shaft bearing. Do you reckon its not worth rebuilding and should just be replaced?
I think it would be the input shaft bearings. I was never brave enough to strip the jazz gearbox down and i probably shoud have it would have saved running around trying to find a good used one. If you can find a gearbox specialist that can do it for a reasonable price then yes it probably is worth it for a set of bearings. A car i bought more recently and worked on the gearbox was a suzuki alto, same issue with the input shaft bearings although i attempted the fix myself and with new input shaft bearings the car was sorted: ua-cam.com/video/6vr5mF2h7u4/v-deo.html
I had same problem. Service changed LUK cluch and 2 dead bearings from gearbox. Nice video. I wuold like to see more on jazz. Maybe how to do anticorosion, coz in Lithuania we get prety crazy winters. How to change brake fluids and all other fluids properly.
As it happens ive spent about £300 on a plethora of chemicals to rust proof cars from rustbuster. Should do more than 1 car but its a bit more than just spraying a bit of wax under there. It seems to be a problem with any japanse car ive had on the lift they can be quite rusty underneath.
Hi. I don't have the noise you had but I have a different one. A metallic rattle noise coming from gearbox side. It only happens under load, at 2000-2100 rpm . If it's higher gear tends to be louder. Is it possible that this noise could be clutch plate springs loose? It is only happening under load, and only at 2000 rpm . Never when in neutral. Thanks
Hi I have the exact same car, same colour also, 2010 1.2 ivtec, my issue is that I hear a squealing sound like belt slip when in neutral and when I push the clutch to the floor the squealing disappears, my car only has 64k miles, serviced every 5k miles never been abused, what is the cause of this issue, could it be ignored or would need fixed thanks
This car was actually a 1.4 but i think they are very similar mechanically. You can keep on driving the car until it stops, although it may be the gearbox which has bad bearings inside in which case if you drive on then it may make it more expensive for a rebuild, scrapyard gearboxes are a bit of a gamble. It took me 3 goes to get a good one. If its the release bearing then its the cheapest option but still requires the gearbox to come out.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply, would you recommend a gearbox oil change, could that solve it? It's not loud and mostly does it on a cold engine, like the other day I took it to a race track and virtually thrashed the engine and at the end it was silent as ever lol
@@ConnorA21 The gearbox oil is one of those overlooked service items, its not too expensive to change the oil. Draining the old oil will also allow you to give it an inspection to see what sort of condition it is in. The only thing i would advise is getting the correct honda gearbox oil.
The noise when depressing the clutch is what I have in my car at the moment too. Will a clutch change be the solution or will it be an imput shaft bearing?
If the noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in it is likely to be the input shaft bearing. If it remains regardless of the clutch position then its the release bearing. In either instance the gearbox needs to be removed, with the gearbox off its obviously much easier to conclude as to what one is making the noise.
A few things to check, wear in the engine mounts does the engine move about too easily, worn driveshafts, wear to the clutch, oil leaking on the clutch.
Hi there, what part specifically is it you are asking about? As far as i know the jazz and the fit are the same car, just named differently for different markets
thank you so much for this... Will there be any problem if I am using Bosch/castrol manual transmission fluid of the same grade 10w30 or 10w40 because genuine Honda fluid is not available
Im not sure, i went the the honda dealership specifically to get the correct oil, common sense would say oil is oil but i was being pedantic that day haha. May be worth asking on the relevant owners club to determine if other owners who have used different oils had any issues.
I have a problem in which if i drive the car for longer periods and then half press the clutch i hear a buzzing sound from the clutch. If fully depressed or engage it, the noise goes. I cant feel any slipages and car accelerates fine. Any idea? Should I get my clutch replaced.
Its likely to be the release bearing then, does the car make any noise when its sitting in neutral with your foot off the clutch pedal? If its the release bearing you have to remove the gearbox and the bearing comes as part of a clutch kit.
This is to leave it installed in the hub? I generally take a few extra steps in these videos as removing the driveshaft then covers how it on its own can be replaced.
I have an 09 Fit automatic, I get this weird grinding sound going from 2nd to 3rd. It doesn't do that when I give it more acceleration, any idea of the culprit? I would like to teardown and do as much as possible before I just replace it or junk the car.
Hi there, I am not sure about the internals of the automatic box, i believe they were mostly a CVT unit. Possibly as on the owners clubs what the noise could be. I don't know how strong or weak they are, Honda isn't really my area of expertise. If the car is rust free underneath a used box surely would be an option to save the car.
One of those ones that is hard to determine without being there. All bolts definitely removed? Has it cleared the bell-housing or just still on the input shaft?
,teniendo elevador para trabajar parado saca la caja tirado en el suelo ? Y cuando instala la caja no la coloca asta el final , la lleva con los tornillos , eso esta mal ya q puede estropear el disco xq no estan alineadas las estrias .
Yes the car was lowered closer to the ground so i could basically bench press the box out and back into the car. When it goes back in, slide the input shaft into the clutch plate and align up the bolt holes, a couple can be started a few threads to hold it in place as the box is wiggled a bit into place but obviously dont fully tighten on one bolt until the box naturally finds its resting place as that will twist parts and cause damage.
Only replace the clutch when it needs to be replaced ie if you can feel it slipping, its not a mileage dependant service item, the clutch will wear dependant on how the car is driven. Flywheel only really needs to be changed if its damaged, if you feel the slipping and address it early then the flywheel should still be good, if its left then the clutch plate wears down to the rivets which then score the flywheel. It can always be machined down but its not something that needs replaced as often. Unless its a modern diesel with a dual mass flywheel.
@Victor Jones Not sure what the highest milage jazz is. My mums jazz is on 110k now. So far since buying it it has needed the full underside rust protection, check any jazz underneath especially an older MK1 they can get very rusty underneath. My video covering that issue ua-cam.com/video/ecG4PZIYZoo/v-deo.html It also needed the gearbox, as covered in this video. Used it is hard to know what you are getting and a rebuild can work out quite expensive. Nonetheless those items were done last year. I bought my aunt a 2006 1.4 SE with 56,000 miles for £550 back in June, bought on Gumtree. Tidy enough wee car and it drives really well but unfortunately inspecting underneath id say another few winters and it will be in the scrapyard. I actually gave my mums jazz a check over yesterday for the MOT in December and it needs a front shock, that seems to be it for this years parts. Generally apart from the rust and noisy gearboxes they seem easy enough to work on and maintain, the engine should keep on going if kept serviced with the correct oil and fluids. Diesels it depends what you have, a lot of unreliable ones. Although there are still good engines from various brands. The advice would be to avoid any modern one if the driving is predominately shorter runs.
I got the gearbox for this from the local scrapyard, a mate worked there at the time. It cost £100. Although it was a bit of a saga, the first gearbox was either from a civic or mk1 jazz it had the wrong mounts, the second gearbox i got home and found it had watery oil inside, the third gearbox seemed to work. Id say a gearbox might cost a bit more, but it will be a case of ringing round breakers yards or trying ebay for honda jazzes that are for breaking.
As it can be a few weeks between the time i shoot a video and edit it there can be some forgetting exact sizes. Having a rummage through my tool box i only have a 32, 35 and 40mm impact socket bought to do work on PSA cars Looking at this video that socket used is a shallow black socket which looks closest to my 32mm the 35mm is a deep socket. I think its a 32mm just haven't got the jazz to hand to double check
It was done on a lift mostly, a lot easier to get the footage underneath the car (recording with a foot of space used to be quite difficult and did not result in good footage, i have a 106 clutch replacement video done before the lift) But the actual removal of the box i brought the box down to axle stand height as it is easier to manouvre it with it that low, and also to support the engine with the jack when the box is out. Its still very much something that could be done on a floor, the thumbnail image just happened to be a good photo i had when the gearbox was out and sitting beside the car.
peugeotCitroen2CV maybe :/ I’m not sure...a friend replaced my clutch for me, and ever since then I can’t put my car into reverse 😔 like the shifter won’t go down into reverse, and right after he replaced it I also lost fifth gear for like two weeks, but it came back lol
@@jennyfrmthabloq That is unfortunate, reverse is below 5th on these? Perhaps worth having it checked to see if the linkages have been reinstalled correctly.
I think i did it over a few weeks, i get out to the shed after work and recording usually adds a bit of time. If you had a weekend free and just worked at it the job could be done.
@@RichardAmuir-f2l Hello unique username It was not necessary to do work to the flywheel in this instance as the clutch was fine, the input shaft bearings of the gearbox were the issue not the clutch or flywheel. A visual inspection of the flywheel led to the conclusion that it was acceptable to use without any machining work or replacement. The car continues to drive perfectly with no issues related to its gearbox or clutch. However if you are in that area of the car and notice deep scratches or heat marks then to remove the flywheel it is a series of extra bolts and a fee to a machinist to have it resurfaced.
A big project. But hitting the rods with a hammer? I would use a piece of wood to protect the metal. That's how I learned. Lovely garage with a lift! Yes, I am jealous... 😉 Some day I have a garage at home too.
It wasnt actually the tie rods that were being hit with the hammer it was the hub where they go through, the shock of the hammering freed them up. Wood would have reduced the shockwave of the hammer. The proper balljoint splitter was tried but on this car it did not work.
Hi im based in northern Ireland but i dont work as a mechanic, im an engineer but do these videos in my spare time so cant really help there. All in id say the cost to get the parts and labour migbt range from £150-£350 depends on where you go and wheatear they are using genuine parts
At this particular time there was no local businesses that did gearbox rebuilding, the local scrapyard was closer. Now that there is a business that has started up and can rebuild gearboxes i would consider that when going to the effort of removing it, although it would probably have cost about £300 for them to fit new input shaft/whatever other bearings were bad.
Quite possibly depending on where you go and the gearbox is being replaced or rebuilt. I will admit i was lucky in getting a good second hand box so cheap.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV На видео видно что колодки стоят сигнализаторами вниз,а надо вверх.Так как при износе колодки сигнализатор установленный вниз отламывает и тогда владелец не узнает что колодка кончилась.Возможен износ до металла.Надо колодки установить сигнализаторами вверх,при износе он прижимается по ходу движения колеса и начинает противно пищать.Так что я прекрасно понимаю что пишу.8 лет на Хонде отработал.
According to google translate you said “He did not start because it would probably explode” The car has been driving daily since this video was made, no problems with it at all
Felt my throwout bearing go and decided the car was worth less than the minumum price quoted by the mechanic. Looked easy. Thought I would have a go at it and just see if I could do it. One month later I am finally done with teardown. Every bolt refused to come out without a fight. Most were rusted beyond reuse. The transmission bolts were fused to the transmission and took a torch and a two foot breakout bar to budge and took most of the hole threads with them. As a result I decided to put in a different transmission. Got inside and the throwout bearing was toast, the clutch was worn to shreds, and the flywheel needed resurfacing. If your Fit is more than ten years old and has a ton of visible rust, just know this will be a helluva job. Wish me luck putting mine back together. Thanks for this excellent video. It and the shop manual are my sacred texts. Could not have got this far without your help!
The very best of luck with the repair. To be fair they call came out of this car with relative ease, although the enivornment the car is from can make a big difference, is this a North Eastern US car?
How is the rest of the cars underside for rust? Since i made this video until last week ive been dithering at stripping off all the factory underseal, bringing the underside back to bare metal, applying rust converters, underside paint, and wax to hopefully preserve this Jazz for the future, the underside rust protection is not great on these cars.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV it is in the upstate New York area. So, yes. The whole underside is rusted to hell. Winter did it no favors. Currently putting it back together in negative 7c weather. Super fun lol
@@peugeotCitroen2CV finally finished. Thanks for the video. Would not have happened without it.
@@Number8of10 Great to hear you got it finished, happy motoring. Hope that fit holds together through a few more winters for you.
How did the reassembly go? I might consider this repair. I do have some rust however. Was it worth it?
Super nice and very complete tutorial for the honda jazz V2 ! Thank you !!! Bravo !
Thanks for the movie! I have a USDM 2007 Honda Fit GD3 with 165k miles and the clutch is starting to slip once warmed up and driving aggressively. After a rapid clutch release from stop, the car moves fine but in 3rd, 4th, 5th gear I can rev engine high with no change in speed (slipping). Going to attempt this clutch job without a lift in a month here. Hopefully it lasts until then. What shop manual did you use for all the torque specs?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2010 Honda Fit with 180k miles that is drivable but it's as if it has no torque from 2-5k RPM. Above 5k RPM it feels normal. I am not driving it much because of this though I can get around if I just keep the RPMs high though it is especially tricky on slight inclines from a stop. I almost have to floor it before I get any acceleration at all and then it just creeps forward until I eventually have enough acceleration and RPM to maintain speed. I'm assuming it is the clutch that needs to be replaced.
If the clutch is on its way out do you notice that the engine will rev easily without a noticeable change in speed, ie does it feel like it is slipping? If you go to start the car in 3rd or 5th does it stall quickly, if it doesnt stall quickly then that is also another sign of a failing clutch.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks a lot for the reply and tips! Yep, the rev without speed is really noticeable. I hadn't tried starting in 3rd or 5th until you suggested it. Just did and it stalls pretty fast in 5th but not 3rd. It actually doesn't stall at all on a flat surface in 3rd (with slow clutch release), just moves slowly forward. Also, I noticed earlier today driving that it is actually about 2-4k RPM of "dead space" as opposed to 2-5k as I had mentioned earlier. Normally I try these types of repairs myself but I'm not really equipped for this one so will probably just shop around and get it done. Thanks again for the video to help me make this decision and follow up tips. Really appreciate it!
@@ricknoelle4507 It does sound quite like a clutch, it is quite an involved job and a bit tricky to do at ground level but possible. At the very least you will know what will be involved in getting the clutch replaced.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Quick update from my last reply. After a lot of back and forth, I decided to attempt the repair myself. I have the gear box off and waiting on delivery of a new clutch kit. Just bought a torque wrench for reapplying flywheel bolts. I can't thank you enough for this video. It gave me the confidence to attempt this repair myself and so far it is going well. I'll keep you posted.
@@ricknoelle4507
That is fantastic, really great attitude and i wish you all the best with the rest of the repair. Do let me know how it all goes when it's back together again.
Thank you mate,I have exactly the same problem on Honda Fit 2006 1.4 petrol. @140k miles I don't want to spend much the car drive has power but that loud noise from the front left side sound like gearbox or clutch .you have just inspired me to do it my self although I don't have the tools.
any one in England ?
It wouldnt be a hard job for a mechanic to do, but it could cost £4-500 when labour is added in.
Nowthen AD
0 seconds ago
Thanks for the video. I am replacing the clutch on mine. The nearside driveshat pushed out of the hub easily. The offside driveshaft is seized in the wheel hub. Is it necessary to remove it before removing the gearbox?
Hello.
Need your thoughts about Honda Jazz/Fit Manual transmission. Can i use the GE 2008 Manual Trans assy for replacement to my GD 2004 1.3 Manuals Transmission?
Thank you for your response.
Hi there
I really do not know the answer to this, not overly familiar with honda parts compatibilty. Catcar.info is a good website for looking up parts diagrams and part numbers so might be worth checking to see if the older jazz gearbox will fit the newer one.
Awesome video! I am glad to know that I am not the only one who would be swearing up a storm crawling around under the car lol
Ah there was a fair share of expletives yelled at the car, thankfully all edited out haha
Hey cool video! Did you hold/suspend the transmission when inserting it back in? I saw the ratchet straps
Did you also use the bolts to pull the engine and transmission together and how did you know it was lined up?
Hi there, thanks for the comment.
I think looking back at the footage i seem to have used the strap connected to the engine crane. With the car on the 2 post lift it can be too high for the floor jack to lift the gearbox into position to reinstall the mount.
Regarding knowing it lined up, its a bit of trial and error, the bolts help guide it in when its close enough but just get them started and then jiggle the gearbox over to the engine. Do not just begin tightening on the bolts as that will cause something to bend and get damaged. Jiggle the gearbox closer to the engine the bolts should go in most of the way by hand and the final tighten is done with hand tools.
Its the trickiest part of the job, the one with the most curse words used. I usually consider to be over the hill when the gearbox is back on, the rest of the reassembly normally goes quite smoothly.
Dumb question but the grumbling sound heard in the gearbox when you twisted it with your hand and drill was actually from the transmission being faulty or because you had drained the fluid?
Would the process be the same on the automatic I have to replace my rear main seal great vid
@@CircleCityExplorer
Hi
I think there might be an extra set of bolts on the torque converter to unbolt before the box comes off, i am not 100% sure as i have not worked on an automatic jazz and i think they used a CVT box. Although generally the process is mostly the same.
Thank you so much for this video!
Great video! Thank you for the help! 👍
Thanks for the comment.
do you know what part of the gearbox was making noise? Mine makes the same noise and I've read it may be an input shaft bearing. Do you reckon its not worth rebuilding and should just be replaced?
I think it would be the input shaft bearings.
I was never brave enough to strip the jazz gearbox down and i probably shoud have it would have saved running around trying to find a good used one.
If you can find a gearbox specialist that can do it for a reasonable price then yes it probably is worth it for a set of bearings. A car i bought more recently and worked on the gearbox was a suzuki alto, same issue with the input shaft bearings although i attempted the fix myself and with new input shaft bearings the car was sorted:
ua-cam.com/video/6vr5mF2h7u4/v-deo.html
I had same problem. Service changed LUK cluch and 2 dead bearings from gearbox. Nice video. I wuold like to see more on jazz. Maybe how to do anticorosion, coz in Lithuania we get prety crazy winters. How to change brake fluids and all other fluids properly.
As it happens ive spent about £300 on a plethora of chemicals to rust proof cars from rustbuster. Should do more than 1 car but its a bit more than just spraying a bit of wax under there. It seems to be a problem with any japanse car ive had on the lift they can be quite rusty underneath.
Very nice in depth video 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi. I don't have the noise you had but I have a different one. A metallic rattle noise coming from gearbox side. It only happens under load, at 2000-2100 rpm . If it's higher gear tends to be louder. Is it possible that this noise could be clutch plate springs loose? It is only happening under load, and only at 2000 rpm . Never when in neutral. Thanks
Hi, is there any clutch slippage when this happens?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi. No clutch slip. I replaced the clutch, the old one looked good. Now it still rattles but only in 5th gear at the same rpm 🤣🤣🤣.
Hi I have the exact same car, same colour also, 2010 1.2 ivtec, my issue is that I hear a squealing sound like belt slip when in neutral and when I push the clutch to the floor the squealing disappears, my car only has 64k miles, serviced every 5k miles never been abused, what is the cause of this issue, could it be ignored or would need fixed thanks
Could be the bearing he's replacing.
This car was actually a 1.4 but i think they are very similar mechanically.
You can keep on driving the car until it stops, although it may be the gearbox which has bad bearings inside in which case if you drive on then it may make it more expensive for a rebuild, scrapyard gearboxes are a bit of a gamble. It took me 3 goes to get a good one. If its the release bearing then its the cheapest option but still requires the gearbox to come out.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply, would you recommend a gearbox oil change, could that solve it? It's not loud and mostly does it on a cold engine, like the other day I took it to a race track and virtually thrashed the engine and at the end it was silent as ever lol
@@ConnorA21
The gearbox oil is one of those overlooked service items, its not too expensive to change the oil. Draining the old oil will also allow you to give it an inspection to see what sort of condition it is in. The only thing i would advise is getting the correct honda gearbox oil.
The noise when depressing the clutch is what I have in my car at the moment too. Will a clutch change be the solution or will it be an imput shaft bearing?
If the noise goes away when the clutch is pressed in it is likely to be the input shaft bearing. If it remains regardless of the clutch position then its the release bearing. In either instance the gearbox needs to be removed, with the gearbox off its obviously much easier to conclude as to what one is making the noise.
The lovely clever dog again...I love it :)
Would you know the cause of juddering when pulling away in 1sr gear? My clutch has good bite
A few things to check, wear in the engine mounts does the engine move about too easily, worn driveshafts, wear to the clutch, oil leaking on the clutch.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV if your up near Scotland, I will just bring my car to you 😂 you seem the only trusted guy 👍
@@ConnorA21 unfortunately im over in Northern Ireland and i dont do mechanical work full time.
hello, the spare part for the 2009 honda jazz, with what year is it compatible with the fit
Help me pleaseeee
Hi there, what part specifically is it you are asking about?
As far as i know the jazz and the fit are the same car, just named differently for different markets
Oscar moment, BRILLIANT!
thank you so much for this... Will there be any problem if I am using Bosch/castrol manual transmission fluid of the same grade 10w30 or 10w40 because genuine Honda fluid is not available
Im not sure, i went the the honda dealership specifically to get the correct oil, common sense would say oil is oil but i was being pedantic that day haha.
May be worth asking on the relevant owners club to determine if other owners who have used different oils had any issues.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thank you sir... I will ask around more
I have a problem in which if i drive the car for longer periods and then half press the clutch i hear a buzzing sound from the clutch. If fully depressed or engage it, the noise goes. I cant feel any slipages and car accelerates fine. Any idea? Should I get my clutch replaced.
Its likely to be the release bearing then, does the car make any noise when its sitting in neutral with your foot off the clutch pedal?
If its the release bearing you have to remove the gearbox and the bearing comes as part of a clutch kit.
Even more confusingly, the 2007-2008 model year Mk.1 Jazz isn't a GD, it's a GE3 chassis code. Made in China for the EU market.
That is quite strange, im not sure about this model were they built in the UK or Japan?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm pretty sure all the Mk.2 Jazz sold here are made in Swindon, UK. Only the hybrid model was made in Japan.
If you remove the two big lower strut bolts on the gearbox side you can pull the driveshaft out of the box
This is to leave it installed in the hub? I generally take a few extra steps in these videos as removing the driveshaft then covers how it on its own can be replaced.
I have an 09 Fit automatic, I get this weird grinding sound going from 2nd to 3rd. It doesn't do that when I give it more acceleration, any idea of the culprit? I would like to teardown and do as much as possible before I just replace it or junk the car.
Hi there,
I am not sure about the internals of the automatic box, i believe they were mostly a CVT unit.
Possibly as on the owners clubs what the noise could be. I don't know how strong or weak they are, Honda isn't really my area of expertise. If the car is rust free underneath a used box surely would be an option to save the car.
Repairing an auto or CVT is akin to brain surgery
My gearbox wont come off for the life of me, absolutely will not budge tried everything. Any tips ?
One of those ones that is hard to determine without being there.
All bolts definitely removed? Has it cleared the bell-housing or just still on the input shaft?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV everything is out, wiggles and leaves a gap but doesnt want to go. Feels like a stuck dowel
@@RaiderOfTheLost The dowels can stick a wee bit from time to time, are pry bars having any effect on the binding areas?
,teniendo elevador para trabajar parado saca la caja tirado en el suelo ? Y cuando instala la caja no la coloca asta el final , la lleva con los tornillos , eso esta mal ya q puede estropear el disco xq no estan alineadas las estrias .
Yes the car was lowered closer to the ground so i could basically bench press the box out and back into the car.
When it goes back in, slide the input shaft into the clutch plate and align up the bolt holes, a couple can be started a few threads to hold it in place as the box is wiggled a bit into place but obviously dont fully tighten on one bolt until the box naturally finds its resting place as that will twist parts and cause damage.
Watching you do this makes me wanna cry. My GD fit has 180k when should I replace my clutch and flywheel
Only replace the clutch when it needs to be replaced ie if you can feel it slipping, its not a mileage dependant service item, the clutch will wear dependant on how the car is driven.
Flywheel only really needs to be changed if its damaged, if you feel the slipping and address it early then the flywheel should still be good, if its left then the clutch plate wears down to the rivets which then score the flywheel. It can always be machined down but its not something that needs replaced as often. Unless its a modern diesel with a dual mass flywheel.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV ty 🤙
@Victor Jones
Not sure what the highest milage jazz is.
My mums jazz is on 110k now.
So far since buying it it has needed the full underside rust protection, check any jazz underneath especially an older MK1 they can get very rusty underneath.
My video covering that issue ua-cam.com/video/ecG4PZIYZoo/v-deo.html
It also needed the gearbox, as covered in this video. Used it is hard to know what you are getting and a rebuild can work out quite expensive.
Nonetheless those items were done last year.
I bought my aunt a 2006 1.4 SE with 56,000 miles for £550 back in June, bought on Gumtree. Tidy enough wee car and it drives really well but unfortunately inspecting underneath id say another few winters and it will be in the scrapyard.
I actually gave my mums jazz a check over yesterday for the MOT in December and it needs a front shock, that seems to be it for this years parts.
Generally apart from the rust and noisy gearboxes they seem easy enough to work on and maintain, the engine should keep on going if kept serviced with the correct oil and fluids.
Diesels it depends what you have, a lot of unreliable ones. Although there are still good engines from various brands.
The advice would be to avoid any modern one if the driving is predominately shorter runs.
Great. What torque wrench are you using?
I have teng tools torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive for the different range of torques required from time to time.
how easy is it to get one of these gearbox .....where can i purchase it
I got the gearbox for this from the local scrapyard, a mate worked there at the time. It cost £100.
Although it was a bit of a saga, the first gearbox was either from a civic or mk1 jazz it had the wrong mounts, the second gearbox i got home and found it had watery oil inside, the third gearbox seemed to work.
Id say a gearbox might cost a bit more, but it will be a case of ringing round breakers yards or trying ebay for honda jazzes that are for breaking.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks so much for your response
Can I ask the drive shaft nut you said it was a 35 mm I have read it is a 36mm Which is correct?
As it can be a few weeks between the time i shoot a video and edit it there can be some forgetting exact sizes.
Having a rummage through my tool box i only have a 32, 35 and 40mm impact socket bought to do work on PSA cars
Looking at this video that socket used is a shallow black socket which looks closest to my 32mm the 35mm is a deep socket.
I think its a 32mm just haven't got the jazz to hand to double check
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for the reply
Interesting that the thumbnail shows the car jacked up on the floor, like it's for a home repair, but in the video, it's all done on a lift.
It was done on a lift mostly, a lot easier to get the footage underneath the car (recording with a foot of space used to be quite difficult and did not result in good footage, i have a 106 clutch replacement video done before the lift)
But the actual removal of the box i brought the box down to axle stand height as it is easier to manouvre it with it that low, and also to support the engine with the jack when the box is out.
Its still very much something that could be done on a floor, the thumbnail image just happened to be a good photo i had when the gearbox was out and sitting beside the car.
i can’t find anything on the web, but does the jazz have a cable clutch?
No this generation of Jazz and i think the MK1 used a hydraulic clutch.
At 38:52 in the video it shows the slave cylinder being refitted.
Trés bien expliquer...Je dois faire mon embraye( clutch) bientôt..On a Honda jazz 2005...
where to buy the same clutch kit??????????
Hi
Cant remember but most likely it came from a local motor factors nothing particularly special about it
I seriously need you in my life right now. 😩😩😩
Jennifer Becerra
Thanks🤗
Have you some gearbox trouble?
peugeotCitroen2CV maybe :/ I’m not sure...a friend replaced my clutch for me, and ever since then I can’t put my car into reverse 😔 like the shifter won’t go down into reverse, and right after he replaced it I also lost fifth gear for like two weeks, but it came back lol
@@jennyfrmthabloq
That is unfortunate, reverse is below 5th on these? Perhaps worth having it checked to see if the linkages have been reinstalled correctly.
How many hours did it take in total?
I think i did it over a few weeks, i get out to the shed after work and recording usually adds a bit of time. If you had a weekend free and just worked at it the job could be done.
Hey JackNuts
you need to machine the flywheel or use a new flywheel.
@@RichardAmuir-f2l
Hello unique username
It was not necessary to do work to the flywheel in this instance as the clutch was fine, the input shaft bearings of the gearbox were the issue not the clutch or flywheel.
A visual inspection of the flywheel led to the conclusion that it was acceptable to use without any machining work or replacement.
The car continues to drive perfectly with no issues related to its gearbox or clutch.
However if you are in that area of the car and notice deep scratches or heat marks then to remove the flywheel it is a series of extra bolts and a fee to a machinist to have it resurfaced.
brilliant effort Excellent
Thanks for the comment
Thks
nice video
No es fácil ,es un proyecto , por eso cobran ,buen video
I like your video bro
Excellent very very helpful I think you should get a bigger hammer though ha ha
Haha cant have too many hammers.
@ minute 5:00, my driveshaft nuts are 32mm not 35mm. Left hand drive 2007 Fit in North America made in Japan
Thanks for sharing that.
A big project.
But hitting the rods with a hammer?
I would use a piece of wood to protect the metal. That's how I learned.
Lovely garage with a lift! Yes, I am jealous... 😉
Some day I have a garage at home too.
It wasnt actually the tie rods that were being hit with the hammer it was the hub where they go through, the shock of the hammering freed them up. Wood would have reduced the shockwave of the hammer. The proper balljoint splitter was tried but on this car it did not work.
Hi, where are you based and how much would you charge as I need to get this same job done. Please and thanks.
Hi im based in northern Ireland but i dont work as a mechanic, im an engineer but do these videos in my spare time so cant really help there.
All in id say the cost to get the parts and labour migbt range from £150-£350 depends on where you go and wheatear they are using genuine parts
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks for the quick reply. Are there any mechanics or garages you can recommend in England? Thank you.
Why not rebuild?
At this particular time there was no local businesses that did gearbox rebuilding, the local scrapyard was closer.
Now that there is a business that has started up and can rebuild gearboxes i would consider that when going to the effort of removing it, although it would probably have cost about £300 for them to fit new input shaft/whatever other bearings were bad.
Top 👍🏼
Молодец
Thanks
Should’ve just told people it was a race car that’s why the gearbox sounded loud
pano mag palit ng belt
Not a job i have done yet on the jazz, so i cant really describe how it is done.
and they charge £850 -1000 for this
Quite possibly depending on where you go and the gearbox is being replaced or rebuilt. I will admit i was lucky in getting a good second hand box so cheap.
Передние колодки стоят неправильно,надо переставить.
Soemthing about pads requiring rearrangement? I am not sure what you are referring to.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV На видео видно что колодки стоят сигнализаторами вниз,а надо вверх.Так как при износе колодки сигнализатор установленный вниз отламывает и тогда владелец не узнает что колодка кончилась.Возможен износ до металла.Надо колодки установить сигнализаторами вверх,при износе он прижимается по ходу движения колеса и начинает противно пищать.Так что я прекрасно понимаю что пишу.8 лет на Хонде отработал.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV И братан купи себе клипсодёр,отвёрткой ковырять не солидно.
@@ВадимДрандалуш-щ3я
Ah fair enough the brake pads, they are due for a replacement so that will be sorted at the same time.
no dio marcha porque de seguro le explotaba :v
According to google translate you said
“He did not start because it would probably explode”
The car has been driving daily since this video was made, no problems with it at all
@@peugeotCitroen2CV In their country :v is kind of sarcastic, great video BTW