I think only very early Focuses used torque-to-yield bolts on the control arms. Official Ford Factory Service Manuals for the 07 (Last of the first Gens.) and 08 (first of the second gens) only list plain torque numbers, no angle specs.
Correct yet again. This guy did a couple amateur moves. Just because if got done doesn't mean it was good enough. The way he set the control arm at the end was wrong. He set it without it being level first. Premature failure can happen now
Love the commentary. Hahaha. On a serious note, very thorough. Gonna replace mine after finding the ball joints were getting pretty loose when I did my wheel bearing.
Ok this is one great installation video, thank you so much for doing such a thorough job. I have planned on installing complete new front end on my 2000 Focus that from what I think is all original. Since I'm getting sound from my c/v joint anyways, I figure time to do it all to match the slotted drilled rotors I put on lol Better to drive safe rather than worry something might go wrong.
It just happened to ours. The tow truck driver said it was common on earlier Focus models. He said it was usually the passengers side, which was true in our case.
Thanks . I know you're the real deal because you use kroil, the oil that creeps! Best of the best. Anyone thats going to tackle an old rusty job, spritz the bolts the day before a couple times. Doesnt take much. Driving the vehicle vibrates that shit right into the threads. Blaster is nowhere near the same. Nice to have around for good soakings, but kroil....no comparison. Im gonna go do that control arm. Thanks, from a carpenter! Lol. Looks easy enough.
Well thank you for showing me this I have change the sway bars on my vehicle in the inner outer Tyrod and I am getting all of this squeaky noise so now I'm going to change the control arms maybe that will help cuz when you drive the car and you hit a bump it has mad squeaking sound thank you
Joyce Brown your squeaky noice is coming from your emergency brake cable near the rear. Look it up. Trust me on this one. Super common issue. Piece of hose can fix it
Thank you very much I'm going to check out this part that you told me and hopefully that stops the noise but that noise is in the front of the car and not in the back of the car every time you hit a bump it makes Superbad noise like this is just going to fall apart but I will check out this part and see if that changes it thank you
Thank you very much I will check this out because the noise that is coming from the front of the car is very badd every time you hit a bump is sound like the front of the car is gonna fall off like all of the wheels I'll go in and just take off hide a self but thank you
I know it sounds like the front, mine did the same but it ended up being the cable where it goes through the guide loop. It wears through the plastic coating on the cable and squeaks something horrible. Most people cut a piece of rubber hose and wrap around the brake cable and zip tie it to prevent metal to metal contact. Follow the cable from the rear brake forward. You’ll see the loop it goes through. If that’s not it get a can of silicone lubricant spray and spray your rubber bushings one by one and drive after each one you spray. When the squeak goes away you’ve found the culprit.
Good video, but I think you need to center the control arm before you tighten it down. When you popped the ball joint the control arm jumped up with a lot of force. When you put it back together you used a jack to push the ball joint up to the steering knuckle. The travel of the bushings is limited in each direction once locked down. The steering knuckle was still attached to the strut and only moved towards the center. The sway bar links will break with the extra downward movement and start rattling and knocking or even pop out on the original ball joint from the link. I have done the fronts 4 times and put eibach springs on to lower it a couple of inches. The cornering is way better now. For better control of the control arm wrap a chain around the arm by ball joint and bolt it together. After removing the bolt slide a long crow bar through the chain and wedge against sub frame and step on it with force. Ball joint pops right out of the steering knuckle.
Correct, the control arm should be placed in the loaded position, which is nearly level, before the bushing bolts are torqued down. You'll get a lot of premature busing wear without this.
It's not a advisable to reuse stretch bolts. Retorquing can stretch the bolt beyond its limit, increasing the chance of failure. The Ford Focus workshop manuals states all nuts and bolts on the lower suspension should be renewed. Sorry.
Mark Collins Thanks. Was confused by this. I can't see how these bolts really require stretch-clamping accuracy. Not sure I'd re-degree those; pretty useless, but I did learn something new.
Mark Collins I thought they were only used on cylinder heads, you learn something new every day lol. I have to say though, it's good to see things done properly; almost every time I watch something like this, the person do8ng it never tightens using correct torque, they just tighten it right up.
Mark Collins I agree 100% I have a 2008 Ford Focus and I did both lower control arms on my car. Went to torque the first bolt and it snapped before I got to the torque spec.
I just finished doing both sides on my SVT. This video helped me alot, but I couldn't get the ball joint all the way out without removing the rest of the control arm (just a heads up). It went pretty smoothly other than that, and breaking a 21mm socket. I wish I had an impact gun.
Hey man I'm having a hard time trying to find a way to do this crap and you're over here joking around making light of the situation will I just want to let you know that I appreciate it because I'm having a hard time and you're making me bust up laughing forgetting about the you know
No need for thread locker on those bolts,just makes for a headache when the cheapo control arm goes bad.Threadlocker in general is way over used,especially on brake caliper bolts. Tighten the bolts ,all you need to do
I don't know about other models, but if you are changing the left front on a 2003 with an automatic you might want to get a transmission filter and replace it at the same time. I had to drop the transmission pan to get the front bolt out.
Jim B. I loosened the top motor mounts and jacked the engine up enough for a socket wrench. I also have a 2003 Ford Focus Automatic. I tried doing this myself but no luck. One of the nuts was rounded off so i stopped before i made it worse. Noe i have to take mine to an actual mechanic
There is no need..u can put a jack under the control arm to push it up if u want..thanks for commenting and watching...check out the description for a link to my shirt line..thanks
False economy. Buy two new wishbones which come with both bushings preinstalled plus new bottom ball joint preinstalled. Very cheap. Use all new nuts and bolts too.
+klowny1969 I just did mine a week ago on my car, but I'm getting a creaky sound, kind of seems like the ball joint is faulty or something. Not sure if it is just noisy while it breaks in.
I don't understand the use of torque angle gauge @7:30, for the rear inner nut? I've seen a few mechanics not use these for this job. Can you please explain this choice?
I wanna know where i can get Urethane bushings to put in these for my 2008 North American Ford Focus Sedan i got 8 years and 53,000 kilometres out of the original ones.
Folks can anyone help me... the ball joint won't seat properly on either side! I've jacked up for pressure, even lowered the car with wheel back on. No matter what I try it seems to go in cockeyed, maybe because the pinch opening seems to be at a different angle(it doesn't point straight down) . Any ideas would be great.
I got the bolt out holding the ball joint and the steering knuckle. But when trying to pop the ball joint out I'm having a hard time. I've tried using a pickle fork, used the screw driver method but still nothing. Now the rubber is all messed up any ideas?
I did this on my 2005 , I got the control arm off , I put the new one in bolted it all together but I cant get the ball joint in the hole, nomatter what way I turn the wheel or how much I torque on it , it's about an inch away from the hole and cant get it close enough to go in..its really pissing me off
Hey man I really need some help, the bolt that goes through the knuckle that holds the balljoint just wont budge, the hex that I put has been damaged to the point where its as flat as a penny after a solid hour of hammering. Should I just drill it out through the Torx head?
So I got the bolt off using a torch, but my question is. I lifted the control arm to the point where it would be as if it was sitting on the ground. Then I tightened the bolt that goes through the nut (LCA came with new bolt/nut), but it seems the balljoint is not sitting all the way in? I test drove the car and it feels fine, went over some pretty bad roads to see if the ball joint would pop out but it was fine.
klowny1969 The balljoint stud went into the steering knuckle w/o a nut. Then looks like it's seated flush in place and then clamped onto from the bolt.
Great video, about to do this job so thanks very much! A few questions, if you don't mind, on where you've differed on other tutorials I've read/watched: 1. Why use anti-seize instead of threadlocker on the LCA bolts connecting to the subframe? 2. Is the ball joint on the Moog LCA you bought greasable, and did you add grease? 3. I noticed you torqued/tightened the LCA bolts to the subframe prior to jacking up LCA for torquing the pinch bolt, instead of jacking up the LCA before all tightening...does it matter for the LCA bolts whether you jack the LCA beforehand? Thanks again.
i used antisieze because im in the rust belt and everything tends to freeze up with rust here..the lca should be jacked up if the bushings are compressed by the shackles that they go into the frame..if they freely move around..then there is no jacking needed..the pinch bolt..as long as its in, it doesnt matter if its jacked up or not..thanks for watching and please subscribe
I bought and installed a moog control arm for my focus. One year down the road the ball joint is loose and the arm needs replacing, again. Most Moog products are made in China now and the stuff is complete garbage.
I made the same mistake. Bought em because the moog name only. What i learned was, look at the part# on moog control arms. If the part # starts with RK it's Chinese made junk. If it starts with CK it made in the U.S and isn't complete shit.
Yep, 2003 ford focus, It matched up and fit perfect, drives great, but my steering wheel is off to the left when driving straight. Thanks for posting this video though, it helped me a lot @@klowny1969
It just shows how much adjustment to the tie rods that have been made over the years to keep the tires in line. It's normal. Not sure why this guy is saying it isn't.
I can't get that fuckin' ball joint to stay in there. By "all the way in" Does that mean i line up the bolt hole with the grove of the ball joint, or do i literally shove the whole ball joint assembly up into the spindle?
hi klowny,I don't own a torque wrench or air tools,why do these bolts have such a high setting ? Will tightenng them as much as possible by hand be good enough ? I can't imagine them working loose,thanks
+simon Smith technically youre not supposed to..the ones that u use an angle guage are stretch bolts and should technically be used only once..now do people reuse these bolts and not use any guages? Yes they do and they never had any problems
kind of jealous lol, i have a 2001 zx3 and the back 2 of the drivers side lower control arm bolts are seized so badly that a 3/4 drive snap on pneumatic impact cant budge them...the worst part is that they aren't tightened all the way and heating them up doesn't help....not looking forward to cutting them out
klowny1969 oh yeah I tried everything lol, I have never run into anything like this before, like I said I'm down to my last resort of pulling my fender, clearing the wiring out and burning the bolts out, I just hate having to do it cuz I'm going to have to pay someone to weld in New braces if I burn the holes out of shape
Red thread locker? Lol uh no. Anyone who sees this comment, if you want to use thread locker at all(it's not necessary for this application), use the blue kind.
It sounds scary when you say lower control arm, but once you see it done and you show that bitch who is in control, it is really easy. Expect for the trox and ball joint tool, I have every tool I need. I have a cordless DEWALT Impact Wrench that should be able to do the job (up to 300 foot pound of torque). So thanks for the guide, looks like a Saturday afternoon job, a six pack and maybe a couple of hours after that...
Wow really im a female mechanic and i dont appreciate the comment "like a womans shirt u want easy access"would have been a helpful,funny video but just like a man to talk and ruin what could have been an educational video just please dont forget in this day and time we need to speak and treat everyone(men and women with common respect)i know its meant to be harmless and funny but its just so ignorant and we are as a society so far beyond sexist comments like this lol KEEP IT CLASSY IM SURE YOUR DAUGHTER-MOTHER-OR SISTER WOULD FEEL THE SAME GOD BLESS😍😍😍😍😍
@@klowny1969 again i watched this video about fixing cars and truely thought it was very helpful just totally lost all interest when the caveman sexist lame comments started just felt the need to express my thoughts just as you and your husband did thats the great freedom of being an American(freedom of speech) no harm done women have came along way in our society one ignorant man wont stop our success but as a mother of 4 very intelligent females i must speak up and let you know its 2020 lets use more brain cells on the next video GOD BLESS LETS TEACH OUR CHILDREN GREAT MANNERS AND RESPECT FOR ALL!!!(no more communication needed ill find other videos in the future thanks)
I think only very early Focuses used torque-to-yield bolts on the control arms. Official Ford Factory Service Manuals for the 07 (Last of the first Gens.) and 08 (first of the second gens) only list plain torque numbers, no angle specs.
Correct yet again. This guy did a couple amateur moves. Just because if got done doesn't mean it was good enough. The way he set the control arm at the end was wrong. He set it without it being level first. Premature failure can happen now
Do you have the torque specs?
Great job! I appreciate all the details and camera angles. Thank you so much. Keep up the good work!
Thank you sir! Don't forget to subscribe
DUDE! seriously, best video on youtube for this job. No bullshit.
Glad i was able to help..don't forget to subscribe
Welcome back ladies 😉
Just about to do this on my Focus. Vid is a great help!
+Ronald Meijers thanks for watching
Ronald Meijers Was a good video. Good explanations, specifications, camera views (best one done I've seen) and entertainment!
Love the commentary. Hahaha. On a serious note, very thorough. Gonna replace mine after finding the ball joints were getting pretty loose when I did my wheel bearing.
Jared Schwager kool good luck
Ok this is one great installation video, thank you so much for doing such a thorough job. I have planned on installing complete new front end on my 2000 Focus that from what I think is all original. Since I'm getting sound from my c/v joint anyways, I figure time to do it all to match the slotted drilled rotors I put on lol Better to drive safe rather than worry something might go wrong.
Shouldn't the bushes be tightened with the suspension arm in the normal kerb position? This is the make sure the bushes are not pre-torqued....
My son managed to break one of his... not sure what else we're going to find, but this video is going to get us started thanks!
It just happened to ours. The tow truck driver said it was common on earlier Focus models. He said it was usually the passengers side, which was true in our case.
interesting! the torque angle gauge I'm new to this gauge. Could someone give some more info on this process
U did not jack up at ball joint end to ride high level and torque up bolt at front bracket near transmission to 85 ' lbs.
It's working perfectly fine..sometimes real world and textbook can vary..don't forget to subscribe
Nah that bushing is all twisted up when it shouldn't be. Won't be long before it needs replacing again.@@klowny1969
Shouldn't you have jacked the arms up to their normal running position before tightening the bolts so there's no strain on the bushes.
Same show on my '02 Focus, thanks for your work and sharing!
Thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe
Thanks . I know you're the real deal because you use kroil, the oil that creeps! Best of the best. Anyone thats going to tackle an old rusty job, spritz the bolts the day before a couple times. Doesnt take much. Driving the vehicle vibrates that shit right into the threads.
Blaster is nowhere near the same. Nice to have around for good soakings, but kroil....no comparison.
Im gonna go do that control arm. Thanks, from a carpenter! Lol. Looks easy enough.
Thanks! Kroil is one of the best!
Is the angle gauge to set alignment? Is alignment a factor at all when installing these control arms?
Yes the tracking will be out of alignment. You will notice your steering wheel is not in the straight ahead position when driving straight ahead.
Well thank you for showing me this I have change the sway bars on my vehicle in the inner outer Tyrod and I am getting all of this squeaky noise so now I'm going to change the control arms maybe that will help cuz when you drive the car and you hit a bump it has mad squeaking sound thank you
Joyce Brown your squeaky noice is coming from your emergency brake cable near the rear. Look it up. Trust me on this one. Super common issue. Piece of hose can fix it
Thank you very much I'm going to check out this part that you told me and hopefully that stops the noise but that noise is in the front of the car and not in the back of the car every time you hit a bump it makes Superbad noise like this is just going to fall apart but I will check out this part and see if that changes it thank you
Thank you very much I will check this out because the noise that is coming from the front of the car is very badd every time you hit a bump is sound like the front of the car is gonna fall off like all of the wheels I'll go in and just take off hide a self but thank you
I know it sounds like the front, mine did the same but it ended up being the cable where it goes through the guide loop. It wears through the plastic coating on the cable and squeaks something horrible. Most people cut a piece of rubber hose and wrap around the brake cable and zip tie it to prevent metal to metal contact. Follow the cable from the rear brake forward. You’ll see the loop it goes through. If that’s not it get a can of silicone lubricant spray and spray your rubber bushings one by one and drive after each one you spray. When the squeak goes away you’ve found the culprit.
I was looking for how to do the job simply
and I found, ...a big thank you very good video well explained , 👍
Thank you..don't forget to subscribe
Good video, but I think you need to center the control arm before you tighten it down. When you popped the ball joint the control arm jumped up with a lot of force. When you put it back together you used a jack to push the ball joint up to the steering knuckle. The travel of the bushings is limited in each direction once locked down. The steering knuckle was still attached to the strut and only moved towards the center. The sway bar links will break with the extra downward movement and start rattling and knocking or even pop out on the original ball joint from the link. I have done the fronts 4 times and put eibach springs on to lower it a couple of inches. The cornering is way better now. For better control of the control arm wrap a chain around the arm by ball joint and bolt it together. After removing the bolt slide a long crow bar through the chain and wedge against sub frame and step on it with force. Ball joint pops right out of the steering knuckle.
Robert Jones nah its fine..thanks for watching and commenting
Correct, the control arm should be placed in the loaded position, which is nearly level, before the bushing bolts are torqued down. You'll get a lot of premature busing wear without this.
You are correct Robert
Of course UA-cam people will never admit anything they did was wrong.
Yes the bolt should be tightened with weight of the car on the suspension.
You from up North, aint ya? I really appreciate the help bro! Thanks!!
New york! Thanks for watching
Ditto all other Great commenters. Great video!!
Thank you..don't forget to subscribe
Hey tell me what my car should be doing, in order to need to replace lower control arm
What about preloading the bushings?
Hey I got a dewalt 165 psi 6 gal pancake air compressor. Will it make a impact wrench work like the one you have
It's not a advisable to reuse stretch bolts. Retorquing can stretch the bolt beyond its limit, increasing the chance of failure. The Ford Focus workshop manuals states all nuts and bolts on the lower suspension should be renewed. Sorry.
Mark Collins Thanks. Was confused by this. I can't see how these bolts really require stretch-clamping accuracy. Not sure I'd re-degree those; pretty useless, but I did learn something new.
Mark Collins They are called torque-to-yield. Use only once folks.
Mark Collins I thought they were only used on cylinder heads, you learn something new every day lol. I have to say though, it's good to see things done properly; almost every time I watch something like this, the person do8ng it never tightens using correct torque, they just tighten it right up.
Mark Collins I agree 100% I have a 2008 Ford Focus and I did both lower control arms on my car. Went to torque the first bolt and it snapped before I got to the torque spec.
I snapped the ball joint bolt trying to reuse it lol.... Dammit
I just finished doing both sides on my SVT. This video helped me alot, but I couldn't get the ball joint all the way out without removing the rest of the control arm (just a heads up). It went pretty smoothly other than that, and breaking a 21mm socket. I wish I had an impact gun.
Hey man I'm having a hard time trying to find a way to do this crap and you're over here joking around making light of the situation will I just want to let you know that I appreciate it because I'm having a hard time and you're making me bust up laughing forgetting about the you know
Lol glad I was able to brighten your day..and good luck with the job!
Anyone notice that he put the bolts & nuts back onto the car backwards????
I did,I just did mine and the nuts were on top lol
No need for thread locker on those bolts,just makes for a headache when the cheapo control arm goes bad.Threadlocker in general is way over used,especially on brake caliper bolts. Tighten the bolts ,all you need to do
It actually does make it harder for the bolt to loosen
I don't know about other models, but if you are changing the left front on a 2003 with an automatic you might want to get a transmission filter and replace it at the same time. I had to drop the transmission pan to get the front bolt out.
Jim B. I loosened the top motor mounts and jacked the engine up enough for a socket wrench. I also have a 2003 Ford Focus Automatic. I tried doing this myself but no luck. One of the nuts was rounded off so i stopped before i made it worse. Noe i have to take mine to an actual mechanic
Ok, 15 MM on one side.. but what size Torx bit on the other side? 50 Torx or 55 Torx? Thanks.
50
excellent job.thank you for posting this
+qualityrenov thanks for watching
good job man , you made this look easy lol
Thank u..dont forget to subscribe and click that bell :)
Do you recommend compressing the spring to get the knuckle up higher so the ball joint can go in?
There is no need..u can put a jack under the control arm to push it up if u want..thanks for commenting and watching...check out the description for a link to my shirt line..thanks
really thorough. great vid
How do I correctly place new bushings on the control arm?
You need to press them out and then press them in..dont forget to subscribe
False economy. Buy two new wishbones which come with both bushings preinstalled plus new bottom ball joint preinstalled. Very cheap. Use all new nuts and bolts too.
What made you reinstall the rearward bolts upside down? Any particular reason?
i always install suspension bolts upside down..in case a nut breaks off..the whole bolt doesnt slide out...thanks for watching
+klowny1969 ok good point, thank you
+Nick Truskowski np
+klowny1969 I just did mine a week ago on my car, but I'm getting a creaky sound, kind of seems like the ball joint is faulty or something. Not sure if it is just noisy while it breaks in.
+Nick Truskowski if ur using poly bushings they creak..need to be greased
Nice video. I'm unfamiliar with that angle gauge
Thnx for watching
I don't understand the use of torque angle gauge @7:30, for the rear inner nut? I've seen a few mechanics not use these for this job. Can you please explain this choice?
you do that to torque to yield bolts..to get the right amount of stretch out of the bolt
Is it ok to just replace the bushing if that is the problem or replace the whole arm?
Sometimes replacing the whole control arm is more cheap go to Amazon you ll find good deals
@@blass5506 Cool thanks man I'll check it out
I wanna know where i can get Urethane bushings to put in these for my 2008 North American Ford Focus Sedan
i got 8 years and 53,000 kilometres out of the original ones.
try summitracing.com
klowny1969 know of any places IN canada
+lightningsmokerXx nope sorry
Great stuff. One question what size compressor do you have for your shop
This one was a 32 gallon I believe
Folks can anyone help me... the ball joint won't seat properly on either side! I've jacked up for pressure, even lowered the car with wheel back on. No matter what I try it seems to go in cockeyed, maybe because the pinch opening seems to be at a different angle(it doesn't point straight down) . Any ideas would be great.
I got the bolt out holding the ball joint and the steering knuckle. But when trying to pop the ball joint out I'm having a hard time. I've tried using a pickle fork, used the screw driver method but still nothing. Now the rubber is all messed up any ideas?
Anthony Limbo u can try squirting some lube into the top..u have to whack it like a man..it will eventually pop out
klowny1969 about an hour or so after I commented I finally got it I did what you suggested and whacked the hell out of it. Thanks
Anthony Limbo that's what I'm talking about :)
Nice video,Haynes and ford say you need to use new bolts,especially the front bolt which is a stretch bolt,does this really matter ?
+simon Smith technically anything that requires an angle guage should be replaced with new bolts..but people reuse them all the time
I don't own an air hammer, any other way to get that first bolt out??
Austin Collyer with a bfh
I did this on my 2005 , I got the control arm off , I put the new one in bolted it all together but I cant get the ball joint in the hole, nomatter what way I turn the wheel or how much I torque on it , it's about an inch away from the hole and cant get it close enough to go in..its really pissing me off
try putting a screwdriver where the split is to open it some more? then hit it with a hammer like it owes you money..dont forget to subscribe
Hey man I really need some help, the bolt that goes through the knuckle that holds the balljoint just wont budge, the hex that I put has been damaged to the point where its as flat as a penny after a solid hour of hammering. Should I just drill it out through the Torx head?
I’ve also left it in PB Blaster to soak.
Heat the knuckle with a torch and try smacking the bolt..air hammer works amazing
Will do, thanks for the reply. I will try to see if I can get my hands on an air hammer/torch.
So I got the bolt off using a torch, but my question is. I lifted the control arm to the point where it would be as if it was sitting on the ground. Then I tightened the bolt that goes through the nut (LCA came with new bolt/nut), but it seems the balljoint is not sitting all the way in? I test drove the car and it feels fine, went over some pretty bad roads to see if the ball joint would pop out but it was fine.
Nikko G why do u say it's not all the way in?
Nice to see your using good parts and I have to check out that Kroil lube. 👍
+Steve Rob hey Steve..Kroil is the best stuff on earth lol seriously though, i highly recommend it..thanks again for watching and commenting :)
good gemacht Alter...Danke
Hey what do you think about moog suspension parts?
+chataskates805 they are great..thnx for watching
Is the balljoint stud held in place by (clamping) friction?
Lou Fazio not exactly sure what you are asking
klowny1969 The balljoint stud went into the steering knuckle w/o a nut. Then looks like it's seated flush in place and then clamped onto from the bolt.
Lou Fazio yeah thats right
klowny1969 OK. Thanks! Very good video! Good camera views, explanations, specifications and entertainment, lol !
Lou Fazio lol thank u
Y'all cooo n funny luv it👍🏽🤣😎
Thanks..don't forget to subscribe
How long would it take for this fix?
Great video, about to do this job so thanks very much! A few questions, if you don't mind, on where you've differed on other tutorials I've read/watched: 1. Why use anti-seize instead of threadlocker on the LCA bolts connecting to the subframe? 2. Is the ball joint on the Moog LCA you bought greasable, and did you add grease? 3. I noticed you torqued/tightened the LCA bolts to the subframe prior to jacking up LCA for torquing the pinch bolt, instead of jacking up the LCA before all tightening...does it matter for the LCA bolts whether you jack the LCA beforehand? Thanks again.
i used antisieze because im in the rust belt and everything tends to freeze up with rust here..the lca should be jacked up if the bushings are compressed by the shackles that they go into the frame..if they freely move around..then there is no jacking needed..the pinch bolt..as long as its in, it doesnt matter if its jacked up or not..thanks for watching and please subscribe
do you know a lot about 65 chevy impalas?
+ceasarrivera88 depends..what do u want to know?
Awesome 👌
Thank you..don't forget to subscribe
From watching, it seems I can't get out the ball joint without a fork... Is that right?
Quentyn73 no need for a fork..Just something for u to pry the control arm down
Thanks, dude! Awesome manual you made there.
Quentyn73 u got it..Good luck
I bought and installed a moog control arm for my focus. One year down the road the ball joint is loose and the arm needs replacing, again. Most Moog products are made in China now and the stuff is complete garbage.
I made the same mistake. Bought em because the moog name only. What i learned was, look at the part# on moog control arms. If the part # starts with RK it's Chinese made junk. If it starts with CK it made in the U.S and isn't complete shit.
Hey kewl info. Thanks for that. But please. Please. Just be creepier. 👍🏻
LOL will do
Just replaced my drivers side lower control arm and now my alightment is waaaaay off. Anyone know why?
Was it on a focus? Thats shouldnt be the case, unless you put the wrong one in? Did you match up the parts before installing?
Yep, 2003 ford focus, It matched up and fit perfect, drives great, but my steering wheel is off to the left when driving straight. Thanks for posting this video though, it helped me a lot @@klowny1969
U should always get an alignment done after replacing any suspension components
It just shows how much adjustment to the tie rods that have been made over the years to keep the tires in line. It's normal. Not sure why this guy is saying it isn't.
Exact same issue with my 2004 mark 1
I will get the tracking aligned.@@wmcwmc8623
I can't get that fuckin' ball joint to stay in there. By "all the way in" Does that mean i line up the bolt hole with the grove of the ball joint, or do i literally shove the whole ball joint assembly up into the spindle?
hi klowny,I don't own a torque wrench or air tools,why do these bolts have such a high setting ? Will tightenng them as much as possible by hand be good enough ? I can't imagine them working loose,thanks
+simon Smith technically youre not supposed to..the ones that u use an angle guage are stretch bolts and should technically be used only once..now do people reuse these bolts and not use any guages? Yes they do and they never had any problems
What is with gloves the in these videos????
You nasty and I love it. Lol
Good sense of humor I enjoy it haha And the tutorial very helpful Tx 🙏
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Add some rust inhibitors to the cradle
kind of jealous lol, i have a 2001 zx3 and the back 2 of the drivers side lower control arm bolts are seized so badly that a 3/4 drive snap on pneumatic impact cant budge them...the worst part is that they aren't tightened all the way and heating them up doesn't help....not looking forward to cutting them out
Joe Alexander have u tried a huge breaker bar?
klowny1969 oh yeah I tried everything lol, I have never run into anything like this before, like I said I'm down to my last resort of pulling my fender, clearing the wiring out and burning the bolts out, I just hate having to do it cuz I'm going to have to pay someone to weld in New braces if I burn the holes out of shape
Joe Alexander yeah that would suck..good luck lemme know how u make out
So is it okay to tighten the control arm nut and bolts without load , should i tighten them while the wheel is on the ground
Joe Alexander I hope you didn't cut them. One side is welded nuts. Turn the other side and it comes right out. I have done it twice.
Awesome
Tighten it 2 specs for peace of mind 😌
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That is only applicable to Mk 1/1.5 Focus, not from 2005, mk 2, on
Did you say beach?
man, working on mk1 focus are such pain
Lol
Funny how our stuff in the UK is not 'NASCAR' spec. lol
Red thread locker? Lol uh no. Anyone who sees this comment, if you want to use thread locker at all(it's not necessary for this application), use the blue kind.
It's necessary
It sounds scary when you say lower control arm, but once you see it done and you show that bitch who is in control, it is really easy. Expect for the trox and ball joint tool, I have every tool I need. I have a cordless DEWALT Impact Wrench that should be able to do the job (up to 300 foot pound of torque). So thanks for the guide, looks like a Saturday afternoon job, a six pack and maybe a couple of hours after that...
The Drewman good luck!!
Like a woman in a skirt: Easy access... Really? So professional
its the truth
Such a oain if you dont have air tools.
Lube works wonders dont it Daddy.
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@@klowny1969 lol. I sure will. I thought I did
@@klowny1969 i already subscribed. Love your videos
Bro how u gonna tease us with the camera girl like that? You'd get more views if you used her as eye candy...just saying 🤣
Lol
Maybe don’t speak during your videos? It’s like automotive maintenance as taught by Tony Manero.
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Wow really im a female mechanic and i dont appreciate the comment "like a womans shirt u want easy access"would have been a helpful,funny video but just like a man to talk and ruin what could have been an educational video just please dont forget in this day and time we need to speak and treat everyone(men and women with common respect)i know its meant to be harmless and funny but its just so ignorant and we are as a society so far beyond sexist comments like this lol KEEP IT CLASSY IM SURE YOUR DAUGHTER-MOTHER-OR SISTER WOULD FEEL THE SAME GOD BLESS😍😍😍😍😍
Hi this is his wife..and I always make sure that my shirts have easy access
@@klowny1969 again i watched this video about fixing cars and truely thought it was very helpful just totally lost all interest when the caveman sexist lame comments started just felt the need to express my thoughts just as you and your husband did thats the great freedom of being an American(freedom of speech) no harm done women have came along way in our society one ignorant man wont stop our success but as a mother of 4 very intelligent females i must speak up and let you know its 2020 lets use more brain cells on the next video GOD BLESS LETS TEACH OUR CHILDREN GREAT MANNERS AND RESPECT FOR ALL!!!(no more communication needed ill find other videos in the future thanks)
He's sexist and you aren't with your "just like a man" comment?
Put your big girl panties on.
The world owes you nothing....