Focus MK2 front lower wishbone replacement
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2021
- Following my pre-MOT checks, where I detected some play in the lower ball joint, I am replacing the driver side front lower wishbone. A job that isn’t complicated, but can be hindered by a seized ball joint and rusty nuts.
This procedure also applies to Volvo C30, S40 MK2 and V50
#ford #fordfocus #fordfocus2
I am also on Instagram and Facebook where you can also contact me:
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/ gentilsgarage
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![Jak wymienić Wahacz przedni w FORD FOCUS 2 [TUTORIAL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TfxcKR_K2XM/mqdefault.jpg)
Lovely job. Straight to the point with absolutely no shit talk. I like as well how you did the job with basic hand tools, showing that the job can be completed without garage level equipment. Planning on doing my wishbones after Christmas and your video was a massive help. Subscribed!
Thank you very much. I try to do this as close as possible to the real world, which is the case with most owners like me.
Oh, a word of advise. On another focus, I had to use an angle grinder to cut the nut as it was seized solid. No amount of heat would budge it. Also, make sure the ball joint splitter is adequate for a 21mm ball joint.
Lovely job. As usual, no 15 minutes of unnecessary waffle like some on UA-cam. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you very much!
Saved me a mint mate cheers!, never done anything like this before on a car and done it so easily.
Thank you very much, glad it helped!
Sub from me…. Really refreshing to see someone do this with basic tools but in an oh so clear fashion. Thank you
Thank you very much!
Amazing video. Many thanks for your efforts 👌
Thank you very much
Excellent video Gentil, with crucial information regarding the Ball joint sizes in relation to the year of the car. Else where , maybe in the Haynes manual I've read the clip that holds the ball joint gator on, is coded Blue = Big, and Yellow = Small. Great stuff again Gentile.☺
Thank you very much. I wasn’t aware about the boot clip colours so that’s good to know. Mine had already been replaced before with whishbones from Moof, so they were not colour coded
Great easy to understand video tutorial, just a small point you don’t even need to take the wheel off or the track rod end to change the arm just three bolts & the ball joint nut👍
Thank you. Yes, in hindsight the track rod end doesn’t need to be removed, but having the wheel off does help a lot
Thank you was worried about this as on my megane I had to drop the sub frame... Reassured me my focus will be relatively easy thankyou
Thank you very much, glad it helped
Very good video. If anyone's going to do this job, get yourself a 21mm ratchet spanner for the ball joint. Will save you a ton of time
Thank you. Yes, a ratchet spanner can help but the the nut is seized (as i found out on the left hand side) only heat would work
Mine was seized but if you remove the lower arm to subframe bolts and tie rod, so the knuckle is free to move outboard, you can just about get the driveshaft out of the hub leaving you free to beat the top of the tapered ball with 5lb persuader.
Nice explanation 👌
Thank you very much
Good video. Personally, I would jack up the hub end of the wishbone so it is level before doing up the bolt for the front bush. Just so it is sitting in it's natural position as if it were under the weight of the vehicle.
Thank you.
Yes, You’re right as this was pointed out before so that’s what I’ll be doing in the future
Great video really helped me change both sides with no bother one thing to note though if you are trying to save money once I'd done mine it threw my wheel alignment completely out so both front wheels were pointing in at eachother when the steering wheel was straight like this / \ so ended up having to put it in a garage for alignment anyway
Thank you, I’m glad it helped.
Regarding the steering alignment, at 11:15 I advise that an alignment should be done when a steering component is replaced.
@@GentilsGarage I must have missed it pal thanks again👍
@@null1820 no worries 😉
Thanks for this. Will do them myself now.
You’re welcome. Good luck
Great video as ever, just for comparison 59 plate Focus just had done by local, trusted, garage charged 4 hours labour. The front arm's (TRW) were last done 50k miles ago whereas the ones it was born with were changed at 78k miles. Car is running 16" wheels so get much easier life than those running say 18"..car does half it's miles on some fairly broken rural roads so not surprised had developed a knock.
Thank you very much.
I agree that bigger wheels to take the toll on the arms. This is the third set in just over 100k when I did the job. I’ve done nearly 20k since this and they are still good.
@garryputt
4 hours labour? 1/2 hour 45 mins tops at home? Think they were taking the piss
No way four hours labour, that's one hours labour for each nut lol, my garages did mine in less than one hour, I wouldn't call your local garage trusted in the future !
that is a good video.i will add one thing,when you fit the new wishbone all the nuts should NOT BE tightened all the way,first you put wheel back,lower the car on the ground and only then torque all the bolts to the spec with a torque wrench,otherwise the bushes will worn prematurely
Thank you. I’m a bit confused when you say to lower the car on the ground and torque all bolts to spec. You can’t do that for the fulcrum bolt (the one that goes through the bush) because the wheel is in the way, so you have to take it off to access it. The others are wishbone mounting brackets that bolt on the chassi and they don’t flex with the suspension so I can’t see the benefit of torque the bolts on the floor.
All garages I know use lifts and they torque everything while the car is up.
@@GentilsGarage I get around this by simulating being on the ground by jacking the hub untill the suspension is compressed and the car starts lifting from the axle stand and you should be able to access to bolt
@@davezetec I understand that, but still can’t fit a socket on the ball joint and use a torque wrench because the socket is too tall for that area
@@GentilsGarage on the bush that doesn't have a bracket? Yeah I don't know I haven't done a focus in years so don't remember. Even if it's not torqued and just tightened with a spanner it's better because at resting height the bush has no twisting force on it that's why they last longer
@@davezetec yes, I agree. the only bush where the torquing would work, and makes sense, is the one at the back with the fulcrum bolt. The ball joint is inaccessible and the other two with the bracket don’t flex.
Good job. Seems like you enjoy fixing your cars yourself (big money savings!). What brand of suspension arms did you use? Greetings!
Thank you. It does save a lot on labour charges.
I used Starline from Eurocarparts.
It is recommended to do the tightening of the three bolts on the chassis with load on the wheel to stop bush damage.
Yes, I agree and it has been pointed out by a few viewers, But, at the time, I wasn’t aware of this and many garages didn’t mention it either. On the other hand, 30k miles later they’re still all good
Great video, thank you!
May I ask, don't you need to tighten the bolts according to the torque specs? Thank you.
Thank you. ideally, yes, but i could not find the torque specs
thank you
You’re welcome
thank you very much for the tutorial!! i have the same question. My car is from March 2007 mk2 1.8 tdci. I have to change it. 21mm? Thank you very much and greetings from Madrid 🇪🇦
Thanks you. Yes, your car should have the 21mm already
@@GentilsGarage Muchas gracias!👍
brilliant video!
so i need a15, 18 and 21 sizes?
Thank you, yes pretty much
You know what the torque requirements for the lower control arm ball joint is ? Good video by the way! 💪🏽
Thank you. I don’t think there are specific torque settings for the ball joint as there is no room to fit a socket and wrench. Just make sure it’s very tight.
I have a 09 focus 18ml and 21ml is listed for my car how do i know what size i need
Great videos enjoy ur content
Thank you. It should be 21mm as they changed from 18 to 21mm around March 2006
@@GentilsGarage Thank you very much i will order the 21mls and i will be using your videos as a guide
@@pastcaring1 just beware that the balljoint might be really hard to remove. The passenger side (the one on the video) was easy but the driver side was seized and I had to hammer it very hard.
Thank you for this, I also need to replace my wishbones and links. Very helpful
Very helpful, Many thanks!
Thank you
I've put the ball joint in first and now struggling to get the other bolts back in. I'm terrified to use my ball joint splitter incase I damage the gator. 😅
I’ve done the same when I replaced the wishbone of my wife’s KA. I had to do the process all over again, but I managed to remove the ball joint without damaging the boot
Yeh I had to take it off again and the gator got damaged by the the old ball joint splitter I had which wouldn't remove it😅. Ended up getting a nice shiny new fork splitter and finally got it out plus the old one on the other side. Even though it's an expensive mistake I made I feel like I've learned a lot and I'm glad I'm out the woods now 😂. One side fitted just need to get a new wishbone for the side I damaged 😅
I have a 2007 (Dec) Ford Focus 1.6tdci 90hp. What cone size (ball joint) shall I buy. 21mm or 18mm? I searched on internet by vin number and it says right side 21mm and left side can fit bith either 18 or 21. Now I'm confused. Can you please help me
Hi, post March 2006 cars have the 21mm ball joint on both sides
👌 👍
Thank you
Did you have to do any realignment after you. Replaced the parts? Also did gou see the your steering wheel was shaking when motorway driving?
Yes, I had it aligned. As I mention in the video, always align when replacing steering or suspension parts. No shaking on the motorway, probably because it was caught very early
@@GentilsGarage ok thank you for the info. ive got a 2006 mk2 1.6 LX that i bought for £300 from a guy 5 years ago and all these videos that you are posting are extremely helpful. Mine idles a bit rough so i cleaned the TBC and I've done the PCV valve and pipe but still feels like it idles too rough. I might to change the Cam and Crankshaft sensor. Maybe its just engine mountings that are going...
@@rosidus thank you. Yes, check all mounts for play before you replace anything. Also check the plugs as they might need replacing. Also, the coil might need replacing too, but start with the cheapest parts first.
@@GentilsGarage I've done plugs about 20k miles ago and also the coil pack and coil leads. I've read that it also has a lifetime petrol filter which I'm a bit sceptical about.
what brand wishbones did you use? are delphi tehnologies any good?
I used Starline from Eurocarparts. No problem with them so far. Delphi should be fine too
@@GentilsGarage I will let you know if they are any good as I get those fitted :D
Hello how are you i own a ford focus 2009 i changed both shock absorber front ones and over bumpa makes a lot noise i went to service and they said is the steering rack problem is it reallu that ?
Hi there. It could be the track rod ends, but also the sock mounts. Have these been replaced at the same time? They can make knocking noises too.
@@GentilsGarage yep both sock front mounts were replace too with the shock absorbers
@@MsGerti12 ok, in that case check for movement on the track rod ends, anti-roll bar links and bushes.
I replaced my front wish bones and front stabilizers myself with my dad and now when I turn it makes a squeaking noise? Any advice?
That’s unusual with new parts. Usually happens with worn ball joints.
@GentilsGarage it was the tracking was out. That sound was really bad tyre swell. I still have a noise though it could be the gearbox mount so put a new one on. But it's still making a noise like something is loose but I can't figure it out going to have to have someone look at it and see what they say......
Are you using a 1/2inch Ratchet and breaker bar?
Yes, that’s right.
Thankyou doing this job today and following this guide
@@baileygeorge7604 just be prepared to have a hard time splitting the ball joint. Mine didn’t take much of a fight to remove, but I’ve heard reports that many had to cut the nut as it was seized solid.
Would the car need tracking doing once fitted
Definitely, otherwise you risk having uneven tyre wear.
@@GentilsGarage Thankyou. I've asked a few garages and get different answers. I've got my car booked in in 4 weeks to get both lower arms replaced as there is play in the n/s big rear bush. I noticed this when having two new tyres fitter (torqued up) I saw movement. Will my tyres be ok for 4 weeks do you think?
@@th3maklif3 since you’re getting the work done in just a few weeks, it should be fine. It’s always better to Get all done at the same tine
Is suspension arm ball joint attacht to the wishbone as my car fail on it would it be easier just to replace wishbone
Yes, It is riveted to the wishbone. It is much easier to replace the whole thing altogether in one go.
Thanks I did wonder if was easier il order the parts and see how it goes
I tried my suspension arms today how do u get around bolt that’s done up so tight won’t unloosen for love or money
@@lewisriggs6596 are you talking about the ball joint nut? Soak it with wd40 and leave overnight and apply a few more times before you try again. On another car, I also used an Allen hex key to secure the ball joint thread and then with some heat applied, I managed to remove the nut. If the wishbone has already been replaced before, there is a chance that instead of an Allen key, you have to use a ford key. On another car, the solution was simply to but it off with an angle grinder.
Hi gentils it’s the 18mm bolt and the 2 15mm bolts weren’t at all so didn’t what other solution to take
2:20 Something happened to your volume
No idea what was that. Seems fine at this end
Its a track rod not tie rod.
They’re both designations for the same thing.
i allways smear copper grease on bolts that go through bushes and any where that may stick with rust makes job easier next time around
Yes, that’s a good practice. However, the ones on this car, apart from the ball joint one, need to have thread lock. In this one, in hindsight, it’s good to put some copper grease on the tapered pin of the ball joint
@@GentilsGarage yes thread lockon threads but copper grease on bolt shanks