Honda does not charge the battery all the time, and even in this video 4:55 it is shown as it goes to "low load mode" which is 12V. It is normal. Depending how you use your vehicle (short trips, excessive use of electronics...), you may need to charge the battery with external charger to top it up.
Well as far as i know the charging system is to keep your battery charge. When is low it switch on to charge it then it detects is charged and switch off not to damage the battery. If you have to charge it with a charger is because there is a problem somewhere. As it was happening with the civic.
@@snoopy1164 That is not the case, you can check how and when Honda charges battery from any decent Honda mechanic (or just by googling about it or asking about in 9thgencivic.com forum). People for example believe that that idling without headlamps on, Honda charges the battery, which is not true. Just one example. More information related to how Hondas charging system works: opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres
not really, a good duralast $200 battery is a right solution; just dont attach to ur terminals any of those funny greased small packages that the az 💩- they make millions of $ screwing ppls lives that way (if the attendant/s) try to stuck on your own disgrase, if u already got it, just toss it into the trash bin to eliminate big time upcoming problems with ur starting/ ign systs at once - capish? 🗽💔👁😰💤
Good video. Another thing to consider is whether you added peripheral devices (aftermarket). In my case all fuses checked out and battery leakage was 70 ma. I disconnected a battery pulser that I previously installed and the draw dropped to 7ma a ten times reduction. A big deal if you don't use the car much.
I suspected it would be the battery sensor. Used a (Fluke) voltmeter to check status. And when i took a measurement. At the battery. Its voltage was not normal but when disconnected the Battery sensor the voltage went back up. Does this sensor place a significant drain.
Thank you! This worked! although i didn’t need the cables cleaned i just needed to unplug that thing and replug it- also before even recharging my battery the horn kept going off so i had to pull the horn fuse out then jump it- don’t forget to plug the fuse back in like i did or you’ll get that battery icon still - Again TY!
update on the problem. if you have this problem try removing the number 29 fuse inside engine compartment. leave the car standing for a few days. come back put the fuse back on if your car start with no problem.. most likely is a problem in the fuse box under the dashboard in the driver side. this is the whole brain of the car and it has a problem where a circuit get damage and is not possible to get it fix. so you have to replace the whole fuse box. try finding a good use one that will take care of the problem.
All these problems are related to the Government telling the car manufacturers to get the MPG up, even if the technology does not exist. So Honda created the ELD which limits the charging of the Alternator, this is a bullshit idea, thats why the batteries are failing, their NOT being properly charged the way an alternator is suppose to work. this is a COMPUTER CONTROLLED ALTERNATOR, you can't even test it at an Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto Parts store because they don't have the testing equipement. Bypassing the ELD will give you a chrismas light show of warning lights on your dash, nobody wants that and Honda will not help you with this problem, (except replace your battery, good luck when the warranty expires) If your retired or don't drive highway (Over 50 MPH, neccessaray to charge at 14+ volts) your going to have a dead battery sooner rather than later. You're going to have to buy a smart charger like a C-Tek or go the expensive way buy a Hondata FlashPro and turn OFF the ELD. Then and only then will your Alternator charge the way it was suppose to and your battery will last and act normal. Remember when ALL the Honda customers complained about NOT having a physical VOLUME knob on their car's radio? Now every Honda has one...Well EVERYONE needs to bitch and complain about NOT HAVING the ABILITY to TURN OFF the ELD.!!!!!!
Lowkey makes sense. I'm losing sleep here trying to figure out why my 2 year old battery is dying and not starting the engine when I DONT turn the car off with a high load on. Apparently the 14.4 V that the alternator puts out when certain parameters are met is the only way I can turn off my car so my battery has enough juice for the next cycle. Frustrating
I'm planning on buying a 2012 Honda Civic 2012 LX. Is this car you are talking about a 2012 LX ? Or do all 2012 honda Civic have this problem. Please let me know?
I replaced my alternator and battery recently but it still keeps happening. If I restart the car within 5 minutes of turning it off it won't turn on. I'm going to put in a new ELD fuse tomorrow and check fuse 29 too. I have a seat massager, Bluetooth, and dashcam running off the cigarette lighter maybe I'm using up the voltage too much?
@@SySidequest ok you have a really big loose of current in this case you need to start taking fuses and relays out until you find where the big problem is.
Have the same problem with my 2014 Civic EX. Third battery that I had to replace in 7 years. Tends to fail between the 2-3 year mark and Honda is happy to charge 50% to replace it, if not 100%.
Hola Javi yo ya reemplaze el alternador y la bateria y tambien el fusible ELD y tambien compre un sensor para la bateria. Me di cuenta que esa wire que desenchufastes es la misma que yo tambien desenchufe y ahora me di cuenta que el alternator carga la bateria con eso desenchufado. Mi pregunta es cual es el nombre de esa wire que se enchufa al sensor de la bateria y asta donde llega?
OK I have a scenario I wanna relocate the battery to my trunk My question, is this if I run a ground wire from the battery in the trunk to that wire and leave it intact Will it trick the computer into thinking that the battery still in the front and everything is all good
Well in this case let me explain you something really simple no offense. A car company pays millions to their engineers to developed their cars as they come out. They do this for a reason example: safety, performance,accident prevention scenarios e.t.c. why would you or someone else think is a good idea to do so??? Just trying to be in accordance with logic.... In your case it should not make think the battery is in the back or at the front scenario. But the longer wire connections will change inductance voltage values as well and impedance and amperes values. Not a good idea since electronics in cars work with all those.you might get some computer problems and even damage to it. Thanks for the inquired.
@@snoopy1164 I’ve worked on cars for 25 years, every few years I find a project somebody either gave up on , or wrecked I’ve rebuilt older cars 98 c5 corvette I still own ,supercharged I have a hot rod s10 383 stroker, you know easy stuff , but this is my first honda when I’m done she’ll be turbo With a nice sound system and paint job and suspension setup So I have to do my research I need room under the hood for the goodies And it’ll make it easier installing the amps and other things if the battery is in the trunk
I have the same problems I change the battery replaced the alternator replace the drive belt replace the spark plugs replace the battery sensor assembly replaced The ELD still have problems. I am going to put the old ELD back on because after I replaced it that’s when the auto parts store told me my alternator was bad which is why I changed it out. I will try to clean the battery terminals to make sure there’s no film on there as well. I find that my car when just idling a multi meter across the battery terminals I only get 12.2 V when I give it some gas and get the RPM up to 2000 The meter starts reading the 13.6 V it should be. I really hope it’s something like a fuse or wire I’ve been told that the PCM can also cause issues
Like i said take the fuse. 29 out and leave the car for two or three days just make sure battery is charge.. before doing it.. como back put the fuse back and try to start the car...if starts no problem you need to replace. The whole fuse box . Under dashboard driver side.
Hola Javi, tengo un problema con mi honda Civic 2012, se descarga la batería, el alternador lo dí a revisar y me dicen que esta bueno, la batería la cambié pero igual se descarga, al medirlo con un multimetro el vehículo encendido me da 12.5 voltios, al encender los faros marca 14 voltios, podrías ayudarme ya no se que hacer ..
I checked my alternator output at the battery. It’s putting out over 14 V, which is good. My battery is less than five weeks old. I thought I needed a battery five weeks ago so I replaced the 17-month-old battery which I am thinking was not bad to begin with when this problem started with our battery being dead if the car sits for more than five or six days without driving it.. so I have a new battery my battery terminals are clean and the posts and connectors are covered with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.. if my connections were corroded or bad, the car would not start, and I would not be getting a reading of14 V when the car is running at the battery terminals, I’m not talking about the battery cables I’m talking about the battery terminals. The battery is producing voltage and it’s receiving voltage from the alternator.. I did a test to see what the parasitic draw of the electrical system is on the battery with the car not running. I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and I put an amp meter in line with the cable through the amp meter to the battery post. The car is drawing half an amp with everything turned off.. Bad parasitic draw is from things like the computer and the clock and the security system using power from the battery to maintain the correct time, the security system, and the computer is in sleep mode but it is using power slightly.. different people on UA-cam say that around half an amp is normal parasitic draw for my Honda CRV/model 2016 year.. Personally I disagree with half an amp being normal parasitic draw. I thought I would learn something from this video. Thanks anyway
Thanks...like i said in the video remove the fuse that controls the locking system and leave the car standing..for a few days if you come back and car stars without a problem then thats where you need to look for the problem..
Hola Javi Hablas español?? Queria decirte que tengo el mismo problema pero cuando pongo el tester solo prende dos luces de alternador solo cuando prendo luz alta Que crees que pueda ser??
Uou need to do it from underneath the fuse box... Then remove the screws on the top... Look for how to repair A P1298 load electric code on honda.. that video explain it. 👍👍👍
Hey so the problem is the battery sensor? I have a 2016 civic. My charging system comes on. I change battery. And the light still on. You can see my video in my channel
Javi Gonz ok. So when my check charge system light is on. I check it with multimeter and it reads 11v, so alternator is not changing right. So now when I disconnect one of the battery terminals, and reconnected (reset). Now the light went away. Now the alternator is changing. And when I check it with multimeter again. Now it’s reading 13-14v. So it’s charging. I think alternator is good.
@@allgasnobrakes1665 if the light went away it is charging at a normal voltage. Keep an eye on it.. if it comes back check battery terminal and all. Since alternator started charging
Javi Gonz yea it went away. But when I start driving let just say to the store and turn off my car. When I come back to the car and start again. The light will come back on
No ee ninguno de los dos... La caja de fusibles es el problema. Si quitas el fusible numero 29 y lo dejas un par de dias y regresas lo colocas y enviende sin problema tienes que reemplazar la unidad donde estan todos los fusibles.
@@oscarramos6894 perdona estaba fuera.. si lo que sucede es que todo esta integrado en esa caja y no se realmente si es un problema de programacion o de la construccion del modulo pero este mantiene el sistena de los seguros de las puertas activado y eso descarga la bateria. en par de dias si es nueva si es usada hasta en menos tiempo.
Hello Javi. Thanks for the video. I have similar issue. Mine is honda civic 2012, my alternator only charges (14.4V) when the headlights are ON. If I'm driving with the headlights OFF, the battery will gradually be drained. I'm thinking of replace the whole fuse box under the dashboard in the driver side as you recommended. Is it easy to do and where can I buy it? Thanks.
Hello and thanks....the process is not very complicated as long as you take it easy. And you can find a good used one out of ebay or your local junk yards...they probably about 100 dollars. Or less.. you should take about 45mins replacing it.
No hay forma de hacerlo el problema es que todo esta integrado dentro de la caja de fusibles... Asi que la unica solucion es obtener una usada y colocarsela si esta buena el problema..se resolvera...
My Honda died at work when I got it back on I had a bunch of lights that came on which is -check abs -check vsa - power steering - e brake (BRAKE) Anyone know why? None of these have ever came on before
Thank the both of you I have gotten a new battery and we will see got it goes So far so good but if it’s an alternator it will kill the new battery right
I have same problem with mine. Battery light came on and off for about few months. Charged battery at 100%. Few days later car died. So I replaced the alternator. Drove for less then 20 miles. Car died again. Replace ELD still didnt work. Please help
I have changed the alternator 3 times, the last one is from the honda dealer, witch costed me a lot of money, and autozone guys who measure the charge of battery told me that is good the battery...that the issue is the alternator. Still continues say same thing and my car have the same problem, it doesn't start after parking it, and when l starts it dosen't turns on and l have to ask some one to charge the battery and after it starts again but the voltages of alternator is no good.
@@geidicalcagno pull fuse 29 inside the engine compartment.. leave it off for a period of time you consider that battery would drain before.. come back and start the car. if the car start no problem... is exactly what i told you before... the fuse box is compact and all the modules are inside in this case is the door lock module that stays active even tho you don't notice it.. it will drain your battery. fuse 29 controls the locks and some other modules i don't remember which ones now. but that was the problem with the car i have in the video...
Hola Javi muy buen video, te felicito por hacer algo por ayudar. Sabes tengo el problema de que en mi accord 2014 EXL NAVI se descarga la batería al siguiente día de que la dejo sin usar el carro revise con una pinza amperimétrica y me marca fuga de corriente descubrí que al desconectar el Door múltiplex del lado del conductor baja a normal y ya no hay esa fuga compre el switch que trae el que baja y sube los vidrios y los seguros del carro pero la fuga sigue igual con el nuevo switch. Al iniciar el chequeo vi que el fuse 23 de la caja de fusibles donde esta el motor lo sacaba y la fuga desaparecía. Ojalá me ayudes a descubrir porque esto ya me está volviendo loco. Saludos.
Gracias... Dejame revisar uno igual... Y diagnosticar el problema... Recuerda que la memoria de control ahora esta toda incluida en la caja de los fusibles.. es una sola placa con todo integrado.. puede que no sea el switch. Al contrario el integrado que funciona como modulo... Investigo y te paso alguna informacion.
@@snoopy1164 Gracias por responderme el modulo que dices ¿es el que se llama MICU? porque ya intuía que posiblemente sea eso, se me pasó comentar que cuando retiro el switch de la puerta y lo instalo en algunas ocasiones se oye un ruido como de un click ahí por los fusibles. Alguien me dijo que revisara los alambres, que los testeara pero no se como que debía ver pruebas a tierra, pero temo hacer un corto.
Long story. It's counterintuitive, but the battery doesn't seem to charge UNLESS the headlights are on. If I keep them on when I drive, I have no problems. There is also some door opening and locking "manipulation" to keep it from draining. If you stop the car, put it in park with keys in your lap, hours later you will find the windows will still open and close. If you stop, open the drives side door. Close it and lock it the battery doesn't drain. There's much more to this but I didn't come her to write a novel.
@@snoopy1164 te contaré que medi cuanto es el consumo del carro, es muy bajo, esta en el rango aceptado. Mi problema está en el sensor negativo y su sistema de carga de Honda. Limpie el negativo, probé el alternador. Revise todo y medi. Solución sensor del negativo, en mi caso como no lo venden en mi país, me toco pedirlo a otro lado. El problema es que la batería el auto nunca la carga como tiene que ser y por eso queda baja de carga & así esta, asta que se muere de carga. Le coloque un negativo al sensor para que cargue bien la batería por mientras espero el sensor
trataba de decir que cuando enciendes las luces el computador le dice al alternador que necesita mas salida de corriente para abastecer lo suficiente cuando enciendes las luces. asi que tienes que tener algun cable que no esta haciendo tierra correctamente.
Thanks ive had this issue with my civic for years. Now radio dead whole car dead get jumps next day car dead , now sitting in driveway dead i now hate Honda
@@carolmartin6137 if your honda is 2011 and up most likely is inside the whole fuse box under dash passanger side... honda has integrated most of the electronic system in it. creating a problem to replace just one module since it is all in one central circuit. to fix you need to replace the whole unit. what year is your honda?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Honda does not charge the battery all the time, and even in this video 4:55 it is shown as it goes to "low load mode" which is 12V. It is normal. Depending how you use your vehicle (short trips, excessive use of electronics...), you may need to charge the battery with external charger to top it up.
Well as far as i know the charging system is to keep your battery charge. When is low it switch on to charge it then it detects is charged and switch off not to damage the battery. If you have to charge it with a charger is because there is a problem somewhere. As it was happening with the civic.
@@snoopy1164 That is not the case, you can check how and when Honda charges battery from any decent Honda mechanic (or just by googling about it or asking about in 9thgencivic.com forum). People for example believe that that idling without headlamps on, Honda charges the battery, which is not true. Just one example.
More information related to how Hondas charging system works: opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres
Ok thanks.
not really, a good duralast $200 battery is a right solution; just dont attach to ur terminals any of those funny greased small packages that the az 💩- they make millions of $ screwing ppls lives that way (if the attendant/s) try to stuck on your own disgrase, if u already got it, just toss it into the trash bin to eliminate big time upcoming problems with ur starting/ ign systs at once - capish? 🗽💔👁😰💤
Doesnt work, I purchased a schumacher 10amp charger, tried charging once every week at least, two batteries just lasted 1year.
Good video. Another thing to consider is whether you added peripheral devices (aftermarket). In my case all fuses checked out and battery leakage was 70 ma. I disconnected a battery pulser that I previously installed and the draw dropped to 7ma a ten times reduction. A big deal if you don't use the car much.
I suspected it would be the battery sensor. Used a (Fluke) voltmeter to check status. And when i took a measurement. At the battery. Its voltage was not normal but when disconnected the Battery sensor the voltage went back up. Does this sensor place a significant drain.
It does work, it worked for me
Good thing I never took it to the mechanic or replace anything, no more walking to work
Thanks
Great happy to know you got it fixed...
Thank you! This worked! although i didn’t need the cables cleaned i just needed to unplug that thing and replug it- also before even recharging my battery the horn kept going off so i had to pull the horn fuse out then jump it- don’t forget to plug the fuse back in like i did or you’ll get that battery icon still - Again TY!
welcome i am happy to hear it did worked well for you .. sorry for the late reply
Javi I need help
@@jacobilewis9603 whats the problem??
update on the problem. if you have this problem try removing the number 29 fuse inside engine compartment. leave the car standing for a few days. come back put the fuse back on if your car start with no problem.. most likely is a problem in the fuse box under the dashboard in the driver side. this is the whole brain of the car and it has a problem where a circuit get damage and is not possible to get it fix. so you have to replace the whole fuse box. try finding a good use one that will take care of the problem.
Yeah mine have been parked for three days and now the battery is completely dead
All these problems are related to the Government telling the car manufacturers to get the MPG up, even if the technology does not exist. So Honda created the ELD which limits the charging of the Alternator, this is a bullshit idea, thats why the batteries are failing, their NOT being properly charged the way an alternator is suppose to work. this is a COMPUTER CONTROLLED ALTERNATOR, you can't even test it at an Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto Parts store because they don't have the testing equipement. Bypassing the ELD will give you a chrismas light show of warning lights on your dash, nobody wants that and Honda will not help you with this problem, (except replace your battery, good luck when the warranty expires) If your retired or don't drive highway (Over 50 MPH, neccessaray to charge at 14+ volts) your going to have a dead battery sooner rather than later. You're going to have to buy a smart charger like a C-Tek or go the expensive way buy a Hondata FlashPro and turn OFF the ELD. Then and only then will your Alternator charge the way it was suppose to and your battery will last and act normal. Remember when ALL the Honda customers complained about NOT having a physical VOLUME knob on their car's radio? Now every Honda has one...Well EVERYONE needs to bitch and complain about NOT HAVING the ABILITY to TURN OFF the ELD.!!!!!!
Lowkey makes sense. I'm losing sleep here trying to figure out why my 2 year old battery is dying and not starting the engine when I DONT turn the car off with a high load on.
Apparently the 14.4 V that the alternator puts out when certain parameters are met is the only way I can turn off my car so my battery has enough juice for the next cycle. Frustrating
He's about to explain on what the ECM does to the charging system and he gets cuts off at 6:21!!!! F#@#!!!
LOL...I just cleaned the ground and it came on...that simple!
Thanks man, I was going to get another jump and take it to the shop!
👌
Glad I could help
Thank you It works. Keep on doing UA-cam. Save people a lot of money
You're welcome!
I'm planning on buying a 2012 Honda Civic 2012 LX. Is this car you are talking about a 2012 LX ? Or do all 2012 honda Civic have this problem. Please let me know?
Not all have that problem.. but fix.is not complicated in case.one has it.
@@snoopy1164 thank you.
I replaced my alternator and battery recently but it still keeps happening. If I restart the car within 5 minutes of turning it off it won't turn on. I'm going to put in a new ELD fuse tomorrow and check fuse 29 too. I have a seat massager, Bluetooth, and dashcam running off the cigarette lighter maybe I'm using up the voltage too much?
Yes pull off the fuse 29.. but it. Could be some like a short to your starter and is draining the battery so quick.
@@snoopy1164 how can i check that? switch 29 is replaced but it's still not starting
@@snoopy1164 the alternator and battery are reading 12.3
@@SySidequest ok you have a really big loose of current in this case you need to start taking fuses and relays out until you find where the big problem is.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
Have the same problem with my 2014 Civic EX. Third battery that I had to replace in 7 years. Tends to fail between the 2-3 year mark and Honda is happy to charge 50% to replace it, if not 100%.
sorry never got to see your comment... well hope you got the problem sorted out...
@@snoopy1164 Yeah I use other batteries that come with more Cold Cranking Amps and longer warranties than Honda.
@@snoopy1164 Hello, how often do you perform this task? Thank you for the video b.t.w.
@@nate51501 well i dont own it anymore
Is this problem on the 2012 honda civic LX also. What Civic is this?
how can I contact you ... I need help on my honda civic..hablo Español
Hola Javi yo ya reemplaze el alternador y la bateria y tambien el fusible ELD y tambien compre un sensor para la bateria. Me di cuenta que esa wire que desenchufastes es la misma que yo tambien desenchufe y ahora me di cuenta que el alternator carga la bateria con eso desenchufado. Mi pregunta es cual es el nombre de esa wire que se enchufa al sensor de la bateria y asta donde llega?
Bueno si conectas todo y el carro te sigue descargando la bateria es la caja de fusibles. Ese es el cerebro de todo el carro.
No recuerdo creo va hasta el alternador...
OK I have a scenario I wanna relocate the battery to my trunk
My question, is this if I run a ground wire from the battery in the trunk to that wire and leave it intact
Will it trick the computer into thinking that the battery still in the front and everything is all good
Well in this case let me explain you something really simple no offense. A car company pays millions to their engineers to developed their cars as they come out. They do this for a reason example: safety, performance,accident prevention scenarios e.t.c. why would you or someone else think is a good idea to do so??? Just trying to be in accordance with logic.... In your case it should not make think the battery is in the back or at the front scenario. But the longer wire connections will change inductance voltage values as well and impedance and amperes values. Not a good idea since electronics in cars work with all those.you might get some computer problems and even damage to it. Thanks for the inquired.
@@snoopy1164 I’ve worked on cars for 25 years, every few years I find a project somebody either gave up on , or wrecked
I’ve rebuilt older cars 98 c5 corvette I still own ,supercharged I have a hot rod s10 383 stroker, you know easy stuff , but this is my first honda when I’m done she’ll be turbo
With a nice sound system and paint job and suspension setup
So I have to do my research
I need room under the hood for the goodies
And it’ll make it easier installing the amps and other things if the battery is in the trunk
@@bluecollarnobody4217 i thought so..yes most likely it wont mess anything.
What I do if I don't have that tool's
I have the same problems I change the battery replaced the alternator replace the drive belt replace the spark plugs replace the battery sensor assembly replaced The ELD still have problems. I am going to put the old ELD back on because after I replaced it that’s when the auto parts store told me my alternator was bad which is why I changed it out. I will try to clean the battery terminals to make sure there’s no film on there as well. I find that my car when just idling a multi meter across the battery terminals I only get 12.2 V when I give it some gas and get the RPM up to 2000 The meter starts reading the 13.6 V it should be. I really hope it’s something like a fuse or wire I’ve been told that the PCM can also cause issues
Like i said take the fuse. 29 out and leave the car for two or three days just make sure battery is charge.. before doing it.. como back put the fuse back and try to start the car...if starts no problem you need to replace. The whole fuse box . Under dashboard driver side.
Having the same issue. Any luck? I replaced my alternator, battery, grounds, relays etc
Couldn't find alternator fuse on my 2013 civic. Seems different from 2012 model.
sorry was out of town.. find a diagram of your fuse box there you will you find the info about that fuse
@@snoopy1164 thanks man, 👍
Hola Javi, tengo un problema con mi honda Civic 2012, se descarga la batería, el alternador lo dí a revisar y me dicen que esta bueno, la batería la cambié pero igual se descarga, al medirlo con un multimetro el vehículo encendido me da 12.5 voltios, al encender los faros marca 14 voltios, podrías ayudarme ya no se que hacer ..
Tengo el mismo problema, pudiste arreglarlo?
Lo lograste resolver??
@@volquezm6689 y tu amigo lo pudiste resolver ?
@@cristianmorales5840 si era la batería que tenia problemas. La cambie y nunca mas me dio problemas.
I checked my alternator output at the battery. It’s putting out over 14 V, which is good. My battery is less than five weeks old. I thought I needed a battery five weeks ago so I replaced the 17-month-old battery which I am thinking was not bad to begin with when this problem started with our battery being dead if the car sits for more than five or six days without driving it..
so I have a new battery
my battery terminals are clean and the posts and connectors are covered with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.. if my connections were corroded or bad, the car would not start, and I would not be getting a reading of14 V when the car is running at the battery terminals, I’m not talking about the battery cables I’m talking about the battery terminals. The battery is producing voltage and it’s receiving voltage from the alternator..
I did a test to see what the parasitic draw of the electrical system is on the battery with the car not running. I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and I put an amp meter in line with the cable through the amp meter to the battery post. The car is drawing half an amp with everything turned off.. Bad parasitic draw is from things like the computer and the clock and the security system using power from the battery to maintain the correct time, the security system, and the computer is in sleep mode but it is using power slightly.. different people on UA-cam say that around half an amp is normal parasitic draw for my Honda CRV/model 2016 year..
Personally I disagree with half an amp being normal parasitic draw. I thought I would learn something from this video. Thanks anyway
Thanks...like i said in the video remove the fuse that controls the locking system and leave the car standing..for a few days if you come back and car stars without a problem then thats where you need to look for the problem..
500ma is an order of magnitude too much. You need to isolate what exactly is drawing the amperage when off and go from there
Hola Javi Hablas español??
Queria decirte que tengo el mismo problema pero cuando pongo el tester solo prende dos luces de alternador solo cuando prendo luz alta Que crees que pueda ser??
el regulador de corriente en el alternador esta defectuoso. asi que vas a tener que reemplazarlo.
si hiciste los pasos que explique primero y tienes el mismo problema. tienes que romover el alternador y mandarlo probar.
How do I remove the eld fuse?
Uou need to do it from underneath the fuse box... Then remove the screws on the top... Look for how to repair A P1298 load electric code on honda.. that video explain it. 👍👍👍
4:56 it goes out again why?
Sorry i have no idea what happened there..
Hey so the problem is the battery sensor? I have a 2016 civic. My charging system comes on. I change battery. And the light still on. You can see my video in my channel
Yes it could be that sensor... But follow some easy steps like checking the alternator. Then so on... And let me know
Javi Gonz ok. So when my check charge system light is on. I check it with multimeter and it reads 11v, so alternator is not changing right. So now when I disconnect one of the battery terminals, and reconnected (reset). Now the light went away. Now the alternator is changing. And when I check it with multimeter again. Now it’s reading 13-14v. So it’s charging. I think alternator is good.
@@allgasnobrakes1665 if the light went away it is charging at a normal voltage.
Keep an eye on it.. if it comes back check battery terminal and all. Since alternator started charging
Javi Gonz yea it went away. But when I start driving let just say to the store and turn off my car. When I come back to the car and start again. The light will come back on
@@allgasnobrakes1665 get alternator checked if good .
Tengo el mismo problema. Ya remplace. El alternador y la batería. Pero. No encuentro el problema
Es un honda civic 2012
No ee ninguno de los dos... La caja de fusibles es el problema. Si quitas el fusible numero 29 y lo dejas un par de dias y regresas lo colocas y enviende sin problema tienes que reemplazar la unidad donde estan todos los fusibles.
Javi Gonz tengo que remplazar la caja donde están los fusibles
@@oscarramos6894 perdona estaba fuera.. si lo que sucede es que todo esta integrado en esa caja y no se realmente si es un problema de programacion o de la construccion del modulo pero este mantiene el sistena de los seguros de las puertas activado y eso descarga la bateria. en par de dias si es nueva si es usada hasta en menos tiempo.
Hello Javi. Thanks for the video. I have similar issue. Mine is honda civic 2012, my alternator only charges (14.4V) when the headlights are ON. If I'm driving with the headlights OFF, the battery will gradually be drained. I'm thinking of replace the whole fuse box under the dashboard in the driver side as you recommended. Is it easy to do and where can I buy it? Thanks.
Hello and thanks....the process is not very complicated as long as you take it easy. And you can find a good used one out of ebay or your local junk yards...they probably about 100 dollars. Or less.. you should take about 45mins replacing it.
Como podríamos hacer bypass de ese sistema?
Para que cargue normal como cualquier carro
No hay forma de hacerlo el problema es que todo esta integrado dentro de la caja de fusibles... Asi que la unica solucion es obtener una usada y colocarsela si esta buena el problema..se resolvera...
My Honda died at work when I got it back on I had a bunch of lights that came on which is
-check abs
-check vsa
- power steering
- e brake (BRAKE)
Anyone know why? None of these have ever came on before
You need to unplug battery and leave it for a while then plug it back..or connect computer to scan and see what it tells you....
Those are signs of a Bad alternator brother
Thank the both of you I have gotten a new battery and we will see got it goes So far so good but if it’s an alternator it will kill the new battery right
@@musingexistence269 a good alternator wont kill your battery...
Ago los mismos paso y se borra. Pero nose si me vuelva aparecer
I have same problem with mine. Battery light came on and off for about few months. Charged battery at 100%. Few days later car died. So I replaced the alternator. Drove for less then 20 miles. Car died again. Replace ELD still didnt work. Please help
Now dashboard light and warning light all came on
Have you changed the whole fuse box module remember everything on the car electrically wise runs out of there...
@@snoopy1164 no I have not. If change what are the chance it'll fix the problem. Can I get it used or has to be new from dealer ?
You can get a good used one.. most likely it will fix the problem of draining your battery
@@snoopy1164 thank you so much I will try that and see how things go.
Hello! How did you solve the issue?
Change your whole fuse box. There is a module that drains the battery and the fuse box is all compact.. so no way to replace the module
I have changed the alternator 3 times, the last one is from the honda dealer, witch costed me a lot of money, and autozone guys who measure the charge of battery told me that is good the battery...that the issue is the alternator. Still continues say same thing and my car have the same problem, it doesn't start after parking it, and when l starts it dosen't turns on and l have to ask some one to charge the battery and after it starts again but the voltages of alternator is no good.
@@geidicalcagno pull fuse 29 inside the engine compartment.. leave it off for a period of time you consider that battery would drain before.. come back and start the car. if the car start no problem... is exactly what i told you before... the fuse box is compact and all the modules are inside in this case is the door lock module that stays active even tho you don't notice it.. it will drain your battery. fuse 29 controls the locks and some other modules i don't remember which ones now. but that was the problem with the car i have in the video...
Hola Javi muy buen video, te felicito por hacer algo por ayudar.
Sabes tengo el problema de que en mi accord 2014 EXL NAVI se descarga la batería al siguiente día de que la dejo sin usar el carro revise con una pinza amperimétrica y me marca fuga de corriente descubrí que al desconectar el Door múltiplex del lado del conductor baja a normal y ya no hay esa fuga compre el switch que trae el que baja y sube los vidrios y los seguros del carro pero la fuga sigue igual con el nuevo switch. Al iniciar el chequeo vi que el fuse 23 de la caja de fusibles donde esta el motor lo sacaba y la fuga desaparecía. Ojalá me ayudes a descubrir porque esto ya me está volviendo loco. Saludos.
Gracias... Dejame revisar uno igual... Y diagnosticar el problema... Recuerda que la memoria de control ahora esta toda incluida en la caja de los fusibles.. es una sola placa con todo integrado.. puede que no sea el switch. Al contrario el integrado que funciona como modulo... Investigo y te paso alguna informacion.
@@snoopy1164 Gracias por responderme el modulo que dices ¿es el que se llama MICU? porque ya intuía que posiblemente sea eso, se me pasó comentar que cuando retiro el switch de la puerta y lo instalo en algunas ocasiones se oye un ruido como de un click ahí por los fusibles. Alguien me dijo que revisara los alambres, que los testeara pero no se como que debía ver pruebas a tierra, pero temo hacer un corto.
imagino que ¿ya te cansastes de esperar? o ¿no? 😂😭🥞💤
I got new batteries and alto and it stills go dead
you need a new eld, you figure it out?
I pulled out the minus chip, nothing happened, charging increased by 50% from 10.8 volts to 12.5, the car is suffering from undercharging!
Alternator new!
Most likely is the voltage regulator if it is in the alternator you need to double check the alternator.
Long story. It's counterintuitive, but the battery doesn't seem to charge UNLESS the headlights are on. If I keep them on when I drive, I have no problems. There is also some door opening and locking "manipulation" to keep it from draining. If you stop the car, put it in park with keys in your lap, hours later you will find the windows will still open and close. If you stop, open the drives side door. Close it and lock it the battery doesn't drain. There's much more to this but I didn't come her to write a novel.
Tengo el mismo problema todos esos carros salieron con el mismo problema porque estoy en las mismas
Remplaza la caja de fusibles.. esta debajo del dash del lado del conductor
@@snoopy1164 te contaré que medi cuanto es el consumo del carro, es muy bajo, esta en el rango aceptado. Mi problema está en el sensor negativo y su sistema de carga de Honda. Limpie el negativo, probé el alternador. Revise todo y medi. Solución sensor del negativo, en mi caso como no lo venden en mi país, me toco pedirlo a otro lado. El problema es que la batería el auto nunca la carga como tiene que ser y por eso queda baja de carga & así esta, asta que se muere de carga. Le coloque un negativo al sensor para que cargue bien la batería por mientras espero el sensor
My problem only happens when I use the ac
Weird... Could be your voltage regulator.
Check volt regulator.
if you have a question do not hesitate and ask me.
So far so good? Did you have any other battery or starting problems since then? I am considering this crv as my next car in the future.
@@joepearlzz8504 no problems at all since then... Running perfect...
@@snoopy1164thank you
Javi, what happens after 6:21? Sound went mute.
@@marcusa.rivera6377 the computer will send the system that the lights are on an it will start sending more current to keep up with it.
Y lo último que explicabas se fue la voz en tu video No se ecucho que estabas diciendo
trataba de decir que cuando enciendes las luces el computador le dice al alternador que necesita mas salida de corriente para abastecer lo suficiente cuando enciendes las luces. asi que tienes que tener algun cable que no esta haciendo tierra correctamente.
English would be nice in comments
Well if you have a question and i can help in english spanish or any other language i will try.
Thanks ive had this issue with my civic for years. Now radio dead whole car dead get jumps next day car dead , now sitting in driveway dead i now hate Honda
@@carolmartin6137 if your honda is 2011 and up most likely is inside the whole fuse box under dash passanger side... honda has integrated most of the electronic system in it. creating a problem to replace just one module since it is all in one central circuit. to fix you need to replace the whole unit. what year is your honda?
It is 2013
2013