This is one of those videos that can genuinely save people an awful lot of grief and hassle. I just bought a Civic Mk8 1.8 EX to use as a runabout (to save my Lexus GSF from parking dings, etc). It was very satisfying getting such a good car, loaded with kit (too good in fact for a runabout to use and abuse), for very little money, but within the first week after standing idle for 3 days I found the battery completely dead. I thought to myself, 'what on earth have I done - giving myself a load of hassle when I have a reliable car.'I knew that Hondas suffered from battery drain, so googled it and came across your video. Armed with multimeter, I followed your process and sure enough removing the HFT eliminates the excess drain. A mate of mine dismantles civics and has an identical module, so I now have the dilemma of whether to fit it so I have hands free, or leave it to avoid future problems (what would you recommend?). Either way, a top notch video that helped me quickly find/eliminate the problem which otherwise would have been a nightmare to find and have me regretting my decision to buy a second car. Well happy - thanks for sharing.
Hi I would definitely fit another module... I mean, it might fails again, but if lasts a few years... At least next time your battery gets drained, you will know where to go... Thank you for watching, and for such nice comment! 👍👍👍
Thank you!!! My 2010 Accord is having the same issue, I have pulled all the fuses off from both the driver side and the passenger side fuse boxes and the current won't go away. Honda is crazy not putting a fuse before this. I have to keep a supercharger jumper in my car and jump it almost every morning. I will try discconecting this and see if it fixes the issue.
Great vid. Been having problems with this for years 2006 Civic CDTi 2.2 - drain at approx 0.3 amps, which then settles at approx 0.18. In the past i've pulled every fuse and no change. Just experimented today and found that locking the car does the trick. Drops down to approx 0.03 amps. Unlock and it goes back up. Appreciate there are many reasons for parasitic draws and the certainly the blue tooth module is one of them - but I dont even have one.
Yes, you need to lock or simulate the car locked... That way all modules will go to standby mode... and you can have a much more accurate view of the draw on the car... Thank you for watching!
This is very similar to the issues we had. When you do the tests on measuring the current please do it with the car locked and alarm system on. Our issue was the Bluetooth module draining the battery.
I called a Honda garage yesterday. They said it would be £120 an hour to just check it. I said, that is just an open cheque. They replied they would call after 2 hours if they hadn't found the problem. Needless to say, I declined the opportunity to give them a minimum of £240 for what could be them just sitting drinking tea while laughing at the idiot who uses Honda garages for work.
@@gmonkman I found a local independent garage that is well respected. I had used them for more basic maintenance before as a test and they had been great. It was exactly the same issue as in this video, the Bluetooth module. They removed it and gave it to me. It took them a good few hours and they only charged me just over £100.
@@LordBillington42 thats great, I should have known better than even try an official Honda garage. They are shooting themselves in the foot - i'd now never purchase a car from the garage I called. Sod em.
@@gmonkman I called my local Honda dealer when I bought my civic with 75k miles on it. Just wanted it in for a general health check and service. They immediately said it would need spark plugs, timing check, oil and petrol filter change, transmission fluid change etc. etc. About as much work as the value of the car. I took that list to my local garage, they went through it, gave me better prices, and I'm scheduling in what is worth it for adding life to the car whenever funds permit.
Thanks had the same issue on my mother civic (2006). Was looking at getting the alternator changed , but thought i would try and confirm the drain, and then came across your video.
did you know you can set your meter to millivolts and then put the probes across fuses you will see see a small voltage in millivolts across the fuses indicating current flow through that fuse. Also get a uni-t 210e clamp meter off eBay it has a resolution of 1m/ma reads down to about 10ma saves disconnecting the battery
One Auto, Honda and Acura generally use two door switch inputs one for dash and one for micu. Very common to see misdiagnosis caused by doors being open and even more often the bonnet being open. But you knew all this already 😉 cheers
Man, I just want to say thank you, thank you, thank you. Using methodical approach I able to track down battery draining issue on my Honda Accord and guess what, it was the Bluetooth module.
Thanks for the video sir, been having this same problem with my 2007 civic 2.2cdti. I will certainly be checking this out and will let you know if it works. Thanks once again.
!! Here is how to remove the plastic panel !! I had the same switch between 0,22 and 0,54 a when car Was locked. My Bluetooth Box was Hot too. So i think i fixed it now with this Video. Thx for your help. :) Kinda sad tho u cutted out the most important part. (remove the plastic) Ok here is how i opened it (maybe it helps Anyone): (attention: left side wheel car) 1) clip off right side (i just pulled it) 2) remove small plastic over the wheel 3) push the clips there to lose upper part 4) open the door and clip off the triangle looking plastic on the very left side facing the door 5) unscrew the 1 screw here 6) clip off this part now You're welcome. =)
Very well done again sir. Thanks for sharing. In the US they also have many problems with the homelink unit. Fancy name for a Garage door opener module
Thank you very much sir, I followed your method and found out that I had the exact same problem! By disconnecting the Bluetooth module the battery drainage stopped.
lmsvvavr Btw my car (a honda civic 2.2 i-ctdi 2006) is having problems with the build in gps/audio system. I searched the internet but sadly couldn't find anything, do you think it has something to do with the Bluetooth module? The buttons "map" "climate" "menu" "audio" and "info" are not working / won't respond when pressed. Is there a bad fuse which can cause this or do you think the gps/radio itself is broken? The GPS screen is on and working as well as the big turning know with "push/ENT" on it. But all the buttons besides that button won't do anything. (see picture) PICTURE: imgur.com/OVhCbiF Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
Gerco I am not sure is those buttons are part of the module or if is just a control panel that communicates with the gps/navigation system... Obviously check fuses etc... Then I would try to see if live data shows the buttons being pressed... I never had one open, so not really sure... Sorry...
I have the same problem on my 2010 civic, when I remove the same fuse it’s from 0.66 to 0.01 I don’t have a telephone connection in my car any advice on what other fuses I can look at inside the car?
Great video... I've been having the same issue with the battery draining on my '06 Civic. Gonna try and diagnose the problem with a multimeter and see if its the same module causing the issue.
@@LMAutoRepairs thank you so much mate. Just went and purchased a multimeter.... had the same issue and removed the bluetooth module. I never use it anyway, as it was locked when I bought the car a few years ago. As soon as I went to the car after watching this video, I pushed the bluetooth talk button, which always asks me for a 4 digit number, nothing.... In conclusion, my Bluetooth module was also hot and doomed. It was nice and easy to find and remove too. Thanks again.
Thanks I had the same problem ,same car (other makes have this problem too),As I dont want to use the phone whilst driving I just took the module out ,that was 2 years ago,car running perfectly no more flat battery.And replacement module is expensive anyway.
Yeah I can remember handling a parasitic load like this but this time around it was the relay that another technician connected wrongly that was draining the battery. Good job 👌🏾
It's not boring ... I'm learning things ... even though you guys drive on the wrong side of the road :-) and your steering wheel is on the wrong side of the car ... but that's okay, still learning anyway.
Hi, thanks so much for your detailed analysis on this. Guess what? My Honda Civic Mk 8's Bluetooth gave up end of 2019. I found it unreliable and often failed to work at all when pushing the steering wheel buttons to use. No problems noted, however, during early weeks of UK lockdown with the battery (but I was driving often) then a few months later (less driving working from home) I had to charge the battery a lot! Anyway, enough was enough so I called the AA to check the battery which was the top of the range and only 2 years old and they found the 0.5-1amp discharge going on. Advice was ask my mechanic. Anyway, found your video at the top in UA-cam, tried it out as you suggested, got my multi-meter to verify and spot on! The Bluetooth module was warm (like you said) also. Can you believe it? Anyway, well pleased with the result thanks to you my friend. Wondering if it's safe to buy a pre-owned Bluetooth module to replace the faulty one? Any recommendations? Am guessing won't have much life in them since they're all at least 9-14 years old right? For the mk 8? Thanks again - God bless.
Yes, i guess you can get an used one, but as you said, the changes of running into the same issue are quite high... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
Any reason why you do not use a clamp on current probe when checking problems like this? Not only are there handheld types that can measure DC current, but also ones that can connect to an oscilloscope. It would save time having to break open the circult to insert a meter. Also thanks for posting these videos. I have learned a lot from them.
Hi At this time yes... because I didn't have one... Watch my later videos, and you will see me using those.... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
This something helpful! I just now having same problem with my Honda Civic 2009 model, so I'm definitely going to try it out and see how it helps my car from no power at all after not using it about one week. Thanks for this tip!
Excellent video, watched every bit. Would a thermal camera have helped? I've seen a cat phone come with a thermal camera built in. Just wondering . Thanks for your effort.
Nice video with good explanation. I have a Honda civic 2007 that has the exact same problem of draining battery. This has been informative and useful to me, thanks for sharing.
Hi. Great video! At 23.52 you mention about it not dropping below 0.13 & that something else must be causing a drain too. Mine is reading 0.13, I was curious to know what it was causing it for you?
If you carried on watching you will see that that then drops... when the car is locked and let to sleep... At that point was still modules awake... Is yours still dropping with the car locked etc... as per the video? 👍👍👍
Hi Good video..nice and clear. I just tested and failed my Bluetooth module on civic 2007..can I just unplug the unit and leave it or will that leave eml lights and codes?
Hi No... this will not trigger any lights... Just the Bluetooth functionality that will be inoperative obviously... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
Hoping this is my problem. Been driving me mad. Have had to have key recoded now as car wouldn't start and alarm wouldn't stop, so immobilised. Costing me a fortune. New battery néw alternator just to find out its a drain. Now weak alarm battery after all the flat battery problems. . Any idea how long I will need to run the car to charge the alarm battery ? Scared to turn the car off now.. I'm case I have same issue.
Following your video, I have notice that the interior light is drawing 3.5A. The interior lights includes: the spot lights, the ceiling light, the ignition key light, and the trunk light. Removing that fuse cause my car to not start. So far, I have managed to locate the trunk light connector, and disconnect it. It didn't change anything. Where can I find the other connectors?
dave M. That's weird.... the interior lights affecting the starting system.... You need to disconnect them at each point then... just like you did with the trunk... Which car are we talking about?
May I ask you?I have a probleme a litlle bit different probleme.When I lock my car doors with a key controler and do double click.In 10 min.hazard ligths comes on and drains my battery. Can you give me any advice. Many thanks
That sounds like the alarm being triggered... A scan can possibly tell will what is triggering the alarm to go off... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Great video. I have the same car and have a fault with the alternator not charging, it's been tested off the car and works, battery is brand new also. The fault that keeps coming back is power supply, IG1 power supply unit. Abs eps every light comes on due to battery being dead and not charging. Any ideas appreciated. I've given up
LM Auto Repairs yes, I'm now hearing a rapid relay click, it's the one at the back/ side of the battery, it is simultaneous in sync with the clicks dashing dim. Another click is coming from the back middle of engine. Also when I put a battery charger on the car and turn the ignition on, the black earth on the charger goes red hot and arcs and the needle goes right the way up?
Bowden999 It seems like you have either a massive current load, or a short... You need to start by disconnect all the circuits, then connect one by one, and see which one is causing the issue, the follow it... A amp clamp would be helpful...
I think I have a similar problem with my civic. Its now sunday and I the first time it happened was wednesday the breakdown guy came and jump started it which worked but told me something like the fan was draining the battery and to get it looked at asap! Thing is my garage is busy til Wednesday of this week and the car started fine thursday, friday and saturday but went to start it today and it was just flickering but dashboard lights came on! So annoying as I need to get to an interview. Hopefully I can get the garage to look at it and fix it! I've also been trying to find a mobile mechanic to look at it but they seem busy too! Do you know if this is an expensive repair?
Hi This fix is as cheap as beans... just unplug the Bluetooth module and that is it... Obviously, does not necessarily mean that you are having this exact same fault, need checking and go from there... Hope you get it sorted... Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs thanks. Well the breakdown guy told me it was something to do with the fan. And not being a mechanic I dont want to go messing around with my car lol
@@LMAutoRepairs ah that sucks, thanks for replying, ive been trying to open it all day but getting no success at all, any idea what i could search for on google that will tell me how to open it haha.
@@ilyNDshiva Surely it is just a couple of screws and a few clips... no? I figured it out myself that time, so not sure where to look on how to do it....
Ok here is how i opened it (maybe it helps Anyone): (attention: left side wheel car) 1) clip off right side (i just pulled it) 2) remove small plastic over the wheel 3) push the clips there to lose upper part 4) open the door and clip off the triangle looking plastic on the very left side facing the door 5) unscrew the 1 screw here 6) clip off this part now You're welcome. =) Btw my Bluetooth module was warm/Hot too so i think i fixed it with this Video. Thx.
Checked all the fuses under the bonnet and in the car. The amp reading on the meter was consistent at .70 amps It made no difference if any fuse was unplugged. The alternator is pushing out enough to charge the battery. We are still having issues. After one day of no use the battery loses the charge and does not have enough to crank the engine? Any ideas.
You can remove 1 fuse and leave over night, and carry on until you find it... but is not very practical... I just used a multimeter, as you have seen on the video... Thank you for watching!
I have a similar problem with my 2006 honda civic 2.2 cdti mk8 but mine is the se spec it doesn't have sat nav or Bluetooth module any help would be much appreciated?
I have the same car and same problem. Draw of about 0.18 amps. Didn't change after pulled every fuse under the bonnet and by the drivers door. Went up to about 0.5 amps for 20 seconds when opening doors. Found it was because I wasn't locking the car. Locked the car and dropped down to about 0.03 amps This might not be your issue ofc, but it was for me.
I have the exact same 2006 executive Honda Civic and exact same is happening to my battery. Does anyone know what is advised after I take the Bluetooth out. Is the wire safe or does something need done to the wiring or is it with just buying a exact same Bluetooth and fitting the new one thanks
Much appreciated if this works it’s gonna make life so much easier. So far no mechanic has been able to figure out what’s going on as other than this the car is perfect condition.
Hi. Could you please answer me a question. My car is 2017 Honda CR-V. After I parked it overnight, its battery died. I followed your instruction to check, and connected the meter with the negative point of the battery, but the meter just shew zero. So I don't know why. Thanks for your reply.
Should be... Check that your multimeter has an internal fuse, and that it is in good condition, when you use the multimeter to link the battery to the car, ensure that the ignition is off, doors closed etc... just as explained in the video...
HI can you please tell me what you did to get it from 0.13 to 0.01 ? I had the same problem was 0.47 with bluetooth plugged in after taking it out it drops to 0.13 like yours did.. what was the other issue ? Thanks Scott
tipsterno1 Hi In this case nothing else... thus was the only issue... When you check, ensure you lock the car and let all the modules to go into sleep mode....
Melissa Haughney It depends on which system you have in your car... in this case was a sat nav system also built in, which requires no codes. Otherwise you should have the code on the car's papers... if that has been lost, dealer or some online websites that can provide you with the code. Hope that helps.
@@LMAutoRepairs we have a Toyota hiace based regius van. Just bought it. It's got a drain over night, but main issue is the instrument cluster. If you leave the car overnight connect battery they come on but last between 2 and 5 mi Ute's before they flicker and go off. The gear position lights work and warning lights but can't see gauges and Speedo. Previous owner had swapped out the clocks as they went dead. Any help be appreciated
Start by find the battery drain... It might or might not be related to the cluster... If it is, you might be able to kill 2 birds with one stone... if that makes sense...
@@LMAutoRepairs previous owner said it goes flat overnight, we had it a week only issue we had was 2 days ago was inside the van and everything went dead. Put a battery we have on it, and it's not drained. Other thing is when clocks don't work between the acc and on position on key they flash on for split second
Pedro Stanjel Hi Using the multimeter to take and measure the load... be careful using this technique.. make sure your multimeter can take the load... Thank you for watching!
LM Auto Repairs thanks I am getting between 0.2-0.8 of an amp when the car is "sleeping" I've pulled all the fuses out the engine bay but nothing kills the drain like in your video. Should I try all the fuses under the dash? Anything else I could try?
Thanks for replying, it was also the bluetooth module.. but no fuses made the leak stop.. very strange. Module was very warm, I wonder if Honda had a recall I missed when the car was new?
Hi Some people commented that it looks like is a common issue... But all you need to do is disconnect the module and see what happens... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
My car has parasitic current draw of .02 amps under 12.6 volt 45ah battery. What would be the voltage of the car after sitting straight unused for 48 hour????
Thang Tons i guess something between 0,01 and 0,03 is normal. With 0,02 you car can be unused for 154 days with a 74ah Battery Voltage of Battery is normally between 12,4 and 12,6
@@777brightstar that voltage is low. Should be more like 12.9 for fully charged healthy battery under no significant load. If it was 12.4 at full charge that would indicate a battery near end of life.
where was that box located? i have an 06 si and mine has a dvd player installed on it and my battery drains, ive unplugged the fuse and still drains also tried unplugging the dvd itself still drains, then located the back up fuse #23 under the dash and it still has power when i unplug the positive terminal. what do you think it could be?
rhdadrian Hi It was located on the right hand side of the steering column... Anything I will tell you is going to be guessing... you need to do as you have been doing... remove fuses one by one and see which circuit is the culprit... from there just see what that circuit feeds...
Do you have to use the fuse load adaptor? Or can you just use the volt meter connections? I tried the connections and the readinds didnt seem correct, It showed like 10.65.. My battery drains from 12.5 to 10.00 in 30 hours
Hi You can just use the meter... but if the load is too high you damage it... You can't have 10 amps draw... that's way too much... Thank you for watching!
HI, I have a Honda Civic 2009 1.8 I-vtec and i have a similar issue, My battery light is constantly coming on as i drive, I've recently removed and "serviced'' the alternator, bought a brand new battery, performed a charge test and all was fine, however 20km into my drive to work my battery light came on. As a quick fix, as I've watched your video, could i lust remove the fuse from the exterior fuse box that caused the "your issue"? Also my car does not have bluetooth/hands free kit fitted in.
Haroon Mlima Hi I the case on the video I couldn't, because the circuit from the under hood fuse box was feeding other circuits on top of the one of the Bluetooth module... In your case, the light is coming on while driving... you might have a problem with the charging system... Does the light comes on when stationary? Does the battery discharges during the night?
Hi. With the new battery I purchased the warning light does not come one while stationary Only when the car is being driven. For the past two night's that has past, no on each occasion "in the morning' the car was able to start. If it possibly is a charging problem, it only while driving seems very suspect, as the alternator and battery test showed a good charge. Could it possibly be an intermittent alternator? i recently had the bushes changed on it.
Haroon Mlima I would do the following, would plug my multimeter on the cigarette lighter to monitor the voltages while driving... if when the light comes on the voltage drops below 13 volts then you know what to do next... test the cables from the alternator to the battery and finally the alternator again... I suppose you could connect the multimeter straight on the alternator output using some wires... in that way you measure the alternator only... if the voltage drops then, then you surely have a faulty alternator... But this last one involves wire connections and stuff... leave up to you to do it if you feel confident enough... Hope that helps...
Hi I have the same problem with my Honda civic 2007 diesel ctdi but it takes about 1 minute to go into sleep mode and some time it does not go into sleep mode.I notice I have a parasitic draw of .6amp when this fault occurs . any ideas !
john malepa You have to trace it down... by eliminating circuits that are good, until you find the one that is draining the battery. It can be loads of different things, as you can imagine...
1 drain here was from HFT control unit, wich i d/c , the other components aren't so easy to check... so i'm stuck with a 0.25A drain .... F16 = MICU, Immobilizer-keyless control unit, Gauge control module (tach), Gauge control module (speedo), Hands-Free Telephone control unit
crocop flo Ah... ok I understand now... I would say that if you have a fuse that feeds several components, and you have already established that the drain is coming from that circuit, I would suggest to start to disconnect one mudule/ component at the time in that circuit... until you find the culprit...
i did removed all fuses under dash 1 by 1 and no drain in any of it, only under-hood when i remove the fuse F16, the drain drops to 0.03 just like in this video... but like i said, i already removed the HFT module and my drain dropped from ~0.50 to 0.25 , i don't know what else to check/remove.
the components in F16 circuit are: MICU, Immobilizer-keyless control unit, Gauge control module (tach), Gauge control module (speedo), Hands-Free Telephone control unit , i don't know what are any of these but the HFT :)
@@crocop2o12 appreciate this was 4 years ago, but for anyone else, you'll get a drain of 0.25 amps when the car is unlocked. Lock and close everything and it'll go to an acceptable 0.02 amps, given no other issues.
عبدالله العريبي Hi Thank you for watching and for your comment. My bad that I didn't mentioned what the module is for, but if you would watch carefully you would see the bluetooth symbol on the label... it was the phone module...
Hard to find... i was sure the fault was from a frequency module just like the smartphone issue . jumping the amperage going straight to frequency...this it is always in physics and electronic. in this way iphone use sofware upgrade to kill their battery , was proven .
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radu soptea They work well as long as the component generates enough heat and is near Line of sight. And most importantly is that the vehicle has not been sitting in the sunlight warming up.
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i have the same civic ex, i removed the HFT bluetooth long time ago (it was draining 0.21) and i still have a 0.29 drain , coming from same F16 fuse , how can i find who's draining that 0.29?
go go grab a wiring diagram from Bbb industries (free) . And we can go through how to test it. Any parasitic draw should be tested with a diagram. Fuse box information is often incomplete in an overview. More detailed information is available with a proper diagram.
This is one of those videos that can genuinely save people an awful lot of grief and hassle. I just bought a Civic Mk8 1.8 EX to use as a runabout (to save my Lexus GSF from parking dings, etc). It was very satisfying getting such a good car, loaded with kit (too good in fact for a runabout to use and abuse), for very little money, but within the first week after standing idle for 3 days I found the battery completely dead. I thought to myself, 'what on earth have I done - giving myself a load of hassle when I have a reliable car.'I knew that Hondas suffered from battery drain, so googled it and came across your video. Armed with multimeter, I followed your process and sure enough removing the HFT eliminates the excess drain. A mate of mine dismantles civics and has an identical module, so I now have the dilemma of whether to fit it so I have hands free, or leave it to avoid future problems (what would you recommend?). Either way, a top notch video that helped me quickly find/eliminate the problem which otherwise would have been a nightmare to find and have me regretting my decision to buy a second car. Well happy - thanks for sharing.
Hi
I would definitely fit another module... I mean, it might fails again, but if lasts a few years...
At least next time your battery gets drained, you will know where to go...
Thank you for watching, and for such nice comment!
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Thank you!!! My 2010 Accord is having the same issue, I have pulled all the fuses off from both the driver side and the passenger side fuse boxes and the current won't go away. Honda is crazy not putting a fuse before this. I have to keep a supercharger jumper in my car and jump it almost every morning. I will try discconecting this and see if it fixes the issue.
Good luck...
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Great vid. Been having problems with this for years 2006 Civic CDTi 2.2 - drain at approx 0.3 amps, which then settles at approx 0.18. In the past i've pulled every fuse and no change. Just experimented today and found that locking the car does the trick. Drops down to approx 0.03 amps. Unlock and it goes back up.
Appreciate there are many reasons for parasitic draws and the certainly the blue tooth module is one of them - but I dont even have one.
Yes, you need to lock or simulate the car locked...
That way all modules will go to standby mode... and you can have a much more accurate view of the draw on the car...
Thank you for watching!
This is very similar to the issues we had. When you do the tests on measuring the current please do it with the car locked and alarm system on. Our issue was the Bluetooth module draining the battery.
Well, is not similar then... have you watched the entire video?
It took a lot of work to find the problem. I am going through the same process. Hopefully your video will make it easy. Thanks!
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My same model of civic is going to a garage this week to get the same things checked. I hope they do as good a job as you.
😊
Hope they get it sorted...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I called a Honda garage yesterday. They said it would be £120 an hour to just check it. I said, that is just an open cheque. They replied they would call after 2 hours if they hadn't found the problem.
Needless to say, I declined the opportunity to give them a minimum of £240 for what could be them just sitting drinking tea while laughing at the idiot who uses Honda garages for work.
@@gmonkman I found a local independent garage that is well respected. I had used them for more basic maintenance before as a test and they had been great.
It was exactly the same issue as in this video, the Bluetooth module. They removed it and gave it to me. It took them a good few hours and they only charged me just over £100.
@@LordBillington42 thats great, I should have known better than even try an official Honda garage. They are shooting themselves in the foot - i'd now never purchase a car from the garage I called. Sod em.
@@gmonkman I called my local Honda dealer when I bought my civic with 75k miles on it. Just wanted it in for a general health check and service. They immediately said it would need spark plugs, timing check, oil and petrol filter change, transmission fluid change etc. etc. About as much work as the value of the car.
I took that list to my local garage, they went through it, gave me better prices, and I'm scheduling in what is worth it for adding life to the car whenever funds permit.
Thanks had the same issue on my mother civic (2006). Was looking at getting the alternator changed , but thought i would try and confirm the drain, and then came across your video.
That's great... you save some 💷
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Nice find, and good practise to always completely close all the doors to best simulate the conditions in which the battery drains.
Thanks
did you know you can set your meter to millivolts and then put the probes across fuses you will see see a small voltage in millivolts across the fuses indicating current flow through that fuse. Also get a uni-t 210e clamp meter off eBay it has a resolution of 1m/ma reads down to about 10ma saves disconnecting the battery
Hi
Thank you for the tips...
One Auto, Honda and Acura generally use two door switch inputs one for dash and one for micu. Very common to see misdiagnosis caused by doors being open and even more often the bonnet being open. But you knew all this already 😉 cheers
Man, I just want to say thank you, thank you, thank you. Using methodical approach I able to track down battery draining issue on my Honda Accord and guess what, it was the Bluetooth module.
That's great!
Glad to know it helped you!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks for the video sir, been having this same problem with my 2007 civic 2.2cdti. I will certainly be checking this out and will let you know if it works. Thanks once again.
Hi
Hope you find the issue!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Many thanks this help my civic battery drain , I was going to buy a new battery but you’ve save me from buying one . Once again thank you 😊
That's great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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!! Here is how to remove the plastic panel !!
I had the same switch between 0,22 and 0,54 a when car Was locked. My Bluetooth Box was Hot too. So i think i fixed it now with this Video. Thx for your help. :) Kinda sad tho u cutted out the most important part. (remove the plastic)
Ok here is how i opened it (maybe it helps Anyone):
(attention: left side wheel car)
1) clip off right side (i just pulled it)
2) remove small plastic over the wheel
3) push the clips there to lose upper part
4) open the door and clip off the triangle looking plastic on the very left side facing the door
5) unscrew the 1 screw here
6) clip off this part now
You're welcome. =)
Very well done again sir. Thanks for sharing. In the US they also have many problems with the homelink unit. Fancy name for a Garage door opener module
ONBOARDTECH333
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
New Level Auto do you have a part number
Thank you very much sir, I followed your method and found out that I had the exact same problem! By disconnecting the Bluetooth module the battery drainage stopped.
Gerco
That's great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
lmsvvavr Btw my car (a honda civic 2.2 i-ctdi 2006) is having problems with the build in gps/audio system. I searched the internet but sadly couldn't find anything, do you think it has something to do with the Bluetooth module? The buttons "map" "climate" "menu" "audio" and "info" are not working / won't respond when pressed. Is there a bad fuse which can cause this or do you think the gps/radio itself is broken? The GPS screen is on and working as well as the big turning know with "push/ENT" on it. But all the buttons besides that button won't do anything. (see picture)
PICTURE: imgur.com/OVhCbiF
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance
Gerco
I am not sure is those buttons are part of the module or if is just a control panel that communicates with the gps/navigation system...
Obviously check fuses etc...
Then I would try to see if live data shows the buttons being pressed...
I never had one open, so not really sure...
Sorry...
lmsvvavr Thanks!
Gerco
No worries...
Thank you so much! I fixed the same problem in my civic by removing that same module!
😊
That's great!...
👍👍
Appreciate this video man , this ended all my battery nightmares 😂
😅
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Thank you for this, my civic had the same problem, saved me some money although I had already bought a battery thinking it was that.👍
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Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I have the same problem on my 2010 civic, when I remove the same fuse it’s from 0.66 to 0.01 I don’t have a telephone connection in my car any advice on what other fuses I can look at inside the car?
Check what else the fuse powers...
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Great video... I've been having the same issue with the battery draining on my '06 Civic. Gonna try and diagnose the problem with a multimeter and see if its the same module causing the issue.
😊
Good luck!
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@@LMAutoRepairs thank you so much mate. Just went and purchased a multimeter.... had the same issue and removed the bluetooth module. I never use it anyway, as it was locked when I bought the car a few years ago. As soon as I went to the car after watching this video, I pushed the bluetooth talk button, which always asks me for a 4 digit number, nothing.... In conclusion, my Bluetooth module was also hot and doomed. It was nice and easy to find and remove too. Thanks again.
@@mattlewin6868
That's great!
👍👍👍
Thanks I had the same problem ,same car (other makes have this problem too),As I dont want to use the phone whilst driving I just took the module out ,that was 2 years ago,car running perfectly no more flat battery.And replacement module is expensive anyway.
Thats great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Yeah I can remember handling a parasitic load like this but this time around it was the relay that another technician connected wrongly that was draining the battery. Good job 👌🏾
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Hi. Which relay switch was the problem.
It's not boring ... I'm learning things ... even though you guys drive on the wrong side of the road :-) and your steering wheel is on the wrong side of the car ... but that's okay, still learning anyway.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Or, is yours that is on the wrong side?🤔
Brilliant video, solved my problem with my civic mk 8, thank you
😊
That's great!
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Good job. Saved me loads of time, glad I found your video before I started.
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😊
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Hi, thanks so much for your detailed analysis on this. Guess what? My Honda Civic Mk 8's Bluetooth gave up end of 2019. I found it unreliable and often failed to work at all when pushing the steering wheel buttons to use. No problems noted, however, during early weeks of UK lockdown with the battery (but I was driving often) then a few months later (less driving working from home) I had to charge the battery a lot! Anyway, enough was enough so I called the AA to check the battery which was the top of the range and only 2 years old and they found the 0.5-1amp discharge going on. Advice was ask my mechanic. Anyway, found your video at the top in UA-cam, tried it out as you suggested, got my multi-meter to verify and spot on! The Bluetooth module was warm (like you said) also. Can you believe it? Anyway, well pleased with the result thanks to you my friend. Wondering if it's safe to buy a pre-owned Bluetooth module to replace the faulty one? Any recommendations? Am guessing won't have much life in them since they're all at least 9-14 years old right? For the mk 8? Thanks again - God bless.
Yes, i guess you can get an used one, but as you said, the changes of running into the same issue are quite high...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
👍👍👍
Any reason why you do not use a clamp on current probe when checking problems like this? Not only are there handheld types that can measure DC current, but also ones that can connect to an oscilloscope. It would save time having to break open the circult to insert a meter.
Also thanks for posting these videos. I have learned a lot from them.
Hi
At this time yes... because I didn't have one...
Watch my later videos, and you will see me using those....
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs I guess I have not run into a later video yet where you use it. Good to know you have that option available to you now.
God bless you. I'm subscribing from this video alone.
☺️
Thanks!
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This something helpful! I just now having same problem with my Honda Civic 2009 model, so I'm definitely going to try it out and see how it helps my car from no power at all after not using it about one week. Thanks for this tip!
🤞
Good luck!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I like this method of a parasitic draw test. I'm guessing using the inline fuse tester like that protects the internal multimeter fuse too
Yes it does...
👍👍👍
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Another excellent video.
Stumbled across your channel recently, I'm now subscribed and an avoid follower.
Keep up the good work..
wardybasher
That's great!
Thank for watching and for your comment!
Excellent video, watched every bit. Would a thermal camera have helped? I've seen a cat phone come with a thermal camera built in. Just wondering . Thanks for your effort.
Indeed it would have helped...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Great job and channel. Please continue, we always have some ideas to solve our problems when we watch nice worship repairs tips. Thanks.
Hi
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thank you so much i really like this car, now l might even like more l am going to check this out this was a great a presentation very well done.
☺️
Thanks!
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LONG video, could do with some editing buddy. But thank you for the video, this was exactly the problem on my 2006 civic!! 🙌
🤪
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Nice video with good explanation.
I have a Honda civic 2007 that has the exact same problem of draining battery. This has been informative and useful to me, thanks for sharing.
Raj Annadurai
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Raj Annadurai did you find the reason for the drain? I have an 07 doing it as well, thanks
same issue - taking to the garage on Tues
Thank you very much! Had exactly the same problem! All the best🍻
😊
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cheers different problem but helped me fix light problem on a civic
dave baker
👍
The bluetooth module looks good, pretty sure the corresponding push buttons on the steering wheels are damaged causing the module to stay on.
Could be...
Thank you for watching and for your comment...
👍👍👍
Oh, uni-t do a great clamp meter, the ut210e - well worth it. Expect you've bought one since you posted this vid in 2016 :)
I actually did...😋
Love this guys videos! Always helpful gald you got ads running!
Thanks!
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Hi. Great video! At 23.52 you mention about it not dropping below 0.13 & that something else must be causing a drain too. Mine is reading 0.13, I was curious to know what it was causing it for you?
If you carried on watching you will see that that then drops... when the car is locked and let to sleep...
At that point was still modules awake...
Is yours still dropping with the car locked etc... as per the video?
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@@LMAutoRepairs ah right. Mine is sitting at that level with everything locked 😩
In that case you need to further investigate what is causing that drain...
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Did you ever solve why the Bluetooth module was causing the issue? Did you repair the module itself or did you just buy another one?
Owner was not bothered about the Bluetooth...
So I never done anything else to it...
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Hello. I have the same problem with my 2007 Civic. Is it possible to drive without the BT unit or generate it more problems?
Thanks a lot!
Hi
No, no problems at all...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
I can’t find the module… I have a 2006 Honda Civic EX, and it’s not by the fuses on the driver side, nor is it behind the glove box, any help please??
Are you sure you have the Bluetooth option on your car?
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Hi
Good video..nice and clear.
I just tested and failed my Bluetooth module on civic 2007..can I just unplug the unit and leave it or will that leave eml lights and codes?
Hi
No... this will not trigger any lights...
Just the Bluetooth functionality that will be inoperative obviously...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs
So now I unplug this Bluetooth unit and get B1029 loss of comms to micu unit
Great video buddy.
☺️
Thanks!
👍👍👍
Hoping this is my problem. Been driving me mad. Have had to have key recoded now as car wouldn't start and alarm wouldn't stop, so immobilised. Costing me a fortune. New battery néw alternator just to find out its a drain. Now weak alarm battery after all the flat battery problems. . Any idea how long I will need to run the car to charge the alarm battery ? Scared to turn the car off now.. I'm case I have same issue.
Thank you you have really helped me I have liked and subscribed all the best
No worries...
Really appreciated, hope you enjoy the channel!
Following your video, I have notice that the interior light is drawing 3.5A. The interior lights includes: the spot lights, the ceiling light, the ignition key light, and the trunk light. Removing that fuse cause my car to not start. So far, I have managed to locate the trunk light connector, and disconnect it. It didn't change anything. Where can I find the other connectors?
dave M.
That's weird.... the interior lights affecting the starting system....
You need to disconnect them at each point then... just like you did with the trunk...
Which car are we talking about?
LM Auto Repairs 2003 Honda civic lx
dave M.
Ok...
You need to follow a similar procedure as the one on the video, and narrow down your parasitic drain...
May I ask you?I have a probleme a litlle bit different probleme.When I lock my car doors with a key controler and do double click.In 10 min.hazard ligths comes on and drains my battery.
Can you give me any advice.
Many thanks
That sounds like the alarm being triggered...
A scan can possibly tell will what is triggering the alarm to go off...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
civics before 2000 were the best.
Where did you but the fuse load adaptor? I tried 3 different auto part stores
EBay...😉
Where you based? How much did you charge for this? I have same car with similar problem..
My 06 civic lx doesn't have Bluetooth and still has this problem. Perplexing problem that old Hondas have.
Same or similar testing procedures... and you will find what is discharging the battery...
Better if you have a clamp meter...👍👍👍
Great video. I have the same car and have a fault with the alternator not charging, it's been tested off the car and works, battery is brand new also. The fault that keeps coming back is power supply, IG1 power supply unit. Abs eps every light comes on due to battery being dead and not charging. Any ideas appreciated. I've given up
So, have you inspect all the wires from the alternator back to the battery?
Thank you for watching!
LM Auto Repairs yes, I'm now hearing a rapid relay click, it's the one at the back/ side of the battery, it is simultaneous in sync with the clicks dashing dim. Another click is coming from the back middle of engine. Also when I put a battery charger on the car and turn the ignition on, the black earth on the charger goes red hot and arcs and the needle goes right the way up?
Bowden999
It seems like you have either a massive current load, or a short...
You need to start by disconnect all the circuits, then connect one by one, and see which one is causing the issue, the follow it...
A amp clamp would be helpful...
Thanks you for this valuable information.
Thanks!
👍👍👍
I have the same problem, does anyone know where I can get a new module? Either Honda or a brand that will work in a Civic 2016?
i put the trim away but dont know where to find the module
I think I have a similar problem with my civic. Its now sunday and I the first time it happened was wednesday the breakdown guy came and jump started it which worked but told me something like the fan was draining the battery and to get it looked at asap! Thing is my garage is busy til Wednesday of this week and the car started fine thursday, friday and saturday but went to start it today and it was just flickering but dashboard lights came on!
So annoying as I need to get to an interview. Hopefully I can get the garage to look at it and fix it! I've also been trying to find a mobile mechanic to look at it but they seem busy too! Do you know if this is an expensive repair?
Hi
This fix is as cheap as beans... just unplug the Bluetooth module and that is it...
Obviously, does not necessarily mean that you are having this exact same fault, need checking and go from there...
Hope you get it sorted...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs thanks. Well the breakdown guy told me it was something to do with the fan. And not being a mechanic I dont want to go messing around with my car lol
Fair enough...
Hey thanks for the tutorial!! I'm just wondering how did you remove the bottom panel to get got the Bluetooth?
Was some time ago... I can't remember now...
Sorry...
@@LMAutoRepairs ah that sucks, thanks for replying, ive been trying to open it all day but getting no success at all, any idea what i could search for on google that will tell me how to open it haha.
@@ilyNDshiva
Surely it is just a couple of screws and a few clips... no?
I figured it out myself that time, so not sure where to look on how to do it....
Goddamn, u removed the most important Part of your Video. Now im stuck :(
Ok here is how i opened it (maybe it helps Anyone):
(attention: left side wheel car)
1) clip off right side (i just pulled it)
2) remove small plastic over the wheel
3) push the clips there to lose upper part
4) open the door and clip off the triangle looking plastic on the very left side facing the door
5) unscrew the 1 screw here
6) clip off this part now
You're welcome. =)
Btw my Bluetooth module was warm/Hot too so i think i fixed it with this Video. Thx.
Great detailed video. Cheers
Thanks!
👍👍👍
Checked all the fuses under the bonnet and in the car. The amp reading on the meter was consistent at .70 amps It made no difference if any fuse was unplugged. The alternator is pushing out enough to charge the battery. We are still having issues. After one day of no use the battery loses the charge and does not have enough to crank the engine? Any ideas.
@@stephenwelch3407
Disconnect the alternator... in case is the alternator that is draining the battery...
Hi, can i check the battery draining fuse or problem without the equipment you used? If not whats the equipment you used?
You can remove 1 fuse and leave over night, and carry on until you find it... but is not very practical...
I just used a multimeter, as you have seen on the video...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs thanks
I have a similar problem with my 2006 honda civic 2.2 cdti mk8 but mine is the se spec it doesn't have sat nav or Bluetooth module any help would be much appreciated?
Same principle to diagnose it...
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@@LMAutoRepairs thank you
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I have the same car and same problem. Draw of about 0.18 amps. Didn't change after pulled every fuse under the bonnet and by the drivers door. Went up to about 0.5 amps for 20 seconds when opening doors. Found it was because I wasn't locking the car. Locked the car and dropped down to about 0.03 amps
This might not be your issue ofc, but it was for me.
I have the exact same 2006 executive Honda Civic and exact same is happening to my battery. Does anyone know what is advised after I take the Bluetooth out. Is the wire safe or does something need done to the wiring or is it with just buying a exact same Bluetooth and fitting the new one thanks
Once unplugged if the battery stops discharging, your wiring should be fine...
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Much appreciated if this works it’s gonna make life so much easier. So far no mechanic has been able to figure out what’s going on as other than this the car is perfect condition.
Got an 07 civic hybrid, put 11 batterys in it in 1 year
Hi. Could you please answer me a question. My car is 2017 Honda CR-V. After I parked it overnight, its battery died. I followed your instruction to check, and connected the meter with the negative point of the battery, but the meter just shew zero. So I don't know why. Thanks for your reply.
Which meter are you using?
Have you set it up in Amp mode?
Don't overload the meter, otherwise the fuse will blow on it...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs I use a Commercial Electric Digital Multimeter MAS830B and i put it on Am10A point, and red cable put on 10ADC point, that's right?
Should be...
Check that your multimeter has an internal fuse, and that it is in good condition, when you use the multimeter to link the battery to the car, ensure that the ignition is off, doors closed etc... just as explained in the video...
Yes, i did. when use meter check battery Voltage, the meter is work, i do not why?
Something is not right with the multimeter, or with the way you are connecting it...
Impossible to have a reading of zero...
hi LM,i havr a question.what is the connection between regular 12v battery and hybrid batteries of HCH car.
Thank you man!
Thanks!
👍👍👍
can you still drive car with the module out?
Yes... you only loose the phone/Bluetooth connection...
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Thanks! Nice! Done!
Thanks!
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Very helpful can you buy a replacement for the bluetooth? Thanks
I guess you can...
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Thank you for watching!
HI can you please tell me what you did to get it from 0.13 to 0.01 ? I had the same problem was 0.47 with bluetooth plugged in after taking it out it drops to 0.13 like yours did.. what was the other issue ? Thanks Scott
tipsterno1
Hi
In this case nothing else... thus was the only issue...
When you check, ensure you lock the car and let all the modules to go into sleep mode....
lmsvvavr ok really appreciate the reply. I must have another issue as well as that one.. 😔
Very well done
hockeyeast
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
great thanks, but i have a question. what about radio code, i know when you disconnect the battery you need anti theft radio code later ?
Melissa Haughney
It depends on which system you have in your car... in this case was a sat nav system also built in, which requires no codes.
Otherwise you should have the code on the car's papers... if that has been lost, dealer or some online websites that can provide you with the code.
Hope that helps.
never had a problem with my 2006 civic
Hi lmautos where are you based. Or could I ask advice
Ask...
If I can help...
👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs we have a Toyota hiace based regius van. Just bought it. It's got a drain over night, but main issue is the instrument cluster. If you leave the car overnight connect battery they come on but last between 2 and 5 mi Ute's before they flicker and go off. The gear position lights work and warning lights but can't see gauges and Speedo. Previous owner had swapped out the clocks as they went dead. Any help be appreciated
Start by find the battery drain...
It might or might not be related to the cluster...
If it is, you might be able to kill 2 birds with one stone... if that makes sense...
@@LMAutoRepairs previous owner said it goes flat overnight, we had it a week only issue we had was 2 days ago was inside the van and everything went dead. Put a battery we have on it, and it's not drained. Other thing is when clocks don't work between the acc and on position on key they flash on for split second
Difficult to say...
Check that the ignition switch is not playing up...
Check power and grounds, connections etc...
Boot (UK English) Trunk (US English) :-)
Got you...😉
What is "normal"? How much SHOULD the car draw off the battery when parked?
Hi
It is around 0.05 or less amps... anything above that and you probably have something draining the battery...
How do you connect your multi meter leads up to test? It looks like you connect both leads to negative terminal? This correct?
Pedro Stanjel
Hi
Using the multimeter to take and measure the load... be careful using this technique.. make sure your multimeter can take the load...
Thank you for watching!
LM Auto Repairs thanks I am getting between 0.2-0.8 of an amp when the car is "sleeping" I've pulled all the fuses out the engine bay but nothing kills the drain like in your video. Should I try all the fuses under the dash? Anything else I could try?
Pedro Stanjel
Yes... try the ones under the dash...
Thanks for replying, it was also the bluetooth module.. but no fuses made the leak stop.. very strange. Module was very warm, I wonder if Honda had a recall I missed when the car was new?
Pedro Stanjel
Glad you found the problem...
I never researched that... it might be that was a recall...
Thank you for the feedback!
Hi can u tell me if this is a common fault my civic is type s with same prob year is 07
Hi
Some people commented that it looks like is a common issue...
But all you need to do is disconnect the module and see what happens...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs thanks very much for your help
@@paullaughton8614
Not a problem!
My car has parasitic current draw of .02 amps under 12.6 volt 45ah battery. What would be the voltage of the car after sitting straight unused for 48 hour????
Thang Tons i guess something between 0,01 and 0,03 is normal. With 0,02 you car can be unused for 154 days with a 74ah Battery
Voltage of Battery is normally between 12,4 and 12,6
@@777brightstar that voltage is low. Should be more like 12.9 for fully charged healthy battery under no significant load. If it was 12.4 at full charge that would indicate a battery near end of life.
where was that box located? i have an 06 si and mine has a dvd player installed on it and my battery drains, ive unplugged the fuse and still drains also tried unplugging the dvd itself still drains, then located the back up fuse #23 under the dash and it still has power when i unplug the positive terminal. what do you think it could be?
rhdadrian
Hi
It was located on the right hand side of the steering column...
Anything I will tell you is going to be guessing... you need to do as you have been doing... remove fuses one by one and see which circuit is the culprit... from there just see what that circuit feeds...
Its located directly attached to the plastic u need to take off (left knee area on left side wheel car)
excellent video companion the box is the hands-free? Traductor google jsaja gracias
Hi
Yes... it is the hands free module...
Thank you for watching!
Do you have to use the fuse load adaptor? Or can you just use the volt meter connections? I tried the connections and the readinds didnt seem correct, It showed like 10.65.. My battery drains from 12.5 to 10.00 in 30 hours
Hi
You can just use the meter... but if the load is too high you damage it...
You can't have 10 amps draw... that's way too much...
Thank you for watching!
Thank you
👍👍👍
I dont have to jump start anymore, you helped me alot, really appreciate it 💯
@@yawmensah8315
That's great!
👍👍👍👍
HI, I have a Honda Civic 2009 1.8 I-vtec and i have a similar issue, My battery light is constantly coming on as i drive, I've recently removed and "serviced'' the alternator, bought a brand new battery, performed a charge test and all was fine, however 20km into my drive to work my battery light came on. As a quick fix, as I've watched your video, could i lust remove the fuse from the exterior fuse box that caused the "your issue"?
Also my car does not have bluetooth/hands free kit fitted in.
Haroon Mlima
Hi
I the case on the video I couldn't, because the circuit from the under hood fuse box was feeding other circuits on top of the one of the Bluetooth module...
In your case, the light is coming on while driving... you might have a problem with the charging system...
Does the light comes on when stationary?
Does the battery discharges during the night?
Hi.
With the new battery I purchased the warning light does not come one while stationary Only when the car is being driven.
For the past two night's that has past, no on each occasion "in the morning' the car was able to start.
If it possibly is a charging problem, it only while driving seems very suspect, as the alternator and battery test showed a good charge.
Could it possibly be an intermittent alternator? i recently had the bushes changed on it.
Haroon Mlima
I would do the following, would plug my multimeter on the cigarette lighter to monitor the voltages while driving... if when the light comes on the voltage drops below 13 volts then you know what to do next... test the cables from the alternator to the battery and finally the alternator again...
I suppose you could connect the multimeter straight on the alternator output using some wires... in that way you measure the alternator only... if the voltage drops then, then you surely have a faulty alternator...
But this last one involves wire connections and stuff... leave up to you to do it if you feel confident enough...
Hope that helps...
Thanks a lot man, ill surely going to try it out.
Windscreen (UK English) Windshield (US English) :-)
Lol....
Is like a completely different language!
😋
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hi I have the same problem with my Honda civic 2007 diesel ctdi but it takes about 1 minute to go into sleep mode and some time it does not go into sleep mode.I notice I have a parasitic draw of .6amp when this fault occurs . any ideas !
john malepa
You have to trace it down... by eliminating circuits that are good, until you find the one that is draining the battery.
It can be loads of different things, as you can imagine...
Thank you for the reply
Easy, the problem is the steering wheel is on the wrong side m8.
As well... lol
Thank you for watching!
1 drain here was from HFT control unit, wich i d/c , the other components aren't so easy to check... so i'm stuck with a 0.25A drain .... F16 = MICU, Immobilizer-keyless control unit, Gauge control module (tach), Gauge control module (speedo), Hands-Free Telephone control unit
crocop flo
Ah... ok I understand now...
I would say that if you have a fuse that feeds several components, and you have already established that the drain is coming from that circuit, I would suggest to start to disconnect one mudule/ component at the time in that circuit... until you find the culprit...
i did removed all fuses under dash 1 by 1 and no drain in any of it, only under-hood when i remove the fuse F16, the drain drops to 0.03 just like in this video... but like i said, i already removed the HFT module and my drain dropped from ~0.50 to 0.25 , i don't know what else to check/remove.
the components in F16 circuit are: MICU, Immobilizer-keyless control unit, Gauge control module (tach), Gauge control module (speedo), Hands-Free Telephone control unit , i don't know what are any of these but the HFT :)
@@crocop2o12 appreciate this was 4 years ago, but for anyone else, you'll get a drain of 0.25 amps when the car is unlocked. Lock and close everything and it'll go to an acceptable 0.02 amps, given no other issues.
Me after watching this video: teleport in the car and unplug the Bluetooth module ○.●
😅
👍👍👍
Good job but it's the module of what
عبدالله العريبي
Hi
Thank you for watching and for your comment.
My bad that I didn't mentioned what the module is for, but if you would watch carefully you would see the bluetooth symbol on the label... it was the phone module...
yes i see the symbol and think you very mutch
I'm having the same problem...honda won't tell you how much they cost new!
I don't know the price of new ones either...
Strange, as they should be able to sell it...
👍👍👍
All they will tell you is that it is a part that they stock, but want your car in for a diagnostic at £130
Honda won't even tell you part numbers! I've had Fords, Vauxhalls, VW dealers will always oblidge
Never heard of that...
🙄
Hard to find... i was sure the fault was from a frequency module just like the smartphone issue .
jumping the amperage going straight to frequency...this it is always in physics and electronic.
in this way iphone use sofware upgrade to kill their battery , was proven .
Lol
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Soy de Uruguay ...vivo en espain
In my case, I suspect the idiots that changed the radiator pinched a wiring harness.
Hello friend how are you?I'm arshad from Bologna italy am a new ammecatronic i want to buy scanner between lunch autel and model my bg is 1200euros.than you
I never used launch...
For that price you can buy a decent Autel scanner though...
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@@LMAutoRepairs thank you very much
Wich model of autel is bater in this bater?
Buy a themal camera
radu soptea They work well as long as the component generates enough heat and is near Line of sight. And most importantly is that the vehicle has not been sitting in the sunlight warming up.
Thank you for giving me a reason to buy a thermal camera
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Helou my name is Alex from Romania i like werry match tour videos end y want work with you com too England,because i like dits job werry well end i want too learn experience with you.Senks werry match.
i have the same civic ex, i removed the HFT bluetooth long time ago (it was draining 0.21) and i still have a 0.29 drain , coming from same F16 fuse ,
how can i find who's draining that 0.29?
go go grab a wiring diagram from Bbb industries (free) . And we can go through how to test it. Any parasitic draw should be tested with a diagram. Fuse box information is often incomplete in an overview. More detailed information is available with a proper diagram.