Car Battery Drains Overnight Or After Days Of No Use! PARASITIC DRAIN
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Car battery drains overnight(dies), or after days of no use, parasitic drain, parasitic draw, engine will not start. How to easily find/locate/identify the source of parasitic battery drain on your late model car, vehicle, SUV, truck, or boat without losing computer or sound system settings/programming. Enjoy!
ATTENTION: The testing methods shown in this video can be performed using either battery terminal(sometimes one end of a car battery can be much harder to get to, or one cable has very limited movement), but it's much safer to use the NEG battery terminal since it's connected to the vehicle's chassis/engine ground.
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ATTENTION: The testing methods shown in this video can be performed using either battery terminal(sometimes one end of a car battery can be much harder to get to, or one cable has very limited movement), but it's much safer to use the NEG battery terminal since it's connected to the vehicle's chassis/engine ground.
electronicsNmore ah you noticed...
How much time is normal for a battery to drain in a parked vehicle
Hello there I bought a Ford Sort Trac and bought a brand new battery but it is still draining. I took it to AZ (you know the Zone) and they tested the battery and Altintor both were in good order. I saw the you said Security system could drain the battery too, where would I find that wiring/fuse (it dose have a Thift light indicator on the dashboard) .? Please get back with me at your earliest convenience thank you 🙏
hello, do you do a product review? We have a product, I can send u a sample
@@SmilingDevil 3rd 3rd 4th 4th
I worked at a car dealership for 15 years (as an aftermarket electronics installer). It always amazed me how many technicians didn't have the slightest clue of how to diagnose a voltage draw.
Before some tech gets heated over this comment, the percentage of ignorance, is about the same among aftermarket electronics installers.
I'm not meaning to be insulting. The point being, never stop learning, I've learned things from people that were just beginning, and I've taught things to 30-year vets. Our ego only serves to limit what we allow ourselves to take in.
Happy wrenching.
Good comment
Personally I get into a wierd mental state which is "I understand enough - why is what I am doing still going wrong" the irritation kicks in and I lose the ability to think clearly.
@@simonmasters3295 I always try and just walk away when that frustration sets in, go talk with another tech about what they're working on for a few minutes or do something completely unrelated. Look at the problem fresh again.
So true. At the nationally famous HamVention I was told by a guy selling all sorts of electronics from a huge booth that if you increase the voltage of an LED then it'll therefore draw more amperage. I said, no it will actually draw less amperage, I've tested dozens of them. We couldn't agree.
At another booth they were selling humongous TV antennas for the home. I asked how many more tv channels these would pick up. He said the same number as before. So I asked, "What's the point in buying this expensive monstrosity?". He was now trapped in a corner and couldn't answer.
FYI, when you install a huge antenna 50 feet high, you'll get to stations from all over the tri-state area! (Unless, of course, there is no "tri-state area", such as Alaska, Hawaii or the middle of Texas.)
Well said..Ego n stubborn attitudes kill learn continuity.😅
Thanks your awesome wish I could pick your brain
thanks so much! easy to follow and it makes sense! Found my issue immediately, after wasting time at the "dealership" shop and with a private garage. Looked to UA-cam and found your video, and voila problem solved.
hey, in the video he says take the negative and throu it to the side but I see that he alegator cliped to a red wire and that is the one he poked the terminal with. Did I observe right? Please read twice.
There you go! You did this vid much better than the older vid!
Thanks for sharing. That post clamp probe clamp jumper wire is a clever technique, too!
Good way to get that dmm connected.First thing to do is use your amp clamp to check what it's drawing saves on meter fuses
How do we account for those cars that don't fully shut down for a a while? I've read that Audi TTs take a while to 'go to sleep'
How can I figure out what is causing it to 'stay awake' and therefore drain the battery overnight?
Wait longer, and leave the hood open(making sure you prevent any hood light from turning on).
Add really high power sleeping pills to the gas tank and drive till it or you go to sleep bet it will go asleep faster than you.
This is probably the cause of my 2002 Toyota Seqoias problem, the battery works for a month or 2 then park it for 2 days and the battery dies. Can’t turn it on.
I disconnected the battery. Still good, but the new battery still flashing on. What the hell?
Beware those TOY battery analysers! Tried to claim on a warranty and they brought out their $1400 battery analyser and it said battery was good, even though we had tested parasitic draw at a normal 38ma. We took the battery back home, put it UNCONNECTED on the wooden shelf in the garage and it went from 100% down to 20% charge in 4 days! Those analysers often cannot see the chemistry that is internally draining the battery over time!
5 bucks for a dmm is a wild statement....
I had tried that test and it still read 0.00. What am I doing wrong?!
I have a feeling you don't have the DMM set up properly.
@@electronicsNmore I had switched the jack to the other position and moved the dial to 10 after checking the battery and that’s what I got for a reading.
I use a infrared thermometer to check for the hotest fuse in fuse box to locate the short I the circuit..sometimes you can trace the heat on the wires to the voltage drain
While the vehicle is off correct?
Darn we think alike makes sense we are looking for a hotter fuse then any of the others
That is a great idea! Thank you so much for posting it.
I was thinking of buying one anyway. Got a recommendation? Thanks.
Great video that'll help a lot of people! Thank you for the video and always a thumbs up!
I hope it does. Thank you very much for watching!
HEY I KNOW YOU Great to see
Ladies and Gentlemen it's Project Farm!
Hey,PF,whatcha doin here??
Project Farms is such a great guy, just the fact he checks out lots of others channels and give his support
the fact that disconnecting the car battery to do can result in an expensive trip to the dealer speaks much about the sad state of affairs in the car industry ......
Really no reason for it, there should be a memory backup system using a capacitor. Thanks for watching!
This video is the best video I’ve ever watched on UA-cam. Perfectly explains each step. Now I feel my life’s nemesis, my wife’s piece of crap 2013 Ford Escape, will lose again.
I tried it on my Tesla and the meter exploded!
Nice. LOL
Teslas are pieces of shit 🤣
😂
Good lol
I tried and my tesla exploded!
Done this during my career working on cars. Very well explained for anyone too fully understand. Imho
Imho, you should have used TO
That is a topnotch complete summary and delivery of testing for a parasitic draw.
Thanks
RADIATOR!!!
yep that one is of the hidden culprits too especially with aluminum radiators because of galvanic corrosion and electrolysis. quick fix is a radiator cap with zinc anode. DAMN lost my beer buzz had to concentrate. worth it though to add to this post
My other video, which involves what you're saying. :-)
ua-cam.com/video/x-gceYx_3RE/v-deo.html
@@electronicsNmore watched and approved i Like, OLE!
Thank you for this video and detailed explanation that even someone like me, 0 experience, could understand!
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful!
m MN
My wife’s V W battery would go dead overnight. Battery was still under warranty so I replaced it. It went dead overnight. To make a long story short, I called the service department and explained to a lady mechanic over the phone what was happening. She asked me if the car had a Clock built-in. I said yes..She said that’s the problem. I think her and hung up. I didn’t believe it until I unplugged the clock and my test made her stop showing a current loss. It was the factory quartz clock that was killing the battery overnight
I have the same problem I drive a Mercedes-Benz E320 every morning I get up it's like my car will not start or it may start no lights won't come on the doors won't unlock the radio won't come on then the next morning I wake up and try to start it up it won't do anything and I do have a built-in clock
We have a 2013 Passat that we can’t figure out why this keeps happening. Every couple of days it’s dead
@konstantintrehagyrevopoulo972
Yea, after you test battery and charging system and those test good, and also this is for when battery dies overnight obviously, you run these tests to find out what the actual problem is. Which clearly was not the battery or charging system
How did you unplug the clock
@mtthw741 2011 Jetta TDI. Same issue. I don't have a built-in clock, though. Already replaced the alternator. Not sure if I need to waste money on a starter or not. Definitely wasting money on new batteries.
Careful of buying a car that has been modified. Mostly kids have zero sense of electrical engineering and make shorts everywhere
Warning, do not do this on a DeLorean with a Mr Fusion unless you have spare fuses for your multimeter.
🤣
@@krystal5887 I knew I should have RTFM...
It will also skew the Flux capacitor.
Good video the only thing I would add is if you don't want to jump in and out of the vehicle to look at the meter what I do is use my booster cables. I connect one clamp to the post on the battery and the other clamp to the ground clamp of the vehicle. This allows me to run the booster cables inside the vehicle then I can clip the leads of my meter between the two booster cables and have it in a spot where I can read it easily without getting in and out of the vehicle or moving too much it's really handy when working on a vehicle like my F-150 that has the fuse box in the passenger side footwell. Again great video with lots of good information thanks for the tips on how to not lose settings
Great idea. Thanks for sharing it, and God bless you!
If you don't own a multimeter, or if like mine it only measures current in the microAmp range, try this. Disconnect your positive lead from the battery. Connect a battery charger that has an Ammeter fitted (most decent ones do). Note the charging current. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery and reconnect the battery charger, note the charging current.. My car had such a large parasitic drain that the two current readings differed by 2 Amperes. 2 Amperes was the parasitic drain.
Thanks for sharing. Good one
How do you guys do this inside the passenger glove box fuses? I am 6'3" and 190bs, I can barely sit in that sport, let alone get my hands in that space and hold the leads close enough together to get an accurate reading!
Thank you for this easy to understand and well explained video, I have a new battery and it's draining if don't drive it every day, won't start.
Did you find a solution?
@@Lobsterman5481 I've been lazy, just disconnect my battery at the weekend 😂😂
@@mickchaganis6607 LOL tell me about it.
I have the same problem. I barely use my car since covid and working from home.
WITH SO MANY USELSEE VIDEOS OUT THERE THESE DAYS,,,,,,,,,,IT'S GREAT TO RUN ACROSS ONE THAT REALLY HELPS . THANKS.
If you tried everything.
If you have a blown roof light that has a button. It might be left on and draining power even tho it's blown out...
I just happened to look up and see the button for mine in the on position and was like... Eureka!
Seems stupid that it drains power as it doesn't even work. Seems stranger that it drains more power in 15 to 30 minutes than charging my phone for a couple hours does.... 🤔
Now we know.
Only two decades later.... I FINALLY found someone who can not only explain it, but 'explain', what and why this is important... KUDOS!
Thanks for the very nice comment! Glad you enjoyed the video. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, use supplied Amazon links to support my channel when making purchases(No added cost to you), and share links to my videos with many others on social networking sites. Thank you, and stay safe!
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So I’m assuming you can’t just look at each fuse to see if it’s burned out and then replace the fuse? Or this different I’m confused lol
Thank you Doug. I use an OBD-ll battery back up port ,has they are supposed to keep the backup memory in the ECM. With all the new crap that are on timers to put them to sleep, it can be a headache to do the tests needed at times. Even opening the door can wake up some circuits. Best way I found was to open the door and fix the switch to fool the car into thinking all the doors are closed and just wait till it goes back to sleep. Liked,Shared. All my best.
I prefer those. The power is directly to the computer, which is perfect when swapping out car batteries. Thanks for watching Bobby!
@@electronicsNmore m:
That coolant overflow doesnt look right
Both my cars have a .05 amp draw after taking video for 6 hrs .... neither car went above .05 amps but yet both batteries are dead around day 7 ...
Both batteries were fully charged, engines cranked over super fast after a full re-charge, but 7 days later, both batteries are flat dead.
Explain that 🤷🏽♂️
You need to trip the hood latch, and clamp any door sensor shut and leave door open if you need to get in car during test, you also need to let any arming system time out so car thinks it is set for the night
He explained these steps in video before this one.
have a 2008 ford escape dont need to trip the hood latch , just the doors.
@@balbutie ford focus has a hood switch
My battery went died once today.... Checked everything and nothing was on and doors were closed... Died again... So I finally get to my destination after work (got a jump start) and I'm looking around scared to shut off the car... And I think you myself what could be on if nothing seems on...
Then I just happen to look up and think we'll that lights blown out and.... The button to the blown out buln in the sunglass holder built into the roof was popped out an on.. No bulb so couldn't tell it was on... Apparently it still draws power even if the bulb is dead.
Now we know.. 🤔
If you gotta power issue and a blown bulb. Check that the buttons pressed into the off position.
And it apparently takes more power than charging a cell phone to cause I can leave my phone in the car for hours and it won't die as it charges. But that blown light was on fire 30 minutes and killed the battery enough to cause a crank and click click no start...
Thank you sir. Used this method and found the drain on my battery- a trailer hitch adapter.
Glad it helped
Great video. Probably be better approach to do this test on the negative post versus the positive post.
Some newer vehicles may run Evap pump during off hours. This will draw some current from the battery but it's totally normal.
Also, the clamp-on current meters are not very accurate at the low end. I wouldn't trust it for measuring very low current. It's best to verify it's readings with a meter connected in series with the battery.
Hello Andrew. The particular clamp meter I used was designed for leaking current testing, so it does work well on the low end. Not every method is 100% reliable, but the one shown in this very is extremely useful. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore I think he was just pointing out that you need to know the behaviour of the vehicle you are working on
@@peteahwanzo1504 Correct, he was referring to the LDP(Leak detection pump) that some newer vehicles have. I'm not aware of any that run with the car parked with the key out of the ignition.
@@electronicsNmore I'm not aware of any of the top of my head either, but that does not mean they do not exist.
@@electronicsNmore A 2017 Lexus GX460 does just that. Startled me the first time. You walk into the garage hours after the car has been parked and the panic sets in .
This works because at 10amp setting which uses a shunt allowing for current flow...Thanks for this simple comprehensive video
parasitic pull.
Heres my problem: I was working on something and was putting the battery cables back on. While putting the negative on my ratchet is a long handle flex head. While wrenching I was looking around and the handle hit the positive post. The battery never acted properly since. Had it tested and I killed 2 cells but it worked for awhile.
Great - do be VERY careful you know that there isn't a large current draw. Using thin leads or shorting them can cause them to get very hot, melt or even vaporise! In the same manner that a fuse works. This aside unusual current draw such as failed alternator diodes etc. is a real pain!
Thanks! I did the parasitic drain test and removed a fuse for A/CON. The meter dropped from 2.79 to .030.
Left the fuse out for the night and the next afternoon car started right up!
Only problem now is I don’t have air conditioning.
What can I do to see what’s causing the ac to drain the battery?
And, eh yo, I just subscribed 🤙☺️
Doesn't make sense. The A/C is connected to a circuit that gets power when the ignition key is in the ON position. Maybe try pulling the wire connector out of the blower motor or blower resistor while the meter is connected to the battery. One may be causing the problem. There's a work-around if you don't feel like spending a lot of money on mechanics. You can connect a standard 4 pin 30A relay to the A/C fuse circuit(between pins 30 & 87). You cut the wire leaving the fuse box after the fuse to connect the relay. Power will only be allowed to flow into the A/C circuit when the ignition key is in the ON position. Power from any 12V source that becomes active when the key is in the ON position goes to pin 86, and pin 85 to ground.
Yeah, I may have the same problem. It's not the ac itself but the AC compressor is drawing a charge while the vehicle is off. (Its hot to the touch when the rest of the engine is cold). I changed the blower motor resistor but that didnt change anything. Did you find out what the problem was for your car?
@@TulsinDerbeck install a on/off switch in the inside
5 Bucks for a Multimeter in USA! Bloody hell we cant even buy the battery for that or even the leads only!
Yes that is bad just replaced the battery in my 2016 ford explorer 180.00
great, what did you set the multi meter on?
Don’t tell people though that cars today have multiple modules and networks and it still takes a long time to find out what’s turning on causing the draw.I have to use an occiliscope to watch what network turns on and what module is waking up for whatever reason.This stuff is not as easy as it looks
This method works just fine on new vehicles, unlike the older method I show in another video.
I was able to find the problem using your video, so thank you for that! However, I bought a new fuse for that socket then retested and the draw on the battery remained. I took out the new fuse and again saw the draw go away. Any tips on why a new fuse didn’t stop the battery draw from happening?
The fuse tells you which component is drawing your battery. It won't fix anything unless it's blown.
The fuse wasnt causing the problem, it only identified which circuit the draw is on. Now you have to figure out what component on the identified circuit is shorted or drawing inappropriately and how to fix it.
I explain this is better detail in the comment I left a few months ago. If you can find it, I believe it will provide the information you need to answer your question, as well as provide guidance on the steps needed to resolve the drain. You're already more than half way done. =)
My car alarm has been going off at random times for the past month. Looked up what it could be, got battery replaced because that was not holding a charge and it was 8 years old anyway. Problem is still there with brand new battery,
I purchased OBDEleven and scanned the modules, and it came up with fault code 01134 (H2) alarm, implausible signal. Google search suggests possible fault with fuses/wiring/alarm unit. Got a breakdown assitant to have a look and he suggested there is parasitic drain somewhere and that i take it to a car electrician who would need the car for a few hours to go through every electrical fuse etc. He also told me that these VCDS and ODBEleven devices dont really pinpoint the issues, they only point your in the right direction so that you can investigate and diagnose further.
So after watching this video my hunch is that some electrical component is causing parasitic drain. I fully charged my brand new battery (it read 12.7v) and 4 days later the alarm went off. Checked the battery voltage and it was at 11.6v suggesting that something was draining the battery when my car was not in use.
How about this method - take a voltage reading on the battery ..... leave car for 12 hours .... take another reading ..... then the current draw = 12 hour voltage drop * F, where F is a factor that I'd like to know. I'm seeing about a .1 volt drop per day. After 5 days the battery has gone from 12.5 v to 12.0 v.
I have a question 2016 ford explorer just put in a new battery and it started everything works but it still says service charging system and power steering is very hard.
Learning is life long.
Excellent video, great job, thank you for sharing!
Glad you liked the video!
Thanks a lot for your excellent video,
I had this issue since couple of months ago the car couldn't start strongly and when I checked the battery the voltage it was about 11v, my battery is not that old I bought it 2 years ago.
After I watched the video, I checked the battery current when the switch was off and the current was about 3 Amperes, I removed and put back some Relays/fuses and play with wires behind the both fuse boxes suddenly the current goes down to almost 0A then I drive the car for 1hr and the battery Voltage is about 12.5V now and the car is starting with no problem, I don't know what was really happened, hopefully the problem is solved.
Is it normal for the new battery to last about a year if I drive 2 to 3 times a week for about 6/8 miles each time ? It used to last about 3 years when I have to drive everyday BUT for 4 miles a day. Is the battery being charged if I just let the engine runs without driving ? Also, does it prevent the battery from discharging ? Thanks.
Very detailed and very well demonstrated. Thank you for the content.
Best parasitic diagnosis video out there. Especially the jump wire for the memory 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you and share. Thank you
Just taught this to a friend who has been dealing with a drain on their car for a year. Had to disconnect the battery every night. Finally talked with me about it and they wanted to know where I was over a year ago.
Many people don't know these things, some are lucky to have friends that know, or they can visit YT. :-)
I know you made this comment 1 year ago but do you remember what car it was causing the problems?
@@captinhoop I know it was a early 2000s Suburban. Don't recall if he ever figured out where the drain was from.
@@captinhoop It can happen to any car the causes can be alarms, stereo circuits, alternator, really anything in newer vehicles it might take longer to find the root cause.
Very good explaining, if someone can’t follow those instructions, they shouldn’t even Elbe drive a vehicle let alone work on one 👍
Under normal circumstances should a battery go dead if the car is not driven daily? My brother-in-law has a nearly new battery that is already giving problems. He is disabled and only uses his car maybe a few times a month. I think parasitic draw must be the problem, but was wondering if his not driving the car very much could cause it. I am fairly certain there is nothing wrong with the battery which was put on a matter of months ago. The old battery was definitely bad and would not take a charge when we put the new one on it.
Modern vehicles have higher parasitic draw. Using the vehicle only 3 times per month can be an issue. I suggest he buys a small solar battery maintainer and leave it on his dash.
I have a question. does a battery pack need the circuit board, IF on each "charging" each cell is removed and individually charged, to the same compacity. Then allowed to rest. And the position in the pack is rotated for each use?
I have a problem with the 2005 c6 corvette, chevy found a problem with the fuse to the seats. They just took out the fuse. Now, months later, something else is causing a drain.
Has anyone had problems with the factory batteries in Toyota vehicles? I have been through 3 in the first three years on my Toyota RAV 4. They try to upsale you on a longer warranty. I suspect they are all the same battery and they just change the label. (Sears got caught doing this year's ago)
Wow, that's really bad. Did you have tests performed on your vehicle? Wondering if the vehicle is the issue.
After the last battery, Toyota checked it out and the charging system was working, but barely within spec and for $600+ or so they would replace the alternator. They gave me a hassle on the battery warranty and lost my business. Last battery has been going strong for several years, though the diode on alternator did burn out a year or so later.
@P RO I can easily see your point on batteries not lasting as long with the stresses you pointed out, but 'three' failures in as many years is way out of normal. Toyota manufacturing defect, or whoever makes their batteries, is way more likely in my limited experience. But, thanks for your thoughts and I'll check out the video.
Nice video! I worked Toyota service years ago, and just like tires for
many of the models, the OEM batteries were crap per my experience... At
the time Exide was the maker for my region, and although they met the
minimal technical specs, longevity was not their strong suit. Was not
uncommon for the battery to just make it to the 12 month warranty, or
just a bit less.
Vehicles at the time and earlier that were made
in Japan, many times were equipped with Japanese made Panasonic
batteries, that I personally saw last 8+ years and only replaced as
insurance. The difference was truly night and day. Lastly, the quality
again in my experience of Denso/Hitachi/Sumitomo/Aisin/NGK electronic
bits was superior to anything else I worked with, and the ONLY parts I would use as replacements.
@J F Thank you so much for your reply and information! Curious as to when you ceased working Toyota service?
good.
If you have a Ford Hybrid the problem may be the main hybrid battery (not your 12 V battery) If that big battery is defective it will drain the 12V one that starts the engine. This happened with Ford Cmax Hybrids. My wifes new CMax 12V would run down overnight. Many trips to the dealer for months. It got so bad that she was afraid to change any settings. They finally fixed it. Gave no reason what the fix was. I later read that a defective main big battery was the cause.
I get a full 12.67v reading 😮when testing?
Bike alarms are terrible for draining the batt
Yes. I had a bike that would drain down fast. Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my very wide range of videos, and most importantly share.
@@electronicsNmore haha its a deal cos maybe I'm sitting on a ticking time bomb with my 2014
S class 😅
Hello, comrade.
Definately get an amperage clamp reader and/or an old-school battery tester (the kind with an analog meter and a spring load via push-button - (looks like a cheese-grater)).
that engine bay is sooo clean
disconnect negative terminal.. then use volt meter or test light,, if get power to fuse . means there is your drain.. means device to fuse is grounding out ,,causing drain
So this means there is a ground short somewhere. thanks
My Chevy K3500 had that problem. I pulled the clock fuse and it solved the problem. Who needs a clock, anyway?
At least you figured it out. :-)
Bad starter can do it i seen it many times it will start fine but drains batteries. Your car should be at 12 volts while off and 13 ish to 14 running. Throw the dam battery on aload tester there cheap. Id use a load tester over a battery analyzer anyday. Put it under a load is a far better test.
Your dope!🔥
Glad you liked the video!
On the battery, is it the negative or positive cable? Why not mention it?
On the meter, there are multiple ports, but you didn’t clearly specify where both cables are connected. I’ll have to find another video. :(
Just bought a 04 impala SS and it had this problem. I did the multi meter test on it and out of all things, The battery run down relay was causing the parasitic draw. 900 MA draw with the relay in to 30 MA with the relay pulled.
I have a ram 2020 dually and it's being 2 times the batteries got drained in 48 hours, it didn't happen before, but now that winter is here it happened 2 times don't know whats going on because batteries seem ok,
My Chevy Silverado has side terminals and there's no access room because it's right up against the fuse box.
Bro i have draw battery in my car kia amanti 2004 3.5
The draw in millimetre 0.26 what the problem?
Very good video. Is it allso possible to measure on the possible pool to measure parasetic drain with a clamp meter, because my tang can't go between the batterie and the cable?
My challenge is I know what circuit is drawing down my power - it's got the interior lights, and the horn on that circuit - so I've removed the fuse and now my battery doesn't drain, but I also don't have a working horn which is a safety issue. Once I know the circuit what can I do to troubleshoot to find where the problem is? Is something grounding out?
Likely on of your lights is staying on. Check the trunk and hood lights.
if you start pulling fuse can do it on older car but from years 2010 above its not a good idea some fuse if you pull and put back will wake up some dormant conections
Great video! Great content. Great presentation. No added bs like the family dog or something equally stupid that has nothing to do with what the video is about.
Glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful! Be sure to check out my wide range of video playlists and share my channel with others. Thank you
My jeep when my uncle owned it the battery died after just sitting for 3 days
Can you disable an alarm system on a car? I assume that if it had a fuse, then you would have already identified the alarm as the culprit?
My voltmeter is different. Can someone explain where to insert red and black and the position of the switch?
Won't a Clamp-On Ammeter work as well?
Mostly no.
my 02 mustang has a reading of 0.18-0.20 amps. when doing this test. but my battery still dies after a few days of sitting (with full charge before hand.) but was told its ok to be below 0.50. what is my issue?
.05 is not the same as .50! You have a big drain.
@@electronicsNmore my multimeter is set to 10a max and my car reads 0.18. thats a big drain? i saw another video saying below 0.50 is normal
i see what you're saying. i was confusing amps and miliamps. i have 0.18amps when it should be below 0.05 miliamps. thanks for your help!
Your link to the DC clamp meter no longer works. Please find a new link and update it. Thanks!
I found the fuse drawing current, it is the one that feeds the Low Current Board which is inside the SJB, guess what, that board is attached to a lot of other components and it gets harder when there is little information regarding that circuitry lol, sometimes you don't get it easy as a fused light or component.
Once you identify the circuit, you do have some work to do.
Very helpful! It seems so obvious, once someone shows you how to do it. :D
Yes! Google and content like this on YT can restore the sanity of beginners and experienced practionners alike!
This method is great... until your car is pulling 15a with nothing on...
A lot of cars have retained assessory power. It will trigger upon putting power to the positive battery cable, let about 5 minutes to pass while connected, the retained power should time out by now and battery drain should drop. I thought sure I had something staying on because there were a few decent sparks when connecting battery, here it was the retained assessory power being on, it lets you use the radio, put windows up and down, it times out after maybe 5 minutes.
So what did you do to fix it?
So everybody who says heeey guys like chris fix do, gonna have a tons of subscribers?
Normally if you have a faulty alternator diode the battery charging warning light on the dash will glow dimly in the dark.
"using a device like you see right here"
The name of the tool would be nice.
Or it good be, the tiny rubber under the brake. Happens in some camry
You’re supposed to wait ~5-15 minutes after the vehicle is locked, doors closed, and/or smart keys out of vehicle for modules to go to sleep for accurate readings
Yes, if you saw a high reading show up, to verify that it's a parasitic drain, you'd check it again after 10-15 minutes.
Who's got 5 to 15 minutes
hi if i take the stereo fuse out witch is causing the problem i know ill have no stereo but will it stop the draw on battery ??
great video btw very helpful and thank you
Anybody knows why this happens on my Honda pilot 05?
Want to see complicated try that on a audi s6 v10 the dam thing has 6 pc,s in it .
Why would i get a 1 far left. Google says reading is too much.