The 'hardest' problem is to figure out how to keep something SIMPLE! Been workin' on Y's since 1969 or so. Still have a few too! '56, Country Squire with a 312., '57 Fairlane with a 312 and a' 57 F-100 with a 272 block that's bored to the 292 standard piston size and a 312 crank with undersized mains. It comes out to +-302. I'm waiting to hear people argue when I state "It's a 302!" 😁 Beautiful solution to the lifter issue when the cam needs to be replaced with the engine in the car! 😍
Very well put together Jim and easy to follow. I like the common sense approach to it and plan on doing a cam change to my Unibody sometime this year. Thank you for posting!
Great video! Thanks! That's a great idea. I changed the cam in my '57 Ford twice using the clothe pin method. It worked good, but I was very nervous about dropping a lifter.
Maybe use the hot glue gun to glue the lifters in the fully open position. Maybe tap and drill the ends of the magnet bar for machine screws to hold the lifter bar at your preferred height. Great video. Edit: Use small tie wraps instead of hose clamps.
maybe i'm missing something but since the engine was out and on an engine stand why not just flip the engine over and let gravity hold the lifters "down/up" while you put the cam in?
If you are just pulling the cam to inspect it, then great. The issue arises when you want to replace the cam with a new one or one that has not been mated to those tappets. You are going to have to drop all those lifters anyway - remove that oil pan.
Neat way to hold the lifters up out of the way to remove the cam, BUT when replacing old cam with new cam you must replace the lifters or the new cam will be ruined. Lifters and cam lobes "wear" together. New cam-new lifters and that is a whole lot of new problems, for the Y block.
Almost like they designed it so if you are to pull the cam you need to pull the engine flip it upside down and do all the bearings and rings at the same time.
New lifters on old cams? OK. Old lifters on new cam? A really good way to "get" to put in new lifters on another new cam while you've got the engine apart trying to figure out how its making metal-flake oil and why the new cam has a "lope" to the idle all of a sudden. Ford used "mushroom" lifters as "cheap insurance" against warranty claims when "tuneups" turned into "teardowns" after "recommended" service, maintenance and driving processes and products were "worked around" the sort of "motorist" and/or "mechanic" to find a way to "work around" something like.....replacing lifters when installing a "new" camshaft.
BS, nothing wrong with Y blocks, problem was they rarely got oil changed enough and NO routine maintenance. this was 1950s oil wasn’t all that great back then and required change every 2000 miles. Also few people was smart enough to work manual choke or adjust thermostatic automatic choke foe winter or summer setting.
I hope you don't put in a new cam using those worn lifters. Actually, you have no idea how the lifters are wearing. Things can go sideways real fast during break in of the cam if there's a wonky lifter. Best rule here: New cam + new lifters is the only way to go. New cam with used lifters is always a crapshoot.
The 'hardest' problem is to figure out how to keep something SIMPLE! Been workin' on Y's since 1969 or so. Still have a few too! '56, Country Squire with a 312., '57 Fairlane with a 312 and a' 57 F-100 with a 272 block that's bored to the 292 standard piston size and a 312 crank with undersized mains. It comes out to +-302. I'm waiting to hear people argue when I state "It's a 302!" 😁 Beautiful solution to the lifter issue when the cam needs to be replaced with the engine in the car! 😍
Great video, smart way to do it.
Very well put together Jim and easy to follow. I like the common sense approach to it and plan on doing a cam change to my Unibody sometime this year. Thank you for posting!
great video Jim , very well put together .
"Honey can we throw out these old magnets and chopsticks?" "ARE YOU KIDDING WHAT ABOUT THE LIFTERS?!?"
Thanks Jim, this is an Awesome idea, very innovative. Pulling my cam out next week and this will be SO helpful.Thanks again!
Love your video, Well done and it will probably help me out a lot with my restoration of my Dads 56 Fairlane.
Great video! Thanks! That's a great idea. I changed the cam in my '57 Ford twice using the clothe pin method. It worked good, but I was very nervous about dropping a lifter.
Genius! Nice job
Nailed it! Thank you!
thank you for this i have a extremley old one of these that is basically just rust this is very helpful
Outstanding video!!!
Thanks for posting .
Maybe use the hot glue gun to glue the lifters in the fully open position. Maybe tap and drill the ends of the magnet bar for machine screws to hold the lifter bar at your preferred height. Great video.
Edit: Use small tie wraps instead of hose clamps.
maybe i'm missing something but since the engine was out and on an engine stand why not just flip the engine over and let gravity hold the lifters "down/up" while you put the cam in?
Thank you!! How long are your magnets?
Always used old wooden clothespins. Swapping out the lifters in frame is another story.
If you are just pulling the cam to inspect it, then great. The issue arises when you want to replace the cam with a new one or one that has not been mated to those tappets. You are going to have to drop all those lifters anyway - remove that oil pan.
Neat way to hold the lifters up out of the way to remove the cam, BUT when replacing old cam with new cam you must replace the lifters or the new cam will be ruined. Lifters and cam lobes "wear" together. New cam-new lifters and that is a whole lot of new problems, for the Y block.
Almost like they designed it so if you are to pull the cam you need to pull the engine flip it upside down and do all the bearings and rings at the same time.
every one of those clicks made me very nervous.
New lifters on old cams? OK.
Old lifters on new cam? A really good way to "get" to put in new lifters on another new cam while you've got the engine apart trying to figure out how its making metal-flake oil and why the new cam has a "lope" to the idle all of a sudden. Ford used "mushroom" lifters as "cheap insurance" against warranty claims when "tuneups" turned into "teardowns" after "recommended" service, maintenance and driving processes and products were "worked around" the sort of "motorist" and/or "mechanic" to find a way to "work around" something like.....replacing lifters when installing a "new" camshaft.
Why so many "air quotes" in every "sentence"?
BS, nothing wrong with Y blocks, problem was they rarely got oil changed enough and NO routine maintenance. this was 1950s oil wasn’t all that great back then and required change every 2000 miles. Also few people was smart enough to work manual choke or adjust thermostatic automatic choke foe winter or summer setting.
@@xJMSports cause “ he” thinks he’s “no it all”
I hope you don't put in a new cam using those worn lifters. Actually, you have no idea how the lifters are wearing. Things can go sideways real fast during break in of the cam if there's a wonky lifter. Best rule here: New cam + new lifters is the only way to go. New cam with used lifters is always a crapshoot.
That's been the method since the day the Y block came out.
Do you happen to know how long of magnets needed?