Neat way to hold the lifters up out of the way to remove the cam, BUT when replacing old cam with new cam you must replace the lifters or the new cam will be ruined. Lifters and cam lobes "wear" together. New cam-new lifters and that is a whole lot of new problems, for the Y block.
If you are just pulling the cam to inspect it, then great. The issue arises when you want to replace the cam with a new one or one that has not been mated to those tappets. You are going to have to drop all those lifters anyway - remove that oil pan.
Maybe use the hot glue gun to glue the lifters in the fully open position. Maybe tap and drill the ends of the magnet bar for machine screws to hold the lifter bar at your preferred height. Great video. Edit: Use small tie wraps instead of hose clamps.
maybe i'm missing something but since the engine was out and on an engine stand why not just flip the engine over and let gravity hold the lifters "down/up" while you put the cam in?
I hope you don't put in a new cam using those worn lifters. Actually, you have no idea how the lifters are wearing. Things can go sideways real fast during break in of the cam if there's a wonky lifter. Best rule here: New cam + new lifters is the only way to go. New cam with used lifters is always a crapshoot.
All my buddys wanted to know why I had 16 cloths pins in my tool box, and as a high school street racer, I had a 520 lift cam and every time I missed a shift , the ole 312 hit 8 grand and there goes another mushroom head broke off. New cam, time because teh stem of the 'shroom ' would grind the shit out of a lobe in a few seconds. I got so good at it I could swap cams in 2 hours on my 57 wagon. no air or ps . I did probably 30 of them untill my kid was born and I did not have the money to by new cams every week. I should have got super heavy valve springs , would have helped a bunch. dumb ass kid. , My buddys also said 'why oh why do you run a why block????? dumb ass kid I guess!!!!!!!!!!!!
The 'hardest' problem is to figure out how to keep something SIMPLE! Been workin' on Y's since 1969 or so. Still have a few too! '56, Country Squire with a 312., '57 Fairlane with a 312 and a' 57 F-100 with a 272 block that's bored to the 292 standard piston size and a 312 crank with undersized mains. It comes out to +-302. I'm waiting to hear people argue when I state "It's a 302!" 😁 Beautiful solution to the lifter issue when the cam needs to be replaced with the engine in the car! 😍
Almost like they designed it so if you are to pull the cam you need to pull the engine flip it upside down and do all the bearings and rings at the same time.
New lifters on old cams? OK. Old lifters on new cam? A really good way to "get" to put in new lifters on another new cam while you've got the engine apart trying to figure out how its making metal-flake oil and why the new cam has a "lope" to the idle all of a sudden. Ford used "mushroom" lifters as "cheap insurance" against warranty claims when "tuneups" turned into "teardowns" after "recommended" service, maintenance and driving processes and products were "worked around" the sort of "motorist" and/or "mechanic" to find a way to "work around" something like.....replacing lifters when installing a "new" camshaft.
BS, nothing wrong with Y blocks, problem was they rarely got oil changed enough and NO routine maintenance. this was 1950s oil wasn’t all that great back then and required change every 2000 miles. Also few people was smart enough to work manual choke or adjust thermostatic automatic choke foe winter or summer setting.
Very well put together Jim and easy to follow. I like the common sense approach to it and plan on doing a cam change to my Unibody sometime this year. Thank you for posting!
Great video! Thanks! That's a great idea. I changed the cam in my '57 Ford twice using the clothe pin method. It worked good, but I was very nervous about dropping a lifter.
Hey Jim, I just got my first Y block, and was wondering how to put a different cam in without taking the engine out.. I cant wait to try it out !! I'm also looking for a 64 292 four V intake , if anyone has one there not using. knfrtz@yahoo.com
Ken Fritz be careful to not knock the rear cam plug out. I did this over 40 years ago and created a lot of extra work for myself. It's basically a freeze plug
Great video, smart way to do it.
Neat way to hold the lifters up out of the way to remove the cam, BUT when replacing old cam with new cam you must replace the lifters or the new cam will be ruined. Lifters and cam lobes "wear" together. New cam-new lifters and that is a whole lot of new problems, for the Y block.
If you are just pulling the cam to inspect it, then great. The issue arises when you want to replace the cam with a new one or one that has not been mated to those tappets. You are going to have to drop all those lifters anyway - remove that oil pan.
Maybe use the hot glue gun to glue the lifters in the fully open position. Maybe tap and drill the ends of the magnet bar for machine screws to hold the lifter bar at your preferred height. Great video. Edit: Use small tie wraps instead of hose clamps.
maybe i'm missing something but since the engine was out and on an engine stand why not just flip the engine over and let gravity hold the lifters "down/up" while you put the cam in?
Genius! Nice job
Nailed it! Thank you!
I hope you don't put in a new cam using those worn lifters. Actually, you have no idea how the lifters are wearing. Things can go sideways real fast during break in of the cam if there's a wonky lifter. Best rule here: New cam + new lifters is the only way to go. New cam with used lifters is always a crapshoot.
All my buddys wanted to know why I had 16 cloths pins in my tool box, and as a high school street racer, I had a 520 lift cam and every time I missed a shift , the ole 312 hit 8 grand and there goes another mushroom head broke off. New cam, time because teh stem of the 'shroom ' would grind the shit out of a lobe in a few seconds. I got so good at it I could swap cams in 2 hours on my 57 wagon. no air or ps . I did probably 30 of them untill my kid was born and I did not have the money to by new cams every week. I should have got super heavy valve springs , would have helped a bunch. dumb ass kid. , My buddys also said 'why oh why do you run a why block????? dumb ass kid I guess!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!! How long are your magnets?
The 'hardest' problem is to figure out how to keep something SIMPLE! Been workin' on Y's since 1969 or so. Still have a few too! '56, Country Squire with a 312., '57 Fairlane with a 312 and a' 57 F-100 with a 272 block that's bored to the 292 standard piston size and a 312 crank with undersized mains. It comes out to +-302. I'm waiting to hear people argue when I state "It's a 302!" 😁 Beautiful solution to the lifter issue when the cam needs to be replaced with the engine in the car! 😍
"Honey can we throw out these old magnets and chopsticks?" "ARE YOU KIDDING WHAT ABOUT THE LIFTERS?!?"
Almost like they designed it so if you are to pull the cam you need to pull the engine flip it upside down and do all the bearings and rings at the same time.
New lifters on old cams? OK. Old lifters on new cam? A really good way to "get" to put in new lifters on another new cam while you've got the engine apart trying to figure out how its making metal-flake oil and why the new cam has a "lope" to the idle all of a sudden. Ford used "mushroom" lifters as "cheap insurance" against warranty claims when "tuneups" turned into "teardowns" after "recommended" service, maintenance and driving processes and products were "worked around" the sort of "motorist" and/or "mechanic" to find a way to "work around" something like.....replacing lifters when installing a "new" camshaft.
Why so many "air quotes" in every "sentence"?
BS, nothing wrong with Y blocks, problem was they rarely got oil changed enough and NO routine maintenance. this was 1950s oil wasn’t all that great back then and required change every 2000 miles. Also few people was smart enough to work manual choke or adjust thermostatic automatic choke foe winter or summer setting.
@@xJMSports cause “ he” thinks he’s “no it all”
thank you for this i have a extremley old one of these that is basically just rust this is very helpful
every one of those clicks made me very nervous.
Very well put together Jim and easy to follow. I like the common sense approach to it and plan on doing a cam change to my Unibody sometime this year. Thank you for posting!
Love your video, Well done and it will probably help me out a lot with my restoration of my Dads 56 Fairlane.
Always used old wooden clothespins. Swapping out the lifters in frame is another story.
Thanks Jim, this is an Awesome idea, very innovative. Pulling my cam out next week and this will be SO helpful.Thanks again!
Thanks for posting .
Great video! Thanks! That's a great idea. I changed the cam in my '57 Ford twice using the clothe pin method. It worked good, but I was very nervous about dropping a lifter.
Hey Jim, I just got my first Y block, and was wondering how to put a different cam in without taking the engine out.. I cant wait to try it out !! I'm also looking for a 64 292 four V intake , if anyone has one there not using. knfrtz@yahoo.com
Ken Fritz be careful to not knock the rear cam plug out. I did this over 40 years ago and created a lot of extra work for myself. It's basically a freeze plug
Outstanding video!!!
great video Jim , very well put together .
That's been the method since the day the Y block came out.
Do you happen to know how long of magnets needed?