Nice idea and punching a hole in a rocker arm cover was common with the retro fit kits in the late 60’s when some states mandated a PVC system to get a car license renewal. Many today want the installation with a “cleaner” look and use a 62-64 valley cover with the factory parts if they can be found. The original y block systems had the valve in the hose line or screwed into a fitting at the base of the carb or the intake. The system takes the smell out your garage if you are able to fine a oil fill tube breather with a 1/2” tube fitting and have go to to the air cleaner.
I was thinking about putting one in the block off plate that you built, then route a 3/8" hard like up the front of the block to the intake. I did this type of pcv on a 235 chevy. used a freeze plug I drilled out and it worked out very nice. Thanks for the video.
Another option is using your hole saw on the lifter valley cover in the back. Requires pulling the intake manifold and cover. Easy mod. PCV grommet is bought at a parts store........
That's basically they stock way of doing it. Some like sourcing the valley pan that already had a hole from the draft tube because the baffle is in there. If I ever have to place my intake gasket, I'll consider moving it.
My 57 makes quite a bit of smoke when I stop, been thinking about doing this and gonna order parts after watching your video. Have a new Holley on it so I hope it has the port for a pcv line.
A 1961-2 passenger car and a 1961-4 pickup truck y blocks came with PCV systems from the factory at least in California. If you have or can find one of the stock valley pans the installation of the system will be very easy. The valley pan came with a rectangular 3 sided “box” oil deflector and a teapot looking fitting. A retro fit one can be purchased for a Chevrolet that also fits. The PCV valve was an inline unit. A screw in valve, V100 from standard products, is the correct one for the Ford Y-Block engine if you want to screw one into a fitting at the base of your carburetor. An oil fill cap is available from stant with a 1/2” hose fitting which can be fitted to the underside of your air cleaner to make it a factory style closed system using filtered air into the crankcase.
Thanks for sharing the alternate V100 number, I only had the original number. It does look like it crosses with a Chevy valve on Summit's site. Do you have a number for the breather cap? The tube on the valley pan is 1.375, but searches tend to give me every size ever made but that one.
Sorry about that, I forgot to add the grommet number. I believe it was #7209359 on Speedway Motors. I kept the package, I'll update if that's the wrong number. Throw out the foam insert and get better material and make sure there isn't any flashing left inside from the mold process. One of the two in the two pack I got was pretty much completely closed by a big piece of loose flashing.
Suspension bushing corrosion is proof crankcases must be sucked and If oil gathers on the filler cap increase sucking. I don't use PCV valves, restrictive and I don't route vacuum hose under carbs. 3/8 barb fitting rear of valley cover and in air cleaner base inside the element and 3/8 hose near always works well but depends on amount of crankcase pressure and air cleaner element restriction, proper air cleaner shouldn't restrict air anyway. Check clearances before you poke holes. Supercharged engines different problem I solved with a venturi nozzle in and near end of exhaust pipe routed outside to valley cover. Proper shaped nozzle has significant vacuum even at idle. Also had to do that one on my dual quad engine 312. Or you could buy a stupid cost crank case pump. Noticed your intake manifold still has carb heat, I always block those off cause I don't like cooked carbs and don't have a problem nursing a cold engine until it gets warm, none of my engines even have choke plates and I live often cold Seattle. Suggest toss the distributor and intake manifold and use 57 or later parts. For a real happy engine use pertronix, MSD, copper contact distributor cap and electric fan, plug and coil wires can't touch anything including yer fingers even with msd plug wires that will arc under high load. Gotta love a happy yblock.
I certainly agree to check clearances before poking holes. When I was planning the cut in the valve cover, I made sure the baffle wouldn't touch the rocker shaft, siphon oil off it, or be at an angle it would collect in the baffle. The intake on mine is from a 57, that's how the Holley 2150 fits and I do have an electronic ignition. I get carb kits for a 68 Mustang when I need carb parts. It's had a PerTronix when I bought the car, it's been about ten years and never had ignition issues thankfully. That's the original paint on the manifold and I did notice the bare spots from the exhaust crossover. I never had an issue with the heat flapper on the exhaust, but while doing my manifolds recently, I decided to get the blank for the exhaust to avoid potentially burning valves. I'll block off the crossover next time I have my intake off as well as move this mod to the valley pan. But this has been working well for now. As common as heat soak was back then, I actually never had a problem with vapor lock or hard starts in the heat of the Summer. What I thought may be heat soak one year, just turned out to be a dirty idle circuit that cleared up when I cleaned it with guitar strings and reseated the check ball while I was at it. I've seen plenty of people complain their stock Y block had over heating issues, but I have never had issues with mine so I plan to stick with the water pump mounted fan. I like having low power requirements in case the car needs to limp home, though I did put an alternator in recently so it can run at a constant 14v and not just 13v or only when in park or moving. Not sure how many of those people had the original 3 blade design instead of the 4 blade, but I have the 4 blade.
Not up on that carb so assumed early intake. Not sure why several of my yblock pals engines overheat and vapor lock, most are even older and better wrenchers than me and some have electric fans. I noticed they aren't fresh engines so perhaps choked water jackets or timing. I've never had vapor lock even the beaters I pounded on in the late 60s and regardless of weather or use mostly stay at 165 thermostat temp. I did do all I could think of to keep them cool including no inner fender splash aprons, musta done something right. Actual reason I switched all mine including prewars to electric fans was lost a blade at idle on my freshly painted f100, ruined inner fender and hood, that really hurt. If yer radiator pops the aluminum unit from Concours is well built, far cheaper than fixing stock and actually 20% cooler. Recently got one for my ranchero $400. Was warned to avoid chyna radiators. What trans in it? @@mikemcgannvoiceover
I considered that at one point to try a testing phase, but I don’t think I found anything that fit the valley pan filler neck. Still a nice alternative if you can source the pieces though. At least I didn't drill an original cover.
I know Ford used the Y Blocks up until 1964 in trucks in South America. I've seen diagrams adding the PCV valve dated 61-64. It may be possible you've only seen the version that has the breather on the oil valley pan like the Thunderbirds in 1956 but without the draft tube coming down the back of the engine. Those are the only two places I've seen them vented from the factory.
I did the conversion back in November of 2021 and it's still worked great so far. The engine also runs a little nicer with the change in crankcase pressure. I used to have enough blow-by that I'd have a cloud building under the hood at a stop and even a little smokey at my feet in the car. It's actually strange to not smell chemicals anymore, I also haven't developed any new oil leaks or oil consumption. I clocked the position of the grommet also so oil can't pool in there. PCV was a Fram FV184.
I was using K&N 62-1513 up until recently. I just measured the neck to get the size. Breathed well, but it was getting oil mist on my inner fenders I just painted even with the shield. So I'm trying a conventional breather again. PCV was a Fram FV184, still hasn't given me trouble.
I used to get enough smoke out of the draft tube that I had people shouting at me at a stop that they thought my car was overheating. Not the first reaction you want when people see your car. There was the strong smell of the fumes as well. The engine also responded well to the change in crankcase pressure. I also pointed out how the location of the draft tube can saturate your lower control arm bushing in the long run. Still has been running great and with no direct effect on my carburetor settings. I’d rather recirculate the fumes than the alternatives.
I've seen a few engine swap options in place of a Y, but this engine is still too healthy to justify the work just yet. With drum brakes, I don't like going faster than I can stop, so this cruiser engine will do. Some days it stops on a dime...other days not so much. 😄
@@mikemcgannvoiceover the 54 engine particularly bad the 312 or 368 won't start on 6 v the rockers you can run a bypass join the returns together with a tubing if one side oils have a few engines in the yard and a ranchero 59 the oil pumps break. 3 times once on a 260 we had a fleet of these cars wagons tv repair shop the kit on the oil pressure switch will cause rod bearing failures we never did that
![Leo Boykov - Goodtime [Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jJoJnSdW7Os/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice idea and punching a hole in a rocker arm cover was common with the retro fit kits in the late 60’s when some states mandated a PVC system to get a car license renewal.
Many today want the installation with a “cleaner” look and use a 62-64 valley cover with the factory parts if they can be found. The original y block systems had the valve in the hose line or screwed into a fitting at the base of the carb or the intake.
The system takes the smell out your garage if you are able to fine a oil fill tube breather with a 1/2” tube fitting and have go to to the air cleaner.
I was thinking about putting one in the block off plate that you built, then route a 3/8" hard like up the front of the block to the intake. I did this type of pcv on a 235 chevy. used a freeze plug I drilled out and it worked out very nice. Thanks for the video.
I'm glad I could help inspire your project. Just keep in mind what you'll use for a baffle so it doesn't pull too much oil through the line.
@@mikemcgannvoiceover Indeed, It may require a catch can if a guys not careful. And that could fill quickly and be a pita?
Great instructions sir. Thanks very much.
Old school , use power steering return hose . Will not collapse like other fuel hose great y block ,thanks
Another option is using your hole saw on the lifter valley cover in the back. Requires pulling the intake manifold and cover. Easy mod. PCV grommet is bought at a parts store........
That's basically they stock way of doing it. Some like sourcing the valley pan that already had a hole from the draft tube because the baffle is in there. If I ever have to place my intake gasket, I'll consider moving it.
My 57 makes quite a bit of smoke when I stop, been thinking about doing this and gonna order parts after watching your video. Have a new Holley on it so I hope it has the port for a pcv line.
If it doesn't have the port, you can also get a carb spacer with a PCV port on it.
A 1961-2 passenger car and a 1961-4 pickup truck y blocks came with PCV systems from the factory at least in California. If you have or can find one of the stock valley pans the installation of the system will be very easy. The valley pan came with a rectangular 3 sided “box” oil deflector and a teapot looking fitting. A retro fit one can be purchased for a Chevrolet that also fits. The PCV valve was an inline unit. A screw in valve, V100 from standard products, is the correct one for the Ford Y-Block engine if you want to screw one into a fitting at the base of your carburetor. An oil fill cap is available from stant with a 1/2” hose fitting which can be fitted to the underside of your air cleaner to make it a factory style closed system using filtered air into the crankcase.
Thanks for sharing the alternate V100 number, I only had the original number. It does look like it crosses with a Chevy valve on Summit's site. Do you have a number for the breather cap? The tube on the valley pan is 1.375, but searches tend to give me every size ever made but that one.
Thanks for the video. You have a part number for that Moroso grommet?
Sorry about that, I forgot to add the grommet number. I believe it was #7209359 on Speedway Motors. I kept the package, I'll update if that's the wrong number. Throw out the foam insert and get better material and make sure there isn't any flashing left inside from the mold process. One of the two in the two pack I got was pretty much completely closed by a big piece of loose flashing.
@@mikemcgannvoiceover ah! Thanks so much for the reply! Wasn't sure you'd see this after so long!
Suspension bushing corrosion is proof crankcases must be sucked and If oil gathers on the filler cap increase sucking. I don't use PCV valves, restrictive and I don't route vacuum hose under carbs. 3/8 barb fitting rear of valley cover and in air cleaner base inside the element and 3/8 hose near always works well but depends on amount of crankcase pressure and air cleaner element restriction, proper air cleaner shouldn't restrict air anyway. Check clearances before you poke holes.
Supercharged engines different problem I solved with a venturi nozzle in and near end of exhaust pipe routed outside to valley cover. Proper shaped nozzle has significant vacuum even at idle. Also had to do that one on my dual quad engine 312. Or you could buy a stupid cost crank case pump.
Noticed your intake manifold still has carb heat, I always block those off cause I don't like cooked carbs and don't have a problem nursing a cold engine until it gets warm, none of my engines even have choke plates and I live often cold Seattle. Suggest toss the distributor and intake manifold and use 57 or later parts. For a real happy engine use pertronix, MSD, copper contact distributor cap and electric fan, plug and coil wires can't touch anything including yer fingers even with msd plug wires that will arc under high load. Gotta love a happy yblock.
I certainly agree to check clearances before poking holes. When I was planning the cut in the valve cover, I made sure the baffle wouldn't touch the rocker shaft, siphon oil off it, or be at an angle it would collect in the baffle.
The intake on mine is from a 57, that's how the Holley 2150 fits and I do have an electronic ignition. I get carb kits for a 68 Mustang when I need carb parts. It's had a PerTronix when I bought the car, it's been about ten years and never had ignition issues thankfully.
That's the original paint on the manifold and I did notice the bare spots from the exhaust crossover. I never had an issue with the heat flapper on the exhaust, but while doing my manifolds recently, I decided to get the blank for the exhaust to avoid potentially burning valves. I'll block off the crossover next time I have my intake off as well as move this mod to the valley pan. But this has been working well for now. As common as heat soak was back then, I actually never had a problem with vapor lock or hard starts in the heat of the Summer. What I thought may be heat soak one year, just turned out to be a dirty idle circuit that cleared up when I cleaned it with guitar strings and reseated the check ball while I was at it.
I've seen plenty of people complain their stock Y block had over heating issues, but I have never had issues with mine so I plan to stick with the water pump mounted fan. I like having low power requirements in case the car needs to limp home, though I did put an alternator in recently so it can run at a constant 14v and not just 13v or only when in park or moving. Not sure how many of those people had the original 3 blade design instead of the 4 blade, but I have the 4 blade.
Not up on that carb so assumed early intake. Not sure why several of my yblock pals engines overheat and vapor lock, most are even older and better wrenchers than me and some have electric fans. I noticed they aren't fresh engines so perhaps choked water jackets or timing. I've never had vapor lock even the beaters I pounded on in the late 60s and regardless of weather or use mostly stay at 165 thermostat temp. I did do all I could think of to keep them cool including no inner fender splash aprons, musta done something right. Actual reason I switched all mine including prewars to electric fans was lost a blade at idle on my freshly painted f100, ruined inner fender and hood, that really hurt. If yer radiator pops the aluminum unit from Concours is well built, far cheaper than fixing stock and actually 20% cooler. Recently got one for my ranchero $400. Was warned to avoid chyna radiators. What trans in it? @@mikemcgannvoiceover
Find an oil filler cap that has a grommet for a pc valve and you don’t have to drill a hole in your valve cover.
I considered that at one point to try a testing phase, but I don’t think I found anything that fit the valley pan filler neck. Still a nice alternative if you can source the pieces though. At least I didn't drill an original cover.
I have never seen this system on the side of the fuel pump in Brazilian 272/292 engines. do all blocks 272/292 have this system ?
I know Ford used the Y Blocks up until 1964 in trucks in South America. I've seen diagrams adding the PCV valve dated 61-64. It may be possible you've only seen the version that has the breather on the oil valley pan like the Thunderbirds in 1956 but without the draft tube coming down the back of the engine. Those are the only two places I've seen them vented from the factory.
Have you seen an improvement in blow by since installing this PCV? Also, have the part number for the PCV valve you bought?
I did the conversion back in November of 2021 and it's still worked great so far. The engine also runs a little nicer with the change in crankcase pressure.
I used to have enough blow-by that I'd have a cloud building under the hood at a stop and even a little smokey at my feet in the car.
It's actually strange to not smell chemicals anymore, I also haven't developed any new oil leaks or oil consumption.
I clocked the position of the grommet also so oil can't pool in there.
PCV was a Fram FV184.
@@mikemcgannvoiceover that’s great to hear! Thanks!
How did you do the other part with the K&N filter?
Also what is the pcv vale part number?
I was using K&N 62-1513 up until recently. I just measured the neck to get the size. Breathed well, but it was getting oil mist on my inner fenders I just painted even with the shield. So I'm trying a conventional breather again. PCV was a Fram FV184, still hasn't given me trouble.
Can you not run a flexible tubing and run it behind the motor and down with a filter?
Why suck all that blowby crap into the intake?
Thats a greenie smog thing that happened in '63.
I used to get enough smoke out of the draft tube that I had people shouting at me at a stop that they thought my car was overheating. Not the first reaction you want when people see your car. There was the strong smell of the fumes as well. The engine also responded well to the change in crankcase pressure. I also pointed out how the location of the draft tube can saturate your lower control arm bushing in the long run.
Still has been running great and with no direct effect on my carburetor settings. I’d rather recirculate the fumes than the alternatives.
Best conversion get an fe engine unless you have a early bird then you're stucked sucked😵💫
I've seen a few engine swap options in place of a Y, but this engine is still too healthy to justify the work just yet. With drum brakes, I don't like going faster than I can stop, so this cruiser engine will do. Some days it stops on a dime...other days not so much. 😄
@@mikemcgannvoiceover the 54 engine particularly bad the 312 or 368 won't start on 6 v the rockers you can run a bypass join the returns together with a tubing if one side oils have a few engines in the yard and a ranchero 59 the oil pumps break. 3 times once on a 260 we had a fleet of these cars wagons tv repair shop the kit on the oil pressure switch will cause rod bearing failures we never did that
Nice job. Ditch the pvc hose clamps. Unnecessary and obnoxious.