I appreciate this straight to the point, no BS, walkthrough/tutorial. I'm tearing into my FE thanks to a collapsed lifter and might as well do this while I'm in there. Thanks!
@@muttomatic I'm glad you found it helpful!! I have an FE that I need to dig into for a lifter myself... Love these engines, but the lifters don't age well!😅👍
I've had a lot of high mile FE engines and still running a couple of rebuilts (when I can find enough gas) never saw a rocker oil problem(?) FE engines go many miles with near zero oil pressure at hot idle, wouldn't see rocker oil then(?). My engine builder warned me to be very careful clocking the shafts, didn't say anything about altering them. Clocking failure? Best thing for standard FE is long tube headers or high performance exhaust manifolds.
Thanks for watching Dan! I I am not altering the shafts in this video, just cleaning them out.👍 In my experience with FE engines they will get clogged,( or at least partly so) and the oil flow out of the rockers is diminished, therefor exposing the brass bushings to unessecary wear. Although this probably does vary due to how well the engine was serviced/maintained. I will also say that it seems pretty hard to find a well maintained FE in my area. 😅
Reason we don't find well maintained is those tuggers are so durable without maintenance like most old Ford over head valve engines. Recently took a 352 out a 59 bird 167K miles on the odo no sign it was ever taken apart. Mass sludge but still running good. Crank thrust was so worn rods were pushing the pins out of the pistons, common to high mile manual trans. Stock cylinder bores were still in tolerance, engine builder figured it was one of the rare high nickel blocks. Replaced with rebuilt 68 GT 390. @@TheBestDanielBlount
@@danontherun5685 That's awesome! I have a 59 T-bird with a 352 myself! They are awesome cars! Mine has 54k miles and runs like a brand new car. Sadly, the previous owners left it out in a field for 25 years, so the paint is ruined.
I replied about your 59 but may have blown the reply, I think it started with 'now I'm impressed'. Let me know as I have some info you should have, especially that I have a lot of spare squarebird parts including good int/ext brightwork too good to toss and don't need bux. Will watch for your reply. @@TheBestDanielBlount
. Thanks Dan! I LOVE my 59! I used to not like them when I was a kid, but bought this one for cheap mainly because I hated to see it sit and rot. I fell in love almost instantly and it's since become an obsession.😅 I might need some interior trim, mine is intact but the chrome plating is REALLY BAD, I'd also love a set of half decent door panels if I could find them. I need to make a set, but don't have the time right now.
I wish I had made this video years ago... It is Amazing how big of a difference it made on this particular engine. If you have slow oiling on your rocker assembly I recommend giving it a try. Also that Galaxie in your profile pic is AWESOME!
Excellent video man. I'm going to be rebuilding a 390 for my truck over the winter and this is definitely something I will do upon the teardown/cleaning. Thank you for pointing this out. I would never have thought to do that. Keep up the awesome work. 🤘
Hi Daniel. This info implies perfectly to the Ford 2527e 6cyl that I have in my boat here in Sweden. With your excellent tutorial I am well prepared to go ahead and get the job done. Thank you, Sir!
Thank you for the kind words Bjørn! It makes me really happy to know the video was helpful.😀 A boat with a ford six sounds really cool! Over here in the U.S we have mostly V8's and the occasional chevy six cylinder.😞
I like your technique for removing the plugs at the end of the rocker shafts (drilling one plug then using the rod to drive them both out. Nice job with the video. Looks good to me!
If you stick with it your videos already great I instantly pulled my rails off after I watched it 62 Ford Galaxie 500 with a 352 and yeah glad I watched your video before I button it up
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words! I haven't had much time on my hands lately and even less topics to make videos on😅. Good luck with your Galaxie! The 62 was one of my favourites!!!
Great video! I have a '71 Maverick with an inline 200 engine, I'll be lapping the valves and replacing the lifters. I knew something had to be done with the rocker shaft, but I wasn't sure--NOW I KNOW! Thank you!
Never saw a FE with lack of oil up there.usually too much if there is plenty of oil pressure.i installed a threaded plug in the oil passage under the rocker stand with a 1/16 in.hole.
Bore brushes... never be without them. For the rocker shaft, basic grime and early sludge: mineral spirits - brake cleaner evaporates pretty fast and I only reach for it as a finishig rinse after cleaning is decent. If things are truly gunked from heavy coking, starting with some wd-40 or penetrating fluid first [use a bore brush to work it in] - helps loosen things up.
@@flinch622 I 100% agree on the bore brushes, unfortunately, I didn't have any big enough for the video. Fortunately, the nature of these shafts tends to make them fill with sludge rather than harder grease coatings. The sludge is thick enough to impede oil flow, but usually breaks up relatively easily with most solvents.
the 292 ford is well known for starving rocker arm shafts. drilled oil passage to the camshaft, thru cam shaft bushing on thru block to cylinder head, and on to the rocker shaft. Hi engine RPM's can make the bushing turn [ rotate ] some blocking off the oil passage.A kit was sold to remidy that problem by a oil tube was routed to the valve cover special bolt that allowed oil to the starving valve train.
That is really good info! I have a couple 292's sitting here waiting to go into project cars. I have seen them drill and tap the top of the rocker shaft pedestal to install a restrictor to increase oil pressure. I am currently doing some testing of a similar "trick" for FE engines, in, which you insert a holley carburetor jet into the oil passage under the pedestal to increase main pressure. I have used that for a while on this rig, but I am trying to put together a video on the effects of it.
In case you guys are still on the yblock rockers John Mummert has the correction video, simple fix actually. Of the best yblock experts and quite a nice fellow actually. My yblocks were built to spin 5500 running hard for many years no problem and have a lot of pals that run them, no rocker oil problems. Mummert is also dependable parts source and has the best starter motor that also fits 58-64 FE.@@TheBestDanielBlount
There is a groove inside the rocker which channels oil to the oil hole at the bottom of the rocker, this channel through wear can close off, to the oil hole, a Dremel can refresh the channel directing more oil to the hole at the bottom of the rocker.
That is a great tip Gabe! I cleaned the rocker oiling ports, but I did not check them for the wear you mentioned. Fortunately these were in good shape, but they do wear out really easily.
That's fantastic! I LOVE '59 Edsels! I had a '59 Ranger 2dr as my second car. It had a worn-out 360 swapped in and was a total pig, but it was still fun! I wish I still had it.🙁
Thanks Devonte! I did a quick check online and I believe that these same plugs will work for your 462! You can take one out and measure it with calipers if needed. The ones used in the video (Dorman 555-007) will measure .547" Or 17/32" Or 13.7mm I usually get mine from rock Auto and they are found in the engine tab under "rocker shaft end plug" Best of luck with your lincoln! I have always loved those cars!!
I believe that they are the same. I notice Rock Auto lists the same part number (dorman 555007) for both the FE and the 430 MEL. I haven't had the good fortune of owning a MEL yet though.😄
Great video, only wish you would have shined a light at the end of the tube. Just subscribed, looking forward for more “fe” content (i’ve got a 390 my self)
Thanks so Mich for watching! I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video! I had been forced to step away from youtube, but I am glad to say I am back and I will be bringing all sorts of content to the channel in the near future! Enjoy your 390! They are my personal favorite FE, better than a 360, without the crazy price tag of one of the more exotic "flavors".
Thanks for watching Robert! What kind of engine does that forklift use? I used to use an old Clark lift that had a flathead Continental. I suspect this process will apply to almost anything using shaft style rockers, but I myself have only used it on Y blocks and Fe engines.
I'm so glad you found it helpful Cody! It is amazing how much of a difference this makes even if the shafts are just slightly dirty. Best of luck on your project. 👍
This is great! This will help a LOT of people. My advice is if you have upgraded your cam and valve springs to stronger valve springs with higher spring rate and seat pressure, you need to upgrade to aftermarket rocker shaft assemblies. The stock ones do not support the very end of the shaft. The end of the shaft will break off, causing all kinds of other damage, bent pushrods, damaged springs, retainers etc. It could get really ugly if the broken off rocker shaft and rocker arm unkeyed a valve retainer and then a valve drops down into the cylinder. Boom. Out the bottom or side of the block.
I was in the same boat on my truck, I had the engine out and disassembled, but somehow forgot to do this until I had it back together. 😅 On the brightside, this is pretty easy to do with the engine in the truck and the intake on.👍
Hi Dan. Could you do a video about what the "pattern" should look like on the valve stem tip with these rockers? I have seen people pattern a valve stem tip with roller rockers for an FE when they are checking geometry but I haven't seen a video of anyone doing this with the stock rockers. It would be interesting to see the difference (if any).
Thanks Cody! That is a great idea! I will get started on that video. As I recall the desired pattern is located in the center of the valve stem and is roughly one third the thickness of the stem.
Heck yes! Risolene is GREAT! I used it once on an FE that was plauged by lifter noise, and it worked wonders! Sadly it seems to be getting a little harder to come by. The last time I tried to get some, all my local parts stores had stopped carrying it and I had to resort to Amazon.
@@TheBestDanielBlount In a pinch you can throw in a quart of diesel fuel idle it at about 2000 rpm for 15 -20 minutes, drain and put in fresh oil with 200ml of diesel fuel. It'll clean as you drive, you'll feel the difference.
@@TheBestDanielBlount the feeder kits from the sending unit reduces oil pressure bearings fail. I had a fleet of theese I would drill holes in both covers attach the drains
Very interesting. I have cologne v6 2000cc and it have problem: on right head oil is present, but on left head doesnt arrived any oil. Can you help me? I cleaning like you all, but ther are more problem.... Please help!!!!
@@battifortesempre1432 I'm not too familiar with the Cologne v6, but it sounds like one of a couple possible things. Either the Cam bearing is improperly indexed, thereby blocking the oil flow to the left side (this depends on the piling passage layout on the Cologne, and Im not familiar with it. Or more likely: 1) The oil passage is plugged on the left side. 2) One of the plugs in the oil galley on the left hand side is leaking or missing. (Usually these are located under the intake, or between the engine and transmission). I think the tell here is that you have no oil ONLY on the left side, I think this points to a blockage or a leak. I would remove the rocker shaft and find the oil feed coming up through the head ( supposedly the center rocker stand according to google) once I found it, I would spray a cleaning solvent through that port, and see if it flows freely, or if I could detect a blockage of some sort. If that shows nothing, I would check the galley plugs for leakage. Has the engine been rebuilt recently? Only reason I ask is because perhaps a plug was left out, or a cam bearing was improperly indexed?🤔 I hope this was helpful to you, please feel free to stay in touch, I'll be happy to help you more if there is any way I can. Best of luck with your project! I know you will get it figured out !👍
Hi Graydon!Thanks for watching!😀 Most FE's should have more oil coming out than mine. This truck has a restrictor in the oiling passage under the rocker pedestal. This is in a 72 f100 4x4 and it spends a lot of time at high RPM's. The restrictor simply helps it apply more oil pressure at the main bearings and it also helps keep the valve covers from completely filling with oil on longer trips. ( this mod is really only needed if you spend a lot of time at high revs).
Does it go right back on or do i have to adjust something? I have a tick that i thought was a manifold leak, but a older guy i was talking to said it sounded like a plugged lifter and to put in some transmission oil. I put in marvel oil in and two minutes later the motor 360 got quiet but only stayed that way for about six minutes. Before i did that i pulled the valve cover and there was little dents under the cover, but taller valve covers didn't help. Thank you for any advice
The problem you are having does sound like a faulty lifter, (FE engines are unfortunately quite prone to this as they age) my first course of action would be to pull the rocker shaft assembly and check all the pushrods to be sure they are not bent, as this is another possible cause. You can check them by simple laying them on a flat surface and rolling them along it and watching for bends. This would be a great time to clean the shafts like I did in this video. When you re install the shafts/pushrods you want to be sure to slowly and evenly torque the bolts back down to spec, (40-45 ft lbs IRRC) be careful when doing this as you can bend the rocker shaft if you are too aggressive. Most FE engines use hydraulic flat tappets, which means that once you bolt the shaft back on the lifters will "pump up" and basically adjust themselves dynamically. Some FE engines did have mechanical tappets, and need manual adjustment, however these engines are quite rare and were usually just used in HiPo applications. If your rocker arms look like the ones in the video, they require no adjustment, if they have screws over the pushrods, then they will require adjustment. When it comes to lifters, I have tried ALOT of various additives over the years and various FE engines I have Had, and it's really hit or miss in terms of stopping noise. Lifters can be taken out and cleaned, or you can replace them (be sure to use assembly lube on the lifters and cam lobes, and follow the break in procedure for flat tapped lifters) I hope this helped you, and if you need anything else, please feel free to reach out to me here anytime😀 Good luck!👍
I got new rocker arms and my rocker arms are loose and I don’t know what to do because their torqued down to 45 ft pounds. They are tapping and I don’t know what I should do?
Do you mean your arms are loose on the shaft? Or that the arms are loose on the valves when torqued down? If it's the latter, you most likely need longer pushrods. The FE has several different pushrod lengths through the years. My advice is to measure the pushrod with a wide jaw caliper and then try one of the FE's longer versions. Pay special attention to the ends of the new pushrods because most FE engines use a ball on both ends of the rod BUT some of them did use a cup on the rocker end and a ball on the lifter end and you need to be sure not to order the wrong kind. Hope this is helpful.🙂 Best of luck with your project!
Hey Daniel howz it going? Was wondering when you reinstalled the ahaft you didn't have to adjust the valves correct ,since you didn't crank the engine ovet or anything . Just removed & replaced ( just torque to spec as per shop manual) 40 -45 foot lbs. Ready to put her back together valves were adjusted on the rebuild but I m putting a new shaft since we reused the old one... so just wanted to know your input ..thanks bud
When I put them back on I simply tightened mine to spec. My Engine has hydraulic flat tappets and a non adjustable valve train, (as most stock FE engines do) In this setup, your lifters "adjust themselves" to the proper lash by pumping up with oil. If you have a modified FE or one of the rare mechanical flat tappet versions, you would need to adjust the valves. The best thing is to make sure of what setup you currently have.👍 Best of luck with your project friend!😀
@@TheBestDanielBlount sweet even better... guess I was thinking 🤔 for sure . So also was wondering guess then y0u only adjust the valves at or when you rebuild...cuz I remember doing that with my buddy .I guess only at rebuild time then??..again just wondering your input or how u see 👀 it Thanks again .. wanna get her back on her feet again & running like a champ 🏆 😃😁
@@dennisyoung4631 This is always good advice, but ESPECIALLY for an FE. The lifters are prone to failure due to debris as well. However, FE engines are resilient, I've had a few over the years that were run with non detergent motor oils and irregular/non-existent oil changes. They will still run for a long time, they will just make a lot of valve train noise.😅
Knew someone many years ago who had a “mighty three-ninety” in his truck. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to own one - either a Ford, or a 390. I suspect I really missed out.
@@dennisyoung4631 I recommend them, if you come across one that's reasonably priced (hard to do these days). They are fun to drive, especially with a stick shift!! 😄 Parts are kinda pricey though.
@@TheBestDanielBlount afraid that my driving days are more or less over, due to age, ill-health, and poverty - the latter predominating. Still, though - if the chance should present itself, I might try to secure one.
As far as your video, you need to get a microphone or speak up. I couldn't watch it becouse I had to hold my phone to my ear just to hear anything you said. Otherwise I think you made a fine video. One piece of information im noticing alot of people are leaving out. You did mention the notch on one end of the shaft & you as well as alot of other articles I've read do say that the notch always goes down toward the head. Witch is correct. But dous it face the front of the engine or dous it face the back of the engine? It matters! And you need to know that when your assembling your rockers onto the rocker shaft. And you need to know witch side. Becouse on one side the notch goes down ofcourse, & to the front. On the otherside the notch goes down & to the back. If you will notice the oiling holes on the rocker shaft, yes they always go down, but they are offset from center. So depending on witch way you put the notch, to the front or to the back, the oiling holes still down but will either be tilted toward the exhoust side of the rocker shaft or toward the intake side of the rocker shaft?
Thank you for the tips! I am 100% with you on the mic, I tried to fix it in post with no real improvement😅. I the tip about being more descriptive was super helpful also! I didnt even realize how vague I was being until you mentioned it. I will try my best to remedy these on my next video!
Thanks, brother! You are dead on about the gloves too!! I am the worlds worst about not putting them on, I even have a box of them, but I always forget.😅
You're right, I really need to get my safety game up. I am the worlds WORST about forgetting to wear them, and then remembering when my hands are already covered in toxins.😅
It is crazy! It really shows why they are more prone to have some valvetrain problems and noise than their smallblock cousins. Even so, I love these things! The sound of a Ford FE is a sweet song😀.
First video i find that actually walks you thru deep cleaning ine of these, life saver
Thank you for the kind words Frank! It is really nice to hear that this video has helped people!😀
I appreciate this straight to the point, no BS, walkthrough/tutorial. I'm tearing into my FE thanks to a collapsed lifter and might as well do this while I'm in there. Thanks!
@@muttomatic I'm glad you found it helpful!! I have an FE that I need to dig into for a lifter myself... Love these engines, but the lifters don't age well!😅👍
just found your video and its exactly what i was looking for for my 1975 AMC Gremlin with bolt down rockers
That's awesome! I love AMC's and have always wanted a gremlin! Jealous!😃
Just completed my rocker arms for a 1969 FE 390, as per your video. Worked like a charm. Thank you my friend...
I'm glad I could help!😀 Enjoy your 390 brother!💪
I've had a lot of high mile FE engines and still running a couple of rebuilts (when I can find enough gas) never saw a rocker oil problem(?) FE engines go many miles with near zero oil pressure at hot idle, wouldn't see rocker oil then(?). My engine builder warned me to be very careful clocking the shafts, didn't say anything about altering them. Clocking failure? Best thing for standard FE is long tube headers or high performance exhaust manifolds.
Thanks for watching Dan! I I am not altering the shafts in this video, just cleaning them out.👍 In my experience with FE engines they will get clogged,( or at least partly so) and the oil flow out of the rockers is diminished, therefor exposing the brass bushings to unessecary wear. Although this probably does vary due to how well the engine was serviced/maintained. I will also say that it seems pretty hard to find a well maintained FE in my area. 😅
Reason we don't find well maintained is those tuggers are so durable without maintenance like most old Ford over head valve engines. Recently took a 352 out a 59 bird 167K miles on the odo no sign it was ever taken apart. Mass sludge but still running good. Crank thrust was so worn rods were pushing the pins out of the pistons, common to high mile manual trans. Stock cylinder bores were still in tolerance, engine builder figured it was one of the rare high nickel blocks. Replaced with rebuilt 68 GT 390. @@TheBestDanielBlount
@@danontherun5685 That's awesome! I have a 59 T-bird with a 352 myself! They are awesome cars! Mine has 54k miles and runs like a brand new car. Sadly, the previous owners left it out in a field for 25 years, so the paint is ruined.
I replied about your 59 but may have blown the reply, I think it started with 'now I'm impressed'. Let me know as I have some info you should have, especially that I have a lot of spare squarebird parts including good int/ext brightwork too good to toss and don't need bux. Will watch for your reply. @@TheBestDanielBlount
. Thanks Dan! I LOVE my 59! I used to not like them when I was a kid, but bought this one for cheap mainly because I hated to see it sit and rot. I fell in love almost instantly and it's since become an obsession.😅 I might need some interior trim, mine is intact but the chrome plating is REALLY BAD, I'd also love a set of half decent door panels if I could find them. I need to make a set, but don't have the time right now.
Thank you for taking your time to show how you make your rocker arm like new again
@@thomaskingdon1177 Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it helpful! 🙂
I wish this content would have been available when I was working on my project.
I wish I had made this video years ago... It is Amazing how big of a difference it made on this particular engine. If you have slow oiling on your rocker assembly I recommend giving it a try. Also that Galaxie in your profile pic is AWESOME!
Excellent video man. I'm going to be rebuilding a 390 for my truck over the winter and this is definitely something I will do upon the teardown/cleaning. Thank you for pointing this out. I would never have thought to do that. Keep up the awesome work. 🤘
Thank you for watching, for the kind words! It's hard to beat an old for truck with a 390!😀 Best of luck with your rebuild.👍
Hi Daniel. This info implies perfectly to the Ford 2527e 6cyl that I have in my boat here in Sweden. With your excellent tutorial I am well prepared to go ahead and get the job done. Thank you, Sir!
Thank you for the kind words Bjørn! It makes me really happy to know the video was helpful.😀 A boat with a ford six sounds really cool! Over here in the U.S we have mostly V8's and the occasional chevy six cylinder.😞
I like your technique for removing the plugs at the end of the rocker shafts (drilling one plug then using the rod to drive them both out. Nice job with the video. Looks good to me!
Thank you, William! I appreciate your kind words! Being my first video there is definitely room for improvement.😅
If you stick with it your videos already great I instantly pulled my rails off after I watched it 62 Ford Galaxie 500 with a 352 and yeah glad I watched your video before I button it up
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words! I haven't had much time on my hands lately and even less topics to make videos on😅. Good luck with your Galaxie! The 62 was one of my favourites!!!
Great video!
I have a '71 Maverick with an inline 200 engine, I'll be lapping the valves and replacing the lifters. I knew something had to be done with the rocker shaft, but I wasn't sure--NOW I KNOW! Thank you!
I'm glad I could help! Best of luck with your Maverick project! I have to admit I'm a little jealous! I've always wanted an early Mav!😃
Never saw a FE with lack of oil up there.usually too much if there is plenty of oil pressure.i installed a threaded plug in the oil passage under the rocker stand with a 1/16 in.hole.
Bore brushes... never be without them. For the rocker shaft, basic grime and early sludge: mineral spirits - brake cleaner evaporates pretty fast and I only reach for it as a finishig rinse after cleaning is decent. If things are truly gunked from heavy coking, starting with some wd-40 or penetrating fluid first [use a bore brush to work it in] - helps loosen things up.
@@flinch622 I 100% agree on the bore brushes, unfortunately, I didn't have any big enough for the video. Fortunately, the nature of these shafts tends to make them fill with sludge rather than harder grease coatings. The sludge is thick enough to impede oil flow, but usually breaks up relatively easily with most solvents.
Don't short yourself,,,I enjoyed the video/content,,,well done boyo.
Thank you! I really appreciate the kind words!
super video thx i wil do the same for my ford thunderbird from 1963 . the best from holland and stay save all
Glad it helped!😄 I love those 61-63 thunderbirds!! I have a 59 myself. Best wishes on your project!
Great video Dan. I've been dying to do that to my 390. A must do soon.
Thanks Robert! I'm glad you found it helpful!😀 This is one of the first things I tackle on any FE project car, it really does help.👍
the 292 ford is well known for starving rocker arm shafts. drilled oil passage to the camshaft, thru cam shaft bushing on thru block to cylinder head, and on to the rocker shaft. Hi engine RPM's can make the bushing turn [ rotate ] some blocking off the oil passage.A kit was sold to remidy that problem by a oil tube was routed to the valve cover special bolt that allowed oil to the starving valve train.
That is really good info! I have a couple 292's sitting here waiting to go into project cars. I have seen them drill and tap the top of the rocker shaft pedestal to install a restrictor to increase oil pressure. I am currently doing some testing of a similar "trick" for FE engines, in, which you insert a holley carburetor jet into the oil passage under the pedestal to increase main pressure. I have used that for a while on this rig, but I am trying to put together a video on the effects of it.
In case you guys are still on the yblock rockers John Mummert has the correction video, simple fix actually. Of the best yblock experts and quite a nice fellow actually. My yblocks were built to spin 5500 running hard for many years no problem and have a lot of pals that run them, no rocker oil problems. Mummert is also dependable parts source and has the best starter motor that also fits 58-64 FE.@@TheBestDanielBlount
There is a groove inside the rocker which channels oil to the oil hole at the bottom of the rocker, this channel through wear can close off, to the oil hole, a Dremel can refresh the channel directing more oil to the hole at the bottom of the rocker.
That is a great tip Gabe! I cleaned the rocker oiling ports, but I did not check them for the wear you mentioned. Fortunately these were in good shape, but they do wear out really easily.
Nice video. Going to clean the 332 in my '59 Edsel
That's fantastic! I LOVE '59 Edsels! I had a '59 Ranger 2dr as my second car. It had a worn-out 360 swapped in and was a total pig, but it was still fun! I wish I still had it.🙁
Great video! I’m actually doing this for my 66’ continental with a 462 in it. Hopefully those plugs are the same on these logs. Thanks for the help!
Thanks Devonte! I did a quick check online and I believe that these same plugs will work for your 462! You can take one out and measure it with calipers if needed. The ones used in the video (Dorman 555-007) will measure
.547"
Or 17/32"
Or 13.7mm
I usually get mine from rock Auto and they are found in the engine tab under "rocker shaft end plug"
Best of luck with your lincoln! I have always loved those cars!!
@@TheBestDanielBlountwould this be the same plug for a 430 MEL?
I believe that they are the same. I notice Rock Auto lists the same part number (dorman 555007) for both the FE and the 430 MEL. I haven't had the good fortune of owning a MEL yet though.😄
Great video. thanks for making it. (just disassembling my 390 now so this will be useful!)
I'm really glad you found it helpful! Best of luck with your 390!👍
Great video, only wish you would have shined a light at the end of the tube. Just subscribed, looking forward for more “fe” content (i’ve got a 390 my self)
Thanks so Mich for watching! I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video! I had been forced to step away from youtube, but I am glad to say I am back and I will be bringing all sorts of content to the channel in the near future! Enjoy your 390! They are my personal favorite FE, better than a 360, without the crazy price tag of one of the more exotic "flavors".
I rebuilt a Clark forklift and it had the same exact rocker arm set up
Thanks for watching Robert! What kind of engine does that forklift use? I used to use an old Clark lift that had a flathead Continental. I suspect this process will apply to almost anything using shaft style rockers, but I myself have only used it on Y blocks and Fe engines.
Good stuff... I really appreciate the information Sir... Im going to tackle mine soon
Glad you found it helpful! Best of luck with your project!👍
Thank you for this video! I am doing this soon on a stock rebuild. Very helpful on what to do.
I'm so glad you found it helpful Cody! It is amazing how much of a difference this makes even if the shafts are just slightly dirty. Best of luck on your project. 👍
@@TheBestDanielBlount Thanks!
This is great! This will help a LOT of people. My advice is if you have upgraded your cam and valve springs to stronger valve springs with higher spring rate and seat pressure, you need to upgrade to aftermarket rocker shaft assemblies. The stock ones do not support the very end of the shaft. The end of the shaft will break off, causing all kinds of other damage, bent pushrods, damaged springs, retainers etc. It could get really ugly if the broken off rocker shaft and rocker arm unkeyed a valve retainer and then a valve drops down into the cylinder. Boom. Out the bottom or side of the block.
That is very good advice David! I have seen that very thing happen WAY too often!
I wish I had seen this before I did my intake swap last year.
I was in the same boat on my truck, I had the engine out and disassembled, but somehow forgot to do this until I had it back together. 😅 On the brightside, this is pretty easy to do with the engine in the truck and the intake on.👍
You should have used a scotch brite cloth to clean the shaft on the outside
This was awesome! Thank you
Thanks Nathan! I'm really glad you found it helpful!😀
She sounds good
Thanks! This engine is a 390 in a 72 f100 4x4. The engine is mostly stock but she's healthy! 😀
Hi Dan. Could you do a video about what the "pattern" should look like on the valve stem tip with these rockers? I have seen people pattern a valve stem tip with roller rockers for an FE when they are checking geometry but I haven't seen a video of anyone doing this with the stock rockers. It would be interesting to see the difference (if any).
Thanks Cody! That is a great idea! I will get started on that video. As I recall the desired pattern is located in the center of the valve stem and is roughly one third the thickness of the stem.
@@TheBestDanielBlount 👍
Sludge, next to heat, it's the engines worst enemy.
You are 100% correct on that!😀
@@TheBestDanielBlount There are lots of good products to combat sludge, the one I use with excellent results is rislone. Been using it since the 60s.
Heck yes! Risolene is GREAT! I used it once on an FE that was plauged by lifter noise, and it worked wonders! Sadly it seems to be getting a little harder to come by. The last time I tried to get some, all my local parts stores had stopped carrying it and I had to resort to Amazon.
@@TheBestDanielBlount In a pinch you can throw in a quart of diesel fuel idle it at about 2000 rpm for 15 -20 minutes, drain and put in fresh oil with 200ml of diesel fuel. It'll clean as you drive, you'll feel the difference.
That's a great tip, I think I will give that a try ,next time! Thanks! 😄
Great job
Thank you!😀
If you have a y block only one side oils remove the drain tubes run a tube across or get a oiler kit. Its a cambearing problem
Thanks for the info Donald! I've got a couple Yblocks sitting around for future projects, so I will definitely be looking into that.😀👍
@@TheBestDanielBlount the feeder kits from the sending unit reduces oil pressure bearings fail. I had a fleet of theese I would drill holes in both covers attach the drains
@@donalddesnoo5303 That's really cool! I think I remember seeing an old advertisement for those kits before.😀
Very interesting. I have cologne v6 2000cc and it have problem: on right head oil is present, but on left head doesnt arrived any oil. Can you help me? I cleaning like you all, but ther are more problem.... Please help!!!!
@@battifortesempre1432 I'm not too familiar with the Cologne v6, but it sounds like one of a couple possible things. Either the Cam bearing is improperly indexed, thereby blocking the oil flow to the left side (this depends on the piling passage layout on the Cologne, and Im not familiar with it. Or more likely:
1) The oil passage is plugged on the left side.
2) One of the plugs in the oil galley on the left hand side is leaking or missing. (Usually these are located under the intake, or between the engine and transmission).
I think the tell here is that you have no oil ONLY on the left side, I think this points to a blockage or a leak.
I would remove the rocker shaft and find the oil feed coming up through the head ( supposedly the center rocker stand according to google) once I found it, I would spray a cleaning solvent through that port, and see if it flows freely, or if I could detect a blockage of some sort. If that shows nothing, I would check the galley plugs for leakage.
Has the engine been rebuilt recently?
Only reason I ask is because perhaps a plug was left out, or a cam bearing was improperly indexed?🤔
I hope this was helpful to you, please feel free to stay in touch, I'll be happy to help you more if there is any way I can.
Best of luck with your project! I know you will get it figured out !👍
My old 390 had way more oil coming out of the rockers, mabe do to the hi volume oil pump
Hi Graydon!Thanks for watching!😀 Most FE's should have more oil coming out than mine. This truck has a restrictor in the oiling passage under the rocker pedestal. This is in a 72 f100 4x4 and it spends a lot of time at high RPM's. The restrictor simply helps it apply more oil pressure at the main bearings and it also helps keep the valve covers from completely filling with oil on longer trips. ( this mod is really only needed if you spend a lot of time at high revs).
Thanks man. Cool.
Does it go right back on or do i have to adjust something? I have a tick that i thought was a manifold leak, but a older guy i was talking to said it sounded like a plugged lifter and to put in some transmission oil. I put in marvel oil in and two minutes later the motor 360 got quiet but only stayed that way for about six minutes. Before i did that i pulled the valve cover and there was little dents under the cover, but taller valve covers didn't help. Thank you for any advice
The problem you are having does sound like a faulty lifter, (FE engines are unfortunately quite prone to this as they age) my first course of action would be to pull the rocker shaft assembly and check all the pushrods to be sure they are not bent, as this is another possible cause. You can check them by simple laying them on a flat surface and rolling them along it and watching for bends. This would be a great time to clean the shafts like I did in this video. When you re install the shafts/pushrods you want to be sure to slowly and evenly torque the bolts back down to spec, (40-45 ft lbs IRRC) be careful when doing this as you can bend the rocker shaft if you are too aggressive. Most FE engines use hydraulic flat tappets, which means that once you bolt the shaft back on the lifters will "pump up" and basically adjust themselves dynamically. Some FE engines did have mechanical tappets, and need manual adjustment, however these engines are quite rare and were usually just used in HiPo applications. If your rocker arms look like the ones in the video, they require no adjustment, if they have screws over the pushrods, then they will require adjustment. When it comes to lifters, I have tried ALOT of various additives over the years and various FE engines I have Had, and it's really hit or miss in terms of stopping noise. Lifters can be taken out and cleaned, or you can replace them (be sure to use assembly lube on the lifters and cam lobes, and follow the break in procedure for flat tapped lifters) I hope this helped you, and if you need anything else, please feel free to reach out to me here anytime😀 Good luck!👍
You missed a step or two! You should check the rocker arm shaft and pedestals for wear with a micrometer while you're at it!
I got new rocker arms and my rocker arms are loose and I don’t know what to do because their torqued down to 45 ft pounds. They are tapping and I don’t know what I should do?
Do you mean your arms are loose on the shaft? Or that the arms are loose on the valves when torqued down? If it's the latter, you most likely need longer pushrods. The FE has several different pushrod lengths through the years. My advice is to measure the pushrod with a wide jaw caliper and then try one of the FE's longer versions. Pay special attention to the ends of the new pushrods because most FE engines use a ball on both ends of the rod BUT some of them did use a cup on the rocker end and a ball on the lifter end and you need to be sure not to order the wrong kind. Hope this is helpful.🙂 Best of luck with your project!
Hey Daniel howz it going? Was wondering when you reinstalled the ahaft you didn't have to adjust the valves correct ,since you didn't crank the engine ovet or anything . Just removed & replaced ( just torque to spec as per shop manual) 40 -45 foot lbs. Ready to put her back together valves were adjusted on the rebuild but I m putting a new shaft since we reused the old one... so just wanted to know your input ..thanks bud
When I put them back on I simply tightened mine to spec. My Engine has hydraulic flat tappets and a non adjustable valve train, (as most stock FE engines do) In this setup, your lifters "adjust themselves" to the proper lash by pumping up with oil. If you have a modified FE or one of the rare mechanical flat tappet versions, you would need to adjust the valves. The best thing is to make sure of what setup you currently have.👍 Best of luck with your project friend!😀
@@TheBestDanielBlount sweet even better... guess I was thinking 🤔 for sure . So also was wondering guess then y0u only adjust the valves at or when you rebuild...cuz I remember doing that with my buddy .I guess only at rebuild time then??..again just wondering your input or how u see 👀 it
Thanks again .. wanna get her back on her feet again & running like a champ 🏆 😃😁
Sounds like the FE engine wants regular oil changes and dosing with M.M.O. to keep the oil passages clean and crud-free…
@@dennisyoung4631 This is always good advice, but ESPECIALLY for an FE. The lifters are prone to failure due to debris as well. However, FE engines are resilient, I've had a few over the years that were run with non detergent motor oils and irregular/non-existent oil changes. They will still run for a long time, they will just make a lot of valve train noise.😅
Knew someone many years ago who had a “mighty three-ninety” in his truck. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to own one - either a Ford, or a 390.
I suspect I really missed out.
@@dennisyoung4631 I recommend them, if you come across one that's reasonably priced (hard to do these days). They are fun to drive, especially with a stick shift!! 😄 Parts are kinda pricey though.
@@TheBestDanielBlount afraid that my driving days are more or less over, due to age, ill-health, and poverty - the latter predominating.
Still, though - if the chance should present itself, I might try to secure one.
@@dennisyoung4631 I'm sorry to hear that Dennis! I know what you mean about poverty though! Everything car related costs a fortune now it seems.😐
youd think ford wouldve learned their lesson.but they did the exact same thing on the cologne v6 ohv engines.
I truly love Ford products, but one thing they were never great at was learning from their mistakes.😂
As far as your video, you need to get a microphone or speak up. I couldn't watch it becouse I had to hold my phone to my ear just to hear anything you said. Otherwise I think you made a fine video. One piece of information im noticing alot of people are leaving out. You did mention the notch on one end of the shaft & you as well as alot of other articles I've read do say that the notch always goes down toward the head. Witch is correct. But dous it face the front of the engine or dous it face the back of the engine? It matters! And you need to know that when your assembling your rockers onto the rocker shaft. And you need to know witch side. Becouse on one side the notch goes down ofcourse, & to the front. On the otherside the notch goes down & to the back. If you will notice the oiling holes on the rocker shaft, yes they always go down, but they are offset from center. So depending on witch way you put the notch, to the front or to the back, the oiling holes still down but will either be tilted toward the exhoust side of the rocker shaft or toward the intake side of the rocker shaft?
Thank you for the tips! I am 100% with you on the mic, I tried to fix it in post with no real improvement😅. I the tip about being more descriptive was super helpful also! I didnt even realize how vague I was being until you mentioned it. I will try my best to remedy these on my next video!
Christmas is coming, we’re going to buy you a solvent tank/washer from Harbor freight
I know right?! I drool over them every time I walk in the store, but I'm a self proclaimed cheapskate and I can never make myself pull the trigger.😂
@@TheBestDanielBlount treat yourself my man…you deserve it!!
But some nitrile gloves too…protect hands, oil and solvent way bad over time
Thanks, brother! You are dead on about the gloves too!! I am the worlds worst about not putting them on, I even have a box of them, but I always forget.😅
MAN she sounds sweet.
Thanks! I love this thing! It's a really good truck, except for the enormous amount of rust.😅
Gloves
You're right, I really need to get my safety game up. I am the worlds WORST about forgetting to wear them, and then remembering when my hands are already covered in toxins.😅
yikes! look how much the rails actually move when the engine is running!
It is crazy! It really shows why they are more prone to have some valvetrain problems and noise than their smallblock cousins. Even so, I love these things! The sound of a Ford FE is a sweet song😀.