Thanks for all these videos! So many are labeled as "step by step" and when you start watching they are already holding a part in their hand and dont tell how they took it off or ? This truly is step by step and the informational vid on how to know which type of brake you have, priceless! Thanks.
Excellent. The caliper alignment and spacer explanation helped me pick up an assembly flaw that was missed before my bike was shipped and during a tune-up at my local LBS.
A clear, concise and to-the-point explanation. Covered exactly the issue I was having. I like knowing the names of all the bits and bobs, too. Thank you!
Fantastic video, so clear and concise. I've learnt so much from this, and can now confidently sort out my brakes. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this video.
Thanks for the instructions, I am just an average casual rider and do a lot of my own maintenance just to build confidence. My LBS can always bail me out, but I need to know how to fix breakdowns on the road, so I really appreciate all the Park tools , books and online help over 4 decades. Thanks
7:54 thanks for this one, and the entire video, I nedd to learn the most of bikes because my friends do not know nothing and every time we go out is a small tecnical problem.
Good video. Lowering the straddle cable carrier increases braking power. Lower it enough and they almost feel like disc brakes! But as the video points a low height may give trouble with debris clearance. Also, a low carrier position gives less brake arm travel so you must set the pads very close to the rim to start with. Personally I like a somewhat lower position to give a strong brake feel. And I love that choosing the straddle cable carrier height gives you the option to set the braking power to what you want. Not all brake systems let you choose the amount of leverage.
Great video,plain and simple information.I have been riding a bike a lot of years and to be honest i never knew some of the things you showed here,thank you .
Whoever designed cantilever brakes w/ straddle cable carriers really just took the shortcut route. It's beyond terrible. Cantilever brakes in general tbh.
WOW! 😱. Who knew that there is so many types of caliper brake types. Thank you Calvin, when you pass, they should preserve your grey matter as the "Einstein of bicycles". 🤯🤯🤯
I find if I can open my quick release then the break is very poor in strength. I also found that no matter what set of spacers I used I could not get the pads parallel with the rim... I'm told they should be very powerful brakes... I'm I yet to discover the secret to getting them to work the best they can? I use the tektro cantis shown in the video at 2:35 with the very Long lever arms.
I am currently repairing the front brake of my girlfriend's bicycle. It has the same type as seen at 07:19. The cable snapped due to an accident. I changed it, cleaned everything but the damn circular thing (where the main cable goes through) keeps slipping to one side. I was like wtf is this?! Now I see that when the cable snapped the small hose that keeps things in place has fallen off. All I need to do is find a replacement! Thank you!
I have a question about the Straddle cable carrier position. It is right in front of the eyelet at the centre of the fork where the two fork blades meet. That means no front bike rack can be placed, as 99% of front racks use that eyelet. Can the carrier be moved up whilst retaining adequate brake function, or is it better to completely change the v brake so the cable approaches from the left or right of the Centreline?
You can convert these to linear pull/ V brakes if you use short arms to correct the throw difference. There are only a rare few bikes/forks out there that would allow you to mount a side pull brake if it has canti's.
Question for you..... on my Cannondale Adventure bike, the front wheel/rim has a groove all around the circumference where the pad rides. The back rim doesn't. It appears to be built that way and isn't from damage. I'm guessing you are more familiar with bikes than me so I'm curious if you know if this is normal? I think it's called a Maddux 700c rim. I emailed the store I got it from but have no response yet. Thanks for your time.
Normally rim match, but not always. There are rims made with a "wear groove". As you ride and brake, the rim wears away and get thinner. Once that groove disappears, the rim is thinner at the sidewalls and should be replaced.
@@parktool ahh great info. It does say that the rim is subject to wear on a sticker on the rim. I appreciate your help. My local Cannondale dealer is really available... when you want to buy a bike... not so much when you have questions! Best Regards, Bruce
At 4-35 haven't you got the concave and convex washer the wrong way round.Seems like the convex washer needs to contact the brake arm on both sides.Please clarify.
There are two sets of these spacers, one on each side of the caliper arm. The convex side must face the concave side. The back side of each is flat, and identical in diameter and every other way. The nut face and arm faces are flat, and need to contact the flat side of the spacer.
@@parktool Excellent video with a structured approach to setting up the brakes - but I have the same query. The Shimano leaflet for the Multi Condition Brake System shows the flat faces of both convex washers fitted against each side of the brake caliper arm to form a 'ball joint' allowing the brake block to rotate about the middle of the caliper arm.Are both approaches effective?
I have built up a new bike and I have an issue, I heard rattling on my first ride and I pinned it down to the caliper wiggling on the bosses, it also doesn't go all the way on, the pin is halfway in the hole, any ideas?
It is common to have some play between the caliper and the boss. Try removing them, greasing the bosses, and reinstalling. Make sure springs are fully engaged.
@@parktool The problem is the shoulder on the boss is longer than the bushing on the inside of the caliper, so it doesn't seat all the way, on the shimano cx50's, I'm not alone I've read other reviews who have experienced the same with these calipers
Very usefull video ! Thank you ! Can you please tell me how to mount the part where the cable housing stops at the front brake on ergo levers ? In fact i don't even know how it looks. It doesn't show in your video. It would be of great help. I have a v-brake on my front with ergo levers and it has no stopping power.
The "ergo lever" from Campagnolo is not designed for most linear pull brakes. If your brake calipers require a "long travel" lever, then the system is incompatible. See if this video helps get the housing to your brake: ua-cam.com/video/oL82JM7H2Bw/v-deo.html -Calvin
@@parktool watched video many times. Right side pad sits much closer to rim than left. Delimit screws didn’t help. Played with right side cable cinch screw but can’t balance two sides. Real life seems different from video. Did lube posts and lock tight mounting screws. Thanks in advance
@@meyers6622 Depending on the brake the set screw that you are adjusting is pushing directly against the tab of the spring. If the spring "walks off" the tab, adjsuting the screw will have no effect. Try fully loosening the screw and starting over feeling for the tab walking off.
@@parktool Thanks. If “set screw” refers to the small fine adjustment then that’s not my problem. I’m thinking problem may have to do with the cable at the STI shifter. That’s a guess. I can’t get the arms to center when cable is attached so pad is always rubbing on right side looking down. Cane Creek SCK-5.
Excellent tutorial, however, the quality of the calipers I use is not quite comparable. Adjustments that look simple here can be a nightmare when you are using cheap parts!
Starting to fix an old, rusty bike for my son to take to college. My first attempt at any bike repair...These videos are priceless!
hopefully some frat bro won't have stolen it in like the first week...
Rd1rr rtn9th 6
Cf¾
Best cantilever tutorial I've found, by far. Thanks for the help!
They have the best how too...
Thank you for posting this - I always learn so much from your clear step by step videos!
Thanks for all these videos! So many are labeled as "step by step" and when you start watching they are already holding a part in their hand and dont tell how they took it off or ? This truly is step by step and the informational vid on how to know which type of brake you have, priceless! Thanks.
8:50 Best explanation of barrel adjusters on the internet!
In this 15 min. I did learn more about brakes than in my whole life!
Thank you VERY MUCH! Changed my entire brake system using this video series, every step is very well explained.
Excellent. The caliper alignment and spacer explanation helped me pick up an assembly flaw that was missed before my bike was shipped and during a tune-up at my local LBS.
Great video! Thumbs up. Just bought a Park Tools 13mm cone wrench to do my Schwinn front bearing adjustment.
A clear, concise and to-the-point explanation. Covered exactly the issue I was having. I like knowing the names of all the bits and bobs, too. Thank you!
This channel is a treasure
TYPICAL OF A PROFESSIONAL, GREAT CHANNEL ,CONTINUES TO SUPPORT US, THANKS!
Fantastic video, so clear and concise. I've learnt so much from this, and can now confidently sort out my brakes. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this video.
Thank you, this really helps to repair my 25 years old bike 👍
In addition to the crystal clear instruction, your production values are outstanding. Easily subscribed
Excellent video. I've been struggling with my cantis for years. Now I'm ready to try adjusting them again.
Thanks for the instructions, I am just an average casual rider and do a lot of my own maintenance just to build confidence. My LBS can always bail me out, but I need to know how to fix breakdowns on the road, so I really appreciate all the Park tools , books and online help over 4 decades. Thanks
Thanks
Where can I buy that pinch tool used in the video?
Superb video! Everything is clear and concise. Thank you very much.
Very good video and clear step by step guidance...... Thank you sir!
7:54 thanks for this one, and the entire video,
I nedd to learn the most of bikes because my friends do not know
nothing and every time we go out is a small tecnical problem.
Good video. Lowering the straddle cable carrier increases braking power. Lower it enough and they almost feel like disc brakes! But as the video points a low height may give trouble with debris clearance. Also, a low carrier position gives less brake arm travel so you must set the pads very close to the rim to start with. Personally I like a somewhat lower position to give a strong brake feel. And I love that choosing the straddle cable carrier height gives you the option to set the braking power to what you want. Not all brake systems let you choose the amount of leverage.
does lowering the straddle carrier increase brake power…or does heightening it?
outstanding video. Thank you very much. - and I enjoy using many of your tools, especially the bike holder. It makes fixing the bike so much easier.
Great series of videos and exactly what I was looking for!!!! Thank you very much!
Thank you . Very happy from Camira Queensland. Australia
.
Immensely helpful video, thanks!
Fantastic tutorial!
There's ONE canti video. This is it.
great channel and a great mechanic. really comprehensive how to material, thanks a lot !
Great video,plain and simple information.I have been riding a bike a lot of years and to be honest i never knew some of the things you showed here,thank you .
superb procedure thanks
Меня всегда бесили такие тормоза, потому что я не мог их нормально налаживать. Теперь у меня уверенности побольше! Спасибо!
Great video. Helpful tips. Thank you.
Very useful and clear. Thankyou!
I love these videos.
Great I enjoy these a lot! (Dr. Bike PVR)
Shims! In place of rubber bands, rubber o-ring seals may be easier to work with, assuming that their thickness is of appropriate dimensions.
this is one of the most frustrating things i have ever done
Whoever designed cantilever brakes w/ straddle cable carriers really just took the shortcut route. It's beyond terrible. Cantilever brakes in general tbh.
WOW! 😱. Who knew that there is so many types of caliper brake types.
Thank you Calvin, when you pass, they should preserve your grey matter as the "Einstein of bicycles". 🤯🤯🤯
I find if I can open my quick release then the break is very poor in strength. I also found that no matter what set of spacers I used I could not get the pads parallel with the rim... I'm told they should be very powerful brakes... I'm I yet to discover the secret to getting them to work the best they can?
I use the tektro cantis shown in the video at 2:35 with the very Long lever arms.
What do you think about pulley straddle cable carriers ?
Where can I buy the park tools PT-RB1 rubber band? Shouldn’t it be blue?
I am currently repairing the front brake of my girlfriend's bicycle. It has the same type as seen at 07:19. The cable snapped due to an accident. I changed it, cleaned everything but the damn circular thing (where the main cable goes through) keeps slipping to one side. I was like wtf is this?! Now I see that when the cable snapped the small hose that keeps things in place has fallen off. All I need to do is find a replacement! Thank you!
I have a question about the Straddle cable carrier position. It is right in front of the eyelet at the centre of the fork where the two fork blades meet. That means no front bike rack can be placed, as 99% of front racks use that eyelet.
Can the carrier be moved up whilst retaining adequate brake function, or is it better to completely change the v brake so the cable approaches from the left or right of the Centreline?
Quick question, I know this is probably a silly to ask but can you convert this into a side pull brake setup?
You can convert these to linear pull/ V brakes if you use short arms to correct the throw difference. There are only a rare few bikes/forks out there that would allow you to mount a side pull brake if it has canti's.
Is there supposed to be any play back and forth? Because when I tighten
My bolts both sides have play
It is normal the arms will have some play when the bolt is secured. They should move freely as the pivot to the rim.
Question for you..... on my Cannondale Adventure bike, the front wheel/rim has a groove all around the circumference where the pad rides. The back rim doesn't. It appears to be built that way and isn't from damage.
I'm guessing you are more familiar with bikes than me so I'm curious if you know if this is normal?
I think it's called a Maddux 700c rim.
I emailed the store I got it from but have no response yet.
Thanks for your time.
Normally rim match, but not always. There are rims made with a "wear groove". As you ride and brake, the rim wears away and get thinner. Once that groove disappears, the rim is thinner at the sidewalls and should be replaced.
@@parktool ahh great info. It does say that the rim is subject to wear on a sticker on the rim.
I appreciate your help. My local Cannondale dealer is really available... when you want to buy a bike... not so much when you have questions!
Best Regards,
Bruce
At 4-35 haven't you got the concave and convex washer the wrong way round.Seems like the convex washer needs to contact the brake arm on both sides.Please clarify.
There are two sets of these spacers, one on each side of the caliper arm. The convex side must face the concave side. The back side of each is flat, and identical in diameter and every other way. The nut face and arm faces are flat, and need to contact the flat side of the spacer.
@@parktool Excellent video with a structured approach to setting up the brakes - but I have the same query. The Shimano leaflet for the Multi Condition Brake System shows the flat faces of both convex washers fitted against each side of the brake caliper arm to form a 'ball joint' allowing the brake block to rotate about the middle of the caliper arm.Are both approaches effective?
What type of brake pads do you get for this the v brakes?
I have built up a new bike and I have an issue, I heard rattling on my first ride and I pinned it down to the caliper wiggling on the bosses, it also doesn't go all the way on, the pin is halfway in the hole, any ideas?
It is common to have some play between the caliper and the boss. Try removing them, greasing the bosses, and reinstalling. Make sure springs are fully engaged.
@@parktool The problem is the shoulder on the boss is longer than the bushing on the inside of the caliper, so it doesn't seat all the way, on the shimano cx50's, I'm not alone I've read other reviews who have experienced the same with these calipers
Very usefull video ! Thank you ! Can you please tell me how to mount the part where the cable housing stops at the front brake on ergo levers ? In fact i don't even know how it looks. It doesn't show in your video. It would be of great help. I have a v-brake on my front with ergo levers and it has no stopping power.
The "ergo lever" from Campagnolo is not designed for most linear pull brakes. If your brake calipers require a "long travel" lever, then the system is incompatible. See if this video helps get the housing to your brake:
ua-cam.com/video/oL82JM7H2Bw/v-deo.html
-Calvin
When one side of the canti levers squeezes the rim more than the other what should I do?
Check this section of the video out. ua-cam.com/video/FvFira2dAPY/v-deo.html Let us know if there is something limiting you from accomplishing this.
@@parktool watched video many times. Right side pad sits much closer to rim than left. Delimit screws didn’t help. Played with right side cable cinch screw but can’t balance two sides. Real life seems different from video. Did lube posts and lock tight mounting screws. Thanks in advance
@@meyers6622 Depending on the brake the set screw that you are adjusting is pushing directly against the tab of the spring. If the spring "walks off" the tab, adjsuting the screw will have no effect. Try fully loosening the screw and starting over feeling for the tab walking off.
@@parktool Thanks. If “set screw” refers to the small fine adjustment then that’s not my problem. I’m thinking problem may have to do with the cable at the STI shifter. That’s a guess. I can’t get the arms to center when cable is attached so pad is always rubbing on right side looking down. Cane Creek SCK-5.
@@parktool I didn’t fully understand your suggestion. You were correct about resetting set screw.
So mine has pins but there’s a bolt near them to prevent them from going into the post, why?
did you have back brake in bmx
how do i convert my brakes from cantilever to v brakes please help me :)
There is a Park tools video on that topic. Just You Tube search for it.
Excellent tutorial, however, the quality of the calipers I use is not quite comparable. Adjustments that look simple here can be a nightmare when you are using cheap parts!
thread locker so as not to unscrew it later
🥰
It's so difficult to stop squealing with cantilever brakes, even when I toe it in. They really are a nightmare to adjust properly.
Any advice Park Tool folks?