As a first-time restorer of a 1974 Raleigh International, I found this video very helpful. The last suggestion in the video, to use brake pads with "independent toe settings" helped me decide to replace the rectangular blocks with newer adjustable pads. The old rectangular pads with new rubber simply did not contact the rim squarely, so I was only getting about 25% contact with the rim. The alternative, bending the brake arms to make the pads fit, would have involved more trial and error adjusting than I wanted to put the old brake arms through. And I'm going to have two different wheelsets for this bike. The newer pads automatically align themselves with the rim when I put them on finger tight and squeeze the brake lever.
Thanks so much for covering maintenance of the old school classic bikes! Our shop still sees a lot of these older bikes so I'll make sure our new mechanics watch this.
Thanks for posting this most clear and precise video. I recently upgraded my beautiful old Raleigh Record Ace 1981. On the list was the brakes. Originally mounted with Weinnman 605's (very poor braking), they were switched to the great Mafac Competition Gold centre pulls. A whole new world opened to me. Mounted the Kool Stop pads, and now I can ride safely in Paris, France, because it's one of the most dangerous cities in Europe. You do more braking than pedaling ! You have clearly explained the principle of "toeing" the pads, and now I understand much better. Thanks a million. All the best.
I just added a center pull front brake to a new city bike that only came with a rear coaster brake. I had thought that the barrel adjuster was always near the brake lever, but your video clearly shows that for center pull brakes it’s at the cable hanger. That adjustment made all the difference in reducing the amount of travel in the brake lever and getting proper feel on the brake. Thanks so much!
Amazing video thanks a lot! I had a har time figuring this out before as not that many info is now available. One last question is were the two bolts on the side of the break the ones that have a red colour circle underneath doing I tried adjusting them but I’m not sure what they do.
Ok, so that’s how it’s done. I never knew that swapping bars would make me redo cabling, brakes, etc. Definitely interesting experience, but whoever at roadmaster decided to put one of these on the front and a cantilever at rear deserves to be fired. Definitely new to this, may honestly take to the shop and pay them the 30 just to get it done right lol. Just want to ride my bike
It looks way more difficult than it is. I was having a hard time today trying to adjust my brakes since my back brakes aren't working correctly. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to understand it better. .
What if you have a cable thats frayed at the end and youre trying to fit it into the hole on the brake tension bolt. Do you have to have a new perfect cable or is there a way around this? Thanks
I just got a 27" from 1979, and while I managed to get the center pull brakes to work properly, I'd like to upgrade to a dual pivot caliper. Is that possible? Are there any cautions that should be taken with this repair? Thanks.
Yes this is possible. You will by-pass the housing stop of the fork and rear seat stays, and these can be removed. You need to measure from the mounting hole to the rim, and match this to the reach of dual pivot you purchase.
Indeed! We discontinued that tool about 15 years ago - it’s not so applicable to modern bikes, and the demand for it eventually tapered off. You can still find them used here and there, or use the technique we show in this video.
Great video, thank you! What is the tool being used at 03:21 (ua-cam.com/video/iJeYSKUI-6A/v-deo.html). I have seen the 3-way wrenches before, but not with a socket type end (if that's called a socket?)
I may be swappomg my old 27 inch wheels for a 700c set and may need to replace my centerpull calipers for long reach. Would you recommend staying with centerpull or maybe switching to a side pull design? The CP calipers were considered superior back in the '70s for even pad pressure as I recall. What would you suggest?
There is nothing superior about the design of the center pull. The center pull does give the bike a retro-look, however, it requires more work in cabling as it need a housing stop on the fork. Either way be sure you get a long enough reach when converting. -Calvin
ParkTool, please help me. I want to upgrade from center pull brakes, to side pull brakes what is the reach size you recommend? The frame is 27x1 1/4 vintage Raleigh.
Hello! There are a few variables but if you measure the distance from the hole in the crown of the fork to the braking surface on the rim you can figure out what reach caliper is going to work for your bike. Typically is is going to be a longer reach caliper but there are many different sizes so measuring to get the correct part is important.
It might be you have a "U-brake", which is similar. See ua-cam.com/video/YS1cW3I4OgQ/v-deo.html Center pulls have a single bolt mounting it to the frame. Grab the bracket connecting the two arms and pivot it left or right as needed. But U-brakes are different. You change spring tension on each arm.
Hi all, please HELP me find some Park Tool video on how to adjust (replace and fit cables, etc.) on CANTILEVER brakes (which i just can't find on yt by PT, dunno...) mine are center pull and are the the Tektro kind called "frog cantilevers", cos the brake bodies/'legs' stick out almost horizontal (like the legs of a sitting frog seen from front view) It's a kind of common ciclocross/tourism brakes quite common and they look simple and easy BUT it's a trap, they indeed need fine tuning. i did see some cheap videos out there on yt. Reason why i need a reliable one like Park Tool. Please help. Thanks!
As a first-time restorer of a 1974 Raleigh International, I found this video very helpful. The last suggestion in the video, to use brake pads with "independent toe settings" helped me decide to replace the rectangular blocks with newer adjustable pads. The old rectangular pads with new rubber simply did not contact the rim squarely, so I was only getting about 25% contact with the rim. The alternative, bending the brake arms to make the pads fit, would have involved more trial and error adjusting than I wanted to put the old brake arms through. And I'm going to have two different wheelsets for this bike. The newer pads automatically align themselves with the rim when I put them on finger tight and squeeze the brake lever.
I love how simple and professional Park Tool makes their videos. It is so easy to learn how to do anything with a bicycle.
Thanks so much for covering maintenance of the old school classic bikes! Our shop still sees a lot of these older bikes so I'll make sure our new mechanics watch this.
Thanks for posting this most clear and precise video. I recently upgraded my beautiful old Raleigh Record Ace 1981. On the list was the brakes. Originally mounted with Weinnman 605's (very poor braking), they were switched to the great Mafac Competition Gold centre pulls. A whole new world opened to me. Mounted the Kool Stop pads, and now I can ride safely in Paris, France, because it's one of the most dangerous cities in Europe. You do more braking than pedaling ! You have clearly explained the principle of "toeing" the pads, and now I understand much better. Thanks a million. All the best.
This is one slick video! Production values are high and the explanations are so good, a dummy like me even "gets it". :)
I just added a center pull front brake to a new city bike that only came with a rear coaster brake.
I had thought that the barrel adjuster was always near the brake lever, but your video clearly shows that for center pull brakes it’s at the cable hanger. That adjustment made all the difference in reducing the amount of travel in the brake lever and getting proper feel on the brake.
Thanks so much!
Great video! Very helpful for me, just picked up an old Super Sport and am new to all this. Proper brake adjustment is on my list. Thanks again
That bike is just awesome, what a beauty.
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Now onto the handbrake adjustments!
Amazing video thanks a lot! I had a har time figuring this out before as not that many info is now available.
One last question is were the two bolts on the side of the break the ones that have a red colour circle underneath doing I tried adjusting them but I’m not sure what they do.
Thumbs up for the Schrader valve adapter on the downtube shifter clamp
Thank you so much! This video is a lifesaver -- or at least a '75 Schwinn Continental saver.
Wow! Very informative and professional video. Thank you!
Im soo hyped right now! i want to build my fixed-gear bike but its 02.30am at the moment
You guys are a lifesaver!
Thank you
Ok, so that’s how it’s done. I never knew that swapping bars would make me redo cabling, brakes, etc. Definitely interesting experience, but whoever at roadmaster decided to put one of these on the front and a cantilever at rear deserves to be fired. Definitely new to this, may honestly take to the shop and pay them the 30 just to get it done right lol. Just want to ride my bike
Thank you sir ! Saved my day, I was about to rage quit and this explained it perfectly :)
Tnx for video. I was looking for information about installing my old Weinmann Vainqueur 999.
Do you have a video converting center pull to caliper brakes?
Excellent video. I have a 1981 Motobecane 62'. I love it! I also liked and subscribed!
UA-cam Gold, if you know how to dig for it !!!
Is this bike a Fuji Grand SE?
Thanks for the help Park tool 😊
It looks way more difficult than it is. I was having a hard time today trying to adjust my brakes since my back brakes aren't working correctly. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to understand it better. .
Impressive - kudos to you guys.
Thank you so much for this very informative video.
love this vid. love your paramount, care to name your replacement brake pads? They are low key and nice looking.
What if you have a cable thats frayed at the end and youre trying to fit it into the hole on the brake tension bolt. Do you have to have a new perfect cable or is there a way around this? Thanks
It is amazing well explained!!
Excellent video
Anyone have recommendations on new brake pads for this style of brakes?
Having trouble setting up my rear end brakes
Everybody used center pull until Merckx won the Tour '69 with Campagnolo side pull brakes.
I just got a 27" from 1979, and while I managed to get the center pull brakes to work properly, I'd like to upgrade to a dual pivot caliper. Is that possible? Are there any cautions that should be taken with this repair? Thanks.
Yes this is possible. You will by-pass the housing stop of the fork and rear seat stays, and these can be removed. You need to measure from the mounting hole to the rim, and match this to the reach of dual pivot you purchase.
What are those pads?
I wish you were my next door neighbor I'd come to you all the time
thanks a lot great video
Don't you guys make a tool for bending caliper arms to set the toe? I'm sure I've used one.
Park BT3, and it was before this video was made.
Indeed! We discontinued that tool about 15 years ago - it’s not so applicable to modern bikes, and the demand for it eventually tapered off. You can still find them used here and there, or use the technique we show in this video.
Im looking into using a weinmann type centrepull brake on an 80s bmx, is there any safety reason that would make this a bad idea?
Thanks a lot great!
Great video, thank you!
What is the tool being used at 03:21 (ua-cam.com/video/iJeYSKUI-6A/v-deo.html). I have seen the 3-way wrenches before, but not with a socket type end (if that's called a socket?)
I may be swappomg my old 27 inch wheels for a 700c set and may need to replace my centerpull calipers for long reach. Would you recommend staying with centerpull or maybe switching to a side pull design? The CP calipers were considered superior back in the '70s for even pad pressure as I recall. What would you suggest?
There is nothing superior about the design of the center pull. The center pull does give the bike a retro-look, however, it requires more work in cabling as it need a housing stop on the fork. Either way be sure you get a long enough reach when converting.
-Calvin
Is it possible to convert centre pull brakes to a V break type system on a vintage Raleigh?
No. The V-brake systems use a "cantilever" mount, which is a stud on the fork and frame, near the rim.
I'm working on an old Raleigh hybrid bike, and it's a mixture of cantilever & centre pull and it's damn hard to get it right.
Why does it have both? Old mountain bikes were sometimes a cantilever and U brake setup, but i've never seen a cantilever/centrepull mix.
ParkTool, please help me. I want to upgrade from center pull brakes, to side pull brakes what is the reach size you recommend? The frame is 27x1 1/4 vintage Raleigh.
Hello! There are a few variables but if you measure the distance from the hole in the crown of the fork to the braking surface on the rim you can figure out what reach caliper is going to work for your bike. Typically is is going to be a longer reach caliper but there are many different sizes so measuring to get the correct part is important.
i would like to ask
i have a mountain bike which is using this kinds of brakes but the front seems to be rubbing how can i fix that?
It might be you have a "U-brake", which is similar. See ua-cam.com/video/YS1cW3I4OgQ/v-deo.html
Center pulls have a single bolt mounting it to the frame. Grab the bracket connecting the two arms and pivot it left or right as needed. But U-brakes are different. You change spring tension on each arm.
i see. thanks for the help
*Stares at my bike in deep confusion* "WHAT KIND OF SORCERY IS THIS?! YOUR CALIPERS ARE ON THE FRIGGIN SIDE???"
I want that bike
センタープルでVブレーキのようなワイヤー取り回しのブレーキがあったが？
No. The two are not the same. V-brakes use a pivot below the brake rim. Center pull arms pivot above the rim. Different systems entirely.
Hi all, please HELP me find some Park Tool video on how to adjust (replace and fit cables, etc.) on CANTILEVER brakes (which i just can't find on yt by PT, dunno...) mine are center pull and are the the Tektro kind called "frog cantilevers", cos the brake bodies/'legs' stick out almost horizontal (like the legs of a sitting frog seen from front view)
It's a kind of common ciclocross/tourism brakes quite common and they look simple and easy BUT it's a trap, they indeed need fine tuning. i did see some cheap videos out there on yt. Reason why i need a reliable one like Park Tool.
Please help.
Thanks!
It was bugging me when the cable ends had end caps and not soldered.
10:00
this is not good
X
Heighth is not a word BTW.
Thanks!
I got a center pull brake just like this one. But the wire that attaches the left and right side is rusty. Is it possible to replace that rusty wire?
It sure is. Your Local bike shop should have one or should have access to a replacement. They are also available online. Center pull straddle cable.