In case you want to keep your original Altus cantilever brakes, you can print in 3D. Google "printables Spring Cup for Shimano Altus Cantilever Brake Designed to replace broken originals for the BR-CT-90-M brake" - I will not add link here because UA-cam block it. Thank you, fellas! Keep biking!
This reminds me of the early 21st century fix for all the computer motherboards with counterfeit capacitors that failed early. There were people who set up shop, and people would mail their boards to them for refurbishing. Maybe someone with a printer will make a bunch of these sleeves. I see a bunch of these brake sets on eBay, but not this part specifically. I wonder, though, how durable a printed replacement would be.
I flip vintage mtb’s and have repaired many of those broken collars. I hot glue them and then I put a zip tie around the collar holding it together. It’s a half ass fix but it works as long as the collar isn’t too badly broken.
Easy fix. Every shop or hobbyist dealing with this kind of bikes has a HUGE box full with obsolete clamp-on Alu Barends. cut them to rings with a hacksaw, they will fit perfectly over the Plastic rings and keep them tight.
Thanks for this video! I managed to get my hands on a near mint 2000 26” Trek 6000 with these same style brakes. The brakes looked new but the rubber was like plastic from sitting in storage for so long, just needed to figure out how to install the brakes 👍🏽
I have a Schwinn Paramount PDG 40, it has all Deore , canti brakes that I just took apart cleaned and lubed and these brakes work amazing . I found this bike on craigslist from a guy that had worked at the Schwinn shop, one of my best bikes, can do it all ,
Lucy my older late 80s bike has Shim Deore cant brakes. They don't have flimsy plastic caps. End of brake is solid alloy and end of spring locates in this. Still good 35 years later.
I've got a plastic spring casing that split. And I put two zip ties around it and also some JB weld. It looks like it's going to work, but I haven't put the bike back together yet.
Thanks for such an informative video, I am desperately having a question that I can not find the answer anywhere online. I have a bike with smooth stud cantilever brakes pads with shaft diameter of 6mm, when I browse Amazon to buy new pads for my bike they mostly mention 6.75 mm for brake pad shaft diameter, and most brake pads online they do not even mention the shaft diameter. How do you guys choose the right brake pad shaft diameter for your bikes?
I acquired a mid 90's Giant Innova Bike, and the Canti Levers were replaced at some point. Have a hard rubber piece behind the lever arms. And yes, not having those easy to use park tools makes it even more difficult to adjust. All the components are Alivio. (For fun compare bikes like this to the new trek 520 and ask yourself is it worth well over a thousand more?) Replaced the pads with Kool Stop pads. Some squeaking, but still adjusting them. You won't know those pads are correct until that bike is ridden.
This is actually insane, that companies don't make replacement covers for the retention springs. Gotta spread the message so that companies start producing new covers (either in plastic or something more rugged)
@@markosverdhi meh..new brake cheap. I admire your thoughts on 3d printing but it seems to me that the juice just ain't worth the squeeze regarding making your own housings. For one a person has to get the dimensions and who's to say that they are universal?
@@ebikeengineer I work on a fair bit of bikes and as a small timer bike flipper I find that the cost of having to replace the braking system does not seem worth it.
@@myvicariouslife4012 LOL, of course it's worth it. The joy of building while creating something unique and improved performance cannot be measured. Amy idiot with a fistful of dollars can buy a better bike with zero thought, I've got a good sturdy chrome Mike steel frame with steel rings that hold my fat ass just fine, of rather spend a few days tinkering. There is always there option to go back, but I don't think that will be required. My guess is you don't drive a Jeep.
Over the years, when a friend took her mid-90's Trek MultiTrack to two different shops for a tuneup, they told her about some problem with the Shimano center-pulls where there was no longer a replacement part available, but they said it wasn't urgent, so she never had the brakes replaced. When I looked at them just now, the plastic sleeves seemed fine, and the brakes seemed to work fine. Were the shops just trying to be proactive, or is there something I should still do with the brakes? The bike has not been ridden much over the years.
If the sleeves arnt cracked don't worry about it unless you want to be proactive. Depended on the model they will likely Crack but some didn't. I would look at them more closely because they probably said it for a reason.
Buy Avid cantis that take v brake pads. Great mud clearance and they use those safety line pieces that the cable runs throgh to the brake arms. No straddle needed.
V-brakes have two tensioning screws, cantilevers only one. I love cantilevers, once they're set they don't go wrong for years, whereas V-brakes always have problems. On my Vivente World Randonneur, there's a disc brake on the rear wheel, but also cantilevers as replacements, which is a lot more reliable than V-brakes.
I think cantis are more "logical" since the pulling power is symmetrical, coming from a center. Lately, I got hell from the V brakes, I tried everything and they never go back to a symmetrical position. I watched many YT videos and worked hard, in vain, I also lubricated them so they won´t get stuck, no effect. When it pulls from the side it just won't go back nicely exact as it was. I demounted these things, studied them, lubricated the parts, in vain. I think I'm done with the V break, I'm going to test it with a forward canti and see what happens. Also, when using cantis one can easily adjust the lenght of the brake pad shaft, it's not really working on the V brake, that's why I think cantis are more "logical". Will start with one set, it'll be interesting to see what'll happen, lol. Thanks for the video!
IMHO it depends on the type of cantilever. The one shown in this video (same type used on my bike) uses a Y adapter that shunts the main cable to one side, while the other side length remains static. IMHO this removed the symmetry and makes brake adjustment more a PITA. Now I've seen the Shimano version, where they run a cable from side to side and the brake cable goes to a slider that sits in the middle of the cross wire (that's whre the brake adjustment is made). That type keeps it symetrical no matter the adjusment.
Exactly. With this old "new" style of Shimano hanger/triangle piece that routes the cable through on one side and has the other cable fixed, you can't really rely on precieved symmetry of the cables. From my experience it will only align and center nicely under stress. Universal fit, true "fixed triangle" pieces can be had new for 5-10 bucks/euros. But I'm not sure they'll improve performance at all. Got a set of near mint 90s XT brakes from my dad an they also come with the flimsy hanger pieces
@@solidblockofsunrise Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that if the wheel get a hit and gets wobbly there's no way to set the frame brakes at all! I'm going to buy a bike with disc brakes, maybe they are less prone to being unreliable because of wheel "wobbling". I was about to buy one, actually, but then I saw that now they use a different gear shifting, with levers, not with a simple "turning" like I have on my old bike, a GripShift, well working since 10 years.
I have a Trek 930 singletrack , it had a shock on the front , I took it off & put the original fork back on , now i need to find the correct front brake cable hanger , do you have any suggestions ?
Got a semi new cx bike with carbon fork and cantis recently that has major front brake judder. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Worse case O can maybe run mini Vs up front but not sure how long an arm is sufficient enough to run 38-42cm tires without running into clearance issues?
Best ways to deal with brake shudder. 1. Drastically tow in your pads so the front of the pad hits the rim first. 2. If the cable stop is mounted on the stem, steerer tube, or headset cap change it with a fork mounted cable stop if possible. 3. Go with mini v brakes they work much better and have no brake shutter.
Glad I found your vid since I just came across a trek 720. (I’m very new to bikes) I want to ride it to work and decided to update parts and those are the ones I bought. Just wondering if there is a difference between the rear and front shimano cantilever brakes. I ordered both but realized they look EXACTLY the same XD
What's up my friend? I love your video. I'll get to the point. I found a Bianchi Nyala frame in a stair well of my apt. Normally I would walk by and leave an old machine such as this, but the voice in my head said take it, so I did. The frame was bare bone, so I needed to find parts. I rebuilt and packed the bottom bracket, no problem, rebuilt and packed the head set. I need to know what do you call the peace that holds the cable housing in place to lead the cable to the center pull of the Cantilever brake system. I really hope I described it well enough to understand. The piece fits around the neck of the stem on the bottom of the neck. I also need a similar piece for the rear brake. If I knew the name I could order the piece on line. Can you help me? I do plan on going with drop bars with a single speed freewheel 44-18 for now until I figure out my drive train system. The last machine I had was a Raleigh Composition GS 1980 modal. That's right my friend, I'm 69 and still kicking; just not as high as back in the day. Well that's my story. Can you help me?
@@ChrisEnockson Thanks my friend! I kind of Knew that, but just wasn't sure; it's been a really long time! I'm going to jump right on that by checking local bike shops as well as the internet. Thanks again my friend! Peace!
My guess is it's either a cheap rubber compound that's too hard, a overly slick breaking surface that doesnt grab well, or they are not set up properly. If the rubber seems to be hard and not grippy try sanding it a bit with sandpaper. If the sandpaper doesnt help replace the pads. If it's the rim theres not much you can do but better pads will help grip better. Hope this helps.
In a pinch you can put an automotive style worm drive hose clamp around the plastic casing if there is enough of it left & trying to fix a split or 2. It’s not the prettiest but it will get the bike on the road safely while you purchase replacement parts. I was able to get new plastic pieces at a bicycle shop locally before to repair mine, but this was easily over 10 yrs ago them. I had to ask the shop bicycle mechanic. They were not out on the retail shelves.
Why not pull the handbrake part of the way, tie it in place, and then install the pads right up against the rim? I would think that if you do this, they would be in perfect position. Untie the handbrake, and they will open up and not be touching the rim anymore. And when you squeeze the handbrake, I would think that they would both come into contact with the rim at exactly the same time and in perfect position. Am I wrong?
In theory it's correct but in practice this will rarely work. First off the pressure applied on the brake lever would have to be a lot because the pads are prone to twisting or moving on one of there axis. You really have to hold the brake pad to get it torqued properly.
I've had to pull these types of Canti's off a few bikes, not because they are bad, but because the owner rode long and hard but was so inept at maintenance and changing parts. They almost completely destroyed their cranks forcing pedals on, they did not have the patience to set up these type of brakes.
After replacing my rear tire and reconnecting the brakes my cable is slack and is stuck in the housing, will not move. How do I fix this so I can adjust the brakes?
I throw those away. Generic v brakes are ubiquitous and often free. Bmx pads are cheap enough. They sometimes work well enough with canti levers if the rider has strong hands. A lot of 7sp shifter combos had selectable v/canti cable spots.
You're talking utter nonsense! 🤨The spring is attached on both sides with the spring pins to metal and thus keeps the tension. The plastic cover is just... a cover against dirt and nothing else. If it is broken, just use a wide ziptie to fix it and you are set to go back on the road. Have been doing this for years. V-Brakes have the same spring and usually no plastic cover at all, because... they break apart after some years.
@@ChrisEnockson I rewatched your video and now I see what you mean. One part of your spring is attached to the plastic cover to hold it in place. Of course, a broken plastic ring doesn't hold anything. My cantilevers on my Trek 730 have no plastic cover at all and work as designed. They are old '95 XT cantilevers and probably a later model than yours and/or the more expensive XT version. 🤔
In case you want to keep your original Altus cantilever brakes, you can print in 3D. Google "printables Spring Cup for Shimano Altus Cantilever Brake Designed to replace broken originals for the BR-CT-90-M brake" - I will not add link here because UA-cam block it. Thank you, fellas! Keep biking!
This reminds me of the early 21st century fix for all the computer motherboards with counterfeit capacitors that failed early. There were people who set up shop, and people would mail their boards to them for refurbishing.
Maybe someone with a printer will make a bunch of these sleeves. I see a bunch of these brake sets on eBay, but not this part specifically.
I wonder, though, how durable a printed replacement would be.
Thank God this is a thing the modern replacements look so cheap and ugly
I am very impressed with your unseen ability to get the wheel true, and I am not being sarcastic.
Didn't know about that last tip! Will have to try that out for my rear brakes
Thank you!
I flip vintage mtb’s and have repaired many of those broken collars. I hot glue them and then I put a zip tie around the collar holding it together. It’s a half ass fix but it works as long as the collar isn’t too badly broken.
Thank you really helpful, solved the brake problem on my 1990s Ridgeback.
Glad it helped
Easy fix. Every shop or hobbyist dealing with this kind of bikes has a HUGE box full with obsolete clamp-on Alu Barends. cut them to rings with a hacksaw, they will fit perfectly over the Plastic rings and keep them tight.
I put those on exercise bikes or use them to hold up stem shifters higher. They can also be cut and used to mount phones or computers
Thanks for this video! I managed to get my hands on a near mint 2000 26” Trek 6000 with these same style brakes. The brakes looked new but the rubber was like plastic from sitting in storage for so long, just needed to figure out how to install the brakes 👍🏽
I have a Schwinn Paramount PDG 40, it has all Deore , canti brakes that I just took apart cleaned and lubed and these brakes work amazing . I found this bike on craigslist from a guy that had worked at the Schwinn shop, one of my best bikes, can do it all ,
Great video. Was having fits trying to adjust rear brakes on a 90's Mongoose. Plastic piece was broke and I didn't even notice
Because that plastic piece has no function apart from covering it from dirt and rain.
Lucy my older late 80s bike has Shim Deore cant brakes. They don't have flimsy plastic caps. End of brake is solid alloy and end of spring locates in this. Still good 35 years later.
How would those plastic things have any effect on spring tension? Aren't they more cosmetic than anything else?
Plastic is just a casing; in theory, it doesn’t impact the spring’s performance.
You should have million subs.
Subbed!
Thank you
I've got a plastic spring casing that split. And I put two zip ties around it and also some JB weld. It looks like it's going to work, but I haven't put the bike back together yet.
Hopefully the jb weld doesn't lock up the spring.
I am getting PTSD flash backs from this video. The breaks on this bike gave me so much hell.
Great video! Time to do the same on my 92 Trek 520 Touring
Thanks for such an informative video, I am desperately having a question that I can not find the answer anywhere online. I have a bike with smooth stud cantilever brakes pads with shaft diameter of 6mm, when I browse Amazon to buy new pads for my bike they mostly mention 6.75 mm for brake pad shaft diameter, and most brake pads online they do not even mention the shaft diameter. How do you guys choose the right brake pad shaft diameter for your bikes?
To the best of my knowledge all post mount cantilevers use the same pads. I have never seen any other size.
I acquired a mid 90's Giant Innova Bike, and the Canti Levers were replaced at some point. Have a hard rubber piece behind the lever arms. And yes, not having those easy to use park tools makes it even more difficult to adjust.
All the components are Alivio. (For fun compare bikes like this to the new trek 520 and ask yourself is it worth well over a thousand more?)
Replaced the pads with Kool Stop pads. Some squeaking, but still adjusting them. You won't know those pads are correct until that bike is ridden.
This is actually insane, that companies don't make replacement covers for the retention springs.
Gotta spread the message so that companies start producing new covers (either in plastic or something more rugged)
Maybe someone with more skill than me can create a 3d print file for them.
I just replaced my cantilever with Shimano V brakes. I'm finding adjusting the brakes is now easier, and the front brake seems to grip better.
@@markosverdhi meh..new brake cheap. I admire your thoughts on 3d printing but it seems to me that the juice just ain't worth the squeeze regarding making your own housings. For one a person has to get the dimensions and who's to say that they are universal?
@@ebikeengineer I work on a fair bit of bikes and as a small timer bike flipper I find that the cost of having to replace the braking system does not seem worth it.
@@myvicariouslife4012 LOL, of course it's worth it. The joy of building while creating something unique and improved performance cannot be measured. Amy idiot with a fistful of dollars can buy a better bike with zero thought, I've got a good sturdy chrome Mike steel frame with steel rings that hold my fat ass just fine, of rather spend a few days tinkering. There is always there option to go back, but I don't think that will be required. My guess is you don't drive a Jeep.
Over the years, when a friend took her mid-90's Trek MultiTrack to two different shops for a tuneup, they told her about some problem with the Shimano center-pulls where there was no longer a replacement part available, but they said it wasn't urgent, so she never had the brakes replaced. When I looked at them just now, the plastic sleeves seemed fine, and the brakes seemed to work fine.
Were the shops just trying to be proactive, or is there something I should still do with the brakes? The bike has not been ridden much over the years.
If the sleeves arnt cracked don't worry about it unless you want to be proactive. Depended on the model they will likely Crack but some didn't. I would look at them more closely because they probably said it for a reason.
excellent vid, thanks
Good video. Thanks for making it sir.
Buy Avid cantis that take v brake pads. Great mud clearance and they use those safety line pieces that the cable runs throgh to the brake arms. No straddle needed.
Happy New Year. While viewing this video, I have one question, can crazy glue be helpful to fix the spring issue. Please advise.
I doubt it would make for a good long term fix.
Great video thanks for the upload
V-brakes have two tensioning screws, cantilevers only one.
I love cantilevers, once they're set they don't go wrong for years, whereas V-brakes always have problems.
On my Vivente World Randonneur, there's a disc brake on the rear wheel, but also cantilevers as replacements, which is a lot more reliable than V-brakes.
Awesome 👍
would cinching a ziptie around the plastic cover provide enough compression to tension the spring? I have a 720 multitrack.
I think cantis are more "logical" since the pulling power is symmetrical, coming from a center. Lately, I got hell from the V brakes, I tried everything and they never go back to a symmetrical position. I watched many YT videos and worked hard, in vain, I also lubricated them so they won´t get stuck, no effect. When it pulls from the side it just won't go back nicely exact as it was. I demounted these things, studied them, lubricated the parts, in vain. I think I'm done with the V break, I'm going to test it with a forward canti and see what happens. Also, when using cantis one can easily adjust the lenght of the brake pad shaft, it's not really working on the V brake, that's why I think cantis are more "logical". Will start with one set, it'll be interesting to see what'll happen, lol. Thanks for the video!
IMHO it depends on the type of cantilever. The one shown in this video (same type used on my bike) uses a Y adapter that shunts the main cable to one side, while the other side length remains static. IMHO this removed the symmetry and makes brake adjustment more a PITA. Now I've seen the Shimano version, where they run a cable from side to side and the brake cable goes to a slider that sits in the middle of the cross wire (that's whre the brake adjustment is made). That type keeps it symetrical no matter the adjusment.
Exactly. With this old "new" style of Shimano hanger/triangle piece that routes the cable through on one side and has the other cable fixed, you can't really rely on precieved symmetry of the cables. From my experience it will only align and center nicely under stress.
Universal fit, true "fixed triangle" pieces can be had new for 5-10 bucks/euros. But I'm not sure they'll improve performance at all. Got a set of near mint 90s XT brakes from my dad an they also come with the flimsy hanger pieces
@@solidblockofsunrise
Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention that if the wheel get a hit and gets wobbly there's no way to set the frame brakes at all!
I'm going to buy a bike with disc brakes, maybe they are less prone to being unreliable because of wheel "wobbling". I was about to buy one, actually, but then I saw that now they use a different gear shifting, with levers, not with a simple "turning" like I have on my old bike, a GripShift, well working since 10 years.
really helpful vid! subbed
I have a Trek 930 singletrack , it had a shock on the front , I took it off & put the original fork back on , now i need to find the correct front brake cable hanger , do you have any suggestions ?
Got a semi new cx bike with carbon fork and cantis recently that has major front brake judder. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? Worse case O can maybe run mini Vs up front but not sure how long an arm is sufficient enough to run 38-42cm tires without running into clearance issues?
Best ways to deal with brake shudder.
1. Drastically tow in your pads so the front of the pad hits the rim first.
2. If the cable stop is mounted on the stem, steerer tube, or headset cap change it with a fork mounted cable stop if possible.
3. Go with mini v brakes they work much better and have no brake shutter.
Glad I found your vid since I just came across a trek 720. (I’m very new to bikes) I want to ride it to work and decided to update parts and those are the ones I bought. Just wondering if there is a difference between the rear and front shimano cantilever brakes. I ordered both but realized they look EXACTLY the same XD
They do specifically call them front and rear but honestly dont know the difference. It's very minimal if anything.
@@ChrisEnockson Brake pads are in the right position. If you use the rear on the front or vice versa just swap the pad.
What's up my friend? I love your video. I'll get to the point. I found a Bianchi Nyala frame in a stair well of my apt. Normally I would walk by and leave an old machine such as this, but the voice in my head said take it, so I did. The frame was bare bone, so I needed to find parts. I rebuilt and packed the bottom bracket, no problem, rebuilt and packed the head set. I need to know what do you call the peace that holds the cable housing in place to lead the cable to the center pull of the Cantilever brake system. I really hope I described it well enough to understand. The piece fits around the neck of the stem on the bottom of the neck. I also need a similar piece for the rear brake. If I knew the name I could order the piece on line. Can you help me? I do plan on going with drop bars with a single speed freewheel 44-18 for now until I figure out my drive train system. The last machine I had was a Raleigh Composition GS 1980 modal. That's right my friend, I'm 69 and still kicking; just not as high as back in the day. Well that's my story. Can you help me?
It's called a cable hanger
@@ChrisEnockson Thanks my friend! I kind of Knew that, but just wasn't sure; it's been a really long time! I'm going to jump right on that by checking local bike shops as well as the internet. Thanks again my friend! Peace!
how do you fix pads slip or brake pads not holding much on the rims? i got new cantilever brakes with stock pads not holding properly
My guess is it's either a cheap rubber compound that's too hard, a overly slick breaking surface that doesnt grab well, or they are not set up properly. If the rubber seems to be hard and not grippy try sanding it a bit with sandpaper. If the sandpaper doesnt help replace the pads. If it's the rim theres not much you can do but better pads will help grip better. Hope this helps.
God bless you sir
sir how can i adjust my front wheel to be in the middle
it is near to right side more than left side
Are rear and front kantilever calipers the same? I currently have rear BR-MJ05-M shimano
where do you buy the replacement cantilevers ?
eeeeeebay and stuff
In a pinch you can put an automotive style worm drive hose clamp around the plastic casing if there is enough of it left & trying to fix a split or 2. It’s not the prettiest but it will get the bike on the road safely while you purchase replacement parts. I was able to get new plastic pieces at a bicycle shop locally before to repair mine, but this was easily over 10 yrs ago them. I had to ask the shop bicycle mechanic. They were not out on the retail shelves.
Amazon
Nice you didn't over tighten the bolts that hold the caliper to the forks.
Why not pull the handbrake part of the way, tie it in place, and then install the pads right up against the rim?
I would think that if you do this, they would be in perfect position. Untie the handbrake, and they will open up and not be touching the rim anymore. And when you squeeze the handbrake, I would think that they would both come into contact with the rim at exactly the same time and in perfect position. Am I wrong?
In theory it's correct but in practice this will rarely work. First off the pressure applied on the brake lever would have to be a lot because the pads are prone to twisting or moving on one of there axis. You really have to hold the brake pad to get it torqued properly.
I've had to pull these types of Canti's off a few bikes, not because they are bad, but because the owner rode long and hard but was so inept at maintenance and changing parts. They almost completely destroyed their cranks forcing pedals on, they did not have the patience to set up these type of brakes.
After replacing my rear tire and reconnecting the brakes my cable is slack and is stuck in the housing, will not move. How do I fix this so I can adjust the brakes?
I have that bike I am fixing up for simple touring. Yep those brakes seem crooked.
"1990s stopping power" hell yesh, doood.
I found a vintage Kona and had to tune up everything, and I will attest that those brakes are seriously annoying to adjust!
annoying? for me its just horrible!!
Sziasztok~
I throw those away. Generic v brakes are ubiquitous and often free. Bmx pads are cheap enough. They sometimes work well enough with canti levers if the rider has strong hands. A lot of 7sp shifter combos had selectable v/canti cable spots.
What about the back brake
You’ve got the straddle cable in the wrong slot on the alignment disc.
You might try finding someone with a 3D printer to make those pieces for you if it's a common enough issue!
Awesome idea
Good idea. Any follow up on the plastic ring replacement. ?
You're talking utter nonsense! 🤨The spring is attached on both sides with the spring pins to metal and thus keeps the tension. The plastic cover is just... a cover against dirt and nothing else. If it is broken, just use a wide ziptie to fix it and you are set to go back on the road. Have been doing this for years.
V-Brakes have the same spring and usually no plastic cover at all, because... they break apart after some years.
The spring will not keep tension or be able to be adjusted with the cover broken you are incorrect.
@@ChrisEnockson I rewatched your video and now I see what you mean. One part of your spring is attached to the plastic cover to hold it in place. Of course, a broken plastic ring doesn't hold anything. My cantilevers on my Trek 730 have no plastic cover at all and work as designed. They are old '95 XT cantilevers and probably a later model than yours and/or the more expensive XT version. 🤔
Great video, but those brakes fucking suck! -Frustrated Mechanic
Pipe clamps maybe a solution
Yeah probably not a big market for plastic housings. New brakes are inexpensive
I bought different brake dosen't work at all
3d printing
Allen bolt = hex bolt = same difference.
In my opinion they are far better than v brakes.
Just replace them with v brakes!
V brakes and cantilever brake handles are not compatible, and if you have shifter and brake lever combo levers, it will be a bit expensive..
They are indeed compatible. I’ve mixed n matched all types and got them to work just fine.
Here's how to replace them. 3D printer.
That's not a fix, it's a replacement. Why not upgrade to V brakes?