i'm part of a small discord community that tackles rx8 issues, and was mostly born to share and troubleshoot versatune tunes, we would love to have you as a member with your deep rooted knowledge of this funky lil engine and its electronics, if you'd like to join ill happily reply to this comment with a link to it
@@geniuskingofthebes6499 yes this was directed to RAD, but everyone is free to join, i didn't want to make his comment section look like an advertisement page
@@ronnieslides i'm guessing the link is being autodeleted so i will put it in the bio of my channel, if RAD himself wants to join we would love his company
usually journal bearing turbos dont need a restrictor if oil pressure is 60 psi or below. as for the cause of the failure, id guess it was kind of related to the turbo being a bit crap. at leas buy a maxpeedingrods unit, they are very cheap turbos that you can kinda trust. and i would run watercooling on a rotary because of the high egts. i have run lots of the maxpeedingrods units and depending on how you treat them, they can last
There are 2 types of turbos, ball bearing and journal bearing, you probably have a journal bearing turbo, because it is such a cheap unit,. Ball bearing turbos dont need oil to function, they just need it for lubrication, on the other hand, journal bearing turbos need alot more oil to function properly because the oil forms a barrier between the journal bearing and the shaft. You'd want a bigger restrictor on that turbo, ideally 2.5mm or bigger.
Definitely get a lil bov, the surge/ reverse flow when the throttle closes definitely got the best of it(with a nice backfire..oh yeah). If you have an extra oil feed fitting just drill it out until it starts smoking then back it off lol, 1mm honestly sounds like a small hole but a 3-5mm for a journal bearing should suffice(don’t quote me on that). Deff tap in some water cooling, rotary’s run hot an egt gauge will help tons with that but ikyk 💪🏻
Shame to see the cheap turbo leave the chat so early, but the show must go on! Here's to hoping the next amazon special lasts a bit longer! As far as the RX7 and it filling up its catch-can, the RB series engines have a similar issue at higher boost levels. They would fill like 3-4L of oil in
I've had a compressor wheel nut come off during a drag run......I needed a new engine because of all the shavings from the compressor wheel grinding on housing......and a complete flush of my intercooler lol The housings were complete shit, apex seals though were okish
I've been through a lot of cheap turbos since the 2000s on the rx7s I've had and the one thing these cheap ones hate is heat, this turbo has coolant passages???. Rx7 just makes a shit ton of heat, and the turbine wheel, and the shaft on these cheap ones just sometimes cannot handle it. Of course though the previous backfire you had on the turbine wheel didnt help much either lol
My catchcan on my 13bt was filling up quickly but only on right hand turns while in boost from oil slosh I also think I had it plumbed wrong. Since I plumbed the lowest nipple to the can and the other can port to the top of my oil filler neck fixed this issue but I also went with a new oil filler neck thats baffled from JDL mfg. It's nice because it has extra ports tapped into it so you can put a pcv system on it aswell if you wanted. Its also nice because the filler neck swivels and is all billet so it looks nice. You can find them on his website.
If it’s not a real ball bearing turbo, then the 1mm restrictor is too small. Most people run a 1/8” which is close to 3mm. For rotaries that in-line OPR ensures the turbo doesn’t see oil pressure over 40psi.
I wonder if your garritt turbo is actually a preecision turbo given that the shaft broke. I know precision turbos (iirc) were known to that and actually caused a racing series to enforce crossmembers in the exhaust incase the turbine wheel tried to leave the exhaust
WE TOLD YOU SO!!!!😂 On a serious note, why not WPC treat an engine ( or at least the housing surfaces where the apex seals ride ) as a reliability experiment? Could be interesting.
No BOV?! I think your first problem starts there. since you already have another GarrIT coming… put a HEY-KS BOV on there too. But seriously. And yes bore out the restrictor to 2mm if you’re not going to add water cooling. Also don’t start doing donuts in the front yard immediately until you base map it this time… it was funny but that def did not help your poor GarrIT.
@@leoncarlier whether or not you have experienced issues running without a BOV, it doesn't change the fact that every reputable builder adds one for the safety of the engine and turbo.
@@leoncarlier I was like half serious but in reality, I believe he literally said back pressure killed his turbo and from what I saw in the video, it certainly did. I’d personally never not run a BOV/recirc valve on anything with a turbo period, but you certainly can do you. You probably have your shit dialed in pretty well and also you probably aren’t running a Garr”IT”. Keep that in mind.
Im thinking either the backfire like you said or the oil temps got too hot for the journal bearing and cooked it causing it to swell and and maybe break as it was spinning? Oil temps on rotaries run higher anyhow right? I'm not expert just thowing ideas out
restrictor will kill the turbo. it needs as much flow as the drain will support to keep it cool with rotoary egts. My 13b cruises at 13-1400f at cruise with a borg warner s364. a journal bearing is going to need as much flow as possible to keep it alive
It really sucks that the turbo broke. What did the shaft look like? I know a backfire can be violent but oil issues and heating is usually more likely. Was the shaft blued at all like it had seen a lot of heat?
It’s a choo choo train now. Edit: I commented this before hearing you saying it and seeing the compressor but being lose. Wow bro, you got lucky that the turbo didn’t swallow that. 😅
I. Always try and at least get the boys n everyone to at least always remove and lock Tight all the hardware that you do not want to ever come Loose on you with all these cheap no name parts they all like to grab every dam time lol im not hating they all kno ill support whatever they choose too due build wise on the cars its there car/build im just here for the helping hand and the good lifetime memories we make on the way so if they wanna chance it with a knock off external wastegate or a turbo charger ext to save money then lets due it but u gotta take the time too take the new part apart and wipe out/clean its insides make sure no bures or anything going on keep in mind theres a reason its alot cheaper then the good stuff taken these steps will save ya and more then likely last alot longer then just throwing the parts in and running it but yea all the hardware removed during desemble throw some thread sealer on and resemble throw some good grease/lube on any of the parts that would benefit haven some and ive always use honda bond on anything being matted together requiring a good seal shit never seems too fail me all these years but yea i always push these simple steps i mean honestly dose not take much time at all too due yall gotta understand som3time that if ur going too cheap out on parts too save money your last thing trying ontop of that is saveing time with throwing parts right in and sending it for instance you kno h9w many times ive watched videos on here with people going with these knock off turbos on there bu8lds which agin i dont mean any negative drama saying that but yea new knock off turbos on there veichles and going in with straight dry start with it no oil primeing no oil pressure build attempt no nothing 😂 alil time spent doing some oil prime ext helps with the turbo actually lasting and doing turbo things instead they drop a new video not long after knocking products and companies and others who use the parts smh
Tis a shame that the rotary turned into a diesel, hope you consider putting on the blow off, jus to save you $150 a week. Goodluck crossing the USA, should be a blast 😊
Just another keyboard warrior here but I’ve never run a restrictor on journal bearing turbos. Unless the manufacturer says it needs it I’d probably drill it open if your drain is large enough.
ROTARY CANNONBALL ⁉️
Dude it's gotta be
i'm part of a small discord community that tackles rx8 issues, and was mostly born to share and troubleshoot versatune tunes, we would love to have you as a member with your deep rooted knowledge of this funky lil engine and its electronics, if you'd like to join ill happily reply to this comment with a link to it
Is this offered to anyone?
can I get a link too lol
@@geniuskingofthebes6499 yes this was directed to RAD, but everyone is free to join, i didn't want to make his comment section look like an advertisement page
id love to join!
@@ronnieslides i'm guessing the link is being autodeleted so i will put it in the bio of my channel, if RAD himself wants to join we would love his company
usually journal bearing turbos dont need a restrictor if oil pressure is 60 psi or below.
as for the cause of the failure, id guess it was kind of related to the turbo being a bit crap. at leas buy a maxpeedingrods unit, they are very cheap turbos that you can kinda trust. and i would run watercooling on a rotary because of the high egts. i have run lots of the maxpeedingrods units and depending on how you treat them, they can last
I have owned 6 RX-7's in my life. I want another rotory so an RX-8 makes the most sense to me at this point in my life. I love the channel.
Journal bearing turbos generally don't need restrictors
There are 2 types of turbos, ball bearing and journal bearing, you probably have a journal bearing turbo, because it is such a cheap unit,.
Ball bearing turbos dont need oil to function, they just need it for lubrication, on the other hand, journal bearing turbos need alot more oil to function properly because the oil forms a barrier between the journal bearing and the shaft. You'd want a bigger restrictor on that turbo, ideally 2.5mm or bigger.
You definitely killed it with the restrictor 💯 percent
"lets find us a nice, cleean spot.... " *cuts to turbo on a stool* 🤣🤣🤣
Definitely get a lil bov, the surge/ reverse flow when the throttle closes definitely got the best of it(with a nice backfire..oh yeah). If you have an extra oil feed fitting just drill it out until it starts smoking then back it off lol, 1mm honestly sounds like a small hole but a 3-5mm for a journal bearing should suffice(don’t quote me on that). Deff tap in some water cooling, rotary’s run hot an egt gauge will help tons with that but ikyk 💪🏻
Make sure you bring some fire suppression for the green machine otherwise it may go off like a cannon. Hope you have a ball ;)
Shame to see the cheap turbo leave the chat so early, but the show must go on! Here's to hoping the next amazon special lasts a bit longer!
As far as the RX7 and it filling up its catch-can, the RB series engines have a similar issue at higher boost levels. They would fill like 3-4L of oil in
I've had a compressor wheel nut come off during a drag run......I needed a new engine because of all the shavings from the compressor wheel grinding on housing......and a complete flush of my intercooler lol
The housings were complete shit, apex seals though were okish
I've been through a lot of cheap turbos since the 2000s on the rx7s I've had and the one thing these cheap ones hate is heat, this turbo has coolant passages???. Rx7 just makes a shit ton of heat, and the turbine wheel, and the shaft on these cheap ones just sometimes cannot handle it. Of course though the previous backfire you had on the turbine wheel didnt help much either lol
My catchcan on my 13bt was filling up quickly but only on right hand turns while in boost from oil slosh I also think I had it plumbed wrong. Since I plumbed the lowest nipple to the can and the other can port to the top of my oil filler neck fixed this issue but I also went with a new oil filler neck thats baffled from JDL mfg. It's nice because it has extra ports tapped into it so you can put a pcv system on it aswell if you wanted. Its also nice because the filler neck swivels and is all billet so it looks nice. You can find them on his website.
If it’s not a real ball bearing turbo, then the 1mm restrictor is too small. Most people run a 1/8” which is close to 3mm. For rotaries that in-line OPR ensures the turbo doesn’t see oil pressure over 40psi.
Garbage in...... garbage out...🙃 but as always thanks for sharing the results!
Good luck on Cannonball! That should be Rad!
The turbo is stamped "turbocharger". Amazing.
I bet the front housing plate cracked by the pins.
Double check that you don’t want it to get worst 😅
I wonder if your garritt turbo is actually a preecision turbo given that the shaft broke. I know precision turbos (iirc) were known to that and actually caused a racing series to enforce crossmembers in the exhaust incase the turbine wheel tried to leave the exhaust
WE TOLD YOU SO!!!!😂
On a serious note, why not WPC treat an engine ( or at least the housing surfaces where the apex seals ride ) as a reliability experiment? Could be interesting.
No BOV?! I think your first problem starts there.
since you already have another GarrIT coming… put a HEY-KS BOV on there too. But seriously.
And yes bore out the restrictor to 2mm if you’re not going to add water cooling.
Also don’t start doing donuts in the front yard immediately until you base map it this time… it was funny but that def did not help your poor GarrIT.
The bov wont make a difference. I have had turbo rotaries with no bov and my current car is a barra turbo with 550hp and no bov.
@@leoncarlier whether or not you have experienced issues running without a BOV, it doesn't change the fact that every reputable builder adds one for the safety of the engine and turbo.
@@leoncarlier I was like half serious but in reality, I believe he literally said back pressure killed his turbo and from what I saw in the video, it certainly did.
I’d personally never not run a BOV/recirc valve on anything with a turbo period, but you certainly can do you. You probably have your shit dialed in pretty well and also you probably aren’t running a Garr”IT”. Keep that in mind.
Im thinking either the backfire like you said or the oil temps got too hot for the journal bearing and cooked it causing it to swell and and maybe break as it was spinning? Oil temps on rotaries run higher anyhow right? I'm not expert just thowing ideas out
restrictor will kill the turbo. it needs as much flow as the drain will support to keep it cool with rotoary egts. My 13b cruises at 13-1400f at cruise with a borg warner s364. a journal bearing is going to need as much flow as possible to keep it alive
We're gonna get a rotary cannonball run before GTA 6
Why do people keep buying this cheap China crap? What if it broke and took out the motor? Its not worth it people. STOP
I often ask the same question. It honestly makes zero sense. Chinese parts are mostly junk.
I mean he probably has like 4 backup rx8 engines… so I don’t think he’s worried about killing a motor
pretty sure he's doing it precisely because its cheap. trying to make a 200hp rx8 for the least amount of money is the name of this game I believe
i had good success with kinugawa turbos
It really sucks that the turbo broke. What did the shaft look like? I know a backfire can be violent but oil issues and heating is usually more likely. Was the shaft blued at all like it had seen a lot of heat?
RX8 Cannonball run when?????
Drain the catch can back to the oil pan.
It’s a choo choo train now.
Edit: I commented this before hearing you saying it and seeing the compressor but being lose. Wow bro, you got lucky that the turbo didn’t swallow that. 😅
the restrictor is too big actually, too much pressure will blow the oil seal in the china charger, very common,
get an oil baffle plate for your pan
that flame tune I bet caused the shaft to break.
Rad Dude, do you have a list to strip weight out of an RX8? 1350 kg is at least 200 kg too much. Looking for speed without the extra fuel....
I think the nut not was tide enough it got lose and the shaft lost the balance I see the shaft bend but not broken like that one on half
I.
Always try and at least get the boys n everyone to at least always remove and lock Tight all the hardware that you do not want to ever come Loose on you with all these cheap no name parts they all like to grab every dam time lol im not hating they all kno ill support whatever they choose too due build wise on the cars its there car/build im just here for the helping hand and the good lifetime memories we make on the way so if they wanna chance it with a knock off external wastegate or a turbo charger ext to save money then lets due it but u gotta take the time too take the new part apart and wipe out/clean its insides make sure no bures or anything going on keep in mind theres a reason its alot cheaper then the good stuff taken these steps will save ya and more then likely last alot longer then just throwing the parts in and running it but yea all the hardware removed during desemble throw some thread sealer on and resemble throw some good grease/lube on any of the parts that would benefit haven some and ive always use honda bond on anything being matted together requiring a good seal shit never seems too fail me all these years but yea i always push these simple steps i mean honestly dose not take much time at all too due yall gotta understand som3time that if ur going too cheap out on parts too save money your last thing trying ontop of that is saveing time with throwing parts right in and sending it for instance you kno h9w many times ive watched videos on here with people going with these knock off turbos on there bu8lds which agin i dont mean any negative drama saying that but yea new knock off turbos on there veichles and going in with straight dry start with it no oil primeing no oil pressure build attempt no nothing 😂 alil time spent doing some oil prime ext helps with the turbo actually lasting and doing turbo things instead they drop a new video not long after knocking products and companies and others who use the parts smh
Tis a shame that the rotary turned into a diesel, hope you consider putting on the blow off, jus to save you $150 a week. Goodluck crossing the USA, should be a blast 😊
I was waiting for thissss😭😭😭😭
😮 no Bumblebee
Bigger turbine housing this time bro
Talk to Ed Bolian, he'll have some good advise for ya.
Definitely run a BOV next time.
Oh
Never say die!
double the spend on a maxspeedingrods "gt45"
Just another keyboard warrior here but I’ve never run a restrictor on journal bearing turbos. Unless the manufacturer says it needs it I’d probably drill it open if your drain is large enough.
2.2 mm on 360 bearing feed
Will you use a blow-off valve on the next turbo?!
dude, whyd you let Gears and gasoline ONLY make 180whp?
ported renesis make like 200whp+ usually
very unfortunate to hear
helps keep it in the bottom
Im waiting for the update 😜
New turbo and more fun
aawww darn 😕
Hi
First. RIP lol