Always learn something useful in Mr Rad’s class. Thanks! My 8 spent the last 2 weeks on blocks in my barn. Commuting has been a slice of heaven on new coilovers, rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers, refinished rims, tires, BHR coils (thanks Charles!) plugs, clean MAF & throttle body, etc. Did it all myself thanks to YT and RAD Potential.
I’ve been driving an RX-8 for the last year and a half and never new this 😂 I’ll have to try that out just been gently laying the plastic side on the rear quarter
Rebuilt engine in mine lasted a whopping 48k miles. When I tore it apart the oil control rings had been doubled up during assembly. Don’t be surprised if, when you tear apart this one to rebuild, you find Caterpillar half-assed the build.
Neutral switch on the side of the transmission. There are two. The reverse switch and the neural switch. I can't remember which is which but one has 2 white connectors and the other has 2 black ones.
The hunting idle in gear is typically the neutral switch and can be verified with an OBD2 reader. Ot’s just a continuity switch so jumping/unjumping the two wiring connector tabs can verify. It’s on the LH side of the trans back near the shifter housing. I want to say it’s an odd 18mm size (might be larger like 22mm?, been a while) but a long socket with a slot in it for the wiring to pass through like an O2 sensor socket is the easiest way to swap it out in the chassis. Might have to loosen the trans/ppf bolts to let it drop down out of the tunnel cavity.
Also make sure ithe neutral sensor DOES NOT have a sealing washer between the sensor and the trans. It doesn’t have one from the factory, only some sealer on the threads, because it sits above the lube oil level. If someone mistakenly puts a sealing washer under it, the sensor tip will not engage the shifter shaft divot and it will cause the hunting idle in gear issue as well.
My S2 RX-8 gets 14mpg every time and uses a 1/2 quart of oil every fill up. But it runs like a champ. 95 psi compression at 114k miles. I’m thankful for how good it has been to me.
If you have a 3d printer there is a gas cap holder out there. I'd be happy to send you a resin printed holder so it won't melt in the summer. Mine has been just fine for the last two years
My starts have been getting longer as well, but its wild to see how easy yours still starts just fine with a certified low compression rebuilt engine. Mine is rebuilt as well with like 11K miles on it now, but the last year or so its taken longer and longer to start hot and cold. Sometimes quicker than others. Very odd
It could be a million things, but one issue I found was that I had metal shavings stuck to the magnetic portion of the timing sensor (I think this was from when I was creating new threads for my stripped oil pan threads). Once I cleaned that and reset the learn with the brake stomps, it cleared the check engine light issue for the timing sensor code and the starts were better again. Shortly after though, once the car learned more the starts got longer it feels like. I wonder if it's running too rich for some reason, bad o2, leaky injector, bad coils, spark, or maybe some sort of intake leak before the MAF idk. Probably just leave it until it stops starting lol
@@jaxontanner9822 Yup. Actually turns out it was actually my crank angle sensor! After I had a cold start that took about 8 seconds of cranking, it finally threw a engine code for "crankshaft sensor under performance". Switched it out for a new one, and it starts perfectly like it should have before now. Hot or cold. The car actually drives smoother overall now too kinda crazy.
mine was rebuilt less than 4000 kms ago(2500 miles), and it's started to get longer to start, especially on hot starts I've also been getting some random p0335 ( crankshaft position sensor A circuit) car feels strong. if compression is great, I will get a 2 kw starter and better coils, because I am currently running those NPBoosted ls kit and tuned. Rad recommends the bennet coil kit. so I will be running those. you have given me hope that could be related to that.
@@christophersaa Yeah the code I was getting was P0336. I bought a new one on rockauto for not much. The sensor model I got was the HOLSTEIN 2CAM0243 in case you want to find one that works well. It's definitely worth a shot if you are getting a code for it since its fairly cheap for 40 bucks. Just make sure to reset the ECU learn with the 20 brake stomps on accessory mode (turn the key just before starting the car and stomp the pedal until the oil pressure gauge sweeps indicating it worked).
Been loving the videos on the yellow 8. I will say I am biased having a yellow one as well. Keep up with the content man. Hoping we end up crossing paths out on the road one of these days I’m out in the Midwest pretty much right at the border of Illinois and Indiana.
I also have a lightning yellow rx8 from 04 I’ve got 5% tint an exhaust it’s on black and yellow coilovers I’ve got black and yellow bucket seats with black and yellow 5 points after market brakes, ignition coils and spark plugs it’s starts every time both hot and cold it’s one of those cars you take care of it it’ll take care of you forever. Love the rx8’s
Looking at the figures in Bar that engine is still fairly healthy, high 5s low 6s isn't that bad, it would fail Mazda figures, however that was just a warranty replacement figure, it's an arbitrary number, they needed to set the line somewhere, I would be perfectly happy with even 6s mines probably on low 5s and will hot start reliably with an uprated starter.
I had the same issue but it’d happen at idle … hunted and hunted … my trans sensor I noticed had some wires touching and melted a bit … idk if that may be the issue or switches behind the clutch
I bought an 04 manual.Not running for 500$.I sprayed a bunch of blaster and carb clleaner down the brake hose to the intake.Starts and runs like yours.Never hasnt started.I have a hard time believing your car doesnt have 100 hp and launches that hard.
Quick question about the fuel trims. Does clearing DTC faults also reset the fuel trims? As I don't run a catalytic converter and get a CEL for it so I constantly clear them to get rid of the engine light but by doing this am I resetting my RX8's memory for the fuel table? Just want to make sure my RX8 is getting the most compression it can make as you said that the ECU has to learn how much fuel the car wants therefore running better.
Do you run an aftermarket oil cooler thermostat for the RX8? I've heard they can prolong the life of the engine by opening up much sooner than stock as apparently they did for emissions. But then I ask how can you burn off the extra carbon from premixing etc if the engine can't get hot enough. Thoughts on this?
I miss my R3 but at the same time I don’t. 🤷🏻♂️🙂 It amazed me how my tranny went before the engine did. The a/c was also giving up the ghost. I get some things will start to give after a certain amount of time or mileage. She barely had 105k km’s when I did get rid of her. With those issues getting worse. I commend you for driving a blown 8, but for someone who needs a fully working daily driver, I’m relieved I got rid of mine before my issues start to crop up. Hopefully the next owner will be able to fix those issues without it costing them an arm and a leg (which I seriously doubt). 🤷🏻♂️🙂
That car likely dislike ethanol .also make sure oil system work proper . Ethanol make wankel loose too much lubricity on wankel . These engine require more oil with ethanol gas
Always learn something useful in Mr Rad’s class. Thanks! My 8 spent the last 2 weeks on blocks in my barn. Commuting has been a slice of heaven on new coilovers, rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers, refinished rims, tires, BHR coils (thanks Charles!) plugs, clean MAF & throttle body, etc. Did it all myself thanks to YT and RAD Potential.
the gas cap holder is right there. you clip the metal bit inbetween the black plastic lip and the white piece inside
I’ve been driving an RX-8 for the last year and a half and never new this 😂 I’ll have to try that out just been gently laying the plastic side on the rear quarter
Rebuilt engine in mine lasted a whopping 48k miles. When I tore it apart the oil control rings had been doubled up during assembly. Don’t be surprised if, when you tear apart this one to rebuild, you find Caterpillar half-assed the build.
Neutral switch on the side of the transmission. There are two. The reverse switch and the neural switch. I can't remember which is which but one has 2 white connectors and the other has 2 black ones.
The hunting idle in gear is typically the neutral switch and can be verified with an OBD2 reader. Ot’s just a continuity switch so jumping/unjumping the two wiring connector tabs can verify. It’s on the LH side of the trans back near the shifter housing. I want to say it’s an odd 18mm size (might be larger like 22mm?, been a while) but a long socket with a slot in it for the wiring to pass through like an O2 sensor socket is the easiest way to swap it out in the chassis. Might have to loosen the trans/ppf bolts to let it drop down out of the tunnel cavity.
Also make sure ithe neutral sensor DOES NOT have a sealing washer between the sensor and the trans. It doesn’t have one from the factory, only some sealer on the threads, because it sits above the lube oil level. If someone mistakenly puts a sealing washer under it, the sensor tip will not engage the shifter shaft divot and it will cause the hunting idle in gear issue as well.
My S2 RX-8 gets 14mpg every time and uses a 1/2 quart of oil every fill up. But it runs like a champ. 95 psi compression at 114k miles. I’m thankful for how good it has been to me.
High fuel consumption could be caused by your ignition system
@@tuberculelapatate221it could be. But I replaced all ignition components with new oem parts last year. It’s probably just the way I drive.
my s2 is about the same as yours. i think im good to run it for a while at this compression
@@tylersmith7914 I agree. Should be good for another 30k miles pending some other major failure.
That oil consumption is WAY high, unless perhaps you only drive on the track.
If you have a 3d printer there is a gas cap holder out there. I'd be happy to send you a resin printed holder so it won't melt in the summer. Mine has been just fine for the last two years
My starts have been getting longer as well, but its wild to see how easy yours still starts just fine with a certified low compression rebuilt engine. Mine is rebuilt as well with like 11K miles on it now, but the last year or so its taken longer and longer to start hot and cold. Sometimes quicker than others. Very odd
It could be a million things, but one issue I found was that I had metal shavings stuck to the magnetic portion of the timing sensor (I think this was from when I was creating new threads for my stripped oil pan threads). Once I cleaned that and reset the learn with the brake stomps, it cleared the check engine light issue for the timing sensor code and the starts were better again. Shortly after though, once the car learned more the starts got longer it feels like. I wonder if it's running too rich for some reason, bad o2, leaky injector, bad coils, spark, or maybe some sort of intake leak before the MAF idk. Probably just leave it until it stops starting lol
@@IStratz you sound like you know your stuff, but is the ignition system in good condition, battery health up to snuff?
@@jaxontanner9822 Yup. Actually turns out it was actually my crank angle sensor! After I had a cold start that took about 8 seconds of cranking, it finally threw a engine code for "crankshaft sensor under performance". Switched it out for a new one, and it starts perfectly like it should have before now. Hot or cold. The car actually drives smoother overall now too kinda crazy.
mine was rebuilt less than 4000 kms ago(2500 miles), and it's started to get longer to start, especially on hot starts
I've also been getting some random p0335 ( crankshaft position sensor A circuit)
car feels strong. if compression is great, I will get a 2 kw starter and better coils, because I am currently running those NPBoosted ls kit and tuned. Rad recommends the bennet coil kit. so I will be running those. you have given me hope that could be related to that.
@@christophersaa Yeah the code I was getting was P0336. I bought a new one on rockauto for not much. The sensor model I got was the HOLSTEIN 2CAM0243 in case you want to find one that works well. It's definitely worth a shot if you are getting a code for it since its fairly cheap for 40 bucks. Just make sure to reset the ECU learn with the 20 brake stomps on accessory mode (turn the key just before starting the car and stomp the pedal until the oil pressure gauge sweeps indicating it worked).
Been loving the videos on the yellow 8. I will say I am biased having a yellow one as well. Keep up with the content man. Hoping we end up crossing paths out on the road one of these days I’m out in the Midwest pretty much right at the border of Illinois and Indiana.
I also have a lightning yellow rx8 from 04 I’ve got 5% tint an exhaust it’s on black and yellow coilovers I’ve got black and yellow bucket seats with black and yellow 5 points after market brakes, ignition coils and spark plugs it’s starts every time both hot and cold it’s one of those cars you take care of it it’ll take care of you forever. Love the rx8’s
Looking at the figures in Bar that engine is still fairly healthy, high 5s low 6s isn't that bad, it would fail Mazda figures, however that was just a warranty replacement figure, it's an arbitrary number, they needed to set the line somewhere, I would be perfectly happy with even 6s mines probably on low 5s and will hot start reliably with an uprated starter.
In the 5s, how much kilometers do you expect out of the engine? With good maintenance
I got 20,000 miles from an engine in the 5s before getting it rebuilt
@@paulvernon4160 That's pretty good even though performances might not be the greatest, enough to still enjoy the car.
I had the same issue but it’d happen at idle … hunted and hunted … my trans sensor I noticed had some wires touching and melted a bit … idk if that may be the issue or switches behind the clutch
There's a sensor on top of the gearbox and if it's not plugged in, the idle hunts like that
Honestly I love the rx8 slander 😂
Glad to see the channel get more views. And you can do this full time. Let's keep the brap alive.
I bought an 04 manual.Not running for 500$.I sprayed a bunch of blaster and carb clleaner down the brake hose to the intake.Starts and runs like yours.Never hasnt started.I have a hard time believing your car doesnt have 100 hp and launches that hard.
Do you rebuild the motors? Also do you know anything about the intake manifold runner code? Like p2008 or something. I will super thanks a dollar
Bennett Built sells a solution for the gas cap issue. But definitely a fail on Mazda's (Ford's) part for not including one in the first place.
My FC used to idle up like that too while in gear. Never could track it down, ended up going Haltech
Might be throttle body or crank position sensor
😂😂😂 I love your videos and some of your funny phrases make me crack up.
Quick question about the fuel trims. Does clearing DTC faults also reset the fuel trims? As I don't run a catalytic converter and get a CEL for it so I constantly clear them to get rid of the engine light but by doing this am I resetting my RX8's memory for the fuel table? Just want to make sure my RX8 is getting the most compression it can make as you said that the ECU has to learn how much fuel the car wants therefore running better.
Happy to see Letti enjoying the car!
actually sad cause it starts better than mine LMAOOO
Same
if you really like rotors, just rebuild it every 100k if it needs it....even if its a daily driver,that would go 7-10 yrs...longer if not
Hey man where’d you get your SOHN adapter? Just got my 8 and I’m struggling to find a SOHN
Do you run an aftermarket oil cooler thermostat for the RX8? I've heard they can prolong the life of the engine by opening up much sooner than stock as apparently they did for emissions. But then I ask how can you burn off the extra carbon from premixing etc if the engine can't get hot enough. Thoughts on this?
I miss my R3 but at the same time I don’t. 🤷🏻♂️🙂
It amazed me how my tranny went before the engine did. The a/c was also giving up the ghost. I get some things will start to give after a certain amount of time or mileage. She barely had 105k km’s when I did get rid of her. With those issues getting worse. I commend you for driving a blown 8, but for someone who needs a fully working daily driver, I’m relieved I got rid of mine before my issues start to crop up.
Hopefully the next owner will be able to fix those issues without it costing them an arm and a leg (which I seriously doubt). 🤷🏻♂️🙂
That car likely dislike ethanol .also make sure oil system work proper . Ethanol make wankel loose too much lubricity on wankel . These engine require more oil with ethanol gas
Hahah, fun video. Love my RX-8s!
@RAD Potential
Can u make a deflood video?. Thanks, love you.
Do the rotary gods like you or not determines how long it will run 😂
💯👍🏻
I was wondering how much longer this f***** would last.
I do not understand the point of these videos