That was a great video on troubleshooting a fridge with a ecb and inverter with a variable speed compressor , I used this information on a service call I had today to help on my service call! Thank you for filming this video and keep making videos they are really helpful for techs as well as everyone else.
Great troubleshooting...I changed both on my GE already.. These inverter frigdes need a surge protector on the 120v plug for protection from voltage surges..
The compressor replacement part is around $700. With labor, $1000+ makes sense. The problem at that point is that it it might just be a better idea to get a new refridgerator.
What would be the issue if the compressor starts for a few seconds and then kicks off? DC inverter 50-180V. Guessing that could also be either control board, inverter or compressor.
On the Frigidaire French door refrigerator I'm dealing with, the compressor pins all ohm out at 15. Do you know if that could be normal depending on the compressor?
If you buy your inverter boards and other parts from amazon, you can just return them if the part didn't fix the problem. Might have to put the repair off a few days, but at least you don't lose money buying parts you didn't need. Just make sure your parts match your model of fridge.
I have a bosh refrigerator that will run for about a minute when you first plug it in then it shuts off not just the compressor but the evaporator and the condenser fan as well would that be a bad inverter box or would that be the circuit board?
I’ve got a GE fridge with a WR55X11029 inverter. Compressor not kicking on. From everything i read and see, the control voltage input should be between 4-6VDC. Im getting an input of around 14vdc. Im assuming a motherboard problem but was curious to know if it should still run at 14v, and perhaps its the compressor. Ive already replaced the inverter with no change and i checked the compressor windings. The windings were a little high… 16 ohms rather than the 6.5 that you show here, but all three posts read the same What do you think could be the problem. By the way, this defect occurred after our recent hurricane and it was being run for several days off of a generator
Hi When running my compressor run hot to touch and the low pressure copper pipe not feel Cold. Does that mean Compressor is bad. Tiger Rosemead, California
Unfortunately I think one of my windings is open in the compressor because I am not reading any resistance values on one of the pins. But the compressor does make noise when it's plugged in. I've doubled triple checked my resistance testing and receive similar resistance values between the other two pens but it's that third pin that has zero. So I'm curious to know I guess why is the compressor still making a quiet sound?
When i read information about inverter compressors i always read that they never go off, but my winefridge has a inverter compressor (you can hear that it is changing in speed) but it also is energyzed by a relais. I have set the temperature setting at 13 gr C and when it hits 14 gr C you can hear the relais and then the compressor kicks in, when the temperature is back again at 13 the compressor goes off again, so in my case it is not ALWAYS running, the wine temperature btw is nicely between 12.5 and 13 gr C…. So i guess it’s a combination of the conventional way by using a relay but then a inverter compressor is used, do you know more about this?
My fridge in my RV stopped cooling. The condenser fan is not running, tested and has no continuity. The inverter has 120V going to it but no DC out. I'm in the process of removing the inverter to test the compressor ohms. You did mention the board sending the 12V I believe to the inverter that was located on the upper right side of your fridge shown in the video. Could this possibly be the issue?? Compressor to be determined. Thanks for any input.
My inverter has only 2.5v d.c. input control voltage. The compressor phase to phase voltage is 50v a.c. and phase to earth is 150v a.c. measuring on multimeter. The compressor input should be 220v 3 phase 40hz- 120hz on the label. Do you think the fault is the control board, inverter or compressor? The fridge freezer is not cooling at all.
Had one similar to this it was a Maytag not for sure if there the same but looks the same board was bad but it blew the fan motor and Compressor start relay i must have had a lightning hit it
After you have brazed the lines, put nitrogen into the system and let it hold for 1 hour. If the gauge needle didn't move even a centimeter then you know you do not have a leak. Release nitrogen then vacuum it, let vacuum sit for 30 minutes and watch the gauge needle again. You might book 2 sealed system work in 1 day doing this.
hey I am only getting 3v DC to the inverter board, freezer is struggling to stay at 0 degrees. seems like I am not getting a property signal to the inverter. do you think that is the case?
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Yeah previously it was the fan that blows on the coils (a few years ago I had to replace it, all good now) also the condenser has been cleaned. Wasn't too dirt due to me maintaining it at least one a year. I only suspect the controller board because the DC voltage is low. I ordered a new board and it will be here tomorrow. I will swap it out and see if that fixes the issue.
You said to see if you dont need a new control board " is to see if this guy is getting 120 volts" what guy??? What connection were you testing? Thank you in advance
Just changed out a main Control Board, Inverter and Compressor on a GE Monogram. Worked about 5 hours then died. Can hear the compressor attempting to turn over. Any ideas?
Not that I am aware of but I’m gonna do some research. You could buy a stand alone inverter and maybe test it that way after you have done an ohm check. Manually control the hertz from the control. Much like a Powerflex drive from AllenBradley could could do. Just for testing purpose.
@@dakotaf6049 usually these inverter compressors are able to be tested at a 120v speed by just hooking up 120v and neutral straight to the pins no need for any inverter. The inverter controls the speed and voltage but just to test the compressor 120v should be fine.
That is planned obsolescence for you. Rant to follow: If refrigerators would run for 20 years anymore, and I say that with an all original parts 1942 Philco in my house, $1,000 wouldn't be as bad knowing you will be set up for another 20. Keeping in mind that all you will ever have to do with enamel is a light clean and at worst wet sand, they literally don't make them like they used to. Given the fact that the sum of the parts involved should warrant these inverters to be 30 or so dollars retail, the over capitalization which drives the consumer between a rock and a hard place does amount to the overall higher cost. The guy who does the work also has to pay something approximate to three or four grand for his own refrigerator when it is time to replace. Consider that a transmission replacement in your car is going to start a $2,000 and move upwards while the car itself was once roughly $2,000. The problem here is that comparatively service would have never amounted to 1/3 of the price of the car, refrigerator, etc in times past. With the compressor ranging from $350 to $700, and if $700 believe that he will still be charging at least $700 for his day's work, and the inverter ranging from $150 to $300; this is at or above 10% of the cost of the refrigerator for a "base" model. I landed on this video because someone gave me a 2019 DOA that they got in an auction for a hundred bucks, while I have my reservations about handing someone a problem as a gift, they could have paid more for less and I could do with the extra refrigerator. I'm on the video here, a plumber myself, because I have isolated the problem to the inverter but wanted to double check. My personal cost in all of this will be $150 if it is the inverter box, and I will have to reassess if I'm going to have to purchase a compressor, install it myself, and then pay for someone to come out and rotate refrigerant. Even under that circumstance the cost will pale in comparison to a new model. If the market would only find agreement that we are less concerned with fragile accessories and more concerned with former reputations of durability, we would probably have less to balk at concerning refrigerators, appliances at large, and general consumer goods. As it stands people are lining up every November, but throughout the year as well, to place orders for goods they don't need or are out of their price range that have no expectation to last. As long as the American consumer behaves without rationale the market will definitely capitalize upon it and take our money over and over and over again. When the expectation is that you buy a new $3,000 refrigerator every 5 to 8 years, the expectation will also be that the service guy is going to cost $1,000 a day.
Dunno why they gotta make crap like this now....cant beat the plain old stuff...built in obsolescence is what I call it...all this nonsense about making them energy efficient is just filling pockets and the landfill
That was a great video on troubleshooting a fridge with a ecb and inverter with a variable speed compressor , I used this information on a service call I had today to help on my service call! Thank you for filming this video and keep making videos they are really helpful for techs as well as everyone else.
Best diagnostic video I have found. This was great! Thank you!
Great troubleshooting...I changed both on my GE already..
These inverter frigdes need a surge protector on the 120v plug for protection from voltage surges..
Thank you brother been looking thru few videos they all garbage even from parts companies ..Best educational video
Well put, thank you sir I was looking for a handrail for testing voltage and ohms In order to differentiate between inverter and compressor.
This was great! Thank you!
The compressor replacement part is around $700. With labor, $1000+ makes sense. The problem at that point is that it it might just be a better idea to get a new refridgerator.
What would be the issue if the compressor starts for a few seconds and then kicks off? DC inverter 50-180V. Guessing that could also be either control board, inverter or compressor.
On the Frigidaire French door refrigerator I'm dealing with, the compressor pins all ohm out at 15. Do you know if that could be normal depending on the compressor?
If you buy your inverter boards and other parts from amazon, you can just return them if the part didn't fix the problem. Might have to put the repair off a few days, but at least you don't lose money buying parts you didn't need. Just make sure your parts match your model of fridge.
Very helpful information
I have a bosh refrigerator that will run for about a minute when you first plug it in then it shuts off not just the compressor but the evaporator and the condenser fan as well would that be a bad inverter box or would that be the circuit board?
I’ve got a GE fridge with a WR55X11029 inverter. Compressor not kicking on. From everything i read and see, the control voltage input should be between 4-6VDC. Im getting an input of around 14vdc. Im assuming a motherboard problem but was curious to know if it should still run at 14v, and perhaps its the compressor.
Ive already replaced the inverter with no change and i checked the compressor windings. The windings were a little high… 16 ohms rather than the 6.5 that you show here, but all three posts read the same
What do you think could be the problem.
By the way, this defect occurred after our recent hurricane and it was being run for several days off of a generator
Hi
When running my compressor run hot to touch and the low pressure copper pipe not feel Cold. Does that mean Compressor is bad.
Tiger
Rosemead, California
Unfortunately I think one of my windings is open in the compressor because I am not reading any resistance values on one of the pins.
But the compressor does make noise when it's plugged in. I've doubled triple checked my resistance testing and receive similar resistance values between the other two pens but it's that third pin that has zero. So I'm curious to know I guess why is the compressor still making a quiet sound?
Thank you so much!!
Hi there , im not getting that 5 volt dc ? Invertor is bad ? Or the board?
When i read information about inverter compressors i always read that they never go off, but my winefridge has a inverter compressor (you can hear that it is changing in speed) but it also is energyzed by a relais. I have set the temperature setting at 13 gr C and when it hits 14 gr C you can hear the relais and then the compressor kicks in, when the temperature is back again at 13 the compressor goes off again, so in my case it is not ALWAYS running, the wine temperature btw is nicely between 12.5 and 13 gr C…. So i guess it’s a combination of the conventional way by using a relay but then a inverter compressor is used, do you know more about this?
My fridge in my RV stopped cooling. The condenser fan is not running, tested and has no continuity. The inverter has 120V going to it but no DC out. I'm in the process of removing the inverter to test the compressor ohms. You did mention the board sending the 12V I believe to the inverter that was located on the upper right side of your fridge shown in the video. Could this possibly be the issue?? Compressor to be determined. Thanks for any input.
UPDATE: Compressor is good. Reading 10 ohms across all sides.
My inverter has only 2.5v d.c. input control voltage. The compressor phase to phase voltage is 50v a.c. and phase to earth is 150v a.c. measuring on multimeter. The compressor input should be 220v 3 phase 40hz- 120hz on the label. Do you think the fault is the control board, inverter or compressor?
The fridge freezer is not cooling at all.
Great job!
Had one similar to this it was a Maytag not for sure if there the same but looks the same board was bad but it blew the fan motor and Compressor start relay i must have had a lightning hit it
After you have brazed the lines, put nitrogen into the system and let it hold for 1 hour. If the gauge needle didn't move even a centimeter then you know you do not have a leak. Release nitrogen then vacuum it, let vacuum sit for 30 minutes and watch the gauge needle again. You might book 2 sealed system work in 1 day doing this.
Hi when i check mine on DC show minus voltage there was 3 wires going back red,blue,green i checked on red-red black-blue (multimeter-wire) and ideas?
I tested a refrigerator compressor with the same system and got a reading of 00.00 when touching prongs. Does this mean the compressor is dead?
If both voltages are ok how is it the inverter? Thought the inverter made the 5V DC.
inverters convert DC to AC.
I have found, the newer they are, the worse they are! Last refrigerator lasted 3 years before first problem!
hey I am only getting 3v DC to the inverter board, freezer is struggling to stay at 0 degrees. seems like I am not getting a property signal to the inverter. do you think that is the case?
If your compressor is running you inverter is fine. Look into cleaning the condenser or issue with fans
@@BeardedApplianceRepair Yeah previously it was the fan that blows on the coils (a few years ago I had to replace it, all good now) also the condenser has been cleaned. Wasn't too dirt due to me maintaining it at least one a year. I only suspect the controller board because the DC voltage is low. I ordered a new board and it will be here tomorrow. I will swap it out and see if that fixes the issue.
What if my compressor is ohming out at 13 ohms? Frigidaire upright freezer
You said to see if you dont need a new control board " is to see if this guy is getting 120 volts" what guy??? What connection were you testing? Thank you in advance
Yeah, not very clear. The inverter getting mains supply from the control or main pcb.
Just changed out a main Control Board, Inverter and Compressor on a GE Monogram. Worked about 5 hours then died. Can hear the compressor attempting to turn over. Any ideas?
All fans running and lights on
Thanks brother
Is there no tester that we can put on the compressor so as to see that the compressor is not stuck or jammed ?
Yeah, a 120 volt extension cord with the correct terminal on the end should work.
Not that I am aware of but I’m gonna do some research. You could buy a stand alone inverter and maybe test it that way after you have done an ohm check. Manually control the hertz from the control. Much like a Powerflex drive from AllenBradley could could do. Just for testing purpose.
@@dakotaf6049 usually these inverter compressors are able to be tested at a 120v speed by just hooking up 120v and neutral straight to the pins no need for any inverter.
The inverter controls the speed and voltage but just to test the compressor 120v should be fine.
@@thebotlobbydaily not with the 3 phase compressors.
@@dakotaf6049 is it a y connected bldc poly phase compressor? Not even sure what we’re looking at here anymore it’s been months since I commented 😂
Couldn't you use a 3n1 start kit to test the compressor mechanically
No….you can’t use a 3 in 1 kit on a VRF compressor …it will destroy it
@@ike7933 Yup! Only with Split Phase!
Great information. Thank you very much
Paying $1000 for a compressor to be replaced!!! You'll be better off buying another refrigerator!!!
some freezers cost 10K and up.
I have found, the newer they are, the worse they are! Last refrigerator last 3 years before first problem!
That is planned obsolescence for you.
Rant to follow:
If refrigerators would run for 20 years anymore, and I say that with an all original parts 1942 Philco in my house, $1,000 wouldn't be as bad knowing you will be set up for another 20.
Keeping in mind that all you will ever have to do with enamel is a light clean and at worst wet sand, they literally don't make them like they used to.
Given the fact that the sum of the parts involved should warrant these inverters to be 30 or so dollars retail, the over capitalization which drives the consumer between a rock and a hard place does amount to the overall higher cost.
The guy who does the work also has to pay something approximate to three or four grand for his own refrigerator when it is time to replace.
Consider that a transmission replacement in your car is going to start a $2,000 and move upwards while the car itself was once roughly $2,000.
The problem here is that comparatively service would have never amounted to 1/3 of the price of the car, refrigerator, etc in times past.
With the compressor ranging from $350 to $700, and if $700 believe that he will still be charging at least $700 for his day's work, and the inverter ranging from $150 to $300; this is at or above 10% of the cost of the refrigerator for a "base" model.
I landed on this video because someone gave me a 2019 DOA that they got in an auction for a hundred bucks, while I have my reservations about handing someone a problem as a gift, they could have paid more for less and I could do with the extra refrigerator.
I'm on the video here, a plumber myself, because I have isolated the problem to the inverter but wanted to double check.
My personal cost in all of this will be $150 if it is the inverter box, and I will have to reassess if I'm going to have to purchase a compressor, install it myself, and then pay for someone to come out and rotate refrigerant.
Even under that circumstance the cost will pale in comparison to a new model.
If the market would only find agreement that we are less concerned with fragile accessories and more concerned with former reputations of durability, we would probably have less to balk at concerning refrigerators, appliances at large, and general consumer goods.
As it stands people are lining up every November, but throughout the year as well, to place orders for goods they don't need or are out of their price range that have no expectation to last.
As long as the American consumer behaves without rationale the market will definitely capitalize upon it and take our money over and over and over again.
When the expectation is that you buy a new $3,000 refrigerator every 5 to 8 years, the expectation will also be that the service guy is going to cost $1,000 a day.
nice!...information
Dunno why they gotta make crap like this now....cant beat the plain old stuff...built in obsolescence is what I call it...all this nonsense about making them energy efficient is just filling pockets and the landfill