I have absolutely no need of an expensive gun. I'm not ever going to paint an expensive show car. That $150.00 gun is all I need. Besides, all the expensive equipment isn't going to help you if you cut corners on the body prep and rush the job. Bad prep will show loudly through the greatest paint.
That is why most professionals refuse to spray cars that are prepped by the owner or someone else. They dont want to put their name of the bad prepwork of someone else. But for a pro or someone that is looking in to earning his money with is the 700$ is much better. The working time wil be reduced wich means the gun wil earn itself back over time since you can do more work in less time. Also a better spray pattern means nice coverage without doing a lot of work to it afterwards. Wich again is money in the pocket of the pro because less time spent on a job means more earnings.
I've used them on smaller projects with success. Gravity feed 12.99 gun. After painting my engine bay I simply threw it in the trash, it wasn't worth the time cleaning it!! haha
That's what I'm saying its just paint and a car why would anyone pay thousands of dollars for a paint job when some one can run into it a week later. That's what happen to me done all the hard work to make a some what show finish. Had it at the Grocery store and someone pushed a shopping cart into it on purpose. I had to work on to patch it up I could see it didn't match right to any one else wouldn't notice.
Dave your videos are the reason I Choose to be a painter and body repair man for that Thank You For inspiring me to follow this Career path Thank You from Arizona
I have been watching your videos for about 7 years now, and want say thank you brother.You definitely have helped close the gap between pro and diy+. Good to see you still enjoying your work and again thanks for your time and help.From San Diego California.👍
Dave, you are nothing short of awesome - and while you do reduce the gap between DIY and professionals, taking that fear away - it has also given me so much more appreciation for the trade, and how many variables one needs to control to do an awesome job. Thanks heaps - great video *looks at his 5 in 1 air spraying kit he found under the house*
Thanks to your videos i had the confidence to rebuild and custom paint my motorcycle after a bad crash. I did so well taking the time to prepare, sand repaint then polish I entered a show and shine competition and won the amateur class. Thanks from the UK you are what makes UA-cam great, I would love to go to one of your classes one day.
hey man. i am only just starting to look at what tools to get to do diy paintjobs for my motorcycle. just curious, when you say sand, do you use a powertool or manual sanding by hand? thanks
I painted my bike with a 12eur lidl spray gun. The paint looks absolutely great! I wouldn't say it's worse than 90% of the paint shops. Yes, in order to achieve good mist you have to reduce the volume of the paint quite a bit, and the spray pattern is small, so you would be painting much slower than the quality gun, but for a bike it's not much of an issue. On a bike you have smaller parts, no large flat areas and you wouldn't be painting for too long anyways. For large areas, like a hood, doors, etc it would be difficult to get no stripes.
@@mrmcbeardy9268 ya, yall get she short stick. Then again, what do you all expect from be Britain's criminal outcasts sent there to die yet flourished. 1 st itterally bought 2 paint guns due to the price. Each have different flow rates one with a regulator. Whopping $45 out the door for both.
Excellent video. I’m still blown away how well you guys paint upside down without everything flying away, though that must be a huge help with overspray. Kidding aside, I’ve been looking at a lot of spray guns and am leaning towards the 3m Accuspray system.
I have to second that response from CCB. You are the reason I am capable of pulling off top quality paint jobs from a rattle can. I am stepping up to a spray gun soon. Thank you for your efforts and time put into each one of your tutorials. And 👍 on being a car guy as well. Dig the Subaru! Thank you Dave - from Ohio in the United States.
@@christophermoody50 $150 Australian dollars even on our worst day and your best day has never been any worse than $50USD or so. At the moment it's closer to $85-$95 but it's very volatile at the moment
@@mister3722 If someone can't justify 50-85 bucks to buy a spray gun to paint your car, well I dont know what can i say. You'll spend more than 20 on body filler for God's sake.
Hey Dave. Your videos got me started in beginning to learn Custom Paint. I first your video on repairing curb rash on wheels with rattle cans. I did the job and it turned out pretty well. I enjoyed it so much that now I’m learning to airbrush and applying my own clear coat with a mini gun. Thanks for showing me that I could give it a go.
It's back to the old question is a great painter with a cheaper gun or a average painter with an expensive gun is there a difference and the answer is the Great painter will always win out. The tool may make the job go faster or less work but it's the skill of the painter that will make the job what is best.
Great review on both gun's spray quality. I like that you included the opinions of other professional painters and expressed their reviews of the quality of work. This is pretty much a no brainer result video. If it's someone who is a DIY in your own garage and don't care about the professional opinion, then the cheaper gun is the option, but if you are an established professional painter and care about your craftmanship, then the more expensive gun is the better option. Great vid!
Harbor Freight $20 spray gun is a cheap spray gun but can still produce an acceptable finish after cut and buff. The $150 gun will produce a better finish by laying down the paint and clear more evenly but cut and buff is still needed. The $700 spray gun is going to spray more evenly and therefore be faster and smoother to use but cut and buff is needed just as with the other two. After cut and buff the differences are very difficult if not impossible to detect. The quality of the product and skill of the painter with a gun he's comfortable with determine quality of the finished product more than the price of the spray gun, especially after cut and buff. I've produced better finishes with my $150 Atom X27 than my neighbor with his expensive Iwata or Devilbis mainly because I use better quality primer, base and clear and prep my panels better than he does. I do appreciate the video as it pretty much proves my point. Nicely done.
When you painted the first one, you got some paint dust on the second panel, which had time to cure while you were prepping to paint the other, thus affecting the paint job
Another quality video. Just brought some supplies from VG today. Did your course as well. I have learned so much from your videos. Thankyou. Keep them coming.
Hey man thanks for these videos, I get incredible value from them. I'm just a home project guy, so it's really important for me to know where to spend the money. I'm not in a production shop, so if I need to spend a couple of hours sanding and polishing that's no big deal, so my money is better spent on consumables, which is great to know. I've been watching for a couple of years now and love the channel, thanks!
great video! I love the part where you explained you can get a great finish from either setup if you're a skilled painter. I am by no means a pro But I have worked in auto body and learned a lot after painting my civic 3 times. I use a cheap atp 6900 series spray gun. I bought premium tech base napa paint and clear coat. I painted my crx yellow. I spent days repairing my front fenders and using guide coat. even had to reshape the body line and pound out dent's. When I was finished I had two fenders that were soooooo beautiful. the yellow is amazing and I can still see blemishes and need to sand and polish. But they look amazing. the rest of the car looks good and has paint on it now. I love using a 3m paint liner spray gun setup. so easy to clean.
Thanks so much for your channel. I did my first spray gun job after watching lot's of your tutorials and to tell the truth from being terrified of using a gun, now I love it. I'd only used rattle cans in the past. My paint job wasn't the best in the world but was so much better thanks to your instruction. Thanks again. David Sydney Oz
I was gonna make the comment myself, but you mentioned it yourself in the video with your little speech about variable between 4:25 and 5:00. The gun is more for the painter's comfort/preference than the finish. even with the better spray gun in a clean environment used by a pro, there will still likely be some minor issues that will need to be sanded and buffed out. And as a professional detailer myself, orange peel matching is another thing to keep in mind. It's sometimes better to have more orange peel in your finish and then knock it down slowly so it can match adjacent panels that haven't been repainted. Overall I agree with you 100%. The better gun is only about 5% of the factors in the finish. Technique and experience is %80 of it.
I've found that whatever gun you use requires you to adjust your technique accordingly to get the material to lay down properly the more expensive guns do seem to spray more consistently than cheaper ones but that is only noticeable on a higher productivity level.
Hi Dave, thanx for this video to explain some spraypainting-basics for the DIY-Guys out there. I'm a german Paint-Shop-Manager for automotive and industrial Paint-Jobs and i have to add some more informations to your Video seen through the eyes of a Pro. In my opinion it is a bit too easy to reduce the Quality of a finished Paintjob just to the price of the used Spraygun - especially when the job is carried out by a non-professional. If you earn your monthly income with this job you know that: way more important than the price of the used spraygun is: 1) the quality of the preparation work ! That's the point where the war is won ! You obviously know the difference of a Rotary-sanded primer-surface with 180 Grid and a surface that had been sanded with an orbital sander with 280 Grid. 2) you as a professional obviously know the difference (seen in the completely cured surface after 7 days) between a clear coat spayed on the surface with 4 to 5 bars using 20% solvent in the mix and a clear coat sprayed with 2.5 - 3 bars using no solvent at all. 3) also you as a professional should know about the difference of different Spraygun-Manufacturers: Devilbiss (as an example) has designed their guns in a way that they "lay" the coat of fresh laquer like a sheet on the surface that has to be painted, in the Opposit SATA (as another example) has designed their guns-nozzles to "hammer" the paints on the surface . . . What i want to say: there are a lot more things to mention discussing good quality Paint-Surfaces than only talking about the price of the gun . . . I would love to see a video of yours in which you talk about all of the above and how all of these tiny bits correlate with each other in order to create a perfect paintcoat in the end. Good results of professional Spraypainting is influenced by so many different bits and pieces - it's quite worth to show it on a much wider scale than just talking about the price of the gun used ! Best regards from Germany and always "Good Lack" on your way ("Lack" is the german word for 1- or 2-Component Paint, pronounced exactly the same like the english word "luck").
Great video. Have a hood to paint soon, in white! I have done some small spray can jobs on some older cars of mine. Quality of finish was as good as you can get with a rattle can. No one ever noticed, but were always easy colours. I have nothing to lose so I guess its off to get a cheap gun, and order the product.
I don't find many guns in that $150 range. The cheap ones are in the $50 range, while a good pressure gun, like a Binks, is around $400. It's easy to see the difference while your spraying, the wider fan pattern is obvious while you're laying it on. Everytime I've tried to spray as long as you did on a vertical panel, I've gotten runs. I would have positioned the fenders flat to help eliminate runs.
Awesome video! I appreciate the explanation and approval of both guns around the 5 minute mark. Sometimes, it doesn't make sense to spend the money on the better gun, but sometimes it does! It depends on the paint application/vehicle, and the project at hand, just as you stated. Excellent work. You've got a new scubscriber too now haha.
in my opinion you have a lot of things to consider to find a good results in spray painting, of course number one is preparation, calibration of paint,temaparature and etc.
Great video. Even now that I know the answer the panels still look indistinguishable but I'm not an expert and don't know what to look for. It would have been interesting if you zoomed in close and explained some of the small differences in the results.
I bought a $70 gun from super cheap auto, it is fine for my use. A proper clean after every use & 6 years later it's still working. I found that the compressor I was using, wasn't giving a constant pressure. I upgraded the compressor & that made a hell of a difference.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing! What about paint up from underneath something. What type of gun would you recommend for that type of situation. From my understanding these work best pointing downwards using gravity
In my opinion, you should also spray basecoat with both guns. With good quality clearcoat, you don't really need hyper expensive gun to spray it properly, but when you have some pearl or even silver metallic basecoat, there you can see the difference much more easily. With very cheap guns (about $20) sometimes it's even impossible to spray basecoat with good result.
Thanks for this. I'm planning on trying to paint my car on my garage if the local shops want too much money (6k+) so I'm researching what I need. Very informative. I'm leaning more towards the cheaper gun since this will be a one time thing.
I'm with you Clint. 6,500 bills to paint my wifey's Pilot. Ahem, NO!!!. Looks like I'm doing it myself as I've always wanted to. Kinda on my makeshift "Bucket List" Then I'll do my Truck.
Liked, subscribed and learned. I’m planning to respray a car (BMW E34 Touring) in original MaldivenBlau. It’s a metallic blue. Frustratingly I have already effed up the gloss black roof I did because I believed the spray can hype. So much time wasted. So disappointed with the results. Thanks for your efforts with the video, I’m looking forward to watching the rest now and learning much more.
@@Wikimikitiki a fair bit. I still use the cheap one for high build primers and that kind of thing. I've sprayed a few things with pearl with my 'expensive' gun and I can see it's shortcomings. For flat colours it works great
That was very interesting. I painted a couple fenders on my old winter beater just to get some practice. Used a $40 paint gun from princess auto and it turned out pretty good....for a beater and my first time but I really want a nice paint gun. I keep thinking about a Tekna with 3 tips and a couple caps for $700cdn? I dunno...I’m a retired mechanic and it’s been burned into my brain that I shouldn’t try to paint the car I been working on for 2yrs with a $40 spray gun or even a $150 gun. Like I said I dunno. I’m gonna sand and buff it for sure cause for some odd reason I love colour sanding and buffing. Very good video and was especially good to see the difference in spray patterns of the 2 guns.
I use to be an automotive painter (still paint from time to time). I would recommend the Tekna Pro Lite (or Pro), they are fantastic guns. I owned some of the most expensive guns from Sata & Iwata, but I just love my Devilbliss. They are easy to setup, easy to spray and don't cost an arm & a leg. The biggest consideration should be the quality of the paint. Valspar/House of Kolor are the easiest to spray and get great results. PPG Deltron line of paint or BASF/RM Diamont would be my second choices. There are other paints on the market (Axalta/Dupont) which cost just as much but they don't hold up. Any cheap line from the all of the manufactures (HOK doesn't have a cheap line) will only last a few years. Plus they are harder to get a good finish with those guns. Stay away from all water-borne paint unless you want to buy multiple expensive guns and have a facility to spray it in. This is why I quit painting professionally, I was about to have to buy a whole new set of spray guns and I didn't like spraying the water-borne paints.
Pro gun at a body shop..I use the Luma exodus and sun light and love it. I use different guns sometimes for base.. just fyi the 3m performance and accuspray guns are way over priced if you’re just doing some diy work.
Great video and I am all for having a go. I'm about to go with a 1.4mm tip Devilbliss FLG5 for base + clear and a 2.0mm tip on cheapo gun for primer. Just need to confirm the paint type I will use before buying. Thanks a lot - great videos.
Talking about cheap vs expensive how about the whole setup rather than just a gun. Would you always go with a compressor or do you think turbine HPLV is an option?
Spraying clear is the easiest part of the job and can be done with a $50 gun off amazon, but the basecoat can be a whole different story. If you are spraying pearls or heavy metallics, cheap spray guns can cause an unwanted texture effect in the basecoat that no amount of sanding and polishing on the clear will ever fix.
Very hard to tell a difference only doing one panle , spray a whole car you will find the cheaper guns don't break up the paint as much and you will get runs easyer... This however is a great video to show that it truly does boil down to how skilled you are as a painter .
I'm a furniture spray painter, I've painted furnitures for 2 years and i can say sometimes it depends how good is a painter to use a cheap spray gun and the paint will be perfect, but if you don't have a good experience you'll have difficulties.
With regard to the fan width and spray pattern, can different nozzles improve a cheap gun. Time is a killer of paint work for me, working in my garage in Tasmania. More time means more dust and the possibility of weather changes.
Bruce Askin hey mate try a fast clear. They can be sanded and buffed after just an hour. vgautopaints.com.au/collections/clear-coats/products/euroflash-clear-2k-ultra-fast-clearcoat
Hi, just wanna ask about the material steps you are applying: 1. base coat mix with paint 2. clear coat 3. another clear coat for 2 times Is it correct? Because my english isn't good so I don't really get what you said in video. Hope you could help. ❤️
I'd always prefer to pay for a pro job, but I simply can't afford to. Your videos, particularly the ones about using spray cans, have given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thanks for sharing your skill.
Perhaps you could give some more set up notes on the cheaper spray gun. I find that when people are reviewing spray guns, they forget their audience and neglect to give their set up on the gun. I have a DV1 Base coat gun. I'm not a fan. That shroud over the volume knob is crap. I took it off. It just prevents me from getting the gun clean. I normally shoot with a Tekna Prolite 1.3 nozzle and needle, air pressure at around 28 PSI or 2 BAR, Fan Pattern wide open, with the volume knob 8 full revolutions in. I start with a dust coat, flash, medium wet, flash, medium wet coat. For the DYI'ers at home, providing a set up on the cheaper gun would certainly help out. I have a Sata 5000 that never leaves my tool box. I have an Iwata Super Nova that never leaves my tool box. I have 4 Devilbiss Tekna Prolite guns and I can reproduce the same finish with each of them. I also have a Sata Minijet 1000 that I use exclusively for touch ups. It is old technology, but is unmatched performance for a mini gun.
Good to finally see a video that's not comparing a $10 gun vs $500 gun, but still there is a big gap between the two like $600 what about $75 vs $300 because most watching don't paint professionally and would care what a $700 gun can do. The title should have been Expensive Spray Gun vs Most Expensive Spray Gun.
I've been using a 30 quid spray gun from Machine Mart in UK, for over 10 years, and in that time have done about 14 resprays, and never had any quibbles. I tried an expensive De Vilbis gun once, and quite honestly, didn't see any noticable difference.
great vid, i have a question now... iam painting a bumper that i ordered from alibaba, my gun is a vapor 19000 $70 dollar special. the color is bmw black saphire, i can paint the base coat but should i just by 4 rattle cans of 2k clear from our local automotive supply store or clean out my vapor gun after shooting the black and spray the clear with it? it has a 1.4 nozzel. This will be my first attempt at a complete bumper and a m2 carbon fiber hood..
Mate with your skill you could get a good finish blowing it through a straw, a top pro gets excellent results with substandard gear while an amateur gets substandard results with excellent gear. Experience counts. Great vid, thanks.
Sir - love your video's - I get on a high when I get a nice finish with my middle of the road Taiwan HVLP spray gun - BTW had a lot of f-ups - but that's how you learn
Is it safe to say that a cheaper gun just requires more post-paint work to achieve a perfect finish? I'm looking into spraying my car but don't want to dump $1000 on a pro gun for at home use.
I sprayed at last 300 cars with a black widow. That's in about 4 months. 90% of that is car lot work. The biggest difference with an expensive gun is quality of life. My w400 bellaria is my main clear gun now because it sprays nice, but it's also extremely light.
In México sell an equal of a certain Brand equally cheap and before seeing your video I bought and the truth is that if it leaves some very good finishes I am the lighted with that gun! And your videos is very good!
Great video.I would like to see a similar comparison with basecoat.I think it's a little more difficult for premium results with metallics and pearls with cheaper gun.thank you
6:13 you can tell by how the lights is reflected on the panel if the light is blurry and has some orange peal than that was painted with the cheap gun because it doesn't let the product out nice and evenly even the paint will have a colour difference about 2- 5% vs the expensive gun that has 1% colour difference to the original factory paint even a small factor like temperature or pressure of the air can change the colour so don't worry there is no 100% paint job after a factory paint !
I picked the difference only because I thought the panel that was done with the cheaper gin looked a little less "polished" or a little more orange peel, although I could not pick the roughness on the screen, just a slightly less sharp reflection that I think would be mitigated with a light wet sand and polish Thanks for the video, as I'm after a cheap spray gun to paint a project car in the coming months, and this is perfect
Granted I am a hobbyist however I am a quality expert in the manufacturing and aviation industries. What I never see addressed is what exactly is it that makes a $700 gun different from a $150 gun? Is it the needles? Needle bore tolerances? Air caps and fluid nozzles? Frame material itself seems to be unimportant. Maybe if some of you Pros talk about these actual differences it would make for better educated painters and purchases.
Why would u use the same gun for base, wouldn’t u want to see how the metalics lay down with the cheap gun!!!??? Makes no sense, I understand the clear part, to see how the clear atomizes and lays down and to calculate how much orange peels ur gonna get but laying down metalics are as important
Great vid mate. I’m surprised at the amount of spray mist that appears to not land on the panels. Is that common of a trick of the lighting? What powered air system are you using? Looks wicked.
Good info man. Good to see the honesty. A good spray man can do good work with crap. The more expencive guns are nice but, not needed. Just practice. Nice work man.
Perhaps someone has already asked it, but is there a reason that you didn't paint the primer and colour coat with the cheaper gun as well for a true test? If you were on a budget then you wouldn't be able to choose to only paint the clear coat using a cheap gun. Not being critical, it's a genuine question.
Why would you just compare the clear coat results of the guns rather than just test the overall painting results? *Alan wouldn't you use the same air pressure the expensive one suggested "1.5 bar" when using the cheaper one?
Any gun in the hand of a pro will yield good results. I can get similar results with a cheap harbor freight gun vs. my Sata X5500. I’ve been painting for 22yrs. Where you’ll really notice the difference is in transfer efficiency
The area I live in the $150 gun is expensive & A $15 gun is cheap lol
Yep. EASTWOOD vs Harbor Frieght. Ill tae the harbor frieght one honestly. Paint will get f up overntime anyways
Same here
Right! 😂😂😂
yes same, in thailand expensive gun what can buy cost under 200$ and cheapen gun cost 40$ same shop.
@@brandoncaldwell95 most people wetsand anyway so no problem lol
I have absolutely no need of an expensive gun. I'm not ever going to paint an expensive show car. That $150.00 gun is all I need. Besides, all the expensive equipment isn't going to help you if you cut corners on the body prep and rush the job. Bad prep will show loudly through the greatest paint.
That is why most professionals refuse to spray cars that are prepped by the owner or someone else. They dont want to put their name of the bad prepwork of someone else.
But for a pro or someone that is looking in to earning his money with is the 700$ is much better. The working time wil be reduced wich means the gun wil earn itself back over time since you can do more work in less time. Also a better spray pattern means nice coverage without doing a lot of work to it afterwards. Wich again is money in the pocket of the pro because less time spent on a job means more earnings.
Me: *stares at $10 Harbor Freight spray gun in the garage* so where do you fall on the poor scale?
I've used them on smaller projects with success. Gravity feed 12.99 gun. After painting my engine bay I simply threw it in the trash, it wasn't worth the time cleaning it!! haha
Lol
I did a candy paint job on my motor cycle and threw it after as well came out good though I even sprayed flake. No problems.
Shh It's ok spray gun he's just saying your affordable
That's what I'm saying its just paint and a car why would anyone pay thousands of dollars for a paint job when some one can run into it a week later. That's what happen to me done all the hard work to make a some what show finish. Had it at the Grocery store and someone pushed a shopping cart into it on purpose. I had to work on to patch it up I could see it didn't match right to any one else wouldn't notice.
Dave your videos are the reason I Choose to be a painter and body repair man for that Thank You For inspiring me to follow this Career path Thank You from Arizona
CheifCrazyBuffalo that is absolutely awesome mate. Great work.
I have been watching your videos for about 7 years now, and want say thank you brother.You definitely have helped close the gap between pro and diy+. Good to see you still enjoying your work and again thanks for your time and help.From San Diego California.👍
Dave, you are nothing short of awesome - and while you do reduce the gap between DIY and professionals, taking that fear away - it has also given me so much more appreciation for the trade, and how many variables one needs to control to do an awesome job.
Thanks heaps - great video *looks at his 5 in 1 air spraying kit he found under the house*
Thanks to your videos i had the confidence to rebuild and custom paint my motorcycle after a bad crash. I did so well taking the time to prepare, sand repaint then polish I entered a show and shine competition and won the amateur class. Thanks from the UK you are what makes UA-cam great, I would love to go to one of your classes one day.
hey man. i am only just starting to look at what tools to get to do diy paintjobs for my motorcycle. just curious, when you say sand, do you use a powertool or manual sanding by hand? thanks
My favourite paint videos. The guy is pleasant, polite, cheerful yet very focused. Excellent
I painted my bike with a 12eur lidl spray gun. The paint looks absolutely great! I wouldn't say it's worse than 90% of the paint shops. Yes, in order to achieve good mist you have to reduce the volume of the paint quite a bit, and the spray pattern is small, so you would be painting much slower than the quality gun, but for a bike it's not much of an issue. On a bike you have smaller parts, no large flat areas and you wouldn't be painting for too long anyways. For large areas, like a hood, doors, etc it would be difficult to get no stripes.
I love the fact that your cheap gun is worth more than my entire spray set and part of the cost of my compressor XD
Right. Harbor frieght spray gun, and a compressor from an estate sale. Total, $150
wish we had Harbour Freight (and their prices) here in Australia...
@@mrmcbeardy9268 ya, yall get she short stick. Then again, what do you all expect from be Britain's criminal outcasts sent there to die yet flourished. 1 st itterally bought 2 paint guns due to the price. Each have different flow rates one with a regulator. Whopping $45 out the door for both.
@@brandoncaldwell95 is that English or hillbilly jibbly goop language
Excellent video. I’m still blown away how well you guys paint upside down without everything flying away, though that must be a huge help with overspray.
Kidding aside, I’ve been looking at a lot of spray guns and am leaning towards the 3m Accuspray system.
Agree 💯 regarding practice and technique is more important than expensive gear!
I paint in a garage where there is always going to be trash in the paint, so the cheap gun works just as good since ill have to sand and buff anyways.
Red1ineRR I’m with ya there mate👍
What kind/brand of paint do you guys use?
Keep the floor wetted down with a water hose, it makes a huge difference in keeping trash from blowing up and onto paint. 👍🏽
Same here.
Because of your skill and experience I am sure you can adjust no matter how limited the equipment is, to get great results.
I have to second that response from CCB. You are the reason I am capable of pulling off top quality paint jobs from a rattle can. I am stepping up to a spray gun soon. Thank you for your efforts and time put into each one of your tutorials. And 👍 on being a car guy as well. Dig the Subaru!
Thank you Dave - from Ohio in the United States.
I was thinking more like some 20$ vs expensive one :)
Totally agree. But if you are a pro, you have a different definition of a cheap gun.
Those are Australian dollars dude.
@@christophermoody50 $150 Australian dollars even on our worst day and your best day has never been any worse than $50USD or so. At the moment it's closer to $85-$95 but it's very volatile at the moment
@@mister3722 If someone can't justify 50-85 bucks to buy a spray gun to paint your car, well I dont know what can i say. You'll spend more than 20 on body filler for God's sake.
Same hahaha
the important thing is the man behind the gun...!
And you're so good dude...!
no matter which gun you used.... :)
prep and temp and robot.
Hey Dave. Your videos got me started in beginning to learn Custom Paint. I first your video on repairing curb rash on wheels with rattle cans. I did the job and it turned out pretty well. I enjoyed it so much that now I’m learning to airbrush and applying my own clear coat with a mini gun. Thanks for showing me that I could give it a go.
It's back to the old question is a great painter with a cheaper gun or a average painter with an expensive gun is there a difference and the answer is the Great painter will always win out. The tool may make the job go faster or less work but it's the skill of the painter that will make the job what is best.
Great review on both gun's spray quality. I like that you included the opinions of other professional painters and expressed their reviews of the quality of work. This is pretty much a no brainer result video. If it's someone who is a DIY in your own garage and don't care about the professional opinion, then the cheaper gun is the option, but if you are an established professional painter and care about your craftmanship, then the more expensive gun is the better option. Great vid!
Harbor Freight $20 spray gun is a cheap spray gun but can still produce an acceptable finish after cut and buff. The $150 gun will produce a better finish by laying down the paint and clear more evenly but cut and buff is still needed. The $700 spray gun is going to spray more evenly and therefore be faster and smoother to use but cut and buff is needed just as with the other two. After cut and buff the differences are very difficult if not impossible to detect. The quality of the product and skill of the painter with a gun he's comfortable with determine quality of the finished product more than the price of the spray gun, especially after cut and buff. I've produced better finishes with my $150 Atom X27 than my neighbor with his expensive Iwata or Devilbis mainly because I use better quality primer, base and clear and prep my panels better than he does. I do appreciate the video as it pretty much proves my point. Nicely done.
When you painted the first one, you got some paint dust on the second panel, which had time to cure while you were prepping to paint the other, thus affecting the paint job
Never sprayed in a booth have you ...?
Ben Harrell look closely, he is not spraying in a paint booth. More like a regular room
markman63 3:41 genius.... your answer is there lol So ? You love those $12 HF guns too ?? lol Now take your foot out of your mouth...
Another quality video. Just brought some supplies from VG today. Did your course as well. I have learned so much from your videos. Thankyou. Keep them coming.
Hey man thanks for these videos, I get incredible value from them. I'm just a home project guy, so it's really important for me to know where to spend the money. I'm not in a production shop, so if I need to spend a couple of hours sanding and polishing that's no big deal, so my money is better spent on consumables, which is great to know. I've been watching for a couple of years now and love the channel, thanks!
great video! I love the part where you explained you can get a great finish from either setup if you're a skilled painter. I am by no means a pro But I have worked in auto body and learned a lot after painting my civic 3 times. I use a cheap atp 6900 series spray gun. I bought premium tech base napa paint and clear coat. I painted my crx yellow. I spent days repairing my front fenders and using guide coat. even had to reshape the body line and pound out dent's. When I was finished I had two fenders that were soooooo beautiful. the yellow is amazing and I can still see blemishes and need to sand and polish. But they look amazing. the rest of the car looks good and has paint on it now. I love using a 3m paint liner spray gun setup. so easy to clean.
Thanks so much for your channel.
I did my first spray gun job after watching lot's of your tutorials and to tell the truth from being terrified of using a gun, now I love it. I'd only used rattle cans in the past.
My paint job wasn't the best in the world but was so much better thanks to your instruction.
Thanks again.
David Sydney Oz
Your an amazing individual and your main focus ever since releasing videos has been the same much love
Great video! What was the brand and model of the less expensive spray gun?
Dave, your videos are excellent! I have found them interesting and informative. Please keep up your great work!
I was gonna make the comment myself, but you mentioned it yourself in the video with your little speech about variable between 4:25 and 5:00. The gun is more for the painter's comfort/preference than the finish. even with the better spray gun in a clean environment used by a pro, there will still likely be some minor issues that will need to be sanded and buffed out. And as a professional detailer myself, orange peel matching is another thing to keep in mind. It's sometimes better to have more orange peel in your finish and then knock it down slowly so it can match adjacent panels that haven't been repainted.
Overall I agree with you 100%. The better gun is only about 5% of the factors in the finish. Technique and experience is %80 of it.
Great! This is definitely my "go to channel" on UA-cam regarding painting. Keep up the good work!
I've found that whatever gun you use requires you to adjust your technique accordingly to get the material to lay down properly the more expensive guns do seem to spray more consistently than cheaper ones but that is only noticeable on a higher productivity level.
Hi Dave, thanx for this video to explain some spraypainting-basics for the DIY-Guys out there. I'm a german Paint-Shop-Manager for automotive and industrial Paint-Jobs and i have to add some more informations to your Video seen through the eyes of a Pro. In my opinion it is a bit too easy to reduce the Quality of a finished Paintjob just to the price of the used Spraygun - especially when the job is carried out by a non-professional. If you earn your monthly income with this job you know that: way more important than the price of the used spraygun is:
1) the quality of the preparation work ! That's the point where the war is won ! You obviously know the difference of a Rotary-sanded primer-surface with 180 Grid and a surface that had been sanded with an orbital sander with 280 Grid.
2) you as a professional obviously know the difference (seen in the completely cured surface after 7 days) between a clear coat spayed on the surface with 4 to 5 bars using 20% solvent in the mix and a clear coat sprayed with 2.5 - 3 bars using no solvent at all.
3) also you as a professional should know about the difference of different Spraygun-Manufacturers: Devilbiss (as an example) has designed their guns in a way that they "lay" the coat of fresh laquer like a sheet on the surface that has to be painted, in the Opposit SATA (as another example) has designed their guns-nozzles to "hammer" the paints on the surface . . .
What i want to say: there are a lot more things to mention discussing good quality Paint-Surfaces than only talking about the price of the gun . . .
I would love to see a video of yours in which you talk about all of the above and how all of these tiny bits correlate with each other in order to create a perfect paintcoat in the end. Good results of professional Spraypainting is influenced by so many different bits and pieces - it's quite worth to show it on a much wider scale than just talking about the price of the gun used !
Best regards from Germany and always "Good Lack" on your way ("Lack" is the german word for 1- or 2-Component Paint, pronounced exactly the same like the english word "luck").
Great video. Have a hood to paint soon, in white! I have done some small spray can jobs on some older cars of mine. Quality of finish was as good as you can get with a rattle can. No one ever noticed, but were always easy colours. I have nothing to lose so I guess its off to get a cheap gun, and order the product.
I use a FLG5 for my BC/CC, ANI F160 for single stage, and ANi R150 for small items. DeVilbiss Starting Ling for primer and adhesion promoter.
I don't find many guns in that $150 range. The cheap ones are in the $50 range, while a good pressure gun, like a Binks, is around $400. It's easy to see the difference while your spraying, the wider fan pattern is obvious while you're laying it on. Everytime I've tried to spray as long as you did on a vertical panel, I've gotten runs. I would have positioned the fenders flat to help eliminate runs.
Awesome video! I appreciate the explanation and approval of both guns around the 5 minute mark. Sometimes, it doesn't make sense to spend the money on the better gun, but sometimes it does! It depends on the paint application/vehicle, and the project at hand, just as you stated.
Excellent work. You've got a new scubscriber too now haha.
Great Video and you even give FREE lessons, God Bless you.
in my opinion you have a lot of things to consider to find a good results in spray painting, of course number one is preparation, calibration of paint,temaparature and etc.
Just finished spraying my wheels with the 2Spray’s little brother minigun 😉👍🏻
Really great video. What spray gun is that cheap one? Any cheap one you would recommend?
Great video. Even now that I know the answer the panels still look indistinguishable but I'm not an expert and don't know what to look for. It would have been interesting if you zoomed in close and explained some of the small differences in the results.
I bought a $70 gun from super cheap auto, it is fine for my use.
A proper clean after every use & 6 years later it's still working.
I found that the compressor I was using, wasn't giving a constant pressure.
I upgraded the compressor & that made a hell of a difference.
What compressor did you upgrade to ?
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
What about paint up from underneath something. What type of gun would you recommend for that type of situation. From my understanding these work best pointing downwards using gravity
$150 stil expensive here. I use $20 spray gun..
In my opinion, you should also spray basecoat with both guns. With good quality clearcoat, you don't really need hyper expensive gun to spray it properly, but when you have some pearl or even silver metallic basecoat, there you can see the difference much more easily. With very cheap guns (about $20) sometimes it's even impossible to spray basecoat with good result.
Cheers pal great video, curtly respirating my freelander with my cheap gun and wondering if it’s worth the investment for a new one
Thanks for this. I'm planning on trying to paint my car on my garage if the local shops want too much money (6k+) so I'm researching what I need. Very informative. I'm leaning more towards the cheaper gun since this will be a one time thing.
I'm with you Clint. 6,500 bills to paint my wifey's Pilot. Ahem, NO!!!. Looks like I'm doing it myself as I've always wanted to. Kinda on my makeshift "Bucket List" Then I'll do my Truck.
Liked, subscribed and learned.
I’m planning to respray a car (BMW E34 Touring) in original MaldivenBlau. It’s a metallic blue.
Frustratingly I have already effed up the gloss black roof I did because I believed the spray can hype.
So much time wasted.
So disappointed with the results.
Thanks for your efforts with the video, I’m looking forward to watching the rest now and learning much more.
I just do stuff in my garage. I started with a $50 gun. Upgraded to a $250 gun. I did learn alot with the cheap gun
Did you find big difference between those two guns?
@@Wikimikitiki a fair bit. I still use the cheap one for high build primers and that kind of thing. I've sprayed a few things with pearl with my 'expensive' gun and I can see it's shortcomings. For flat colours it works great
@@zedex1314 thank you for sharing your experience.
@@Wikimikitiki that's alright. If you're learning a cheap gun is a good starting point
@@zedex1314 yes i'm learning
That was very interesting. I painted a couple fenders on my old winter beater just to get some practice. Used a $40 paint gun from princess auto and it turned out pretty good....for a beater and my first time but I really want a nice paint gun. I keep thinking about a Tekna with 3 tips and a couple caps for $700cdn? I dunno...I’m a retired mechanic and it’s been burned into my brain that I shouldn’t try to paint the car I been working on for 2yrs with a $40 spray gun or even a $150 gun. Like I said I dunno. I’m gonna sand and buff it for sure cause for some odd reason I love colour sanding and buffing. Very good video and was especially good to see the difference in spray patterns of the 2 guns.
I use to be an automotive painter (still paint from time to time). I would recommend the Tekna Pro Lite (or Pro), they are fantastic guns. I owned some of the most expensive guns from Sata & Iwata, but I just love my Devilbliss. They are easy to setup, easy to spray and don't cost an arm & a leg. The biggest consideration should be the quality of the paint. Valspar/House of Kolor are the easiest to spray and get great results. PPG Deltron line of paint or BASF/RM Diamont would be my second choices. There are other paints on the market (Axalta/Dupont) which cost just as much but they don't hold up. Any cheap line from the all of the manufactures (HOK doesn't have a cheap line) will only last a few years. Plus they are harder to get a good finish with those guns. Stay away from all water-borne paint unless you want to buy multiple expensive guns and have a facility to spray it in. This is why I quit painting professionally, I was about to have to buy a whole new set of spray guns and I didn't like spraying the water-borne paints.
Pro gun at a body shop..I use the Luma exodus and sun light and love it. I use different guns sometimes for base.. just fyi the 3m performance and accuspray guns are way over priced if you’re just doing some diy work.
Great video and I am all for having a go.
I'm about to go with a 1.4mm tip Devilbliss FLG5 for base + clear and a 2.0mm tip on cheapo gun for primer.
Just need to confirm the paint type I will use before buying.
Thanks a lot - great videos.
Talking about cheap vs expensive how about the whole setup rather than just a gun. Would you always go with a compressor or do you think turbine HPLV is an option?
Spraying clear is the easiest part of the job and can be done with a $50 gun off amazon, but the basecoat can be a whole different story. If you are spraying pearls or heavy metallics, cheap spray guns can cause an unwanted texture effect in the basecoat that no amount of sanding and polishing on the clear will ever fix.
Loved the video! In my first golf lesson the pro showed me it was not the club it was the golfer and technique.... Same here great job
Very hard to tell a difference only doing one panle , spray a whole car you will find the cheaper guns don't break up the paint as much and you will get runs easyer... This however is a great video to show that it truly does boil down to how skilled you are as a painter .
Good comparison,. What are the red &black charts in the background, labelled , Acrylic, 2K Clear over Base and 2K Solid? What is the breakdown?
fuzzypumper they are painted panels in different types of paint to show the different process and outcomes.
@@customspraymods Due to the overexposure and distance I cant quite the info on the both 2K posters. Are these posted somewhere else I see?
I like that black cup on the DV1. I wish that still made the colored metal cups like on my ancient Devilbiss Aces Wild gun.
I'm a furniture spray painter, I've painted furnitures for 2 years and i can say sometimes it depends how good is a painter to use a cheap spray gun and the paint will be perfect, but if you don't have a good experience you'll have difficulties.
What about the same test with the base coat? Probably be noticeable mottling?
I used a 12.99 gun from harbor freight on my engine compartment once and it came out beautiful.
With regard to the fan width and spray pattern, can different nozzles improve a cheap gun. Time is a killer of paint work for me, working in my garage in Tasmania. More time means more dust and the possibility of weather changes.
Bruce Askin hey mate try a fast clear. They can be sanded and buffed after just an hour. vgautopaints.com.au/collections/clear-coats/products/euroflash-clear-2k-ultra-fast-clearcoat
Hi, just wanna ask about the material steps you are applying:
1. base coat mix with paint
2. clear coat
3. another clear coat for 2 times
Is it correct?
Because my english isn't good so I don't really get what you said in video. Hope you could help. ❤️
I'm a carpainter apprentice, I use a veteran satajet 3000 from 2006 and it's absolutely great
I'd always prefer to pay for a pro job, but I simply can't afford to. Your videos, particularly the ones about using spray cans, have given me the confidence to have a go myself. Thanks for sharing your skill.
Right looks better to me, you can get decent results with gun prep goes a long way but the product being spray do help and so does skill
Perhaps you could give some more set up notes on the cheaper spray gun.
I find that when people are reviewing spray guns, they forget their audience and neglect to give their set up on the gun. I have a DV1 Base coat gun. I'm not a fan. That shroud over the volume knob is crap. I took it off. It just prevents me from getting the gun clean.
I normally shoot with a Tekna Prolite 1.3 nozzle and needle, air pressure at around 28 PSI or 2 BAR, Fan Pattern wide open, with the volume knob 8 full revolutions in. I start with a dust coat, flash, medium wet, flash, medium wet coat.
For the DYI'ers at home, providing a set up on the cheaper gun would certainly help out.
I have a Sata 5000 that never leaves my tool box. I have an Iwata Super Nova that never leaves my tool box. I have 4 Devilbiss Tekna Prolite guns and I can reproduce the same finish with each of them.
I also have a Sata Minijet 1000 that I use exclusively for touch ups. It is old technology, but is unmatched performance for a mini gun.
Good to finally see a video that's not comparing a $10 gun vs $500 gun, but still there is a big gap between the two like $600 what about $75 vs $300 because most watching don't paint professionally and would care what a $700 gun can do. The title should have been Expensive Spray Gun vs Most Expensive Spray Gun.
Straight to the point and love that you had the opinion of others, great video!
I've been using a 30 quid spray gun from Machine Mart in UK, for over 10 years, and in that time have done about 14 resprays, and never had any quibbles. I tried an expensive De Vilbis gun once, and quite honestly, didn't see any noticable difference.
great vid, i have a question now... iam painting a bumper that i ordered from alibaba, my gun is a vapor 19000 $70 dollar special. the color is bmw black saphire, i can paint the base coat but should i just by 4 rattle cans of 2k clear from our local automotive supply store or clean out my vapor gun after shooting the black and spray the clear with it? it has a 1.4 nozzel. This will be my first attempt at a complete bumper and a m2 carbon fiber hood..
Mate with your skill you could get a good finish blowing it through a straw, a top pro gets excellent results with substandard gear while an amateur gets substandard results with excellent gear. Experience counts. Great vid, thanks.
I saw the difference, but I been painting on and off for 15 - 20 years. I need to get me a devilbiss gun. They are fantastic.
Marco has a gun for 230 dollars that is just as good
Matco has a gun for $230 that is as good as a devilbliss
Thanks for this highly informative video. BTW your Speed Triple looks great!
Thanks for that👍
Sir - love your video's - I get on a high when I get a nice finish with my middle of the road Taiwan HVLP spray gun - BTW had a lot of f-ups - but that's how you learn
Is it safe to say that a cheaper gun just requires more post-paint work to achieve a perfect finish? I'm looking into spraying my car but don't want to dump $1000 on a pro gun for at home use.
I sprayed at last 300 cars with a black widow. That's in about 4 months. 90% of that is car lot work. The biggest difference with an expensive gun is quality of life. My w400 bellaria is my main clear gun now because it sprays nice, but it's also extremely light.
In México sell an equal of a certain Brand equally cheap and before seeing your video I bought and the truth is that if it leaves some very good finishes I am the lighted with that gun! And your videos is very good!
I think the difference is really obvious even in the video. The reflections on the right panel look a lot sharper
Great video.I would like to see a similar comparison with basecoat.I think it's a little more difficult for premium results with metallics and pearls with cheaper gun.thank you
6:13 you can tell by how the lights is reflected on the panel if the light is blurry and has some orange peal than that was painted with the cheap gun because it doesn't let the product out nice and evenly even the paint will have a colour difference about 2- 5% vs the expensive gun that has 1% colour difference to the original factory paint even a small factor like temperature or pressure of the air can change the colour so don't worry there is no 100% paint job after a factory paint !
U r careful n pay high attention on that part..So smart
thats awesome that u do lessons like that
I picked the difference only because I thought the panel that was done with the cheaper gin looked a little less "polished" or a little more orange peel, although I could not pick the roughness on the screen, just a slightly less sharp reflection that I think would be mitigated with a light wet sand and polish
Thanks for the video, as I'm after a cheap spray gun to paint a project car in the coming months, and this is perfect
Granted I am a hobbyist however I am a quality expert in the manufacturing and aviation industries. What I never see addressed is what exactly is it that makes a $700 gun different from a $150 gun? Is it the needles? Needle bore tolerances? Air caps and fluid nozzles? Frame material itself seems to be unimportant. Maybe if some of you Pros talk about these actual differences it would make for better educated painters and purchases.
I use a Devilbiss Pro Lite for base and clear does the job fine fans big. if I’m doing metallic waterbase il use a 1.2 set up and a 1.3 for clear.
this dude olnyl tells the truth,its not about the Gun its the one who use it.nice chanel bro thnk you.
Why would u use the same gun for base, wouldn’t u want to see how the metalics lay down with the cheap gun!!!??? Makes no sense, I understand the clear part, to see how the clear atomizes and lays down and to calculate how much orange peels ur gonna get but laying down metalics are as important
How do you know he didnt turn down the air volume/pressure on the second? I see lots of things wrong.
@Jeremy Hall, why would he do that? It would defeat the purpose of the video and he has nothing to gain from that.
Great vid mate. I’m surprised at the amount of spray mist that appears to not land on the panels. Is that common of a trick of the lighting? What powered air system are you using? Looks wicked.
THANK YOU FOR BEING A TEACHER FOR THE DIY PERSON ,THANKS AGAIN FROM MINNESOTA USA
Is the difference great enough that a proper correction can't make it disappear?
Good info man. Good to see the honesty. A good spray man can do good work with crap. The more expencive guns are nice but, not needed. Just practice. Nice work man.
Thanks for your videos. You really do fill the gap between pros and diy guys. Amd you do it quite humbly. Mahalo from hawaii
Perhaps someone has already asked it, but is there a reason that you didn't paint the primer and colour coat with the cheaper gun as well for a true test? If you were on a budget then you wouldn't be able to choose to only paint the clear coat using a cheap gun. Not being critical, it's a genuine question.
What is the minium air compressor hp, and tank size to spray a car in a decent amount of time? I'm struggling with this 3 gallon 1HP .
Hard to tell. Such a nice job on both!
Why would you just compare the clear coat results of the guns rather than just test the overall painting results?
*Alan wouldn't you use the same air pressure the expensive one suggested "1.5 bar" when using the cheaper one?
Thanks for this! im looking into moving from rattle cans to a spray gun and i am going to start with the cheaper one!
Yea if you pause at 6:04 you can see one panel is alot darker than the other. The cheap one the finish on it looks light than the more expensive one
Any gun in the hand of a pro will yield good results. I can get similar results with a cheap harbor freight gun vs. my Sata X5500. I’ve been painting for 22yrs. Where you’ll really notice the difference is in transfer efficiency
Do you think if the base was done with the cheap gun you'd see more of a difference, being metallic and all?