Hi Phil - spot priming. So important in my opinion, but you’d be amazed how many videos are out there that simply “brush” over this very quickly. No-one ever says if they are using a mist coat or something else. Can absolutely ruin a job if it’s not explained properly. It’s worth a video in itself!
Thanks appreciate you taking the time to make and share this, I hate decorating with a vengeance but pride myself on striving to get the best possible finish as a diyer, just got into spraying the woodwork and really enjoying that side of things, your videos on hvlp have been really helpful 👍
Well that's the best video I've ever seen of someone painting a wall, to be fair, it is the only video I've ever seen of someone painting a wall lol!😂😂 Keep up the great work Phil, love your videos!
Thanks Phil, just understood why I’m getting tramlines from dipping my roller fulling in the scuttle, cleaning down my roller another go tomorrow. First time diyer 😊
Could you please do a video of framing, I followed your advice I changed out Dulux vinyl Matt for Tikkurila this morning immediately noticed the difference on the ceiling, but still seeing flashing in areas not sure what causes it or how to rectify…. Any tips please
Loving these videos. Have you thought about a gopro type camera for some of your shots so we can see what your doing and you still have two hands free?
The 4 inch roller you talk about prevents you having to work wet edges mate 👌🏻🤷♂️ and feathering with a brush and is more time consuming than just running your roller across of which you don’t load 🤦♂️ happy to come and give you a lesson 👀🤷♂️ Plus you can roll those spot primed filled areas opposed to messing around with a brush. Plus… I’m pretty sure you’re using a 9inch roller not 12 🤦♂️
Hi Adam, the tools video is already in the pipe line..... but yes, these vids are coming shortly... The which paint to use is planned for next weekend.. give or take a day or two.
I wish I'd watched this *before* painting the wall, especially the bit about cutting in technique. My eyesight isn't as good as it used to be, which doesn't help, so I've just had to go round with a fitch brush and a head torch trying to make it right. I wouldn't be happy if I'd paid someone else, but it's just about acceptable considering it was me. I'm giving my self a bonus point for spot priming without being told, but I've run into a finish problem that I'd like to avoid in future - started in the back bedroom as practice, but got the whole house to go - and I'm wondering if you can help? I'm using Perfect Matt thinned about 10 - 15% and a short pile roller as recommended in your roller video. Everything was going OK, but the top coat has a few areas with what look like 1 - 2mm bubbles or bubble shaped raised areas, spaced anything from 1 to 5 cm apart. There are also a very few dotted around randomly on the good bits, which is most of it. These turned up as I was painting, but wouldn't roll or brush out, so I left them and carried on. The paint's about 5 hours into drying, and they're still there. Not especially noticeable as the Matt is very matt - you have to stand right next to the wall to see them, but they're bugging me. I can always sand them out (only a hand held Abranet loaded Mirka and a Henry for me, but it's still a nice piece of kit) and touch up, but I'd like to know how to avoid them in future. Only thing I can think of is contamination in the paint or on the wall, inadequate stirring on my part, or maybe Johnston's didn't shake it enough when I had it made up? Extra question! How noisy is that Mirka dust extraction system? I had a look at the Mirka sanders in Johnstone's and really, really want one. Well, all of them, come to think of it. Got a lot more than painting to do. Edit: If anyone's made it down this far, the Johnstone's Perfect Matt is expensive, but really forgiving paint. Even a noob like me can make a wall or ceiling look good. Yeah, I cut in the whole room first and got fat roller syndrome near the pretty much dry edges, but just brushed them out, and you can't tell. Probably be an issue with different paint, but I've watched the video now and know how it's meant to be done.
Looks like you've already answered this: "...when you put a cheaper paint under a better quality paint (like when you use F&B over contract matt) you can find you get air bubbles forming on the surface.. this is because the top coats (being wet) reactivate the underlying paint, that then makes that paint want to breath... its lets out the air into a surface that's not allowing it to expel the moisture/air in the paint... hence you get a reaction and little moons/bubbles forming and can dry as they are on the surface..." And that's just what I did. Used cheaper paint to cover the strong colours on the wall. Right. Won't be making that mistake again.
Hi. I don't use that paint so can't comment. What was the paint you were going over. Normally that's the issue when painting over a surface and air bubbles forming. Mirka.... Like a Vac and a sander on all at the same time. But needs must. The vac shuts off when you stop sanding with the Mirka though.
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Plain old consumer grade Dulux matt from B&Q, which is fair quality paint, but it was getting on a bit... Well, more than a bit. That'll learn me to cut corners. I was using it to size new lining paper over not very good plastering on one wall in the room - where it's performed without issue - but thought might as well save a few bob and use it to cover the old blue painted wall. The Johnstone's is in a light F&B colour (2008), and I should probably have used the same Johnstone's base white I used for the ceiling. Oh well. Still, the finish is so matt the bubbled areas are barely noticeable unless you're peering at the wall from two inches away. It'll do for a back bedroom, but I'd like to reach next level wall painting before I get to the living room. Thanks for the Mirka info. I wear ear defenders, but I like to get on with the neighbours. Auto shutoff sounds handy, but I think Wickes do one for a lot less money. So do Lidl on occasion, but I'm wary after watching your sprayer review.
Hey Phil! I noticed like me you don’t wash your skuttle instead let the paint dry in it before next use. But those paint skin bit are a nightmare which do tend to happen when leaving paint to dry in your skuttle. I’ve started washing the skuttle out completely now as it was getting annoying haha! Keep up the great work sir
Thanks. We have a number of paint roller buckets. Used in rotation so they dry hard. I find a clean roller bucket a bit of a nightmare until it a few layers of paint on it, as the surface can allow new paint to go brittle and peel off.... I've no idea how people who use bag liners go on.. as I find paint on the bag drys and flakes. We do strip out the buckets every so often. Brian who works for use uses one of the metal ones.. he allows it to dry with layers of paint.. then gets a heat lamp.on it to soften it up and burn it off. They weigh a lot with paint in... Particularly when you have years of paint build up too... But you won't knock it over lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks for the great response Phil! I might just have a little patience and let it build up a bit more or let it dry for longer before giving in and washing it! It’s fresh in the memory as was dealing with bits all day yesterday that’s all 🤪😂 Thanks again mate!
I thought spot priming was only done after the first coat goes on the walls? Whilst any filling done before the first can be sealed with something clear otherwise if done in the wall colour, especially if it’s a deeper shade, might flash through because it’s had more paint go over it
Your overalls are only on the bottom half, does that make them oversomes? You should use a tripod or a GoPro on your head when trying to show cutting in. I've been dunking my roller and then struggling with it being really heavy on one side trying to even it out on the side of the scuttle. What a wally. Now I know better, cheers.
great video again. we can only try & dream to be at your level. i would like to see how you would spray a vaulted ceiling as I have one coming up soon with led lights running along them so gonna use ar2
You mean a drop ceiling with the LED uplighters? Yep, follow me on InstaGram...BeckwithDecorators I've been doing a few of those these last few weeks/months on a Multi Million pound new build.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes not the sure the correct term. Its a slopped ceiling with led up lighters. . I iwill look on you're instragram page.
Great video I am glad you done it with a dark colour we could really see what u was explaining. I have been doing the little roller and getting banding!!! When u spot prime the filler do you Water down the paint? ❤
no, you don't need to. depends on the thickness o your paint though, you don't want to leave it looking like a brush full of thick paint on the filler.
My purdy clip on frame is spot on hasnt given up on me yet. I really enjoy your videos very interesting. Also is that a 9 inch sleeve I can't seem to find a 12 inch frame like what your using anywhere if you could point me in the right direction please 😊
you're correct.. it's 9".............................. I said it just in-case my wife was watching.... ;) I've a shorter Purdy roller pole.. it's gret, but never had a frame to go with it :(
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator haha love that comment about the wife 😉 Should give the frame a try there only £20. I've just brought a cheap sprayer the wagner 150m you got any tips for a newbie spraying? Can message me via Facebook if easier mate Paul magoo maguire 😊
Just got into spraying myself for lids.The 150 for me works at too high a pressure with the 515 tip.i was like a bullet spraying mully and the over spray was bad.consitency was OK with no tails.Save money and get an other machine.wagner 5000 is a good machine for trim
@@paulmaguire2592 feel free to PM me, if you get stuck....... you seen my airless spray vids yet? getting the right paint..... thickness, spray tip size... filter size and pressure................ all easy ;)
@@richardmcdonell3474 used my GXff for wash coating a small room today, ceiling and walls.... gold 514 tip, slightly thinned Tikkurila Optiva Primer... using a 15" extension bar.. (didn't use the clean shot for wash coating)...next to no over spray... about 2000psi. It was all controlled.... so I didn't end up looking like a snow man lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah I dont think making it into a trilogy would be worth it. Would be interesting to know how it did for your UA-cam channel as usually videos this long can kill a bit as it gets low watch rate and then UA-cam things it's not relevant
I think the target audience might not want to watch a long video if they're just trying to paint a wall might be better with a top 10 tips to be a pro painter. Tip 1 if you can fk you can paint lol
Jobs like that are few and far between these days, at least in my neck of the woods. A cowboy can only work to his untrained standard, but a professional can work to all standards , from a council lavatory to a palace! P&D is the profession that , out of all the trades, people think they know. Our profession is full of chancer's and counter jumpers as a result. They would be a liability on a real job.
LoL. It's all about getting a good finish sn't it. Just spot prime the filler with the paint it's being finished with. Problem surfaces prime the whole wall out with Zinsser Gardz.
Is Gardz fine for spot priming to avoid flashing (or just stick to using paint) ? The walls that I am painting will have a few patches of filler, the main paint is going to be two coats of scuffx (light greyish colour), I have a couple of spare tubs of matt trade white dulex emulsion, so does this seem to be the way forward, fill, spot prime with Gardz, one coat of white matt trade emulsion (water it down a bit?) then two coats of scuff x matt emulsion? The original colour in most rooms is magnolia, one room is a dark grey, or would the base white coat of white trade matt emulsion cause flashing with the scuffx?
you can use Gardz to spot prime filler, or spot prime over them with the paint you use... thinned a bit, if its a bit thick. I can't see the need to put a coat of white Vinyl Matt on first. use two coats of the ScuffX should be fine. My fear when you put a cheaper paint under a better quality paint (like when you use F&B over contract matt) you can find you get air bubbles forming on the surface.. this is because the top coats (being wet) reactivate the underlying paint, that then makes that paint want to breath... its lets out the air into a surface that's not allowing it to expel the moisture/air in the paint... hence you get a reaction and little moons/bubbles forming and can dry as they are on the surface... sometimes they can pull back... if you're lucky.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you, in four of the rooms, there is fresh plaster on just one wall in each room, rather than mist coating with cheaper emulsion, should I Gardz the fresh plaster, or use cheap emulsion trade matt white, or just mist coat with scuffx, to avoid issues?
sorry, jsut picked up on this.. have you sorted it? Ideally get some bare plaster primer.. Optiva Primer, or screwfix own brand... ease if needed. Gardz more for a problem surface, or one with filler and plaster patches etc.. or still with paste on etc etc. anything is better than nothing, so a wash coat of basic matt paint will be fine too ;)
I see how it feels at the time. Some paints need it more than other.bern using Benjamin Moore Ben this weekend... Video out next month... That needed nothing and went on very well.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks Phil i've been using Little greene matt emulsion and find it a bit sticky used neat, Seems to flow better when i add a splash of water! Great Vids Thanks
Phil your a Legend..!!😜 Keep the videos coming the years of experience your sharing is Unreal. I've honestly stopped watching the I-o painter. "You know who I mean"! Find your videos much more knowledgeable!! plus your humour's infectious! You actually make painting 👍 enjoyable 😁 I'm painting as long as You. But you keep bringing golden nuggets to your platform. Keep up the good work Phil. 👍
Thanks.... I owe you a pint for the kind words... Please share away.... I'm still after UA-cam funding that classic 911 I want lol Joking apart... When I taught at college it's what I'd be sharing to students.. this is just a new and better platform for me ;)
Phil, thanks for the video - just one question in regards to rolling while the cut-in's wet. If you've got a massive, long wall that needs cutting in, say a long hallway and stairs wall, how can you get to rolling while the cut-in's still wet if you've got such a large area to cover? sections? Will you not still get framing from where you ended and started again, if so? I'm not a pro by the way.
ideal if there's two of you.. one cuts in.. the other follows up rolling. if on your own.. make sure you feather out the cutting in... that will reduce fatty edges and framing... when you roll up close to the ceiling over the cutting in, you'll not be applying too much pressure and rolling ut the paint.. so not a lot will be left actually on the cutting in.. that way it will dry off nice. Saying all that, different colours can act differently to others.
I've had artex skimmed over on walls and ceilings and it's a really poor job so I've been on different forums to find out if I should fill the walls first and I got a lot of different answers but most where saying to coat the wall first in contract matt to show the marks so can you tell me why they would say that if I can see the marks on the wall that needs filling.
new plaster... give it a wash coat/mist coat first before filling. Use a bare plaster primer.. screwfix sell one quite cheap or Optiva Primer. They are better than cheap contract mat paints which are 'false opacity' paint.. if you wet it, it turns a grey colour and will wipe off. YOu fill after you wash coat, as its easier to apply to the surface as its been primed, it shows up imperfections easier too. once filled and dry, youcan sand it over. If you rub off any mist coat, re touch them over along with the bare filler, to prime that, before you put you rfinish top coats on. does that help?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I've already started filling the walls so god help me when I start painting and it shows up more imperfections. I was going to buy the screwfix primer but when I contacted the manufacturer they said it's contract matt but with the correct amount of water added for new plaster.
@@hardworker8030 was coat it before you get it filled. You see where need the filler a lot easier. And the filler will apply easier too on the paint... The bare plaster sucks out the moisture of the filler too quick making it hard to skim out.
Phil, just a quick question, I am going to order optiva 5 and the optiva tinted primer for the newly plastered walls, I can order direct from their website, I won't get a discount etc, but do you know anywhere else it can be ordered from that has colour matching available too.
Hi, I don't see any point tinting optiva primer, its a wash coat and two coats of the OPtiva 5 in the colour you get should be enough. Remember to spot prime any bare areas that you may sand off the wash coat. What colour Optiva5 are you going for?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it is a johnstone's colour called Waywards winds (grey with a hint of purple) , I called Tikkurila last week and they said it is a colour they they have matched before, next day delivery(excluding weekends) if ordered early enough in the day.
Oddly enough the house we recently bought, has a video on UA-cam ( ua-cam.com/video/KJcF4Qn_E3Y/v-deo.html) from when it was up for rent a couple of years ago, just thought it worth sending across for context of the work I am doing, all prep and painting to be done by me, mostly measured up on Saturday for working out the qty of required paints, we are painting the whole house, feature wall papers removed from all rooms, black entertainment cabinet removed from the living room, wall skimmed, all feature walls to be skimmed on Wednesday (paper removed, lots of crazing, I'm useless at putting up lining paper, just as cheap to skim the walls as opposed to pay someone to line them) , all living rooms, bedrooms, dining room ceilings Anti reflex 2, all non moisture room walls, Optivia 5 matt (wayward winds on all the walls, all sanded over 240 grit and all holes filled) , all wood work scuff x white satin (keyed up, two coats) , radiators to be painted, kitchen and bathroom perma white (white),new counter tops fitted, sink, hob etc, kitchen cabinets, key up, stix primer, then Benjamin Moore advance (2 coats, drying time a bit crazy but it is all good), brush and roller, not sure that I have enough time to get to grips with spraying, need to be in by 29th of this month, but Hall stairs and landing will be just prepped up (might do the woodwork and ceilings, subject to time) , then paint the walls after we move in, due to the walls no doubt been rubbed up against and marked with moving in day mayhem..
Looks a nice house. Should be straight forward to do. Why are you re skimming walls, it's a new build. Strip off wallpaper, clean the walls down/fill sand etc... Coat of Gardz will save time and money. ScuffX, I've tested that.. video should be out this week. It very good ,but not cheap.. looks like you have a lot of woodwork to coat up. A cheaper option would be bedec MSP, that's a solid paint, nice to apply too.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you Phil, true the sanding down might be the best way forward, that is what I did in the kitchen, it came up pretty good, the thing that put me off a bit, was it took me quite a long time to do, plus all the dust, but I have since bought a dust less mirka hand sander, which I've been using to sand down the walls, as there was a fair amount of brush strokes from previous poor quality painting of the walls, now they are nice and smooth, only thing the plasterer is booked in for Wednesday, so I might have to live with the cost, it's £180 for the three walls, so it's not too drastic cost wise, I signed up to Brewers for the 20 percent discount code, so it brings the price down on the cost of the stix, bm advance and the Scuff x.
can't beat a pure bristle brush tried all the expensive synthetics real bristle still king, sheepskin rollers also still the best tried all the polyaimide ones microfibre etc so much less splatter with sheepskin and holds more paint,
Sheepskin leaves too much texture on the surface when you have plain smooth walls. Fine on textured artex or woodchip or blown vinyl papers. With some darker colours flockulation is also more prevalent when using longer pile rollers. I couldn't now go back to pure bristle for waterbased and cutting in. Not enough control to get sharp cutting in. Have you tried tye eco union 3" for cutting in? Their 2½ and 4" are very nice to use.
😂😂😂😂 Your obsession of getting your face in is so funny... Youre focusing in on the paint work and all we can see is your face 😂😂😂 get outta the way!!!
Mate, you call yourself a 'professional' & talk up your job endlessly yet you use crappy ready made filler which will get dried up chunks in it & make it a pain to fill anything. You use a second rate brush & your paint scuttle doesn't even get bloody washed between jobs! You may do it for a living but you're a long way from being what i'd call a pro decorator.
What filler do you use and brushes, what experience have you had with the Presto filler? My paint scuttle doesn't need washing out after each job.. I have more than one in the go. The problems when you clean then out after use is you'll find paint comes away off the plastic sides when it starts drying off. Nothing more satisfying than peeling out old paint from plastic buckets etc. The old metal style roller scuttle you use a heat gun, or blow torches and warm the outside of it, then it starts to soften and you can peel it out with the help of a putty knife or a 1" or a 2" scraper. Then seal it with some knotting before use. ;)
I use a filler I freshly mix so as to not get the dried crust of old filler dragging through as I fill leaving tram lines ( you can have that Pro tip on me). I use Purdy brushes for water based paint ( as they are the best) & don't make excuses for using a filthy scuttle & pretend that it peels off leaving a clean scuttle (make a video of that mate!).Lastly, use clean filler knives too! Hope you've learnt something. I'm 'next level' pal! :)
@@GreenSaxon the purdys are good, I've got the ProExtra (blue bristle ones of those, never liked the monarch ones). If you've not tried the Presto F tub filler, try it. It doesn't dry out like you mention.. just make sure you don't leave it on the sides. Less waste than mixing up powder filler and the big thing it doesn't flash when painting over it like Polly fillers/powder fillers etc.
Hi Phil - spot priming. So important in my opinion, but you’d be amazed how many videos are out there that simply “brush” over this very quickly. No-one ever says if they are using a mist coat or something else. Can absolutely ruin a job if it’s not explained properly. It’s worth a video in itself!
Great suggestion!
I dont just hit the like thumb phil, i also save your videos. Excellent tradesman . Thank you Phil .
That's great to hear. Share and share though ;)
...Saturday tea time tutorial, again, thanks...can always repeat your tutorial👍
Got to be the best video on UA-cam for explanation thanks.
The cheque is in the post, tnx.
Please share..... LoL
Very professional, and well explained will help a lot of DIYers out
It's a lot of info in one video.
Thanks appreciate you taking the time to make and share this, I hate decorating with a vengeance but pride myself on striving to get the best possible finish as a diyer, just got into spraying the woodwork and really enjoying that side of things, your videos on hvlp have been really helpful 👍
Thanks. I know that video is a long one . But a lot of info in there.
Well that's the best video I've ever seen of someone painting a wall, to be fair, it is the only video I've ever seen of someone painting a wall lol!😂😂 Keep up the great work Phil, love your videos!
Thank you so much 😀 all 53minutes of it... loads of info in it though lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yup watched the lot, not all hero’s were capes!🤣
Learned a lot thanks so much and you crack me up with your humour
Thanks ;) Sorry it was a long one, but a lot of info to get across. But 53 mins is quicker than the 4 yrs I was at College I spoze lol
Thanks Phil, just understood why I’m getting tramlines from dipping my roller fulling in the scuttle, cleaning down my roller another go tomorrow.
First time diyer 😊
Glad to help
Could you please do a video of framing, I followed your advice I changed out Dulux vinyl Matt for Tikkurila this morning immediately noticed the difference on the ceiling, but still seeing flashing in areas not sure what causes it or how to rectify…. Any tips please
Think this one would be good for me going to be painting my shed soon and that stuff isn't too thick 👍
I've videos showing shed painting :)
Good detail and info that’s what I like from your vids
I appreciate that!
Brilliant explanation thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
1st class 👍👍
Many many thanks
Loving these videos. Have you thought about a gopro type camera for some of your shots so we can see what your doing and you still have two hands free?
Maybe one day!
David Brent does painting
Is that good or bad lol
The 4 inch roller you talk about prevents you having to work wet edges mate 👌🏻🤷♂️ and feathering with a brush and is more time consuming than just running your roller across of which you don’t load 🤦♂️ happy to come and give you a lesson 👀🤷♂️
Plus you can roll those spot primed filled areas opposed to messing around with a brush. Plus… I’m pretty sure you’re using a 9inch roller not 12 🤦♂️
Good to know!
We got taught the same on out city & guilds L2. Mini roller really makes a difference imho.
Nice job mate learn a lot from your video
sorry it was so long, but a lot of info to get across and explain that you can't do in 1o minutes. :)
great video, can you make a video about the best material and Tools . please
Hi Adam, the tools video is already in the pipe line..... but yes, these vids are coming shortly...
The which paint to use is planned for next weekend.. give or take a day or two.
I wish I'd watched this *before* painting the wall, especially the bit about cutting in technique. My eyesight isn't as good as it used to be, which doesn't help, so I've just had to go round with a fitch brush and a head torch trying to make it right. I wouldn't be happy if I'd paid someone else, but it's just about acceptable considering it was me. I'm giving my self a bonus point for spot priming without being told, but I've run into a finish problem that I'd like to avoid in future - started in the back bedroom as practice, but got the whole house to go - and I'm wondering if you can help?
I'm using Perfect Matt thinned about 10 - 15% and a short pile roller as recommended in your roller video. Everything was going OK, but the top coat has a few areas with what look like 1 - 2mm bubbles or bubble shaped raised areas, spaced anything from 1 to 5 cm apart. There are also a very few dotted around randomly on the good bits, which is most of it. These turned up as I was painting, but wouldn't roll or brush out, so I left them and carried on. The paint's about 5 hours into drying, and they're still there. Not especially noticeable as the Matt is very matt - you have to stand right next to the wall to see them, but they're bugging me. I can always sand them out (only a hand held Abranet loaded Mirka and a Henry for me, but it's still a nice piece of kit) and touch up, but I'd like to know how to avoid them in future. Only thing I can think of is contamination in the paint or on the wall, inadequate stirring on my part, or maybe Johnston's didn't shake it enough when I had it made up?
Extra question! How noisy is that Mirka dust extraction system? I had a look at the Mirka sanders in Johnstone's and really, really want one. Well, all of them, come to think of it. Got a lot more than painting to do.
Edit: If anyone's made it down this far, the Johnstone's Perfect Matt is expensive, but really forgiving paint. Even a noob like me can make a wall or ceiling look good. Yeah, I cut in the whole room first and got fat roller syndrome near the pretty much dry edges, but just brushed them out, and you can't tell. Probably be an issue with different paint, but I've watched the video now and know how it's meant to be done.
Looks like you've already answered this:
"...when you put a cheaper paint under a better quality paint (like when you use F&B over contract matt) you can find you get air bubbles forming on the surface.. this is because the top coats (being wet) reactivate the underlying paint, that then makes that paint want to breath... its lets out the air into a surface that's not allowing it to expel the moisture/air in the paint... hence you get a reaction and little moons/bubbles forming and can dry as they are on the surface..."
And that's just what I did. Used cheaper paint to cover the strong colours on the wall. Right. Won't be making that mistake again.
Hi.
I don't use that paint so can't comment.
What was the paint you were going over. Normally that's the issue when painting over a surface and air bubbles forming.
Mirka.... Like a Vac and a sander on all at the same time.
But needs must.
The vac shuts off when you stop sanding with the Mirka though.
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Plain old consumer grade Dulux matt from B&Q, which is fair quality paint, but it was getting on a bit... Well, more than a bit. That'll learn me to cut corners. I was using it to size new lining paper over not very good plastering on one wall in the room - where it's performed without issue - but thought might as well save a few bob and use it to cover the old blue painted wall. The Johnstone's is in a light F&B colour (2008), and I should probably have used the same Johnstone's base white I used for the ceiling. Oh well.
Still, the finish is so matt the bubbled areas are barely noticeable unless you're peering at the wall from two inches away. It'll do for a back bedroom, but I'd like to reach next level wall painting before I get to the living room.
Thanks for the Mirka info. I wear ear defenders, but I like to get on with the neighbours. Auto shutoff sounds handy, but I think Wickes do one for a lot less money. So do Lidl on occasion, but I'm wary after watching your sprayer review.
Hey Phil! I noticed like me you don’t wash your skuttle instead let the paint dry in it before next use. But those paint skin bit are a nightmare which do tend to happen when leaving paint to dry in your skuttle. I’ve started washing the skuttle out completely now as it was getting annoying haha! Keep up the great work sir
Thanks.
We have a number of paint roller buckets. Used in rotation so they dry hard.
I find a clean roller bucket a bit of a nightmare until it a few layers of paint on it, as the surface can allow new paint to go brittle and peel off.... I've no idea how people who use bag liners go on.. as I find paint on the bag drys and flakes.
We do strip out the buckets every so often.
Brian who works for use uses one of the metal ones.. he allows it to dry with layers of paint.. then gets a heat lamp.on it to soften it up and burn it off.
They weigh a lot with paint in... Particularly when you have years of paint build up too... But you won't knock it over lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks for the great response Phil! I might just have a little patience and let it build up a bit more or let it dry for longer before giving in and washing it! It’s fresh in the memory as was dealing with bits all day yesterday that’s all 🤪😂 Thanks again mate!
I thought spot priming was only done after the first coat goes on the walls? Whilst any filling done before the first can be sealed with something clear otherwise if done in the wall colour, especially if it’s a deeper shade, might flash through because it’s had more paint go over it
No. Just touching over with the paint you're using is fine. Stops the next coat soaking in.
Great advice. Could blend sides in with a mini roller then you can use 12inch on 18inch
No need to use mini roller on the sides as the single are 9" roller gets as close into the sides.
Your overalls are only on the bottom half, does that make them oversomes? You should use a tripod or a GoPro on your head when trying to show cutting in. I've been dunking my roller and then struggling with it being really heavy on one side trying to even it out on the side of the scuttle. What a wally. Now I know better, cheers.
great video again. we can only try & dream to be at your level. i would like to see how you would spray a vaulted ceiling as I have one coming up soon with led lights running along them so gonna use ar2
You mean a drop ceiling with the LED uplighters?
Yep, follow me on InstaGram...BeckwithDecorators I've been doing a few of those these last few weeks/months on a Multi Million pound new build.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes not the sure the correct term. Its a slopped ceiling with led up lighters. . I iwill look on you're instragram page.
9 inch roller fgs... And getting 2 batches of paint mixed for 1 job? Surely that's asking for trouble
Great video I am glad you done it with a dark colour we could really see what u was explaining. I have been doing the little roller and getting banding!!! When u spot prime the filler do you Water down the paint? ❤
no, you don't need to. depends on the thickness o your paint though, you don't want to leave it looking like a brush full of thick paint on the filler.
Great video 👌👌
Thank you 👍
No expense spared
Proceeds to match farrow and ball into a cheaper brand 😂
Tikkurila Optiva 3&5, aren't cheap paints.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I know buddy I’m messing with ya Phillip
My purdy clip on frame is spot on hasnt given up on me yet.
I really enjoy your videos very interesting.
Also is that a 9 inch sleeve I can't seem to find a 12 inch frame like what your using anywhere if you could point me in the right direction please 😊
you're correct.. it's 9".............................. I said it just in-case my wife was watching.... ;)
I've a shorter Purdy roller pole.. it's gret, but never had a frame to go with it :(
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator haha love that comment about the wife 😉
Should give the frame a try there only £20.
I've just brought a cheap sprayer the wagner 150m you got any tips for a newbie spraying?
Can message me via Facebook if easier mate
Paul magoo maguire 😊
Just got into spraying myself for lids.The 150 for me works at too high a pressure with the 515 tip.i was like a bullet spraying mully and the over spray was bad.consitency was OK with no tails.Save money and get an other machine.wagner 5000 is a good machine for trim
@@paulmaguire2592 feel free to PM me, if you get stuck....... you seen my airless spray vids yet?
getting the right paint..... thickness, spray tip size... filter size and pressure................ all easy ;)
@@richardmcdonell3474 used my GXff for wash coating a small room today, ceiling and walls.... gold 514 tip, slightly thinned Tikkurila Optiva Primer... using a 15" extension bar.. (didn't use the clean shot for wash coating)...next to no over spray... about 2000psi. It was all controlled.... so I didn't end up looking like a snow man lol
Great video!
you watched it all Sam?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I got through part of it and will finish watching all of it, but wanted to offer support but liking and commenting
@@samrix5793 it's in sections so you can pick up where you left off..... I though that was better than doing Part 1 and Part 2 etc.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah I dont think making it into a trilogy would be worth it. Would be interesting to know how it did for your UA-cam channel as usually videos this long can kill a bit as it gets low watch rate and then UA-cam things it's not relevant
I think the target audience might not want to watch a long video if they're just trying to paint a wall might be better with a top 10 tips to be a pro painter. Tip 1 if you can fk you can paint lol
Good video. Have you tried the Arroworthy Rembrandt slanted brush? It will literally cut itself in.
Yes. I've the slant classic arroworthy brushes as well. :)
Jobs like that are few and far between these days, at least in my neck of the woods. A cowboy can only work to his untrained standard, but a professional can work to all standards , from a council lavatory to a palace! P&D is the profession that , out of all the trades, people think they know. Our profession is full of chancer's and counter jumpers as a result. They would be a liability on a real job.
You make a very valid point Paul.
Love your work!!
Your as ocd as me and it’s great to see!
What spot primer are you using mate
LoL. It's all about getting a good finish sn't it.
Just spot prime the filler with the paint it's being finished with.
Problem surfaces prime the whole wall out with Zinsser Gardz.
See with doing the Farrow and Ball match, is that down to just cost or do you find F&B more awkward to work with?
they didn't want to pay F&B, but wanted f&B colours... which we said will be a near match in Tikkurila.
Any links for the roller and pole ??
Axus are the roller sleeves (it's a grey band through it)
Roller pole is Purdy
Is Gardz fine for spot priming to avoid flashing (or just stick to using paint) ? The walls that I am painting will have a few patches of filler, the main paint is going to be two coats of scuffx (light greyish colour), I have a couple of spare tubs of matt trade white dulex emulsion, so does this seem to be the way forward, fill, spot prime with Gardz, one coat of white matt trade emulsion (water it down a bit?) then two coats of scuff x matt emulsion? The original colour in most rooms is magnolia, one room is a dark grey, or would the base white coat of white trade matt emulsion cause flashing with the scuffx?
you can use Gardz to spot prime filler, or spot prime over them with the paint you use... thinned a bit, if its a bit thick.
I can't see the need to put a coat of white Vinyl Matt on first. use two coats of the ScuffX should be fine.
My fear when you put a cheaper paint under a better quality paint (like when you use F&B over contract matt) you can find you get air bubbles forming on the surface.. this is because the top coats (being wet) reactivate the underlying paint, that then makes that paint want to breath... its lets out the air into a surface that's not allowing it to expel the moisture/air in the paint... hence you get a reaction and little moons/bubbles forming and can dry as they are on the surface... sometimes they can pull back... if you're lucky.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you, in four of the rooms, there is fresh plaster on just one wall in each room, rather than mist coating with cheaper emulsion, should I Gardz the fresh plaster, or use cheap emulsion trade matt white, or just mist coat with scuffx, to avoid issues?
sorry, jsut picked up on this.. have you sorted it?
Ideally get some bare plaster primer.. Optiva Primer, or screwfix own brand... ease if needed.
Gardz more for a problem surface, or one with filler and plaster patches etc.. or still with paste on etc etc.
anything is better than nothing, so a wash coat of basic matt paint will be fine too ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator cheers Phil, thank you for your reply and all the wonderful help and advice.
Did you use a mirka?
Yes. Lots of times.
hi can u tell me were do oder your mask film ,,,on line ,web
A search to see who has the best deal ;)
super man
Thank you
Hi Phil do you thin your emulsion at all when you roller? What consistency do you look for?
I see how it feels at the time. Some paints need it more than other.bern using Benjamin Moore Ben this weekend... Video out next month... That needed nothing and went on very well.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks Phil i've been using Little greene matt emulsion and find it a bit sticky used neat, Seems to flow better when i add a splash of water! Great Vids Thanks
Phil your a Legend..!!😜
Keep the videos coming the years of experience your sharing is Unreal.
I've honestly stopped watching the I-o painter.
"You know who I mean"!
Find your videos much more knowledgeable!! plus your humour's infectious!
You actually make painting 👍 enjoyable 😁
I'm painting as long as You. But you keep bringing golden nuggets to your platform.
Keep up the good work Phil. 👍
Thanks.... I owe you a pint for the kind words... Please share away.... I'm still after UA-cam funding that classic 911 I want lol
Joking apart... When I taught at college it's what I'd be sharing to students.. this is just a new and better platform for me ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it's all about Passion mate.....! Leaving the best job possible.!👌
Phil, thanks for the video - just one question in regards to rolling while the cut-in's wet. If you've got a massive, long wall that needs cutting in, say a long hallway and stairs wall, how can you get to rolling while the cut-in's still wet if you've got such a large area to cover?
sections? Will you not still get framing from where you ended and started again, if so? I'm not a pro by the way.
ideal if there's two of you.. one cuts in.. the other follows up rolling.
if on your own.. make sure you feather out the cutting in... that will reduce fatty edges and framing... when you roll up close to the ceiling over the cutting in, you'll not be applying too much pressure and rolling ut the paint.. so not a lot will be left actually on the cutting in.. that way it will dry off nice.
Saying all that, different colours can act differently to others.
I've had artex skimmed over on walls and ceilings and it's a really poor job so I've been on different forums to find out if I should fill the walls first and I got a lot of different answers but most where saying to coat the wall first in contract matt to show the marks so can you tell me why they would say that if I can see the marks on the wall that needs filling.
new plaster... give it a wash coat/mist coat first before filling. Use a bare plaster primer.. screwfix sell one quite cheap or Optiva Primer.
They are better than cheap contract mat paints which are 'false opacity' paint.. if you wet it, it turns a grey colour and will wipe off.
YOu fill after you wash coat, as its easier to apply to the surface as its been primed, it shows up imperfections easier too.
once filled and dry, youcan sand it over.
If you rub off any mist coat, re touch them over along with the bare filler, to prime that, before you put you rfinish top coats on.
does that help?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I've already started filling the walls so god help me when I start painting and it shows up more imperfections. I was going to buy the screwfix primer but when I contacted the manufacturer they said it's contract matt but with the correct amount of water added for new plaster.
@@hardworker8030 was coat it before you get it filled. You see where need the filler a lot easier. And the filler will apply easier too on the paint... The bare plaster sucks out the moisture of the filler too quick making it hard to skim out.
Phil, just a quick question, I am going to order optiva 5 and the optiva tinted primer for the newly plastered walls, I can order direct from their website, I won't get a discount etc, but do you know anywhere else it can be ordered from that has colour matching available too.
Hi, I don't see any point tinting optiva primer, its a wash coat and two coats of the OPtiva 5 in the colour you get should be enough. Remember to spot prime any bare areas that you may sand off the wash coat.
What colour Optiva5 are you going for?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it is a johnstone's colour called Waywards winds (grey with a hint of purple) , I called Tikkurila last week and they said it is a colour they they have matched before, next day delivery(excluding weekends) if ordered early enough in the day.
Oddly enough the house we recently bought, has a video on UA-cam ( ua-cam.com/video/KJcF4Qn_E3Y/v-deo.html) from when it was up for rent a couple of years ago, just thought it worth sending across for context of the work I am doing, all prep and painting to be done by me, mostly measured up on Saturday for working out the qty of required paints, we are painting the whole house, feature wall papers removed from all rooms, black entertainment cabinet removed from the living room, wall skimmed, all feature walls to be skimmed on Wednesday (paper removed, lots of crazing, I'm useless at putting up lining paper, just as cheap to skim the walls as opposed to pay someone to line them) , all living rooms, bedrooms, dining room ceilings Anti reflex 2, all non moisture room walls, Optivia 5 matt (wayward winds on all the walls, all sanded over 240 grit and all holes filled) , all wood work scuff x white satin (keyed up, two coats) , radiators to be painted, kitchen and bathroom perma white (white),new counter tops fitted, sink, hob etc, kitchen cabinets, key up, stix primer, then Benjamin Moore advance (2 coats, drying time a bit crazy but it is all good), brush and roller, not sure that I have enough time to get to grips with spraying, need to be in by 29th of this month, but Hall stairs and landing will be just prepped up (might do the woodwork and ceilings, subject to time) , then paint the walls after we move in, due to the walls no doubt been rubbed up against and marked with moving in day mayhem..
Looks a nice house.
Should be straight forward to do.
Why are you re skimming walls, it's a new build.
Strip off wallpaper, clean the walls down/fill sand etc... Coat of Gardz will save time and money.
ScuffX, I've tested that.. video should be out this week.
It very good ,but not cheap.. looks like you have a lot of woodwork to coat up.
A cheaper option would be bedec MSP, that's a solid paint, nice to apply too.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you Phil, true the sanding down might be the best way forward, that is what I did in the kitchen, it came up pretty good, the thing that put me off a bit, was it took me quite a long time to do, plus all the dust, but I have since bought a dust less mirka hand sander, which I've been using to sand down the walls, as there was a fair amount of brush strokes from previous poor quality painting of the walls, now they are nice and smooth, only thing the plasterer is booked in for Wednesday, so I might have to live with the cost, it's £180 for the three walls, so it's not too drastic cost wise, I signed up to Brewers for the 20 percent discount code, so it brings the price down on the cost of the stix, bm advance and the Scuff x.
Probably get less likes by saying press the like button so much... Damn irritating along with all the actual thumbs up
what did you do?
can't beat a pure bristle brush tried all the expensive synthetics real bristle still king, sheepskin rollers also still the best tried all the polyaimide ones microfibre etc so much less splatter with sheepskin and holds more paint,
Sheepskin leaves too much texture on the surface when you have plain smooth walls. Fine on textured artex or woodchip or blown vinyl papers.
With some darker colours flockulation is also more prevalent when using longer pile rollers.
I couldn't now go back to pure bristle for waterbased and cutting in. Not enough control to get sharp cutting in.
Have you tried tye eco union 3" for cutting in?
Their 2½ and 4" are very nice to use.
Jeez mate how do you make any money with all this faffing about get in there and blitz it out 😅
Quote it well. Do the spec accordingly
😂😂😂😂 Your obsession of getting your face in is so funny... Youre focusing in on the paint work and all we can see is your face 😂😂😂 get outta the way!!!
Thanks for the view
Mate, you call yourself a 'professional' & talk up your job endlessly yet you use crappy ready made filler which will get dried up chunks in it & make it a pain to fill anything. You use a second rate brush & your paint scuttle doesn't even get bloody washed between jobs! You may do it for a living but you're a long way from being what i'd call a pro decorator.
Thank you for your comments. I'll take it in board ;)
What filler do you use and brushes, what experience have you had with the Presto filler?
My paint scuttle doesn't need washing out after each job.. I have more than one in the go.
The problems when you clean then out after use is you'll find paint comes away off the plastic sides when it starts drying off.
Nothing more satisfying than peeling out old paint from plastic buckets etc.
The old metal style roller scuttle you use a heat gun, or blow torches and warm the outside of it, then it starts to soften and you can peel it out with the help of a putty knife or a 1" or a 2" scraper.
Then seal it with some knotting before use. ;)
I use a filler I freshly mix so as to not get the dried crust of old filler dragging through as I fill leaving tram lines ( you can have that Pro tip on me). I use Purdy brushes for water based paint ( as they are the best) & don't make excuses for using a filthy scuttle & pretend that it peels off leaving a clean scuttle (make a video of that mate!).Lastly, use clean filler knives too! Hope you've learnt something. I'm 'next level' pal! :)
@@GreenSaxon the purdys are good, I've got the ProExtra (blue bristle ones of those, never liked the monarch ones).
If you've not tried the Presto F tub filler, try it. It doesn't dry out like you mention.. just make sure you don't leave it on the sides. Less waste than mixing up powder filler and the big thing it doesn't flash when painting over it like Polly fillers/powder fillers etc.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I'll stick with what i use & am happy with. I don't use Tetrion or Polyfilla.