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Installing BD Diesel Iron Horn Kit 2014 Ram 6.7 Cummins
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2020
- This video goes over the procedure to install a BD Diesel iron horn kit on a 6.7 cummins. The customer has been LOVING his new turbo kit, claiming to get unreal fuel economy even while hauling a 20,000 pound trailer. The turbo spools quickly and has next to no lag. Tons of power and sounds awesome.
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FOR LIGHTWEIGHT KITS IN CANADA CLICK HERE www.dirtydiese... and use DARKIRON5 for 5% off CCS tuning orders
BD Diesel part number #1045292
Turbo specs S363SXE/76 0.91 AR
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Instagram @darkirondiesel
Thanks for watching!
FOR LIGHTWEIGHT KITS IN THE STATES CLICK HERE shrsl.com/3t2xt
FOR LIGHTWEIGHT KITS IN CANADA CLICK HERE www.dirtydieselcustom.ca/ and use DARKIRON5 for 5% off CCS tuning orders
This is the kit I'm going to put on my 2006 3500 5.9l. Got a killer deal on it.
What about the waste control plug? If turbo doesnt have hole for it?
I just bought that same kit for my 3500. Thanks for the video.
My vgt went out yesterday. So I ordere a 364.5 iron horn kit last night. Hopefully I’ll get it by the weekend. I just watched your video on replacing it. The video was very informative. Hopefully everything will work without a hitch. Thanks
How many miles did it go out at if you remember?
Bd for the win lol. All stuff I’ve looked at, so this is a sweet watch. Good job man
Thanks buddy!
They make a high temp never seize (blue molley)
We use it at work for Steam line fittings
Definitely worth getting new studs vs keeping manifold bolts. You can hang gaskets too
Does the turbo speed sensor work with this turbocharger
Did you unplug the speed sensor beside the block and the actuator plug from the actuator? I’ve seen some actuators have a plug by the speed sensor plug next to the block. Cant seem to find it on my 2014.
How did you make the truck drive what tune did you put on the computer
You need to get yourself a Topside creeper if you already don't have one they come in really handy doing that job
What happened to the speed sensor?
So I did exactly this….. I’m still popping codes for MAF sensor lost comm and turbo lost comm…. Am I missing something? Did my MAF sensor coincidentally go out at the same time? Was told my truck was already tuned for the VGT and for this turbo too. On my 2012 2500.
Do you need that turbo speed sensor anymore since you deleted the vgt... awesome video and will help alot I'm doing the samething in a couple days
Any response? I am doing this but havent had answers...
No one will answer that
I've been doing a bunch of these vgt turbos lately on the cab and chassis trucks and that drain SUCKS!! Everyone of them I take the compressor cover off and the bolts are right there. It's so much easier but if it's not lined up that doesn't help. These seem to be a problem on these newer trucks. Starting to get a dead set game plan on them with how many come in from failing lol Good video!
Yeah buddy I replaced 3 of the factory VGT turbos in the past few months alone! This turbo set up works really well, the customer absolutely LOVES it! Plus its only slightly more expensive then replacing the VGT with a factory remanufactured turbo. When I took it for a test drive I was amazed at the quick spool time and the power it has. Only downside is no exhaust brake in my opinion.
@@darkirondiesel Yeah vgt is personally my choice. I need the exhaust brake plus on my truck if I want it quiet adjusting the vanes is basically a variable muffler 😂 I have it set in the middle for spool up and at 22psi it opens all the way. It's super responsive
VGT отстой?)) Может управление турбиной отстой?))
Where did u get the tune for this kit??? I have a bully dog gt tuner... im assuming I need to download a tune from somewhere???
Does this turbo compare to the s300 364.5? I have a 66/74 s300 right now and it surges very badly below 2,000 RPM towing 18psi boost and above.
I think I need to go with a turbo that has a smaller compressor wheel
You have the highway patrol attention now
What was the blue smoke about if you don’t mind me asking? My truck does that when I rev it sitting still, was possibly thinking turbo seals?
The oil drain is a PAIN!!!! I took 45 mins stretching it and bending it to finally adjust it just right. My advice try not to move it to much when you remove the factory vgt.
Yes it is the worst part hahah
I got a 2014 ram 3500 is deleted i want to take the vgt turbo off i do.alot towing whats will be my best choice 👌 so many configuration?
@Dark Iron Diesel I know on this project the turbo and manifold were both replaced. From your experience do you think if a person was stilling using the VGT turbo but installing one of these BD manifolds. Could the BD manifold be installed following the removal of the OEM manifold, if the VGT turbo was left in place? Asking as I had to replace the turbo 4 months ago and it was a pain and trying to make an exhaust gasket/manifold replacement project as painless as possible.
At what point should you upgrade your transmission when doing a 2nd gen manifold swap on a Ram 2016?
Your pup was great!
What replacement turbo would you recommend for a 2016 6.7? Looking at ats.
Do you think the S364SXE .91 kit capable of maxing out the stock MAP sensor? Edit: YES
i think it's easier to remove the inner fender, battery box and coolant res, and it's in your face
What do you do with the speed sensor
Can I use this turbo with a 2nd gen swap/manifold?
Could you do a video on a 2nd gen swap? Not many good ones out there
What did you do with the speed sensor
I’ve been asking the same th8ng
Great work good tips great vid
Thank you!
Maybe a dumb question, but what controls boost if you removed your VGT turbo and go traditional?
Samw question here
Turbo size (more importantly, the exhaust housing size and A/R) and fueling.
That’s why with these BD kits they say “up to XXX HP” and have fueling as well as AR recommendations for each kit/size. (Turbo sizing for the application is key.)
In my case I went with the S364.5 kit. - It recommends the .91 AR, stock injectors and stock pump. (They next size up recommends fueling over stock.)
I spoke with BD and they advised going with this kit and the .91 AR given I tow.
DD recommended the 1.0 AR for room to grow later on down the road if I decided to upgrade fueling, etc; which would reduce the chances of over speeding the turbo and further reduce EBP.
I have no plans in the foreseeable future to upgrade my fueling, etc. - So, .91 AR it was. Plus I have the F’n 68RFE…
Anyway, you do lose some low end spool switching to a fixed geometry, but it can be combated with “Low Boost Fueling” in the tune; which mine was.
I have ZERO regrets going with this kit. - I do miss the EB, but so far haven’t truly required it.
With that said, one can always be added later on.
For the record, I am 100% maxing out the OEM MAP sensor. It pegs 37.4 psi and stays there.
Doing the math off of the EBP sensor, I’m hitting 53 - 55 pounds of boost on “full send” if you will.
The ratio for the most part is 1:1 now. Sometimes less when simply cruising. - Which is a MASSIVE improvement over the VGT and it’s restrictive, bottle neck exhaust housing.
And not to mention, it sounds sooo much better. You can hear the “thirl” in the exhaust at idle and spool up and down is now there. - Not second gen style, but definitely there.
I do however miss the “jet sound” on startup, especially cold mornings. - I’m sure my neighbors feel the exact opposite however. 🤣
Edit: This truck is my first diesel, so I am no expert by any means. - But, this is my understanding from my research, speaking with my tuner, BD & DD.
Mod list if interested:
* BD Iron Horn kit
* BD trans pan
* BD trans cooler thermostat delete
* BD diff covers
* RevMax billet valve body
* BMP CAT filter conversion
* Banks intercooler and piping
* Banks Monster Ram
* Banks intake
* Banks grid heater delete
* Banks 5” filter back exhaust
* G&R throttle valve delete
* Flo-Pro goodies
* Two Banks iDash’s w/ thermocouple module
* EFI LIVE AutoCal V3, CSP5 switch and CCS tune(s) to include TCM.
* Thuren 2” leveling kit w/ F & R Fox shocks
* Thuren front sway bar w/ HD end links
* Thuren steering stabilizer w/ single Fox
* Thuren rear HD sway bar end links.
* Synergy HD steering upgrade kit
* Dethloff Mfg rear sway bar spacer (sway bar barely kissed diff cover when pulling loaded trailer out of sand.)
* 17” KMC Mesa’s wrapped in 35” BFG AT’s.
* Exhaust, turbo exhaust housing, turbo manifold, intercooler piping and intake horn all JetHot coated black. (They have a location right down the street from me.)
What do you do about the exhaust brake with this
My vgt took a dump on my 2012 6.7 I miss the brake at times but put a BD Super B Special on it and its been great! I do miss the brake at times tho. lol
I’m assuming getting rid of the VGT gets rid of your exhaust brake
@@parkerpasco3879 yep. The trucks only have an exhaust brake ability because of the VGT turbo, remove the VGT and your exhaust braking is gone
I did the swap exactly like this vid, but the turbo still isnt building any boost.. i have an ez lynk and GDP tuned it so its not the tune. Anybody got any advice?
It’s gotta have a leak somewhere. Make sure the turbo flange is tight and the boost pipe going to the intercooler. If it’s not building boost it must have a leak where the pressure is escaping.
In need of a tone for this up grade where do i go?
Good video as always, why would someone Want a horn like that?
Where did you get the trans dip stick mount?
I know, this vid is over a year old. But gotta ask. You didn't remove the passenger tire, wheel well liner, battery and box? You just went after it?
Nope I’ve never removed that stuff to change a turbo on a 6.7, but some People have commented saying it’s easier if you remove that stuff
@@darkirondiesel Right on. Great vid, thanks for the quick answer.
I don't mean to hijack DID's vid, but I just wanted to add a few things I couldn't find anywhere else. '17 Ram, 364SXE 1.0, 5" turbo back, S&B cold air, GDP horn, heater grid delete, sea level, 4.44 gears, 37's, DRD tunes.
Day 1: Just started the swap this afternoon. Seriously, I don't know how you do this without pulling all those things. You must have monkey arms. LOL! Your video certainly makes it look a whole lot easier than what it is. I opted to remove everything mentioned and it still wasn't a walk in the park, but it sure made it a helluva lot easier to get to everything. One of the harder jobs I've done.
Day 2: OK...I highly recommend getting some help from a friend and pulling the wheel well liner. Pulling the oil drain at the bottom is kind of tough because of the heat shield. I used an angled pry bar to "manipulate" it just enough to get a socket on the bolt heads. You'll have to use 3/8" drive. There are extensions that allow the socket to slightly angle in four directions kinda like a universal. Buy one. The driver's side rear flange bolt was a pain. All were very tight. You'll just have to wrestle them the best you can. I used the "double wrench" method. With the turbo out, bend the heat shield forward and down. Turbo installed after even more heat shield manipulation. With the wheel well liner removed you can actually access the bottom of the new turbo without going underneath...at least to get the gasket in and bolts started. Finish up by tightening the driver's side bolt from underneath and passenger side from over the frame rail. Contrary to some videos, I did not have to remove the alignment pin in the exhaust elbow. After installing turbo, there was a 1" gap between the elbow and exhaust down pipe. "Simple bolt in installation". OK. So had to adjust exhaust pipe joints to compensate for length. I also did a Pusher coolant standpipe delete. I'll do another review of that, there were a few issues...and at that price. I've bounced around here, but hopefully it has helped someone. Tomorrow...button up, retune and start.
Day 3: Final inspection and start. All is good. Spools fast. Sounds great. There is a slight whistle around 1500 rpm, but you have to listen for it. Sound aside, it spools just as fast as the VGT under most conditions. I'm running the 90 horse setting, not much smoke unless you get into it pre-spool. It looks like I also got a one mpg increase. Exhaust note is better and a touch louder. It will swing almost 40 psi boost at WOT. While this is a lot of work, I'm overly happy with it. But I sure do miss my exhaust brake. ;-)
A weeks worth of driving: If you're looking for that big turbo sound, forget it. Super fast spool to nearly 40 psi and about 1mpg increase in fuel economy. Still miss the exhaust brake and would like some noise, oh well. Overall, I'm very happy and totally recommend it.
I hope this has helped.
Oh...one more thing. If you decide later to install a center dump 2nd gen manifold check with the manufacturer to see if this turbo is compatible. The integrated charge elbow is proprietary and not compatible with other manufacturers. I inquired with WC Fab re: their tubing kit. No worky. So if you buy this setup, make sure it's what you want. FWIW.
Are those ports on the exhaust manifold collector to add an EGT probe?
They would be for egr if the truck still had it
@@Lairdoestuff The ports I was referring to are the 2 little threaded ports at the turbo collector. I believe one is for the factory EGR sensor and one is for an aftermarket EGR sensor if desired. The kit comes with plugs for these ports if they're not needed.
That's where I put my Autometer EGT probe. Temps are more accurate there IMHO over the rear EGR block off.
How does the truck manage the boost now? is there a wastegate?
No, no wastegate. It regulates the boost by moving the vanes inside the turbo
That's an unfortunate answer from the guys that just installed a fixed geometry turbo.
With doing all of that why not do a 2 nd Gen swap ? Don’t get it that seams crazy not doing the swap ?
Because it’s way easier to instal and achieves pretty much the same thing. I think the only difference between this and a 2nd gen swap is the placement the turbo is mounted on the exhaust manifold.
Nice job sounds great, does it pull any better?
The customer says it’s awesome! He said it’s way better then it was before, plus he is claiming to get 13-14 L/100km while towing a 20,000 pound cattle trailer.
Do you ever get dtc codes after tuning a truck I ran my truck for about 70 miles and my engine light still off just wondering if it was normal
I don’t understand... you shouldn’t have any codes on your truck at any time regardless of tuning or not. If you have a code then something is wrong.
Was this a dual radiator truck?
If the truck has efi live and a stock turbo will the turbo just swap and be done or do you still have to tune
You’re still going to have to tune, but if it already has efi live just get whoever wrote the original tunes to send you new tunes for the turbo kit
No coolant lines needed anymore?
lost my stock exhaust brake when I replaced my turbo with the BD turbo. what exhaust brake can I use to adapted to factory switch?
Yeah the iron horn turbo kits aren’t VGT turbos therefore they don’t have an exhaust brake.
@@darkirondiesel what brand of exhaust brake does it work for this setup?
Sounds like a Cummins should,way better than the stock vgt turbo! Is there a muffler on this truck in the video?
I believe this truck has a flo pro 5” exhaust with muffler (resonator)
Dark Iron Diesel Right on thanks for the reply buddy love the videos
Thanks buddy!
The truck sounds awesome! I've been considering a 3rd gen kit for my 2018. I have looked at BD, Smeding and Industrial Injection.
I love BD's kit the most, but hate the fact that their manifold still has the EGR ports. I'm currently running a deleted truck with the EGR intact (just unplugged). So i don't want to waste another $200 on a "EGR delete kit"...
The Smeding kit is also a nice one and their manifold doesn't have the EGR ports. I just don't know much about them.
But one of my biggest concerns is turbo size. I'm torn between what I should get. a 363, 364.5 or 366? I've heard multiple people say different things about all of them... Saying that the 363 is too small for a 6.7 and that you could over spin it, and that the 366 is too lagy on stock fuel.
Have you called BD directly and talked to someone in sales? They could probably sell you a manifold without egr ports. What are you going to do about the intake though? Get an aftermarket intake elbow?
@@darkirondiesel Yes I have contacted BD and asked about their other manifold but they said it would'nt fit with the kit... Yes I intend to get an aftermarket intake elbow too
@@codydonovan7356 A couple of things:
- That S363SX-E (not to be confused with anything from the old S300SX line-up) is absolutely not too small for the 6.7 Cummins. That turbo can flow enough air (78 lbs/min) to support at least 600whp and can spin past 122,000 RPM.
- There are two sizes of turbines to choose from: a 68/76mm and a 74/80mm. The smaller one will spool a touch quicker but be slightly more restrictive (higher overall EGTs). The larger will spool a touch slower but be less restrictive (lower overall EGTs).
- Turbine housing A/R (.88, .91, 1.0, 1.10) will shift your boost curve to the right of the graph the larger you go. Additionally, the larger the A/R the less restriction to exhaust gasses. So overall EGTs will be lower the larger you go. In turn, a smaller A/R housing will spool quicker but have higher overall EGTs.
- Overspooling is directly related to rotating mass. The S363SX-E has a considerably less rotating mass as compared to say a conventional S467.7SX. The former, has a 63mm compressor wheel and 76mm turbine, where the latter a 68mm and 83mm turbine. The larger the distance from the center of the wheel (compressor or turbine) the more energy it takes (time) to start moving it (spool) and the less RPM it can withstand before coming apart. This is why we see people with a S472SX (72mm compressor/83mm turbine) running a .9 A/R turbine housing and big injectors frequently explode turbos. They are just too big to be running at those speeds and structurally cannot take it. Where as a smaller turbo is just fine moving that fast, albeit they move less air.
That said, I have the S369SX-E with the 80mm turbine and .91 A/R housing on my stock fuel 2014 2500 (there's a few vids of it on my channel, if interested). Even with low boost fueling and running on the race tune, there is significant lag. It's not something that makes the truck undrivable or anything, but it's far from how a VGT spools or how the S363SX-E would spool. This turbo lights around 1900-2000 RPMs and likes to "live" around 1800 RPM at a minimum. The reality is that this turbo is a tad too large for stock fuel, but I knew that and planned on getting larger injectors down the road.
My best advice is to figure out what you're going to use the truck for and what power level you desire and go from there. If you tow a lot and are staying with a stock injector, go with the S363. If you tow sometimes and want some room for reasonable fuel mods, get into the 364.5 or 366.
@@monsterram6617 Thanks man! That was extremely helpful. I don't tow often. The truck is mainly a daily driver and I haul/tow occasionally. I don't plan on getting bigger injectors, but maybe n the future. I mainly want to stay close to stock horsepower for now. I think I'm leaning more towards the 364.5 or 366.
@@monsterram6617 lots of info there thank you for the wright up.
What about exhaust brake
Great video
Thank you! 👊🏻
I'm new to diesels. Why go from stock turbo to fixed geometry turbo?
The modern VGT turbos have more parts (electronic actuator, mechanical turbo vanes) and they are prone to failing over time. So a fixed geometry turbo is just more reliable long term.
@@darkirondiesel would you recommend this change asap or say when the stock turbo goes out?
@@everett24 wait until your VGT fails. You’ll lose the exhaust brake so enjoy that while it all works
Nice!
Where is your shop at
where are located
what is the average install cost for this kit? i’m located in texas
I bought mine last night for 1756.00
Free...if you do it yourself. ;-)
How did you tighten the #5 bottom bolt on the manifold?
I don’t remember exactly, I think with a wrench from underneath. I remember it was super not fun.
Wrench from the bottom. There is no other way.
You didn’t have to prime the new turbo with oil before install?
I did prime it
Sorry. I missed it the first time I watched.
2nd gen swap video please
If I get one in the shop I will definitely film it!
Does it retain the exhaust brake ?
No you lose the exhaust brake.
If I had a shop do this how much would It cost approximately?
Hmm I dunno man probably around 10 hours labour plus parts