BEST MADE VIDEO I'VE EVER SEEN... THIS WAS STEP BY STEP... WORKED THE WHOLE TIME... WHILE "HE TALKED...WITHOUT STOPING... ONLY TO JESTER WITH HANDS.. SHOWED EVERY PART... ON AND OFF.. START TO FINISH...WONDERFUL JOB.. VERY HELPFUL.... THANK YOU 🤗🤗🤗👍👏👏👏👏👏
I’m still kinda nervous of starting mine. It seem so technical and don’t want to screw anything up! Hate doing something for the first time. And this is Preventive Maintenance. As far as I know neither Water Pump, Timing Belt, etc has never been changed
Who knew that one day not only would you have your 1/2" breaker bar, socket set, PB blaster, would also be a laptop to watch UA-cam how to. Awesome job man!
Watched this over and over and referenced it throughout the process. All fixed up with no leaks!! Thank you! The timing belt set up took the longest. Bout 2 hours of the total 6 hours. The cardboard works great. Just keep it super tight in the cams. My passenger side also didnt line up exactly but very close.Great work!
I know this is a couple years old but Distratctor u r the man. I did one of these having never did one by watching your video and 5 hours later its running like a champ. Thanks for the video dude very informative. You should do more the way you show everything step by step is helpful.
thanks so much followed your video step by step and did this myself. took about 4 hrs. I spent about 1hr fighting with the belt... no room for error. but otherwise this was almost easy! again thanks for the video. saved me over $750.
Nice video Sir! I own a few of these 3.5 in my wifes magnum and her charger. You have really made this easy by listing the correct torques and other weird tools needed. Thank you!
A very good video overall - covering 3.5L timing belt/water pump work - especially from a chronological perspective. I performed this task on a 2010 Charger 3.5L V6 recently. A few things I'd like to throw in: - No way cardboard is going to hold the belt. In order to get and keep it tight on the passenger cam sprocket - I used a 1/4" shank screw driver no more than 8" long - 5/16" can also work or maybe use extensions. In order to hold the crank - I used a short/straight chisel with a piece of shop towel around it. You MUST keep things tight on the crank and drivers side. Those 2 cannot move once you get around to doing the final work on the passenger side cam gear. The video by GOAT Garage has a good presentation on how to do this. - The M12x1.75x100 bolt used to reinstall damper works if you use a std. length 1/2" Dr. socket as a spacer. If you use a longer spacer that you'll see in other videos, you'll need a 110mm/120mm bolt. - You may not be able to get the passenger side cam gear timing mark to hold and keep its position perfectly. The mark on my passenger cam gear was about 1/16" to the right facing the index mark on the back side of the housing. More than one dealer tech told me this is fine. I've driven the car quite a bit since reassembly and no issues. It is my belief the only way ALL 3 marks are going to line up perfectly is to follow the steps in the FSM regarding the loosening of the rockers. My crank timing mark and drivers side timing mark were spot on. Again - the passenger side mark was 1/16" to the right facing it. - For those who are not aware - you do not need to pull the tensioner and compress piston - reinstall grenade pin - in order to realign timing marks. Go to about 6m15s into this video: ua-cam.com/video/CgpGJckntO0/v-deo.html - The type of index marks used on the rear cover are not the same in the various 3.5 motors. Some have double dots and others have a plain vertical indentation. The latter is what my '10 3.5 Charger has. - Aftermarket timing belts are more likely to be off. This is why I used all OEM parts. If the aftermarket worked for you - so be it. No need to whine and cry about how they worked for you. - The wrench/socket sizes shown in this video may not quiet line up with your situation. Car mfgs. change that all of the time. - Thanks to distractor_beam
Resson your last mark didn't line up is because after you install,your tensioner will spring in place thus causing the belt to move alittle.the way around this is to compensate for it in the beginning.
I moved the mark CW a bit - several times to compensate as you suggested - went thru this many times. I got to where I was 1/16" to the right of dead center and that was closer than 2 pros who posted videos here. Another dealer tech told me he's never gotten a 3.5 motors timing marks to be absolutely perfect. I sent him pics of mine. He said they were as close as he has ever seen. The only way you will get the 3.5 Chrysler/Dodge motor dead on - all 3 marks is to follow the FSM doc and first loosen all rockers on top of the motor. All of the dealer techs I spoke with told me no one does this.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I just purchased an '05 Magnum (with the 3.5) and your video looks like it's got the little things I was looking for (like the special tools, torques, and ideas on keeping the timing belt in place while you install it).
Excellent video, my boy and his girlfriend bought a 05 Magnumd and hopefully I can pull it off. I've worked on cars my entire life. Never do any of my or family's vehicles go to the shop, except transmissions. I'll use this to get me through the process. Thanks
Time to buy an inch pound torque wrench.... I did this job 60k miles ago on my 06 magnum and now the pump is leaking. It was a continental kit with a 100k warranty let see how that goes at the parts store. This was an excellent video. I found that instead of cardboard to hold belt that the spring clamps from HF worked like a champ. I remember that my driver cam jump when I pulled off the belt but can get i back into place going forward or backward...
Great video, I enjoy it! One observation would be to use the proper HOAT Chrysler/Dodge antifreeze or it can creat a problem with your head gasket or other gaskets. Other than that, I love how you didn't edit your mistakes, I know I've made them lol
Thanks for the video. I just used it to replace my water pump. I suggest getting a Milwaukee electric ratchet. It seriously cuts down on the time of any job since its so fast, and when it comes to breaking bolts, its heavier body makes provides it more levarage so its alot easier. Also, whenever working on cars, I hate how its always those little things like that one stubborn bolt, or in your case pulling the pin on the tensioner that makes the job that much harder. lol.
This was a helpful reference for my 3.5 timing job. Slightly different in the older Intrepid, but similar enough that I had a good idea what I was getting into. Thanks!
@@Distractor_Beam hey 👋 I have a question I just bought the pulley remover tool but the long pin is missing am considering to. Return the tool it cost me 20 dlls on ebay but am asking you it's possible to find the pin it self somewhere ? Thanks 👍
Thanks for the help on this!! Just finished my son’s ‘05 Chrysler 300 water pump and timing belt using the same kit. Saved $600 from what the dealer quoted for just replacing the water pump.
Thank you , the cardboard thing , priceless! Once the tensioner came into full play , the rear cam timing mark went right on point! 2004 Pacifica 300000 miles
Wow! Awesome, God bless you. Thanks for your knowledge. I will tackle my big job tomorrow. This video will come in handy if I forget something. Take care.
Yes thank you . This is one of many of the same videos I watched prior to successfully change these parts out. Except when I finished I had extra bolts and some plastic pieces that didn't seem to fit anywhere
Great Video, really helped by placing the Cardboard around the Belt! Belt kept falling off, then I remembered this Video :) Changing at 133k Miles. I know I Dragged it out over 100k, So Happy that I did not Loose it while driving :) I did have my Rear Cam off about a half a tooth forward. Did not remember reading about the Water Pump positioning up more, if possible, but feel with New Belt being Tight, the Tensioner will pull it back that Way, since the Front Cam & Crank are tdc! Went ahead & Started prior to putting timing covers back on (Learn from Experience), Started right up, sounded Perfect, putting it all back together. Thanks Again!
Holy crap dude, awesome tutorial! It's 12:45 AM and I should be sleeping, but I now know how to change my timing belt in 40K miles or so LOL!! Also I had it done shortly after buying the car (was at 120K miles) and the mechanic told me it a lift the engine out job. I completely thought the belt was in the back...
Awesome video! Just did this on my 06’ Chrysler 300. I love the buzzer effect with the red Strike 😄 and the bleeps 😄 thank you SOOOOO much for posting this !!!
I just wanted to post my experience with my 2007 Dodge Magnum SXT 3.5 that I suspected had a broken timing belt. Keep in mind I am NO mechanic and simply watched THIS VIDEO several times from start to finish. I purchased the vehicle used using my stimulus check and it was running great. All of a sudden out of nowhere, and while at idle the car dies. No loud sounds, no strange noises, no squeaking wasn't overheating before that. Nothing. I had it towed to a local shop who called me the next day to tell me they thought it was "Hyrdrolocked". I asked if that was bad? They said "yeah"...about as bad as it gets. I asked if there was any chance the engine wasn't damaged if the belt broke and they said "probably not". So I decided to get a 2nd opinion from myself. I watched this video and took everything apart. It was a struggle and included borrowing a harmonic balancer puller from AutoZone (free btw) but I finally did it. What I found was that the belt WAS broken but that it had wound tightly around the bottom crankshaft to the point you couldn't break it free with a cheater bar. I literally had to saw the belt (3 wraps) from around the shaft with a little hand saw. I think what happened was that it broke but immediately wound around it itself and stopped the engine. I put a new belt on it (keep in mind this is an interference engine) and I was told by just about everyone that it was shot. I carefully replaced the belt, made sure all the TDCs were lined up and reassembled it. Fired it up and it works PERFECTLY. The moral of the story is sometimes you can get lucky even with an interference engine. It has been running fine for over 3 weeks now and nearly 1500 miles.
Great job. Your story gave me a feeling of pride I only get when I see someone else succeed. You beat a mechanic that has probably been working on cars for years, and made up a story because he didn't want to dive in and find out what the problem actually was. That's a big win in any handyman's book.
Man awesome video. My waterpump went out yesterday 😩 found this and it really helped get me through it. I did have my driver side valve jump while doing this. Really hope I didn't mess up too bad. About to add coolant and fire 🔥 it up. Wish me luck lol 😆
WOW thanks for sharing. I'm sure I'll be doing this to my recently bought dodge charger. As I've found out it's a salvage car. Hopefully I hit jackpot with this great beauty of a project.
When I take or remove the radiator fan out I put a sheet board in front of the radiator so it doesn't get hit so you don't have no close encounters happening.
To prevent finger getting cut from Radiator. Cut large cardboard out and tape it across it. From there, you can work without worries, and you won't damage the radiator fins either.
This motor looks the same as a 3.5L V6 2002 300M...nice vid @Distractor_beam before you released the pin on the Tensioner, the cam on your left seems to be a tooth and a half off, did that line up after Tension was applied? @31:02
cool vid... as a mechanic never worked one of these .. it appears you can leave on bottom vibr. damper pully if only changing water pump. but great idea go the extra and do the timing belt and tensioner parts. should have pinched closed the pin and pulled it half way... but you didnt lose a inch of skin, so all good . Its getting so much easier, except those 2-3 "special" sockets, which you point out. pretty sure i will do my buddys now..its "pissing" out the front center lower. 1/2022 yur still helping..
Great video and I'd like to know what you shot it with. It's line of sight, but it's not moving....so...? It looks nice! On the critical side... no need to remove air-box, power steering pump, or disconnect battery, Also that Torx is a T30, not T40. No need for the washers on the crank bolt, the bolt by itself will be just fine. Coolant on the crank pulley is not an issue, just rinse it off with hot water. When you're torquing the water pump bolts, use a "spiral" pattern starting at the center and working outwards and do it in at least two stages of tightness. And finally you can use cheapy spring clamps to secure the belt to the pulleys to prevent movement when setting up timing. Thanks for the good work!
Is the level of this job suitable for someone who never done any mechanic work beforehand, given that the video is applied slowly and step by step? All relative responses are appreciated. Thanks.
Put the belt on the 2 cam pulley's first, then around the crank pulley, the last is to work it around the tensioner pulley, then check your timing marks, this is how I did it.
Definitely like the video was clearly detailed for the diy ppl. The last part when putting the harmonic balance back on, what sockets did you use to push it back in?
It’s a good video of explaining only thing that confuses me is the end when he makes sure the timing is all lined up he takes the bolt off and it takes the 2 top notches off of where they line up. So how does that fix that? Or do they just have to be centered basically and the bottom one is the one that make sure it’s centered as long as it’s notch is lined up?
How much space should be between the rear of the crank pully and the cover when you push the pulley back on, I used your method and I'm unsure if it's completely back in place.
I just want to say thank you very much. I watched your video 10 times. Couple times on the shitter. Jk. Lol. I just did my 2006 and BAMM. It’s alive. Lol.
lol same here 100th time seeing it just order mine replacement kit be here in a week lol ,my problem was heatin up magnum 05 empty reservoir till one day i noticed water was coming out behind balancer
Should you replace the crank bolt? I know on Toyota's your supposed to. Torque to yield bolt. Also get you a set of clamps to hold the belt on the cams while installing it. Like a big clothes pin. And in this instance, its easier to put the belt on the cams first then go down on the crank sprocket. That way your not fighting with keeping it in correct timing with two cams, your just fighting with the crank. But overall nice job. Also i always use a little rvt on my water pump even if there is a gasket. Thats after i clean up the mating surface of the motor.
I had a belt snap. Scoped inside and valves look straight, I don’t see a piston slap from valves. Got my timing marks in line. Still no start! Need assist
It's because of you I still have a car and not in debt. I hope God blesses you
Amen.. it's people like him that keeps the world evolving in good spirits
BEST MADE VIDEO I'VE EVER SEEN... THIS WAS STEP BY STEP... WORKED THE WHOLE TIME... WHILE "HE TALKED...WITHOUT STOPING... ONLY TO JESTER WITH HANDS.. SHOWED EVERY PART... ON AND OFF.. START TO FINISH...WONDERFUL JOB.. VERY HELPFUL.... THANK YOU 🤗🤗🤗👍👏👏👏👏👏
I’m still kinda nervous of starting mine. It seem so technical and don’t want to screw anything up! Hate doing something for the first time. And this is Preventive Maintenance. As far as I know neither Water Pump, Timing Belt, etc has never been changed
@@jamesbarlowjr.3762 did you end up doing it? If so how did it go
V
Timing belt was giving me hell till I seen this video! Great stuff!
Just did a 06 Chrysler 300 3.5L timing belt cover gasket and i watched this awesome fellow to put the belt back on correctly..
Who knew that one day not only would you have your 1/2" breaker bar, socket set, PB blaster, would also be a laptop to watch UA-cam how to. Awesome job man!
Watched this over and over and referenced it throughout the process. All fixed up with no leaks!! Thank you!
The timing belt set up took the longest. Bout 2 hours of the total 6 hours. The cardboard works great. Just keep it super tight in the cams. My passenger side also didnt line up exactly but very close.Great work!
I know this is a couple years old but Distratctor u r the man. I did one of these having never did one by watching your video and 5 hours later its running like a champ. Thanks for the video dude very informative. You should do more the way you show everything step by step is helpful.
Same boat dude at it was nice
Was your motor turning over slow?
@@cgslowrt2333 no water pump was leaking
thanks so much followed your video step by step and did this myself. took about 4 hrs. I spent about 1hr fighting with the belt... no room for error. but otherwise this was almost easy! again thanks for the video. saved me over $750.
Glad to hear it. :) Thanks for the feedback.
Distractor_Beam I’m doing mine when I put the bolts on the thing that looks like a granade my timing points move
Very helpful, step by step and even gives all the torque specs. Thank you!
Didn’t skip anything like other videos. Thank you tremendously
Nice video Sir! I own a few of these 3.5 in my wifes magnum and her charger. You have really made this easy by listing the correct torques and other weird tools needed. Thank you!
Amazing video. Step by step. Just replaced my sons and his timing was 180* out. This video allowed me to fix his car and save money on mechanics.
Hell yeah man. Dad to the rescue
Great job! The work-around for putting the harmonic balancer back on helped me thank m12- 100 mm with a "grip" of flat washers.
A very good video overall - covering 3.5L timing belt/water pump work - especially from a chronological perspective. I performed this task on a 2010 Charger 3.5L V6 recently. A few things I'd like to throw in:
- No way cardboard is going to hold the belt. In order to get and keep it tight on the passenger cam sprocket - I used a 1/4" shank screw driver no more than 8" long - 5/16" can also work or maybe use extensions. In order to hold the crank - I used a short/straight chisel with a piece of shop towel around it. You MUST keep things tight on the crank and drivers side. Those 2 cannot move once you get around to doing the final work on the passenger side cam gear. The video by GOAT Garage has a good presentation on how to do this.
- The M12x1.75x100 bolt used to reinstall damper works if you use a std. length 1/2" Dr. socket as a spacer. If you use a longer spacer that you'll see in other videos, you'll need a 110mm/120mm bolt.
- You may not be able to get the passenger side cam gear timing mark to hold and keep its position perfectly. The mark on my passenger cam gear was about 1/16" to the right facing the index mark on the back side of the housing. More than one dealer tech told me this is fine. I've driven the car quite a bit since reassembly and no issues. It is my belief the only way ALL 3 marks are going to line up perfectly is to follow the steps in the FSM regarding the loosening of the rockers. My crank timing mark and drivers side timing mark were spot on. Again - the passenger side mark was 1/16" to the right facing it.
- For those who are not aware - you do not need to pull the tensioner and compress piston - reinstall grenade pin - in order to realign timing marks. Go to about 6m15s into this video:
ua-cam.com/video/CgpGJckntO0/v-deo.html
- The type of index marks used on the rear cover are not the same in the various 3.5 motors. Some have double dots and others have a plain vertical indentation. The latter is what my '10 3.5 Charger has.
- Aftermarket timing belts are more likely to be off. This is why I used all OEM parts. If the aftermarket worked for you - so be it. No need to whine and cry about how they worked for you.
- The wrench/socket sizes shown in this video may not quiet line up with your situation. Car mfgs. change that all of the time.
- Thanks to distractor_beam
Resson your last mark didn't line up is because after you install,your tensioner will spring in place thus causing the belt to move alittle.the way around this is to compensate for it in the beginning.
I moved the mark CW a bit - several times to compensate as you suggested - went thru this many times. I got to where I was 1/16" to the right of dead center and that was closer than 2 pros who posted videos here. Another dealer tech told me he's never gotten a 3.5 motors timing marks to be absolutely perfect. I sent him pics of mine. He said they were as close as he has ever seen.
The only way you will get the 3.5 Chrysler/Dodge motor dead on - all 3 marks is to follow the FSM doc and first loosen all rockers on top of the motor. All of the dealer techs I spoke with told me no one does this.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I just purchased an '05 Magnum (with the 3.5) and your video looks like it's got the little things I was looking for (like the special tools, torques, and ideas on keeping the timing belt in place while you install it).
Glad to help. And thanks! :)
Excellent video, my boy and his girlfriend bought a 05 Magnumd and hopefully I can pull it off. I've worked on cars my entire life. Never do any of my or family's vehicles go to the shop, except transmissions. I'll use this to get me through the process. Thanks
What do you know about transmissions?
Great video man !!! You fixed my car for me and didn't even know you did, thanks for great explanation of the process
Thank you for the video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this myself and I succeeded!
Great video no need to take my charger to the shop an pay $1,400,u just showed me how to fix it myself THANK YOU......
Time to buy an inch pound torque wrench.... I did this job 60k miles ago on my 06 magnum and now the pump is leaking. It was a continental kit with a 100k warranty let see how that goes at the parts store. This was an excellent video. I found that instead of cardboard to hold belt that the spring clamps from HF worked like a champ. I remember that my driver cam jump when I pulled off the belt but can get i back into place going forward or backward...
My compliments, great instructional video. Disconnecting battery for safety and accidental cranking of the engine, 2 thumbs up.
Great video. Somebody get this man a cordless ratchet
??
Thanks for taking the time to enlightening us on how to do this job, God bless you 🙏
Great work my friend 🙏. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great video, I enjoy it! One observation would be to use the proper HOAT Chrysler/Dodge antifreeze or it can creat a problem with your head gasket or other gaskets. Other than that, I love how you didn't edit your mistakes, I know I've made them lol
Awesome info. Hreat job mate. Did my charger in 4 hours after watching this awesome video. God bless.
Best mechanic I've ever watched on utube. Thank you very much for making this video 👍
Thanks for the video. I just used it to replace my water pump. I suggest getting a Milwaukee electric ratchet. It seriously cuts down on the time of any job since its so fast, and when it comes to breaking bolts, its heavier body makes provides it more levarage so its alot easier.
Also, whenever working on cars, I hate how its always those little things like that one stubborn bolt, or in your case pulling the pin on the tensioner that makes the job that much harder. lol.
He probably has something like that, but if he would have used it, then I wouldn't have been able to keep up.
This was a helpful reference for my 3.5 timing job. Slightly different in the older Intrepid, but similar enough that I had a good idea what I was getting into. Thanks!
Thank you :)
@@Distractor_Beam hey 👋 I have a question I just bought the pulley remover tool but the long pin is missing am considering to. Return the tool it cost me 20 dlls on ebay but am asking you it's possible to find the pin it self somewhere ? Thanks 👍
Man I really appreciate you calling out all of the torque specs that really helped me out thanks alot
Thanks for the help on this!! Just finished my son’s ‘05 Chrysler 300 water pump and timing belt using the same kit. Saved $600 from what the dealer quoted for just replacing the water pump.
Brother you did a great job and you did a lot of teaching along the video. Great job!!
Thank you sir on your tutorial, you killed it and made my job so much easier !!!
Thanks :)
Bookmark this bolt for myself 38:59
Thank you , the cardboard thing , priceless! Once the tensioner came into full play , the rear cam timing mark went right on point! 2004 Pacifica 300000 miles
Thats 300,000 miles
Thats 300,000 miles
Congrats and thank you!
@@Fortniteplayer164 was that the first timing belt change for the car? dang that's a trooper
@@Armurp01 yes it was mostly highway miles tho . Motor mounts were always an issue but probably one of the best cars I have ever owned
Wow! Awesome, God bless you. Thanks for your knowledge. I will tackle my big job tomorrow. This video will come in handy if I forget something. Take care.
Thank U man ... U are a amazing Bro.. Regards from Tamaulipas Mexico.
My man! Thank you for this amazing instructional video! I Just did the entire job watching along & had zero problems💪👏💯
Yes thank you . This is one of many of the same videos I watched prior to successfully change these parts out. Except when I finished I had extra bolts and some plastic pieces that didn't seem to fit anywhere
Gracias mi amigo desde Tijuana Baja California México
Excellent video, real step by step and easy to follow. Thanks for posting.
This king! Made it super simple and nice. Thank you.
like that u corrected ur self with the slash symbles lol nice thank you so much ,help me out alot
Great Video, really helped by placing the Cardboard around the Belt! Belt kept falling off, then I remembered this Video :)
Changing at 133k Miles. I know I Dragged it out over 100k, So Happy that I did not Loose it while driving :)
I did have my Rear Cam off about a half a tooth forward. Did not remember reading about the Water Pump positioning up more, if possible, but feel with New Belt being Tight, the Tensioner will pull it back that Way, since the Front Cam & Crank are tdc! Went ahead & Started prior to putting timing covers back on (Learn from Experience), Started right up, sounded Perfect, putting it all back together. Thanks Again!
Holy crap dude, awesome tutorial! It's 12:45 AM and I should be sleeping, but I now know how to change my timing belt in 40K miles or so LOL!! Also I had it done shortly after buying the car (was at 120K miles) and the mechanic told me it a lift the engine out job. I completely thought the belt was in the back...
Haha. Glad you checked first. Those fellas hella overcharge.
Awesome video! Just did this on my 06’ Chrysler 300. I love the buzzer effect with the red Strike 😄 and the bleeps 😄 thank you SOOOOO much for posting this !!!
Hey. I have the same vehicle as you. What did you use to remove the pulley?
I just wanted to post my experience with my 2007 Dodge Magnum SXT 3.5 that I suspected had a broken timing belt. Keep in mind I am NO mechanic and simply watched THIS VIDEO several times from start to finish. I purchased the vehicle used using my stimulus check and it was running great. All of a sudden out of nowhere, and while at idle the car dies. No loud sounds, no strange noises, no squeaking wasn't overheating before that. Nothing. I had it towed to a local shop who called me the next day to tell me they thought it was "Hyrdrolocked". I asked if that was bad? They said "yeah"...about as bad as it gets. I asked if there was any chance the engine wasn't damaged if the belt broke and they said "probably not". So I decided to get a 2nd opinion from myself. I watched this video and took everything apart. It was a struggle and included borrowing a harmonic balancer puller from AutoZone (free btw) but I finally did it. What I found was that the belt WAS broken but that it had wound tightly around the bottom crankshaft to the point you couldn't break it free with a cheater bar. I literally had to saw the belt (3 wraps) from around the shaft with a little hand saw. I think what happened was that it broke but immediately wound around it itself and stopped the engine. I put a new belt on it (keep in mind this is an interference engine) and I was told by just about everyone that it was shot. I carefully replaced the belt, made sure all the TDCs were lined up and reassembled it. Fired it up and it works PERFECTLY. The moral of the story is sometimes you can get lucky even with an interference engine. It has been running fine for over 3 weeks now and nearly 1500 miles.
Great job. Your story gave me a feeling of pride I only get when I see someone else succeed. You beat a mechanic that has probably been working on cars for years, and made up a story because he didn't want to dive in and find out what the problem actually was. That's a big win in any handyman's book.
Did you also buy a lottery ticket after the motor fired up? You were on a winning streak....
Man awesome video. My waterpump went out yesterday 😩 found this and it really helped get me through it. I did have my driver side valve jump while doing this. Really hope I didn't mess up too bad. About to add coolant and fire 🔥 it up. Wish me luck lol 😆
how'd it go
Best play by play video ever awesome great job!!!
I agree with comment before this, best "how to" video ever. This will be the first place I come to when in question.
WOW thanks for sharing. I'm sure I'll be doing this to my recently bought dodge charger. As I've found out it's a salvage car. Hopefully I hit jackpot with this great beauty of a project.
When I take or remove the radiator fan out I put a sheet board in front of the radiator so it doesn't get hit so you don't have no close encounters happening.
Not only does Autozone only loan the Chrysler Harmonic balancer puller, but they also loan out a Harmonic Balancer installer.
But won't the radiator be in the way for the installer?
That installer does not work at least for me idk
Mate...just duct tape a piece of cardboard paper to your condenser. .....save your knuckles and protect your condenser.
You meant to say radiator. Condenser is at the front
@@johnsmith-uh1gs You are correct, as always, John!
To prevent finger getting cut from Radiator. Cut large cardboard out and tape it across it. From there, you can work without worries, and you won't damage the radiator fins either.
Thank you
@@kennethhilderbran1899 - You are welcome!
Thanks these videos have been a huge help it’s amazing how simple these cars are to fix
Sweet video..got my timing belt done today
Very Thorough video. Anyone know the labor cost only(not parts included) thats charged to do this on this 3.5l motor?
$600 labor I was just quoted at 2 shops
This motor looks the same as a 3.5L V6 2002 300M...nice vid
@Distractor_beam before you released the pin on the Tensioner, the cam on your left seems to be a tooth and a half off, did that line up after Tension was applied? @31:02
Best video ever thanks
U really know ur stuff. Thank u
cool vid... as a mechanic never worked one of these .. it appears you can leave on bottom vibr. damper pully if only changing water pump. but great idea go the extra and do the timing belt and tensioner parts. should have pinched closed the pin and pulled it half way... but you didnt lose a inch of skin, so all good . Its getting so much easier, except those 2-3 "special" sockets, which you point out. pretty sure i will do my buddys now..its "pissing" out the front center lower. 1/2022 yur still helping..
GOOD YOU SHOWED REINSTALLING THE DAMPENER, SOME DON'T.
Great video and I'd like to know what you shot it with. It's line of sight, but it's not moving....so...? It looks nice! On the critical side... no need to remove air-box, power steering pump, or disconnect battery, Also that Torx is a T30, not T40. No need for the washers on the crank bolt, the bolt by itself will be just fine. Coolant on the crank pulley is not an issue, just rinse it off with hot water. When you're torquing the water pump bolts, use a "spiral" pattern starting at the center and working outwards and do it in at least two stages of tightness. And finally you can use cheapy spring clamps to secure the belt to the pulleys to prevent movement when setting up timing. Thanks for the good work!
Great info. I used a GoPro on a flexible tripod wrapped around something at the top of the radiator that I don't exactly remember. Thank you.
@@Distractor_Beam Well it's very well done both both with video quality and narration. Thanks again.
Thank you. That was a very helpful video
Is the level of this job suitable for someone who never done any mechanic work beforehand, given that the video is applied slowly and step by step? All relative responses are appreciated. Thanks.
what is the green sensor next to the harmonic balancer called?
oil pressure sensor.
thanks man helped me not get fired today
Excellent job my friend !!
brilliant video bud you have a lot of patience.
Awesome job great video.
Put the belt on the 2 cam pulley's first, then around the crank pulley, the last is to work it around the tensioner pulley, then check your timing marks, this is how I did it.
How did it go? Any issues?
Definitely like the video was clearly detailed for the diy ppl. The last part when putting the harmonic balance back on, what sockets did you use to push it back in?
I used a 19mm x 1/2 inch drive.
Not bad it all. My cousin had his fix now the timing is off in the knock sensor is on.
Excellent in depth presentation
Thank you for doing this video very very clearly I appreciate it
Bad ass dude! I'm seriously considering doing this. However, I wI'll definitely be pulling EVERYTHING off the front of technology car radiator and all
Sounds like a plan. That will make it easier.
It’s a good video of explaining only thing that confuses me is the end when he makes sure the timing is all lined up he takes the bolt off and it takes the 2 top notches off of where they line up. So how does that fix that? Or do they just have to be centered basically and the bottom one is the one that make sure it’s centered as long as it’s notch is lined up?
How much space should be between the rear of the crank pully and the cover when you push the pulley back on, I used your method and I'm unsure if it's completely back in place.
What happened the right cam was off by a couple of teeth?
Bless you sir... you saved my life
hello IM BACK hahaha about to use this video all over again
gravy job!
I just want to say thank you very much. I watched your video 10 times. Couple times on the shitter. Jk. Lol. I just did my 2006 and BAMM. It’s alive. Lol.
Awesome! Congratulations, and thanks for the feedback.
James King what was wrong with it before? Overheating?
lol same here 100th time seeing it just order mine replacement kit be here in a week lol ,my problem was heatin up magnum 05 empty reservoir till one day i noticed water was coming out behind balancer
Thanks for the help ahead of time this is a great video
NOTE!! IF YOUR BELT SNAPS, YOU ARE SCREWED!! They are Interference Motors
Should you replace the crank bolt? I know on Toyota's your supposed to. Torque to yield bolt. Also get you a set of clamps to hold the belt on the cams while installing it. Like a big clothes pin. And in this instance, its easier to put the belt on the cams first then go down on the crank sprocket. That way your not fighting with keeping it in correct timing with two cams, your just fighting with the crank. But overall nice job. Also i always use a little rvt on my water pump even if there is a gasket. Thats after i clean up the mating surface of the motor.
Awesome Job 👍
Looking forward to working on my motor.. That’s a Great informative video
I had a belt snap. Scoped inside and valves look straight, I don’t see a piston slap from valves. Got my timing marks in line. Still no start! Need assist
Why did you get belt to tdc then take the bolt off to where it wasn’t at tdc anymore right before putting the timing covers back on?
Can you make more videos like folder operator. Like the part there you are running it. More of that and can you do it for units and reels
Great Video! Thanks!
perfect video..
Great video brother
7/16".-14 bolt at a 3.5 inch length will get that pulley started for you.
And is your torque wrench. Recalibrated.
Wow😎✌👍💪
Excelente video!! ¿Cuanto lleva de torque los tornillos de la bomba de agua? Gracias!!
105 inch pounds
Just me. But I would remove the radiator as well. That way NO Oops. Loved your video . Very informative.
Very nice video bro. Keep it up!
What's the name of this engine you're working on, like the engine code?
Hello, how are all the parts from the AC/DELCO kit holding up after 5 years? Thx
Is this pretty much the same for a 2010